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That vast expanse of water known as the Mar del Zur, or the
This wide ocean received the title of the "Pacific" from the moderate and delightful weather experienced by the first, Spanish navigators who sailed on its bosom along the coast of Peru and within the tropics, where, at most times, it is found to be comparatively smooth; but without the tropics, in the high latitudes towards either pole, the fury of the winter storms and the roughness of the sea are quite equal to those of other oceans with less attractive names.
The equator separates this great tract of water Polynesia to
those islands only which are inhabited by a light-coloured race of people,
allied to the Malaysian, and all speaking dialects of the same tongue. Under
this division they include New Zealand, the Melanesia; whilst the Micronesia; including also under
this appellation the Radack and Ralick chains, the Gilbert and Marshall Isles,
and several other small groups of but little importance.
The extent of ocean embraced within the wide limits throughout which the countless multitudes of the Pacific islands are scattered is equivalent to little less than half the circumference of the globe; but the proportion of land to water in this vast area is very small; over by far the larger portion of it an unbroken expanse of waters meets the voyagers' gaze; whilst, for the most part (if we except Papua and New Zealand), the island-clusters that rise above the waves are mere specks in comparison with the immensity of the ocean that surrounds them.
Long before his death, that great navigator, Columbus, was aware of the existence
of the
About the close of the sixteenth century the
A little later, the Dutch doubled
It was England, however, during the reign of George III., which mainly achieved
the exploration of this beautiful and interesting portion of the globe. A series
of expeditions were fitted out by the
After carefully exploring a vast number of islands, and making detailed
observations upon their inhabitants and general character, Captain Cook
discovered a lofty and fertile cluster of large islands, lying in the north
Pacific, just within the tropics, which he named the
After Cook's labours were over, all the leading outlines of the Polynesian region had been pretty tolerably explored; yet ample room existed for the more careful researches of future navigators, many of whom, French, American, and Russian, as well as English, have since added greatly to our knowledge of the" islands of the Pacific."
Since these grand discoveries took place, a remarkable change has been effected
in the social condition of many of the islands (especially those inhabited by
the light-coloured race), through the combined influences of Christianity and
civilization, consequent upon European intercourse with them. The missionaries,
of various sects, have done much
Colonization, also,—which, within the last half-century, has started into existence the great Australian colonies, now teeming with wealth, and possessing a vigorous and rapidly increasing European population—has spread itself further on into the Pacific, and the fair valleys of New Zealand (despite the unfortunate conflicts that have taken place with the original inhabitants of the soil) are at the present moment scattered over with Anglo-Saxon homesteads, and its glorioous forests are falling before the settler's axe. France, likewise, has lately established a military settlement in New Caledonia, and her tricoloured flag now floats over that considerable possession; whilst the lovely island of Tahiti, with its dependencies, as well as the Marquesas, are also under the dominion of the French empire.
In the North Pacific, the
In the following chapters of this book it will be our province to enter into more
detailed descriptions of the various groups of the
The countless pelagic islands that lie scattered, separately
or in clusters, over the bosom of the
"
"pandanus, and a few stunted
bushes of hibiscus and other dwarf shrubs.
The entire basin of the Pacific is known to be one vast theatre of volcanic action; and every island yet examined in Polynesia consists either of volcanic rocks or coral limestone, and in many instances of basalt and lava, having a girdle or fringe of coral reefs. It has been conjectured that the" atolls," from their generally circular shape, their central lagoons, and the shelving conical form of the submarine mountains, are nothing more than the crests of extinct volcanoes rising to the ocean's surface, and having the rims and bottoms of their craters overgrown with coral.
It is generally supposed that every "atoll" marks the site, and traces the outline of Sunken land, on which the corals have found a base to build; and, as no corals have been found living and working at a greater depth than from twenty to thirty fathoms, the old notion that coral-polyps were able to build up their steep walls from great depths in the sea is now no longer regarded as tenable.
Amongst the many remarkable structures reared by madrepores on the summits of
marine mountains in the Pacific and pocillopora verrucosa, and
is of a beautiful pale lakered. As soon as an islet is formed, and the waves are
prevented from breaking entirely over the reef, the channels and hollows in it
become filled up with cemented fragments, and its surface is converted into a
hard, smooth floor, like an artificial one of freestone. This flat surface
varies in width from 100 to 300 yards, and is strewed with a few large fragments
of coral torn up during gales; it is uncovered only during low water. Nothing
can be more singular than the appearance at low tide of this "flat" of naked
stone, especially where it is externally bounded by the smooth convex mound of
nulliporæ, appearing like a breakwater built to resist the
waves, which are constantly throwing
Barrier reefs are found either running parallel to the coasts of large masses of
land, such as that of
Mr. Jukes, in his narrative of the voyage of H.M.S. "Fly," says, speaking of these lagoon-enclosing reefs, "The water was perfectly clear, and of great and almost unfathomable depth right up to the outer slope or submarine wall of the reef. The long ocean swell being suddenly impeded by this barrier, lifted itself in one great continuous ridge of deep blue water, which, curling over, fell on the edge of the reef in an unbroken cataract of dazzling white foam. Each line of breakers was often one or two miles in length, with not a perceptible gap in its continuity."
The corals, which are the chief agents in reef-making, or, at all events, in
continually building up and keeping them together, are many of them of gigantic
size. There are massive kinds at work on the outer edges of the reefs that could
not exist within the lagoons, where the small and delicately-branching species
flourish. It is difficult to get a sight of them alive and working, because of
the heavy seas that break outside; but large blocks are sometimes rolled up on
the reefs, twelve or fifteen feet in diameter; and crags of porites, twenty feet long by ten feet high, all forming one connected mass
of polyp-cells, have been observed detached from their place of growth, and
hurled by the waves on to the shore.
For the non-destruction of these barrier reefs by the unceasing action of the surf breakers, Mr. Darwin thus accounts. He says, "The ocean throwing its breakers on these outer shores appears an invincible enemy, yet we see it resisted and even conquered by means which at first seem most weak and inefficient. No periods of repose are granted, and the long swell caused by the steady action of the trade-wind never ceases. The breakers exceed in violence those of our temperate regions, and it is impossible to behold them without feeling a conviction that rocks of granite or quartz would ultimately yield and be demolished by such irresistible forces. Yet these low, insignificant coral islands stand, and are victorious, for here another power, as antagonist to the former, takes part in the contest. The organic forces separate the atoms of carbonate of lime, one by one, from the foaming breakers, and unite them into a symmetrical structure. Myriads of architects are at work night and day, month after month, and year after year, and we see their soft gelatinous bodies, through the agency of the vital laws, conquering the great mechanical power of the waves of an ocean, which neither the art of man, nor the inanimate works of nature could successfully resist."
The delicate and beautifully-coloured corals which branch out into long fronds
and clustering boughs as it were, are inhabitants of the inner edges of the
reefs within the calm lagoon. Mrs. Farmer tells us, "It is a pleasant thing to
float in a canoe over the shallow parts of these very clear waters on a fine
day. Keeping your oars still, you may watch the
Mr. Jukes thus draws us a graphic picture of a sheltered nook in one of these
lagoons—a natural aquarium on a grand and inimitable scale. He says, "Round
masses of mœandrina (brain coral) and astræa
were contrasted with delicate leaf-like and cupshaped expansions of explanaria, and with an infinite variety of branching madreporæ and seriatoporæ; some with mere
finger-shaped projections, others with large branching stems, and others again
exhibiting an elegant assemblage of interlacing twigs, of the most exquisite
workmanship. Their colours were unrivalled, vivid greens, contrasting with more
sober browns and yellows, mingled with rich shades of purple, from pale pink to
deep blue. Bright red, yellow, and peach-coloured nulliporæ
clothed those masses that were dead, mingled with beautiful pearly flakes of eschara and retipora; the latter looking
like lace-work in ivory. In among the branches of the corals, like birds among
trees, floated many beautiful fish, radiant with metallic greens and crimsons,
or fantastically banded with black and yellow stripes. Patches of clear white
sand were seen here and there for the floor, with dark hollows and recesses
beneath overhanging masses and ledges."
It is somewhat as follows that the inner sides of
The largest and most important burning mountains at present
in a state of activity in the
The great volcano of Kirauea, or "Kiraueanui," as it is called by the Sandwich
Islanders, is situated about twenty-five miles inland from the south-east coast
of Hawaii, and nearly equidistant between the two great mountains called Moana
Kea and
This crater was first visited and described by the Rev. W. Ellis, who made the
ascent in 1823. In his graphic and interesting narrative, he thus describes the
scene presented to his view, on reaching the edge of the great crater, after a
toilsome ascent through regions of lava and volcanic sand:—"About two p.m. the crater of Kirauea suddenly burst upon our view. We
expected to have seen a mountain with a broad base, and rough indented sides,
composed of loose slags or hardened streams of lava, and whose summit would have
presented a rugged wall of scoria, forming the rim of a mighty
"The grey and calcined sides of the huge crater before us; the fissures which intersected the surface of the plain on which we were standing; the long banks of yellow sulphur on the opposite side of the abyss; the vigorous action of the numerous small craters on its borders; the dense columns of vapour and smoke that rose at the north and south ends of the plain; together with the ridge of steep rocks by which it was surrounded, rising probably in some places 300 or 400 feet in perpendicular height, presented an immense volcanic panorama, the effect of which was greatly augmented by the constant roaring of the vast furnaces below."
At night, the grandeur of the scene reached its climax. "The dark clouds and heavy fog that after sunset had settled over the volcano, gradually cleared away, and the fires of Kirauea, darting their fierce light athwart the midnight gloom, unfolded a sight terrible and sublime beyond all we had seen.
"The agitated mass of liquid lava, like a flood of melted metal, raged with
tumultuous whirl. The lively flame that danced over its undulating surface,
The heathen inhabitants of Polynesia always regard with superstitious dread these
regions of fire, which they consider to be the primeval abodes of their volcanic
deities. Kirauea was supposed by the A game somewhat resembling drafts, also played by the New Zealanders.Konane.
The volcano of Tongariro, which is situated amongst the high snow-oovered mountains of the interior of the north island of New Zealand, presents the appearance of a huge truncated cone, from which volumes of steam and vapour are issuing from time to time.
This mountain is held in traditional reverence by the natives, and is much dreaded by them, being, as they say, the "backbone of their Tupuna," or great ancestor, and having a white head, like their principal chieftain. So sacred, indeed, is the "tapu," or law amongst them, forbidding any stranger to approach it, that its ascent has been a matter of great difficulty to Europeans. Mr. Bidwill, however, succeeded in getting to the top of the crater by stealth, during the absence of the chief of Taupo, and from his account we will take an extract.
The Tongariro is computed to be about 6200 feet above the sea, whilst not far from it rises the huge snow-clad mountain of Ruapahu, which attains an altitude of about 9000 feet.
Mr. Bidwill says: "After toiling upwards all day through a region of stunted
vegetation and rugged water-courses, we came to a spot where the base of the
cone could be seen. The natives refused to go any farther, and covered their
faces with their mats, as they said it was 'tapu' to look at
the sacred mountain, or at least the peak. Next morning I was astonished to see
the mountains around covered with snow, except the cone, which was visible from
its base to its apex, and appeared quite close. I set off, immediately after
breakfast, with only two natives, as all the others were afraid to go any nearer
to the much-dreaded place; nor could I persuade the two who did set off with me
to go within a mile of the base of the cone. They, however, made a fire of such
small bushes as they could collect, and waited for me till I got back. As there
"I could see no fire, nor do I believe that there was any, or that the eruption
was anything more than hot water and steam, although, from the great density of
the latter, it looked like very black smoke. As I progressed towards the cone, I
arrived at a stream of lava, which looked as though it had been ejected but
yesterday. It was black, very hard and compact, and there was not the slightest
appearance of even a lichen on it. I had no idea of a 'sea of rocks' until I
crossed this lava-bed; the edges of the stony billows were so sharp that it was
with difficulty I passed among them without cutting my clothes to shreds. I at
last arrived at the cone: it was, I suppose, of the ordinary steepness of such
heaps of volcanic cinders, but much higher. I estimate it at 1500 feet from the
hollow from which it appears to have sprung. It looks as if a vast amphitheatre
had been hollowed out of the surrounding mountains in order to place it in. The
sides of
"The rocks on the top were covered with a whitish deposit, and there was abundance of sulphur in all directions. I did not stay at the top so long as I could have wished, because I heard a strange noise coming out of the crater, which I thought betokened another eruption; and as I had no desire to be either boiled or steamed to death, I made the best of my way down. I had not quite got down to the lava plain when I heard the noise of another eruption. I was half frozen before I reached the ravine, and thoroughly drenched by the mist, so that I was very glad when I found the place where I had left the natives and the fire, which I reached about seven in the evening."
From Tongariro, in a north-east direction to the l. per ton. It is very pure, containing ninety per cent.
The island of Tofua, in the Hapai group of the
A few miles distant from Tofua, which is about three quarters of a mile in elevation, is a lofty conical island, just one mile high, with a volcano in action, from which the smoke pours forth in dense black clouds.
The appearance of the remains of the extraordinary island of Funualai, to the
north of the Vavau group of the
The lonely island of Niua Foou, lying by itself nearly midway between the
Volcanic disturbances appear to be continually occurring amongst the islands of
the Tonga or Friendly group; and, owing to some remarkable submarine agency, the
missionary brig, '
In the New Hebrides are the active volcanoes of Tauna and Ambrym. Around the slopes of the former are numerous fumeroles or spiraculæ, which, whenever an explosion takes place, emit large quan tities of sulphurous vapours. These fumeroles extend in some places close down to the sea; and at high water, many of the hot springs, so numerous thereabouts, are covered by the tide.
Forster, who observed these islands on Cook's second voyage, says of them: "When
we were in the midst of the New Hebrides we saw a fine large island, which had
all the appearance of the greatest fertility and highest cultivation. We
remarked on its summit, in two places, a smoke rising, of a much greyer hue than
that from an ordinary fire. Coming afterwards to Mallicollo, we learned from the
natives that this isle was called Ambrym, and that there was a fire coming out
of the hills. We observed on the south-east side of the island (which is gently
sloping, and has a very beautiful appearance) white columns of smoke, rolling
with great velocity and strength out of the summit of one of the inland hills,
which, however, was not the highest hill on
"The Island of Tanna was seen by us afterwards. The night preceding our arrival we observed a very great fire on this isle, every now and then blazing up with violence. In the morning we saw plainly a volcano at the end of a low range of hills, not elevated more than 120 or 150 yards above the sea; its aspect was that of a truncated cone, quite barren, of a reddish grey, and having the appearance of being formed by ashes, pumice, and lava. Every four or five minutes we perceived a straight column of smoke of a reddish cast rising with great velocity. After the smoke, or rather column of ignited ashes, had risen to a considerable height, the resistance of the air and its own gravitation brought it down, when it branched out into separate masses, assuming the form of a large cauliflower. The clouds of smoke and ashes emitted from the volcano had all the various hues of yellow, orange, red, and dark purple, dying away into brownish grey." Some of the ignited stones thrown up by the crater of Tanna must be of an immense size, as they were distinctly visible, according to Forster, from the deck of the vessel when eight miles off.
The interior of the north island of New Zealand, having the great crater of
Tongariro as its centre of volcanic action, is remarkable also for the number of
boiling ponds and thermal springs which are scattered about in the neighbourhood
of the Taupo and Roturua lakes. Perhaps the most extensive and interesting of
these are the hot springs of
Mr. Angas visited the boiling springs which formerly issued from the side of a
steep mountain above the native village of
Of the boiling ponds, two miles from
The natives in the vicinity of these hot springs construct reservoirs, into which they conduct the water gradually, its temperature being kept up or decreased at pleasure by stopping out the boiling stream with mud and stones. By this means they are enabled to enjoy the luxury of a warm bath, of which numbers, especially of the young people, are continually availing themselves; and it is not unusual to see twenty or thirty persons squatting together in the hot water, with only their heads above the surface.
Lying, as most of the Polynesian islands do, within the sunny
regions of the tropics, and being nourished with the constant moisture of the
surrounding ocean, as well as possessing generally a rich volcanic soil in their
fertile valleys, their vegetable productions
The visitor to the shores of New Zealand will be struck by the scantiness of
annual and flowering plants, of which very few possess vivid colours to attract
the attention of the florist. On the other hand, he will find a vast number of
species of evergreen forest trees, together with an endless variety of ferns,
some of gigantic size, of which the greater part of the flora consists. The
glaucous character of an Australian landscape, produced by its Eucalypti, Casuarinæ, and Banksiæ, is exchanged in
New Zealand for the glossy green of a dense and mixed forest, or, in the open
country, for the russet-brown of the social fern. In the former general aspect,
together with the tree-ferns, palms, and dragontrees, which abound in New
Zealand, that country resembles one situated between the tropics, and has much
of the same character of vegetation as many of the beautiful islands lying north
of it.
The following description, by Dr. Bennett, of his first impressions of Tahiti,
will convey a general idea of the luxuriant foliage of tropical Polynesia. He
says, "the waving cocoa-palms—the verdant
In the gloomy and dense forests of New Zealand there are in some places groves
composed entirely of the beautiful "nikau" palm, mingling with treeferns from
ten to forty feet in height: these are shaded eternally from the sun by the
lofty canopy of foliage overhead, and nourished by the ceaseless moisture that
drops from every spray, rendering
Amongst the timber trees most important to commerce are the dammara pines,
several species of which occur in New Zealand, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia,
and the Figis. The New Zealand dammara or kauri pine grows
very erect, and is a model of symmetry, producing whorls of branches at regular
intervals up the stem, tapering to the top. It attains the height of ninety feet
and upwards, and a circumference of twenty to twenty-four feet. The timber is
close-grained, durable, and valuable either in plank or for the yards and masts
of vessels, for which purpose it has long been in requisition for the ships of
Her Majesty's navy. This tree, like all the other species of dammara, yields a
white resin, which exudes from the trunk and branches, and burns with an
agreeable smell; it is known as "kauri gum," and is now in great demand as an
article of commerce for the production of a clear and beautiful varnish. The New
Zealanders call this gum "the water of the tree;" and on digging in the ground,
the resin is found in lumps, in
In the Figis there are two other species of dammara pines, affording equally excellent timber. In the whole of the southern district of Vanua Levu and Viti Levu (Great Figi) are extensive forests, in which dammara-trees abound. On the banks of the Navuaa—a fine river in Viti Levu—they are particularly fine and very numerous, and their proximity to deep water renders their removal for purposes of commerce very easy.
The Dammara moorei of New Caledonia grows in the open ground,
and fringes the summits of the hills, imparting to them a singular appearance
from the sea. It is a beautiful tree, attaining a height of fifty feet, with
graceful pendulous branches at the base, which gradually diminish in size
upwards, so as to give the tree the outline of a sharp pyramid.
When Captain Erskine approached La Perouse Island in H.M.S. "Havannah," huge,
heavy trees were conspicuous amongst the dense forests
The Norfolk Island pine is, however, the most noble and imposing in its
appearance of all the coniferous trees of the Pacific. It belongs to the genus
Araucaria, which have the double-dotted vascular tissue of
the fossil pines found in the coalmeasures of Great Britain. In the sheltered
glens of
The Kaikeatea pine (Dacrydium excelsum) is the loftiest of the
many fine timber trees that adorn the New Zealand forests. It attains the height
of 120 to 130 feet, and grows usually in moist localities, where it may be seen
covered by an elegant climbing plant, the Freycinetia Banksii,
or tawara, the sweet mucilaginous bracteæ of the blossoms of which are delicious
eating, and much prized by the natives, their flavour resembling that of a rich
and juicy pear; whilst its long leaves are employed to form baskets for holding
food. This pine produces a reddish gumresin, and bears a small crimson
The New Zealand tanekaha ( Phyllocladus trichomanoides) grows to
an elevation of from sixty to seventy feet: the timber is hard, of good quality,
and so heavy that it sinks in water. From the bark of this tree the natives
extract a permanent black dye, with which they stain their flax garments. The
totara (
The karaka (Corynocarpus lævigata) of New Zealand is a tall
handsome tree, with dark-green shining foliage, and clusters of small white
flowers. The fruit is yellow, about the size of a plum, which, as well as the
seeds, is used as an article of food by the natives. The latter, when prepared
by being steamed and soaked in water for some days, are made into a sort of
black-looking cakes, which have an insipid taste, although the native children
appear to relish them exceedingly. If eaten without being prepared in this
manner, the seeds cause violent and spasmodic pains and paralysis of the limbs.
In the month of December, the New Zealand Metrosideros robusta,
or pohutukaua tree is covered with its clusters of bright red flowers. It is
The tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) is lofty and branching,
with thick, oval, dark-green leaves, and clusters of scented white flowers; the
fruit is reddish-brown and fragrant. This tree, in Tahiti, attains a height of
fifty or sixty feet; and was formerly regarded as sacred by the natives, being
planted in their morais, and the penalty of death exacted for
destroying a branch. The wood is hard, red, and handsomely veined, resembling
Spanish mahogany. The resin which exudes from the trunk is an article of
commerce, and is also used by the Tahitian females as a perfume.
The coral tree is a magnificent object in the Polynesian landscape. It is the Erythrina corallodendron, producing masses of scarlet
blossoms, like coral, whilst its foliage, of a most refreshing green colour,
affords a delightful and cooling shade.
Amongst the valuable timber trees indigenous to the island of Tahiti may also be
mentioned the apape (Rhus apape), the mara (Cephanthus mara), and the faifai (Acacia myriadena),
all of which attain to a height of from forty to seventy feet, and produce woods
of excellent quality for building and other purposes.
The blood-wood tree of Baloghia lucida), is an
elegant tree, about forty feet high, with dark, shining, obtuse, dense foliage.
The trunk is
The Inocarpus edulis, or South-Sea chestnut grows abundantly on
many of the Polynesian islands. The trunk of this tree presents a remarkable
appearance, having projections like buttresses standing out from it on all
sides, and extending from the root to the branches. The leaves are of a dark,
rich green colour, and the flowers in racemes, small, white, and fragrant. The
fruit, which is flat and kidney-shaped, is much esteemed by the islanders, and
when baked, resembles a chestnut in taste.
The splendid Barringtonia speciosa is found in Rotuma, the
The Rev.
There is an elegant protaeaceous tree which attains to a very great height in the
forests of New Zealand, the Knightia excelsa, or riwa-riwa of
the natives. It grows very straight, and is covered in the summer time with
flowers of a beautiful purple hue.
The Aralia crassifolia or fish-bone tree is a curious object in
the New Zealand woods. It runs up with a slender stem to thirty feet, having
tufts of leaves thrown out near the top, which are about a foot in length and an
inch in breadth, of a thick, coriaceous texture, irregularly jagged at the edges
and abrupt at the end. Some of these trees grow erect, others incline towards
the ground, and the stems being slender, tough, and flexible, readily wave to
the passing breeze.
It is on the low coral islands that the cocoa-nut tree displays its fullest
vigour, flourishing on the most barren and unsheltered sea-beach, amongst
fragments of coral rock and sand, and where its roots are washed by every
advancing tide. Unlike the bread-fruit, plantain, and other trees affording
valuable fruit, which require a fertile soil to bring them to perfection, the
cocoa-nut, though it grows well in the inland valleys, and on the banks of the
streams that meander through them, appears to thrive best close to the sea,
amidst a soil of broken coral and sand. It imparts to the landscape all the
richness
A considerable trade in cocoa-nut oil is carried on amongst the islands. It is extracted from the nut by the natives, and sold by them to the captains of vessels who make periodical visits for the purchase of the oil.
Several other species of palms occur in Polynesia, amongst which may be mentioned the fanpalm, the leaves of which serve the purpose of umbrellas, and are also used as fans; a kind of sagopalm, the medullary pith of which is eaten by the natives, whilst its broad leaves are employed for thatching: and the arekapalm of New Zealand, which grows in the forests to a height of thirty or thirty-five feet, the young succulent heart of which is edible, and resembles the cocoa-nut in flavour.
The sandal-wood (Santalum Freycinetianum) formerly grew
abundantly at the ovulum (Ovulum angulosum, Lam.) about an inch and a half
long, looking like polished ivory, with a violet interior. This shell is
obtained only at the
The bread-fruit (Artocarpus incisa) forms the principal article
of diet amongst the islanders of tropical Polynesia. It is to them—
The natives are remarkably fond of it, and it appears to be very wholesome
and nourishing, as a perceptible improvement is often observed in the appearance
of the people a few weeks after the bread-fruit season has commenced. There are
upwards of thirty varieties of this noble tree, all of which have distinct
native appellations. It grows in Tahiti, the
In the Sandwich Islands the bread-fruit is often eaten green. It is cooked by placing it on the fire, when the outer coat becomes charred, and the inner parts only roast like a potato. When the outer rind is removed it has the appearance of "a beautiful light-coloured smoking loaf." This invaluable tree, besides producing three or four regular crops annually, yields a fine resin, which the natives use to render the seams of their canoes water-tight, and a valuable timber, of which the houses, canoes, and furniture of the people of many of the islands are constructed.
Of the plantain and the banana, which are
The "orea," or maiden-plantain, attains the highest perfection, and is truly delicious. The stem is seldom more than twelve feet high; its leaves are magnificent specimens of tropical foliage, being often ten to fifteen feet long, nearly two feet wide, and of the most exquisite green colour. The fruit is about nine inches long, shaped somewhat like a cucumber, but more angular at the sides, and, when ripe, is of a rich yellow colour. From fifty to seventy fruits are often attached to the same stalk. Each plantain produces but one bunch of fruit, and it is then cut down, its place being supplied by the suckers that arise round the root.
The yam and the taro are esculent roots, both of which yield the Polynesians a
large supply of food, especially the latter, and the cultivation of them is
carried on with much care. The yam is the root of the Diascorea
alata, and has somewhat the appearance of an enormous potato. It is
nutritive, and of a pleasant taste, and is prepared for food either by baking or
boiling. The taro is the root of the Arum esculentum, and may
be ranked next to the
The South Sea arrowroot, which forms an article of commerce amongst the more
civilized islands, is prepared from the root of a plant called Tacca pinnatifida, which is indigenous to the soil. The root is first
beaten to a pulp, and, after being subjected to frequent washings, is exposed to
the sun to dry. The natives make a kind of bread of this arrowroot, which is
very agreeable, and is chiefly used at feasts and other seasons of festivity.
In New Zealand the kumera, or sweet potato, is cultivated. The natives bestow
great care upon their kumera plantations, and the roots form an esteemed article
of diet with the chiefs on public occasions. It is the Convolvulus
battata, a plant indigenous to eastward.
Amongst the poisonous trees in Figi, that most dreaded by the natives is the "kau
karo," or itchwood (Onocarpus vitiensis). This tree when fully
developed is about sixty feet high, bearing large oblong leaves, and a very
curious corky fruit, something like a walnut. On a drop of the juice of the "kau
karo" coming in contact with the skin, it Laportea), forty to fifty feet high, which, when
touched, causes a burning sensation so severe that the effect is felt for many
weeks.
The smoke of the burning wood of the poisonous "sinu" (Excæcaria
agallocha) causes intolerable pain. None save those who have
experienced the effects of this smoke can form any adequate idea of the agonies
endured by those Figians who voluntarily submit themselves to the smoke of the
"sinu" for the cure of leprosy. The leper is divested of his clothing, and,
being bound hand and foot, is rubbed over with green leaves, and suspended over
a small fire, on which a few pieces of the "sinu" are laid. The door is then
closed, and the sufferer left in the black and agonizing smoke for some hours,
where after shouting with pain he at length faints away. When smoked enough, he
is removed, the slime scraped from his body, and gashes cut into the skin to
cause the blood to flow freely. In some cases of smoking lepers death is the
result, whilst others end in a speedy and lasting cure from this loathsome
disease.
The Ahurites triloba or candlenut tree grows in abundance on
the declivities of hills and in ravines in the Sandwich and other islands of the
Pacific, the whiteness of its foliage rendering it a conspicuous object. This is
occasioned by a fine white powder on the upper surface of the leaf, which can
The toa, or drooping casuarina (C. equisetifolia), may be seen
in many of the islands, growing in clumps about the villages, or native
burying-places, for which latter its mournful character and sombre shade render
it peculiarly suitable. Formerly the toa was regarded as sacred, and planted in
groves round the "morais" of Tahiti. The ruins of some
The tappa cloth, so generally used as an article of clothing in the central
Pacific, is manufactured from the inner bark of the paper-mulberry tree (Broussonetia papyrifera.) This bark is taken off the trunk in
a single piece by a longitudinal incision from one end of the trunk to the
other; it is scraped, spread out, rolled, and flattened, and beaten with little
wooden mallets, which are four-sided; one side being smooth, the second coarsely
grooved, the third more finely ridged, and the fourth checked in squares or
diamonds. Thus the pattern may be varied, and cloth produced either smooth,
striped like dimity, finely corded, or with a small check like diaper. The
thickness of the tappa also varies, some being as stout as coarse brown paper or
even morocco leather, whilst other kinds are produced as delicate and
transparent as the finest gauze. Their sleeping-cloths are made of ten sheets of
the stouter sort of tappa fastened together, and are as large as a good-sized
blanket. Twenty yards of fine cloth are required by a Tahitian woman to make one
dress, which is worn from the waist downwards.
The leaves of the pandanus, or screwpine, are used for
manufacturing a very large kind of floor mats, sometimes twenty yards square,
which are plaited almost as fine as Leghorn straw. Sometimes these are dyed of
various colours, and bordered by a rich fringe.
The Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, is the most useful
plant that country affords. To the natives it is invaluable, serving them
instead of hemp and flax, and excelling in strength and durability all other
kinds of fibrous material. There are two varieties of this plant, one having its
long flag-like leaves striped with yellow, as in the ribbon-grass. It occurs
abundantly in all parts of New Zealand, but flourishes best in moist localities,
and near the banks of rivers. From its cluster of long leaves, which grow to a
height of five or six feet, there rises a tall flower-stalk bearing numerous
rows of yellowish or dark-red blossoms. Of the leaves of the
The Polynesian islands abound in beautiful ferns. Amongst the most remarkable of
these are the lofty tree-ferns of New Zealand, the Cyathea
dealbata, which attains a height of forty feet, the Cyathea
medullaris, the Dicksonia squamosa, and the Mahrattia elegans. Dr. Bennett says, "I accompanied a native
to a place where I could see the tree-ferns growing. After passing through a
dense forest, annoyed by the 'tataramoa,' or New Zealand bramble, and stumbling
over the lianas, or supple-jacks, which trailed upon the ground, we descended a
hill covered with exuberant vegetation, and shaded by enormous trees; we then
came to a marshy spot, luxuriant in verdure, where the magnificent tree-ferns
rose in groups before us. Solitude reigned, disturbed only by the low murmurings
of a silvery rivulet, that meandered through the mossy dell below." These ferns
were probably the Mahrattia elegans and Dicksonia
squamosa. "The one," says Dr. Bennett, "is remarkable from the large
size of the spiral stipes and the
The sugarcane, and nearly all the edible fruits and vegetables of other warm climates, are found to thrive wonderfully throughout tropical Polynesia, and have, in some of the islands, been extensively cultivated. The orange, lemon, shaddock, lime, citron, tamarind, pomegranate, custard-apple, guava, mango, fig, and mulberry, besides the coffee-tree, cotton, tobacco, and indigo plants, all grow luxuriantly, though few of them are indigenous to the soil. In the Sandwich Islands the sugarcane grows spontaneously, and perhaps comes to greater perfection there than in any other part of the globe. The natives on their journeys carry pieces of the cane with them, which furnish a sweet and nourishing juice, appeasing at once both hunger and thirst. They have latterly been taught to extract the juice, and by boiling it they prepare a very excellent sugar.
By a diversity of combinations of their various indigenous fruits and vegetables
the Dracæna terminalis) a
spirituous and highly intoxicating liquor, which they call "kava" or "ava." This
inebriating fluid they use in great quantities, especially on festive occasions.
Whole districts frequently unite in erecting what might be called a public
still. A rude fragment of rock, excavated below to contain a fire, and
surmounted by the end of a large hollow tree in which the ma cerated roots of
the ti are placed, compose the chief materials; whilst a bamboo-cane, placed in
a trough of cold water, condenses the distilled vapour, which flows into a
calabash set below to receive it.
The roots and stems of a kind of pepper (Piper methysticum) are
also extensively distilled in many of the islands for the purpose of producing a
kind of "kava." This latter spirit is not, however, equal to that made from the
"ti," and has so nauseous a flavour that the natives usually swallow a draught
of water after the intoxicating dose to remove its unpleasant taste and burning
effects. The ceremony of "kava-drinking," formerly so popular amongst the
principal groups of the Pacific, has latterly almost fallen into disuse, and,
through the efforts of the missionaries, has been quite abolished in many of the
islands. On such occasions, the king or chief would sit in state, surrounded by
his principal men, or by visitors of distinction, when a portion of the kava
root was handed round to each person present,
The inhabitants of the Louisiade, Areca
catechu, which is used by them instead of the pepperbetel leaf,
extensively employed throughout the
Amongst the botanical productions of Nepenthes distillatoria) deserves mention. It
grows abundantly amongst the tall grasses on the skirts of the jungle, and the
pitchers contain a small quantity of limpid sweetish fluid, with small insects
floating on its surface.
In conclusion, we will glance hastily at a few of the more prominent of the
flowering shrubs and smaller plants of Polynesia. In the New Zealand forests the
blossoms of the clematis and the passion-flower enliven the sombre foliage of
the larger trees, and the sweet-scented hoya fills the air
with its fragrance. Of this shrub, in the woods near Waipa, Mr. Angas remarks:
"On entering the forests again, a delicious fragrance, like that of hyacinth and
jessamine mingled, filled the humid atmosphere with its perfume. It arose from
the petals of a straggling, climbing sort of shrub, with bright-green glossy
leaves, resembling those of the nutmeg tree, and a profusion of rich blossoms,
looking as though they were formed of wax, which hung in clusters of
trumpet-shaped bells, and were of every shade of colour, from pinkish white to
the deepest crimson. The natives call this plant 'horopito.'" The fuchsia is
indigenous in New Zealand, the woods in many places being adorned with an
undergrowth of this elegant shrub. In its wild state it bears two distinct sets
of flowers—one green and purple, the other purple and red; whilst the pollen on
the anthers of the green petals is of the most vivid cobalt-blue colour. Along
the banks of the rivers, the "kowai," or "native laburnum," displays its Hoya viridiflora with its pale
green flowers; whilst the mountain glens of Figi teem with beautiful plants, the
odours of whose blossoms defy description.
The native females of the Sida, which is cultivated to produce double blossoms. Those plants
which afford orange or yellow colours are preferred. The large and handsome
white Mexican poppy is also indigenous in the
Many of the mosses and livermosses of New Zealand are very interesting: amongst
the lichens are the beautiful Cenomyce retispora, resembling
bunches of white cellular coral; and a cupmoss, the edges of which are tipped
with brilliant scarlet. Some of the large fungi growing from
the trunks of the trees, near the roots, are so broad and strong as to form
capital seats; and at night luminous toadstools sparkle like stars in every
direction amongst the damp forests. There is also in New Zealand a very curious
fungus which is parasitical on a caterpillar. It is found at the roots of the
"rata" trees, and is called Sphœria Bobertsii, being the
"hotete" of the natives.
Mammals.—Although the pig, the dog, the
goat, and, amongst some of the more civilized islands, the horse, the ox, the
ass, the sheep, and the domestic cat have been introduced at various times Sus papuensis. a small species of wild hog, of a brown colour,
which lives in the woods. Amongst the lesser islands along the coast they may
frequently be seen swimming from one bay to another, in single file, their
snouts resting on each other's hindquarters. At such times they are easily
captured by the natives in their canoes.
Although, as yet, we know but little of the natural history of Dendrolagus, which inhabits trees,
and but rarely approaches the ground; whilst the third is a small terrestrial
kangaroo, of the genus Dorcopsis. If we except several species
of Phalangister or opossum, and a few of the allied genus Cuscus, which are inhabitants of the dense forests, no other
land animals than the above, but bats and rats, have hitherto been observed on
the coast of Papua.
In the interior of New Zealand there exists a small species of wild dog, but this
is probably descended from a peculiar breed introduced by the Spaniards, or even
by the New Zealanders themselves, when they first peopled the country. Of this
animal Dr. Dieffenbach says, "The dog of the natives is not the Australian
dingo, but a much smaller variety, resembling the jackal, and of a dirty
yellowish colour. It is now rarely met with. A native dog of New Zealand is not
a sufficiently powerful creature to do harm to domestic animals, as is the
Of the dogs at
The common cat is at present found in a wild state in the forests of New Zealand, and is another cause of the extermination of indigenous birds. It is remarkable that these wild cats soon resume the streaky grey colour of their original stock—the wild cat of northern Europe.
The little Indian rat occurs abundantly over all the
In New Zealand there exists a frugivorous native rat, called "kiore maori" by the
aborigines, which they distinguish from the European species, which is
introduced, and called "kiore pakeha," or the stranger rat. In former times they
used the "kiore maori" for food in large numbers, but latterly it
In the mangrove forests of Figi there roost immense numbers of a very large
species of bat (Notopteris Macdonaldii). These animals measure
nearly a yard across, between the extreme points of their wings. At the
Amongst the marine animals that inhabit the coasts of New Zealand and the
Auckland and
The wide waters of the Pacific are the head-quarters of the gigantic sperm-whale,
which is found ranging from New Zealand to Kamtschatka. It is equally at home in
the blue tropical seas beneath the equator, as it is in the stormy regions
nearer the poles. Many other species of whales, as well as of
Birds.—Foremost amongst the bird fauna of Polynesia must be
noticed that remarkable group of gigantic wingless birds, allied to the
cassowary, and now probably extinct, of which the islands of New Zealand were
once the head-quarters. It is now a little more than five-and-twenty years ago
since the first bones of the "moa," as the natives styled these huge birds
generally, were discovered. Since that period the semifossilized, and, in some
instances, comparatively recent remains of no less than ten species of the "moa"
have been found; all of which have been carefully examined and described by
Professor Owen, who resolves them into two genera, Dinornis
and Palapteryx. In the former genus the professor includes
eight species, and in the latter two. In their general aspect, characters, and
habits, it is supposed that these birds resembled much more nearly the cassowary
tribe, than they did the ostrich or the emeu. To give some idea of the stature
of these birds, as ascertained from their skeletons, it may be mentioned that
the largest species of "moa," the Dinornis giganteus, stood,
when erect, ten feet six inches in height, whilst the D.
dromæoides and D. elephantopus, both exceeded five feet.
Of the smaller species, the D. didiformis stood four feet
high; whilst the Palapteryx struthioides attained the altitude
of near seven feet.
Closely allied in structure to these great birds, remains of a very ancient
fauna, now all but disappeared, there still exists in New Zealand a smaller but
very Apteryx, of which three species have been
described. These curious birds are about the size of a domestic fowl, with brown
or grey plumage, according to the species, remarkably powerful legs and feet,
and long slender beaks, which they introduce into the ground in search of grubs
and worms. Like many of the New Zealand birds the apteryx is
nocturnal in its habits, dwelling beneath extensive beds of fern, where it
conceals itself during the day. The largest species, the "fireman" of the
whalers, is from the apteryx forms its nest in a burrow in the earth, and
lays an egg of enormous size, in proportion to that of the bird itself.
From the fact that some of the bones of the "moa" have been discovered still
containing the oily matter, and that even bunches of its feathers were not long
since in the possession of some of the old chiefs as ornaments, coupled with the
detailed accounts the natives themselves give us of these birds, it appears
evident that but a comparatively short period has elapsed since the "moas"
ceased to exist; and, indeed, it is not quite certain whether solitary
individuals of one or more of the smaller species of Dinornis
may not yet be discovered in a living state amongst the wild fastnesses of the
great snowy chain of mountains in the Dinornis and its allies all over New
Zealand, at the period when the Polynesian inhabitants first arrived; and that
for a long time they were killed by them for food, until at last such bulky, and
probably stupid birds, easily falling a prey to the Maories, they were
eventually exterminated. According to the traditions of the New Zealanders, the
largest species of "moa" was of a red colour. Fragments of enormous eggs have
from time to time been found in various parts of New Zealand; and, very
recently, an entire egg, supposed to belong to the Dinornis
ingens, of Owen, has been discovered at the
That one, if not more, species of cassowary are dwellers in Casuarius
Bennetti, or "mooruk" of the natives) has recently been made known. It is
the largest bird now inhabiting any part of Polynesia, as far as our present
knowledge extends. Not quite so tall as the cassowary of the East Indian
Archipelago, it is nevertheless more robust, having very powerful legs and feet.
It stands about four feet in height. The plumage is composed of coarse hair-like
feathers, nearly black, whilst the naked skin on the neck is of a smalt-blue
colour. The head is adorned with a horny helmet of peculiar shape. The eggs are
five and a half inches long, corrugated, and of a pale-green colour. Through the
exertions of Dr. Bennett, of Sydney, the Zoological Society of London already
possesses full-grown living specimens of the "mooruk." Mr. Gould tells us, that
"Professor Owen considers this new bird and the cassowary (C.
galeatus) to be the most nearly allied living types of his genus Palapteryx; and, if this opinion be correct, we may infer that
the habits and economy, as well as the kind of plumage, and the character of
country inhabited by the extinct birds, were very similar. I have always
considered the cassowary to belong to a totally distinct group to the ostriches,
which are adapted for roaming over vast plains and open country during the day
time, and to feed upon berries, apteryx are partially or wholly nocturnal,
living reclusely in the gullies and humid parts of dense forests, feeding upon
the roots of ferns and other plants peculiar to such situations. The hair-like
character of their feathers bespeaks these habits and mode of life, as much as
the plumes of the ostriches do their adaptation for open plains and savannahs."
Amongst the other extraordinary birds that still exist in New Zealand,
constituting the remnants of a nearly extinct fauna, we may mention the Notornis Mantelli, of Owen, a single living example of which
was taken a few years ago by some sealers in notornis, owing to the feeble nature of its wings, is
incapable of flight, but runs with great swiftness amongst the fern. It is a
heavy, stout-looking bird, about the size of a goose, having much the aspect of
a gigantic water-hen. Both its beak and feet are large and strong, and of a
bright red colour: the general plumage is a glossy bronze green, with the head
and belly purplish black, and the tail coverts snow white.
Another of the more important of the terrestrial birds of New Zealand which may
also be mentioned, Ocydromus Australis, or "weka-weka" of the natives, a large species of
rail, or wood-hen, with short wings, which dwells amongst the fern and
underwood. Specimens of this interesting bird may be now seen alive in the
gardens of the wingless bird, which the natives call "moho," still existing
in Hawaii, one of the
Amongst the strange ornithological forms that occur in New Zealand is a very
remarkable bird of the owl tribe, called the "wekau" by the natives. It is
rather larger than the ordinary screech-owl, spotted with chestnut and black,
and has long legs, and small green-coloured feet. The head is very small, and
the beak like that of a hawk, thus imparting somewhat of an accipitrine
character to this anomalous owl. It is found in the Sceloglaux albifacies. Owls abound at the Navigator's
Islands, and occur also in the Podargus (a genus of goat-suckers, of which Australia is the
head-quarters) is found in papuensis of Quoy and Gaimard. Another beautiful crested podargus is also to be met with in
Prominent amongst the numerous members of the parrot tribe that enliven the New
Guinea forests may be mentioned the large salmon and sulphurcrested white
cockatoos, and the great black palm cockatoo (Microglossus
aterrimus), a noble bird with a long crest of sharp feathers, which
frequents the tops of the tallest palm trees, and feeds upon their tender
central shoots.
In the woods of New Zealand several small species of green parroquets occur. The
forests of Strigops
"habroptilus, or "kakapo" of the natives, is a large green nocturnal
parrot, formerly abundant in New Zealand, but now extinct everywhere excepting
on the south-west coast of the
A singular group of parrots, belonging to the genus Nestor,
also evidently the remnants of an ancient fauna, are peculiar to New Zealand and
the adjacent islands. Of four species described and figured nestor, is already extinct within the last few years; and
two of the others are extremely rare. The "kaka," or Nestor
hypopolius, is still comparatively common, and is frequently
domesticated by the natives, who feed these birds on potatoes, and fasten them
by means of flax cords to perches about their houses. The "kaka" is remarkable
for the form of the beak, the upper mandible of which is very long, and produced
in a hooked shape. Its colour also is singular, being composed of browns and
greys, with red about the vent and tail-coverts. In size it exceeds that of the
common grey parrot, so abundant in captivity in this country.
Fruit pigeons, of the genus Carpophaga, and many species of the
lovely pink-headed doves (Ptilinopus), are widely distributed
amongst the islands of the Pacific; indeed every group appears to have one or
more representatives of these genera. Some of the latter from the Admiralty and
Solomon Islands are exceedingly beautiful: nearly all the species have the crown
of the head of a bright rose or crimson colour, the rest of the plumage being
green, purple, white, orange, and yellow. The Carpophaga
oceanica, or nutmeg pigeon, is abundant in the groves of the Louisiade; and
another very handsome species, the C. Novæ Zealandiæ, inhabits
the forests of New Zealand. In the Navigator's Islands the fruit pigeons are
tamed by the natives. Another beautiful fruit pigeon is the
The great crowned pigeon (Lophyrus coronatus) inhabits New
Guinea. It is the largest of the genus, being almost as big as a turkey; and,
like all the pigeon tribe, is delicious eating. It is of a fine bluish slate
colour, having on its head an elegant arched crown of feathers.
We must also mention that peculiar and now almost extinct bird, the Didunculus strigirostris, or tooth-billed pigeon, of the Samoas. In
the contour of the bill, the form and position of the nostrils, and several
other characters, this bird differs from any other living species known; and,
although of small size, it approaches nearest in all its characters to the
extinct dodo, and, like it, combines the character of a rapacious bird with that
of the harmless pigeon. The Didunculus "may therefore be
regarded," says Dr. Bennett, "as the nearest living ally of the now extinct
dodo."
The zoology of
Sonnerat tells us that "the bodies of the dead birds of paradise serve as ornaments for the chiefs, who wear them on their heads by way of 'aigrette.' In preparing the skins they always cut off the legs, and the Dutch, who trade for them, buy them in this condition, and carry them to Persia, Surat, and the Indies, where they sell them excessively dear to the rich inhabitants, who use them to adorn their turbans."
Of the dozen or more species of paradise birds already described by naturalists,
we can only give a brief notice of a few. The most common is the great emerald
bird of paradise (P. apoda); it is about the
size of a thrush, with the head of a golden colour, the throat of the richest
metallic green,
The king bird of paradise (Cicinnurus regia) is the smallest of
the group. Its general plumage is of an intense purple-red, whilst across the
breast runs a broad zone of green and gold, separated from the red above by a
band of yellow; below this the body is white. Beneath the wings are a set of
projecting feathers tipped with golden green and white; and from the middle of
the tail extend two very long naked shafts, each terminating in a flat spiral
web of an emerald green colour.
The six-shafted bird of paradise (P. sex-setacea) is of a
beautiful deep velvety black, except the breast, which is golden green, changing
in the light to every colour of the rainbow: on each side of the head are three
long feathers with naked shafts tipped with oval plumes of a metallic
violet-purple.
The superb bird of paradise (Lophorina superba) is a wonderful
creature. The closely-imbricated feathers on its throat and breast are bronzed
green with corruscations of violet; whilst the crest, the long feathers
proceeding from the side of the neck and looking like a second pair of wings,
together with the brilliant emerald shield of projecting plumes on its breast,
altogether render any description of it
Almost as gorgeously arrayed in velvet and gold as the birds of paradise are the
rifle birds, one species of which, the Ptiloris magnifica,
inhabits the dense forests of
Of the many beautiful kingfishers of Tanysiptera are the most
elegant. Orange, white, and blue, with long snowy shafts extending from the
tail, they at once attract the eye by the combined loveliness of form and
colour.
Several species of the genus Aplonis inhabit
The crow-shrikes (Manucodia) are singular-looking and elegant
birds, with their glossy black plumage shot with metallic greens and purples,
and long ear-like feathers projecting from the crown of the head on either side.
They inhabit the forests of
The Buceros plicatus, or Papuan hornbill; the Ardea heliosyla, or tiger bittern, with its beautiful Megapodius Duperreyi, and the Talegalla
Cuvieri, are also inhabitants of
Although two genera of mound-building birds, viz., Talegalla
and Leipoa, appear to be confined, the first to Australia and
Megapodius, has a wider range, and includes several
species which are scattered over the Pacific islands. In the singular volcanic
island of Niua-Foou, isolated half way between the Figis and the Samoas, a
species of Megapodius presents itself. It was obtained there
by
A very singular bird, the "kagu" (Rhinochetus jubatus), is
found in New Caledonia. It is something like a small heron, with a long crest
and
Three distinct species of blackbird (Merula) are found in the
western Pacific; one in New Caledonia, one in
The "huia" (Neomorpha Gouldii) is an elegant bird from New
Zealand, about the size of a crow, with glossy black plumage, the tail feathers
being tipped with white. The beak of the male is straight and pointed, whilst
that of the female is long and curved; both have orange-coloured wattles at the
base of the mandibles. The tail feathers of the "huia" are held in great
estimation by the New Zealanders, being worn in the hair by the chiefs; and
beautifully carved boxes are made in which to keep them. Another interesting
bird from the Anthochæra concinnata, or parson bird, the "tui" of the
natives. This bird derives its name from two little tufts of white feathers
under the throat, which contrast with its otherwise shiny black plumage; it is a
very lively and amusing bird in captivity, and rivals the famous mocking-bird in
its powers of imitation and song.
Many of the islands in the Pacific can boast of sweet songsters amongst the loveliness of their woods and groves; and the melody of the little warblers that pour out their notes amidst the stillness of a New Zealand forest has delighted many a traveller in that country. When the Spaniards discovered the island of Espiritu Santo in the New Hebrides, more than two hundred and fifty years ago, "they found the banks of the rivers covered with odoriferous flowers and plants, particularly orange flowers and sweet bazil, the perfumes of which were wafted to the ships by the morning and evening breezes; and at the early dawn was heard, from the neighbouring woods, the mixed melody of many different kinds of birds, some in appearance like nightingales, blackbirds, larks, and goldfinches."
In the higher latitudes of the
The frigate-bird, or man-of-war hawk (Tachy-petes Palmerstoni),
is very numerous in the Society
The blue heron may be seen on the shores of the lagoon islands, sitting
motionless for hours on the low coral rocks; and there also, out on the barrier
reefs, amidst the foam of the broken waves, the white reef-bird (Sterna poliocerca) passes its time in search of small fish as they are
dashed upon the rocks.
Reptiles.—In the rivers and salt-water estuaries of the muddy
shores of southern Papua, as also in New Britain and the adjacent islands, there
exists a large and formidable kind of crocodile, the Crocodilus
biporcatus, which is also found in the North Australian rivers. In New
Guinea its skulls have been found in the native houses. Its average length is
from twelve to eighteen feet; and its jaws, armed
Crocodiles are not found as far east as Figi; but about the beginning of this
century a large one made its appearance there, probably having been drifted
thither from the shores of
Captain Cook mentions a gigantic lizard in New Zealand, which the natives call
"tuatera." It is the Hatteria punctata of Gray, and is now
nearly extinct, a small island on the east coast, in the Monitor
Gouldii.
A chameleon and four species of lizard are found in Figi. One of these, the Chloroscartes, inhabits trees, and is of a beautiful
pale-green colour, having a body about two feet long.
Many species of small lizards inhabit the various Polynesian islands. One of the
most beautiful of these is the Naultinus elegans, of New
Zealand. It is of a beautiful green colour, ornamented with two rows of pale
gold-coloured spots down the sides. Departed spirits are supposed to transfer
themselves into this lizard; hence the natives regard it with a certain dread,
calling it an "atua" or god.
A large frog (Platymantis vitianus) is common about the swamps
in Figi; and many smaller species are met within the other islands.
The turtle is abundant amongst the islands of the western and central Pacific; and a trade is carried on with the natives for the tortoise-shell these reptiles produce. The New Guinea people construct masks and other singular personal decorations out of tortoise-shell. The eggs of the turtle are a favourite article of food, both with the natives and the traders who frequent these seas.
Three species of turtle inhabit the tropical islands of Polynesia. In Figi the
green turtle is called "vonu dina," and that which yields the tortoiseshell
"vonu taku;" there is another kind which the natives term "tovonu," said to be
from six to ten feet long. The two first kinds are kept by the chiefs in their
turtle-ponds. The turtle was formerly held sacred in the
Fortunately, the favoured isles of the Pacific are generally free from all manner
of deadly and noxious
In the larger islands of Figi there are ten kinds of snakes, none of them, however, exceeding six feet in length. Most of these are arboreal, and probably innocuous; whilst some of them are used as food by the natives. In the Navigators also are several small species, beautifully variegated.
It is probable that eventually in Pelamys and Hypotrophis.
As the aboriginal tribes throughout Australia have their tales of the muchdreaded
"bunyip"—an hypothetical monster that dwells in the swamps and
Fishes.—
The Figians hold the shark in great dread: of this scourge of the tropical seas
there are no less than nine salt-water species, besides several which are found
in fresh water, described by Dr. Seemann as inhabiting the Figis alone. He says,
"One day we encountered a very large one on the reef, where he
Of the infinite varieties of fish found throughout the Polynesian islands, many are very good eating, and a great part of the food of the natives is derived from this source. They are secured by nets, spears, fish-fences, or by stupefaction by means of intoxicating plants. In the Figis the night is the favourite period for fishing on the reefs; and large parties, chiefly of women, go forth torch in hand at such times, traversing the reefs laid bare by the tide, shouting and laughing as they proceed.
The Rev. J. Williams, in his "
There is in Figi a most beautiful fish, about the size of a mullet, and of the finest ultramarine blue colour. It is very frequent about the coral reefs, and a finer sight can scarcely be imagined than flocks of these brilliant creatures playing in the crystal water over what looks like so much mosaic-work.
Amongst the singular forms of fishes to be found about the reefs of the
Louisiade, may be mentioned the genus Holocentrum, five kinds
of which were procured there by Mr. MacGillivray; one, brilliantly coloured with
blue and silver, and the remainder more or less of a bright scarlet hue.
Crustaceans.—Shrimps, prawns, lobsters, and crabs, abound
amongst the reefs; some of them are of extraordinary forms, and display
exquisite beauty of colouring, vying with the brilliant fishes that sport
amongst these gay crustaceans in the coral pools. In the rivers and lakes of the
Samoas there are several species of fresh-water prawns and shrimps. In some of
the Figi islands there is a very large kind of land crab (probably the Birgos latro), called by the natives "ugavule."It is fierce
and strong, and is taken with some difficulty when on the ground, as it throws
earth and stones into the face of its pursuers. It climbs the highest cocoa-nut
trees, and not only pierces the young nuts, but removes the husk of the old
nuts, and breaks the shell, in order to get at the contents. The natives have a
clever method of capturing these crabs.
Mollusks.—The number of molluscan animals to which the numerous
coral reefs of the Pacific afford shelter, is very great; the shells of many of
them are remarkable for the beauty of their forms and colours, and are therefore
much sought after by conchological collectors.
New Caledonia, with its surrounding reefs, is celebrated for the vast variety of
rare and beautiful marine shells it produces, so much so, indeed, that it may be
styled the conchologist's paradise; whilst the shores of the Solomon Isles, the
Figis, the Sandwich, the Tonga, and the Samoan groups, together with the coral
islands of the
Although we cannot enter fully into a description of the conchological
productions of the
The chambered or pearly nautilus, is distributed throughout the western Pacific.
There are three species, N. pompilius, which is common, and
has an extensive range, N. macromphalus, which occurs on the
coast of New Caledonia, &c, and N. umbilicatus, which
is rare, and is found about New Georgia, New Ireland, and the Louisiade. The
animal of the nautilus was, until lately, very imperfectly known to naturalists;
and many fabulous stories were promulgated about its spreading its tentacles
like sails, and floating at will like a miniature ship on the bosom of the sea.
In the year 1829, Dr. Bennett succeeded in capturing the animal in a perfect
state, in its shell, at
The orange cowry (Cypræa aurantia), the "morning dawn" of
collectors, is found on the reefs of the Figis. So scarce is this valuable
shell, even in those localities, that the possession of one gives the wearer the
dignity of a chief. Many other species of cowry are worn round the neck, or are
strung together as armlets by the natives. In the Solomon Islands a large white
ovulum, or "egg cowry," is much employed in the decoration
of canoes, as is also "mother of pearl."In Figi, not only the canoes, but the
houses, temples, and chapels of the natives are frequently ornamented with the
white shells of the Ovulum ovum, which they call "buliqaqua."
Some fine pearls have occasionally been found; but as yet no actual attempt at a
pearl fishery has been made on a large scale, although the pearl oyster is
largely collected in the
The Triton variegatus is used as a trumpet or war-horn, not
only by the Figians, but by the people of the New Hebrides and other groups. It
is invariably to be seen in their large canoes.
Many fine species of volutes, harps, mitres, murices, cones, and other rare shells, are also met with on the reefs at low water.
Some of the bivalve shells are extremely beautiful. At New Caledonia is a species
of Tellina (T. lata), Venus, Pecten,
Cardium, Spondylus, &c., there are a great number of fine and
showy species.
On the reefs occur enormous "clam" shells (Tridacna), some of
which weigh two or three hundred weight. The valves are frequently used in Roman
Catholic churches as fonts for containing holy water. When the tide rises upon
the reefs these huge bivalves open; and instances have been known of persons
wading in search of beche-de-mer, and other marine productions, who have
incautiously stepped into them, and on the valves closing, have been held, as in
a vice, until they were drowned by the overflowing tide.
In the Sandwich Islands is a small shell of the genus Latirus,
which, when dry, exhibits no extraordinary feature, but, upon being wetted, it
instantly displays the most brilliant prismatic colours.
In New Zealand we meet with the imperial Turbo, the Struthiolaria; the large Haliotis iris, or
"pawa" of the natives, the iridescent lining of which is used by them for
ornamenting their canoes and weapons, and also for a kind of glittering
fish-hooks; and several species of Elenchus; one of which (Cantharidus iris) is much valued as an eardrop when denuded of
its outer coating. Oysters of various kinds are numerous throughout the Pacific;
and in Figi the natives make soup of a fresh-water Cyrena.
Of terrestrial molluscs, or land shells, the Polynesian islands present several
interesting groups. Helices, known as Geotrochus: many
species of this group are very beautifully spotted or banded, and their lips
brilliantly tinted with scarlet, rose colour, or yellow. Several Bulimi also are found in the forests, one of which, the Bulimus miltocheilus, from the island of Gaudalcanar, is perhaps the
most striking of any; it is of a delicate greenish straw colour, with the edge
of the lip bright vermilion.
In New Caledonia and the adjacent islands, we find a group of Bulimi of large size, numbering more than a dozen species, with thickened,
plaited mouths; they are usually of a dark-brownish colour, their interior being
either yellow or red: they belong to the genus Pleikocheilus.
In the central Pacific islands small flattened forms of "The shell that fell from heaven."Helix
occur, and the genus Partula is abundant both in species and
individuals; whilst the Achatinella; nearly two hundred
species of which prettily painted little shells inhabit the trees and ravines of
that more northern group. New Zealand has, besides a great many small land
snails, three of considerable size; the Bulimus shongi, which
belongs to the New Caledonian group, Pleikocheilus; and two
large flattened snails, the Helix Busbii, or "papa-rangi"Helix Hochstetterii,
after the geologist attached to the Austrian frigate "Novara," who discovered
it, on the scientific voyage of that vessel round the world.
Insects.—Of insect life in Figi, Dr. Seemann says, "Mosquitoes
are very troublesome in some parts; and equally irritating are the flies, which
keep one's hands constantly employed; and, in order to have a meal in peace, a
boy must be kept continually employed in driving them away. Cockroaches are
swarming in most houses, canoes, and vessels, and often disturb one during the
night, not alone by running over one's body, but by attacking it in right
earnest. Some very fine butterflies and beetles are met with; and at dusk the
woods begin to swarm with myriads of fire-flies. The leaf and stick insects can
scarcely be distinguished from real leaves. Some large kinds of spiders, amongst
them a stinging one, have to be noticed. Centipedes nearly a foot long were
frequently encountered by us in the woods; and scorpions are more abundant than
one could wish." Staphylinus emits a light
as brilliant as that of the Chinese fire-fly.
Annelides.—In the Figis, in Samoa, Tonga, and the New Hebrides,
the "balolo," a curious little marine annelidan makes its periodical appearance,
Badiata.—The beche-de-mer, or "sea slug" is plentiful in many
of the Pacific islands, and is collected extensively as an article of commerce.
This animal belongs to the genus Holothuria; and, when
prepared, finds a ready sale in the China market, where it is used as an
ingredient in rich soups. Of the beche-de-mer there are several distinct kinds,
some of which are superior in quality to others. They are procured on the reefs
at low water, or are obtained by diving in from one to two fathoms. In the Figis
there are lucrative fisheries carried on for this article, especially on the
northern side of Vanua Levu. Vessels from America and the Australian colonies
visit the various islands to rrocure the beche-de-mer for the Chinese trade.
New Zealand is situated in the extreme southwestern portion
of the Pacific, and is surrounded on all sides by the waters of that ocean. Its
position is more isolated than most other of the Polynesian groups, except the
These three islands have been officially named respectively, New Ulster, New
Munster, and New Leinster, though these appellations are but rarely used. Their
entire surface may be roughly estimated to contain about 60,000,000 of acres,
being a territory about equal in size to that of Great
Next to Australia and
The two larger islands, separated only by a strait, compose properly only one
country. The North Island is especially distinguished by the finest soil, and by
natural features of the grandest and boldest description. Chains of lofty
mountains run through both islands, which rise occasionally to the altitude of
10,000 or 12,000 feet, and are buried for two thirds of their height in snow
during a great portion of the year. From these heights numerous streams flow
down, watering in their course the most fertile and enchanting valleys. The huge
glaciers and plains of snow which cover their higher regions; the mighty
torrents which pour down from them, forming stupendous cataracts; the grand
primæval woods which crown their middle regions; the hills which wind along
their feet, decked with the brightest vegetation; the bold cliffs and
promontories which breast the might of the Southern waves; the beautiful bays,
decked with numberless villages and canoes, all conspire to present a scene,
which even the eye of the rudest voyager cannot behold without rapture.
Geologically, the three islands belong to one system, forming an extensive and
isolated mountain of elevation from the unfathomable depth of the
The North Cape of New Zealand situated in lat. 34° 25' S., terminates in barren,
precipitous sand-hills, where the foaming Pacific unceasingly dashes against the
towering black rocks which skirt the shore. Westward, a few miles from the North
Cape, and separated from it by a deep sandy bay which affords no anchorage, is
Cape Reinga, or
In the Middle Island,
On the east side of the
The rugged and indented sea-board of New Zealand affords many extensive bays and
excellent harbours, especially on its eastern coasts. The Bay of Islands has an
entrance eleven miles wide, and
Hauraki Gulf is an extensive roadstead, open to the north, with an entrance
sixteen miles wide; it is skirted by the
The Bay of Plenty is a wide expanse, also open to the north, between Hauraki Gulf
and the
The principal bays and harbours of the
The south-west coast is rugged and perpendicular, and intersected with numerous deep channels or "fiords," running inland between stupendous precipices. In many cases the water in these channels is so deep as to prevent anchorage.
Stewart's Island possesses the very fine harbour of Port Pegasus on its south-east coast, equal in every respect to that of Sydney in New South Wales, and superior to it in having three safe entrances.
New Zealand possesses some fine navigable rivers, of which the Waikato is most
important. Having its rise in Lake Taupo, in the centre of the
Rivers and streams in the
New Zealand was discovered by Tasman in 1642, during the same voyage in which he
first saw
Nothing more was heard of New Zealand, from the time of Tasman, till Captain
Cook's voyage in 1769. That celebrated navigator anchored in
In the same year, however, a French expedition, under the command of M. Marion,
visited New Zealand, where they were well received by the natives, and treated
for some time with kindness and good-nature; but some dispute arising, a portion
of them were murdered and eaten. M. Crozet says, "They treated us with every
show of friendship for thirty-three days, with the intention of eating us on the
thirty-fourth." During Cook's second voyage, in 1773, the crew of one of the
boats belonging to the "Adventure," Captain Furneaux, was also massacred and
eaten by the New Zealanders. Towards the close of the eighteenth century,
considerable intercourse began to take place between the British penal
settlement at Port Jackson, in
Between the years 1814 and 1822, two chiefs of the
Very shortly after the capabilities of New Zealand had been made known to Europe
by Captain Cook, projects for its colonization were entertained. The earliest
scheme was that suggested by the celebrated
As soon as the
In 1825, a commercial company was formed in London under the auspices of the then
Earl of Durham, which despatched two vessels to New Zealand, and acquired land
at Hokianga, and at the mouth of the River Thames. This company, however, was
prevented from carrying out its intention of forming a settlement; and its land
ultimately became vested in the
The native wars raging amongst the various tribes in the northern island, induced
a number of the leading chiefs, at the suggestion of the missionaries, to send
an application to King William IV., in 1831, to become their "friend and
guardian." This desire on the part of the chiefs led to the appointment of
The formation of the
In September, 1840, the settlement of Auckland, in Hauraki Gulf, was founded by
Captain Hobson, where the seat of government was established. These measures
produced some unpleasant feeling, both in England and in the new colony, between
the government and the officers and agents of the company; however, these
differences were reconciled; the company received a charter of incorporation in
1841; and in that year, another company, formed
New Zealand is now governed under the provisions of an act which received the
royal assent on the 30th June. 1852, and came into operation in the colonies on
5th April, 1853. This act originally established six provinces in New
Zealand:—1. Auckland. 2. New Plymouth. 3. Wellington. 4. Nelson. 5. Canterbury.
6. Otago. Of these the three former are situated in the
The province of Auckland comprises the northern half of the
This province was first occupied as a colony in 1840; the British flag being
hoisted at Waitemata by the Lieutenant-Governor, on the 9th September of that
year, and, the site of Auckland chosen for the capital; the whole of the three
islands of New Zealand having been previously declared by proclamation to be
under the sovereignty of
The city of Auckland, the seat of the colonial government in New Zealand, is
situated at the head
St. Paul's church, with its neat spire, occupying a prominent position on the
central headland, is an ornamental feature. The most considerable public
buildings are the Britomart and Albert barracks, having, together, accommodation
for nearly 1000 men. These buildings are solid and substantial, but, from being
built mostly of a dark greycoloured scoria, have a gloomy appearance. The
military stores, hospital, magazine, and commissariat
Official Bay, commanded by St. Paul's church, and with its detached cottage-like
houses, built on a sheltered slope, each snugly nestled in the luxuriant
shrubbery of its surrounding garden, looks pretty and picturesque. Commercial
Bay, as seen from the water, presents the appearance of a large town, having a
mass of houses closely packed together.
Owing to the shallowness of the water on the shore of the harbour at low tides, a
wooden jetty 500 feet long has been erected at
Seen from She high bluff in the vicinity of St. Paul's church, the harbour
presents the appearance of a land-locked, lake-like sheet of water. The
The country immediately around Auckland is for the most part devoid of timber;
and the isthmus or neck of land on which it is situated bears the strongest
traces of volcanic action. Even within sight of the town are some twenty to
thirty extinct craters of various elevations, up to 300 or 400 feet, around
which lie masses of scoria. The greater part of the land on this isthmus, which
divides the two harbours, is now in a high, state of cultivation. Solid stone
walls and quickset hedges are generally taking the place of temporary wooden
fences of posts and rails. At Epsom, and in the Tamaki district, there
Both in agriculture and commerce Auckland appears to be making rapid progress;
and, no doubt, now that the native disturbances are virtually at an end, this
part of New Zealand, so favoured both by climate and natural position, will
present great attractions to the intending emigrant. Within a radius of fourteen
miles from Auckland, there are upwards of 20,000 acres fenced in and in crop,
whilst more than 5000 head of cattle, besides horses and sheep, are depastured
on the isthmus alone. Seven hundred vessels of various sizes, and nearly 2000
native canoes, yearly enter the port of Auckland. There are more than 100
vessels registered as belonging to this port alone, besides upwards of 150
smaller coasting and river craft. Whale ships are again resorting in numbers to
this port, as the harbour is open to all the world for vessels to enter and
depart free of charge. On the island of Kawaw, in the Gulf of Hauraki, extensive
copper-mining works have been established; and at the
At the Bay of Islands there exists the small town of Kororarika, long the resort
of the
On the northern shores of the bay, Pahia, the early head-quarters of the Church mission in New Zealand, is seen, like a green oasis, nestled at the foot of high fern hills. It is a pretty spot, with about a dozen or more neat dwellings, almost embowered in foliage, and surrounded by gardens, in which the banana, the loquat, and the peach thrive beneath the mild and delightful climate of this portion of the island.
Speaking of the Bay of Islands, Mr. Angas says, "Nothing can exceed the beauty of
the scenery surrounding this harbour; the view from the flagstaff was
enchanting. The waters of the bay, indenting the rugged hills around, formed
capes, promontories, and headlands innumerable; the distant hills appeared
scattered with cowrie forests; the blue ocean broke beyond, against the tall,
dark rocks that flank the entrance to this sheltered expanse; and around,
beneath a bright evening sky, appeared rich clumps of evergreen foliage and
treefern glens, with here and there, on some rocky projection, a lofty pohukatoa
stretching out towards
Besides the regular settlements, with their various dependencies, there are to be
found scattered along the coasts of the province, generally near the mouths of
rivers, in some pleasant valley, small communities of from 50 to 200 people,
European and native. Such are the trading and mission stations of Kawhia and
Mokau, on the west coast, and those of Waingaroa, Kaipara, and Hokianga; also
the timber stations of
The province of Wellington occupies the southern portion of the
Wellington itself is situated on a beautiful bay within the harbour of Port
Nicholson. The houses are for the most part built of wood, owing to the shocks
of earthquakes which occur from time to time. It possesses excellent hotels, two
banks, several fine churches and chapels, and a commodious hospital. The new
government assembly house forms a prominent and picturesque feature on Thornton
Flat; buildings are springing up rapidly at the business part of the town,
called
The position of the harbour of Port Nicholson, at the south-eastern entrance of
Inland from Wellington there is ready access to some of the finest agricultural
and pastoral lands in either island. A fair road of twelve miles, winding
through the beautiful forest-clad hills at the back of the town, and dotted with
roadside clearings and picturesque cottages, leads to Porirua, a pretty lake and
harbour for small craft, in
Wanganui, some fifty miles further north, bids fair to be an important
settlement. The village or township called Petre, about two miles from the mouth
of the
Along the picturesque and fertile valley of the Hutt, running inland from the
head of Port Nicholson harbour, is a road communicating with the Wairarapa
plains, distant from Wellington about forty miles. This is one of the finest
pastoral districts in New Zealand, now exhibiting several little village-towns,
and the homesteads and stockstations of numbers of thriving settlers, rich in
sheep and cattle. The interior of the province, a
The little province of
The scenery of
The small province of New Plymouth, or Taranaki, occupies that projecting part of
the southwestern portion of the
Although so limited in area, nearly all the land in the province is of the finest and most fertile description, and well suited for the production of wheat, barley, potatoes, maize, and green crops of all sorts. English grasses and Dutch clover grow in the richest luxuriance. The pastures are as rich as those of Devonshire; and no clotted cream or butter can surpass that made in the dairies of New Plymouth, whilst their cheese is quite equal to the finest Stilton. The climate and water are well adapted for brewing; the hop grows well, and excellent beer is brewed near the town.
Nelson, which is the northern province of the
A few miles from Nelson is the
Inland, the valleys of the Upper Motueka, Motupiko, and Lake Arthur districts, have long been occupied as stock runs; and those of the Buller, the Grey, and the Karamea, on the west coast, offer a larger amount of fertile land than was previously supposed. These valleys are of various widths, piercing the range of bold and lofty mountains, through which these several rivers find an outlet to the sea.
Of the wild mountain region in the south-west portion of the province, Mr.
Hursthouse writes, "It is a savage, gloomy country, silent, desolate, and
Marlborough, formerly the north-eastern portion of Nelson, has recently been
erected into a separate province. Its capital is Picton, finely situated on one
of the deep arms of
The northern extremity of the province, along the shores of
The province of Canterbury occupies the centre of the
The province of Canterbury was founded by the
Port Victoria, formerly called
Lyttleton, the chief port of the province, has a population of about 1200. It is surrounded by a belt of precipitous, grassy hills, from the summits of which are seen the famous Canterbury plains—three millions of acres rolling back in gentle rise for forty miles, to the foot of the dividing range of mountains, watered by numerous rivers, and spreading north and south farther than the eye can reach.
Christchurch, the capital, is about eight miles from Lyttleton, and is pleasantly
situated on the
The country around Christchurch being very level and denuded of trees, presents
somewhat of a monotonous aspect, which, however, will disappear after a few
years, when plantations and shrubberies have attained some growth. In the city
there are twelve streets running parallel to each other, which are intersected
by seven other streets. They are named after the bishop's sees in England,
Ireland, and Wales. There are also three squares, two of them named after
Latimer and Cranmer, and the third, in the centre of the town, is called
The principal smaller settlements within the province are, Kaiapoi, a rising
village-port on the banks of the Courtenay, ten miles from Christchurch; Timaru,
a town situated near the southern boundary of the province, in the midst of a
fine pastoral district; and Akaroa, on
The country on the west side of the
The country on the eastern side of the mountains, with the exception of some
swamps near the coast, and of extensive forests on
Firewood, building-timber, and fencing materials, are close at hand, in the
forests of
The province is well watered by numerous rivers, the largest of which have their
sources in the
The remarkable harbour-stored projection of
The province of Otago, which consists of the southern portion of the Middle
Island, is bounded by Canterbury on the north, and by Foveaux
The total area of the province, including Southland, is about 30,000 square
miles, nearly the same size as Scotland, containing upwards of 17,000,000 acres,
of which 10,000,000 are estimated as being available for agricultural and
pastoral purposes. The great range of the Southern Alps runs through the western
portion of the province, which is a wild, rugged, and broken region, some of the
mountains almost rivalling those of Switzerland in altitude and grandeur, and
presenting even more desolate and barren-looking solitudes. Mount Aspiring forms
a magnificent spectacle, not only owing to its great altitude, viz., 9135 feet
above the sea, but on account of the remarkable form of its steep cone or spire.
The mountains in the vicinity of the lakes, which are themselves 1000 feet or
more above the sea, rise to an altitude of over 7000 feet, and are covered with
perpetual snow. There are three large lakes in the interior of the province, of
which the Hawea and Wanaka are the most remarkable; from these the Clutha, which
exceeds in
The western coast of Otago presents a totally different aspect from the eastern. It abounds in magnificent harbours, capable of holding the largest vessels in the world; but beautiful as these harbours are, they are almost useless from two causes. Many of them are so deep that no ship's cable could touch the bottom, whilst the range of inaccessible moun tains that skirts the heads of these western harbours prevents all access to the interior of the country, as far as is yet known.
The harbour of Otago, from which this province derives its name, is an arm of the sea, fourteen miles long, running inland from the east coast, and presenting scenery of uncommon beauty, not unlike that of the Trosachs in Scotland. The hills that surround it are of every form, densely wooded, and of most luxuriant vegetation.
Dunedin, the capital of the province, stands at the head of
Dunedin, before the gold discoveries in Otago, was a quiet, unassuming little town; now it is entering upon a fresh phase of its existence. On every side, handsome shops, fine hotels, and substantial stores, are rising, where, only a very few years ago, the flax grew wild. Streets are being cut through hills, cavities filled, pavements laid, new jetties constructed, street lamps erected, and a variety of other improvements taking place, which will go far to make Dunedin more worthy of being the capital of a gold-producing province, and one of the most important cities, eventually, in New Zealand. The present population of Dunedin is estimated at about 18,000 souls.
Port Chalmers is some eleven miles from Dunedin, abreast of the anchorage for large vessels. Steam communication is constantly kept up between the port and Dunedin.
Roads are now being made into the interior in the directions of the various gold fields; and lines of coaches traverse places where, at one time, it was a matter of difficulty for a horseman to pursue his way. The inland navigation of the rivers by means of steamers is also being developed, and agricultural and pastoral pursuits have been greatly stimulated by the augmented population. The principal gold fields are those of Tuapeka, about fifty miles from Dunedin; the Waitahuna, nine miles nearer; the Waipori, the Dunstan, and the Lindis; but the whole country appears to be more or less auriferous. Gold has also been found in Southland, extending almost to the sea coast; and a "rush" has lately been made to the Wakatipu diggings from Invercargill.
The town of Invercargill, the capital of the infant province of Southland, is
situated at the head of the estuary of the
The government of the entire colony is vested in a governor, appointed by the crown, and a general assembly, consisting of two houses, one elected by the people, the other nominated by the crown for life. Each of the nine provinces has a local government, consisting of a superintendent, and a provincial council, both elected by the people, and which have power to make laws within the province on all subjects except such as are specially reserved for the general assembly.
The European population in 1860 was estimated in the various provinces as
follows:—
The European population of each province, according to the census of 1864, was as follows:—
|
Auckland | 37,008 | |
Taranaki | 1,398 | |
Wellington | 14,938 | |
Hawke's Bay | 4,107 | |
Nelson | 11,922 | |
Marlborough | 5,349 | |
Canterbury | 32,253 | |
Otago | 48,998 | |
Southland | 8,075 | |
Total | 164,048 |
Showing an increase, since 1860, of 92,592.
The native population, which is almost exclusively confined to the Northern
Island (that of the
The climate of New Zealand seems to be well adapted to the English constitution,
and is undoubtedly one of the most healthy to be found in any part of the globe.
It possesses the best qualities of both the English and the Australian climates,
without the disadvantages of either. It has the mild winters, the clear sky, and
pure atmosphere of the latter, free from its hot winds and long-continued
droughts; whilst it has the temperate summers of the former, without its dreary
winters and severe frosts. In the spring and early summer there is much wind;
and in the winter very heavy rains, with rough tempestuous weather, occur at
times for several days together, especially about
The province of Otago, lying as it does so far to the southward, possesses a much
colder and more variable climate than that of the northern provinces, or even of
those along the southern shores of
The existence of gold in New Zealand had been known for some years, and a paying
gold field was being worked at
A mighty change seems to be dawning over the destiny of New Zealand. The sand on
its seashore, the rivers flowing through the length and breadth of its land, and
the mountain ranges from the north to the south of each island, all seem
impregnated with gold to a greater or lesser degree. The Hokitika diggings,
since they have been worked, a period of only a few months, have turned out
about 700,000l. worth of the precious metal. A correspondent
from that locality writes as follows:
"And as to the reality of the ground as a gold field, I think there cannot be
much doubt, when, within one month, more than 45,000 ounces of gold were
exported, and I doubt not the present month will be far in excess of this. A few
days ago I happened to be out riding, and selected the beach north of the town,
on which to take exercise, and found the whole beach for miles was being
occupied with diggers, who are mining just above high-water mark, and are
washing out of the sea-sand sufficient gold to produce from 5l. to 20l. per week per man. In fact, nearly the whole
coast from the
The total value of New Zealand gold exported from the colony, up to the 30th of
June, 1865, was l, and the number of ounces was 1,974,667. The principal
localities from whence the gold has been obtained hitherto have been Otago and
Christchurch provinces, but the whole of New Zealand is believed by geologists
to be auriferous.
By the last advices from New Zealand (bearing date March 20th, 1866), the yield
of gold was still increasing; over 100,000 ounces were procured from the various
diggings during the previous month alone. New Zealand presents, besides gold,
numerous other indications of mineral wealth. Copper, silver, and iron, with
coal, sulphur, and manganese have been discovered. Lead ore, tin ore, and what
is supposed to be nickel, have been detected. In the province of Wellington a
natural brass, composed of copper and zinc, has been found, but richer in copper
than manufactured brass usually is. Limestone, marble, and potter's clay are
also abundant in some parts of the country; and fine samples of chrome and
plumbago, as well as platinum and titanium have been sent to England recently
from the province of Nelson, in the
The history of the New Zealand settlements, although so brief in regard to time,
exhibits on the whole, one of the most striking amongst the many triumphs of
modern colonization. Enjoying a salubrious and delightful climate, the great
prosperity of the colonists was accompanied by a corresponding advance on the
part of the aboriginal population. Inspired by the example of the Europeans, the
natives tilled the lands bequeathed
The immediate cause of this long and harassing war arose out of the sale of a
piece of land by a native chief to the colonial government. The right
Up to the commencement of the present year the war in New Zealand has cost
764,829l. The imperial troops are now being gradually sent
from the colony; and in future the colonists will have to rely chiefly upon
their own colonial corps, their brave volunteers, and their now numerous native
allies.
The Chatham Islands are situated about 380 miles to the eastward of New Zealand.
They were discovered, in 1791, by Lieutenant Broughton in the brig "Chatham"
when on a voyage round the world with Vancouver, and were named after that
vessel. The largest island ( Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax. The other islands of
the group,
Several European settlers, with their families, at present reside on both Pitt
and
About 180 miles to the south of New Zealand, in latitude 50° 40' S., are the
The climate is described as mild, temperate, and salubrious—the mercury never
standing lower than 38° in the valleys, even in the middle of winter, and the
trees retaining their verdure throughout the
Campbell Island lies to the south of the
The New Zealanders belong to the light-coloured or true
Polynesian race, which peoples all the Pacific islands to the eastward of the
Figis. In personal appearance and language they bear considerable resemblance to
the
The men of New Zealand are generally tall and muscular; some of the chiefs are above the average height of Europeans, and but few incline to obesity. The women, on the other hand, are rather short in stature, plump, and well made; their hands and feet being frequently small and well proportioned. Their complexion varies greatly in different individuals; sometimes it is no darker than that of the peasants of Italy or Spain, at others it is considerably deeper in shade; the higher classes being much fairer than the people of inferior birth, as is the case throughout Polynesia generally.
Their hair is remarkably black, glossy, and luxuriant, though somewhat coarse;
that of the men was formerly tied up in a knot at the crown of the head, and
ornamented with feathers; they now usually crop it short, after the fashion of
Europeans. The women wear theirs long, and mostly loose, flowing over the
shoulders; the girls let it fall over the forehead, cropping it in a straight
line, about an inch above the eyebrows. Instances occur where the hair is brown
and in clustering curls; and also, though rarely, of a flaxen or golden colour.
Children having flaxen hair, are called "tikis," and
The eyes of both sexes are almost invariably dark hazel, and those of the young people are large and beautiful; but the effect of constantly sitting over the smoke of their wood fires soon destroys the beauty of their eyes, which in the old people are bloodshot and contracted. The countenances of some of the chiefs indicate a great degree of intelligence, and are totally without any savage expression; whilst the nobleness of their aspect and bearing at once proclaims their superiority over most uncivilized races of man. It is only in moments of passion and excitement that their countenances are lighted up with ferocity; at other times they display a combination of dignity and mildness which is sure to win the confidence of a stranger.
The younger women of the better class, such as the daughters of some of the important chiefs, may lay claim to be considered handsome; they possess a gipsy-like style of beauty, which is heightened by a natural modesty and bashfulness. They frequently form matrimonial alliances with Europeans, and the result of these marriages is the finest race of half-castes, perhaps, in the world. The slave women, on the other hand, are about as coarse and unprepossessing as the daughters of the chiefs are pleasing and comely.
Infanticide was formerly practised to a great
Like other Polynesians, the New Zealanders are excessively fond of their children; and the father frequently spends a considerable portion of his time in nursing his infant, who nestles in his blanket, and is lulled to rest by some native song. The children are cheerful and lively, full of vivacity and intelligence. They pass their early years almost without restraint, amusing themselves with various games, such as flying kites formed of leaves, throwing mimic spears made of fern stalks; or sailing their little flax canoes on the rivers, or watching them tossed about by the waves of the sea.
Tattooing, so prevalent throughout central Polynesia, where, in the Marquesas, it
assumes the most elaborate designs over the whole body, is confined, amongst the
New Zealanders, to the face and thighs. This process is undergone at intervals
from the period of arriving at manhood; the operation is tedious, and attended
with the most excruciating pain. The "tohungas," or priests, were generally the
operators in the ceremony of tattooing; they being considered to excel in the
art of carving, both in wood and on flesh. The ornaments consist of spiral lines
on the cheeks, and nose, and round the mouth; with radiating ones from the
eyebrows across the forehead. In character these designs resemble the patterns
of their carvings on their canoes and houses. The instrument used to produce
them is a little chisel made of bone, which is
Polygamy was customary amongst them prior to the introduction of Christianity; but even then the women occupied a high position in the social scale, many of the wives of important chiefs possessing considerable influence over their tribes.
Before the introduction of Christianity, the New Zealanders believed in the
existence of invisible spirits, which they termed "atuas," or gods, to
Although fire-arms have now almost entirely supplanted the native implements of
war, a brief notice of the latter may be interesting. In battle, each chief
always carried a staff of very hard wood with a carved head, the sharp point of
which, designed to resemble the human tongue thrust out in defiance, was urged
forward as a mark of insult to the enemy; the eyes were made of pieces of
pearl-shell inserted on each side, and the staff was still further ornamented
with red parrots' feathers, and tufts of dogs' hair. This staff, called "e
hani," was also carried in the circle of debate; the chief, whilst speaking,
running up and down, and holding in his hand the ornamented "hani." The "meri,"
or war club, was a flattened oval weapon, from one to two feet in length, used
in single combat. It was either made out of a bone of the whale or of green
jade. This weapon was fastened by a flax cord round the arm, which confined it
to the wrist, when in use. Another weapon was the "patu," a light wooden
instrument about four feet long, having a semicircular head like a chopper,
sharp towards the edge, and generally adorned with a bunch of "kaka" feathers,
the handle being frequently carved. A spear, about twelve feet long, was
mentioned by Captain Cook as being in use in the last century, but it is now
Grand feasts take place on certain important occasions. At such periods the improvident natives will prepare for the entertainment by raising an extra quantity of provisions of all kinds; and then, owing to the extravagant waste that takes place during the festivity, they submit to be half starved for months afterwards.
At one feast of this sort, given by a chief in the neighbourhood of Auckland to the surrounding tribes, the row of blankets intended as presents to his friends, with the roast pigs, and the baskets of potatoes and dried fish piled up together, exceeded a mile in length. Thousands of natives were assembled, many of them having come distances of two hundred miles. The war dance was performed at intervals during the feasting, and the entertainment kept up for several days, until all the supplies were either wasted or devoured.
The New Zealanders generally have but two meals a day—one in the morning, the
other at sunset—these consist usually of potatoes, steamed in a native oven
between heated stones, or boiled in an iron pot: their drink is water, contained
in calabashes. The food is served in baskets made of flax, or of the long narrow
leaves of the Freycinetia Banksii, plaited coarsely together.
These baskets are made
On the death of a chief, a great lamentation ensues, which is called a "tangi."
The women cut their arms and lacerate their faces and breasts in a dreadful
manner, with the sharp broken pieces of mussels and other shells, until they
become covered
The usual mode of salutation amongst the New Zealanders is that of pressing their noses together. When friends meet, who have been separated for some time, a "tangi," or crying, takes place, the parties sitting in silence opposite to each other for perhaps half an hour, exchanging no words, but uttering melancholy wailings; then, all of a sudden, they approach, press noses, and commence laughing and chatting in the most lively manner possible.
The New Zealanders bury their dead, usually erecting some sort of carved wooden
monument, or half a canoe set up on end, above the graves of their more
important personages. Mr. Angas's description of the tomb of a chief, which he
visited at
The New Zealanders were formerly celebrated for the large size, elegance, and rich carving of their war canoes. At the period of Captain Cook's first visit, double canoes of great size were observed amongst them, though none of these are to be seen at the present day. In former times large fieets of canoes often went on war excursions to different parts of the island; and as the country is everywhere intersected with considerable rivers, and contains many lakes, the canoes were dragged from one to the other. Some of their war canoes were eighty feet long, and would carry upwards of one hundred warriors. They were made of "kauri" or "totara" pine, and had gunwales on their sides, firmly attached by flax cords; they were gaily painted red, with ochre and oil, and ornamented with a profusion of bunches of white feathers along the gunwale. The head and stern-post were richly carved with spiral work and grotesque human figures, streamers of feathers flying from the latter. When not used, these war canoes were preserved under long sheds, thatched with reeds, to protect them from the weather. The ordinary canoes employed on the lakes and rivers are about thirty or forty feet long, and are propelled by broad paddles with handles, the natives shouting and singing as they proceed, all keeping time together with their paddles.
The New Zealander has a fixed and settled habitation: he either resides in his
"pah," which is a fortified stockade, or in a village, or native settlement,
which is not enclosed, where the houses are
The houses of the chiefs were formerly conspicuous objects in a New Zealand "pah" or village. They had a gable roof thatched with reeds, with a verandah in front; the wood-work being elaborately carved in grotesque shapes, representing human figures, with the tongue protruding, as if in defiance towards those who may approach. The whole of this carved work was painted red, with an ochre, called "kokowai." The interior of these houses consists of a large chamber twenty or thirty feet long, with a door and small window opening into the verandah in front. This verandah is about twelve feet deep, having the ridge-pole, and the flat frameboards of the roof inside richly painted in spiral arabesques of black and red, the margin of each spiral being dotted with white spots, which adds richness to the effect. The spaces between the wood-work are filled up with variegated reeds, beautifully arranged, and fastened together with strips of flax, dyed red, and tied crosswise, so as to present the appearance of ornamental basket-work. Above the centre of the gable-roofed portico is generally fixed a carved wooden figure of a man with protruding tongue, and eyes inlaid with pearl shell. Sometimes, to this image a beard of dogs' tails is attached. Within the centre of the house is another larger figure, richly carved, which supports, by a pillar from its head, the ridge-pole of the roof.
Their plantations and potato grounds are often extensive in the neighbourhood of
their villages. The latter are clearings from the forest, where the
The "kumera," or sweet potato, is extensively cultivated, and is esteemed sacred by the natives, many ceremonies being connected with its planting and propagation. It is chiefly eaten on the arrival of strangers, or upon the occasion of feasts and other ceremonies.
Before the introduction of blankets, the clothing of the New Zealanders consisted almost exclusively of garments manufactured from the fibres of the native flax. These garments, or "mats," as they are generally termed, display great ingenuity and taste in their fabrication; the threads are interwoven longitudinally, with others placed crosswise, and every thread is carefully fastened at intervals of about half an inch. The making of these garments rests entirely with the women; who construct within their dwellings a framework of upright sticks, before which they will sit for hours, busily employed in tying and arranging the threads, and passing the time in social gossip.
Both summer and winter dresses are composed of flax: the rougher garments, made
of the dried leaves, fastened into a fabric of stout fibres, are very warm, and
impervious to the rain, giving the wearer, when sitting down, somewhat the
appearance of a thatched hay-cock. The mat most generally worn is the
black-string mat called "e koroai," a flax dress thickly ornamented with black
strings or filaments, about a foot long, which have a very graceful appearance
as they hang over the folds of the drapery. Another kind is adorned with tufts
or bosses of coloured wool, and has black strings here and there at intervals.
Before the introduction of wool, scarlet feathers were employed for the
ornamentation of these dresses. Frequently the winter mats or cloaks are thickly
covered with strips of flax leaves, rolled up like tubes, and dyed black at
alternate intervals, resembling porcupine's quills; these dangle from the
garment, and produce a loud rustling noise as they jostle together at every
movement of the wearer. The "topuni," or war mat, belongs exclusively to the
men, and is only possessed by the chiefs, who assume it on all occasions of
ceremony or importance. The "topuni" consists of a large flax cloak, into which
is fastened, with every thread, a portion of dog's hair, assorted into various
colours, having the exact appearance of a beautiful fur. The patterns are varied
and handsome; they are often of a pure white, bordered with a broad band of
black: others are varied with black and brown or black and white hair, arranged
in narrow stripes. These war mats have a shaggy
The most beautiful and valued of all these garments is the "kaitaka," or finest
flax mat, wrought out of a species of Phormium, cultivated
especially for the purpose, the fibres of which almost resemble silk: the whole
surface is plain; the ornament being confined entirely to the border, which is,
in some cases, a couple of feet in depth, and of the richest character,
beautifully worked in vandyke patterns of black, red, and white. The natives
about the
The New Zealanders are very partial to ornaments, and adorn their heads with a
variety of feathers, and occasionally with the blossoms of the clematis, the metrosideros, and the hoya. Amongst the
feathers employed, those of the tail of the Neomorpha Gouldii
have a beautiful appearance; they are black, tipped with white; and small carved
boxes are used by the chiefs in which to keep them. Bunches of the white
feathers of the albatross are frequently worn in the ears of both sexes, as are
also small birds; or, at times, the wings of the eagle, or the hawk, are
fastened on either side of the head, producing an effect like the winged cap of
Mercury.
The most prized ornaments amongst them are those manufactured of nephrite or
green jade, which is found at a lake in the
The only native musical instrument of the New Zealanders was one resembling a small flute, which was played by the nose. It was made either of wood or of human bone—generally of the leg bone of an enemy; and when this was the case, it was highly valued as a trophy, and richly carved.
Their principal amusements are draughts, singing, and dancing; they also play at
ball, swing, and throw the spear. The war-dance was by far the most exciting of
all their heathen exercises, and was performed before commencing battle. The
purpose of this savage dance was to excite their warriors to the highest pitch
of fury, and to bid defiance to the enemy; accordingly, in its celebration, the
tongue is thrust out with the most insulting grimaces, the limbs are distorted,
the whites of the eyes are turned up, and the dancing is accompanied with ribald
and aggravating songs. On these occasions they bedaub their bodies with
Cannibalism was formerly prevalent amongst the New Zealanders. The implacable
desire of revenge which is characteristic of these people, and the belief that
the strength and courage of a devoured enemy are transferred to him who eats
him, were, without question, the causes of this unnatural taste—not the pleasure
of devouring human flesh, which was certainly secondary, and, besides, not at
all general. A chief was often satisfied with the left eye of his enemy, which
was regarded as the seat of the soul. They likewise drank the blood, from a
similar belief. The heads of vanquished enemies were stuck up on poles round
their "pahs" or villages. Preserved New Zealand heads, which are frequently to
be met with in European museums, and in the cabinets of the curious, were
prepared in the following manner. If they were heads of enemies taken in battle,
the lips were stretched out and sewn apart; if, on the contrary, it was the head
of one of the chiefs of their own tribe, who had died, and they were preserving
it with all customary honours, they sewed the lips close together in a pouting
attitude. A hole was dug in the earth, and heated with red-hot stones, and then
the eyes, ears, and all the orifices of the head, except the windpipe, being
carefully sewn up, and the brains taken out, the aperture of the neck was placed
over the mouth of the heated oven, and the head well steamed. This process was
continued until the
Within the last half-century the moral and social condition and habits of the New
Zealanders have been undergoing a great, though gradual change. Their native
weapons have, to a considerable extent, been thrown aside, and muskets of
European or American manufacture substituted for them, gunpowder and fire-arms
being the chief articles of barter brought to the coast by vessels trading with
the natives for their timber, pigs, and flax. Blankets, too, are constantly
worn—these, together with the unbecoming European costume, have, unfortunately,
almost superseded their beautiful native garments, made of the Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax. This has proved to be a change
for the worse; for the natives, being able to obtain blankets at an easy rate,
in exchange for their
In the month of April, 1843, the celebrated massacre of Europeans at the Wairau
Valley took place; in which tragedy the celebrated chief Rauparaha took a
leading part. The occasion of dispute between the settlers and the natives was
owing to the surveyors of the
Of the ten who had left their party after the first ineffectual offer of peace,
one was already badly wounded; they hid themselves amongst the bushes and ferns,
and at length managed to reach the coast, where they obtained a boat from a
whaling station, and made their escape to the company's brig. Of this sad
massacre, Mr. Angas, who visited Rauparaha's "pah" a few months afterwards,
writes, "The natives have a different story to tell; they say that the Europeans
fired first, and shot Rangihaeata's wife, and that they themselves had no wish
to fight, until their passions were roused, when they fought in self-defence.
The English were undoubtedly wrong in erecting buildings upon lands to which
they had no established claim—upon land, the sale of which was disputed, and
respecting which the commissioner had not yet given his decision. They were also
wrong in apprehending Rauparaha, who had committed no crime, and in endeavouring
to seize him by main force. But the natives, by putting to death in cold blood
the prisoners who had surrendered themselves into their hands, were guilty of a
crime that their barbarous
The history of Rauparaha is an eventful one. His birthplace was at Kawhia, on the
west coast of the
About the year 1812, the ship "Boyd," from Sydney, was at anchor near Wangaroa,
in the
During upwards of half a century that has elapsed since this shocking occurrence, the character of the New Zealander has been more accurately known. The undeniable ferocity of the savage and the cannibal has not been altogether eradicated, but it has been greatly tempered by increasing association with Christianity and a civilized government. Cannibalism has ceased, and most of the natives have embraced the Christian faith. But the cruel war into which they plunged, in the year 1860, with the colonial government, on the question of rights and customs as to the disposal of land, shows the old character ready again to display itself; as do also the several frightful massacres of Europeans which have from time to time occurred, from that of Wairau, down to the murders of the Rev. Mr. Volekner and others on the east coast, not twelve months ago.
The natives in the
The great island of Papua or
Being situated so close to the equator,
Mr. Jukes says, "Everything we saw ashore—the large sheltered houses raised on
posts above the ground, with smoke oozing through the thatch, and the heaps of
dry firewood stored in them—denote the climate to be a very wet one, and in all
our excursions into
The chain of lofty and snow-capped mountains which extends along the middle of
the south-eastern portion of
It is supposed that
The first discovery of Papua was made so long ago as the year 1511, by the Portuguese.
In the year 1528, Alvaro de Saavedra, sailing eastward from the Moluccas, fell in
with a part of the "land called Papua." The Spaniards, believing the country
abounded with gold, gave it the name of Isla del Oro. The inhabitants seen were
"black, with From this account, and also that of others who have visited the coasts of
shortuniversally all
over the country, but is most prevalent to the eastward, from whence the
same custom extends, throughout the Austral negro races to the New
Hebrides and Figi.iron."
From the resemblance between the natives of this country and those of the coast
of Guinea, this newly discovered land was afterwards styled "
The first navigator who saw the southern shores of
In 1616 Schouten and
Portions of the eastern coast of
Seventy years after the explorations of Dampier, our great navigator, Captain
Cook, when passing through
In 1768 M. de Bougainville, the French circumnavigator, with two vessels,
unexpectedly fell in with the mainland of
At Ootenata, on the south-west side of
The western and northern shores of
Gold, and other metals, are known to exist in many parts of
About twenty years ago, Captain Blackwood, during his surveying voyage in H.M.S.
"Fly," landed on the coast of
Mr. Jukes, who accompanied Captain Blackwood on this expedition, speaking of a night passed in one of the ship's boats, whilst anchored in a river in New Guinea, says, "Immediately after sunset, immense flights of parroquets passed over us, all flying to the west, at a great height above the tops of the trees. During the night we heard the howlings of wild dogs, and many strange noises in the jungle around us; a combination of croakings, quackings, and gruntings, proceeding, probably, from large birds and wild pigs."
On the south coast of
Unlike the eastern and southern coasts of
New Guinea appears to be inhabited by two distinct races of people; the Haraforas, who somewhat resemble the aborigines of Australia, and dwell in the interior of the country; and the Papuans or "crisp-haired" Austral negroes, who occupy the sea-coast.
Of the Haraforas but very little is known at present: it is said that they are
nearly black; that many of them have long, straight hair; that they make houses
in trees, to which they ascend by cutting notches in the bark; and that they
cultivate the lands in the interior. The Papuans are very much afraid of them,
although they give them scraps of iron, axes, &c., in exchange for fruit
and vegetables, which the former do not appear to possess. Further to the
eastward, the Haraforas use stone adzes; and so great was the value of iron
amongst the inhabitants about
The Haraforas have a horrible custom, which seems to be peculiar to themselves. A
young man, before he can possess a bride, must present her with a human head,
which must not be mutilated, but, on careful examination of it by her family,
bear the true marks and ornaments of an enemy. For this purpose, several young
men, desirous of obtaining wives, will start off in the direction of a hostile
tribe; and be out, perhaps, a couple of months, skulking about, before they can
succeed in surprising their victims, and possess themselves of the desired
The Papuans are usually short in stature, of a dark copper colour, with large eyes, flat noses, and long, crisp hair. The men go naked, with the exception of a strip of fibre, or native cloth, about the loins.
The ordinary dress of the Papuan women consists of a sort of petticoat of pandanus leaves, occasionally dyed of various colours:
sometimes it is composed of soft shreds, like twisted grass, and reaches from
the waist to the knee.
Of the natives of the south-east part of
The fondness of the Papuans for flowers and sweet-smelling plants is worthy of notice; they wear them in their hair, round the neck, or thrust under their armlets and girdles; a species of amaranth with purple leaves, and a species of mint, are especial favourites with them for this purpose.
One of the greatest peculiarities of these people is their mode of dressing the
hair; it is usually shaved off the temples, then combed out at length, and tied
midway with a string, leaving the front
According to the accounts of the officers of the "Rattlesnake," none of the
Papuan women seen by them in the south-eastern part of
The people of
Forrest tells us the native houses at
Mr. Jukes landed to examine several of the native huts at a spot on the
south-east coast of
Another house of much more considerable dimensions was seen by Mr. Jukes and his party from the river. He says, "When we arrived within about a third of a mile of it, we examined it with our glasses, and were greatly surprised at its size and structure. It looked just like an immense barn, one gable of which projected towards the river, but the roof stretched so far back as to leave the other end completely hidden in the woods. Under the projecting gable was a balcony, upon which several natives stood gazing at us. From this balcony one or two arched doorways led into the interior through a bamboo wall that was several feet back under the roof. The end of the house that was visible was far larger than any barn I ever saw. Whilst we were reconnoitering them with our glasses, one of the men said he saw the people puffing smoke at us from the balcony; that they waved their arms and a jet of smoke proceeded from them 'like the puff of a pipe.' This no doubt was the same action as that observed by Captain Cook when he landed on this coast further to the westward, and which has never yet been satisfactorily accounted for."
The banks of the creeks and rivers examined by Captain Blackwood's party,
appeared to be numerously populated, considerable villages occurring every now
and then, each containing four or five of the large houses besides the ordinary
huts, around which were seen crowds of men, women, and children. One immensely
long house was visited, which Mr. Jukes describes as being raised about six feet
from the muddy ground, resting on a number of
Their canoes in these rivers and creeks are quite simple, having no outrigger on either side, but appear to be merely hollowed trees. Their paddles, which are about five feet long, have a diamondshaped blade, the men using them whilst standing.
Mr. MacGillivray describes a Papuan canoe, "which measured about forty feet in
length, and was constructed of a hollowed-out tree raised at the sides with
large planks, forming a long, coffin-like box, closed with high end-boards
elegantly carved and painted. Two rows of carved fishes ran along the sides, and
both ends were peaked, the bow rising pandanus leaf, egg-cowries, and
plumes of cassowary feathers, mingled with those of the birds of paradise. The
outrigger frame-work was completely covered over, forming a large platform,
above the centre of which a small stage rested on a strong projecting beam, the
outer end of which was carved into the figure of a bird, while the inner reached
to the centre of the body of the canoe, and served to support the mast. The
planks forming the sides were strongly supported by knees, where each of the ten
or twelve outrigger poles passes through one side and rests against the other.
The mast is supported above by two stays fore and aft, and below is 'stepped'
into a massive bent timber crossing the centre of the canoe, and resting on its
bottom. The sail is of great size, and made of fine matting stretched between
two yards and rounded at the sides; when not in use it is rolled up and laid
along the platform. The large steering paddles are eight or nine feet long, with
an oval blade of half that length."
Catamarans, or rafts made of planks lashed together, are also used by the Papuans
along the
The Louisiade is the name given to a number of
The following description of
"From what we could discern,
The inhabitants of the Louisiade are all Papuans. They wear their hair frizzed
out into a mop of prodigious size, as obtains amongst the Austral negroes
generally. They perforate the septum of the nose, also, to admit of an ornament
of polished shell, pointed and turned up at each end. The lobes of their ears
are slit, the holes being either kept distended by a large plug of banana leaf,
or hung with thin circular earrings made of shells, nearly two inches in
diameter. Their only clothing pandanus passed under the legs and secured in front and behind to a narrow
waistband. They manufacture excellent fishing seines, some of which are 130 feet
in length, and are buoyed with floats of light wood, having shells for sinkers,
as is the case with those used by the Figians. The natives throughout the
Louisiade are described as being treacherous and ferocious to a remarkable
degree, as the horrible massacres of the crews of small trading vessels at
For a fuller account, see "
The
The entire group consists of eight inhabited islands, and two or three rocky,
barren, and desolate islets. Their whole superficial area comprises about 7000
square miles, upwards of 4000 of which are comprised in the large island of
Hawaii (formerly written "Owhyhee") alone, which is the most southerly, and by
far the largest of the group, being 415 miles in circumference. It was this
island which obtained a fatal celebrity as the scene of Captain Cook's death,
who was killed in an affray with the natives at
The population of the
Hawaii is by far the largest, most populous, and important island of the group, and was formerly the usual residence of the king, and the frequent resort of every chief of importance in the other islands. Foreigners, having latterly found the harbours of some of the leeward islands more secure and convenient than those of Hawaii, have been induced more frequently to visit them; and this has led the present sovereigns and principal nobles to forsake the favourite residence of their ancestors for the island of Oahu.
Of the approach to Hawaii from the sea, the Rev. W. Ellis says, "On such
occasions the elevated summit of
The base of these lofty mountains is, at the distance of a few miles from the sea-shore, covered with trees; higher up, their sides are clothed with bushes, ferns, and alpine plants; but their summits are formed of lava partly decomposed, and capped with perpetual snow. There are a few inland settlements on the east and north parts of the island, but the interior generally is an uninhabited wilderness.
The highlands of Hawaii are supposed to contain upwards of 100,000 head of wild cattle, which the mountaineers catch either in the Chilian way by the lasso, or in pit-falls; whilst numbers are shot, if not required to be taken alive. Sheep are bred in these mountain districts, several European settlers owning considerable flocks of from 800 to 1000 head; they however suffer considerably from the attacks of wild dogs, which are very numerous in these alpine regions.
Byron's Bay, on the north-east coast of the island of Hawaii, comprises a
spacious harbour, formed by a reef of coral rocks, about half a mile in breadth,
through which there is a channel three quarters of a mile wide, with a depth of
water throughout of eleven fathoms. The village of Hilo, on this bay, contains
missionary stations, Protestant and Roman Catholic, and has one of the largest
and best schools in the islands. It promises to become
The island of Hawaii, in an historical as well as a geographical point of view, is the most remarkable and interesting of the whole group. It was there that the navigators of the past age held the most intercourse with the inhabitants. It was there that Kamehameha I.—that renowned and brave warrior—dwelt, at the period of Cook's as well as Vancouver's visits. And it was there that the memorable incident occurred, which has impressed the name of "Owhyhee" upon the minds of all Europeans more strongly than that of any other island throughout the Pacific—the tragic death of the great discoverer of the group.
Maui, separated from Hawaii by a strait about twenty-four miles across, is about 140 miles in circumference, and has an area of 600 square miles. At a distance it appears like two distinct islands; but, on a nearer approach, a low isthmus nine miles across, is seen uniting its two lofty peninsulas. The high land is steep and rugged, displaying extinct craters; and though the summits of the mountains are often seen above the clouds, they are never covered with snow.
The first view of the east coast of Maui appeared quite enchanting to M. de la
Pérouse. The water
Lahaina, on the island of Maui, is a prettily situated town, facing the sea, and built amidst groves of bread-fruit and other trees. It consists of several dozen European dwelling and store-houses belonging chiefly to the merchants established at this port (who are engaged in supplying the whalers that visit the island), and to the mission; and perhaps about ten times that number of native huts. It has also a fortress, of inconsiderable importance, which serves as a residence for the governor of the island. The population of Lahaina is between 3000 and 4000.
The range of mountains that passes behind Lahaina runs the entire length of the island, and has peaks varying in altitude from 6000 to 10,000 feet. The most lofty of these, called Hale-a-ka-la, or "the house of the sun," is an extinct volcano, with a crater of enormous size. Mr. Cheever, who visited it in 1850, says, as he and his party advanced to its edge, there suddenly opened upon them a pit from twenty-five to thirty miles in circumference, and 2000 or 3000 feet deep. They counted within it about sixteen basins of old volcanoes—volcano within volcano.
A few miles south of Maui is the small island of Tahaurawe, about eleven miles
long by eight across.
Ranai, to the north-west of Tahaurawe, seventeen miles long and ten broad, is for the most part barren, and suffers much from droughts at certain periods. The ravines are filled with thickets of low timber; and the coasts abound in shell-fish. The inhabitants are not numerous.
Molokai is a long, irregular island, divided by a narrow strait from the west of Maui. It appears to consist of a chain of volcanic mountains forty miles in length, and not more than seven broad. These mountains are broken by numerous deep ravines and water-courses, the sides of which are clothed with verdure. There is but little level land in Molokai; several spots, however, are fertile, and in such places the plantations repay the toil of their cultivators.
Oahu is the most romantic and fertile of all the hibiscus and other trees, the
traveller suddenly emerges into an open space, and, turning round a small pile
of volcanic rocks, the "Pari" all at once bursts upon him with an almost
overwhelming effect. Immense masses of black and ferruginous volcanic rocks,
many hundred feet in nearly perpendicular height, present themselves on both
sides to his astonished view; while, immediately before him, he looks down the
fearful steep several hundred feet, and beholds hills and valleys, trees and
cottages, meandering streams and winding paths, cultivated plantations and
untrodden thickets, and a varied landscape many miles in extent, bounded by
lofty mountains on the one side, and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the
other—spread out before him as if by the hand of enchantment." Within a few
yards of the upper edge of the pass, at the top of the precipice, there formerly
stood two hideous stone idols, before which every native, previous to commencing
his descent, was wont to lay a green bough, and encircle them with a garland of
flowers, to render them propitious to his descent. These were called "Akua no ka
Pari," or "
The harbour of Honolulu, in the island of Oahu, is formed by an indentation of
the coast, and a
Forty years ago, the town of Honolulu consisted of between 100 and 200 huts,
built of dried grass, and inhabited by the natives, who subsisted by fishing and
the cultivation of the taro root, together with a few houses of unburnt brick or
wood, occupied by some chiefs and a few Europeans or Americans. At the present
time, this poor collection of native huts has become a thriving capital, with a
population of over 11,000 souls, about 1000 of which are foreigners, the greater
proportion being Americans, and now naturalized subjects of the Sandwich
Islands. The central portion of the town consists of wide, regularly laidout
streets, on either side of which stand warehouses and dwelling-houses,
constructed after the European style, generally painted, and frequently placed
within spacious gardens. The outer portions and suburbs are still chiefly
composed of grass huts; although here and there are houses built of coral
limestone. The king's palace is a handsome building, in good taste, surrounded
by pleasure-grounds, and approached through an avenue of shady trees; and
several of the public edifices are worthy of notice, such as the custom-house,
the government offices,
Honolulu possesses an excellent police force, and an efficient fire brigade; schools for the youth of both sexes; a hospital, built with subscriptions obtained through the untiring exertions of the late king and his queen; a theatre, and a circus. Several newspapers are published weekly; and there are some superior hotels in the business part of the town.
Elevated lands, divided by broad ravines, or fresh green vales, rise beyond the narrow plain, at the extremity of which the town of Honolulu stands. On these lands are many native houses, distributed about amidst the luxuriant vegetation of the climate. They generally stand in the midst of plantations of taro, or have around them gardens of coffee and sugar-cane. The views around are picturesque and beautiful. At intervals, throughout the lower lands, are to be seen groves of palms and cocoa-nut trees; whilst higher up the hills appears the deep green foliage of the indigenous trees of the cooler regions.
Seventy-five miles north-west of Oahu is situated the island of Tauai, which is mountainous and romantic in the extreme, but not so fertile as Oahu, or Maui. It is forty-six miles long and twenty-three broad, and covers a surface of 520 square miles. The principal settlements are in the neighbourhood of the Waimea River, the roads at the entrance of which are the usual resort of vessels calling at Tauai. The inhabitants are generally a hardy and industrious race.
Nihau is a small island twenty miles long, and distant from Tauai about fifteen miles. These two last-named islands were formerly celebrated for the manufacture of their fine painted or variegated sleeping mats: these mats are sometimes eighteen or twenty yards in length, and three or four yards in breadth; yet they are woven by the hand, without any frame, with surprising regularity and exactness; they are made with a fine kind of rush, parts of which are stained of a red colour with a vegetable dye, their beautiful patterns being formed either by weaving them into the mat at its first fabrication, or working them in after it is finished. Yams are extensively cultivated both at Tauai and Nihau, where they attain a very large size.
Taura, the most westerly of the whole group, is merely a barren rock, the resort of vast numbers of seafowl; for the purpose of procuring which, together with their eggs, this spot is occasionally visited by the natives of the windward islands.
The Sandwich islanders are strong, active, and well made; in height rather above
the average of our own countrymen. Their skin is of an olive brown; those who
expose themselves much to the sun being considerably darker, whilst the
complexion of the nobles is comparatively fair. Their hair is black, and either
waving or quite straight. Their countenances are characterized by a fulness of
the nostrils, although the nose is not flat; the face is wide, and the eyes
bright and black. The women, when young, are unquestionably attractive in their
appearance and manners, and retain their beauty
The Sandwich Islanders were never addicted to cannibalism; even at the period of their first intercourse with Europeans, they appear to have held the custom in abhorrence; human sacrifices were, however, offered to the gods.
They have a custom of giving a feast on the day of the anniversary of the death of those who were dear to them. They also are fond of keeping the bodies of the dead, coffined, but unburied, in their dwellings; telling stories and anecdotes of the departed, and holding imaginary converse with them. Infanticide was formerly very prevalent amongst these people, as indeed it appears to have been throughout Polynesia, previously to the introduction of Christianity. The dog, in heathen times, was a favourite article of food, and hundreds of these animals, together with pigs, were roasted at their feasts and grand religious ceremonies.
The native females of the
The beautiful helmets and cloaks formerly worn by the chiefs, as well as the
heads of some of their large idols, were covered with the red, yellow, and green
feathers of a small bird. Another bird, the Melithreptes
pacifica, inhabiting the mountainous parts of the islands, has under each
wing a single feather of a yellow colour, one inch in length. These birds were
caught by means of a sort of bird-lime smeared on poles, and the two precious
feathers secured. Of such feathers alone was the "mamo" or war-cloak of
Kamehameha I. composed. This invaluable mantle was four feet long, and eleven
and a half feet in width at the bottom. Its formation occupied nine successive
reigns.
The native taro plantations are kept in admirable order. In the low districts, these plantations are intersected by deep and regular ditches. The hedges are exceedingly neat, and almost elegant; whilst the roads would, for completeness, do honour to European engineers.
The following vivid sketch of the system of "tabu," from the pen of Mr. Hopkins,
will convey an idea of this singular custom, once so prevalent in the Sandwich
Islands, and, indeed, throughout the various groups inhabited by the
light-coloured or Polynesian race: he says, "One of the great instruments used
by both king and priests for maintaining their power and their revenue was the
system of 'tabu.' It was a consecration of any object, or quietus made in double darkness. Such a tabu was a
living death: the silence of an Indian 'dhurna' was not so depressing."
In the neighbourhood of Waimea, in Hawaii, are the remains of the once famous
"heiau," or principal temple of idolatrous worship throughout the islands. On
the first step of the mountains that rise into the interior to so grand a
height, is a spot which is composed of the débris of later eruptions. Here
In the month of January, 1779, Captain Cook's two vessels, the "Resolution" and
the "Discovery," cast anchor in
A sad mistake was committed shortly afterwards, by the Europeans taking the wooden fence which surrounded the top of the "heiau," or sacred temple, for fuel, carrying it, along with the numerous idols attached to it, on board the ships' boats. Other causes of dissatisfaction on the part of the visitors took place. They treated the natives in a severe and arbitrary manner, and at the same time the whole island was heavily taxed to provide the large supply of necessaries the two ships' companies required.
At length, in consequence of some petty act of theft on the part of the natives,
a canoe was fired into from the "Discovery;" a chief of high rank was knocked
down and ill-treated by the seamen, whom the natives, with showers of stones,
drove back to the water. The ship's pinnace was afterwards taken and plundered,
but the chief who had been ill-used exerted his authority and restored the boat,
expressing his regret at the affray. During the darkness of the night, however,
one of the "Discovery's" cutters, which was moored to a buoy, was stolen; and
Cook, resolved to recover the boat, determined to secure the king or some of the
royal family on board his ship until it was restored. For this purpose Captain
Cook landed, but the people having already had their suspicions aroused,
objected to the king's going farther. Whilst the king was hesitating, a man came
running up with the intelligence that some of the whites had fired into a canoe
on the other side of the bay, and killed a chief. At this intelligence the
natives began to arm themselves with stones, clubs, and spears. Cook turned to
walk
The native accounts say of this tragic occurrence, "That when the crowd which was
about Cook and the king heard of the death of Kalimu, the chief who was shot in
the canoe, they became clamorous for revenge; and one of the people, with a
short dagger in his hand, approached the captain, who, fearing danger, fired at
him with his gun. A general contest began, and Cook struck a chief named
Kalaimano Kahoowaha with his sword. This powerful warrior seized him with one
hand to hold him, not with any idea of taking his life, for, supposing him to be
the god Lono, he believed him incapable of death. Cook being about to fall,
cried
As yet no suitable monument has been erected on the spot where the great navigator fell; a few copper plates, with inscriptions punched upon their, being all that record the scene of the death of Cook on the shores of Hawaii.
At the period of the discovery of these islands, in 1778, by Captain Cook, Kalamopua reigned as king of Hawaii. At his death he left the eastern portion of his dominions to his son Kiwalao, and the western to his nephew Kamehameha, who afterwards became the most famous warrior and king whose deeds are recorded in the native annals. Kiwalao, excited by his chiefs, entered the territory of Kamehameha, and being met by his rival, was totally defeated, after a contest which lasted for eight days, and which ended by Kamehameha becoming master of the whole island. Soon afterwards he defeated Kahekili, king of Maui and several of the other islands in the western part of the group.
In 1786 the unfortunate La Pérouse anchored his two frigates in the straits between Maui and Molokai; but he remained there only two days, and consequently obtained but little knowledge of the islands or their inhabitants.
In 1793 Vancouver, after visiting the west coast of North America, returned to
the
Vancouver again visited the
In the spring of 1819 this remarkable man died, and was succeeded by his son
Liholiho, then in the twenty-fourth year of his age, under the title of
Kamehameha II. In the following year the first Christian missionaries arrived in
Hawaii: they were sent out by a society in the
After the arrival of the "Blonde" with the survivors of the party, the succession to the throne was determined in favour of Kauikeouli, the brother of the late king, a youth only twelve years of age. He was accordingly proclaimed king, and his mother declared guardian of the kingdom during her son's minority. In 1833 the regent died, upon which the young king, then aged twenty, assumed the entire government of the group under the title of Kamehameha III.
Mr. Hill thus describes a visit he paid to King Kamehameha III., at Honolulu. He
says, "The gate leading to the palace stood wide open as we approached it; and,
upon entering, we found about
On the death of Kamehameha III., which took place in December, 1854, he was
succeeded by his nephew,
The present sovereign of the
In the summer of 1865, Queen Emma, the widow of Kamehameha IV., arrived in
England on a visit to Lady Franklin, and with the purpose of interesting the
friends of
The Hawaiian flag is composed of coloured stripes, having the union jack of Great Britain quartered in the corner. The government is represented by consular agents in Great Britain, France, Chili, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and the Russian settlements on the Amoor.
This little kingdom of the
Horses have multiplied since their introduction with wonderful rapidity. The
table of inland revenue for 1860 gives 27,663 horses returned for taxation, to
which may be added 2781 mules.
Speaking of the great changes the intercourse of Europeans has effected amongst
these people, more especially since the gold discoveries of California have
caused a large trade to spring up between that country and the
Newspapers in both the English and native (Kanaka) language are published at Honolulu, and a good library is established. Education has also made considerable progress, as there are between forty and fifty Protestant schools, with over 12,000 scholars, scattered throughout the islands, besides a large number of Roman Catholic schools. The present bishop of Honolulu, Dr. Staley, was consecrated at Lambeth by the archbishop of Canterbury, and went out to these islands in 1862, with a staff of three other clergymen, at the express desire of the late king, and with the concurrence of our gracious queen; who, to mark her interest in the movement, consented to become sponsor to the young prince, whose public reception into the church had been postponed until the arrival of the bishop at Honolulu.
Being the apex of that area now traversed by the commerce of Australia,
California, and China, as well as a great resort for whaling ships, the port of
Honolulu is now acquiring considerable importance, as the principal mercantile
resort in the
This important group, comprising nearly two hundred islands,
besides islets, rocks, and reefs, is situated in the south-western Pacific,
between latitude 15° 30', and 19° 30' south, or rather more than midway between
the
The first account we have of the discovery of the Figian archipelago, is that of
Towards the beginning of the present century, the Figis were visited from time to
time by vessels from the
There are several good roadsteads and harbours in the Figian group, the principal of which is the extensive harbour of Levuka on the eastern side of Ovalau. These islands rise in general abruptly from the sea, and present, in their bold and irregular outline, the peculiar characters of the volcanic formation to which they belong. With the exception of some tracts on the two large islands about the deltas of the great rivers, but very little level land is to be anywhere seen. Almost every island is surrounded either with a fringing reef of coral, or one separated from the shore by a channel more or less narrow.
The Figi Islands may be said to owe their origin to volcanic upheavings and the busy operation of corals. At present there are no active volcanoes, but several of the highest mountain peaks must, in times gone by, have been formidable craters. Hot springs are occasionally met with, and earthquakes experienced, thus showing that Figi is still not altogether secure against plutonic action.
Most of the country is of an undulating nature, pandanus) presents itself." The high
ridges of mountains, which form the backbone of the two largest islands, attract
the moisture from the clouds; and, intercepting the numerous showers, send down
streams of never-failing water to fertilise the valleys below.
Dr. Seemann thus describes their coasts: "The coast-line of most of the islands
is enriched by a
There are but few parts of the globe where nature has been more bountiful and lavish in distributing her vegetable treasures than in Figi; the fertile soil of these islands producing an incredible number of the most valuable forest trees, fruits, and plants, adapted to the service of man.
The climate of the Figis is tropical, but the heat is moderated by the trade-wind, so that its mean temperature does not exceed 80° Fahr. The islands are generally healthy, dysentery being about the only disease Europeans have to fear.
Elephantiasis is a disease to which the Figians are more or less subject; it is, however, local in its appearance, being principally confined to the inhabitants of the low, damp valleys. In the island of Naigani it is fearfully prevalent, whilst many large districts are almost free from it. The natives ascribe it to the use of the cocoa-nut milk.
Dysentery is also frequent amongst them at certain seasons of the year: this disease the Figians believe to be catching, and they carefully avoid using a seat or a mat which has been occupied by a person suffering from it. Fever, that scourge of the Samoas, is unknown in the Figis.
From October to April, the hottest season, a considerable quantity of rain falls; whilst there are occasional showers during the dry season, which lasts from May to September. Hurricanes and thunder-storms seldom occur, except in the months of January, February, and March; and frequently several successive years pass by without the occurrence of the former.
It is currently reported that in the interior of the largest of the islands, Viti Levu, there exists an extensive table-land, with a large lake, on which the natives cross with canoes. The highest peak in the island, and probably in all Figi, is that of Voma, which was first ascended, in 1860, by Dr. Seemann, in company with Mr. Pritchard and Colonel Smythe. At the elevation of 2500 feet above the sea, the virgin forests were entered, and a vegetation quite different from that of the lowlands encountered; all the trees being densely loaded with orchids, mosses, lichens, and ferns.
The third island in size of the Figian group is Taviuni; it is about twenty-four
miles long and nine broad, and is traversed by a chain of mountains about 2000
feet high, the tops of which are usually wrapped in clouds. Dr. Seemann thus
describes the appearance of Taviuni: "Stately cocoa-nut palms Coriphilus solitarius),
valued on account of its scarlet feathers by the Tonguese, and still more by the
Samoans, for ornamenting mats. Numerous streams and mountain torrents, fed
principally by a lake at the summit, descend in every direction, and greatly add
to the beauty of the scenery. The northern shores especially, forming, in
conjunction with the opposite island of Vanua Levu the straits of Somo-somo,
teem with vegetation, and present a picture of extreme fertility. The trees and
bushes are everywhere overgrown by white, blue, and pink convolvulus and other
creepers, often entwined in graceful festoons. Here and there the eye descries
cleared patches of cultivation, or low brushwood, overtopped by the. feathery
crowns of magnificent tree-ferns, with villages nestling among them. The air is
laden with moisture, and there is scarcely a day without a shower of rain."
The summit of the mountain of Somo-somo, in Taviuni, consists of a large extinct crater, filled by a clear, deep lake, full of eels, the north-eastern part of which is entirely covered with a vegetable mass several feet in thickness, and sufficiently solid to bear the weight of persons wading across it. This jelly-like mass is composed of microscopic waterplants, and so much resembles in colour and appearance the green fat of the turtle, that the natives say the fat of all the turtles eaten in Figi is transported thither by some supernatural agency.
The island of Kadavu, the most southerly of the Figis, is next in size to
Taviuni, and possesses an anchorage on the north side, in
Although several of the Figian islands exhibit signs of craters, there is only one place where there are any visible indications of volcanic heat; this is at Savu-savu, on the island of Vanua Levu, where there are boiling springs similar in character to those of New Zealand, alluded to in a previous chapter. Earthquakes, as in most volcanic regions, are frequent; they usually occur in the month of February, several shocks being often felt during a single night.
Sugar, coffee, tamarinds, and tobacco, as well as cotton, thrive wonderfully in the Figis, and may be expected, especially the latter, to form considerable articles of export from these islands, as soon as European enterprise has been sufficiently directed towards them.
The indigenous vegetable productions of Figi would, many of them, prove highly
remunerative if properly turned to account. The annual value of the cocoa-nut
oil extracted by the natives in their present primitive and wasteful manner, is
not less than 6000l. on the spot. Already several enterprising
Europeans have set up proper machinery at Somo-somo and other parts of Figi, for
the production of cocoa-nut and other vegetable
The sandal-wood (Santalum), so much valued as an article of
commerce, has now become almost extinct in the Figis; thousands of tons of it
were formerly exported from thence into China, where it readily fetched from
twenty to thirty pounds a ton.
Sheep have been imported, and wool is now being produced in some of the Figis by British subjects from Australia, several extensive sheep-runs having recently been purchased from the chiefs on the northern shores of Viti and Vanua Levu.
The Figians are generally above the middle height, especially the chiefs, who are
tall, well made, and muscular; whilst the lower orders exhibit a certain
meagreness, arising from laborious service and scanty nourishment. Their
complexion in general is between that of the true Papuan and the copper-coloured
race, although instances of both extremes are to be met with, indicating a mixed
descent from the two different stocks. Though the young people are often
handsome, they are inferior to their neighbours, the Tonguese, in beauty of
person. Unlike most of the Polynesian natives, the Figians exhibit
The faces of the greater number are long, with a large mouth, good teeth, and a well-formed nose. Instances, however, are by no means rare of narrow and high foreheads, flat noses, and thick lips, with a broad, short chin; still, they have nothing about them of the negro type. Their eyes are generally fine, being black and penetrating. Their hair is crisp, and disposed to be somewhat woolly, great pains being taken to spread it out all over the head into a mop-like form. The chiefs, in particular, pay much attention to the dressing of the hair; and for this purpose all of them have barbers, whose sole occupation is the care of their masters' heads. To dress the head of a chief occupies several hours, and the hair is made to stand out to a distance of eight inches. They are very careful not to crush these grand wigs; and when they lie down they rest their necks on wooden pillows, elevated with legs about ten inches from the ground, so that the elaborately-dressed hair may sustain no pressure.
The Figians build large canoes. They are bold navigators, and make somewhat distant voyages from one island to another, steering only by the stars, or by the trade-wind that blows pretty constantly in one direction.
They build the frames of their houses of the timber of the bread-fruit tree, and fill them in with reeds, whilst they cover the roof with a thatch of the wild sugar-cane. The ordinary houses are usually oblong in shape, being from twenty to twenty-five feet in length by fifteen in breadth. They have, for the most part, two doors, and a fire-place of stones in the centre. The furniture consists of a few boxes, mats, clay jars, and drinking-vessels; the manufacture of pottery being extensively carried on by them.
The "bures," or public sleeping-houses, are a singular feature in every Figian village. All along the sides of these buildings are sleeping-places, covered with fine mats, and between each of these is a fire-place, and a stage on which to rest the legs; the head, or rather the neck, being supported by a wooden pillow. In these "bures" all the male population, whether married or single, sleep; and here, in the evenings, are argued all manner of questions touching on Figian politics and other topics. The events of the day being discussed whilst the company are all busily engaged in plaiting cocoa-nut fibre, and smoking their cigarettes of native-grown tobacco, the "kava" bowl is brought in, and the preparation of the nauseous and intoxicating draught commenced. As the night advances, and the conversation begins to slacken, the men, one by one, rest their necks carefully on their wooden pillows, so that their large mop-wigs may not be crushed; and, cocking their legs upon the stages, drop off to sleep.
The principal occupation of the people, when not engaged in war, is the
cultivation of their
Amongst the Figians the women only are tattooed; the operation is performed by members of their own sex, and is only applied to the corners of the mouth and a small portion of the legs.
Some of the Figian women of the higher class are of a much lighter colour than
those of the ordinary stamp, and are dignified and prepossessing in their
bearing. Dr. Seemann thus describes the queen of
The Figians have a superstitious dread of travelling in the forests after nightfall; they imagine they behold ghosts and evil forms in every direction, and shout at the top of their voices, like terrified children, to drive them away. Rebels, when taken prisoners, were (according to the accounts of John Jackson, who resided amongst the Figians for a considerable time many years ago), fastened to banana stems, and laid down on the beach as rollers, over which the conquerors rolled their enormous war canoes, the weight of which crushed the wretched victims, and disembowelled them. Their bodies were afterwards cooked and eaten, the priests performing the usual ceremonies over them.
Sacred groves, trees, and stones, formed a prominent feature in Figian paganism;
the latter, of peculiar form, were erected in various places, and worshipped as
having reference to procreation. Many of the sacred groves have been latterly
cut down, though some still exist. In the Rewa district is one beneath an
enormous cluster of banyan trees, interlaced
The Figians are said not to worship idols, although carved figures are sometimes met with in their temples. The heathen priests, besides announcing oracular communications from the gods, offer up prayers in the temples to them, invoking their aid for success in war, for fruitful seasons, for plenty of fish, and for life and freedom from disease.
The Pantheon of the Figians contains many deities. Their principal one is Ovê,
who is considered the maker of all men; next in order, and the one most
generally feared, is Ndengei, who is worshipped under the form of a large
serpent, and is said to dwell in a sacred cave in Viti Levu. They have also
malicious and mischievous gods, which reside in "bulu," where reigns a cruel
tyrant, with a grim aspect, whom they name Lothia. Samuyalo (destroyer of souls)
is his colleague, and sits on the brink of a huge fiery cavern, into which he
precipitates departed spirits. A belief in a future state appears to be
universal amongst the Figians; and this doctrine they extend not only to the
human race, but to all animals, and even vegetable and mineral substances. If an
animal or a plant die, its soul goes at once to "bulu." If an axe or chisel is
worn out or broken, away goes its soul for the service of the gods. If a house
is taken down or destroyed, its immortal part finds a situation on the plains of
"bulu." As a confirmation of this
Twenty years ago the Figians were described as being the most systematic and
inveterate cannibals on the face of the globe. The bodies of their enemies were
always eaten, and not only men, but women and children, were slain to be
devoured. Twenty years ago, the Rev. W. Lawry tells us, "Formal sacrifices are
frequent among them. The victims are usually taken from a distant tribe; and
when not supplied by war or violence, they are at times obtained by negotiation.
After being selected for this purpose, they are often kept for a time to be
fattened. When about to be sacrificed, they are compelled to sit upon the ground
with their feet drawn up under their thighs, and their arms placed close before
them. In this posture they are bound so tightly that they cannot stir or move a
joint. They are then placed in the usual oven upon hot stones, and covered with
leaves and earth, where
Cannibalism has fortunately now almost died out in Figi, being confined to a few
heathen localities only. In a very short period it will be known but as a thing
of the past, and referred to by the natives themselves with horror and disgust.
Kuruduadua, the powerful heathen chief of Namosi, in Viti Levu, has also lately
abolished this barbarous custom, which, within the last very few years, was
carried on to an alarming extent amongst his people. At the time of the visit of
the officers of H.M.S. "Herald," when engaged in a survey of the Figis, not ten
years since, Namosi was the stronghold of cannibalism; there were ovens in the
public square for baking the bodies; and huge pots, into which the victims were
cast alive to be boiled for their horrible feasts. The flesh was eaten with
large forks, made of the hard wood of the Casuarina, and
having several prongs. Taro and other vegetables were frequent accompaniments to
these feasts. For every enemy's corpse brought into the town to be eaten, a
stone was placed near the "bure," or sleeping-house, and upwards of 400 of these
stones were counted against one "bure" in Namosi.
Bau, the capital of Figi, is built on a small island connected by a reef with the
large island of Viti Levu. The beach is thickly covered with native
The people of Bau are superior to those of most parts of Figi: they are tall, well-proportioned, and often with a handsome cast of countenance. The king, Thakombau, is supreme chief of Bau, and head sovereign of all Figi. In 1859, this personage, with the approbation of the leading chiefs, made a formal cession, through the British consul, of the whole of the Figi (or Viti) group to the crown of England. Although the occupation of these important and prolific islands has been repeatedly urged upon the home government by the several naval officers who have had an opportunity of examining them, the offer made by Thakombau has not as yet been accepted.
The following passage from Dr. Seemann's narrative will show the wonderful
progress made by the Figians under the teaching of the missionaries. He says,
"Until 1854, Bau, the metropolis as well as the ruling state, was opposed to the
missionaries; and the ovens in which the bodies of human victims were baked
scarcely ever got cold. Since then, however, a great change has taken place. The
king and all his court have embraced Christianity; of the heathen temples,
which, by their pyramidal form, gave such a peculiar local colouring to old
The Tonguese have not inaptly been styled the Anglo-
During the rebellion in Figi, about ten years ago, the aid of King George of Tonga was sought by Thakombau, to assist in quelling it. A large fleet of canoes and a strong reinforcement of warriors soon arrived from Tonga; and, under Maafu, a powerful and unscrupulous Tonguese chief, the nominal authority of Thakombau was re-established. A vessel of eighty tons, built in the United States, was presented to King George for his assistance, by the people of Bau; and from that period, Maafu remaining in Figi, a system of oppression and annexation was carried on by him and his party (who were 3000 strong), which would probably have resulted in the conquest of all Figi by the Tonguese, had it not been frustrated by the timely return of Mr. Pritchard, the British consul, with the intelligence that the cession of Figi was under the consideration of Her Majesty's government. Peace was thus established for a short period only, the war again breaking out between the Tongans and Figians with increased animosity. It was not till July, 1861, that these hostilities ceased. Commodore Seymour, in H.M.S. "Pelorus," then visited Figi, and by his influence a treaty of peace was drawn up and agreed to by all parties, thus terminating this long and desolating conflict between the two races.
The house of Mr. Pritchard, her majesty's consul in Figi, is on a little rocky
islet on the west of Ovalau, where the British flag waves on its summit. The
steep slopes of the island have been formed
The present population of the Figian archipelago is estimated at 200,000, of whom upwards of 60,000 are numbered as converts to Christianity.
These islands are situated south-east of the Figis at a
distance of about 200 miles, in south latitude from 18° to 22°, whilst the 175th
parallel of west longitude intersects the largest island of the group. They form
three distinct and separate groups, which
The most southern group is known as the
The central group called the
The most northern group is that of Vavau, which has several islands larger and
higher than those of Haabai. Vavau itself is a fine island, about thirtysix
miles in circumference; its surface is uneven, and its northern side rises to a
considerable height. Of the beautiful harbour of Vavau, Mr. Young says, in his
journal, "The bay of Vavau is capacious,
The climate of the
Captain Wilkes estimates the total population of the
The natives of the
Dr. Seemann justly says, "When most people read of 'natives' they imagine them to
be types of unsightliness, if not downright ugliness; of many races, not
Caucasian, that may in some measure be true, but whoever goes to the
The Tonguese in personal appearance so closely resemble the Samoans, that at first sight they might easily be taken for the same people, more especially as their habit of tattooing the body from the hips to the knees is precisely similar.
Captain Erskine remarks, "Amongst this people one is struck with the marked
superiority in stature, and the lightness of colour, on the part of the chiefs
over the common people, betokening a great
The dress of both sexes is the graceful "gnatoo," which is a piece of tappa cloth, measuring about eight feet by five or six. This is worn in several different ways, but is generally fastened round the waist in several folds, the remaining portion forming a robe that descends to the ankles.
They are continually bathing, oiling, and dressing themselves; and the females delight in making wreaths of fresh and fragrant flowers with which to adorn their heads. The oil they use is made from the cocoa-nut, and is generally scented either with sandal-wood, or the leaves of sweet-smelling plants.
As is the clothing, so are the ornaments worn by both men and women, the same.
Necklaces made of the fruit of the pandanus, or of sweet
flowers, and
Their largest canoes are all built in the Figis, and are some of them upwards of
100 feet in length. These are termed double canoes by Europeans, although the
second or attached body is merely an outrigger, composed of a tree hollowed out
for the sake of buoyancy, like the canoe itself. Even the hull of the main canoe
is seldom occupied by crew or passengers, with the exception of one man, who,
when at sea, is constantly employed in baling; the seams of the planks being
only lashed together with cocoa-nut cord. Beams are laid across between the two
hulls, as it were, on which is built a house with a shelving roof, to hold
provisions. Over this, again, rises a platform, surrounded by a railing, which
forms the deck or principal place of resort. These unwieldy and fragile vessels
are navigated in the face of the usual trade-wind between 200 and 300 miles; and
King George once paid a visit to the
The common houses of the Tonguese are formed on the same plan as those of their neighbours the Samoans.
The Wesleyan chapel at Neiafu, the principal mission station at Vavau, is thus described by Captain Erskine:—"This building is of large dimensions, being one hundred feet long by forty-five wide, and twenty-eight or twenty-nine high. In general design it resembles those of Samoa, having curved ends and a high pitched roof. It differs from them in having two rows or orders of columns, every three of the lower supporting a short beam, from which springs the second order, bearing the ridge pole. This, as well as all the horizontal beams, is most beautifully ornamented with cocoa-nut plait, so arranged as to give the appearance of Grecian or Italian mouldings of infinite variety and delicate gradations of colour; black, with the different shades of red and yellow, being those employed. Different combinations of interlacing diamonds or rectangular figures formed the groundwork of these designs; but the same one was seldom twice repeated, and the size of the pattern being nicely proportioned to the distance from the spectator's eye, the effect was very artistic and pleasing."
The ancient burying-places of the Tonguese chiefs, called "faitokas," were built of coral limestone, forming an oblong square platform several feet high, and surrounded by a wall, the interior being paved with coloured corals and pebbles, whilst a temple occupied the centre. The approach to these sacred places, which were once strictly "tabu," consists of several rows of stone steps; and their environs are usually surrounded by a grove of dark and shady trees.
Cannibalism never seems to have been popular amongst the Tonguese, as in Figi.
When first visited by Captain Cook, it was scarcely thought of amongst them; and
Mariner tells us that they were taught to eat human flesh by the Figians, who
instructed them in this practice, as well as in the art of war. During times of
scarcity and famine, they are said to have waylaid and murdered one another for
food, being driven to this necessity from sheer starvation. Some years before
Mariner was taken prisoner by them, in 1806, the bodies of three seamen,
belonging to an European vessel, who had been slain in an affray at Tonga, were
cooked and eaten as pork. All those, however, who partook of this feast were
seized with nausea and vomiting, whilst three of them actually died; which some
of the natives attributed to an unwholesome quality in the flesh of white men;
and others to the gods of the foreigners avenging their death. Generally
speaking, cannibalism only found favour amongst a few young warriors, who were
anxious to imitate the Figians in their fierce and warlike spirit: and the
Reverence to the gods, the chiefs, and aged people, constituted a portion of their moral duties, when in a heathen state. Their women always occupy a distinguished place amongst them, and are as important in the social scale as the men. Nobility always descends by the female line; and some of the highest offices and dignities in connection with the tui-tonga have been held by sisters or aunts of the royal family.
The tui-tonga is a sort of mysterious and sacred personage, who is considered as highly favoured by the gods, and holding intercourse with them. The office of tui-tonga is hereditary, descending to female as well as male descendants. So high is the rank of tui-tonga, that it takes the precedence of the king on all public occasions.
The ranks of society amongst them are, the king, chiefs, matabooles, and tooas;
the tamaioeikis, or slaves, having been made free since the introduction of
Christianity. There were some individuals connected with the heathen priesthood
who were considered superior in rank to the kings themselves, and to whom the
kings paid homage. These persons were looked upon as sacred, and were regarded
as having had much to do with the gods. The matabooles rank next to the chiefs,
and are a sort of honourable attendants on them—their companions, counsellors,
and advisers. They see that the orders and wishes of their chiefs are duly
executed, and may not improperly be called their ministers. They are always
looked up to as men of experience
In the mythology of Tonga there were four principal gods, viz., Maui, who drew
the islands out of the sea with a hook and line—Hikuleo, the god of spirits, and
the younger brother of Maui, who lives in Bulotu or Hades, which he governs. He
is a saucy god, and takes away the people to Bulotu. When his body goes about,
his tail, which is very large, stays at home and watches. To prevent his
destroying all the inhabitants of the world, he is kept in check by two of his
brothers; a strong cord is fastened around him, one end of which is held by Maui
under the earth, the other by Tangaloa in the sky. To him the spirits of the
chiefs and matabooles go, become his servants, and are forced to do his will,
and to serve him for whatever purpose he pleases. He even uses them, it is said,
to make fences of, or to form bars for his gates. Tangaloa, who resides in the
sky, sends forth the thunder and lightning, and is the god of carpenters, whose
calling is held as the most honourable of any in the
They say there are several "bulotos," or places of departed spirits, and that the spirits of the chiefs and superior personages are admitted to that for which they are prepared by their conduct in this world. In one of the bulotus they eat the pink yam; but in all of them there are plenty of yams, and an abundance of wives.
Whilst the Figians extend the doctrine of immortality not only to all mankind, but to the animal and vegetable kingdom, and to stones and mineral substances, the Tonguese limit it to chiefs, matabooles, and, at furthest, to tooas. The souls of inferior persons are not supposed to have a conscious existence hereafter.
Formerly, children were frequently strangled by order of the heathen priests, to
pacify the anger of their gods. Mariner gives the following account of one of
these cruel sacrifices, consequent upon a chief having killed an enemy within
the sacred precincts of a consecrated enclosure, and thereby given great offence
to the gods. He says, "The priests, being inspired, said it was necessary a
child should be strangled, to appease the anger of the gods. The chiefs hold a
consultation, and came to the determination of sacrificing a child of Toobo Toa,
by one of his female attendants. Toobo Toa was present, and gave his consent
that his child (about two years old) should be immolated, to turn aside the
vengeance of the gods for the sacrilege committed. The child was accordingly
sought for; but its mother, thinking her child might be demanded, had concealed
it. Being at length found by one of the
The preparation of gnatoo, or tappa-cloth, from the inner bark of the
paper-mulberry tree, occupies much of the time of the Tongan women. The bark,
after being soaked in water, is beaten out by means of wooden mallets, which are
grooved longitudinally. All parties who visit Tonga speak of the singular noise
of tappa-beating arising from the
In their wrestling and boxing matches the Tongans display great dexterity and power; and in these, as in all their other games and athletic exercises, they exhibit the utmost forbearance and goodhumour.
Their dances are accompanied by songs and music from various instruments, amongst which is a sort of flute, blown by the nose. Their night dances are very similar to those of the Samoans; and their songs are mostly descriptive of scenery or past events, often partaking of the witty and ludicrous. They have a great variety of games, such as throwing the spear, cup and ball, pitching beans at a centre, &c.
When Captain Cook first visited Tongatabu, in 1773, he found it highly
cultivated, and with good broad roads intersecting the island in every
direction. So much gratified was he at the pleasant and agreeable reception
experienced by himself, officers, and crew, from the natives, that he designated
the entire group by the name of the
From the period of Mariner's sojourn until about the year 1826, the political history of the Tonga islands appears to have been one of struggles for power on the part of different chiefs. At that time, the influence the missionaries were beginning to exercise over the minds of the people, produced in an unexpected way the re-establishment of the dignity of tui-kanukubolu, or supreme ruler; and the sovereign authority of the entire group was again, as formerly, vested in the hands of a single individual. The heathen portion of the community in Tongatabu were, however, disaffected to the government of the king, who had joined the Christian party; and a desultory warfare was carried on amongst them for some years.
An unfortunate interference in favour of the Christians took place in 1840, on
the part of Commander Croker, of H.M.S. "Favourite." Captain Erskine, who
visited Tonga ten years afterwards, says, "Urged by hibiscus and jasmine, as well as the wild pea, and other creepers, and
limiting our view to a few yards on either side of the level path. An hour's
walk took us to the village, which is surrounded by a ditch, nearly dry, of
about twelve feet wide, and protected by a mud wall of the same thickness, and
fifteen feet in height. This wall is pierced by loopholes for musketry, made of
hollow wooden pipes, and is strengthened internally by trunks of cocoa-nut
trees, driven firmly into the ground, the whole being surmounted by a high reed
fence. The gate by which we entered is in about the centre of the eastern face,
and is defended by a
The first attempt to introduce Christianity into the
The present king of these islands,
Captain Erskine gives the following interesting description of his visit to King
George at the island of Lifuka, the scene of the magnificent entertainment given
by Finau to Captain Cook. He says, "One or two very large canoe sheds on the
dazzling white beach betoken the sites of villages; the vegetation being in
general so dense as to conceal the houses, which are situated at some little
distance from the sea. On landing near the village off which we had anchored,
and walking to the king's residence, called Mua, a distance of a mile or two, we
were astonished with the richness of the country, cultivated like a large
garden. The broad pathway, admirably kept, is bordered by the 'ti' plant and
other evergreens, regularly planted, whilst behind them are seen the
provision-grounds of bread-fruit and bananas. On nearing the village, we found
these enclosed with reed fences, the 'malai,' or large space surrounding the
chapel and common-house being alone left open. None of the natives had been
encouraged to come
A short distance to the southward of Vavau is the small island of Hoonga,
celebrated for a peculiar cavern, the entrance to which is some feet beneath the
surface of the sea, even at low water. This submarine cave was first discovered
by a young chief as he was diving after a turtle; and the traditionary tale the
natives give in connection with it has furnished some of the incidents
interwoven in Lord Byron's poem of "
The legend of the cave of Hoonga runs thus: Once upon a time a cruel chief
governed in Vavau; and at length some other chief raised up an insurrection
against him; his plot was however discovered, and he was condemned to be
massacred with all his family. His daughter, a beautiful girl, was beloved by
the young chieftain who had a short time before discovered the cavern, which
discovery he had kept a profound secret. He effected her escape through the
woods at night, and conducted her to a small canoe at a lonely part of the
beach. Here they embarked, and soon reached the rock of Hoonga, where he leaped
into the water, and instructing her to follow him, they both rose into the
To the eastward of the
Captain Erskine, who visited Niue, or
Missionary efforts have, of late, been wonderfully successful in Niue. As a
contrast to the state of the inhabitants not many years since, we would quote
from the account given of them by the Rev. Mr. Lawes, who, with his wife, is
stationed there. He says, "On reaching our destination, the people were ready to
smother us with kindness; they thronged around us with every demonstration of
gratitude and joy, and it was with difficulty we could make our way through the
crowd. As soon as the excitement of landing had subsided a little, a joyful
sound broke upon our ears in the stillness of the evening hour. It was the voice
of prayer and praise ascending from around the
This beautiful and fertile group is situated to the
north-north-east of the
The eastern portion of the Samoa group was discovered by Bougainville in 1768, who bestowed on these islands the name of "the Navigators," on account of the skill displayed by the inhabitants in the management of their canoes.
In 1787 the unfortunate La Perouse visited the island of Tutuila in this group, where M. de Langle, his second officer, together with eleven others, were massacred at Leone Bay, on the northern side of the island.
The Samoas consist of eight islands:—Manua, Orosenga, Ofu, Tutuila, Opolu, Manono, Aborima, and Savaii. On sailing west, the first island of the chain that makes its appearance is Manua; it is circular, and so lofty as to be visible at a distance of forty or fifty miles. Orosenga and Ofu are small islands of but little importance. Next comes the beautiful and romantic Tutuila, about fifty miles west of Orosenga; it is about ninety miles in circumference, and has two good harbours, that of Pango-pango, and Leone Bay, where ships of any burden may anchor in safety.
Opolu, the next island of the group, is in circumference between 150 and 200 miles. The mountains here are very high, and clothed with verdure to their summits. One of its harbours, that of Apia, is spacious, safe, and commodious. Manono is attached by a reef to the south-west extremity of Opolu; it is about five miles in circumference, and is thickly populated; its inhabitants having a kind of political superiority over all the other Samoan islands.
Aborima is about two miles in extent, from 200 to 300 feet high, and lies half way between Manono and Savaii. It appears to be an extinct crater, being precipitous and inaccessible all round, except at one opening, with a deep hollow in the middle. The people of Manono, to whom it is subject, use it in time of war as a sort of fortress, and as a retreat for their families and property. The entrance is guarded with tripping lines, so that men stationed on the rocks on either side could easily overturn all canoes that attempted to pass. "Barren and sterile as are the sides of the rocks, a very different appearance is presented, when you arrive opposite to the point where the crater has emptied itself. Here the whole of the interior opens at once to view, and anything more beautiful or unique I never beheld. The island is a basin, most regularly scooped out, and ascending with a gentle slope from the centre to the circumference; and, although on approaching it nothing meets the eye but sterile cliffs, when you catch a glimpse of the amphitheatre within, you discover there an impressive contrast to the dreariness and desolation without. Not a barren spot is to be seen, but one verdant mass of tropical vegetation, the whole of which, from the peculiar form of the island, presents itself at a single view, and fills the beholder with delight. If anything could enhance the beauty of the scene, it is the group of native dwellings, which, half revealed among the trees of cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and banana, form the settlement."
Savaii is the largest of the group, and the most
All the islands of the Samoan chain are lofty and volcanic; the mountains in Savaii attain an altitude of 3000 feet; and the group generally is fertile and beautiful in the extreme. The soil is exceedingly rich, and the islands are well watered, and abound with springs, lakes, and streams. The abundance of trees, bearing the usual nutritious fruits of tropical Polynesia, maintains the natives in plenty; which supply of food is further augmented by the great number of dogs, poultry, and hogs, of which latter it is stated La Pérouse purchased 500 at the period of his visit.
Since the year 1845, the village of Apia, on the island of Opolu, has been the residence of a British and an American consul, whose duty it is to look after the interests of the numerous vessels belonging to their respective nations, which visit the harbours of Opolu and Tutuila.
The United States exploring expedition, under Lieutenant Wilkes, visited and surveyed all the Samoan group in the year 1839.
The devoted
The population of the entire group is calculated not to exceed 37,000, at the present time, though formerly it appears to have been considerably greater. Opolu is estimated, with Manono, as having about 20,000 inhabitants; whilst the population of Savaii may be taken at 12,000; leaving the aggregate amount of 5000 for Tutuila and the Manua group.
These islands are subject to the diseases of ophthalmia and elephantiasis; and for several years past, during the wet season, a severe kind of influenza has occurred in the form of an epidemic; and hooping-cough has also been introduced.
This group, like others in the same parallel of latitude in the western Pacific, is subject to violent hurricanes, between the months of November and May, during which periods the trade-winds are sometimes suspended for two or three days at a time. These rotatory storms are called by the natives "afa fuli fao," or "knock-down winds." Earthquakes are also of frequent occurrence, but they do no injury to the elastic buildings of the country.
The romantic harbour of Pango-pango, in the island of Tutuila, is an ancient
crater, very deep, but completely land-locked by lofty mountains, under the
protection of which a vessel, with proper
There appears to be no principal chief exercising supreme authority over the entire group, as is the case in many other islands; every settlement is a sort of independent state, governed by its own petty chiefs, who often unite to oppose aggressions from more powerful neighbours.
Wars were formerly exceedingly frequent amongst them, and indeed have raged more
or less up to the
Mr. Williams says, that at the island of Aborima, the natural fortress of the people of Manono, "though ignorant of writing, they kept an account of the number of battles they had fought, by depositing a stone, of a peculiar form, in a basket, which was carefully fastened to the ridge-pole of a sacred house for that purpose. This was let down, and the stones were counted when I was there, and the number was one hundred and ninety-seven!"
The Samoans, although so frequently engaged in intestine wars and skirmishes of a
not very sanguinary character, are certainly less barbarous, and more tractable
than most of their Polynesian neighbours. Human sacrifices appear to have been
unknown amongst them, and Mr. Williams tells us, "that they were not addicted to
cannibalism, which they spoke of with just horror and detestation." On the other
hand, the Rev. Mr. Turner, in his "
The Samoans are a remarkably fine-looking race of people. They are very light
coloured; and the men are usually tattooed from the loins to the knees. This
tattooing of the body from the waist to the knee has all the appearance of a
pair of light breeches; and, with the narrow apron of dragon leaves, supplies
the place of dress in their estimation. Indeed, so perfect is the deception
that, in an account of these islands in 1772, the people were described as
"being clothed from the waist downwards with fringes, and long
hose made of a kind of silken stuff artificially wrought."
Their features are often beautiful, but the nose is somewhat flatter than with us; this is caused, however, by the mothers artificially pressing them when infants, with a view of improving their personal appearance, as all the Polynesians seem to have a repugnance to long and sharp noses.
Their dress is either the "lava-lava" of native cloth, similar to the tappa of
Tahiti, and which they gather round their waists in flowing folds like a Roman
toga, or the "titi," a picturesque sort of petticoat of the fresh leaves of the
dracæna or dragon-tree, which sets off their fine muscular
limbs to advantage. The women usually adopt, besides the "titi," a garment
called "tiputa," resembling a small poncho, with a slit for the head, hanging so
as decently to cover the bosom. The higher class also wear a white mat or
petticoat made from the fibres of the native cotton tree, and they decorate
their necks with beads, and their heads with a profusion of gay-coloured
flowers.
Unfortunately, amongst the converts, and especially those who are more immediately connected with the missionaries, hideous bonnets, of native manufacture, yet fashioned somewhat after the grotesque style of those worn in England thirty years ago, are adopted by the women, instead of the wreath of natural flowers formerly used, at once so elegant and simple. Indeed, articles of European clothing are now being rapidly introduced into many parts of Polynesia, and are worn by both sexes with absurd and unbecoming effect. In speaking of a mission service in Samoa, Mr. Hood says, "Wherever one's eyes turned they were sure to rest upon something most astounding in the way of bonnets. Under a huge coal-scuttle of native manufacture, built upon the most exaggerated scale of the fashion prevailing when Europeans first came to these islands, you saw the happy, contented-looking face of a girl, appearing as though she had been got up for a pantomime, who, in her native head-dress of a simple flower, would have been much more becomingly arrayed. Perhaps beside her sat her mother, who, with spectacles on her nose, pored over her book with an equally astonishing work of art overshadowing her shrunken figure. The bonnet is supposed to be the suitable costume for the Sunday, but with these people the idea is a mistaken one."
But few of the women are tattooed, though many of them adopt the practice of sengisengi, or spotting, which is effected by means of raising
small blisters on the skin with the burning tinder of native cloth.
The Samoans have the custom, not generally adopted in Polynesia, of purchasing
their wives; and sometimes as many as two hundred pigs, together with a quantity
of siapo or native cloth, is given for a comely damsel. The
system of their polygamy is to allow each wife to enjoy three days' supremacy in
rotation, and by this arrangement comparatively little quarrelling occurs
amongst them.
Their women are treated with great consideration, and their lives were always considered too valuable to be sacrificed on the death of their husbands, as was the case in some parts of Polynesia. When a chief dies, his widow is generally taken by his brother or some near relative.
Of the younger population seen at Tutuila, Captain Erskine, of H.M.S. "Havannah"
(who visited the Navigator's in 1850), says, "The girls were generally
good-humoured looking, but the inferiority of their beauty compared to that of
the men, is most striking, and cannot be accounted for, as in New Zealand, by
their being called upon to perform laborious and inferior duties, as they are
here held in much higher estimation. The manly beauty of the young men is very
remarkable: one, in particular, who accompanied us to-day, and had decked his
hair with the flowers of the scarlet hibiscus, might have sat
for an Antinous."
They are exceedingly fond of their children, often injudiciously so, permitting
them to eat whatever they like, and as much as they please. "On the whole," says
Mr. Hood, "a happier race of dracæna leaves, well oiled.
All the tattooing is visible, of course. On their heads they have full wigs of a
reddish colour, frizzed out, and made of their own hair, which every man, for a
certain period, allows to grow long, for the purpose of making these
head-dresses, which are worn in war and in the dance. Around their foreheads
both sexes twine strings of large ornaments made from the pearly nautilus, or
coronets of the flowers of the scarlet hibiscus, which
together look very handsome." Indeed, when the Samoan belles enter the dancing
circle in the full evening costume, with their shining pearly coronets and their
necklaces of red and yellow flowers, their appearance is really imposing. Some
wear mats of great value, beautifully plaited; whilst others display snowwhite
shaggy dresses of cotton-tree fibre, of the most ample proportions.
In matters of cleanliness and habits of decency these people carry their customs
to a higher point even than the most fastidious of civilized nations, although
they are not so far advanced in the useful
Their canoes are built of separate pieces of timber tied together, with the usual
outrigger, and the covered part or deck is ornamented with rows of white ovulum shells. Their larger canoes are hauled up on the
beaches beneath thatched sheds, to protect them from the sun.
These large canoes, in which they make voyages to the neighbouring islands, are capable of holding fourteen paddlers besides the helmsman, and are constructed, in addition to the floating outrigger, with a long spar projecting to windward, on which stands one of the crew as ballast, regulating his distance from the gunwale according to the strength of the breeze. The sail is of matting, narrow at the top and set between two masts. As they have no way of reefing, they are sometimes blown off the coast, and either perish or are picked up by some passing vessel.
A Samoan village is thus described by Captain Erskine: "Our approach to the
village of Fanga-saa was indicated by the provision-grounds, fenced with low
walls of broken coral, in which, interspersed with bread-fruit trees, were
growing bananas, yams, taro, and the kava pepper (Piper
mythisticum). A neatly-kept path led into the village, situated under the
shade of a cocoa-nut grove, and only a few yards' distance from the sea, on the
borders of which were seen their canoes and sheds. The houses stand at irregular
distances, and in no formal order; the path or street being, however, cleanly
swept, as is
In the missionary villages there are chapels of coral plastered with lime, and the dwellings of the missionaries are usually constructed of the same more durable material.
Although former voyagers who have come into contact with the Samoans described them as fierce and dishonest, and M. de la Pérouse spoke of them as a set of barbarous savages, later visitors to these islands give us a much more favourable account. Captain Erskine says that, on leaving Tutuila, "there was a general feeling of regret in parting with these people, who are certainly the most agreeable to deal with of any I have ever seen in a similar condition. That this has been owing, in great measure, to their communication with a good class of white men, and to the teachings of the missionaries, no person who reads the opinions of the first discoverers with respect to these islanders is likely to deny."
Captain Wilkes mentions that the massacre of
It is a matter of regret that this fine race has so little stimulus to steady industry. They lead an easy and happy life in the luxurious climate of the tropics, the lavish gifts of nature surrounding them on every side with all that they require in the shape of food and clothing. They could easily produce cocoa-nut oil to an almost unlimited extent, as well as cotton and arrowroot; and all descriptions of tropical produce might be grown in abundance on these fertile islands.
Their manner of extracting the oil from the cocoa-nut is of the simplest kind; they merely scoop out the kernels of the nuts, and, putting them into an old canoe perforated at the bottom, leave the oil to drip through into vessels placed beneath to receive it. The missionaries have obtained iron tanks in which to store up the oil, and several hundred pounds' worth of it have been contributed annually by the Samoans for sale on behalf of the missionary societies.
These islands lie between the parallels of 16° and 18° south
latitude, and the meridians of 148° and 154° west. They were so called in honour
of the
The name of "the
The Society Islands were discovered by Fernandez de Quiros in 1605; and were
subsequently visited by Wallis in 1767, by Bougainville in 1768, and by Cook in
1769. The latter navigator, on his second voyage, bringing away with him Omai, a
native of Raietea or Ulietea, one of the leeward group, and the first Polynesian
islander ever seen in Britain—who, being conveyed back on Cook's third voyage,
relapsed again into the barbarism and idolatry that then prevailed in his
country. In 1772 the viceroy of Peru sent two Spanish vessels to examine various
groups of islands in the eastern Pacific; this expedition visited Tahiti, from
whence two natives were taken to Lima, and instructed in the Christian religion
there. Two years afterwards another voyage was made from Peru to the Georgian
Islands; and these natives were sent back along with two missionary priests, for
whom a house was erected, and who were taken under the protection of the chiefs.
So gratified were the people of Tahiti with the visit of the Spaniards, that
they acknowledged by acclamation the King of Spain to be the
The Georgian group consists of five islands, besides several inconsiderable islets. These are Tahiti, Eimeo, Maitea, Maiaviti, and Tituaroa. Tahiti, which is the seat of the native government, as well as that of the French, since its subjugation by that power in 1846, is by far the most considerable island of the group, its circumference being variously estimated at from 110 to 130 miles. It is formed by two distinct mountains of great elevation, their peaks rising to a height of upwards of 7000 feet above the sea; these are connected by a low narrow isthmus of about three miles in width. The coasts are fringed by a coral reef from ten to twenty yards broad, at distances varying from a dozen yards to two miles from the shore.
The geological features of Tahiti present no remains of craters to indicate their
former existence, although traces of fire, and volcanie substances stratified,
broken, and thrown up in the wildest disorder, are everywhere to be met with.
The peaked central mountains are mostly composed of basalt; and the sides of the
raised valleys around the mountains are covered in many places with layers of
light earth, or strata of marl. The less elevated lands, which form a border all
round the island,
The capital of the island, and principal port of Tahiti, is Papiete, which town
exhibits the same combination of European houses and native dwellings as does
the capital of the
The climate of Tahiti is pleasant and agreeable. Though situated so far within
the tropics, the thermometer in summer ranges between 75° and 85° degrees,
seldom exceeding the latter temperature, as the trade-winds from the surrounding
ocean moderate the heat. The rainy season takes place when the sun is vertical,
but rain falls occasionally at all seasons; and although storms occur at times,
The population of Tahiti, although erroneously estimated at the time of Captain Cook's visit at upwards of 100,000, was computed by Captain Wilson, in 1797, after a careful enumeration, to amount to 16,000; probably, at the present period, there are not more than from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants. The introduction of European diseases and of ardent spirits, infanticide, and various causes arising out of the contact of the aboriginal race with white men, became so destructive in their effects, that at the time of the arrival of the missionaries the population had been fearfully reduced. The temperance movement, introduced by the missionaries at a later period, and headed by the queen and leading chiefs, had a beneficial influence in checking the use of ardent spirits, which was so rapidly demoralizing this interesting people.
One of the principal streams of the island flows along the valley of Tia-auru,
joining the sea near Point Yenus, at
"On every side were forests of banana; the fruit of which, though serving for
food in various ways, lay in heaps decaying on the ground. In front of us there
was an extensive brake of wild sugar-cane; and the stream was shaded by the
darkgreen knotted stem of the 'ava,' so famous, in former days, for its powerful
intoxicating effects. Close by was the arum, the roots of which, when well
baked, are good to eat, and the young leaves are better than spinach. There was
the wild yam, and a plant called 'ti,' which has a soft brown root, which in
The published accounts of the voyages of Wallis, Cook, and others to the South
Seas, and the visit of Omai, the
In the year 1796 the
Pomare, the King of Tahiti, and the first convert to Christianity, was born about
1774. He died in the year 1821, and was succeeded by his son, Pomare III., who
was crowned in 1824, being then only four years of age. Shortly afterwards, he
was placed at the
Mr. Darwin, who visited Tahiti shortly before it became occupied by the French, bears the following testimony to the good effects of missionary labour there. He says, "On the whole, it appears to me that the morality and religion of the inhabitants are highly creditable. There are many who attack both the missionaries, their system, and the effects produced by it. Such reasoners never compare the present state with that of the island only twenty years ago. They forget that human sacrifices, and the power of an idolatrous priesthood—a system of profligacy unparalleled in any other part of the world-infanticide, a consequence of that system—bloody wars, where the conquerors spared neither women nor children—that all these have been abolished; and that dishonesty, intemperance, and licentiousness, have been greatly reduced by the introduction of Christianity."
Mr. S. S. Hill, an American traveller, visiting Tahiti still more recently, remarks, " Anomalies the most anomalous, both physical and moral, strike the stranger in a particular manner in this island. A simple race of men, just turned from their idolatrous worship, and their degrading superstitions, by the efforts of one European people; checked in their progress by the conquest of their country by another European people; and exposed to an attempt to change their faith by means unworthy of the tolerant spirit of the conquerors as a nation, and, probably, even without the assent of their government—an isle, under European military rule, declared an independent kingdom under a necessary protectorate—a port, said to have been established for the refuge and protection of the ships of all nations, subjected to such regulations as to oblige even the very whalers of the protecting power, as it has happened, that formerly frequented it, to take shelter in other harbours in other islands—a population, composed of one of the finest races, physically speaking, found upon the face of the globe, sickening amidst the superabundance of the native productions of the soil, and in the healthiest of climates."
A letter, written by a person lately visiting Tahiti, says, "Tahiti is a lovely
place, and, without doubt, the gem of the Pacific. You can stroll for hours
through its beautiful orange groves, the delicious perfumes from which are
wafted on every breeze. The natives of the island, of both sexes, are much given
to dissipation. The stringent laws of the
Of the Tahitians themselves Mr. Darwin says, "I was pleased with nothing so much as with the inhabitants. There is a mildness in the expression of their countenances which at once banishes the idea of a savage; and an intelligence which shows that they are advancing in civilization. Most of the men are tattooed, and the ornaments follow the curvature of the body so gracefully that they have a very elegant effect. One common pattern, varying in its details, is somewhat like the crown of a palmtree. It springs from the central line of the back, and gracefully curls round both sides. The women are tattooed in the same manner as the men, and very commonly on their fingers. They wear a white or scarlet flower in the back of the hair, or through a small hole in each ear; and a crown of woven cocoa-nut leaves is also worn as a shade for the eyes."
The Tahitians and the inhabitants of the
At the time of their birth the complexion of Tahitian infants is but little, if any, darker than that of European children, and the skin only assumes the bronze hue as they grow up under constant exposure to the sun. Those parts of the body that are covered with their tappa dresses are, through every period of life, much lighter than those that are exposed; and, notwithstanding the dark tint with which the climate appears to dye their skin, the ruddy bloom of health and vigour, or the sudden blush, is often seen mantling the youthful countenance under the light brown tinge which but partially conceals its glowing hue.
The dress of the two sexes is nearly the same; except that the men wear the
"maro," a piece of tappa cloth which covers the loins, and passes between the
limbs; another oblong piece, with a hole to let the head through, hangs before
and
Tattooing was formerly practised, not merely for the sake of ornament, but as connected with the political and religious institutions of the people. The different stages of this operation were regarded as sacrifices agreeable to the gods; and the instruments with which a prince had been tattooed were deposited in the "morai," or tomb of his ancestors.
Their dwellings are only used as places of rest during the night, and of retreat during the extreme heat of the day. They are very elegantly shaped huts, consisting of small wooden pillars, arranged in an oval form, and supporting a roof of palm leaves. The sides are sometimes covered with mats, and sometimes open, according to the state of the weather. The floor is strewed over with dried grass, upon which are laid mats of beautiful workmanship. These rustic dwellings are scattered about in the valleys, and upon the plains, in a manner the most agreeable and picturesque, in the midst of smiling plantations, or groves of palms, bananas, or bread-fruit trees.
The most prominent feature in the Tahitian character appears to be their love of
indolence, in which the too great bounty of nature has permitted them to
indulge. They appear to have been hitherto an exception to that common law of
nature, which has seemed everywhere else to have imposed toil in a greater or
less degree upon all men. Their magnificent valleys abound not alone in
luxuriant forests that attract and charm the eye, but also in trees
They make use of their mountain streams by constructing weirs across them, at spots where the valleys between the steep sides of the hills enlarge. The water thus collected they admit into their "taro" plantations, by means of which system of irrigation the taro produces large tuberous roots.
The natives of Tahiti, both men and women, are scrupulously clean: they wash their bodies in running water three times a day; once in the morning when they rise, once at noon, and again before they sleep. Their clothes, as well as their persons, are kept without spot or stain; so that in a large company nothing is suffered but the heat, which, perhaps, is more than can be said of an assembly of Europeans.
Their war canoes in former times, as described by Cook, were double vessels
fastened together side by side, at the distance of about three feet, by strong
poles of wood, which were laid across them, and lashed to the gunwales. They
varied in length, some measuring upwards of seventy feet, while their breadth
was
The costumes formerly worn by the women of the
Cooking and eating occupy but a small portion of
That singular institution called the Barringtonia. Their entertainments consisted in delivering
speeches ludicrously referring to public events, in pantomimic exhibitions, in
wrestling, and in dancing during the night to the music of the flute and drum.
In the constant display of these often obscene exhibitions, they passed their
lives, strolling from one place or island to another. There were several
distinct ranks amongst the Areöis, which were distinguished by the various
styles of tattooing on their bodies. The society was not confined to the male
sex, but numbered many female members, who attached themselves to this
dissipated and wandering fraternity. One of the standing regulations of the
society was the murder of any children that might be born to them; the gods of
the Areöis, living in celibacy themselves, were supposed to forbid their
followers to have any descendants. A number of singular ceremonies were
performed at the death of an Areöi; and those of the higher class were supposed
to attain after death
The highest ambition of a Tahitian was to have a splendid "moräi," or family
tomb; and their funerals were of a solemn and affecting character. Songs of a
plaintive nature were sung, and the mourners, with sharks' teeth, drew blood
from their bodies, which mingled with their tears; offerings placed on the bier,
mock fights, fastings, and numerous religious ceremonies were all employed to
give a sensible expression of their grief. The sacred sheds, under
Captain Cook, in his first voyage, thus describes a moral which he visited in
Tahiti: "It was a pile of stone-work raised pyramidically upon an oblong base or
square, 267 feet long and 87 wide. It was built like the small pyramidal mounds
upon which we sometimes fix the pillar of a sun-dial, where each side is a
flight of steps; the steps, however, at the sides were broader than those at the
ends; so that it terminated not in a square of the same figure with the base,
but in a ridge, like the roof of a house. There were eleven of these steps, each
of which was four feet high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet.
Each step was formed of one course of white coral stone, which was neatly
squared and polished, some of the blocks measuring three feet and a half by two
and a half. The whole of this pyramid formed part of one side of a spacious
square, which was walled in with stone, and paved with flat stones throughout
its whole extent, notwithstanding which there were growing in it several of the
trees they call "etoa," and plantains. About one hundred yards west of this
building was anothor paved court, in which were several small stages raised on
wooden pillars about seven feet high, and which seemed to be a kind of altar, as
upon these
On one occasion, as Captain Cook and his partywere rambling in the "Tiarabu" district, they came upon a basket-work image of one of the Tahitian gods, that of Mauwe, their great ancestor, which is thus described: "It was something more than seven feet high, and rather bulky in proportion. The wicker skeleton was completely covered with feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black in the parts which it is their custom to stain or 'tattoo,' and upon the head, where there was to be a representation of hair. On the head were also four protuberances, three in front and one behind, which we should have called horns, but which the natives dignified with the name of 'tate ete,' 'little men.' "
The king and his consort formerly always appeared in public on men's shoulders,
and travelled in this manner whenever they journeyed by land. They were seated
on the neck or shoulders of their bearers, who were generally stout, athletic
men. The persons of these bearers, in consequence of their office, were regarded
as sacred. The individuals thus elevated appeared to sit with ease and security,
holding slightly by the head, while their feet hung down on the breast, and were
clasped in the arms of the bearer. When they travelled they proceeded at a
tolerably rapid pace, frequently six miles an hour. A number of attendants ran
by the side of the bearers, or followed in their train; and
The present queen of Tahiti is described by Darwin as being "a large awkward woman, without any beauty, grace, or dignity. She has only one royal attribute-a perfect immoveability of expression under all circumstances, and that a rather sullen one."
Ten miles west from Tahiti is the beautiful and picturesque island of Eimeo,
which is about forty miles in circumference, wild and mountainous, but with a
fair proportion of level land and magnificent scenery. It has a population of
about 900 souls. It is here that the
The other islands of the Georgian group are but thinly inhabited, and present no features of peculiar interest.
The western group, or
The surfaces of all these islands are uneven and hilly, and in some parts extremely rugged and mountainous; the hills are finely wooded, and the low lands exceedingly fertile. Like the Georgian group they are of volcanic origin, displaying extinct craters. Borabora has in its center a lofty, double-peaked volcanic mountain, which, however, is not active at the present time. The scenery of these islands generally much resembles that of Tahiti and Eimeo, being romantic and beautiful in the extreme, with mountain peaks towering into the sky, and fertile valleys and ravines, with neat villages nestling beneath groves of bread-fruit or cocoa-nut trees.
In the Society Islands are many copious springs of cool and limpid water: one of
these, in the island of Raiatea, is compared by Forster (who accompanied Captain
Cook) to the "fons blandusiæ" of Horace. He says, "The natives
had enlarged it to a fine reservoir, surrounded by large stones in a rustic
manner. Groups of the finest trees and flowering shrubs, together with the
venerable and impending rocks, from whence the water issued, involved it in a
constant shade, and preserved a delicious coolness. The crystal stream
constantly running from this reservoir, beneath the verdure of the trees,
invited the traveller in these hot regions to a refreshing ablution of his weary
limbs, from which he rose with new vigour to support the sultriness of the
climate."
The idolatry which obtained in these islands was similar to that of Tahiti, but was more zealously maintained, as Raiatea was supposed to be the cradle of their mythology. The destruction of idolatry in Tahiti, in 1815, was followed, a year or two afterwards, by the same change in Huahine, Raiatea, and Borabora; not, however, without much opposition, the lives even of the missionaries being frequently endangered by the contests and revolutions which agitated the country. The inhabitants of Tahaa, strongly attached to their ancient heathen worship, opposed the introduction of Christianity, and even went to war with the King of Raiatea because he had agreed to renounce idolatry. They were, however, defeated, and their king taken prisoner by the Raiateans, who, instead of putting him and his people to death, treated them with kindness, which had the effect of inducing them all to embrace the new religion.
Since 1817 the missionaries have been remarkably successful in educating the people, who are now all Christians, and many have gone to other islands, or are labouring in their own, as Christian teachers. Commodious churches and good school-houses have been erected; and a great change in their moral character, habits, dress, and mode of life has taken place amongst this interesting people.
They have been taught to build comfortable houses, and to manufacture furniture;
and are described as a social, cheerful, and busy-moving community. Many engage
in ship-building, unaided by Europeans, forging their own bolts, and performing
In 1829 the British government officially recognized this flag as the national
ensign of the whole of the
A regular code of laws, respecting the due administration of justice, was solemnly enacted by the national assembly of Huahine in 1822; and, subsequently, similar laws and regulations have been established at the other islands of the group. A British consul resides at Raiatea; and a number of vessels, traders and whale ships, visit these islands annually.
The advance of the people in intelligence, civilization, and outward prosperity
has, unfortunately, been retarded by the disturbance and civil war in which the
whole of this western or leeward portion of the islands has been involved—the
prevalence of epidemic diseases—and the injurious conduct of foreigners in
promoting intemperance and vice amongst the inhabitants. To these evils must be
added the disorganization produced by the proceedings of the French at Tahiti,
and their forcible seizure of Huahine; from which they were expelled
The present population is about 8,000.
It is a remarkable fact that the tides in the
The Paumotu Archipelago, or "
The principal islands of the Paumotu group are Anaa, or
The people of the Paumotu group are described as a fine athletic race, darker in
colour than the
The island of Anaa was formerly the principal seat of power; the natives of which
frequently waged war on the other islands, and succeeded in conquering all to
the westward of
The Hervey, or
The Hervey Islands are of different structure, Rarotonga being volcanic and mountainous, surrounded by a reef of coral. Others consist of ancient coral formations raised from twenty to two hundred feet above the sea, some of them lower, and all surrounded by living coral reefs. Most of the islands are fertile, and capable of supporting a much larger population than they at present possess. The inhabitants in general character and language much resemble the Samoans.
Makea, the King of Rarotonga, is described as being "a handsome man, six feet high, and very stout; of noble appearance, and very commanding aspect; his complexion light, and his body most beautifully tattooed, and slightly coloured with a preparation of turmeric and ginger, which gives it a light orange tint."
At the time of Mr. Williams first visiting Rarotonga the inhabitants were
heathen; their idols and modes of worship corresponding with those of Tahiti:
their government was a sort of feudalism; they were addicted to cruel wars; and
were reputed to be cannibals. Their history is the history of the introduction
and influence of Christianity; their
Rarotonga, the principal island of the group, with its encircling reef, is about thirty-five miles in cir cumference, the highest mountains being about 4000 feet above the sea. There are openings in the reef, but no secure harbour for shipping. The island is well watered and fertile, yielding the bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, banana, taro, and other Polynesian productions.
The population of Rarotonga is estimated at from 6000 to 7000. The ferocity and
barbarism of the inhabitants was such that, when the first native missionaries
were left amongst them, in 1823, they were obliged, after a short residence, to
quit the island, one only venturing to remain. In 1827 the first European
missionaries arrived; and although their efforts were for some time opposed by
the people, they eventually succeeded in spreading Christianity amongst them;
until, in a few years, the whole island became an educated, industrious, and
civilized Christian community, increasing in intelligence and comforts as their
industry in raising supplies brought ships in considerable numbers for
refreshments; and the returns enabled them to provide European clothing, books,
and many of the comforts of civilized life. At the present time, a large
proportion of the people are clothed in European apparel, and dwell in
comfortable houses, many
They have at their respective mission stations spacious and substantial stone
chapels, well built,
This fine island has been repeatedly visited by hurricanes and the ravages of
epidemic disease, which, with other causes, have greatly diminished the
population, and retarded the progress of the people. The late Mr. Williams, who
so wisely and successfully instructed these people in civilization and
Christianity at the same time, felt a great attachment for Rarotonga, where he
so long laboured; he built his missionary ship, the "
Hervey's Island consists in reality of two small islands; and was named by Captain Cook in honour of Captain Hervey, R.N., one of the Lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of Bristol. It is surrounded by a reef, through which there is no entrance. At the period of the visit of Mr. Williams, in 1823, it was found that, in consequence of the exterminating wars of the inhabitants, the population had been reduced to about sixty souls; and on a subsequent visit, six or seven years later, the miserable remnant of this people amounted only to five men, three women, and a few children.
Mangaia is from twenty to twenty-five miles in circumference, of ancient coral
formation, and
Aitutaki is hilly rather than mountainous, with rich and varied landscapes. It is eighteen miles in circumference, and is surrounded by a reef, having a good boat entrance. The population is about 2000.
Atiu, about the same size as Aitutaki, is a beautiful, verdant island, called by Captain Cook "Wateoo." The inhabitants number 2000. There are superb caverns of vast extent in the coral limestone of Atiu.
Mauke is a small, low, fertile island, fifteen miles Tound. By an invasion of a large fleet of canoes from one of the neighbouring islands, its once considerable population was reduced by the dreadful massacre that ensued to about 300, which has since increased. This island was first discovered by Messrs. Williams and Bourne, in 1823.
Mitiaro is a smaller island, very low, and somewhat similar to the preceding one; but the soil is so scanty that its productions ofttimes fail. Famine and invasion had, before the introduction of Christianity, almost depopulated it. It lies about twenty miles north-west of Mauke. Occasional hurricanes of a severe character sweep over these islands, doing much damage to the plantations and dwellings of the inhabitants.
Missionaries now reside on all the Hervey Islands; and the people are completely
Christianized, maintaining their own institutions, and aiding liberally in
extending the knowledge of Christianity to others. l. per annum.
The inhabitants of the Hervey group, and of the island of Mangaia especially, are remarkable for the ingenuity they display in their various manufactures. Their canoes are large and beautifully carved; their "tappa" cloth displays a variety of elegant patterns; whilst their spears, bowls, and other articles, and, more particularly, the handles of their stone adzes, are elaborately carved, with a regularity, taste, and beauty, which is surprising, when it is to be remembered that the only tools they formerly possessed were sharks' teeth and shells. Their cocoa-nut drinking-cups are covered with carved and painted figures, and frequently with passages of Scripture beautifully executed.
The Hervey Islanders have a method of smokedrying the flying-fish, by which they can preserve them for any length of time. They also carry on fisheries by torchlight, along the back of the reefs, whither they proceed with double canoes. The fish, being frightened by the hollow sound of the headsman stamping on the box of the canoe, as well as by the splashing of the oars, and at the same time dazzled by the torches, are thus easily captured in large ring-nets fastened to poles ten or fifteen feet long.
Cattle introduced by the missionaries have
The following account of the mission settlement at Ararongi, in the island of
Rarotonga, from the pen of Mr. Williams, will convey a good idea of the stations
generally in that beautiful island:—"The site of Ararongi was an extensive plot
of flat land, stretching from the sea to the mountains. The houses stood several
hundred yards from the beach, and were protected from the glare of the sea by
the rich foliage of rows of large Barringtonia and other trees
which girt the shore. The settlement was about a mile in length, and perfectly
straight, with a wide road down the middle, on either side of which were rows of
the tufted-top 'ti' tree, whose delicate and beautiful blossoms, hanging beneath
their plume-crested tops, afforded an agreeable shade, and rendered the walks
delightful. The cottages of the natives were built in regular lines, about fifty
yards from the border of this broad pathway, and about the same distance from
each other. The chapel and school-house stand in the centre of the settlement;
and by their prominence both in size and situation, the natives would appear to
express the high value they attach to the means of religious instruction. Every
house has doors and Venetian windows, which are painted partly with lamp black,
procured from the candlenut, and partly with red ochre and other preparations.
The contrast between these and the snowy whiteness of the coral-lime gives the
whole a chaste
When Captain Lord Byron visited Mauke, in H.M.S. "Blonde," he was much struck
with the wonderful improvement that had already taken place amongst the
inhabitants of that lately discovered and fertile island. He thus describes his
visit to the houses and chapel of the native Tahitian missionaries located
there:—"The road was rough over the fragments of coral; but it wound agreeably
through the grove, which improved in beauty as we advanced; and at length, to
our surprise and pleasure, terminated in a beautiful green lawn, where were two
of the prettiest whitewashed cottages imaginable—the dwellings of the native
teachers. The inside of these dwellings corresponded with their exterior
neatness. The floors were boarded; there were a sofa and some chairs of native
workmanship; windows, with Venetian shutters, rendered the apartments cool and
agreeable. The rooms were divided from each other by screens of 'tapa,' and the
floor was covered with coloured varnished 'tapa,' resembling oil-cloth. We were
exceedingly struck with the appearance of cleanliness and elegance all around
us, as well as with the
The Austral Islands lie to the south of the
Rurutu is about seven miles in length, having a
The principal anchorage is in a beautiful crescentshaped bay, where the natives
have erected a substantial pier, a quarter of a mile in length, constructed of
blocks of coral, which affords a convenient landingplace. The plants, shrubs,
and trees, are very similar to those of Tahiti. Around the foot of the mountains
is a plain, about a quarter of a mile in breadth, which consists of a coral
formation, well covered with earth washed from the flanks of the adjacent
eminences, which has gradually constituted a soil teeming with luxuriant
vegetation. Large coral masses rise here and there abruptly, in some instances
to the height of more than 200 feet above the beach. In the sides of these
cliffs are many caverns, richly adorned with stalactites, in which multitudes of
sea-fowl build and rear their young. The following account of this charming
island is given by Mr. Montgomery, in his narrative of the voyage of Messrs.
Tyerman and Bennett:—"The principal village is situated at the head of the bay,
consisting of the chapel and from sixty to seventy houses, scattered at pleasant
distances among the trees. These are pretty oval structures, built on platforms
of broad stones. The materials are timber and bamboos, very ingeniously put
together, rounded at either end, having roofs which present the cove of a Gothic
arched ceiling within. They are often fancifully ornamented, both externally and
The introduction of Christianity into Rurutu in 1821 was effected in a remarkable
manner by native agency. During the ravages of the epidemic, Auura, the
principal chief, with his wife, and a certain number of their dependants,
embarked in a double canoe, and left the island, to search for happier shores,
where they might find refuge from the pestilence, or obtain help and deliverance
for their countrymen. After a voyage of several days they reached Tubuai, an
island belonging to the Austral group, about 100 miles from Rurutu. Here they
were hospitably entertained; and, having refreshed themselves during a short
sojourn, they reembarked for their own island, with the intention of persuading
their countrymen to emigrate to Tubuai.
The gods of Rurutu were afterwards sent by the chief Auura to Raiatea, as
trophies of the victory of Christianity over paganism. According to an account
of them by an eye-witness, " One, in particular, 'Aa,' the national god of
Rurutu, excited considerable interest; for, in addition to his being bedecked
with little gods outside, a door was discovered at his back, on opening which he
was found to be full of small gods; and no less than twenty-four were taken out,
one after another, and exhibited to public view. This image was said to
represent their
Christian missions have been most successful in the
This cluster of islands consists of two groups, named
respectively the
The Marquesas lie 900 miles to the north-east of the
Missionary labours appear to have been attended with but little success in the
Marquesas. In the year 1797 Captain Wilson, who commanded the Ship "Duff,"
belonging to the
The French nation then took possession of the Marquesan group, and some Roman
Catholic missionaries were placed there, but with what result is not known.
Within the last few years some missionaries from the American church, with
native assistants, have gone from the
Although the Marquesas are regarded as a French dependency, having formally been taken possession of by that power, but little has hitherto been done in the way of colonization, or developing the resources of these islands. The military establishment of the French at Nukahiva has latterly been abandoned, according to accounts from Tahiti; and the Marquesans still remain far behind most of the inhabitants of the other islands of the eastern Pacific in their acquaintance with Christianity and civilization.
The population of this group has been variously estimated; but it probably does not altogether exceed from 20,000 to 30,000 at the present time.
Nukahiva, and several of the other islands, are frequently touched at by British,
French, and American vessels engaged in the
The island of Nukahiva is not only more extensive than the rest, but of greater
fertility. It is divided, by the natural boundaries of almost inaccessible
mountain ridges or spurs sloping to the sea, into several districts or valleys,
each containing from 1500 to 2000 people, with an hereditary king or chief
attached to each. These tribes are frequently at war with each other, but seldom
come to a sanguinary battle; although the mode of warfare they adopt is
productive of greater calamity than the loss even of a few slain, for they go by
night into the enemy's district, and destroy the bark from every bread-fruit
tree they meet with. As the bread-fruit, when thus treated, will not again bear
The earliest accounts we have of the Marquesans are from the Spaniards. In July, 1595, Mendāna discovered the island of Fetouiva or Magdalena. Of the natives he says, "These islanders were in colour almost white: they had long hair, which some suffered to hang loose, and others gathered in a knot at the top of the head. Their faces and bodies were marked with representations of fish, and with various other devices, which were painted or wrought into their skins, of a blue colour: they were of good stature, and so well shaped, that in person they had much the advantage of ourselves. They had fine teeth and eyes, and good countenances: their voices were strong; but their manners gentle." All the Spanish accounts are diffuse in praise of the beauty of the natives of Magdalena, and particularly of the children, who were entirely naked. Of these, Figueroa says, "There came, among others, two lads paddling their canoe, whose eyes were fixed upon the ship; they had beautiful faces, and the most promising animation of countenance; and were in all things so becoming that the captain affirmed nothing in his life ever caused him so much regret as the leaving such beautiful creatures to be lost in that country."
Although the Marquesans are described by some voyagers as ferocious cannibals,
and constantly engaged in barbarous wars, to their earliest English visitors
they appeared hospitable and gentle; and
The Marquesans are perhaps the finest race throughout Polynesia. Both men and
women are remarkably beautiful, in symmetry of form and gracefulness of movement
surpassing all others in the Pacific; so much so, that they would not, it is
asserted, lose by a comparison with the most perfect models of ancient
sculpture. Their complexion generally is so fair as to be but little darker than
that of Europeans; but it is visible only in the youths, for the custom of
tattooing is carried to such a pitch amongst them that the skin of an adult
Marquesan becomes the mere canvas, as it were, of a picture. This operation
begins at the age of twelve or thirteen, but it is not till they attain thirty
or thirty-five that their persons are entirely covered. The tattooing is,
nevertheless, remarkable for its regularity and good taste. Some of the women
are as fair as an English brunette, with the rosy tint showing in their cheeks,
and are less generally tattooed than the men. Mendāna describes them as being
"dressed in elegant robes made of bark, which reached from the breast to the
calf of the leg." These were their "tappa" cloth garments, which, in common with
most of the
They are excessively fond of ornaments, the men making theirs from sea shells, or
of a light wood, which, by the application of an earth, becomes beautifully
white. The women prefer flowers, which at all seasons of the year are to be
found in perfection. Whales' teeth, also, as in Figi, are held in great
estimation, and are worn by the chiefs suspended round their necks. Their other
ornaments consist of a kind of coronet, ingeniously made of light wood, on which
is fastened, by means of the rosin of the bread-fruit tree, small red berries. A
necklace is also worn of similar materials. Added
Their principal head-dress is a sort of broad fillet made of cocoa-nut fibre. In front is fixed a mother-of-pearl-shell, wrought into a circular shape; before that, another circular plate of tortoise-shell, finely perforated with curious figures; and in front, again, a still smaller rounded piece of mother-of-pearl, with a little disc of tortoise-shell in the centre. To this are fastened the tail feathers of cocks or tropic birds, which, when the fillet is tied on the head, stand upright; so that the whole makes a very elegant ornament.
Their amusements consist principally of dancing, swimming, and wrestling, throwing their wooden javelins, and slinging stones; in the whole of which they are great proficients. Their arms consist of clubs, carved and plain, which they harden to an extreme by burying them in the mud; spears, ten feet long, and slings made of grass, from which they throw stones a great distance, with considerable accuracy.
The Marquesans are very expert fishermen. They go out in their canoes, which are
long and narrow, having an outrigger and a projecting stage, on which the
steersman stands. In these they paddle through the surf of the reefs, and either
use long bamboo-rods and lines, from which a pearl imitation of a flying fish is
attached, for the capture of the bonito, dolphin, or albicore; or they use
hand-nets, the fisherman, in such cases, diving
Their houses are generally placed close to trees, which afford an agreeable shade. They have a high back wall, with a shed roof sloping down to the front, where there is a low wall or fence. They are thatched with cocoa-nut leaves, closely and thickly put on; whilst the inside of the walls is usually covered with a close matting. Two long poles or spars run the whole length of the house, near the back wall, about six feet apart from each other—the intervening space covered deeply with grass or leaves, and a fine mat over it. This is the bed for the household, the heads of the sleepers resting on one pole, the backs of their necks being supported on it, as on a wooden pillow; the feet or ankles resting on the other. The portion of the house in front of this long family bed, is used for domestic purposes, eating, mat-making, singing, and various evening amusements.
The "pahooa" or theatre, is generally constructed on some level spot, surrounded
by rising grassy banks. The surface is covered by a smooth
Lieutenant Shillibeer, who visited Nukahiva, in the year 1814, in H.M. frigate
"Briton," commanded by
The large island of New Caledonia, discovered by Captain Cook
on Ms second voyage in 1774, lies about 800 miles east from the coast of
Australia, and about 1000 miles north-west from the North
New Caledonia is more or less mountainous throughout, and scattered with timber and brushwood from the shore to its summits. The island is traversed by a central rocky ridge of considerable elevation, running through its whole length; this mountain chain becomes gradually higher towards the south-east, till it reaches an elevation of 4,300 feet above the level of the sea. The principal rocks are quartz, mica, steatite, green schorl, and granite. Specular iron ore is abundant, and the mountains contain rich metallic veins.
The shores consist generally of shell-sand mingled with particles of quartz. The soil of the plains is a black mould, which in some places is very fertile. The sides of the hills are composed of a yellow ochreous clay, richly spangled with mica. Quartz ranges form the higher peaks, in which large masses of mica of an intensely red or orange colour occur. Asbestos has also been met with, as well as blocks of hornstone, which is of a blackish-green colour, extremely hard, and full of small garnets.
It is surrounded on all sides with an extensive barrier reef of coral, which is
distant from the shore from two to twelve miles, having many openings
New Caledonia possesses several good harbours; more especially Balade, near the
north-east end of the island, and
Ten years ago, New Caledonia was taken possession of by the French, and a
permanent settlement founded there by that nation, the ostensible object of
which was to cultivate sugar and coffee. The establishment of a large military
and naval depot at Port de France, however, shows that the ultimate object of
the French government was to secure so important a strategic position in the
Pacific. Captain Hood, who visited Port de France in H.M.S. "Fawn," in 1862,
says of it, "A few years ago, this rather sterile shore resounded only with the
warcries and booming lalis of its wild aborigines. To day the
bugles rang out shrilly in the calm bright
There are other Roman Catholic missionary stations at Balade and Yenghen, in the
north, which
The bay of Port de France is surrounded by hills rising tier above tier, as they
recede towards the main ridge or backbone of the island. The lower country is
covered with coarse grass, and in parts timbered lightly with the
desolate-looking Melaleuca leucodendron, with its ragged and
tattered bark, and white stems often charred by fire. The casuarina, or she-oak, also grows in various parts of
the country, which, on the whole, is even less tropical-looking than the
generality of the opposite coast of Australia in the same latitude. In the
valleys the soil is good, and bananas, sugar-canes, yams, and taro seem to
thrive tolerably well in sheltered situations.
The bread-fruit of the northern part of this island is very similar to that of the Figis, but scarce; and the sides of some of the valleys are scattered with cocoa-nut trees; whilst many beautiful shrubs grow on the high grounds.
The expectation, at one time indulged in, that New Caledonia would prove an important woolproducing country, does not seem likely to be realized. The sheep suffer much from the larvæ deposited by large flies in the wool of the animal, which devour it alive, and also from the penetrating barbed seeds of the coarse grass.
The inhabitants of New Caledonia bear a considerable resemblance to the now
extinct aborigines of Tasmania. Their hair is crisp, nearly woolly, and
The New Caledonians in their moonlight dances wear a large mask, called a "momo," which consists of a hideous face, carved out of wood and painted black, to which are attached long masses of woolly human hair and feathers, whilst a sort of coarse network depends below, covering the wearer as far down as the knees.
Their houses resemble beehives with peaked roofs, and are ornamented on the top
with a post carved with grotesque images, and decorated with white "ovulum"
shells. The sides of their houses are of spars and reeds, and the roofs thatched
with dry grass; the entrance is a hole just big enough to admit a man bent
double; and a fire is generally kept burning inside the hut. They manufacture
earthen vessels, in which they boil roots and fish; these they paint with red
ochre and varnish with the gum of the dammara. Their canoes
are formed
Kunaie, or the araucarias which the
vegetation of its hill-tops displays‐lies twenty-eight miles south-east of New
Caledonia, the intervening sea being full of coral reefs of greater or less
extent. This island is forty-two miles in circumference, having many small
uninhabited islets in its vicinity, which are resorted to at times by fishermen.
The scenery of the
Being situated just within the southern tropic, the climate is not so warm as in
those islands further to the north. The mean temperature during the winter
months is about 65°, and in the summer season about 78°; although the changes
from heat
The inhabitants of the
The natives of the
The Loyalty Islands are situated to the south-westward of the New Hebrides, and east from New Caledonia, from which they are separated by a channel forty-five miles in width. These islands are four in number, and are amongst the more recent discoveries in the Pacific, having been very imperfectly known until they were visited and examined by Captain Erskine, in H.M.S. "Havannah" in 1849, although vessels from Sydney touched at them in search of sandal-wood in 1841.
The names of the
Uea consists of one large island, thirty miles in length, having three good ship
passages leading through the reefs into a large and beautiful bay, where there
is good anchorage for vessels. The south-eastern part of the island presents an
ironbound shore, with no soundings within 150 yards of the breakers. The west
side is low, thickly studded wtth cocoa-nut trees, having a beach of fine white
sand, running along the shore of the harbour. Uea is formed of coral limestone,
elevated in the
Lifu is about thirty-seven miles long, varying in breadth from ten to twenty miles. It has no harbour, but there is a large bay on the north-west side of the island, where indifferent anchorage may be obtained. Like the south-east part of Uea, the coast presents an iron-bound shore, with perpendicular cliffs of coral limestone, and no soundings within 150 yards of them. The elevation of Lifu is not more than 200 feet, being quite level, and wooded on the top. The soil is generally poor, except in the small spots of low land near the shore where the native villages are, on which are beautiful groves of cocoa-nut trees. The population of Lifu is estimated at about 3000. The inhabitants are divided into two hostile tribes, who are frequently at war with each other.
Mare, which was discovered by the sandal-wood traders in 1841, is twenty miles
long by ten wide. Its formation and general aspect is similar to that of the
other islands of the Loyalty group.
The climate of the
Owing to the discovery of an abundant supply of sandal-wood upon these islands, they attracted for several years a number of traders from the Australian colonies. The usual results, of vessels being plundered and their crews massacred by the natives, followed; though in many cases these outrages may be traced to a feeling of revenge for injuries inflicted on the inhabitants, by the reckless and undisciplined crews of these vessels. Samoan teachers have been labouring in Mare for some years; and the missionary efforts of the Melanesian mission are now being directed to the other islands of the group.
The natives of the
They may be described as being generally of a chocolate colour, although some are
much darker than others; the men go nearly naked, whilst the women wear a fringe
round the loins, somewhat similar to that of the New Caledonian females.
Their houses are usually of a conical form and good size, in the shape of a beehive; though occasionally they are built as an oblong square. A councilhouse in Uea is described as being ninety feet long by twenty in breadth; the roof having a double pitch, falling on each side of the ridge to eaves about four feet from the ground, well thatched with long grass, and perfectly water-tight. All strangers and visitors sleep in these council-houses.
Their canoes, although of a similar description to those of the pandanus leaves. Although clumsy in appearance, and poor sea boats,
the natives frequently perform voyages in them to New Caledonia. The war-canoes
carry from thirty-five to fifty men each. When the sails are in, they have a
peculiar method of propelling
Their implements of war are clubs, tomahawks, spears, slings, and stones; the
stones are of an oval pointed shape, and are carried in a bag round the waist.
They have, in common with the natives of the
The New Hebrides were first seen by the Spanish navigator
Quiros, in 1606, and were subsequently visited by Bougainville in 1768. Captain
Cook (from whom they received their present name), was, however, the first to
ascertain their situation and extent, as well as to add considerably to our
The principal islands of the New Hebrides are Espiritu Santo, Malicolo, Vate, or
But little was known of this important group of islands, until the discovery of
sandal-wood in several of them, about the year 1828; which caused vessels from
New South Wales and other places to engage in a traffic for that commodity,
which obtains a high price in the Chinese market. This traffic has been carried
on with more or less activity ever since; and, as a consequence, there have been
frequent quarrels with the natives, the traders in their transactions often
conducting themselves in a manner discreditable to Europeans; and the natives,
in their turn, revenging themselves by cutting off the vessels, and murdering
such of the crews as fell into their hands. At Aneiteum, the southernmost island
of the group, a regular factory was established by Captain Paddon, some years
ago, who surrounding himself by a number of white men and their families, and
treating the natives in a proper and judicious manner, succeeded in securing
their
The first attempt to introduce Christianity into the New Hebrides, was made in
1839 by Mr. Williams, of the
The inhabitants of most of these islands have a different language; and as they are broken up into separate communities, and generally at war with each other, missionary labours have consequently been greatly impeded.
The New Hebrides consist mostly of hills, rising in some islands to the elevation of mountains; and contain several active volcanoes, which have been referred to in a previous chapter. In the valleys, the soil is excessively fertile, and the vegetation luxuriant in the extreme; but during the rainy season fever and ague prevail to a great extent, rendering the climate very trying to Europeans.
Espiritu Santo, the most northerly, and by far the largest of the group, is more
than 160 miles in circumference. It was first visited by the Spaniards Quiros
and Torres, who, on discovering it, at once imagined they had fallen in with the
long-sought-for
This terrestrial paradise the Spaniards regarded as their own, and, taking
possession of the country in the name of Philip III., they went through the
formalities of founding a city, to be called, "La Nueva Jerusalem;" but, before
the first hut was finished, a bloody contest with the natives (which was
provoked by the Spaniards themselves), together with a failure of provisions,
obliged them to return to Lima. So anxious was Quiros of adding this splendid
island to the other Spanish possessions in the Pacific, that he is said to have
presented no less than fifty memorials to the king, after his return to Spain.
In one of these, after extolling the rich and varied vegetation, the beautiful
forests, free from the incumbrance of trailing shrubs, and
Malicolo is also a fine island, well-wooded and well-watered, and possesses a fertile soil. It is about fifty miles long by twelve or fifteen broad, and is separated from Espiritu Santo by the narrow Strait of Bougainville.
Vate, or
Erumanga is high and rocky, and presents an iron-bound shore nearly all round,
with deep water close to the cliffs. There is, however, an anchorage at Dillon's
Bay, on the west, and also one at
Erumanga is about the same size as Vate, but not nearly so fertile. Its
inhabitants were formerly notorious for their cannibal propensities, and are
Thirty-five miles south of Erumanga lies the island of Tanna, which is twenty-five miles long by ten broad. Its south end is mountainous, and it contains a very active volcano, previously described in Chapter II. Indeed the whole island is the seat of subterranean fires, which seem to contribute much to that exuberance of vegetation for which the island is distinguished—plants attaining here twice the height they have in other islands, with broader leaves and a stronger perfume. In some parts there are solfataros, or sulphur springs; and both hot and tepid waters gush from the earth in many places. The scenery of Tanna is varied and picturesque, the ranges of hills being separated from one another by wide valleys, which abound in cocoa-nuts, yams, sugar-canes, bread-fruit, and a sort of nutmeg.
The inhabitants are a treacherous race, and, like their neighbours the
Erumangans, bore the reputation of being sadly addicted to cannibalism, even
digging up the bodies of the dead after burial, to gratify their horrid
appetites. The efforts of the missionaries, who were placed at
Port Resolution, the principal harbour of Tanna, is a pretty spot; the land around the village is well cultivated, and the vegetation everywhere most luxuriant. Many small vessels call there periodically; and the missionary settlement occupies the northern side of the bay. The small islands of Niua and Erunan, or Fotuna, lie to the eastward of Tanna. The former is low, and well inhabited; the latter lofty, about fifteen miles in circumference, and peopled by a wild race, similar to those of Tanna.
Aneiteum, the most southerly of the chain of the New Hebrides, is some thirty miles round. It consists of very high land, and has a harbour formed of a sandy island and reefs on its south-west side. The inhabitants are more civilized than any others of the group, in consequence of the European establishment on the island, before referred to. The island, however, is far from fertile, hardly producing food enough, during some seasons, to supply the wants of its inhabitants. Shocks of earthquake are frequently felt at Aneiteum.
The small but majestic island of Aurora, lying east of Espiritu Santo, is adorned with picturesque forests, diversified by fine waterfalls; whilst Ambrym, near Malicolo, attracts attention by its volcano, which is constantly emitting impetuous columns of white smoke.
The natives of the various islands composing the New Hebrides exhibit a
considerable diversity both
Of the people of Tanna, Captain Erskine says, "They are generally of short stature, but muscular and athletic for their size; the colour of their skins a shiny black, and their bodies covered thinly with hair or a kind of down. Some had black or brown crisp hair; but that of the greater number was twisted, and tied up into an immense number of thin cords, the ends being frizzed out about two inches from the extremity, where the colour was a sandy red (produced by lime). The nose was generally rather flat, and the eyes of a chocolate colour; the ears of almost all being pierced, having flat rings of tortoise-shell and other trinkets hanging from them. The features of the men would not have been disagreeable, but for the constant custom of daubing their faces with black-lead, to which a thick plastering of red ochreous earth was generally added."
The inhabitants of Vate have but few points of resemblance to those of Tanna,
except in the colour of
The women of Vate are generally tall; they wear their hair closely cropped, and
occasionally ornament their bodies with raised or tattooed figures similar to
those of the men. Their dress consists of a broad waistbelt, with a square mat
in front; and behind is a singular appendage resembling a broad
The reception-houses of the Vatean villages are often of considerable size, being sometimes as much as one hundred feet long, and are open on one side. They are remarkable for having the interior of their roofs covered with bundles of bones suspended from the rafters. These bones do not appear to belong to the human species, but principally to consist of the vertebræ of pigs, the "merry-thoughts" and breastbones of fowls, and the bones of fishes, mingled with the shells of lobsters and other crustaceans.
Of the population of the New Hebrides it is difficult to speak with any degree of certainty, although it appears that the coasts in many places abound with populous villages. Aneiteum is known to possess about 5000 inhabitants, and Tanna has 15,000, according to Mr. Turner. The great island of Espiritu Santo, as well as Vate, is thickly peopled; so that probably the entire group may contain at least 60,000 souls.
Ever since the massacre of Mr. Williams at Erumanga, in 1839, the natives of the
New Hebrides have been objects of increased solicitude to the untiring
missionaries. For many years they laboured on with but little success, being
driven from one island to another, and suffering continual hardships from the
savage barbarism of the people. The year 1859, however, saw a marvellous change
at and
In the beautiful but unhealthy island of Vate, in Api, Malicolo, and Ambrym, and in the large island of Espiritu Santo, to the north, native teachers have still more recently been established; and although several of them have fallen victims to the climate, their efforts to introduce Christianity amongst the inhabitants have been rewarded with success.
The Queen Charlotte Islands are situated to the north of the New Hebrides, almost
midway between
The inhabitants, who are very numerous, are of a dark-olive colour, though some
are nearly black, and seem to belong to a different race. They all have the
crisp hair of the Austral negroes, with regular features, and broad foreheads.
They pluck the hair off every part of the body, and delight in wearing that of
the head white—an appearance they produce by means of lime—this colour forming a
strange contrast to the darkness of their bodies, which is further increased by
tattooing. Carteret describes these people as being brave and vigorous, and says
that they resolutely defended their island, which is rich and
Vanikoro is celebrated as having been the scene of the disastrous shipwreck of
the vessels under the command of La Pérouse, in 1788. It afterwards received
from the French Admiral D'Entrecasteaux—then engaged in searching for traces of
La Pérouse—the name of
The Solomon or
They are said to have been discovered, in the year 1567, by Alvero de Mendāna,
the celebrated Spanish navigator who sailed from Callao, in Peru, on a voyage of
discovery across the
At San Christoval the French missionaries formed an establishment at
The principal islands of the Solomon group are, Bougainville, New Georgia (which
consists of a number of islands, with wide channels between them, although it is
laid down on the charts as one large island), Ysabel, Malaita, or Malanta,
Guadalcanar, and St. Christoval, which is the most southerly of the chain.
Besides these are many smaller islands, such as Bouka, the Murray Islands,
According to the accounts of the various navigators who have visited the Solomon Islands, they are surrounded by reefs and coral banks, which, like those of New Caledonia, render the navigation very dangerous. They are remarkably fertile, with a humid, oppressive climate, and are covered, for the most part, with dense, dank forests, even to the tops of the highest mountains.
San Christoval is an island of large extent, being seventy miles in length and about twenty in breadth. It is mountainous and densely wooded, and has a good harbour on the east side.
Guadalcanar is also a considerable island, about fifty miles long and twelve
broad, with a good harbour, named by the
West from Malaita is the island of Florida, nearly seventy miles in circumference.
Ysabel is a fine island, nearly eighty miles long, having a good harbour at
Estrella Bay.
New Georgia is a cluster of large islands, intersected by broad channels of the sea; the reefs around it produce beche-de-mer of the finest quality; and sandal-wood grows on some of the islands, as well as excellent ginger. Eddystone Island, lying south from New Georgia is a small island of volcanic formation. It is well wooded, but very rocky and mountainous on its west side. Large quantities of sulphur occur on the slopes of the central mountain, at the summit of which is an extinct volcano; and near the beach are several hot springs. The inhabitants are more friendly towards Europeans than those of any other of the Solomon Islands; hence it is made by the traders the channel of communication with the larger islands of New Georgia.
The natives of the Solomon Islands generally
The Solomon Islanders are regarded as the. most treacherous and bloodthirsty race in the Pacific, and are notorious for their cannibalism. They are so addicted to it that at many of the islands, Captain Cheyne tells, human flesh actually forms their chief article of diet. He says, "I have been most disgusted, on visiting some of their houses, to observe human heads, arms, and legs suspended from the rafters."
Their houses are built with a gable roof, thatched with palm leaves, and somewhat
resemble those of the New Zealanders. The posts are carved with
Their principal weapons are heavy clubs, spears, and bows and arrows, the latter tipped with the sharp bones of a fish; and when meeting for war, they collect the people together by the sound of conch-shells.
The natives of New Georgia came off in large canoes, and attacked Bougainville's
vessel at
These islanders are described by Bougainville as being black, with crisp, curly hair, which they dye white, yellow or red. They are naked except a piece of mat round the loins, and wear large flat ornaments of pearl and tortoise-shell on their heads and round their necks. Their shields are oval, and made of rushes twisted above each other and very well constructed so as to be impenetrable to their ordinary arrows.
The natives of Ysabel are described as worshipping serpents, toads, and similar creatures. At the time of Mendāna's visit, it is recorded "that the chief sent to him a present of a quarter of a boy, with the hand and arm." Mendāna ordered this present to be buried in the presence of those who brought it, which gave great offence to the natives.
Between New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, and lying north-west from the latter,
are the large and imperfectly-known islands of New Britain and New Ireland. They
are separated from each other by St.
The archipelago of New Britain was long supposed to be a portion of
The nature of the soil and the character of the productions resemble those of New
Guinea and the adjacent lands. Dampier, who anchored in a bay
In the vicinity of
New Hanover is but little known. It is separated from New Holland by a channel much obstructed with reefs, and scattered here and there with small islands.
The little island called the Duke of York's, in St.
The area of New Britain may be roughly estimated at about 24,000 square miles;
New Ireland is described as 170 miles long by 12 wide; and
St.
The scenery of the east coast of New Ireland, as viewed from the sea, is thus
described by Dr. Coulter. He says, "the land in the interior seemed very high,
mountain after mountain of every shape and form towering over each other; the
deep gorges and hillsides densely wooded; the shore all along high, bold, and
rocky; a magnificent surf dashing up against the more prominent bluffs; and the
silvery path of many a mountain torrent was distinctly visible as it quivered
down through the ravines, and threw its broad sheet of water over some high
cliff into the sea." The interior of the country is a paradise of beauty and
fertility. Dr. Coulter, who landed in New Ireland under the protection of a
chief, and was kindly received by the natives, tells us, the palm, nutmeg,
cocoa-nut, magnolia, and other trees were rich and magnificent in appearance;
they grew well apart and open, except in some isolated spots, where the wild
vine and a dense growth of shrubs formed a perfect network of
Near Port Praslin, a harbour at the south-eastern extremity of New Ireland, where
Bougainville anchored, is an enormous cascade of surpassing magnificence and
grandeur, falling some hundreds of feet amidst an assemblage of rocks, in a
series of
The rains during the wet season appear to be very heavy and constant in these regions so close to the equator. Bougainville says of New Britain, after mentioning the successive shocks of earthquakes they experienced, "Here one tempest comes on before the other is gone off; it thunders continually, and the nights are fit to convey an idea of chaotic darkness.
The people of New Ireland and New Britain are black, with crisp, woolly hair, and good figures and features. They paint their cheeks with streaks of white, and dye their hair and beards with lime. Their only clothing consists of a small mat round the loins, ornamented, in the case of the chiefs, with feathers. They are described by Carteret as a very warlike race; and carry slings and spears armed with flints. Polygamy is constant among them. They practise cannibalism to a certain extent, eating their enemies taken in battle. Their canoes are sometimes ninety feet long, with outriggers, and these they manage with much skill and dexterity; and the paddles are handsomely carved. The chiefs wear large circular badges of carved mother-of-pearl round their necks, as an emblem of rank, and also necklaces and armlets of bone and shell.
Their villages are built on cleared spaces of ground, having in the centre a
large circular council or meeting-house, with a low thatched roof, supported by
pillars stained red. From the top of the roof several tall poles project, on the
pointed ends of each of which are fixed dried human skulls. The floor is covered
with fine matting, stained yellow with turmeric, having birds' feathers of
various colours interwoven here and there in a sort of emblematic design. The
ordinary dwellings are square, and formed partly under ground, for the sake of
coolness; they are thatched with branches of palm-trees or coarse flags, which,
in most instances, are rendered fireproof with a thick layer of well-wrought
mud, plastered down by the aid of a wooden trowel. They are divided into many
tribes, who are constantly at war with each other; and "look-outs" or scouts are
posted in various commanding positions near their villages, to give notice of
the approach of an enemy, so as to prevent the inmates being taken by surprise.
The power of the chiefs is absolute, they holding the life or death of their
subjects in their hands. When the warriors move from station to station, as they
do periodically, they are accompanied by their wives and children; and the
chiefs, who are a sort of magistrates for consultation on any matters affecting
the tribe, see that these families are properly cared for. Should a man neglect
his family, a mode of punishment very similar to one practised by school-boys
amongst civilized nations is adopted. A double row of men, women, and
children—the whole
West from New Hanover nearly 200 miles, and north-east about the same distance
from
The natives of the Admiralty Islands have black complexions, though not so dark
as those of the people of New Ireland; their physiognomy is agreeable, and their
features good, and not unlike those of Europeans. Their hair is black and curly.
They paint themselves red with ochre mixed with oil; and carry spears tipped
with flint. The only covering of the men is a shell—the ovulum
ovum. The women wear a bandage round the waist. They have numerous large
villages surrounded with cocoanut trees; and exhibit generally a higher degree
of civilization than their southern neighbours. They
The Exchequer and
The archipelago of the Carolines embraces a vast number of
small islands and groups of rocks which lie scattered over the western portion
of the Pacific north of the equator, between the parallels of 5º and 12º north
latitude, and the meridians of 134º
In 1595, one of the Caroline Islands in about 6º north latitude, was seen by
Mendāna; but two proas full of people, driven by the violence of a storm from
these islands as far as Samal, in the Philippines, roused the attention of the
college of Jesuits at Manilla, who made several unsuccessful attempts to
establish missions on the Carolines, which the wrecked natives described as
being very numerous. In the year 1710, two priests, Duberron and Cortel,
embarked in the "San Trinidad," with a crew of eighty six men, to establish
themselves on the
These islands are generally fertile, and possess an agreeable climate; but they
are, at times, subject to dreadful hurricanes. For some years past, English and
American vessels, principally whalers, have resorted to the Caroline Islands in
great numbers for water and refreshments; as many as ten or twelve ships
arriving at one island during a single season. Several white men, generally
runaway sailors, reside on the islands thus visited, and keep what are called
accommodation-houses, for the use of the captains and crews of vessels resorting
to these shores. The effect of so large an influx of foreigners of this class
has had a sadly demoralizing influence upon the natives, who are fast decreasing
in numbers. Within the last few years several American missionaries have
established themselves, along with some native teachers from the Sandwich
Islands, upon Ualau, or
The largest and most important of the Caroline Islands are Hogoleu, Bornabi,
Hogoleu, instead of being one continuous island, consists of five large and high islands of volcanic formation, together with a number of smaller ones, which are situated within a very extensive central lagoon, the whole being surrounded by coral reefs and low islands of similar structure. There are many passages for vessels to be found through this outer barrier reef of Hogoleu; and secure anchorage may be obtained in many places within the lagoon. The inhabitants are very numerous, amounting to from 15,000 to 20,000 souls; they are described as being of a light copper complexion, and are a cruel and treacherous race. Bêche-de-mer is abundant on the reefs; but, owing to the character of the natives, great precautions are necessary in obtaining it, the crews of several vessels thus engaged having been attacked by them. Of the people of Hogoleu, Captain Cheyne says, "They are very expert in slinging stones, and can throw the spear with great precision; we also observed many of them armed with brasshilted cutlasses, and a great number had large Spanish knives."
Strong's Island, or Ualau, is of volcanic formation and moderate elevation. It is
surrounded by a coral reef, and possesses two good and safe harbours, at which
many vessels touch for wood and water, as well as yams and fowls, of which an
abundant supply
Bornabi is high, of volcanic origin, and surrounded, like Hogoleu and Ualau, by coral reefs, between which and the mainland are many small islands, which are elevated only a few feet above the water, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. This large island has several excellent harbours, the two principal of which are Matalanian, and Roankiddi, both the resort of whaling vessels.
The climate of Bornabi is very moist, scarcely a day passing without rain during
the months from
The whole island is thickly wooded, and produces many varieties of good timber suitable for shipbuilding and other purposes. The shores are surrounded by mangrove-trees, growing in the salt water, which form an impenetrable barrier to boats or canoes landing, except in the rivers and small channels formed by the creeks.
The soil is composed of a rich loam, and would, if properly cultivated, produce
every variety of tropical fruits and esculent roots, together with coffee,
arrowroot, and sugar. The woods throughout the islands are very thick, and often
composed of large and fine trees; among them are the tree-fern, banyan,
pandanus, sassafras, and several species of palms. The trunks of many of the
trees are clothed with vines
Beautiful sweet-scented flowers of various colours are abundant, and are much esteemed by the natives, who string them into wreaths, which both sexes wear round their hair at feasts and on other occasions. The bread-fruit tree here grows to a large size; and the cocoa-nut, banana, and wild orange are also found in great numbers. The "kava" is cultivated extensively; and an intoxicating drink is made from the toddy-palm.
The cultivated lands do not extend far from the coasts, near which all the villages are situated. There are no inhabitants in the interior; and but few of the natives have ever visited the centre of the island. Wild pigeons occur in infinite numbers. There are no indigenous quadrupeds, excepting rats and the vampire, or "flying fox," which is very destructive to the bread-fruit. Fish are taken on the reefs in great abundance and variety.
The population of Bornabi is recorded to be about 7000; and upwards of sixty Europeans are resident on the island, chiefly runaway convicts and sailors, who carry on a lucrative trade in tortoise-shell and bêche-de-mer, which they procure from the natives, and re-sell to the ships at a profit of 500 per cent.
The complexion of the
These people are remarkable for the affection they bear towards their offspring, and also for the respect they pay to old age. They are good-humoured, desirous of pleasing, and exceedingly hospitable.
The island of Bornabi is divided into five tribes, independent of each other, and each having a sovereign of its own. Every king has a prime minister and a council formed of nobles, by whom all affairs of importance are decided. In every village is a large council-house, with a raised platform in the centre for the accommodation of the chiefs while discussing the affairs of the tribe. These meetings are always attended with feasting and kava-drinking, at the expense of the chief in whose village the meeting is held.
The canoes of Bornabi are hollowed out of a large tree, and are very neatly made.
The outrigger is
Their houses are of superior construction, forming an oblong square. The frame rests upon a foundation of stone-work four or five feet from the ground, above which the sides are covered in with wickerwork, having several open spaces left for windows, to which they have shutters of the same material. The whole frame of the house is made of squared timber; and the uprights are mortised into the wallplates. In the centre of the floor is a fireplace; and the remainder is covered over with wicker-work, similar to that of the sides. The roof is thatched neatly with pandanus leaves. These houses thus constructed are exceedingly clean and comfortable, and have a neat and even elegant appearance.
The dress of the men is made of young cocoa-nut leaves bleached, and slit into
narrow strips, which are fastened to a string at one end; it is about two feet
in depth, and reaches from the hip to the knee. A man, when fully dressed, has
about six of these tied round him. They also wear wrapped round the waist very
handsome belts, which are about six feet long, and are made of the fibres of the
banana tree, woven in a hand-loom, and dyed red and yellow, in variegated
figures. The women's dress consists of an upper article of clothing, like a
handkerchief,
The only musical instrument they have is a small flute, played by the nostrils, and a drum of hollow wood covered over at the ends with shark's skin. Their dances are by no means indecorous, and are performed by the unmarried men and girls, who stand in a row on a plank, and with graceful movements of the arms and body keep time with their feet to the song. Both sexes are tattooed from the loins to the ankles, and from the elbows to the knuckles. The natives are very clean; they bathe three times a day, and anoint their bodies with scented cocoa-nut oil and turmeric.
Their weapons consist chiefly of muskets and spears. Of the former there are said to be fully 1500 amongst the people of Bornabi, they having procured them from the whalers as payment for yams and tortoise-shell.
Their religion is very simple. They have neither images nor temples; and, although they believe in the immortality of the soul, and that their elysium is surrounded by a wall with a bottomless ditch round it, guarded by an old woman, yet they do not appear to have any religious observances. They look upon cannibalism with as much abhorrence as we do ourselves, and are not supposed ever to have practised it.
Near Matalanien Harbour, in Bornabi, are some interesting old ruins, the origin
of which is involved in obscurity. That a fortified town once stood upon this
spot, and not built by savages, cannot be doubted, the style of the ruins giving
strong proofs of civilization. Some of the stones measure eight or ten feet in
length, are hexagonal, and have evidently been brought thither from some other
country, there being no stone on the island similar to them. Streets are formed
in several places; and the whole town seems to have been a succession of
fortified houses. It seems probable that at one time this town was the
stronghold of pirates; and it has been conjectured that it was built by the
Spanish buccaneers, some two or three centuries ago. Similar ruins exist also at
Yap is surrounded by a coral reef, and is possessed of an excellent harbour on
its south-east side, having an entrance about 200 yards wide. The island is
moderately elevated in the centre, and slopes gradually towards the shore all
round. There is but little timber of any size growing upon
The natives of Yap are an able-bodied race, wellformed, and of a light copper complexion. They are in a more advanced state of civilization than any of the other Caroline Islanders, their villages being regularly laid out into streets, which are neatly paved. They have also well-constructed stone wharfs and piers. Each village has a large square, in which the chiefs meet for consultation.
Their dress, and their manners and customs generally, resemble those of the islands previously described, except that both sexes wear conical hats, formed of palm-trees sewn together, which protect their heads effectually from both rain and sun. They smoke tobacco, which they roll up in leaves, in a similar fashion to the cigarettes of the Spaniards.
The natives of Yap are represented by those who have visited the island to be a treacherous and cunning race, not to be depended on; as they are apt to endeavour to obtain possession by force or fraud of any article which they covet. Indeed, faithlessness is a prevailing characteristic of the inhabitants of all the Caroline Islands.
The Pelew or
The Pelew Islanders have always been represented as an amiable, gay, and innocent
people. They are handsome, of a middling stature, and of a very dark copper
colour. Their hair is long and flowing. The men go naked, and the women wear
small aprons or fringes made of the fibre of the cocoa-nut. Both sexes are
tattooed, and their teeth are blackened by an application of herbs. Their
government is vested in a king, under whom are "rupaks," or chiefs, forming a
sort of nobility; and the whole of the land is the absolute property of the
king. Their houses are fixed on broad stones, raised about three feet from the
ground, and are formed of boards and bamboo. They have likewise large halls for
public meetings. They manufacture pottery of a coarse kind, also knives of
mother-of-pearl, and beautiful dishes, bracelets, and spoons of tortoise-shell.
Some of their necklaces are made of cornelian pebbles strung together. Their
canoes are made out of
The Pelew Islands were first made known to us by the shipwreck there of the East
India Company's vessel "Antelope," commanded by Captain H. Wilson, in the year
1783. The captain and crew were received with the greatest kindness by the
natives, and their king, Abbe Thulle, generously relieved their wants, and
afforded them all the succour in his power. After remaining four months on the
little island of Oroolong, these shipwrecked people left the
Poor Lee Boo arrived safely in England, but before many months elapsed he caught
the smallpox, and died. He was buried in Rotherhithe churchyard, far away from
his own pleasant groves of waving cocoa-nuts and shady bread-fruit trees.
"Stop, reader, stop! let Nature claim a tear— A prince of mine, Le Boo, lies buried here."
To the north-east of the Carolines is a large cluster of low coralline islands,
discovered by Marshall and Gilbert in 1788; the northern portion being usually
called Marshall's, and those to the south
The inhabitants are a fine race, with good features, long curling hair, and athletic frames. The men are partially clothed, and the women wear fine, beautifully-made mats, reaching from the waist to the feet. They are fond of ornaments, and distend the lobe of the ear to an enormous size. They perform long voyages from one island to another in canoes made of bread-fruit-tree planks. These islanders have not had much communication with foreigners; but American missionaries are now labouring amongst them.
Immediately south of the Gilbert Islands, and extending two
or three degrees both north and south of the equator, is the Kingsmill group. It
reaches from 173° to 176° east longitude, and consists of about fifteen low
coral islands, the most elevated of which is not more than twenty or thirty feet
above
Drummond Island, or Taputeouea, the largest of the Kingsmills, is in 1° 25' south latitude, and 174° 50' east longitude. It is about thirty-five or forty miles long, and very narrow, so much so, indeed, that in some places it is not more than a mile across. At its north-west extremity is the native town of Utiroo, which alone contains upwards of 400 houses, whilst four or five other towns are scattered over the island.
Sydenham Island, or Nanouti, is next in size, being nineteen miles long by eight wide.
Apamama, or
Kuria is six miles long by three wide, and very populous.
Taritari is about thirteen miles long, and thickly covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and low brushwood. It swarms with musquitoes. This island, and that of Makin, which is six miles long and very narrow, are also known as Pitt's Islands.
The population of the entire group has been variously estimated at from 30,000 to 60,000 souls, the latter being probably nearer the mark.
Some of the smaller islands have rather a bare aspect, with patches of white
coral sand, and only scanty groups here and there of trees; whilst others are
densely covered with thick groves, which present
Bread-fruit trees are to be found on some of the northern islands; and "taro," which grows to a large size, is carefully cultivated by the natives. Fish is very abundant throughout the reefs and lagoons, and forms a considerable proportion of the food of the natives.
The climate of the Kingsmills, though of high temperature, is equable and less oppressive than in most tropical countries. For the most part constant breezes prevail, and frequent rain falls, which moderates the great heat, and at the same time confers fertility on the soil. Between October and April variable winds, with typhoon-like gales from the south-west, prevail, during which the natives are obliged to tie down their houses with stakes, in order to prevent them being blown away. These storms last three or four days, during which time the trunks of large trees are washed upon the west side of the islands, together with lumps of resin, similar to the cowrie-gum of New Zealand. From May to September the weather is fine, with clear skies and only occasional showers, the wind blowing constantly from the eastward.
From diseases these islands appear to be tolerably free. Consumption, a kind of cholera, and a skin disease, called by the natives "gune," being the only maladies from which they seem to suffer.
Of the inhabitants of the Kingsmills, Commodore Wilkes, of the
The men of the better class are elaborately tattooed by professed tattooers, who
are held in much estimation, and receive high prices for their work. Young men
are not tattooed until they
The mats worn by the men are made of the leaves of the pandanus, slit into slips about a quarter of an inch wide, and woven by hand; they are of two colours, the light yellow and the dark brown, the slips being braided together so as to form regular figures, square or diamond-shaped, which have a pleasing effect. They also wear a conical cap on the head of similar material. The shoulders are covered with a small oblong mat, having a slit in the middle, through which the head is passed, after the fashion of a "poncho." The women wear a graceful petticoat of fringe, composed of the leaves of the cocoa-nut cut into thin strips, depending from the waist to the knee. In their ears they wear long rolls of the pith of a shrub abundant on these islands. Long strings of human hair, mingled with beads, sometimes upwards of a hundred fathoms long, are worn round the body, and serve to fasten the mat. Their beads are made of cocoa-nut and shells, strung alternately black and white, ground down to a uniform size, and fitted together like a necklace.
In battle, the costume of the Kingsmill warrior is peculiar and striking in the
extreme. On the head is worn a cap formed of the skin of the porcupine fish,
bristling with sharp spines, and ornamented with a few feathers at the top. The
body is
As respects their social state, the people are divided into three classes—the chiefs, the landowners, and the slaves. There does not, however, appear to be any general authority existing throughout the group, excepting in the islands of Apamama, Nanouki, and Kuria, where there is a king who governs the three, and resides on the first-named island. In some parts the government is carried on by the whole body of chiefs, who take rank according to their age. In the towns are large councilhouses, called "mariapa," for the purpose of accommodating the chiefs and people on all public occasions. The chiefs have absolute rule over their own families and slaves; and minor crimes are punished by the offended party or his relatives; but in cases of importance the decision is made and the punishment ordered in council.
One great and marked distinction between the
Their religious belief is of a simple kind. They worship a tutelar deity, called
Tabu-ariki; and also a female divinity, of a cruel nature, named Itivini,
Their mode of salutation when a stranger arrives is by anointing his forehead with cocoa-nut oil mixed with coloured earth, and drawing a line down the face to the chin. Each chief has a different coloured oil, so that a stranger bearing on his features either black, white, red, or brown may be known to be under the protection of the chief whose colour he wears.
Although poultry abounds on these islands the natives are averse to eating them.
They are, however, passionately addicted to cock-fighting, though whether this
barbarous sport is purely a native one, or has been introduced by European
runaways, who have from time to time resided on these islands, it is not easy to
determine. Dr. Coulter, who visited the Kingsmills in a whaling vessel, thus
alludes to their cock-fighting propensities:—"In approaching the town we came in
contact with a group of about one hundred people, excitingly and ardently
engaged
War, on all the islands except Makin, appears to be the principal business of these people—as cockfighting is their pastime. Both sexes join in the combat; and the victors make no distinction of age or sex in the indiscriminate massacre that ensues. Although the Kingsmill people are not generally cannibals, it occasionally happens that, when some celebrated warrior is slain, the young men eat portions of his flesh from motives of hatred and revenge.
Their houses and canoes are well built; and indeed all their fabrics are large,
strong, and durable, although constructed of unsuitable materials. The "mariapa"
or council-house on the island of Makin is an enormous building, with a lofty
arched roof, supported by framework and upright poles, lined with matting, and
thatched with leaves. Their ordinary dwellings are open below, with a sleeping
loft above; whilst some are mere sheds, without lofts, where the chiefs pass
much of their time in receiving visits and in
The principal food of these islanders is fish—which they catch on the reefs and in the lagoons in great abundance—and the taro, cocoa-nut, and pandanus. Of the nuts of the latter, pounded and prepared, they make a sort of paste, which they call "karapapa," which is put up in rolls from eight to ten feet long, bound with leaves, and made so smooth and round that they resemble pillars of brown stone. This preparation will keep for years, and is much depended on in times of scarcity. Taro and grated cocoa-nut are made into balls as large as 32-pound shot, and baked in their ovens. Toddy is procured from the spathe of the cocoa-nut tree, and used as an intoxicating beverage at their feasts, where it is served in large wooden bowls, from which it is handed round in small cups formed of cocoa-nut shells, or in human skulls.
Their great festivities take place at the full moon, when feasting, singing, and dancing, are indulged in for three days. Football, flying kites, fencing, sailing small canoes, and swimming matches in the surf, are also favourite amusements with the younger portion of the community.
Of all their customs those connected with their funeral ceremonies are perhaps
the most singular. Captain Wilkes, who commanded the
"The funeral ceremonies on Makin (
Ocean Island lies due west from the Kingsmills, in latitude 0° 48' south, and longitude 169° 49' east. It is a high, circular island, nearly fifteen miles in circumference, having neither harbour nor anchorage. It has no surrounding reefs, but the coast is steep-to all round, and clear of any hidden dangers. This island is very thickly inhabited by a fine-looking race of men of a light copper colour, with pleasing features. The men go entirely naked, and the women wear a sort of petticoat, formed of young cocoa-nut leaves cut into strips, and braided on to a string at one end. They have fine black hair, which they dress with much care, perfuming it with sweet essences mixed with cocoa-nut oil. They subsist chiefly on cocoa-nuts, bananas, sugar-cane, and fish. Their houses are small but neat. They are thatched with cocoa-nut leaves, having open sides, but they have a loft resting on the wall-plates, in which they sleep. The lower apartment is paved with round stones, and is generally cool and pleasant.
They have canoes formed of thin planks sewn together, which carry from four to ten persons each, and are propelled by paddles only.
Pleasant Island is nearly three degrees to the west of
Ellice's Islands, or the Vaitapu group, are a numerous cluster of low coral
islands scattered about to the northward of the
The people of this group are darker than the Samoans; they practise tattooing;
and both sexes wear the maro, as well as a broad girdle with a
heavy fringe. They have many peculiar weapons; and large canoes hollowed out of
a single tree, with outriggers, and triangular sails. The population of the
entire group is not more than 1700 or 1800.
To the north-east of
Stewart's Islands consist of five low coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut
trees, and connected by reefs, forming a central lagoon. The group is of a
triangular form, about 15 miles in circumference, and is situated in latitude 8°
24' south, and 163° east longitude, or about half-way between the Kingsmills and
the Solomon archipelago. This little cluster of islands is inhabited by a very
To the north of the Caroline Archipelago are the Marian or
The Ladrones were first discovered by Magellan in 1521, who gave them this name
in consequence of the thievish propensities of the natives. The subsequent
appellation of the Marian Islands was bestowed upon them by the Spaniards, in
honour of
In the year 1668 the Spanish established a mission on Guam, consisting of six
fathers, with several lay assistants, most of whom were natives of the
In 1686 Dampier touched at Guam. In the narrative of his voyage round the world, he gives an account of this island, and its aboriginal inhabitants, which latter he stated not to exceed 100 in number. He informs us that they made use of very elegant and swift canoes, with outriggers, called "flying proas," that sailed almost in the wind's eye, and attained a speed of twenty miles an hour.
Captain Woodes Rogers, with the "Duke" and the "Duchess" privateers, fitted out
from Bristol in the year 1708 to cruise in the
He describes the island of Guam as "full of hills, dales, and streams of good
water; it produces the bread-fruit, the cocoa-nut, and other fruits natural to
the soil and climate, besides oranges, lemons, citrons, musk, and water-melons,
which were
Of the natives he says, "they are tall, strong and of a dark olive colour; they all go naked, except the wearing of a cloth in front, and the women a little petticoat. The men are dexterous at slinging, and make use of pieces of clay of an oval form, which they burn till it is as hard as marble; they are excellent marksmen, for the Spaniards say they seldom miss hitting any object, and throw with such force as to kill a man at a considerable distance."
In 1742, a little more than half a century after the visit of Dampier, Commodore
Scattered over various parts of the island of Tinian are a great number of
remarkable ruins, the work of some race long extinct. They usually consist of
two rows of square, pyramidal pillars, each pillar being about six feet from the
next, and the distance between the two rows about twelve feet. The pillars
themselves are some five feet square at the base, and about thirteen feet high;
and on the top of each is a semi-globe, with the flat part upwards. These
spacious structures were composed of sand and stone cemented together, and
plastered over; and were probably dedicated to religious purposes. Although
there are no rivers in Tinian, the water of the wells and springs everywhere to
be met with near the surface is described as excellent; and in the middle of the
island are several considerable lagoons of fresh water. The great drawback to
this fertile and beautiful island appears to be the want of a good harbour, and
the
Lieut. Kotzebue visited Guam (or Guahan, as he calls it) in 1817. He says, on approaching it, "We looked in vain for a canoe or a man on the shore; and it seemed almost as though we were off an uninhabited island. The sight of this lovely country deeply affected me. Formerly, these fertile valleys were the abode of a nation who passed their days in tranquil happiness; now, only the beautiful palmgroves remained to overshadow their graves; while a death-like silence everywhere prevailed." Soon, however, a person appeared from the Spanish governor, and piloted the ship into the harbour; and after this Kotzebue proceeded to the town of St. Ygnacio de Agaña, situated upon a beautiful plain near the seashore, in the midst of fine palm groves. It had a church, a convent, and two fortresses. The town contained about 200 houses, some of which were built of coral limestone, and others of bamboo. There were about 1500 inhabitants, consisting of a mixed race of Spaniards, Mexicans, and Philippine Islanders; the original Ladrone stock being all but extinct.
The Ladrone Islands are all of them of volcanic origin, irregular and picturesque in outline, and clothed with luxuriant vegetation. The straits intervening between them are full of shoals and currents, and they possess but few good harbours. The heat of the climate is somewhat moderated by the trade winds, that blow pretty regularly throughout the year.
Sugar, rice, Indian corn, tobacco, cotton, and
The other islands generally to the north of Guam are uninhabited, and overrun
with wild cattle, hogs, and goats, which afford supplies to the American vessels
trading to the
Northwards from the Ladrones, and about midway between them and the coasts of
Japan, lie the Bonin, or
A little to the south of the
In these seas is situated the famous pyramidal rock called "
Easter Island, or Teapi, situated at the extreme
south-eastern portion of the Polynesian groups, is remarkable for its solitary
position, lying, as it does, nearly midway between the
It is said to have been discovered by the Buccaneer Davis in 1687, who gave it
his own name, calling it
The island is generally mountainous and barren, and bears evident marks, not only
of a volcanic origin, but of having been, at no very remote period, entirely
ruined by an eruption. There are but few trees, and the ground is covered with
loose rocks and stones that appear to have been exposed to great heat, and are
of a black colour and cellular texture. A few species of coarse grasses grow
amongst these stones, serving in some measure to soften the desolate appearance
of the scene. In the northern part of the island are huge masses of black lava,
without any vegetation whatever; and cliffs of a similar character rise abruptly
from the shore in many places. Notwithstanding this general barrenness, however,
there are several large tracts covered with cultivated soil, which produces
potatoes of a golden
The most curious feature connected with Easter Island is the occurrence, on the
sea-coast, of a number of colossal statues, of which, however, but very few
remain entire to this day. At the period of Captain Cook's visit, there were to
be seen the ruins of three platforms of stonework, on the east side of the
island, on each of which had stood four of these large statues; but they were
all fallen down from two of the platforms, and one from the third; being all
more or less broken and defaced by the fall. One which was measured was fifteen
feet long, and six feet broad across the shoulders. Each statue had on its head
a large cylindrical stone, of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. Others were
found that measured near twenty-seven feet long, and upwards of eight feet
across the shoulders; and a still larger one was seen standing, the shade of
which was sufficient to shelter a party of nearly thirty persons from the heat
of the sun. The workmanship of these remarkable figures is rude, but not bad,
nor are the features of the face ill-formed. The ears are long, according to the
distortion practised by the natives of the island at the present time; but the
body itself has but little of the shape
Although so far removed from the other Polynesian islands, the inhabitants nearly
resemble in manners and customs, in religious belief, and in physical aspect,
those of the
Shortly prior to the visit of Kotzebue, who describes the natives as hostile and
opposed to his landing, he tells us, an American captain commanding a schooner
called the "Nancy," of New London, had observed a vast multitude of seals on the
shores of an uninhabited island near
Twelve hundred miles south and east from Tahiti lies the solitary island of
Pitcairn, which bears an historic interest as having been the rendezvous of the
mutineers of the "Bounty." and, up to a recent period, the dwelling-place of
their descendants. It was first discovered by Captain Carteret, in July,
Pitcairn Island is but four miles and a half in circumference, a mile and a half
being its greatest length. When first seen, it appeared, says Carteret, "like a
great rock rising out of the sea," its highest point being 1,008 feet above the
sea level. Like the Society Islands, it is of volcanic origin, and the scenery
is wild and picturesque. The cocoa-nut, the plantain, the bread-fruit, and the
banyan grow luxuriantly, and the soil is favourable for the cultivation of
vegetables and cereals. Lieutenant Shillibeer, who visited Pitcairn in the
"Briton," in 1814, says, "the island has an exceedingly pretty appearance, and,
I was informed by Christian, was fertile, and capable of being cultivated. The
coast is bound with rocks, insomuch that the islanders are at all times obliged
to carry their little boats to the village, but the timber is so light that one
man is adequate to the burden of the largest they have. Each family has a
separate allotment of land, and each strives to rival the other in their
agricultural pursuits, which are chiefly confined to the propagation of the yam,
which they have certainly brought to the finest perfection." Of the village or
settlement where the islanders dwelt, he remarks,
The story of the mutiny of the "Bounty" is an old one now, and one with which
most are familiar. Lieutenant Bligh, who had been sailing-master with Captain
Cook in the "Resolution," was sent in 1787 to the
The mutineers, meanwhile, proceeded to Tahiti,
For many years the fate of Christian and his companions (who had run the ship
ashore and burned her at Pitcairn) remained unknown, and it was not till 1808
that an American vessel touched at Pitcairn, and reported to the British
Government that it was the refuge of those of the mutineers of the "Bounty" who
had left Tahiti in 1790; but no steps were taken in the matter, nor was the
island
In 1831, the numbers of the islanders having increased to eighty-seven, the
difficulty of procuring a sufficient supply of food, and especially of water, in
the little rocky island they inhabited, became apparent, and they were, at their
own desire, removed to Tahiti, under convoy of a British ship of war. Displeased
with the low state of morality amongst the Tahitians, and having been attacked
with fever, which proved fatal to twelve of their number, they only remained
there for a few months, and then chartered a vessel to convey them back to their
former home. In 1839 the
In 1853, a scarcity of provisions, followed by much sickness, caused again a
desire for a change of residence, and the islanders petitioned Government to
grant them
Since that period, a party of twenty-seven persons still longing after Pitcairn, returned thither in a small vessel. In 1864, the Rev. Mr. Nobbs writes, "We who remain number 248 persons, nearly equal as to sex. Our confirmation, last year, added fifteen communicants: the monthly average is seventy. We expect Bishop Patteson, of Melanesia, in April. The total number of births, since our arrival in 1856, is 117; deaths, twenty-six."
These interesting people have been visited by
Norfolk Island is situated in latitude 29° 3' south, and longitude 167° 58' east;
lying about 900 miles east from the coast of Australia; and almost due north
from the north cape of New Zealand, from which it is distant a little more than
300 miles. It is very small, containing an area of only thirteen and a half
square miles. The greater portion of its surface is tolerably level; Mount Pitt,
the highest eminence on the island, only rising 1050 feet above the level of the
sea.
Philip Island, a small islet adjacent to Nestor productus, or Philip Island parrot.
For many years past this island has had an unenviable notoriety as a penal
settlement of the worst class of criminals-of prisoners so hardened as to be
banished from the convict establishments of the neighbouring Australian
colonies. Happily, however, the extensive penal establishment at
The principal settlement is at
Up to the year 1788
A recent visitor to
Norfolk Island, as viewed from the sea, looks rather barren, its coast being
iron-bound; in some places the high cliffs are composed of fine pillars of
basalt. It is difficult to approach the shore, even with boats, except at Sydney
Bay, and another spot called the Cascades, at the back of the island, on account
of the heavy surf. On landing and penetrating into the interior of the island
the scenery is peculiarly charming and beautiful. The hills and valleys are
clothed with fine grass, and scattered here and there with forest clumps or
single individuals of the magnificent (Araucaria excelsa), "disposed" says Mr. Hood, "as if by the hands of
the landscape gardener in the most picturesque manner over the whole island up
to the top of Mount Pitt, which rises to the height of more than
Whilst the principally
directed to New Zealand, and, more recently, to those islands in the western
portion of the
In the year 1810 the Rev. Mr. Marsden proposed to the
Much of the security and success of these early labourers in the cause of
Christianity was owing to the protection of E. Hongi, the great chief of the
In August, 1823, the first ordained missionary of New Zealand, the Rev. Henry Williams, now Archdeacon of Waimate, established another station at Pahia; he was assisted by Mr. Fairburn, a clever carpenter as well as an excellent teacher. In the following year they were joined by two other catechists, and in 1825 by Mr. Williams's brother, the Rev. W. Williams (now Bishop of Waiapu), and his wife. In 1829 Mr. and Mrs. Brown arrived, to undertake the charge of the education of the children of the missionaries, who were now becoming numerous.
In the following year the farm station of Waimate was formed, with a view to
render the mission
In 1833 a fifth station was formed at Kaitaia, to the northward of the Bay of
Islands, and two lay
In 1834 a printing-press was sent out for the use of the mission, and in 1838
the whole of the
New Zealand was at this period a dependency of New South Wales, and therefore
within the diocese of the Bishop of Australia. It was accordingly visited by
In 1840 the sovereignty of Great Britain over New Zealand was established by
treaty, and at the same time it was proclaimed an independent colony, to
which settlers from the mother-country rapidly emigrated in large numbers.
The increasing urgency of its need of episcopal supervision led to its being
constituted a colonial bishopric, and, consequently, on the 17th October,
1841, the Rev..
On the 29th May, 1842, the bishop arrived at Auckland, and at once commenced
his labours both amongst the European and the native population. From this
time forward, a recent writer says "the history of the
One of the bishop's first cares was to select sites at Auckland for an additional cemetery, another church, and for parsonage-houses contiguous. He also gave directions for the purchase of land for the site of the cathedral, and for a cathedral close. He rejected the proffered State grant towards the support of the clergy and erection of churches, certain conditions being attached to their reception of which he did not approve; preferring "to maintain the independence of the Church, and to commit her support to the free charities of the servants of God."
In 1852, the l. for St. l. for the projected College at
In 1856 the Bishop of Christchurch was consecrated for the new Colony of Canterbury, which had been established on the eastern coast of the Middle Island of New Zealand.
In 1858 the charge of the Bishop of New Zealand was further diminished by the
erection of the sees of Wellington and Nelson. At the same time Bishop
Selwyn was appointed Metropolitan, and, in
In the year 1850 the
The Bishop of Newcastle, however, only accompanied the Bishop of New Zealand on one voyage to the islands, Dr. Selwyn from that time carrying on the mission alone. The plan pursued by the bishop was to visit, in a small vessel, annually, as many islands as he could, bestowing presents, and establishing friendly relations with the savage inhabitants, so as eventually to succeed in inducing some of the young men or lads to accompany him to New Zealand. There they were taught to read and write in their own languages, and were instructed in the doctrines of the Christian faith, and in social and civilized habits. Eventually they were conveyed back in the missionary schooner to their native islands, and other scholars brought to fill their places. In this manner as many as seventy-five scholars, from upwards of fifteen different islands, principally those of the Loyalty and New Hebrides groups, were received into the Melanesian school up to the close of 1857.
In 1861 the Metropolitan resigned this portion of his labours to the Rev. J.
C. Patteson, who had
In 1862 a mission schooner was subscribed for and built in l., and was named
the "
The following list will show the number of clergy at present labouring in the various dioceses of New Zealand, and in that of Melanesia:—
The End.
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