The Early Journals of Henry Williams

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The Early Journals of Henry Williams Senior Missionary in New Zealand of the Church Missionary Society 1826–40 Edited by Lawrence M. Rogers Pegasus PressChristchurchFirst Published 1961 An Edition of 600 Copies Of Which This is No. 165 Printed at the Pegasus Press Christchurch, New Zealand

Dedicated to Hilda Temple Williams

Granddaughter of Archdeacon Henry Williams whose devotion to the memory of her grandparents inspired the determination to collect the records of their life and work

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Contents

page Introduction 15 I DECEMBER 1826 to DECEMBER 1827 Brig captured by convicts — Wesleyans abandon Whangaroa — Hongi wounded — Problems with girls and ships — Threats of muru — Marsden arrives — N.Z. Colony in N.S.W. — Herald leaves for Sydney — Translation work — Peacemaking parleys. 31 II JANUARY to NOVEMBER 1828 Problems of food — Interview between Ngapuhi and Kawakawa — Hongi's death — Whareumu killed — Peace expedition to Hokianga — Arranging escape for Rotorua party — Voyage to Whakatane, Opotiki, Tauranga — Rangituke killed — Litany read in Maori — Peacemaking at Waitangi. 96 III APRIL to MAY 1829 “Stripping” party from Rangihoua — Hahunga of Hongi's bones at Whangaroa. 150 IV MARCH to DECEMBER 1830 “Girls' War” — Marsden arrives—Fighting at Thames — School examinations. 155 V JANUARY to DECEMBER 1831 Peace parleys at Hokianga, Mangakahia, &c. — War party to Tauranga — Karere launched — Trouble with Rotorua Maoris — Journey to Rotorua — More peacemaking. 168 VI JANUARY to DECEMBER 1832 War party to Tauranga — Peace parleys — Pomare plans attack on Waikato — Land troubles — Ceremonial with heads. 211 VII JANUARY to DECEMBER 1833 Peace parleys — Voyage to Tauranga and Maketu — East Cape Maoris captured by Captain Black — Busby arrives — Rotorua asks for missionaries — Ploughs used at Waimate — Death of Tohitapu — Journey to Thames and Waikato — Te Waharoa — Journey to Whangaroa. 272 VIII JANUARY to DECEMBER 1834 Te Waharoa's patu delivered — Voyage to Kaitaia — Attack on Busby — Missionaries leave for Waikato — Trouble with Wesleyans — Fighting at Kororareka. 356 IX JANUARY to DECEMBER 1835 A. N. Brown leaves for Waikato — Peace parleys — Journey to Thames and Waikato. 405 X 1836 to 1839 Tribal wars in Waikato — Journey to Waikato — Tribal wars in Bay of Islands — Bishop Pompallier arrives — Mission established in Poverty Bay. 433 XI OCTOBER 1839 to JANUARY 1840 Voyage to Port Nicholson— Hadfield established at Otaki — Wanganui visited — Overland journey to Taupo, Rotorua and Tauranga—Meets Captain Hobson, Lieutenant-Governor. 445 APPENDICES I The Family of Henry Williams 479 II Maori Orthography 480 III Land Purchases 484 IV The Herald 487 V C.M.S. Vindication of Henry Williams 491 Glossary of Maori Words 493 Bibliography 495 Index 507

Maps

Hokianga—Bay of Islands area 26-7 Bay of Plenty, Rotorua & Waikato journeys, 1828-36 28 The journey to Port Nicholson, 1839–40 29

Illustrations

Henry Williams From a daguerrotype, probably in the 1860s. (Auckland Institute & Museum) frontispiece facing page The Beehive, Paihia From a sketch by Henry Williams, about 1823. (Auckland Institute & Museum) 96 “Passing Through a Swamp in New Zealand” From a sketch found among Henry Williams's papers. (Auckland Institute & Museum) 96 The First Church at Paihia From a sketch by Dr. J. Kinder. (Colonists Museum, Auckland) 97 Little Omaha From a sketch by Henry Williams, 1831. (Auckland Institute & Museum) 112 Paihia in The 1830s From W. Williams's Christianity Among the New Zealanders, 1867. 112 The Launching of The Herald From a sketch by Mrs Henry Williams, January 1826. 113 War Canoes and Mission Boat From a sketch by Henry Williams reproduced in Carleton's Life. 113 Tohitapu From a sketch by Henry Williams, 1832. 192 Henry Williams Two sketches by T. B. Hutton, about 1846. (Rev. W. C. Cotton, journal, Mitchel Library, Sydney) 192 A Page from the Journal 6 January 1832. 193 Henry Williams's House at Paihia From a sketch by Henry Williams. (Auckland Institute & Museum) 208 Mrs Henry Williams From a daguerrotype, probably in the 1860s. (Auckland Institute & Museum) 208 William Williams (The Bishop of Christchurch, the Rt. Rev. A. K. Warren 209

Abbreviations

C.M.S. The Church Missionary Society Carleton H. Carleton: The Life of Archdeacon Henry Williams G.B.P.P. Great Britain Parliamentary Papers H.R.A. Historical Records of Australia H.W. The Rev. Henry Williams H.R.N.Z. Historical Records of New Zealand (McNab) J. Journal J.P.S. Journal of the Polynesian Society Marsden L. & J. The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden (Elder) O.L.C. Old Land Claims, New Zealand National Archives Record The Missionary Record Trans. N.Z. Inst. Transactions of the New Zealand Institute W.W. The Rev. William Williams

Note

The printed text of the journal follows the microfilm copy of the manuscript in the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington. No corrections of spelling or slips of the pen have been made. The only alterations have been some few additions in punctuation and the adoption of a uniform style for the dates of the journal entries. It will be noticed that the dates are sometimes confusing. These are as written. But a few obvious errors in the sequence of days have been corrected. The reader is referred to the index as a key to all Maori names with variant spellings.

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I December 1826 to December 1827

Brig captured by convicts — Wesleyans abandon Whangaroa — Hongi wounded — Problems with girls and ships — Threats of muru — Marsden arrives — N.Z. Colony in N.S.W. — Herald leaves for Sydney — Translation work — peacemaking parleys.

Thursday, 21 December 1826. We were interrupted for two hours this morning by the callg. of Cap. Clarke of the Harriet and his Doctor who are about to proceed to England: Has bread to spare but asks 25/- per cwt. It is grievous to be in the least dependant on these people. Took the opportunity to speak to them, upon our desire to hold service on board on Sunday morng. The Capn. said it would not be convenient next Sunday as the casks would be on deck &c. I told him that were we to consult our private feelings, we should not put ourselves to the inconvenience of going across; but that we considered it our duty, and as such offered our services. In the afternoon Te Koki

Te Koki, chief of Kawakawa and Paihia, protector of the Paihia missionaries and their helper in their efforts to end the tribal wars. In 1818 he sent his son, Te Ahara, to Marsden at Parramatta, where he died. As utu for his son's death, Te Koki asked Marsden for a missionary. Another son, Rangituke, was killed at Tamaki in 1828. Te Koki died in February 1829, and his wife, Hamu, a strong personality, went to live at Paihia with the missionaries.

with his wife and others, came down from the Kawakawa looking very ill; they wanted some smelling salts and blisters for the backs of their heads;—some good tea and bread appeared to revive them. In the eveng. I spoke to the natives in the settlement upon the necessity of a prepared state for death, particularly as they saw in every settlement such numbers ill.

Friday, 22. Some of our boys returned from Taiamai

Taiamai was one of the four mission districts attached to the Paihia mission. The name is often mentioned in missionary journals and letters, but it has long been out of use and is now difficult to locate. Marsden described it as a district in which several pas were situated. Richard Davis wrote of, “Taiamai at the foot of Pukenui”. Elder quotes L. G. Kelly as his authority in applying the name to a large, upstanding rock in a field about two miles south of Ohaeawai. [Marsden L. & J., p207f.]

where they had been to visit their sick friends. The father of one of them died the day before yesterday. The mother of another died ten days since; and numbers are ill. The natives ask so many questions about it and to some I say it is in consequence of the anger of our God. I told some on Sunday last that they could not expect anything else than the anger of the Lord while they continued in such wickedness, and would not bend to his invitations. I agreeably hope this universal illness may tend to their spiritual good.

Sunday, 24. After our morning service Mr. Fairburn

William T. Fairburn with his wife and two children arrived in the Bay of Islands on 3 August 1823, on the Brampton, with Marsden and Henry Williams. A carpenter, he helped Henry Williams to build the first house at Paihia. In 1833 he went with Henry Williams, A. N. Brown and John Morgan to the Thames and Matamata districts to explore the field for a mission station. As a catechist he accompanied John Morgan, James Preece and John A. Wilson to establish a station at Puriri. His son, Edward, became an accomplished Maori linguist and a progressive surveyor. His daughter, Elizabeth, married Colenso.

, Wim. Puckey and myself went on board the Emily, Cap. Brind

Captain Brind was captain of the Emily and afterwards of the Toward Castle whaling brigs, and a constant visitor to the Bay. He married, according to Maori custom, a daughter of Pomare, but was rather promiscuous in his affairs with Maori girls. His indiscretions caused the notorious “Girls' War”, and in that war he supplied arms to Pomare. Condemned by the missionaries, he retaliated by associating himself with Captain Peter Dillon in attacking their characters. Brind built and lived in a somewhat ornate house at Matawhi, near Kororareka.

for the purpose of holding divine service; but we were told that most of the crew was on shore not expecting me on board; also Cap. B. was on board the Harriet, which ship I had been told would not be disposed for our visit. We turned our course up the Kawa Kawa, to visit the natives; by whom we were much refreshed.

Monday, 25. The service as on the Sabbath: the day unfavourable for visiting the natives.

Tuesday, 26. Held a committee in the eveng. previous to the departure of the Herald

The schooner built at Paihia in 1825. [See Appendix IV.]

for the Colony: much engrossed through the day in writing and settling accounts. Wind fresh from the N.W.

Wednesday, 27. Wind continued the same. Concluded our committee

A regular meeting of the ordained missionaries with some others co-opted.

proceedings. In the eveng. the brethren returned to the Kedi Kedi

The old spelling for Kerikeri [See Appendix II.] The brethren were Messrs. J. Kemp and George Clarke.

overland. Our meetings upon all occasions are now very agreeable and refreshing. I trust by past experience, we are enable to appreciate our present blessings in this respect. The Herald ready for sea, but waiting a wind.

Thursday, 28. At daylight the wind from the N.E., and every appearance of a gale. The Herald got under weigh at 8 o'clock; in two hours she was out of sight and would doubtless get around the North Cape before midnight. Purchased 1160 1bs. of bread from Cap. Duke

Captain Robert Duke, a whaling captain, who resided at Kororareka to convalesce after a serious illness. He was master of the Sisters which took the Wellington back to Port Jackson after she was recaptured from her convict mutineers.

for the support of the schools.

Friday, 29. Wind from the N.E. In the afternoon heard unfavourable accounts, by natives, of the brethren at Rangihou

James Shepherd and John King. Rangihoua was the original station of the Church Missionary Society established by Marsden in 1814.

, that had been ill treated by the Napuis

Nagapuhi was the general name given to all the tribes in the Bay of Islands area.

('Hongi's

Hongi Hika, the distinguished Ngapuhi chief who at this period dominated the Maori tribes. In 1814 he visited Sydney with Kendall, and, returning to New Zealand with Marsden, gave his support in the establishing of the C.M.S. Mission. In 1820 in the whaler New Zealander he and his near relative, Waikato, visited England, where he assisted Kendall and Professor Samuel Lee in compiling a Maori grammar and dictionary. Much of his attention was given to the securing of arms, so that on his return to New Zealand he was able to begin his campaign of conquest. He died in 1828.

tribe) who had been quartered there for several days not being able to advance on their expedition against Wangaroa

This was the punitive expedition made by Hongi against the Ngati-Pou of Whangaroa, in which Hongi received the wound which resulted in his death fourteen months later. [Carleton, vol. I, p65n; Marsden L. & J., pp424, 428ff; Smith, Wars, pp196-7.]

, on account of the unfavourable weather. Not hearing anything further, we took no notice.

Sunday, 31. Weather unfavourable; every appearance of rain. After our service, I determined not to go to the shipping as I considered they would gladly take advantage of the state of the weather. Near twelve o'clock I was pleased at seeing a boat pulling towards the beach, which I concluded was for us; which was the case. Cap. Duke, on board of whose ship I had been requested to go, had mistaken the time. We assembled from thirty to forty persons amongst whom were three captains, one surgeon, &c. I preached from Job. 21.15. Their attention was great, and I felt thankful for the opportunity. At the commencement of our holding service on board the vessel we were apprehensive lest it might draw on a degree of intimacy which must not exist

Warned by the tragic fall of Kendall, the missionaries were forced to be careful not to encourage too close an intimacy with the whaling captains, not only because of the harm such intimacy might do to their reputations, but also because it might make it appear that they condoned the whalers' traffic in firearms and their immoral conduct with Maori women.

but I am happy to say, that the utmost respect is universally shewn to us, and doubt not of its happy consequence. When we go on board on these occasions the women, with which the shipping swarm, are studiosly put out of sight; this the natives do not fail to observe. We could not visit the natives, owing to the rain.

Monday, 1 January 1827. Early in the morning, while preparing to go to the Kedi Kedi to attend the Quarterly Meeting, Cap. Brind sent his boat to say that 'Hongi's party had left Rangihou the day before, for Wangaroa; but that they had beaten the missionaries and carried off most of the property. We were somewhat dismayed, but as Cap. Brind's information was through a native, we did not give full credit. Accordingly some of us went over, in our way to the Kedi Kedi. On our arrival we heard that the natives had been very insolent and trying; they had broken into the school, and had entered the houses in a very rude manner. Met the brethren at the Kedi Kedi, by 3 p.m., all well. The general appearance of the settlement has considerably improved of late, by their regular fences; it is a very pleasant place. In the eveng. we met for prayer; which is always a refreshing season. I gave an address from Mat. 10.8, latter part. We had much pleasing and profitable conversation. In a land like this, it is highly important that we meet together as we do, for relaxation from our daily occupation.

Tuesday, 2. Sat the whole day upon the Committee proceedings. Some discussion took place, upon some expressions in the missionary register

The Missionary Register was a monthly magazine of the Church Missionary Society which published regular reports on all its overseas stations. For many years it was used by historians as a primary source for details of the years before the Treaty of Waitangi. Its reports were culled from the missionary journals and letters sent to the Society, and suffered from distortions and inaccuracies through the ignorance of the compilers.

relative to N.Z. I sincerely hope that no intentions of mine may ever find their way into that publication; as it is a point admitted, that they cannot always be put into execution.

Wednesday, 3. Returned to Paihia

Paihia was the third missionary station in the Bay of Islands. Te Puna was the first station, Kerikeri the second, and Waimate the fourth to be established. The site was given by Te Koki's wife, Hamu. As utu for his son, who died at Parramatta, Te Koki demanded a missionary, and the Paihia mission station was established in 1823 under Henry Williams. In contradiction of some theories about the derivation of the name, it should be pointed out that Paihia was the long-established Maori name for the area.

: everything as we left them. Read a note from Cap. Duke, to state that he could spare another Butt of bread; and as the members of the Committee had expressed a desire that some should be bought, an order was accordingly given for it.

Friday, 5. At 8 o'clock, obs'd a brig standing in for the Bay: at 10 she came to an anchor. We obs'd a number of persons standg. aft and were in hope of news from Port Jackson, with an accession to the mission. Sent Mr. Fairburn with the boat, to fetch the bread from Cap. Duke, and, also to enquire the particulars of the vessel. In the course of two hours Mr. F. returned stating that there was every suspicion that the brig had been taken by prisoners from Port Jackson; and that the Captains of the two ships at anchor expressed a wish, that I should go over to see them; which I accordingly did. The brig certainly presented a very different scene from any I had ever before witnessed. The decks were crowded to excess, with very ill-looking fellows, about twenty under arms. The cabin was filled, and wine and spirits passed freely about. I did not say many words, but was soon fully aware what was the matter. In a little time Mr. Fairburn had some papers put privately into his hands, which gave a short statement of the vessel. She was the Wellington

This vessel “had been sent from Port Jackson with sixty-five felons to Norfolk Island. The sentence of death had been recorded against many of these men for crimes committed in the Colony. The felons took the Wellington and carried her into the Bay of Islands.” [Marsden L. & J., p424.]

out of Port Jackson, and bound to Norfolk Island with prisoners and stores for that settlement; and that the prisoners had set upon the guard and crew and possessed themselves of the vessel. Cap. Duke took the Convict Captain on board of his ship; when, after a few close questions to him, he confessed that she was in the possession of the prisoners: He bid us all defiance, stating that every man would sell his life very dear: he also produced a letter written by himself to the Governor, dictated in exceedingly impudent terms. It was then considered by the two captains, Duke and Clarke, and myself, what steps could be taken to recover the Brig and disperse the bandits. I proposed to fire some great guns and disable the vessel, but everyone appeared extremely fearful lest their vessels should in return be attacked. After much consultation, I left the ship, distressed at the idea that the vessel should escape. In the eveng. I made it a special point in prayer, that she might not be suffered to escape.

Saturday, 6. It blew fresh. Had no communication with the shipping. Numbers of canoes going over to Kororarica

Kororareka, now known as Russell, situated on the opposite side of the bay from Paihia, in 1826 was already well established as a resort for the crews of whaling vessels and a place of deserved ill reputation.

desirous to attack the Brig. The prisoners very impudent;—everyone much disturbed concerning the Brig; our thoughts all afloat.

Sunday, 7. At five o'clock were awoke by the firing of guns from the shipping, and the shot was flying about the Brig. Tho' it was distressing that the peace of the day should in this way be disturbed, still I felt a satisfaction that the Brig would be recovered, and the guard crew and passengers restored. The shipping fired at intervals, until 9 o'clock. All were greatly disturbed during service. At 10 o'clock a boat landed with a note to me, requesting that I would go over to control the natives at Kororarika, that no harm might befall the prisoners on their landing. As this was considered a case of great necessity, I did not hesitate to comply. On my arrival on board of Cap. Duke's vessel, I was happy to learn that the Sergeant of the Guard was released. I wished to have gone myself to have spoken to the prisoners, but was not allowed, as they had declared vengeance against me. The Chief Mate of the ship Sisters

This was Philip Tapsel, who later traded at Maketu. He was a Dane, who at the age of fourteen went to sea in a Danish brig, and assumed the name of Tapsel. During an adventurous life he came to New Zealand in the whaler New Zealander, and assisted in the punishment of Te Pahi for the destruction of the Boyd. In 1827 under Captain Duke in the Sisters, he came to the Bay of Islands and helped to recapture the brig Wellington from its convict mutineers. In 1830 he established himself as a trader at Maketu, but lost everything when Maketu was sacked by Te Waharoa in 1836.

negotiated for us with prisoners. We soon learnt with pleasure their intention of leaving the vessel; and by 5 o'clock all who intended to go on shore were out of the vessel, and she was in possession of the crew and guards. On their landing, many of them were stripped and furnished with native mats. I returned on shore with great satisfaction before sunset, where it caused considerable joy to hear of the repossession of the Brig.

Monday, 8. After breakfast felt it necessary to go on board to conclude the affair of yesterday. A survey was held upon the extent of damage done—masts, hull and rigging were very much wounded. Returned to dinner. We were exceedingly surprised that no effort was made or likely to be made, for the recovery of the prisoners; as the Cap. expressed himself afraid to put to sea with them.

Tuesday, 9. No communication with Cap. Duke.

Wednesday, 10. At 10 o'clock a.m. recd. a note from Mr. Turner

The Rev. Nathanael Turner, Wesleyan missionary, arrived at the Bay of Islands with Samuel Marsden and Henry Williams in 1823, and became colleague to the Rev. William White at Kaeo. In 1827 Hongi's warriors attacked the station and it was abandoned. Turner was appointed to Tonga, but in 1836 returned to New Zealand to take charge of the Wesleyan station at Mangungu. In 1839 he returned to New South Wales.

, stating their expectation of an attack upon them, by some of the tribes by whom they were then surrounded, in consequence of the present war with Natipo (a powerful tribe near Wangaroa) by 'Hongi and requesting us to go to their assistance to remove, at least the females to the Kedi Kedi. Mr. Davis'

Richard Davis came to New Zealand in 1824 as a missionary agriculturist of the C.M.S. He established a valuable garden at Paihia, and in 1831 created a farm at Waimate which was highly praised by Charles Darwin. He was ordained in 1843 and appointed to Kaikohe. He died in 1863.

eldest daughter was there, and I went, without loss of time, to the Kedi Kedi by water, and took as many of our boys as we could; intending to pass overland immediately, tho' it would be night travelling. On our arrival at the Kedi Kedi we were told that the Wangaroa settlement

The Wesleyan Mission in New Zealand originated in 1819 when the Rev. Samuel Leigh, then stationed in New South Wales, came to New Zealand for the benefit of his health on the recommendation of Samuel Marsden. The mission was established at Kaeo, Whangaroa, in 1823.

was upset at 5 a.m. and that the brethren were on their way through the woods. We hastened forward with refreshment for them expecting they had not partaken of any; and met them about six miles from the Kedi Kedi. They were in much better spirits than I expected to find them. We slung some chairs for the females, and conducted them safely. This affair was so sudden that I could not believe that anything had taken place for a length of time. It is very serious, and will materially affect us. At the Kedi Kedi, all things were in readiness for our friends. The chiefs here told us, that Messrs. Turner

The party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Turner and their three children, Messrs. Hobbs and Stack, and Luke Wade and his wife. The last named were the pakeha servants of the Wesleyan missionaries.

, &c. must not remain here, but pass on to Paihia: this was determined upon.

Thursday, 11. At daylight all in motion, preparing for our departure, but for different reasons, did not move till 10 o'clock. It was thought advisable, that everything of most value should be sent to Port Jackson by the Sisters as we might at each settlement expect before long like treatment with the brethren at Wangaroa. Arrived at Paihia to dinner; after which I was obliged to go on board of Cap. Duke, to hear what determination he had come to; and also to take a passage to Port Jackson for those of the Wesleyans who might go. It was then concluded that Cap. Duke should conduct the Brig, with the Prisoners, to Port Jackson, and use his utmost to recover them.

Friday, 12. At daylight began to pack up our books and all the spare clothing, reserving for one year. The boys about the settlement began to ask questions: we gave but few answers wishing that our movements should be as quiet as possible. At 6 received a note from the Kedi Kedi, stating that 'Hongi was severely wounded; and that should he die, the chiefs of the place had told them plainly they would be served as the brethren at Wangaroa were. Myself and Mr. Davis took the boat (the long boat had been sent in the morning), and arrived at midnight. All were up, and preparing to remove their valuable property by the boats at daylight.

Saturday, 13. At break of day everything ready for removing. Many singular remarks by the Natives, while conveying the cases and casks to the boats: some few Slaves about the settlement very insolent. In the eveng. a refreshing meetg. with the brethren, after a week the most eventful of any in New Zealand. On our way down from the Kedi Kedi, we called at Rangihua to learn how they were. Mr. Shepherd

James Shepherd, born at Sydney in 1796, visited New Zealand with Marsden in 1817. An expert gardener and agriculturist, in 1820 he was sent to the Bay of Islands to satisfy Te Morenga's request for a missionary. In 1823 he went to Kaeo, but when Leigh was removed because of illness he went to Te Puna. Later at Paihia he assisted the Rev. William Williams in the translation of the New Testament which was published in 1837. In 1840 he was appointed to Whangaroa where he remained for thirty-seven years.

was very unwell with a sore throat; Mr. King

John King was an English cobbler, who in 1809 at the age of twenty-two, entered the service of the C.M.S. and took lessons in flax-dressing and twine-spinning. Arriving at Rangihoua in 1814, he acted as a catechist and taught the local Maoris agriculture.

well. Ware Poaka

Wharepoaka was a son of Rakau, of Rangihoua, of the Hikutu hapu and was one of Hongi's fighting chiefs. He was a brother of Waikato. William Williams called him “a chief of mild manners and great intelligence”. [W.W., Journal, 30 April 1826.]

, the chief of that place, had expressed his fears that the missionaries would be driven away from the Island; and said that should that be the case, he would leave with them; all our natives have said the same. Capn. Duke today requested that service might not be held on the morrow.

Sunday, 14. It was pleasing to observe how appropriate the services for the day were, with our present feelings. Our congregation was large; some driven out of their homes, and the remainder looking for it; but each willing to submit to the direction of the Lord. Our situation in many respects must be considered as trying, yet each possessed a composure of mind more than usual. We may be required to withdraw, but for a season. We certainly shall stand here as long as any; and should we be enabled to hold on, we shall learn a lesson which has never so clearly been brought to our minds. My mind was much occupied, with the idea of forming a New Zealand colony

The plan developed as a result of the attack on the Wesleyan station at Kaeo. This left the C.M.S. missionaries with a feeling of insecurity, which was not lessened by the certainty that, at that period, the death of Hongi, or that of any of the leading chiefs, would be the occasion of an attack on them. If that happened, the plan was to establish in New South Wales a colony consisting of the missionaries and their families, the Christian Maoris and such other Maoris who would be willing to go. The idea came to nothing because by the time of Hongi's death the missionaries had become well established among the tribes. Had Hongi died earlier than he did, there is no doubt but that the mission stations would have suffered severely. This plan must not be confused with that of Marsden's “Seminary”. [Marsden L. & J., p446f.]

in Port Jackson, in the event of leaving this island. Numbers of Chiefs and others have frequently asked if they could not be taken to some other place where there are no Natives, and removed from the scene of war and sit quietly by themselves. Could 50,000 acres of land be granted for this purpose in the Colony, I feel persuaded that very many would gladly avail themselves of a prospect of fleeing from those wars which so continually distract the Island. There they have no encouragement to improve in husbandry, &c., as no man's property is his own. Every chief is liable to be plundered, as soon as his crop is ripe; this is universal: but perhaps more of this hereafter. About 9 o'clock, a messenger from the Kedi Kedi brought a letter to state that 'Hongi was dead, and they hourly expected to be turned out of doors and plundered of everything. Our boat was sent up immediately to fetch Mrs. Clark, as she was not well: the remainder to stand to the last. We felt thankful to the Lord that our minds were preserved free from that anxiety which might be expected; believing that, be it as it might, He would ever rule all to the Glory of His Majesty.

Monday, 15. At daylight the boat returned from the Kedi Kedi, and confirmed the news of 'Hongi's death: the brethren hourly expected to be plundered; but strong in the Lord. Sent our cases on board the Sisters for Port Jackson. The Natives considered we were in earnest indeed. In the course of the day sent between 20 and 30 cases on board. Towards evening, some Chiefs came to ask what we intended to do. We told them, to send our property on board, but we should sit still till driven out. They said, that was well; but that no one should touch us, unless they were first killed. They said if Tikoki, the Chief of this district, were dead, then we might be afraid; but that 'Hongi's death would not affect us. However, this is a doctrine we have never before been apprehensive of, and must greatly disturb our peace among them. In the evening the boat went up to the Kedi Kedi, to learn the state of the brethren.

Tuesday, 16. Sent the remainder of our cases on board. Tikoki came early this morning to hear what were our movements. We told him we should sit still until driven away. He was satisfied, and said that we need not fear; for that as soon as it was known that any people were coming, all the Natives round about would collect and stand in our defence. After giving instructions, to some Chiefs to remain by us, he returned to his plantation up the Kawa Kawa. About 4 p.m., the boat returned from the Kedi Kedi. The brethren still under fear. Several Natives had been remaining by them, considered to be in readiness for plunder, waiting only the confirmation of the death of 'Hongi. They sent down several articles of clothing.

Wednesday, 17. After breakfast one of the boats with Messrs. Turner &c. went to Rangihua to see the brethren and enquire their state of mind. On their return, they reported that the brethren were quiet; but that the Natives were in considerable fear, and were desirous to remove both themselves and missionaries to a more advantageous situation for defence. Three back loads of clothing belonging to Mr. Turner brought from 'Hokianga, to be redeemed. After much consideration, six articles of trade were given; but it was concluded that nothing more should be bought.— In the evening, 9 o'clock, a messenger from the Kedi Kedi, with letters for England and the Colony, and a note stating that all was yet suspense: no intelligence from any party, the Natives in the house: jealous on that account: and Ware Nui

Wharenui, of Paroa, more commonly called Wharerahi, was one of the most influential of the Ngapuhi chiefs of the period, and for many years was a peacemaker among the northern tribes. He was a brother of Rewa and Moka.

, (the elder brother of Rewa)

Rewa, or Maanu, of the Ngaitawake section of Ngapuhi, was a brother of Wharerahi and Moka, and one of Hongi's leading generals. After the death of Hongi and Pomare he became the greatest of the Ngapuhi commanders. Marsden was greatly impressed by his ability and character. He became a Christian and assisted Henry Williams in the task of establishing among the tribes a regime of law and order. He was involved in the “Girls' War”, but actively assisted the missionaries in the endeavour to find a settlement. He died in 1862.

who had come from 'Hokianga

For a note on the spelling, see Appendix II.

, told us that numbers were wishing to upset the Kedi Kedi settlement, and were all on the expectation: I believe it to be true.

Thursday, 18.—2 o'clock. Intelligence has just arrived from the Kawa Kawa, that Ware Nui has sent an express to them, to be on their guard, as the Napuis were coming to this settlement. Took the opportunity to bury £50 in dollars in the garden: took up part of one plank in the floor, in order to deposit some bundles of children's clothes.

Friday, 19. Last night late, a letter from Kedi Kedi stated that 'Hongi was not dead yet, but had been shot through the breast; and should he die, they are told, they had better remove from the Island. It is however concluded by us, that they keep their post until they hear of the death of 'Hongi, and then send off the women and children; the men remaining to see the result. The Lord will doubtless direct that which shall be right. We have seen him in all time a present help and he will still stand by us. The arrival of the Prisoners in the Bay is a remarkable providence which the ship Sisters has been directed to Port Jackson at this period, to convey Mr. Turner and family and our property, as also to convey to our friends there a state of our condition. The ship is now under weigh.

Saturday, 27. The Wesleyan brethren had afternoon orders to embark, as Cap. Duke wished to sail in the morng. at daybreak with the land breeze: the Prisoners were all now double ironed. In the evening held, in all probability, our last meeting with our friends who had all accompanied us to this island. After commending each other in prayer to the Lord, I accompanied them to the ship. Their quarters were very comfortable: every appearance of a land breeze during the night. The Napuis were on the beach, very troublesome to the Shipping.

Sunday, 28. The Sisters and Wellington weighed and made sail, with a light air off shore. During our morning service a continued firing of musketry at Kororarika; by which we were considerably disturbed not knowing their intention, but expecting them over to our side. At noon held divine service on board the Emily, Cap. Brind: was much pleased with their attention. Learnt that numbers of canoes from the Kawa Kawa and Waikari had come down to meet the Napuis; and that peace had been established. On my return to Paihia was told that two stripping parties had been at Waitangi, at one of which a man had received a severe cut on the head with a hatchet. Remained at home this afternoon, as all was uproar without. Assembled in the evening as usual. About 8 o'clock, heard that a party was coming in the night to burn the Houses, owing to some disturbance on the other side of the bay; and that Tikoki had given orders to keep a good lookout; our men and boys got under arms to keep watch, with orders to ring the great bell if anything was the matter. We retired to rest without much fear, believing that the Great Shepherd of Israel would be our protector.

Monday, 29. At daylight heard considerable firing from the Waikari. Several canoes filled with men passed the settlement: about 10 o'clock they returned. In the afternoon we were told that a large party was on their way to this place, for the purpose of stripping

This is the missionaries' translation of muru, to plunder. Muru was an ancient custom of plundering an individual, or a group, for an offence against the tribe. Any person who suffered from an accident or from an illness was regarded as having committed an injury against the tribe, and so was “stripped” as a punishment. The greater the rank of the person, the greater was the offence regarded, and the act of muru was looked upon as a compliment to the person plundered.

us, when they were met by Tikoki and turned up the river: had they had a little start, there is no doubt but that we should have been obliged to follow the example of the Wesleyan brethren; as Tikoki had stripped an Englishman on the opposite side yesterday, and destroyed his house out of revenge for some property of his, which had been stolen out of a tapued house of his some months since. Our situation, to all human appearances, is as uncertain as possible: a single accident either of our own or our natives, may prove the destruction of our mission: numbers would gladly avail themselves of any pretence, to seize both us and what we may possess: yet I cannot say that anyone of our number is cast down. We are seated amongst combustable matter.

Tuesday, 13 February. Mr. Hamlin

James Hamlin, an English flax-dresser and weaver, came with the Rev. William Williams to the Bay of Islands in 1826. At Waimate and at Kerikeri he worked as a catechist. In 1835 he went to Mangapouri and in 1836 was given charge of the Manukau station. When he went to Wairoa, Hawkes Bay, in 1844, he was ordained deacon, and in 1863 was ordained priest.

arrd. early this morning from the Kedi Kedi, stating that the last accounts of 'Hongi were very unfavourable, that his wound was offensive and he was unable to move; that he had expressed a desire that someone shall go and see him: but from the present unsettled state of affairs, it was considered imprudent for anyone to move in that direction, as many natives are concealed in the woods, who would not hesitate to kill all who should fall in their way for the sake of plunder and food. For many days all has been perfectly silent. The account has just arrived, of the slaughter of a considerable number of men women and children towards the North Cape, the remnant of the people against whom 'Hongi had been fighting: They were killed treacherously by the people amongst whom they had sought refuge; and their bodies distributed for a repast; ten slaves have passed this settlement laden with human flesh; and considerable quantities have been sent to other districts. Yesterday morning when we arose, it was discovered that four of the girls had run away in the night; but nothing was missed. Upon enquiry, it appeared that they had been decoyed by girls who frequent the ships: these were, however, very little girls whom we had considered safe, for some years. We are much cast down in consequence, for it is, perhaps, the severest blow our school has yet received; for though it is no uncommon thing for the girls, as soon as they have learnt to sew, wash &c., to go off to the Shipping; yet that girls so young should wish to pursue so abandoned a course, is distressing indeed. I cannot think that females anywhere are faster within satan's grasp than these. Independent of any wish they may have to go on board the shipping, they are urged by their parents and relatives. The Captains and crews offer them that which to a New Zealander is irresistible,—muskets, powder and oil. The conduct of our countrymen in this respect is shocking: they are the destroyers to this people, both soul and body. Were it not for the promise of the Lord, that his people shall not labour in vain, that his word shall not return unto him void, surely our strength would fail.

Friday, 23. Yesterday morng. Mr. Clark

George Clarke, an English gunsmith, came to New Zealand in the French corvette Coquille in 1824. Stationed at Kerikeri, he won the friendship of Hongi, and soon became proficient in the Maori language. Governor Hobson appointed him Protector of Aborigines in 1841, but five years later Governor Grey abolished the office. Clarke was then appointed New Zealand secretary of the Church Missionary Society, but with Henry Williams was dismissed in 1849. For a term he represented the Bay of Islands on the Auckland Provincial Council, and for some years was a judge of the Native Land Court.

came and stated, that 'Hongi's wound had healed up; but his arm had swolen to a considerable size; and that he had again sent over wishing that someone would go and see him. It was consequently considered proper that my brother, with one of the Kedi Kedi brethren, should go round by water, as being less dangerous than going over land. They set off by 4 o'clock; but as the weather came up boisterous, they put back. This morng. being fine, they have gone over land. At noon recd. a note from Mr. King. The news from that quarter was, that it had been declared the preceeding eveng. by a large party which had landed from the neighbourhood of Wangaroa on their way to the scene of the action to the Southd.

This was the expedition led by Te Koki's son, Rangituke, who was killed at Tamaki.

that 'Hongi had stated, that as soon as he should be recovered he should come round and take us all away to reside near him. Warepoaka had recommended that, should we not be willing to go with 'Hongi, we had better withdraw to Port Jackson. The Natives at Rangihoo were in considerable fear. Upon this subject our minds are at perfect ease, knowing that our path of duty will be evident should such steps be entered upon. The natives on all sides are going to the war against those amongst whom Pomare

Pomare, a powerful chief whose pa, Otuihu, was situated at the junction of the Kawakawa and Waikare rivers, opposite the present wharf at Opua. He was one of Hongi's leading chiefs. Originally named Whetoi, he took the name of Pomare from the ruling chief at Tahiti, who greatly impressed him. In 1826 he was killed at Te Rore, near Matakitaki, in the Waikato, and was succeeded by his nephew, Whetoi, who also assumed the name of Pomare.

met his death. Thus are they driven hither and thither at the will of their great master. We shall learn the state of 'Hongi's body, and perhaps of his mind, on the return of my brother.

Saturday, 24. Tikoki came down the river, on his way to the river Thames

The Thames Estuary. “Cook gave the name of Thames River to what is now known as the Hauraki Gulf, the Firth of Thames, and the Waihou River.” [McNab, Tasman to Marsden, p27.]

; the scene of action. We had some conversation upon the war, and reminded him of his brother who had been killed some months since, and of others also. Both he and his people appeared shy of speakg. upon the subject, and when I proposed having some flour boiled for them, they said they must go across the river and not remain. We saw this afternoon, an instance of the eagerness of some of our boys to obtain powder. A boat landed from the Ship at anchor; it was reported immediately that powder was to be purchased for mats. Some of our boys, who had handsome ones which they had refused to us left their work and procured a small quantity of this dust, which they delivered up to their friends going to fight. I cannot perceive any change in the natural disposition; but as soon as an opportunity is afforded they shew their warlike propensity or rather, their thirst for blood; for I do not think them brave, but the reverse.

Sunday, 25. After service, went across the river for the purpose of conversing with Tikoki and his party: found only a few women and children, as the old man had gone early in the morng. out of the bay. I do not remember a party going away so quietly, and consider that they chose the opposite side of the river to depart from, that they might be less subject to our observation; thereby showing their sensibility of the impropriety of their conduct. I endeavoured to draw the attention of the women, but as they had all been educated on board a ship from their childhood, they were inanimate subjects to speak to on the things of Jesus Christ.—The natives up the river confirmed the report from Rangihou, respectg. 'Hongi's intention of obliging us to go and reside with him.

Monday, 26. In the afternoon my brother returned from Wangaroa, with the account that 'Hongi was much better than he had expected: the ball had passed through the lungs, but there was every prospect of his recovering to be removed to the Kedi Kedi in a few days: the majority of the natives around appear sorry that he is not dead, as he is a common disturber.

Thursday, 15 March. At daylight, the Herald was observed working into the bay. Went on board immediately, and was happy to hear all were well; tho somewhat cast down at the news of Mr. Strong

Mr Strong was expected as an addition to the missionary staff in the Bay of Islands, but was diverted to another field.

being directed to India: The greatest supply of letters ever yet received, which took more than the remainder of the day to read. Tho excluded from those we hold dear; yet what blessings are conferred upon us: all our friends and relatives are well, and are much interested in the work in which we are engaged. I cannot but feel that I feel no more; that that fervent spirit is not possessed by me who am here, which is so apparent in those letters now before us; yet such have been the dealings of the Lord that I cannot but hope he has a work for us to do. We need great grace, and the daily remembrance of the servants of the Lord. The enemy has been busy of late; but thanks be to God who giveth us the victory, through our Lord Jesus Christ. Mr. King arrived about noon.

Friday, 16. At 10 a.m., Messrs. Kemp

James Kemp, a Norfolk smith, who came to the Bay of Islands in 1819 with the Rev. J. G. Butler. Stationed at Kerikeri, he helped to build the school and served as smith, storekeeper and schoolteacher until 1852. He died in 1872.

and Shepherd arrived; all well at the other settlements. A considerable number of natives at the Kedikedi on the eve of departure to the war. In the afternoon assembled the committee; when it was determined the Herald should return to the Colony for stores, as none had come down exceptg. flour, but that she should previously go to Tauranga for potatoes;—Read the public letters. our opinions will be given at the general committee. By a letter from Mr. Marsden, he may be expected down in a Man of War:—what stay he is likely to make we cannot tell.

Saturday, 17. Could not land any casks here owing to the surf on the beach: sent some up the Kedikedi.

Sunday, 18. After service, I went on board the Whaler laying at Kororareka, to perform divine service: the Captain officers and crew very attentive. I afterwards went up the river, and spoke to some natives from the Kawakawa. With great difficulty I induced them to attend, as a fighting party had the day before returned to the bay of islands, and every two or three minutes they would break off to talk over the news. Spiritual intercourse with the natives is very low and inanimate at this time: they are all bent on mischief. Satan is exercising all his power to draw them aside from attending to the Gospel of peace. I do not know of one enquirer after truth, tho many are glad to see us when we go amongst them.

Monday, 19. Endeavoured to land some casks, but could not owing to the surf: much time was lost. In the afternoon, as the tide was ebbing, determined to fix some posts into the sand on the beach, and run out a wharf as far as the low water mark: upon which we immediately went to work, and by sunset had twelve piles firmly fixed.

Tuesday, 20. At daylight as the tide was out, assembled to conclude the wharf; and to lay the platform, upon which to roll the casks; which was concluded before high water: the whole length of it with the assistance of four casks and a pair of wheels, was upwards of fifty yards; all were much pleased with the performance and to see how little the sea affected it: we consider with a little more work upon it that it may remain for several years, and will prove a valuable acquisition. In the afternoon landed a number of heavy casks with great ease.

Wednesday, 21. The Herald was cleared.

Thursday, 22. This morning reports are in circulation that 'Hongi, who is nearly well, is on the way to the bay, to clear all before him. The natives at Rangihoo and those in our neighbourhood are in considerable alarm. Our friend Toi tapu

Tohitapu, chief of the Roroa tribe, whose pa was at Haumi. He was a famous warrior and tohunga. To him fell the body of Captain Marion Dufresne for the cannibal feast after the massacre of him and his crew in 1772. [Carleton, pp38–9.]

tells us they will not come to this settlement. Another little girl left my brother's house; owing to a slight reproof.

Friday, 23. One of the girls left Mrs. Fairburn, because she did not think proper to comply with her wish to go up the Kawakawa to assist in the takg. up of the Kumaras.

Saturday, 24. At sunrise a considerable number of canoes were observed coming across the bay, towards Kororarika: supposed them to be the Napuis and could not conjecture the extent of their intention: a number of canoes had previously gone there, with a large party from Hokianga. We expected some shocking proceedings, as the canoes approached with apparent caution. In the course of the morning, much firing. We could not understand their movements, tho we could see them very plainly by the aid of our glasses. In the afternoon, heard that the natives intended clearing the bay of all the food they could collect, and that only one man had yet been killed. No canoes attempted to come near us during the day.

Sunday, 25. While in the midst of our service, a considerable firing commenced at Kororarika; which required much exertion necessary to keep our minds quiet. After service it was concluded that we should go across, and unfold the word of the Lord to them. When prepared to proceed, we obsd. all the canoes under sail, and could not at first understand whither they were bound; some appeared coming to us, others to the Herald, and the remainder for the Kawakawa. Six or seven canoes landed on our beach, and soon put us in motion; but as the Chiefs appeared quiet, I assembled them and spoke to them for a length of time. The rest of the brethren went to other parties, at some short distance off. A quantity of corn and potatoes was landed. The strangers behaved well during the eveng.

Monday, 26. At daylight the Herald weighed and made sail out of the bay with a light breeze, for Tauranga: Messrs. R. Davis and Shepherd on board, for the purpose of purchasing the cargo. During the morng. I attempted to purchase some potatoes and corn; our settlement being filled with natives and several following me for that purpose. As we had not any blankets to part with, nor any oil, our bartering was very limited. Several times the natives appeared disposed for mischief: they cleared the native settlement of everything, and broke into some of our out buildings and some of our gardens: but did not any material damage, owing to a good look out on our part. It appeared that they had assembled at the 'Haumi, the settlement of Toi Tapu, for the purpose of removing the bones of his son; and the natives all around were expected there. By noon the natives withdrew. In the eveng., we learnt by our natives, that they had nearly determined in the morng. upon the stripping of us; and certainly by their general appearance we may judge that they were fully prepared. Several of the girls who had lived with Mrs. Turner, were amongst them, and seemed glad to see us, and to wish to come and live with us. After some conversation with them, three of them came in, for that purpose, and began to clean themselves. In about two hours, as the female school had just commenced, a party of men came to demand them; stating that they should not remain, as they would be killed by Tikoki. With very great reluctance they went out to their relations, and remained crying by the gate. We were all much hurt, the hand of the wicked one was so evident. In the eveng. another little girl ran away from my sister's house.

Tuesday, 27. After the morng. school we all went to the 'Haumi to witness the ceremony to be performed over the bones of Toi Tapu's son. They commenced by singing the Pihe (death song); after which several came forward and addressed the assembly, in reference to their general movements. Some proposed the destruction of one place, others of another; most of them made allusion to the excellence of the blankets from us, whether in jest or in earnest we do not know, but evidently pointing out the benefit of helping themselves as they had done at Wangaroa; returned by 10 o'clock. I saw 'Hongi for the first time since he was wounded, but did not say much to him. Towards sunset, my brother and myself again paid them a visit. We had much conversation with 'Hongi and Toi Tapu, and with others, upon the necessity of turng. to the Lord. They enquired much upon the resurrection of the body and were much struck with what we said to them. The relations of the Wangaroa girls, who left us yesterday, said that they might return to us in the morng.; and expressed their wish that they might remain with us. This was accordingly agreed to. Our boys were much pleased, as they had to attend to the whole work of the house.

Wednesday, 28. Early this morng., the girls who had lived with Mrs. Turner at Wangaroa came to our gate, with several of their relations; and according to what was said yesterday, four of them who had the approbation of their friends were taken into the house and clothed. It was truly gratifying to see with what cheerfulness they took their work in hand. In the course of the morng. more of their relations came and expressed a desire that some wages should be given in advance, otherwise the girls should not remain. To this we paid no attention. The boys about the settlement told me to be jealous of the girls and their friends, as they probably intended to decamp in the night with what they might be able to lay their hands upon: of this we were aware, and of this we are in danger by every girl who comes into the house. I therefore considered it our duty to give them every countenance, behaving as the girls did: they were not strangers to us, tho their relatives were. In the afternoon the application for blankets for payment was made again by the relations; which I rejected, as being contrary to the usual custom: but as they appeared dissatisfied, I desired them to call the girls out. Two of them came out, and scolded their friends for wishg. to take them away; upon which little more was said on the subject. In the eveng. the girls appeared very happy: were all sitting at their work around the table, and spoke of their satisfaction at being again in a Missionary family: their writing and work did great credit to Mrs. Turner. On their retiring for the night they were furnished each with a blanket, and their door locked. About half past ten o'clock, we heard their door closed and upon examination I soon discovered that the four girls had indeed flown, together with the cloths which had been given to them; but the blankets and all the cookg. utensils were remaining. This we cannot understand for had they been desirous to steal: why should they go empty handed; their cloths are of little value to them at their own places: had they not wanted to steal, why take their clothes: but daylight will reveal it more clearly to us. I fear satan is the author of this: he is raging on every side. In our prayer meeting this eveng. the females were particularly mentioned: they need our ernest supplication. It is a season for great humiliation, faith, and patience. We are much cast down.

Thursday, 29. At daylight I sent one of the boys to see whether the girls had returned to their friends, or whether they had run to hide in the Fern as some had stated was the case, until the canoes should have departed. The news soon arrived that they were with their friends. One of the girls had wished to stop, but was ashamed when left alone. Our spirits were much affected through the day.— About noon a considerable party arrived at the settlement, which appeared disposed to mischief. I was obliged to take a spear from one very impudent youth; after which they were better behaved, and dispersed without further molestation. Some of the clothing taken by the girls was returned. In the latter part of the day, about a hundred natives passed through, on a plundering expedition to the Waitangi, about a mile distant, and returned about sunset, laden with everything they could scrape together.

Friday, 30. After dinner we had another disturbance with some of 'Hongi's party; which did not last long. My brother and myself paid a visit to 'Hongi: he appeared poorly. I think he cannot recover from his wound; but my brother is of a different opinion. Some more of the clothing returned.

Saturday, 31. About 10 o'clock, all of 'Hongi's party in their canoes came round to our beach. Of this we had not had any notice. The place was covered in a few minutes with people running in different directions; some to our fence to gaze, others for firewood, for which purpose they would take everything they could seize. It required every prudence on our part to keep them in any kind of order. A few were very insolent, and would ask what consequence of takg. the fencing or anything else? did we not know that we should have the houses pulled down, the same as those at Wangaroa? However, by the males walkg. and talkg. amongst them, good humour was preserved. In about two hours, a large party came from Waitangi, to meet the Napui's; with whom they had a grand Haka. About two o'clock, we were greatly rejoiced to perceive that the canoes were on the departure; and in the course of an hour they were all under weigh exceptg. 'Hongi and a few of his friends, who remained for medical advice. Of these we had no apprehensions; therefore, our gates, which before had been chained up, were now thrown open. Upon the whole, the party behaved well; far better than we expected. The native settlements again were all plundered, but we did not lose anything. We much enjoyed our prayer meeting owing to the absence of our late visitors.

Sunday, 1 April. The morning fine, and perfectly quiet; service as usual: administered the sacrament. After some refreshment, I went to the 'Haumi, the place of Toi Tapu. He called his people, who were very attentive. I endeavoured to shew them, by the late transaction, the need of a change of heart, and the means to be used; that by the command of the God of Heaven and Earth, we had come to shew them the glad tidings of the gospel of peace: their attention was pleasing. I told them that Jesus Christ was, by us, daily calling to them to turn to him; who would give them his holy spirit if they asked him for it. On my return, had some conversation with 'Hongi's people: their security was evidently in their guns. I asked them, why they could not sit still? why they could delight thus in war? We must soon die, but that there would be a resurrection of just and unjust, &c. I pointed out the nature of Heaven and Hell, which last, they in a measure comprehended, comparing it to White Island off Tauranga, which is a volcano. We universally conclude with the invitation of our Lord, for all to flee to him for refuge. 'Hongi's heart is as hard as flint; he has no pleasure even in conversing upon these subjects, which most other people do, if it be no more than to hear some new thing. Many of his party have been carried off lately.

Thursday, 5. In the afternoon, a large ship hove in sight which I was soon convinced was a Man of War

H.M.S. Rainbow.

: the wind off the shore. About four o'clock my brother and myself went off to her, concluding that Mr. Marsden was on board, which proved to be the case. The old gentleman appeared to be happy once more to be with us, and to find that all were well. The Captain, the Hon. — Rous

Captain the Hon. H. J. Rous. afterwards Admiral, was a son of the first Lord Stradbroke. In the House of Commons debate on New Zealand in 1845, he warmly defended Governor Fitzroy. One of the early explorers of Australia, he discovered in 1829 the Richmond and Clarence rivers. Ipswich in Queensland Stradbroke Island and the County of Rous were named in his honour. [Marsden L. & J., p424.]

, and officers behaved with great politeness. We landed about 8 o'clock. The settlement was in instant motion, as numbers of Natives had assembled at the landing place to secure the boat, and Mr. Marsden's name sounded forth from many voices. The stay of the ship was likely to be very short, and Mr. M. was to return by her: we therefore had not any time to lose; but could not proceed regularly to business, owing to the absence of the brethren.

Friday, 6. Dispatched a messenger to the Kedikedi and Rangihou. Before noon Mrs. W. was delivered of her fifth son

John William Williams who represented the Bay of Islands in the Provincial Council from 1863 to 1865, and represented Mongonui and the Bay of Islands in Parliament from 1873 to 1879. He died in 1904.

. Several of the Officers of the Man of War on Shore. At 4 o'clock Messrs. Kemp and Clarke arrived from the Kedi Kedi. We accordingly proceeded to business. Upon the question of the children's education I was somewhat surprised to observe the general opinion in favour of a colonial education; my brother and myself were opposed to all the rest: nothing concluded.

Saturday, 1. At daylight observed the Herald working into the bay, and a Whaler, supposed to be the Sisters. Were greatly hindered this morng. by the Officers of the Rainbow. About noon we again assembled upon the question; Messrs. Davis and Shepherd havg. landed from the Herald, which had brought a full cargo of potatoes and some flax. The question was again entered upon, relative to the education of the children, when I stood alone for the education of the children in N.Z. It was therefore given against me. Mr. M. accompanied the Kedikedi brethren to the settlement, to remain the Sunday with them. In the eveng. I requested my brother, who is the secretary, to state my disapprobation to the decision of the committee: this led to further discussion and it was therefore concluded that the question should be renewed on Monday.

Sunday, 8. Much wearied for want of rest— a quiet day.

Monday, 9. On the return of Mr. Marsden, the question of the education of the children was again brought forward, and in a short time concluded; when it was determined, that the children should be educated in N.Z. Mr. Marsden entered with much apparent interest, upon the idea of a New Zealand settlement in Port Jackson; that is to say, within the Colony. Our ideas corresponded generally, yet differed widely as to distance. He thinks that it should be situated between Sydney and Parramatta; we that it should not be within one hundred miles of Sydney; that the natives should not be subject to visits from the curious intruders, nor have it in their power to retreat upon very slight pretence: but it was left open for further discussion, both here and in Port Jackson.

Tuesday, 10. At daylight, Mr. Marsden and my brother departed for Rangihoo; but did not proceed far, as the Man of War was preparing for sea. Between eight and nine, she weighed and made sail with a fair wind; and before the boat could reach the shore, she was around the north head and separated from us our venerable friend, after a stay of four days. Several points remained undetermined.

Wednesday, 11. Resumed our meeting at the language; which considerably refreshed us, after so great an interruption as we have had for many days past. Mr. Charles Davis

Charles Davis was no relation of Richard Davis, although he came to New Zealand with him. A carpenter, he remained four years serving as a catechist and, in 1828, returned to England where he married. On their journey back to New Zealand, he and his wife were lost when the ill-fated Haweis disappeared without trace.

has been unwell for the last fortnight, and continues in a somewhat alarming state. While in conversation with some of the Natives relative to the formation of a N.Z. settlement in the colony, Toi Tapu asked me why we were going away, for that 'Hongi was getting better, and will not die for a great time; and that while he lives he will protect us. I then asked him what would be the case when he does die. He replied, we must then look out. This point is not in the least disguised by any of the Chiefs around; and to all human prospects we shall have to look out when that event takes place. During the period of 'Hongi's stay, when his attendants were surrounding us, they frequently asked us what we wd. do in opposition to them? and even asked, what cared they for Hongi now? for he was lame, he was an old woman and could do nothing.

Sunday, 15. Service as usual; after which I went on board the Sisters, and met a very respectable congregation. But few natives were to be found near the settlement, excepting 'Hongi's party, who are at all times but little disposed to spiritual conversation. The eveng. closed as usual.

Monday, 16. As Mrs. W. was sufficiently recovered to admit of my attending the committee, we proceeded to the Kedi Kedi, according to appointment; where we met all the brethren in good health, and glad of an opportunity to assemble in quietness after so many anxious seasons. Our prayer meeting was refreshing to all, and I trust we obtain much support and encouragement by thus uniting our supplications at the throne of grace.

Tuesday, 17. The business occupied our close attention during the whole day, and closed at 10 p.m. The question of a settlement to be formed in New South Wales, by Mr. Marsden's request, was entered upon with considerable interest when it was concluded to consider it more fully at the Rangihoo meeting.

Wednesday, 18. After some delay in the Store, we returned to Paihia, leaving Mr. Davis, for the purpose of killg. some of the bullocks. The only little girl who had been remaining in the house was taken out of the house by her relatives, a short time previous to my landing; but an elder girl who had been out for the last two months was very desirous to be taken in again, which was complied with. This tended to revive our drooping spirits, in reference to the girls school; for it appeared that the evil one was working every kind of mischief in the minds of the people. 'Hongi and his party removed to Wangaroa, which was a considerable relief to us; they endeavoured to steal everything that came in their way, though their opportunities were but few.

Thursday, 19. Examined the keel of our vessel, the Herald; which had been hauled on shore on Motu o rangi

Motu-o-rangi, a small island opposite Paihia.

, for that purpose. Obsd. that it was eaten nearly to the plank from the bottom, by the worm. In the course of the day, held a survey on it, with the assistance of the Carpenter of the ship Sisters and ourselves: upon maturely examining it was considered necessary to condemn the present one, and put a new one in: this will be attended with much expense and loss of time. I cast all blame from my own shoulders, having been left entirely in the dark as to the wishes of the Parent Committee respecting her: perhaps the expense of putting in a new keel, may equal the price of copper for her bottom.

Sunday, 22. Services as usual. The Capn. of the Indian attended, as his ship was very much lumbered up with casks. I afterwards visited three settlements towards Waitangi. The first a few Natives from inland; the second a company of Ship girls; lastly the brother of Christian Rangi

Christian Rangi was an old chief of Te Parawhau hapu of Whangarei, who came to Waitangi with his family in 1824. “The people of Bream Bay, Whangarei, who were Hongi's allies, felt insecure in their position, which was a sort of borderland between the hostile tribes; and through fear of the Thames natives they came to live at the Bay of Islands.” [W.W., Christianity among the New Zealanders, p60.] Rangi was the first Maori chief baptized into the Christian faith. His brothers were Wini and Tioka. [H.W. to C.M.S., 10 September and 26 December 1825. W.W., Journal, 28 May 1826.]

and some of his friends: this man is a very hopeful character. In the eveng. we heard that the fighting parties, when on their return, had narrowly escaped being killed; but we could not rely on the report.

Tuesday, 24. The account of the return of the parties from the Thames was confirmed: those natives we saw were much ashamed. We could not but feel thankful to the Lord, for turning the people back; and hope it may give a check to their thirst for war. We have often prayed that they might be confounded in their wicked imaginations, and trust that this is an answer to our prayers. Engaged two Ship wrights, lately belonging to Cap. Hird, to work on the keel of the vessel, at 7/6 per day.

Wednesday, 25. Several natives lately returned were about most of the day. It appears they were in a very critical situation when they met the enemy, and were very glad to retreat; and have returned in great silence, coming in small parties, and in the night: but we hear they intend going again in a few weeks.

Friday, 27. We hear today, that the natives are to assemble at Kororareka, proceed from there to Wangaroa, to revenge upon 'Hongi's party, the death of a woman, the wife of a man related to Tareha

Tareha, a Ngapuhi chief of the Ngati-Rehua, was a very large man and a renowned colleague of Hongi Hika. He lived at Kerikeri and Taka. In 1815 he took part in the killing and eating of sailors of the New Zealander in revenge for their robbing his garden. There is an excellent account of him in Richard Taylor's New Zealand and its Inhabitants, pp517–19. There were three chiefs of this name. Kaiteke, the famous tohunga, was first called Tareha, and it was he who owned Te Ti, at the mouth of the Waitangi River. [L. J. Kelly: J.P.S., vol. 47, p167.]

; who was shot a few weeks since, and the man himself wounded by some near relation to 'Hongi. The natives here talk very largely of what they should do, but I do not think it will amount to much.

Saturday, 28. Our boys who have been inland to see their relations, returned, and brought our old favourite girl, who is sister to most of them. The poor child had been very ill for several months, and is now too weak to walk about much; she appeared very glad to continue with us.

Sunday, 29. Service as usual. Afterwards went on board the Indian to Divine Service; some of the crew would not attend: the preparation but very indifferent. In the afternoon went to the Haumi, to Toi Tapu; he and his people but little disposed for religious conversation. In the eveng., Fanny, a native girl, who had been decoyed out some weeks since, returned to us, and brought a female companion for the school. We were much encouraged by these circumstances, and hope the school may yet prosper; it has many evils to contend with.

Saturday, 5 May. Much rain this week; being the first for a very considerable time: it was greatly wanted. The natives have had much conversation, relative to the projected settlement in New Holland; their reasoning is good. They wish to be distinct from the whites or blacks, to retain their own teachers; for all disturbers to be sent back to this country; and for some to go before to examine the place, and look for a favourable situation. —We this morng. held a court of enquiry with our natives, men and boys; who had been, in violation of orders, in the habit of leaving the houses appointed for them within the settlement, and taking up their abode at Oratutu

Horotutu, the next beach to Paihia towards the Waitangi River.

, the rendezvous for the ship girls. We came to the conclusion, that, from this day, should anyone so transgress, he must immediately be dismissed; but we held out to them every encouragement to provide themselves with one suitable companion each, as wife; and promised that all so disposed should have a house and garden provided by the public. Some of them, in private, said, they could not get a wife; for that all were in the habit of going to the ships. This led to much serious conversation upon this shocking subject.

Sunday, 6. Held service on board the Indian: observed greater attention. Afterwards visited Toi Tapu, at the 'Haumi, and his people: they were in a better frame of mind, and I was therefor more at liberty to speak to them.

Monday, 7. As early as possible, we proceeded to Rangihou— when we met the brethren—all well. In the afternoon entered upon the question of the colonial settlement, according to Mr. Marsden's desire. Our ideas were generally in unison, but we could not conclude this day. In the eveng. held our monthly prayer meeting, which I trust was refreshg. to all.

Tuesday, 8. The question in consideration occupied till 4 o'clock, when it was concluded; that Mr. Davis, as havg. been nominated by Mr. Marsden and my brother to negotiate this important matter, should proceed to the Colony to lay the business before the corresponding committee. As 'Hongi and party were passg. the settlement on their way to the Kedikedi, Messrs. Kemp and Clarke felt it necessary to return home: the remainder proceeded upon the language.

Wednesday, 9. Continued at the language until 2 o'clock, when we returned home: all well.

Sunday, 13. Met a few natives at the 'Haumi, part of the dispersed people

The people of Korokoro, Te Rangi, Tuhi, &c., who were driven out of Paroa Bay by Hongi in 1826.

which formerly inhabited Paroa Bay. Held more pleasing conversation with them than for some time past; but still they did not possess any desire for the rest which remaineth for the children of God, though harassed from place to place, unable to find refuge anywhere.

Monday, 14. Tekoki and several of his friends came to talk upon the Colonial project; the old man, however, did not approve of anyone being present but his wife, at our conversation. He appeared greatly interested; but expressed a strong desire that none of the Napuis, that is the Kedikedi tribe, should go over to settle: but we particularly told him, that if established, it would be open to all, as a place of refuge.

Wednesday, 16. The work at the vessel going on well, with every prospect of getting her afloat the next spring tides: three ship wrights upon her at 7/- each per day. I feel greatly satisfied at their work.

Thursday, 17. In the evening received a letter from the brethren at the Kedikedi, stating that considerable unpleasant feeling existed between 'Hongi and the chiefs of that district, and that 'Hongi had declared his intention of taking Messrs. Kemp and Clarke with him to Wangaroa. They wished for our advice—how they were to act towards him.

Friday, 18. Several reports respecting 'Hongi's movements and intentions. Returned an answer to the brethren at the Kedi Kedi, to stand their ground until driven away; expressing also our desire to be with them when 'Hongi may return to them, should they give us notice. We also heard this day, that the Natives of the Kawa Kawa and the Wai Kadi had met in council; when it was determined that Tikoki should not go to the Colony, as it was considered that the remainder would undoubtedly fall. The Arch Fiend is certainly at work in this land, and is attempting utter destruction; civil wars appear inevitable. 'Hongi hangs by a hair, and all is ripe for confusion and bloodshed: but we commend our cause unto the Lord, and know He cannot err: we may yet have to depart. These late transactions have certainly slackened our temporal exertions, but redoubled those of a spiritual nature. All our efforts have been for some months past to the acquiring the language: in this considerable progress is made.

Saturday, 27. At noon I went over to Rangihou, for the purpose of remaining the Sabbath: found all well there. Nothing particularly new. The natives had not made many inquiries respecting the new settlement. Had much conversation upon the language.

Sunday, 28. In the afternoon walked by myself into the pa, and conversed with two divisions of natives; the first indifferent, the second tolerably attentive.

Friday, 15 June. During the week we have been sitting close, with Messrs. Kemp, Shepherd and King, consulting upon the subject of the new Settlement; and also at the language. We have reason to praise the Lord that we are enabled to meet in that Christian way we do, so very different from what was once the case. 'Hongi met the brethren at the Kedi Kedi in a friendly manner, and passed on to Rangihou, where the party behaved in a very quiet way. One has seen this is his policy, to gain favour with us all, that thereby ships may put into Wangaroa. I had an opportunity of seeing them all while there, and of having some conversations with 'Hongi and others. 'Hongi made several inquiries after the settlement in prospect; but it did not meet his approbation, as might be expected.

We as yet are unable to come to a conclusion, as to what steps we shall take: we cannot learn the true state of the native's mind. We purpose next week to visit the Kawa Kawa, when it will be seen what preparation they have made. There is no particular report in circulation at this date—all quiet.

We yesterday rec'd letters from the Colony, by way of Hokianga, which were pleasing generally. Mr. Norman's

The Rev. James Norman was for health reasons transferred from the Sierra Leone station of the C.M.S. and arrived in New South Wales in February 1827. He was expected to come to New Zealand to take charge of the boys' school, but he was sent instead to Laurenston and later to Port Dalrymple in Tasmania. [Missionary Register, 1830, p42; 1831, p36.]

removal to Van Dieman's land, does by no means meet our approbation, though we may not have a voice in the question, notwithstanding our interest has been called to him.

The Herald is expected to sail in less than three weeks for the Colony. Her new keel will be an expensive one; but perhaps not more than one third what it would have been in Port Jackson.

A settlement is about to be formed at the Hokianga, upon the wreck of Capt. Herd

This refers to the failure of Captain Herd in his endeavour to found a colony of settlers under the direction of the first New Zealand Company. This company was formed in 1825, and in 1826 it sent the Rosanna with some fifty mechanics on board under command of Captain Herd. Some iand in the Thames, including the islands of Waiheke and Pakihi, was bought, but the appearance of the Maoris in a haka frightened the settlers and they left for the Bay of Islands. Early in 1827 the Rosanna arrived at Hokianga. Here Herd bought land at Herd's Point, near the present Rawene, but again the appearance of the Maoris aroused their fears, and the ship sailed on for Sydney, leaving only a few settlers behind.

: some carpenters, with their wives, have arrived: they are to build a fort and to trade in muskets and powder: the Sabbath is required to be observed by them, at least outwardly. No accounts yet of Mr. White

The Rev. William White came to New Zealand with the Rev. Nathanael Turner in 1822, and the next year joined the Rev. S. Leigh in the newly formed Wesleyan mission at Kaeo. Whangaroa. When Leigh resigned, White became superintendent of the Wesleyan mission in New Zealand. In 1827, when Kaeo was sacked, White was absent in England. Returning in 1830, he became superintendent of the mission in Mangungu. In 1836 he was dismissed.

Saturday, 16. Went up to the Kedi Kedi, for the purpose of spending the Sabbath—everything perfectly quiet. Rewa had been makg. application for a passage to the Colony, but with no object beyond that of lookg. about him; we considered it more advisable that he should not go.

Sunday, 17. Service as usual. Rain generally throughout the day, thereby prevented from going out of the settlement. In the afternoon I addressed the Natives in the Settlement.

Monday, 18. Returned to Paihia, tho it blew strong ahead. Nothing new in my absence.

Tuesday, 19. Mr. Clarke arrived for the purpose of going up the Kawa Kawa, that we might learn the real wish of the Natives relative to the Colonial settlement.

Wednesday, 20. After breakfast Mr. Clarke, my brother and myself went up the river; and arrived about 2 o'clock. The Natives very kind. We had much conversation with Tikoki and others; when it appeared that their fears had subsided as to any attack, at least for the present: they, however, expressed their desires to possess a place in the Colony, and that two persons should view the land, and bring samples of the soil. In the evening we had further consultation amongst ourselves, and could not come to any conclusion.

Thursday, 21. After our school, the Colonial question was again brought forward; when it was determined that my Brother and Mr. Davis should proceed to Port Jackson, to lay the subject before the committee.

Friday, 22. I this morng. rec'd a letter from Mr. Shepherd to state that Mr. Wise

The correct spelling, which Williams uses later, is Weiss. He had spent five years as a midshipman in the navy. Sent by the Wesleyan mission to Tonga, he was not allowed to stay and returned to Sydney.

, a Wesleyan Missionary, had been remaining with them for a few days on his way from the Colony to Tonga; who had mentioned that the present Governor would not grant any part of the Coast for Missionary purposes; that their Society had been refused a small portion on that account: this, with the present feelings of the natives, gave a considerable check to our views.

Sunday, 24. Service as usual, at 8 o'clock. We afterwards dispersed to our several stations; myself to the 'Haumi: Toi tapu was not there. There were a number of slaves present, with whom I conversed for some time: their indifference is distressingly great. In the eveng., service as usual; when I addressed the natives dwelling in the settlement. There is not one native on the Island, in whom it can be said the work of grace is begun; tho we believe many are influenced by our conversation, in their general deportment. Toi tapu a few days since told me, that he believed all we told him, and that he desired to go to Heaven; and as an evidence, he said that he had not killed anyone on account of his son's death, and also the death of several relations; that had he not feared us and the anger of God, he should have killed many.

Monday, 25. My brother returned from Rangihou, where he had been for the purpose of remaining over the Sabbath. The Colonial question I believe so far settled, that no one of our body shall proceed to the Colony: the natives quite quiet on the subject. In consequence of Mr. Norman's removal to Van Dieman's land, we have determined, at this settlement, to take charge of the education of the boys: Mr. Davis, my brother and myself to attend alternately. I this day made a beginning; two hours in the forenoon, and two more in the afternoon. This will much delay our writing dictionaries &c., but there appears no alternative.

Tuesday, 26. This morng. Rewa, one of the Kedikedi chiefs, came to speak concerning his going to the Colony. It appeared he was anxious to obtain a ship to come down and purchase a quantity of flax which he has prepared. We told him that as none of us were going up, he would be exposed to insult, owing to his not having a friend with him; with this he appeared satisfied.

Wednesday, 27. We this morng. heard that John Bunstead, a man who had been working for us some weeks since and is now living at Kororarika, had been robbed of all his property. This news excited some alarm amongst us, as about 20 persons of the worst character are living there, Prisoners and others who have run from their ships. On Friday night last, our people belonging to the Herald, who are residing on an island about half a mile from us

Motuorangi.

, were robb'd of cloths, &c., &c., to a considerable amount. We consequently held a council with the crew of the Herald and the carpenters at work there, as to what steps should be taken; when it was considered proper to go to Kororarika and commence a search, which was accordingly done, under a strong guard, more with the idea of shewing them what they might expect should they visit us, than to recover the property. We did not, however, find anything: —a considerable body of Englishmen were there: they were well behaved. Two of the chiefs from the Kawakawa came to us today, to enquire respecting the sailing of the vessel: they appeared to speak with considerable interest. We promised to send them word when she should be ready. They have provided themselves with a considerable quantity of potatoes of kinds, for seed; and flax, &c., &c.

Thursday, 28. This afternoon, Tikoki came down to talk with us. Had he said as much when we were up the Kawakawa, we should not have changed the thought of the Deputation remaining behind; but I believe it will now remain as it is.

Saturday, 30. This afternoon it appeared that our sick native little girl Lucy, who had been with us for at least three years, was now at the point of death. We went and sat with her, and conversed with her on the love of Jesus and the delights of Heaven. She listened with great attention, and expressed an earnest desire to go there. She extended her feeble hand to us, and leaned her head against us: her brother and a faithful slave of theirs sat up with her. I left her at about eleven o'clock: — at 2 o'clock I was told she was dead. We were much affected, for she was much endeared to us: we think however we may have a hope; she has heard much and has been frequently spoken to.

Sunday, 1 July. My mind greatly solemnised by that poor child's death, and with the feelings of the state of the heathen generally. I pray it may be a call to some around us. The Natives are addressed publicly three times during the week, besides private admonition. Upon a review, there are two who lend a listening ear within the settlement. During our service, some natives from inland, who had some complaint against some of my natives, came and prepared to fight with them; but, we were pleased to learn that it had been declined on behalf of our boys, as it was the Sabbath, but on the morrow they would be ready for them: the strangers were ashamed.

Monday, 2. We assembled the natives of the settlement, to witness the burial of little Lucy; as her brother had determined that she should not be taken inland according to the Native custom. About ten o'clock we buried her, sang a native hymn, and addressed those who were present: the natives behaved with great decorum. My brother and myself went, afterwards, to the Kedi-keri, to attend the committee. Mr. Davis remained to attend to the european children; as we considered it an important point that their lessons should not be interrupted, and he could now absent himself as the times are so greatly altered. On our arrival found all well but Mrs. Clarke; she is very weak, and frequently very unwell.

Wednesday, 4. At noon left the Kedikeri, with a strong wind at S.W.: very squally during the whole passage: landed at Paihia at half past 2 o'clock—all well. In the evening Mr. Davis went to the Kerikeri, to kill some bullocks; as we were entirely out of meat.

Wednesday, 11. A special committee assembled here this day, previous to the sailing of the Herald; to consider further upon the public letter sent by the Parent Committee, respecting the education of the children, and also upon the subject of a settlement in New South Wales, for the benefit of those New Zealanders who may be disposed to sit quiet.

Thursday, 12. Concluded our committee business by noon; the result of which will appear by the minutes. It was also considered necessary that Mr. Davis

Richard Davis also had the task of seeing some translated portions of Scripture through the press. These were Genesis 1–3; Exodus 20: 1–17; Mathew 5: 1–30; John 1; the Lord's Prayer and seven hymns. [H. W. Williams, Bibliography of Printed Maori, p2.]

should proceed to Port Jackson, to consult with the corresponding committee upon the question of a Settlement for these Natives; our opinion is rather strengthened than otherwise upon the importance of such a measure.

Saturday, 14. My brother and I went on board of Cap. Dillon's

Captain Peter Dillon, an Irish seaman who visited Tonga about 1809 and traded in the East and in the Pacific for twenty years. In 1814 he was captain of the Active which brought Hall and Kendall to the Bay of Islands to test the proposal to establish a N.Z. mission. He visited New Zealand in 1823, 1825 and 1826, and also in later years. In 1827 he was given command of the Research by the East India Company and authorised to search for the lost La Perouse. In his Narrative of the Successful Result of a Voyage in the South Seas, published in 1829, he severely criticised the New Zealand missionaries of the C.M.S. It was due to his insistence that the Roman Catholic mission was started in New Zealand.

ship, early this morning, to see some prints which he had for sale, and much wanted them for the use of the girls. We purchased 34 pieces, for the families and the schools, at 1/- pr. yard.

Sunday, 15. Heavy rain all day: could not move out of the settlement. Service as usual, at 8 o'clock in the morng., and again in the eveng.; when I addressed our natives.

Monday, 16. Much rain; which threw us back in the preparation of the Herald for sea.

Tuesday, 17. Fine: Settled Cap. Dillon's bill, which came to £69, including some private accounts, as will appear at the next committee.

Wednesday, 18. Tomorrow is appointed for the sailing of the Herald. Went on board to settle some accounts with the Carpenters and blacksmith, who had been at work upon her. Am doubtful she may not sail, as several things require to be put to rights. Rec'd a note from Cap. Dillon to state that he had several tons of ballast (iron), much in his way, that he might leave behind; that if I would sign a receipt as havg. it on behalf of the mission, to be paid for at prime cost if required, he should be glad to let me have it. I accordingly ordered eight ton.

Thursday, 19. At daylight observed the wind was from the S.E. Closed my papers for the Colony, and went on board to get the vessel under weigh; but she was not ready, and the ebb tide had been running out some time. By 10 o'clock, the wind had shifted to East, and increasing to a gale; gave up all expectation of her sailing.

Friday, 20. A very severe gale during the whole night, with heavy rain: felt exceedingly thankful the vessel had not sailed yesterday. Rain all day; could not hold any communication with anyone on board. She is riding by one cable, and a heavy sea: persons who know what trusting to a single anchor is, are able to value the possession of a second anchor: we stand greatly in need of a second cable—(iron).

Saturday, 21. Little wind. Went on board; all well: she looked very comfortable. At 10 o'clock it came on to rain, which continued all day.

Sunday, 22. Service as usual; after which, I went to the 'Haumi. Several persons were trifling at first, but towards the conclusion were more serious. Toi tapu asked many pleasing questions relative to the coming of our Lord into the world:—he was unwell and required to have some tea, which was sent.

Monday, 23. A fine morng.: wind from the Southd. After breakfast, the Herald was reported ready for sea. We accordingly accompanied Mr. Davis on board; when she weighed and made sail. We were soon obliged to take leave, as she moved so quickly along: in a little more than an hour she was out of sight. The mission on which Mr. D. is gone is an important one to this people: we trust the Lord will direct him and all who may be concerned with it.—In the afternoon, it was commonly reported that Capn. Dillon, formerly of the Active and now commanding pro tempore one of the Company's cruisers

Research, of the East India Company.

, now in the bay, had purchased several girls with muskets; and that some of the girls afterwards understanding that he intended to take them away, wished to return on shore, but were not allowed: many of their relatives were in considerable distress.

Tuesday, 24. Capn. Dillon sailed. We heard early in the morning, that most of the girls had swam on shore during the night, but the remainder were strongly guarded, and their friends were afraid to say much to Cap. Dillon, fearing that they might have been shot. The conduct of these men is grievous. I am frequently astonished that the indignation of the Lord is not more openly manifest. We have had several natives about us today, exulting in the reward they obtained from the Shipping, for their iniquitous practices. One girl, who a short time since, was living in one of the families here, returned on shore, this morning, bringing a musket as her wages, from Cap. Dillon's Ship: this afternoon she set off to Cap. Brind's vessel. —Late this eveng. I received a note from Cap. Brind, to state that an English man, named Mahamai

This was the pakeha-maori, Jacky Marmon, who, according to his own story, was born in New South Wales in 1800, visited New Zealand at the age of five, served later as a cabin boy on a sealer, came to the Bay of Islands on a whaler in 1811, and about 1824, deserting from a ship, settled at Hokianga under the protection of Muriwai. He married a Maori girl, Hau-uru, and, when she died, married the daughter of a Mangamuka chief. A poorly educated man, he was undoubtedly a rascal, and rumour reported that he shared in cannibal feasts. He died in Auckland in 1880.

, of notorious bad character, had been firing at his men; and that he had, moreover, threatened to fetch the tribe, amongst whom he lives, from Hokianga, and take possession of his ship. I forwarded the proclamation of Sir Thos. Brisbane to him respecting such characters. —We hear that there are at least three and twenty runaway men and prisoners on the opposite beach; who would be glad of an opportunity to destroy the mission. —We have considered it necessary to keep loaded arms in our houses for self-defence. Our fears are far greater with respect to these characters, than of the Natives; though we much acknowledge we have never rec'd personally anything but civility from them, as also whenever we go to the Shipping; tho we know that, amongst themselves, their language is very bad respecting us.

Sunday, 29. Some smart showers through the day. Did not visit the Emily, as I had not had any communication from Capt. Brind to that effect. Went to Tohi tapu as usual. One of his wives lay sick, upon which he expressed himself much distressed. This afforded us a good topic for conversation. Their behaviour was pleasing, tho I fear their state is the same. I talked to them as seriously as I could. They told me that altho' they did not yet believe, still that if I visit them frequently, they should be enabled to understand.

Monday, 30. Tohi tapu came this morng. for some flour for his sick wife. He also said that, as there was not any place suitable for our service, especially in wet weather, he had given orders to his people to build a shed for that purpose; and he wished for a gimlet and a few nails to work with. I urged upon him the importance of reflecting upon the state of his soul. He assented to the necessity. His sick wife had a mess of stirabout

A mixture of flour and water sweetened with sugar, of which the Maoris were very fond. The Maori name was kororirori.

and a piece of salt beef, according to her particular request.

Tuesday, 31. By accounts from Hokianga, we hear that Cap. Kent

Captain John Rodolphus Kent, a ship master and trader, in 1820 as captain of the Prince Regent schooner entered the Hokianga River, and was probably the first European captain to do so. Later in the year he sailed with a Maori pilot through waters unknown to Europeans down the coast and across the Thames estuary as far as Coromandel. He was farming for a period at Hokianga, trading in muskets and powder. Later with four companions he became a pakeha-maori at Kawhia, and finally Ngaruawahia. On 1 January 1837 Hamlin records in his journal, “Captain Kent died at Kahowai, Manukau, and was interred here in a sacred place.” In his book Augustus Earle states that Kent had applied for assistance in vain to the C.M.S. missionaries, but in a letter to the C.M.S. dated 27 May 1833, Henry Williams says that Kent “denied that any application was made by him”. [McNab, Historical Records, vol. II, pp497, 649, 652–3; Earle, New Zealand in 1827, pp9, 14, 165; L. G. Kelly, Tainui, p423f.]

, who has been endeavouring to establish a party there for trading, and who had recently been joined by Mr. S. Butler

Butler came to New Zealand with his father, the Rev. John Butler, on 12 August 1819. He was employed as catechist and teacher in the mission until November 1823. Later he settled as a trader in Hokianga and was drowned in the Hokianga River in 1836.

and family, from the Colony, was intending to break up the establishment and depart for Port Jackson in about a fortnight.

Wednesday, 1 August. Much rain this day; which prevented my going up the river to visit the Natives.

Thursday, 2. Some appearance of a fine day. Immediately after school, Mr. Fairburn and myself took the boat and went to Wangai, about 7 or 8 miles distant by water, where are a number of natives. We visited four settlements, and returned by four o'clock. The people appeared happy to see us, and strongly desired that we should see them often. Our words were new to many.— Several heavy showers.

Saturday, 4. Fine morng. Before eleven I took my departure for Rangihou, where I arrived, by the aid of a strong breeze, in little more than an hour: all well. In the afternoon the boat returned to Paihia, for the use of my brother and those who might go with him to the Meeting on Monday.—Much conversation with Mr. Shepherd in the eveng. upon the language.

Sunday, 5. No watch or timepiece in the Settlement, but one old, rickety thing, upon which no dependence could be placed. After breakfast, sojourned amongst the rocks. Met two Natives, who had been at work: had some conversation with them upon the value of spiritual things. They promised to assemble with the school Natives when the bell should ring.—It was near noon before we assembled for service. After dinner, accompanied Mr. Shepherd to two parties of Natives: with the first, we had much interesting conversation: they appeared much surprised when told that we should all rise again at the day of judgement: we spoke to them upon the redemption; this they were not so sensible of.

Monday, 6. The boats arrived before twelve o'clock from Paihia and the Kerikeri. Much conversation before it was determined how we should proceed in the examination of the translation. After dinner commenced upon the 15 Chap of St. Luke, by Messrs. Shepherd and King: observed much improvement since the last by them: finished four verses before tea. The eveng. engaged in the prayer meeting, and in conversation upon the general state of affairs.

Tuesday, 7. Commenced early upon the translation. We were interrupted for two hours upon some public question. Between eight and nine closed our work, having well digested 13 verses, including those of yesterday. This must at present be slow progress: we only meet twice a quarter, the third being wholly occupied in public business. This may, perhaps, shew some reason why we should have more strength, as no translation can pass without two or three readings.

Wednesday, 8. At sunrise, left Rangihou for Marsden's Vale

Marsden's Vale. The name given by Henry Williams to the mission station at Paihia.

, where we arrived about twelve o'clock; the wind being against us: all well.

Thursday, 9. Obs'd a small Schn., working in to Rangihou: we were in hopes of news from Port Jackson. Wind strong from the Southd.

Friday, 10. In the evening, learnt that the Schn. laying at Rangihou, was the same which was here about six weeks since, with a Wesleyan Missionary for Tonga;—and that he was on his way back to the Colony, with his family, as the Tonga Mission was given up, but for what reason, I could not learn: whereupon I determined to proceed on the morrow to Rangihou, and hear the whole account.

Saturday, 11. After breakfast, my brother and myself went to Rangihou, where we had the pleasure of seeing Mr. and Mrs. Weiss. I had a peculiar interest in seeing Mr. W., as he had passed five years as midshipman on board a Man of War.—His account was simple. On the arrival of the Vessel at Tonga, he was told by the missionaries that he could not land, as they must leave the island and flee for their lives: this was a considerable grief to him, and all he could say was of no avail, as he is only an assistant missionary, and of no authority; but he states that he could not perceive the slightest reason for their acting thus. Mr. Hutchinson

The superintendent of the Wesleyan mission at Tonga.

has been seriously ill for some time past, which may have affected his mind to such a degree as to lead him to suppose that he was in danger. But however they ordered him back to Sydney with direction to procure a large vessel for their accommodation, as they were in fear daily. It is singular, that persons in the fear they expressed, should reject the means of escaping which they then possessed. Mr. and Mrs. Weiss returned with us to Marsden's Vale.

Sunday, 12. Service as usual; after which I went on board the Emily, by appointment and met the crew in the cabin; addressed them from 2 Cor. 5. 14, 15: they were exceedingly attentive. I afterwards went to the 'Haumi. The natives attended immediately on my arrival; but their hearts are very dark: they are void of feeling. Tohi tapu had erected a shed, to protect us from the sun or rain; but he was led away by his dreams, and could not understand what I said to him. One man called out to finish quickly, as he was tired. I told him that was an evident sign that he was under the influence of the wicked one; for, had we come for any other purpose, all would have attended with much pleasure. Our eveng. service very pleasing: the room filled with Natives.

Monday, 13. Had much conversation with Mr. Weiss upon the Tonga Mission, and upon our mode of proceeding. It appeared that the females had the government of matters there, one of whom is about 17 years of age: it will be a source of great grief to all friends of missions; but I trust will not lose its benefit to us. I gave Mr. W. a few words as to the course he should persue. He appears a pious young man, and of much experience of men and women. In the afternoon, I took Mr. and Mrs. W. and two children over to Rangihou. Messrs. Shepherd and King mentioned to me a young man

Rurerure.

, an old servant of Mr. Hall's, who was near his end, and that he had been under serious impressions for several months, but clearer evidence within these last few weeks. I, accordingly, accompanied them to the house in which he was, and after some conversation with him was rejoiced at witnessing what I did. He was very feeble, but he related when his first impression took place, after the return of the last fighting party: that he was then afraid to die; that he saw no hope but in that Saviour of whom he frequently heard; that he had prayed to Him, and felt his heart rejoice. He enquired of us, to know if he was right; if he should go to Heaven. We assured him of the love of Jesus; that He came down from heaven, to gather to himself, and to purify from all sin, all persons from every people who should flee to him. He said he was happy; that he knew he should soon die, but that he cared not for his body, but for his soul. I spoke to the brethren as to his baptism; but as that subject was new to the youth I proposed returning, the day after tomorrow, and see him again; and if it should be considered proper, he should be baptised. In my own mind, I have no doubt but that he is a brand plucked from the burning. This is unexpected, for I did not know that there had been one making inquiries. Messrs. Shepherd and King will doubtless give you a full and particular account.—I trust the day of the Lord is at hand, when He shall say to the North, give up, and to the South, keep not back; when Satan's yoke shall be broken from off this people's neck. I hope this will stir us up to greater diligence in revealing the glad tidings of the gospel of peace.

Tuesday, 14. After breakfast, Mr. Fairburn and myself took the boat and went up the Kawakawa, to visit the Natives. We could not go so early as usual owing to the tide. We however passed about five hours amongst them. I assembled fair congregation; three of whom behaved well, and appeared to listen with attention; the others I was obliged to leave abruptly, (after a few serious words which I told them were not mine but those of Jesus Christ), owing to their abominable conduct. This we are obliged sometimes to do, and find it has a good effect. While we were up here, an ambassador of the Prince of Darkness arrived from the ship, with powder and muskets to purchase pigs. Many of the people flocked to him. Some of the Natives asked us, whether they should not go to war; for that, if they did not, the Napuis would come and strip them.—Mr. Fairburn visited about the same number as I did, and we returned home at sunset, after a very agreeable day, tho we could not see all the Natives we wished, as they lived about two or three miles further up the river, and some, also inland. Heard that the youth at Rangihou, whom I had visited when there, was dead; but no particulars.

Friday, 17. Obs'd the Schr. on board of which was Mr. Weiss &c. sail from Rangihou: they must have lost much time, as the winds have been very fair for her.

Sunday, 19. After our Service, went on board the Emily: met the crew in the cabin; addressed them on Is. 1. 18. As it was the last sabbath I expected to see them, I spoke to them with as much solemnity as possible: they were very attentive. I delivered to Cap. Brind for them, in their presence, six testaments, one bible, and about seventy tracts. While I was on board, Tohi tapu came with six canoes, on his way to the Ra-witi, in Paroa Bay, to plant potatoes. I expressed my displeasure to him, and warned him of the consequences. Returned on shore and went to the 'Haumi: none but women and children; the men with Tohitapu. On my arriving near our Settlement, I perceived that something new was in agitation, and also obs'd a boat pullg. towards the beach from the Ship; several canoes also in motion; very unusual for the Sabbath. I soon learned the following account: A Teretere (party of visitors), consisting of five canoes, from Tauranga

Tauranga is used loosely here. This teretere was from Rotorua.

, under the care of a young man belonging to the Bay, had been chased by Moka

Moka, also known as Te Kainga-mataa, was a brother of Rewa and Wharerahi, and a distinguished chief among Hongi's warriors, fighting at Te Totara, Mataki-taki and at Te Ika-a-ranganui, where he was severely wounded. Henry Williams found him impudent, quarrelsome, impetuous, stubborn and ill-disposed to the pakeha.

, one of the Kerikeri chiefs, of noted bad character. The Teretere, not possessing arms, fled, and ran into a small bay, where was Tikoki with about twenty of the Kawakawa Natives, on their way to plant potatoes. The Teretere ran immediately to Tikoki, and were pursued by Moka and his party; who fired about twenty shots, and wounded four of Tikoki's people; upon this Tikoki ordered his people to fire, who killed a chief belonging to Waimate. Moka's party were then overpowered, and their muskets taken from them. This news created much confusion amongst our natives, as there was no calculating where it might stop. Two wounded men came over to Cap. Brind's boat, to be attended: one shot through the thigh; the other through both legs, one was broken. Being unaccustomed to receiving such visitors, it required much time before they were disposed of comfortably. Our eveng. service was entirely set aside. Several of the strangers were relations to the wife of Tahiwanga

Taiwhanga, a chief of the Uriohau hapu of Ngapuhi who lived at Kaikohe, was another of Hongi's great fighting chiefs. In 1823 he learned gardening under the Rev. J. G. Butler and visited Marsden at Parramatta. After the battle of Te Ika-a-ranganui, he became a devout and consistent Christian, refusing to join in war parties, and living under the authority of the Paihia missionaries. He was baptized in 1830 under the name of Rawiri [David]. He became a dependable leader and a forceful preacher.

, a promising Native living in the settlement, and a Waimate man.

Monday, 20. Several reports relative to the occurrences of yesterday. Many are disposed to slay the whole party of strangers, and I believe Tohi tapu is amongst the number: he has been professing great things. I fear much disturbance may result. This eveng. it is said that the Napuis are going up the Kawakawa to plunder; and that yesterday they took up the seed potatoes of Rangituke

Rangituke, the son of Te Koki. In 1828 he assembled a war party to avenge the death of Pomare who had been killed at Te Rore. The Ngati-Paoa and Ngati-Tupa were ready for them and defeated them in battle on Motutapu Island, just opposite the mouth of the Tamaki River. Te Rangituke and his warriors were killed, with the exception of one canoe containing twenty men. S. Percy Smith and L. G. Kelly hold that the defeat of Rangituke was in April or May 1827, but Henry Williams records several meetings with Rangituke after that date, in particular on 18 March 1828, “Rangituke went early this morning to take council with Tareha, Rewa, Tohitapu, Te Morenga at Kororareka”. [Smith, Wars, p390ff; Kelly, Tainui, p375f.]

, which he had just planted.—The circumstance of Moka's party, only 10 men, bringing 50 to the stand, shews the ascendancy which the Napuis have over the rest of the bay. Tikoki's people were afraid to shoot him: he is full of all mischief, he is a child of iniquity.

When Moka had recovered himself from his frenzy, he told Tikoki, that had he been overcome, the whole of the Kawakawa people would have been killed; there is no doubt of it. This brings afresh to our view the importance of a Settlement in the Colony, if it should meet with the sanction of the Government and the Corre -sponding committee.

Tuesday, 21. This morng. at sunrise, obs'd a war canoe full of men, pullg. towards the beach; and soon found it belonged to the Kawaka party, consequently were not under any alarm; as soon as our natives retired to their respective houses to family prayers, the Kawakawa people seized a new canoe which had been brought by the strangers, but was the property of Tahiwanga. This caused considerable disturbance; tho for my part I thought that Tikoki was fully entitled to it, for the protection he afforded to these people on Sunday. After communicating my thoughts to Tahi-wanga, he was fully satisfied, but did not approve of the manner in which it was done. Many reports passing through the settlement relative to these poor people: they are in considerable danger of being murdered. Capn. Brind came on shore and closed our accounts: he behaved with great politeness, in offering to take charge of anything we wished to send by him.

Wednesday, 22. Engaged the whole day in closing despatches, &c., &c. In the forenoon, heard that it was decreed that all the strangers would be spared, excepting those who were within our settlement, living with Tahiwanga. This was considered an infringement upon us, and consequently felt it our duty to interfere. Much conversation amongst the natives at Waitangi, who were all desirous of the death of these people: one man especially, of very bad character, urged the measure; and proposed that if we should oppose them, that they should kill us also; but none of these things move us. We shall certainly exert all the influence we can upon the minds of these men, tho our numbers are nothing to them. After dinner we held a council, when it was concluded that my brother should wait on Cap. Brind, to ask him if he objected to take these poor fellows to their place, on his way to the East Cape

“It is to be noted that in the old missionary records the East Cape seems to include any place south of Mercury Bay.” [Marsden L. & J., p155n.]

. If he should object, it was considered proper to give them the offer of a conveyance in our boat, tho the distance is 200 miles. Tohitapu came: I did not admire his appearance. He came up to us in a little time, and desired that Tahiwanga should be sent to his place, Waimate, for he was very angry with him. To this we did not listen, but told him we were very jealous of his disposition towards these strangers: he walked off then towards the house where they were. At 3 o'clock I was called out; as there were several ill looking men hanging about and their appearance suspicious. From Waitangi, we heard that it was the determination of the people there to kill them this night: about forty natives were there, generally armed, and others assembling. Tohitapu was seated there. I felt very indignant with him, but wished to observe his movements. After some time, he said he was going home. This I considered as a signal to the people about, that they were to act in his absence. I therefore told him he must not go, for that I expected these people were wishing to fall upon the strangers. He said they were not his people: he could not say anything to them. As I knew that Tohitapu was a proud man, I was determined to use his pride for the security of these poor fellows; and I told him, that as there was no Native Chief but himself there, and as he saw the disposition of all around was to slay them, I could not let him go: he must remain with me, as my friend. This gratified him; and in the course of an hour most of the people withdrew.—Capt. Brind did not feel disposed to land these people to the Southd., as it might delay the Ship.—We heard that a party from the Thames had landed at Wangaruru, and had killed a number of the Bay of Islanders: this I do not believe. Before Tohitapu returned home, I told him he must keep a good look-out, and listen to what the natives had to say; that should these men be killed at this settlement, he would receive our severe displeasure, as that he could prevent it if he liked. Tohi is fond of a mess of flour and sugar, and frequently has it from us: the idea of losing this will weigh mightily with him.

Thursday, 23. Closed my dispatches. About 10.30 a.m. Mr. S. Butler, who has been farming for some time, at Hokianga, trading with the natives, made his appearance. After some few enquiries, I gave him our opinion upon his recent pursuits—and trading with muskets and powder—the remarks all made by the Natives. I reminded him of the feelings of those who knew him. He however defended his conduct after the manner of those who care not for the world to come. —About noon, as I was prepared to go on board the Emily, the natives came running, and exclaimed, Ka puta te taua, that is, the fight is in sight, or those for that purpose. As I was somewhat unusually attired I had to run and disencumber myself and clear for action. Our natives were out in an instant, and we had soon assembled our forces outside the fences and closed the gates. Tohitapu was soon discovered, capering about, but still I had not learnt what it was all about—whether he came in peace or in war—his party soon advanced, consisting of about 80 men. We soon understood that their object was only to shew themselves; they came and had a dance, after which Tohitapu requested some flour for them. As the minds of the natives were very unsettled, and it was expedient to keep them in tune as much as possible, we had about 20 Ib. of flour and sugar cooked for them, with which they were much delighted and afterwards passed off in quietness.

Friday, 24. About noon we were thrown into considerable alarm by the approach of a war canoe, and it was not a little heightened when it was discovered that Marupo

Marupo was of the Ngati-Rahirahi, or Maturuhuruhu tribe, and lived at Pouerua. Principal chief of Waitangi, a nephew of Te Kamera and elder brother of Mahikai, he was a noted warrior and as noted a rascal and a savage.

, a Chief of very bad character, was in it, as he was the person who had threatened the lives of the Rotorua men who were in the settlement. I felt considerable fear for them. On their landing a relation to these poor men was seen which relieved our minds. They remained for some time, but in quietness.

Sunday, 26. After service I went on board the Emily, and met the crew in the cabin—their attention was very great. I then proceeded to the 'Haumi, where I spoke to upwards of 30 persons several of whom were from Rotorua—our message was new to them.

Monday, 27. Early this morning the Emily sailed with a fair wind.

Thursday, 30. Several reports for these last two or three days that the Napuis were on their way to the Kawakawa.

Friday, 31. At sunrise Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Kawa-kawa to see how the Natives appeared, how they were prepared to receive the Napuis. The day was unfavourable, every appearance of a gale. A considerable body of people were assembled together. Tekoki appeared very thoughtful, and asked many questions as to how they should proceed in the event of an attack. We had some very pleasant conversation with them on eternal things, they expressed a desire that Mr. Fairburn and Wm. Puckey

William Gilbert Puckey came with his father, William Puckey, in 1819 to erect mission buildings at Kerikeri. Entering the service of the C.M.S. as a layman in 1821, he continued in that service all his life. In 1831 he married Matilda, daughter of Richard Davis, and in 1833 assisted the Rev. Joseph Matthews to establish a mission at Kaitaia. An accomplished Maori linguist, he collaborated with the Rev. William Williams in the translation of the New Testament in 1837 and its revision in 1844.

should go up and join them today, in order to make a stand against the Napuis. We told them this we could not do, but that we had prayed for them and would continue to do so, that the Napuis might be confounded in their consultation. They appeared glad to see us and much retuned by our visit. They told us, as soon as we should see the Napuis to go over to them and persuade them to return. I have no doubt but that our influence over this Nation is very considerable.

Sunday, 2 September. After service I went to the Puke

Te Puke was one of the stations served by Richard Davis. It was bought by Busby in 1839, and is now known as Mount Bledisloe, being part of the Waitangi estate presented to the nation by Lord Bledisloe in 1932.

, about seven miles over hill and dale, and met about 20 natives, some were very ignorant, others possessed a good portion of knowledge; all seemed glad to see me. A large Ship working into the bay all the afternoon. In the eveng. service as usual.

Monday, 3. About noon, the boats arrived from the Kerikeri and Rangihou—all well. In the eveng. held the prayer meeting, which is always refreshing. I addressed the brethren from I. Saml. 14, 6. —The ship was the Emily. Cap. Brind put back, having sprung a leak.

Tuesday, 4. Immediately after breakfast commenced upon the translation and sat close the whole day. By 9 o'clock, p.m. finished 16 verses of 5th chapter of Matt. to general satisfaction. According to our present order, this chap. must remain until the next meeting here before it can be brought forward again by which we may perceive the importance of an amendment. Several efforts have been made for more frequent communication but as yet we have failed—yet these translations must not be allowed to pass without it. More strength is greatly required, without it we shall but hold our own. We have, however, every reason to praise the Lord for the Christian fellowship which now prevails. I trust the meeting was profitable to all, in every point of view. The general improvement in language very manifest. My mind much cheered.

Wednesday, 5. Warenui arrived at daylight full of importance, stating that the Natemaru the people from upwards that is from the Southd. were coming up and intended to kill us without any ceremony, but we did not hear a word respecting our poor people at the Kawakawa. I hope that storm may blow over. The brethren returned in the course of the morng.

Saturday, 8. Rec'd a note from Cap. Brind, to state that he would be unable to have service on board tomorrow owing to the confused state in which the ship was.

Sunday, 9. After service went to the 'Haumi, heavy rain during most of the afternoon, but few people in attendance. Tohitapu, who was very unwell, crawled out of his house—he appeared willg. to oblige me by listening with all his powers, but as insensible to the real import of what I had to say as the earth on which he sat.

Thursday, 13. At daylight obs'd a ship working into the bay. Immediately after breakfast Mr. Fairburn and I went to Wangai— the tide was very favourable, which allowed us sufficient time to see all the Natives. Never have I spent a more agreeable season with them, they hailed us with much apparent pleasure, and collected their scattered parties to hear what we had to say. I was much struck with their behaviour, and looked up to the Lord with gratitude for His promised blessing. In His name I told them we were come, to declare the glad tidings of peace with God through Jesus Christ, that they had long been in bondage to Satan, but that liberty was now proclaimed to all believers, that in the Judgement we should be raised again, incorruptible, to give an account of the deeds done in the body. I think I may say that they received the Word with gladness. The second party I spoke to was an assemblage of Chiefs undergoing the process of tatooing, many of them had borne the character of insolence, from these I did not look for much. However, I took courage, remembering that they were not my words which I had to deliver. I accordingly addressed myself to them, and was greatly surprised at their attention—not the slightest disposition to levity—they told me they knew our motive in coming amongst them, was that they might be saved from the place of torment, and become children of God. They asked me why we could not send one of our Natives, who understood the things of God, to instruct them more frequently if we could not ourselves be more amongst them, but alas we have not yet one who could be sent upon this important duty. I could wish that many of them were living with us, even married persons. A little girl who had been living with us for many months, but who had been taken away by her friends, for want of the payment of wages, I was enabled to convey to our house—the poor child appeared rejoiced to return to us and to her old companions in the house. She was covered with oil and red ochre, &c., but by the aid of soap and water and shearing, her person became tolerably purified.

Friday, 14. As the tide answered for our going up the Waikari Mr. Fairburn and I went up immediately after breakfast; it was with considerable difficulty we were enabled to discover the passage. We however arrived about 11 a.m. by the assistance of a Native as Pilot. Most [of] the people were away at their plantation. With those with whom I spoke, I was very much pleased, they listened with earnestness, and frequently exclaimed that it was the first time they had heard these things, and enquired when we should return to them. Several settlements are inland, but we could not visit them, more time is required for this duty. I have never witnessed such interest as has been manifested lately, it is very encouraging.

Saturday, 15. This afternoon Tohitapu came to shew himself. He said that he had been to the Shipping, and had been much praised for his havg. become a missionary. That they had given him two cartridge boxes, but that he had requested them not to put any powder inside. Rec'd a very polite note from Cap. Duke in answer to one I had sent him, expressing how happy he will be to see me tomorrow on board to attend service.

Sunday, 16. After service I rec'd a note from Cap. Duke, stating that from a disturbance between himself and crew, it would not be convenient for me to go on board. Much rain in the afternoon. Went to the 'Haumi, where was a considerable assembly. I was soon introduced to a man of great renown, Koikoi

Te Koikoi had the reputation of being the most savage of Hongi's chiefs, taking part in many of the wars of the period, often in company with Rewa. His kainga was at Waimate.

, a chief from inland, known as a great Savage. Tohitapu requested me not to say anything about the place of fire and brimstone as a place for wicked men, while this man was with them. Upon which I asked Koikoi if he had never heard anything of that place. He replied no. I thereupon told him that God had declared that “the Wicked shall be turned into Hell, and all the Nations that forget God”, and then proceeded, exhorted them to flee from the wrath to come and lay hold on eternal life. I was more particular in speaking very plainly to this man, as he is a great Chief and a great Savage, and I had been told by Natives in this neighbourhood that we should be afraid to say to him and to 'Hongi what we say to them. I told him he must not suppose that we were angry with him or others, but that we spoke as we did, lest they should be caught in the snare of Satan, and perish for ever. The old man appeared attentive, and by no means offended by what I said. He asked Tohitapu if this was our usual mode of address to them, when he was told it was. I felt thankful at havg. an opportunity of speakg. to this man.

Monday, 17. At breakfast, Tohitapu and Koikoi with others came; bread and tea and stirabout was provided for them, after which Tohitapu was very solicitous that some present should be made to Koikoi, but from our past experience we have determined that no presents shall be made, as it is not attended with any benefit, but contrariwise, as a native conscience is never satisfied. I therefore told Tohi that we never gave away a thing for nothing, but that if he presented me with some potatoes, I would present him with an axe. After some little abuse, they departed. Tohitapu's pride will be somewhat reduced the next conversation I have with him. The Natives around appeared somewhat astonished that a man of Koikoi's dignity should have been denied by me, or that we generally did not stand more in awe of him.

Wednesday, 19. Tohitapu came, this morning to reconnoitre. I was engaged, and did not see him. No notice was taken of him.

Thursday, 20. Heavy rain during the whole day. While we were at the language, Tohitapu again appeared, and coughed and spat and coughed again, in order to engage our notice, however, we passed him by, and he returned to his place.

Monday, 24. Ret'd from the Kerikeri about 2 o'clock, learnt that Caps. Brind and Duke were waiting to see me, the latter wishing to remain on shore with us while his Ship went out on a service, as he was not well. I was very sorry to hear this news, but determined to state our objections clearly and without reserve to Cap. Duke, which I accordingly did as soon as he made known to me his wishes. I pointed out to him, how impossible it was for us to receive him amongst us, when everyone knew his conduct towards the Natives, that while we were endeavouring to plant the seed of life, the Shipping were casting law on every hand, consequently it was absolutely necessary for the prosperity of the Mission, that while persons belonging to the Ships considered themselves at liberty to think and act as they thought proper without any respect for religious observances, it became our duty to observe the utmost reserve. At the same time we should always render the assistance in our power, which did not subject us to introduce persons within our settlement, whom we could not gladly receive. The two Caps. knew that my observations were true, and had not a word to say.

Tuesday, 25. This afternoon I rec'd a letter from Cap. Duke, earnestly soliciting to be received on shore at our settlement, as it might prove the salvation to both his body and soul. In the eveng. I called the brethren together to consider his letter. Our discussion was for upwards of four hours, so important did we view the case. When it was determined that Cap. D. should not be permitted to land as the extent of evil was incalculable. I accordingly had to write him a letter to this effect, to be forwarded on the morrow.

Wednesday, 26. Cap. Brind sailed with a fair wind from the Westd. Did not hear anything from Cap. Duke. I feel exceedingly thankful that we had resisted the earnest desires of Cap. Duke.

Friday, 28. Mr. Fairburn and I went up to the Kawakawa to visit the Natives. Those to whom I spoke did not evidence that interest which many others have. I was grieved to witness their insensibility. Several to whom Mr. Fairburn went paid great attention. On these occasions we do not go twice successively to the same settlement, but vary as much as possible, tho all the Natives in that district are spoken to.

Sunday, 30. Had no communication from Cap. Duke. After our Service I went to the 'Haumi. (Tohitapu and I had explained matters in the early part of the week.) The Natives generally, were inland at their cultivations. Poor Tohi tried to please me by his attention to what I say but alas he is very dead.

Monday, 1 October. Every appearance of strong wind from the Westd. Left as soon as possible for Kerikeri, to attend the Committee, where we arrived before noon. All well. Commenced business after dinner. In the eveng. held the prayer meeting as usual.

Tuesday, 2. At the Committee business all day, closed at 8 in the eveng., after a very agreeable and refreshg. meeting. When we consider the peculiarity of our situation and the frailty of our nature, all have abundant cause for praise, that the unity of the spirit in the bond of peace is so preserved amongst us, but still we are obliged to rest upon our arms.

Wednesday, 3. Ret'd to Marsden's Vale in the midst of a violent thunderstorm. All quiet.

Saturday, 6. Much rain and wind during the week, had many thoughts of our little vessel. Rec'd a note from Cap. Duke expressing his hope to see me on board the morrow, to perform Divine Service.

Sunday, 7. After service went to Kororarika. The crew were assembled by the time that I was on board; the crew very attentive; had particular pleasure in speaking to these people, after all that had passed. In the afternoon I went to the 'Haumi—two of Tohitapu's wives, with a few others, were all who were present. Tirangi

Te Rangi, brother of Korokoro and Tuhi of Paroa. All three chiefs were associated in welcoming Marsden and the missionaries in 1814.

, an old man, brother to old Korokoro

Korokoro, a famous chief of Paroa, who visited Marsden at Parramatta in 1814, returning with him in the Active. He shared in the welcome to the missionaries, and was present with his warriors on the occasion of Marsden's historic sermon, but continued his warrior's way, accompanying Te Morenga and Hongi in various campaigns. He was succeeded by his brother Tuhi, when he died from wounds at Katikati in 1823.

, was very ill and unable to move. I tried to speak a few words to him, shewing him his situation, and his need of a Saviour, but he was insensible to all I could say. His sickness came from us, he said, and that before we came sickness was not known. He was obstinate and would not hear a word of comfort. I was obliged to leave him as I found him.

Monday, 8. A heavy gale during the night from the Northd: felt anxious concerning our little Vessel: very bad weather for making the land. Strong gale all day with rain.

Tuesday, 9. Before midnight, we were startled by the sound of a gun but from the state of the weather I could not believe it possible to be the Herald, but a second and third put it beyond doubt. Our anxiety had been very great during these late heavy gales, and Mrs. W. was sleeping with Mrs. Davis who had been taken ill during the afternoon from her fears and apprehension. In an instant all was in motion, muskets firing, the boys shouting, fires blazing and persons running in all directions to launch the boat. —In about a quarter of an hour we were on board the Herald and with very much thankfulness learnt that all was well. Mr. Davis delivered many Colonial letters to us which were exceedingly gratifying. Mr. Stack

James Stack joined the Wesleyan mission in New Zealand under Leigh in 1823, and was the only member of the Wesleyan mission who was familiar with the Maori language. In 1827 when the mission was abandoned, he went to Sydney, but returned soon afterwards and chose Mangungu for the re-establishment of the mission under Hobbs. In 1831 he went to England to study for Holy Orders, but accepted lay service under the C.M.S., and in 1835 was appointed to Manga-pouri under Hamlin. Trouble with the Maoris caused his transfer to the Bay of Islands where he remained until 1838, when he went to Tauranga. In 1842 he went to the East Cape as locum tenens to the Rev. William Williams. Ill health caused his return to England in 1847.

of the Wesleyan Mission was on board. We were all glad to see him, for he is a valuable youth. Mr. Mair

Gilbert Mair visited the Bay of Islands in his own vessel in 1821 and settled there three years later. He assisted Henry Williams in the building of the Herald, which he commanded until its wreck at Hokianga in 1828. Marrying Elizabeth, sister of William G. Puckey, he lived at Paihia till 1832, when he set up as a trader at Wahapu. Mair and Busby were partners in exporting timber, gum and flax, and in land, at Ngunguru.

, the young man who had finished the Herald, & had since had the command of her, had a few days previous to the sailing of the Schr., married the sister of Wm. Puckey, she had always been an excellent character amongst us…. We have no doubt but that they will be very happy together and very useful to the Mission. Mr. Mair is an active and well behaved young man. All we saw and heard called forth our gratitude to our Lord and Master, who hath declared that all things shall work together for good. We have every reason to rely with implicit faith in Him, and to be careful for nothing. We retired to rest for one hour a little before daylight. —The gale broke in the former part of the night, & the sky was tolerably clear before the Vessel anchored. We were in much bustle through the day, and in the evening assembled a considerable body, all the Males in the Mission being assembled except Mr. Hamlin.

I must here express my regret that no copper can be obtained either from England or the Colony for the Herald; if some measure be not speedily entered upon we may apprehend something serious to her. I shall endeavour to preserve her from all unnecessary expense, but should wish that any application which I may make on her account, be considered without delay, and referred to those who understand the nature of these matters: £50 have already been lost on this account, besides the detention of the Vessel during her repair.

Tuesday, 9. Landed a few things from the Herald, but the weather came on very dirty—and we were obliged to leave off.

Wednesday, 10. The day free from rain, but considerable wind; conveyed some casks on shore.

Thursday, 11. The weather the same as yesterday. The wharf has proved of the greatest service, for tho there was considerable surf on the beach, the goods were landed very comfortably.

Friday, 12. It had been determined that the Herald should move towards the Kerikeri, for the convenience of landing the goods for that settlement & the general stores, but as she may be detained over Sunday, and the crew are in want of refreshment, having been under water all the passage, I detained her until Monday.

Saturday, 13. Went to Rangihou for the purpose of spending the Sabbath with the Brethren. All well there. It is indeed a disconsolate place.

Sunday, 14. The day exceedingly fine. The Service as usual about eleven o'clock. After dinner I accompanied Mr. Shepherd to several small settlements. None of the Natives appeared to shew any pleasure in attending to what was said to them, but generally quite the contrary. I accounted for this in a great measure from their extensive intercourse with the Shipping. My boys invariably make some pleasing observations when they go to Rangihou, as the Natives there pay very little regard to the Sabbath Day.

Monday, 15. Fine morning. Mr. Shepherd and I left early in order to meet the Herald on her way to the Kerikeri river. About 9 o'clock she anchored as far up the river as was prudent for her to go: the canoes and boats were down in time, and all the goods were out before sunset, when we weighed & made sail for the Anchorage under Motuorangi. I arrived at home about 8 o'clock.

Tuesday, 23. Nothing particular during the past week, except that it has been blowing a gale from the Eastd. This day somewhat finer. Mr. Davis & I commenced the building of a chimney for my new kitchen, the materials very rude, the base will be of shapeless stones out of the sea, the upper part we shall construct of bricks in which were mixed a number of shells, which in the burning have burned to lime; these bricks are therefore so tender as scarcely to bear handling.

Saturday, 27. After much fatigue Mr. Davis and I left off work at 2 o'clock, having mastered the most laborious part of our chimney, the barrel has yet to be carried up, but our lime is so bad we must needs burn some fresh before we can conclude. The prospect of the Sabbath is very refreshing. Our Natives behave very well. This week has been full of bustle. On Tuesday evening Mrs. W. W. was delivered of a fine little girl

Jane Elizabeth, who married her cousin Henry Williams jnr.

. On Thursday, Mrs. Hamlin, after much lingering, was safely delivered of a fine boy. These two cases with my chimney have greatly interrupted our attention at the Language, but I trust we shall now be more steady.

Very great are our daily mercies; we now form a considerable body, and yet illness is not known amongst us.

Sunday, 28. The day very fine. After Service, I went as usual to the 'Haumi: none of the Natives at home except four old women. Our intercourse with these characters is in general very dull, as they are possessed with an idea that our message does not extend to them. It was with difficulty I could gain their attention. On my return home I met with a small party of Natives from the Waikari. They inquired our reason for having so long neglected them. They said it was impossible that they should understand unless we were frequent in our visits. I told them that our desire to see them was very great, but that the weather had been very bad. I had much pleasing conversation with them. A great relief after those lifeless old ladies. They inquired much respecting the school & whether they might be admitted.

Monday, 29. In the afternoon news arrived that Tikoikoi, that Savage who paid me a visit some time since, was on his way for the purpose of helping himself to blankets and iron pots & anything else which might fall in his way. This did not much affect me, tho it was particularly to me that the compliment was intended. In these cases I endeavour to discover the path of duty, regardless of the Natives, and act accordingly, casting myself at the same time on the arm of the Lord, and though we may have yet to suffer the spoiling of our goods, I hope we may do it joyfully and have grace to maintain our ground.

Tuesday, 30. It had been our intention to go this morning up to the Waikari to visit the natives, but as Hepatahi

Hepatahi, chief of Te Aute.

and some other Chiefs from the interior came early into the Settlement, stating that they had travelled in the night to tell us that Tikoikoi with a large party was near at hand, and that they had come to frustrate his designs, I felt thankful to our Heavenly Father for this interference of His Providence. Before I was aware indeed Tikoikoi and his party arrived before the fence, marching toward the gate. I had but time to hasten to meet him outside the gate, which I immediately closed and placed my back against it. He presented his nose to me, which compliment I accordingly returned. He was accompanied by an excellent character—Ware Nui, who is termed the peace maker by the Natives, as he is thus engaged on all occasions. When I saw him I was fully persuaded that no mischief would take place. He ordered his people to sit down while we entered into a parley. He stated to the Chiefs present that I had invited him to the house some time since, and had not given him a present and that when I saw him at the 'Haumi I told him that he would be cast into fire and brimstone, & that this fight was on that account to seek satisfaction. We could not but laugh at these charges, which greatly threw him off his balance. We told him it was his mistake to imagine that he was intitled to any present, that we never did any such thing, and that he had better direct his fight against Toitapu, who had prompted him to expect any present. In answer to the second charge, we said that these were the words of God to him and to all men, for this purpose alone we had come to the land to warn them to flee from the wrath to come, that they were not our words, but were delivered by us in love, that he might not die but have everlasting life. To this he could not say a word. The Chiefs acknowledged the truth of what we said. He told us he had come to make peace, and wanted something to be given in consequence. We did not however think it by any means proper, as the whole had originated with himself and it would have a bad effect amongst the Natives, and the victory would be declared on his side, whereas now I consider we have gained a very signal one. In a short time he turned away in a rage, and some of the Natives gazed at us, not knowing what to think, considering it impossible that we should resist his importunities. Our friendly Chiefs gladly partook of some flour, and in a short time all was quiet. In the afternoon our Natives again cried out that Tikoikoi was returning. We accordingly turned out, but their appearance was very different from that of the morning. They came in procession without arms. Some were carrying small baskets of cooked potatoes, which were distributed two to each of our houses. The old man walked in great state at their head. They again retired as soon as possible. I had a few words of conversation with Tikoikoi before he left us.

Wednesday, 31. After breakfast Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Waikari to visit the Natives. We arrived in good time and found the people sitting in the expectation of Tikoikoi to have a fight with them, perhaps to kill some, the occasion of which, was, we understood, in consequence of their having given a name to one of their places the same as that of one of Tikoikoi's people. Our friend Ware Nui was already there to parry off the threatened blow. The Natives were very attentive. Before we departed the account came that the canoes were close at hand. We immediately departed, taking with us two girls and one boy for the school. We soon saw the canoes apparently in consultation. I felt that it was possible that we might be insulted by them. We prepared for a good pull as we approached. Tikoikoi was holding a harangue. I spoke to them, but none replied. There were about three hundred people.

Friday, 2 November. In the afternoon many of the Natives returned from Waikari; also Ware Nui. We felt a great desire to express our approbation of his conduct, as the general mediator between contending parties, by presenting him with a piece of scarlet cloth, which Mr. Marsden had sent me about three years since. We accordingly did so. The old man appeared greatly delighted. After which Mr. Fairburn and I went to Wangai to visit the Natives there. The day was very fine. They were very busy planting kumaras; but most of them came as soon as called, and we had a very attentive congregation. I have witnessed some of their superstitious ceremonies over their fishing nets. I warned them to flee from these lying vanities and turn to the Lord before it was too late.

Saturday, 3.

This entry was in the typescript from the C.M.S., London, but was not on the microfilm copy.

This morning we received letters from Hokianga, some private and some others from the Society, by the —–, with one from Mr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, who has returned again to the island. He has particularly solicited Mr. Davis and myself to go over and render them some assistance in the laying of their foundation. We feel it our duty to comply.

Monday, 5. At sunrise Messrs. R. and C. Davis, Mr. Stack and myself left Paihia in the boat for Kerikeri on our way to 'Ho-kianga. We arrived about ten o'clock, and were received with that usual kindness for which the brethren there are famed. They had prepared many little matters for our journey, which greatly refreshed us, before we had advanced far. By twelve we had crossed the fall, in all fifteen with the Natives who carried our luggage. The road was open and level a few swamps to pass through. We did not meet a Native. About an hour before sunset, we brought to and pitched our tent in a very comfortable spot, amidst high fern and close to a beautiful stream of water. We there assembled our natives for prayer and partook of our repast of which we stood greatly in need. In our hurry we had forgotten to bring oil for the lamp and consequently were deprived of much pleasure as we were obliged to sit in darkness. Our ten boys were very cheerful and we passed a very comfortable night. Our bed of fern tops was very soft.

Tuesday, 6. At daylight strong indications of much rain, the wind from N.E. We were very doubtful of the day and did not know whether to remain or proceed. After breakfast our boys urged us to move on. The sky at the time more cheering, we accordingly packed up our baggage and by seven o'clock were all on the road. In less than an hour we entered the woods in which we continued to the end of our journey. The weather was very close and sultry, as we had no wind the road was tolerably comfortable. About noon we met Mr. S. Butler with two passengers of the vessel in which Mr. Hobbs came. They were on the way to the Bay of Islands, a number of natives with them. By two o'clock we arrived at Patuone's

Patuone was the elder brother of Tamati Waka Nene, and famed as a great warrior. He was protector of the missionaries and also of Thomas McDonell's shipyard at Herd's Point. Baptized by Henry Williams with the Christian names of Eruera Maihi [Edward Marsh], he became a devout Christian. He married the sister of Te Kupenga, the Ngati-Paoa chief of Whakatiwai, and went to live there in the 1830s.

place, and heard that Mr. Hobbs

John Hobbs, a coachbuilder from the Isle of Thanet, came to New Zealand with Marsden and Henry Williams in 1823, and joined the Wesleyan mission at Kaeo. After the destruction of that station, he and Stack opened a station at Mangungu in 1828. In 1833 he went to Tonga, but later returned to New Zealand and served his Church with zeal and integrity. He died in 1883.

was about a mile off on the opposite side of the river. We discharged our pieces as a signal for the boat. In about a quarter of an hour she came and conveyed us to the spot where Mr. Hobbs was. However as we had much to consult upon we returned to our former place and pitched the tent which was no sooner done than it began to rain and continued all night sometimes with considerable violence. We were enabled to pass a comfortable night, as it did not penetrate. Owing to the rain our boys could not be assembled at evening prayer, they therefore, without saying a word to us, sang and went to prayer by themselves in a very orderly and pleasing manner. The strangers about us behaved very well. Patuone came to see us when it was determined that Mr. Hobbs and Stack should settle at this spot.

Wednesday, 7. The morning very fine. As soon as the tide would answer we all went down the river to the Brig, when we saw Mrs. Hobbs and Miss Bedford

Miss Bedford had recently come from England to join the Wesleyan mission.

with whom we were much pleased considering them very suitable characters. We spent an agreeable afternoon.

Thursday, 8. The morning fine. After an early breakfast, we proceeded up the river with Mrs. Hobbs, Mrs. Wade

Mrs. Wade, wife of Luke Wade, servant to the Wesleyan missionaries.

and Miss Bedford, four canoes alongside for the purpose of disembarking the goods. We were soon up to the settlement, the canoes with baggage in company. One half of a long native house had been prepared for the reception of the females and goods it was neatly filled up with the nikau and made very comfortable. The boxes and casks received this day were all housed.

Friday, 9. The second turn of canoes came up with the goods this morning. The casks which were most of them very heavy were landed very well. The crews of the canoes became very importunate to be paid before they landed any further some of them were noisy but after a little talking they were moderated. It was determined today that Miss Bedford should return with us to the Bay of Islands until the Brethren here are more settled and the house which was in progress should be habitable.

Saturday, 10. About noon the canoes again returned from the Brig having only a few pieces of scantling and some bricks. The paying of the men was done very quietly but to settle with two boys was not so easy. Mr. Hobbs gave what he considered just but their relatives disapproved. Several of them were exceedingly saucy and threatening but we stood our ground and they departed after about two hours' noise. Made every preparation for the services of the morrow and also for our departure on Monday morning.

Sunday, 11. Service at 10 o'clock, when I addressed our little party from Eph. 6. 10. After dinner I accompanied Mr. Hobbs up the River, where were several native settlements. We spoke to a large party who said they had been waiting for us for a considerable time. Some disputed our word others paid great attention.

Monday, 12. With all expedition we prepared for our march towards the Keri Keri, and by 8 o'clock took our departure from Waihou, Miss Bedford in company. As is the custom in this land we were obliged to walk singly, the paths being so very narrow. We had some very ugly places to pass over as there are several small rivers but deep over which a tree had fallen. It required the greatest care that we did not fall tho the natives would run across like cats. I was surprised to see with what ease Miss B. performed her part. By 3 o'clock we were through the woods and as the remainder of the road was level country we made considerable advance towards the Keri Keri. Before 6 o'clock we pitched the tent and made a very comfortable habitation for Miss B. at the back while we took up our lodging at the door. The night was fine but as I had obtained a reinforcement of fleas my attention was very much taken up with them during the whole night.

Tuesday, 13. We were early on the road. The morning was very fine. With some little difficulty we passed the swamps and by 1 o'clock we arrived at the Keri Keri very much oppressed by the heat. Here we met with every attention, and were soon refreshed by change of linen and a good dinner. About four o'clock we departed for Paihia where we arrived before sunset. Very great are our causes of thankfulness. Most of the children had been very unwell but were now much better. I felt stiff. It was very cheering to return to the Settlement amidst the welcome of sixty Europeans and natives. We had been absent 9 days but as there is no post we know not till we are at home whether all is well or not. But our Lord and Master is very mindful of us and hath never allowed the hair to fall from the head of any of mine during my absence.

Wednesday, 14. Gave orders for the Herald to sail on Monday next.

Thursday, 15. By noon the Brethren from the Kerikeri and Rangihou arrived to attend a Committee previous to the sailing of the Herald. We could not conclude our business this evening.

Friday, 16. It was past 4 o'clock before the brethren returned home after which I continued my writing to the Colony. About 9 o'clock P.M. I received a note from the Surgeon of the Research one of the Company's Cruisers stating that one of his patients was on the point of death and particularly wished to see me which summons I immediately obeyed. The man was at Kororarika. We called on board on our way when I saw Capn. Dillon: he was very ill and could scarcely move. I thought a word would be seasonable and spoke accordingly but he was on the rack in an instant and changed the subject. The Surgeon and I then went on shore where I was taken to the sick man. He appeared in great pain both in body and mind. He was very ignorant, but had pleasing indications about him. I spoke to him and the bystanders for a length of time upon our state by nature & the love of God in calling us to eternal life. All listened. From this man I was called to one of the mates who was ill to whom I spoke upon eternal things but he soon assured me that his sickness was not unto death as he had considerably improved since he had been on shore. Captains Duke & Kent and others hearing that I was on shore came and joined us whose attention I called to the importance of making our calling and election sure. Upon the whole I was much pleased at an opportunity to show forth the truths of the Gospel and the conduct of all present. The word of God is quick and powerful none can resist its might. It was past one when I arrived at home.

Saturday, 17. Engaged in writing and settling Accounts in connection with the vessel.

Sunday, 18. After service I went over to Kororarika according to appointment, and met about 20 seamen at Capn. Duke's house, where we held divine service. I spoke to them from Is. 53. 1. I afterwards called upon the sick man I saw on Friday night he was much better in his person. On my return to Paihia I went to the 'Haumi. There were but few persons there and they very indifferent. I could not get them to attend. On my way home I fell in with a fishing party of between 20 and 30 persons: they assembled readily and attended well.

Monday, 19. The natives from the Kowa Kowa came to agree about the selling of the land at Oeotutu to us. It has long been the haunt of females who visit the shipping and other bad characters moreover it is much wanted by us for the enlargement of the settlement. The whole morning was occupied in this business. I closed my letters for the Colony by 3 P.M. and went on board the Herald. She immediately weighed, and made sail with a fair wind from the Eastd. As our hands were now set at liberty we turned our thoughts towards the natives at Taeamai whither Mr. Fairburn and myself proposed to go in the morning.

Tuesday, 20. The morning heavy and inclined for rain, heavy rain before noon. The weather cleared up towards the close of the day. Determined to move in the morning weather permitting.

Wednesday, 21. Some indication of wet, wind from the Eastd. By 10 o'clock Mr. Fairburn myself and five natives had crossed the Waitangi on our way. We had to ascend a very high hill, from the top of which we had a bird's-eye view of the Bay and could see the Islands of Matauri and Wangaroa.

The islands off Whangaroa Harbour and Matauri Bay.

On the other side we had a most extensive and beautiful view I had yet beheld in this land. We had a level country before us interspersed with wood and bounded with high hills. At one we halted to dine by the side of a fine stream of water and then proceeded. At ¼ past 3 arrived at the Aute. 'Hepetahi was here with a number of his people. From their long continued intercourse with the shipping their state is peculiarly awful they evidently did not like my message tho they were very respectful. Mr. Fairburn had passed on to some other settlement. I was detained here much longer than I had intended as the natives were very importunate that we should wait for some cooked food. We afterwards continued our journey through woods and cleared spots until we overtook Mr. Fairburn, who was seated amongst an interesting group. As the sun was yet high we considered it better to move forward and look out for comfortable lodging. About half an hour before sunset we pitched our tent on a bank in a small river about three yards from the stream and a foot above its surface high banks on either side. We took our supper by the light of a candle and enjoyed our milk which had been provided with care and rolled up in a blanket. The night was very clear, and after assembling our boys and commending ourselves to the Lord we fell asleep and passed a very comfortable night. The boys slept under the bank. Some showers during the night.

Thursday, 22. At daylight began to make preparations for moving. Every appearance of an easterly gale and much rain the sand flying rapidly along. By 6 a.m. we were on the road and soon arrived at Temaranga's

Te Morenga, a famous chief of the Uri-kapana hapu of Ngapuhi, whose kainga was at Taiamai. He became the trusted friend of Marsden, and, though a great warrior, was a friend to the missionaries and a protagonist for English authority to be established in New Zealand. He was a party to the sale of land at Pakaraka to Henry Williams in 1833.

place from whence I turned off to Powerua taking a guide a lively youth who kept me in conversation the whole way. We passed several places but there were no natives. At length we came suddenly upon two old women who were the wives of the principal chiefs they immediately hailed us with pleasure, and sent off to call the men who were digging fern root at a distance. We assembled about 20 who behaved very well. After I had remained as long as I thought sufficient we returned into the main road, several heavy showers during our walk. We passed a number of houses but saw no natives until we came to the suburbs of Taeamai. Here the natives came running from all quarters and we assembled between 50 and 60 persons. I spoke to them at some length but many were disposed to treat us with the greatest indifference however I was enabled to silence some and others paid considerable attention. I then proceeded on with my guide and soon came to Huhu's

Huhu, a chief of the Taiamai, who died at Manowenua about the end of 1837.

place, where he was sitting in great state under a shed and surrounded by a number of children the men being generally at work. I spoke principally to him he listened very politely but evidently shewed a desire to change the subject. He brought out an old gun which he much wished to exchange for my fowling piece which he had seen with one of our boys. From Huhu I passed on to Tupe's

Tupe, a Ngaituhunga chief of Whangaroa, wounded in the “Girls' War”. He was baptized by the Rev. William Williams in 1835.

place, which is called Heru (a comb), from the circumstance that a comb had formerly been dropped there. The boys had already pitched the tent, a considerable number of natives were gazing on but very quiet. In less than an hour it commenced in good earnest both to blow and rain, which obliged us to sit close during the remainder of the day, it increased towards night and presented but an uncomfortable prospect for us, and we were a little apprehensive of being blown over but we were thankful to perceive that everything held fast. Our evening repast was very comfortable under all circumstances. The rain beat in a little on the weather side a little fire was brought into the tent which was somewhat needed. We called the Natives in for our evening worship, and after commending ourselves to the Lord we spread our blankets and passed a comfortable night's rest. Towards daylight the wind changed and the rain subsided.

Friday, 23. The weather appeared promising and by 7 a.m. we were all ready to march. Our party moved homeward, while I remained with those natives who were living near us and spoke to them for more than half an hour but was much pained by their indifference and hardness of heart. The road was cleaner than I expected the streams of water were considerably swollen and as I did not like to be carried on the natives' shoulders where the water was so deep I waded through. About 1 p.m. we halted to dine and rested nearly an hour. We then turned aside for the Morere a considerable Settlement but before we arrived we observed a party of natives digging fern root to which we went. They received us kindly, and as soon as we expressed a desire to speak to them they assembled and attended very pleasingly. We then had to ascend a very high hill and to pass through several small woods before the bay opened to our view. From this point our movements were quick and we arrived at home before sunset when with gratitude we met our families well.

Sunday, 25. After service I went to Kororarika and met the Europeans at Capn. Duke's house they attended well. On my return I was greatly interrupted and prevented from going to the 'Haumi.

Saturday, 1 December. Mr. and Mrs. Clarke and family arrived to dinner. Every one at the Kerikeri had been ill with the influenza as also everyone in the settlement for the last week. Most of the Natives continue unwell and many of the Europeans.

Sunday, 2. My brother's little girl was this morning baptised Mrs. Clarke was one of the sponsors. After service I went on board the Research Capn. Dillon about 10 persons were present. Capn. D. had been sent for by a sick man in order to make out his will. This afternoon a letter was received by W. Puckey stating the sudden death of his father….

Monday, 3. About noon Messrs. Hamlin and Hobbs arrived from the Kerikeri all well. The news relative to Mr. Puckey confirmed he was found dead in the morning…. The two children are here and conduct themselves very well. William we trust is walking in the fear of the Lord. His sister is very well disposed and is married to Mr. Mair, the young man who commands the Herald. We look forward to their both being eminently useful. The brethren from Rangehoe did not come perhaps owing to the illness of the boats crews. In the evening we held our Prayer Meeting. I addressed the brethren from Matt. 12. 49, 50. Some were prevented by illness from attending, but we had an agreeable and profitable season.

Tuesday, 4. Most of the day engaged in discussing upon subjects of importance in the mission.

Wednesday, 5. This morning fine. As Mr. Hobbs had stated that there was accommodation for Miss Bedford at their station at Waihou, after breakfast he with Miss B. in company with Mr. Clarke and my brother took their departure to 'Hokianga by boat as far as the Kerikeri. During the few days that this young person has been amongst us each individual in the settlement has been exceedingly grieved, our opinions have gradually changed to the opposite extreme of what they originally were. We may err, but I fear not. The latter part of the day engaged in writing to the colony and giving necessary directions to our boys. Since the departure of our two working carpenters and men upon all occasions much more labour falls necessarily to us and tends to hinder us in our more important work.

Thursday, 6. As several persons were sick with the influenza, and my brother absent, I took the opportunity to make preparation for the finishing of my formidable chimney, which Mr. Davis and I had commenced.

Friday, 7. The stage of the chimney mortar mixed and boys in attendance by 8 o'clock when I commenced upon the barrel of my chimney. Mr. Davis engaged with the English boys until 10 o'clock. The day very hot. We did not quit our work till quite dusk much fatigued with stooping. Capn. Duke called and hindered me.

Saturday, 8. As we wished much to finish our work Mr. Davis and I commenced early upon it but it was near 4 o'clock before we left off. The prayer meeting in the evening was a great comfort. My little boy Thomas who has been very ill during the week has this day been greatly recovered.

Sunday, 9. Service as usual after which I went over to Korora-reka to meet the Europeans at Capn. Duke's house to attend Divine service. We mustered but 7 the remainder were intoxicated with some rum out of Capn. Dillon's vessel. On my return home I proceeded to the 'Haumi. Tohi tapu was very unwell he could scarcely see, most of his people were ill. Tho a little roused by my presence they were very dead. Messrs. Davis and Fairburn left the settlement before the morning service to visit Tekoke our old Chief and others who were very ill. They returned home before sunset and gave but an unfavourable report. As we were going to our evening service a young man landed from a canoe and stated that he had been second Officer of Capn. Dillon's ship but that he had been turned on shore without any means of subsistence and owing to some letters he had written, he was in great dread that Capn. Dillon should procure his death, and he entreated me to allow him to remain as a servant for that he should be happy to do anything that he might be protected by us. I asked him to look at my chimney, which we had the evening before concluded, and to tell me whether he thought it was from choice or necessity that I engaged in those matters. I told him we had numbers of Europeans at command, but that unless we felt assured that a man would conduct himself with propriety we could not allow one to remain amongst us. As he appeared frightened to return within the jurisdiction of Capn. Dillon, after some consultation with the brethren here we gave him permission to remain until Capn. Dillon should sail.

Monday, 10. Received a letter from Capn. Dillon respecting his subscription to the Bethel Union society, which I had proposed to him and his officers when I saw them last. In the afternoon I went on board, he was very polite and made a subscription amongst his officers. I afterwards called on Capn. Duke and Kent, who subscribed each £3, and a Mr. Earl £1

Augustus Earle, an English artist, who landed in Hokianga in 1827 and travelled overland to the Bay of Islands. He spent six months sketching and studying the Maori people from his headquarters in Kororareka. In 1832 he published The Narrative of a Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand. The book attacked the C.M.S. missionaries, and caused a great deal of trouble. His criticisms were so ill-founded that they merited the rebuke of Baron von Huegel, an Austrian botanist who visited New Zealand on H.M.S. Alligator in 1834, quoted in George Clarke's journal of 31 March 1834: “De work did begin wit a lie, it went on wit a lie, and it did end wit a lie.”

, making in all £15. On the 1st of January I purpose making a collection amongst the brethren when I shall transmit the list of subscriptions to you. My brother returned from Hukeanga having left the Wesleyan Settlement at 4 o'clock a.m. the most expeditious trip ever performed.

Tuesday, 11. Mrs. Clarke and children with some of Mr. Davis' went up to the Kerikeri. The day squally. Engaged the latter part of the day plastering the chimney.

Thursday, 13. Capt. Dillon sailed. My brother and myself engaged the whole of this day and yesterday plastering and repairing some of the cells of the Beehive

The name given to the first house built at Paihia.

, as the school for the female children of the Mission is to commence next week in it. Our performance has been fair and may prove a valuable discovery for future house-builders and repairers in this land for years to come. The Chapel is in a state of forwardness. It is greatly required.

Saturday, 15. At daylight several war canoes were reported as pulling towards Waitanga, and we soon heard that it was Tareha and Kira

Kira, a chief collaborating with Tareha. His kainga was at Matauri. His son had lived with Marsden at Parramatta for twelve months, and returned with him in the Active to New Zealand.

on a stripping expedition. Our boys were in immediate motion. About 9 o'clock they returned with a considerable quantity of potatoes which they had taken in the general scramble but as they were conscious that we should not approve of their behaviour they concealed the greater portion in the sand on the beach. As soon as we were acquainted with these proceedings we instituted a search and were sorry to find that all the natives had been sharing in the honours of the day. The potatoes were collected together, in order to return to the man from whom they had been taken. Taewanga a very promising native was very angry at the idea of having his house examined; but it was necessary that we should put an effective stop to our boys entering into any of these affairs. Most of the natives saw the impropriety of their conduct and cheerfully relinquished all right to their spoil. It had been my intention to have gone to the Kerikeri to remain over the sabbath, but the wind was so strong against me that I was obliged to remain. Occupied until near 4 p.m. finishing the plastering of one of the rooms— very weary, and greatly enjoyed the prayer meeting in the evening.

Sunday, 16. Morning fine. While in the midst of our service, we were called out by our natives as the plundering party which had been clearing the neighbouring of Waitangi of everything they could put their hands upon had assembled around my brother's fence and were in the act of jumping over to take up the potatoes which were growing, and were our all to which we could look. We were soon in the midst of them and never have I seen persons better disposed for mischief since I have been in the island: there were upwards of a hundred. We called off their attention as soon as we began to speak to them, and asked them if they were come to attend prayers as it was the ratapu. They were somewhat amused at this change of subject and desired us to speak to them. They immediately sat around very orderly when each of us successively addressed them. Some paid attention, others were disappointed, but after remaining somewhat more than an hour they cleared off. They had a number of empty baskets with them for the purpose of taking away the potatoes. We afterwards sent to Tareha and Kira, to ask the reason of this unwelcome visit. They sent word that their people had come without authority. By this circumstance I was prevented from going over to Kororareka. 'Hepatahi with some friendly chiefs hearing that these people were at our place came and remained during the afternoon. I paid a visit to Tohitapu. He was very unwell. The state of his mind as usual. Our natives on watch all night.

Monday, 17. Tareha's and Kira's party departed at the break of day for Kororareka. About 11 o'clock we observed Capn. Duke's premises on fire and conjecturing that the party had gone there this morning had been troublesome and had probably stripped the europeans there, Mr. Davis and I went over to learn particulars. We found Capn. Duke standing amidst the wreck of his property and were much relieved by hearing that he considered the fire as accidental. We remained some time and returned to Paihia we offered him every assistance in our power. Mr. Kemp brought his little girl to school which commenced this day. The circumstance of the burning of Capn. Duke's house has made us somewhat thoughtful relative to raupo buildings. They are very comfortable and soon built, but a single spark is sufficient to put them in motion. This question will require some consideration but wattle and dab is exceedingly expeditious and very durable.

Tuesday, 18. Capn. Duke came over and seriously hindered us all. He stated his loss at £160 by the fire his store was saved. We furnished him with some cups and saucers plates tumblers, &c., &c., tea sugar and soap.

Thursday, 20. Concluded the building of an oven which was commenced on Monday morning by Mr. Davis, my brother and myself. It called forth all our skill ingenuity and patience to construct the roof but by filling the centre with sand we formed a very good arch and fitted the bricks in very tight. This is a valuable piece of furniture and as our family is now sixteen europeans we shall find it of considerable relief to labour.

Friday, 21. At sun rise Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Waikari. The natives were generally unwell not yet recovered from this illness which has been so universal. They insisted that it had been brought by Capn. Dillon's ship owing to the Doctor's having drawn two teeth of an extraordinary size of a native belonging to one of the islands at which they had touched. Many new zealanders on board had witnessed the operation this is believed by them all. We administered several doses of physic and applied some blisters. They attended well to all we had to say and had much conversation should be paid for attending. I told them this was reversing the upon the merits of the school they wished that all the children state of the question from what it was with us, for that in Europe the teachers were the persons paid. This checked their solicitation. They asked what would be a proper payment for them to give. I told them potatoes would be a very good payment for that the children stood much in need of some. They replied that it would be very good, but I have no expectation of seeing any.

Saturday, 22. As the wind had been exceedingly boisterous lately from the Westd. I determined today to walk overland to the Keri-keri rather than go by water as the passage would be long and tedious accordingly near noon I commenced my journey, in company with one native. The distance is perhaps not more than 14 miles but a most weary road being a succession of hills. The weather was very hot and though two months since water could be obtained at every half mile we could not discover any until we arrived close to the Kerikeri, except at one hole where it was quite warm. I suffered more from thirst than ever I had before. My mouth became quite salt, and I was apprehensive that I must have remained till the cool of the evening but encouraged in the hope of finding water I proceeded and at length came to a beautiful stream, where I immediately recovered strength. Indeed how dependent we daily are for that portion which we require and how little is the want of this most valuable part of our sustenance known among the children of men. Without water we soon grow faint and wither like grass of the field which is our image. This may show us our need of being watered from on high, that we may obtain strength and flourish as trees of the planting of the Lord. All the brethren were well and I spent a very pleasant evening. Mrs. Kemp was anxious about her little girl which may show with what difficulty the mothers would have parted with their children to have gone to the Colony to school.

Sunday, 23. After service we proceeded to Mongonui partly by water and partly by land where were several parties of natives from Waimate for the purpose of fishing. Some attended well, to others it was a very dead letter. One old man who was making a fishing net would not attend he pretended he was deaf. Of this I felt persuaded, and changed the subject. I asked him in a low voice if he would not buy some powder. This was music in his ears and restored him to his perfect hearing. This river mongonui abounds with fish there are a number of small beautiful bays on either side but the land is very barren and a succession of hills.

Monday, 24. My boat arrived about 9 o'clock from Paihia. At 2 p.m. I landed on our own beach. All well.

Tuesday, 25. As this was Christmas day the services were observed as on the sabbath. Though the first deviation during my life in the non-observation of the old English custom of partaking of roast beef and plum pudding for in these respects we become more indifferent daily as to what our portion may be. Each day has its appointed duty and requires no small consideration. After dinner at 11 o'clock we separated as usual to visit the Natives when I proceeded to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu though unwell appeared glad to see me and immediately ordered his people to assemble. He told me that one family he had been very angry with (Terange) because he would not attend and that he understood he had been insolent to me some time since when he was absent, he had therefore sent him away and asked me when he should recall him. I told him that he had been very insolent, but that he had better send for him back. In the course of our conversation Tohi insisted that he was a believer in God and Jesus Christ for that formerly he was angry a little and killed and bewitched numbers and always delighted in wickedness but now he sat at his place, he slept all Sunday, that we had told him to cast away his evil dispositions and he had done so, that we had told him not to fight, this also he had attended to, &c., &c. I replied that he was a believer in proportion as he hated sin and loved him who had paid the debt of sin. Upon the whole I was pleased with him, and hope he may yet be brought to feel his condition. He has proved of service to us and may yet do so for he is a man of considerable note and influence, and as we may yet see many conflicting seasons amongst this extraordinary people we must keep him near us. 'Hongi's death appears approaching when to all human probability there will be much confusion. Tinana

Tinana, of Waimate, a relative of Hongi and one of his fighting chiefs. There were other chiefs of this name.

, a Chief of Waimate, told the brethren of the Kerikeri the other day that they would have to look out when that event took place for that they certainly would be stripped but that would be all. Of this we have no doubt, and it is by no means improbable that each settlement will share the same fate. It has been reported, that 'Hongi is coming to this place for the benefit of medicine but we hope not, for should he die here we shall be trampled down by the multitudes which will assemble.

Thursday, 27. My brother with Messrs. C. Davis, Fairburn and Puckey and a number of natives went this morning up the Kawakawa for the purpose of cutting timber as none is brought for purchase. My boys commenced the digging of a well close to the house, and cut through 7 feet of sand before they came to clay which was not more than 2 feet deep after which was rock.

Friday, 28. At daylight the mother of Tangatanui came and brought her back. She is a promising little girl but ran off a few days since because some of the others had scolded her for breaking a bason. We were glad to see her back. Tearapero a chief residing near us whose relation had been outlawed for some time past brought his brother who had killed some geese of mine about a year since to make peace: he presented 5 ketes of potatoes which I received with much pleasure, and our differences were accordingly settled. As Mr. Davis and myself were the only Europeans in the settlement the natives were unavoidably left to themselves. At the School Mr. D. took the english boys and I was required elsewhere but had an opportunity of watching the movements of the School, and was exceedingly pleased to observe the order which prevailed. There were four classes a monitor to each but as much attention was paid as though we all had been present. They make considerable progress and their desire to learn cannot be exceeded by any in our own land. Men women and children the gentry of the different orders and their slaves all are on one footing with us and classed together according to their knowledge. Rangituke called this morning to say that Tekoke and himself intended to build a new settlement at his point as they all wished to be nearer to us. This will be very much better in many points of view and humanly speaking will place on a more substantial footing than heretofore and enable us to present a more formidable appearance to these stripping parties which are continually passing on every side.

Saturday, 29. At noon left Paihia for Rangihou with the view of passing the Sabbath with the brethren there. On my landing I learnt that Mrs. Shepherd had been safely delivered of a boy three weeks before, both she and the infant are doing well. Took up my lodging at their house.

Sunday, 30. Every appearance of rain, which is greatly wanted as the ground is dried up. In the afternoon the rain descended by which we were prevented from going out. Had much agreeable conversation with Messrs. Shepherd and King, and happy to observe a general improvement. Mr. King has a considerable number of children that is native children under instruction to whom he pays a great deal of attention. It is true he has neither much energy nor method, but there is no doubt that he goes on as well as he can. He is a pious man and has endured many trials in the land.

Monday, 31. Retd. to Paihia. All well. Mr. Stack from Waihou Hokeanga had arrived to obtain advice.

II January to November 1828

Problems of food — Interview between Ngapuhi and Kawakawa — Hongi's death — Whareumu killed — Peace expedition to Hokianga — Arranging escape for Rotorua party — Voyage to Whakatane, Opotiki, Tauranga — Rangituke killed — Litany read in Maori — Peacemaking at Waitangi.

Tuesday, 1 January 1828. New Year's day. As we have again arrived to another period in our journey thro' life, I can scarcely proceed without stopping a moment to take a view of the past. The last year commenced in trouble in the overthrow of the Mission at Wangaroa and we ourselves were sitting in considerable expectation. But through all the Lord hath brought us. Not a hair of our heads has yet been suffered to fall. Our influence has advanced with the natives as we have increased our acquaintance. The schools have augmented and improved greatly and we ourselves have made considerable progress in the language. All the members of the mission have been preserved in health, and each family has received an addition of one infant. The arm of the Lord has been very visible and we daily have had evidence of his care concerning us. The feelings of all have been alive to the magnitude of the work before us on whom alone we must depend.

As we have not been able for many months to purchase a single spar from the natives, all the brethren from the settlement excepting Mr. Davis and myself went up the river with about 30 natives to cut down some timber for laths for the Chapel

Friday, 4. The party returned from the Kawakawa about noon very much fatigued bringing with them a considerable quantity of the kauri which was deemed fit for the purpose.

Saturday, 5. In the afternoon the news arrived that 'Hongi was dead which put our thoughts immediately in motion, but as no message arrived from the Kerikeri which was to be the case as soon as the brethren there should receive a creditable report we were inclined to disbelieve it though it was confidently declared.

The Beehive, the Williams Family's First House at Paihia From a sketch by Henry Williams soon after its completion in September 1823.

“Passing through a Swamp in New Zealand” From a sketch found among Henry Williams's papers. The artist is unknown.

The First Church at Paihia, Built between 1826 and 1828 From a watercolour sketch by Dr. J. Kinder.

Sunday, 6. Service as usual. Before we had concluded some strange natives came to the door, and appeared to be troublesome. Some of us concluded that a plundering party was at hand in consequence of 'Hongi's death. But we soon learned that it was a person come for the purpose of claiming one of the girls in the settlement for his wife. The girl did not wish to go with him but she was obliged by the law of the land. Went over to Kororareka and held service in Capn. Duke's house. Afterwards to the 'Haumi Tohitapu affected much concern at the report of 'Hongi's death and said that in the morning he should go to Wangaroa, he should have gone then but as it was the sabbath he would not move.

Monday, 7. At daylight, Tohitapu came with two canoes and wanted some tea sugar flour and medicine for 'Hongi for perhaps he was not quite dead. He repeated his application at each house. After breakfast my brother and myself left the settlement for the Kerikeri to attend the Committee. When we arrived we learnt that 'Hongi was not dead but had fainted away from great weakness Commenced our business in the afternoon. In the evening held the prayer meeting as usual.

Tuesday, 8. All day engaged on the Committee business.

Wednesday, 9. Could not conclude the business as several points of importance were under consideration.

It was this day resolved: That a general examination should take place of all the natives in the settlement at Paihia towards the close of the year, that it should embrace every branch of knowledge. It will require this space of time to bring all things into order and to present something worthy of notice. My expectations are very great. It will be a general spur to both missionaries and natives.

Thursday, 10. Retd. to Paihia. All well.

Sunday, 13. Mrs. W. called up in the middle of the night to attend Mrs. Davis who had been unwell all the evening. Mrs. W. was saluted with the cries of an infant as soon as she entered the house. Our service did not commence till 9 o'clock and as Mrs W. was much fatigued I was prevented from seeing Capn. Duke. In the afternoon went to the 'Haumi.

Wednesday, 16. As we had been in considerable distress for food for the natives in the school we sent off 10 boys and two men to purchase some potatoes and corn if possible though but little hopes. We were obliged to exercise every thought and contrivance to keep the boys together.

Saturday, 19. About noon the boys who had been in quest of provision returned with some, though part of their trade had been taken from them. At 4 p.m. a sail appeared standing in with a fine breeze from the Northd. We soon discovered that she was a schooner, and in the course of an hour had the great pleasure of knowing that it was the Herald from Port Jackson. On going on board we were introduced to Mr. Yate

The Rev. William Yate went to New South Wales in 1827, where he became a popular preacher. In January 1828 he came to the Bay of Islands, and began to study the Maori language. In 1830 he went to Sydney to publish the second portion of the Bible in Maori, and on his return brought a small printing press. In 1831 he was sent in the Active to search for the lost Haweis. In 1833 he again went to Sydney to publish three books for the mission. After a visit to England he was dismissed from the mission and returned to England. His An Account of New Zealand was published in 1835.

but were sorry to learn that there was no Mrs. Yate. Our letters as usual were of a most pleasing strain, and we were much cheered by all we saw and heard.

Sunday, 20. Service as usual when Mr. Yate addressed us in a most pleasing manner from I Jno 4.16 after which I went to Kororareka where were about 15 europeans present at Capn. Dukes. In the afternoon I went to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu was very gracious. In the evening I addressed our natives at the evening service.

Monday, 21. The boat arrived in good time from Rangihoe and the Kerikeri. After tea held a committee the first under the new regulation in which Mr. C. Davis occupies the seat of Mr. R. Davis. The public letters from England and Port Jackson were read. The destination of Mr. Yate was fixed for Kerikeri where I doubt not he will be extensively useful. A considerable portion of the stores landed.

Tuesday, 22. Landing stores. Held another Committee; when the natives of each settlement were brought under a regular and general scale of ration. Our own Natives are all served by one person each taking the office of cater for the week.

Thursday, 24. After school Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Kowakowa to visit the Natives. Tekoki appeared glad to see us and all the Natives. They are in a very dark state. They enquired when the sabbath was to see if their calculation was right. It was so at which they were much pleased. They said they understood when the sabbath arrived but they could not comprehend the nature of our religion. As we were coming away we bought 20 large baskets of potatoes which was highly important. The old man and his wife came down with us to the settlement to see the alterations and the advancement which we had made.

Friday, 25. In the evening there was a considerable disturbance between the girls and boys and one of our girls ran out and it was not until a general chase that we discovered the fugitive. I gave notice to the boys that we should hold a court of inquiry with them on the morrow.

Saturday, 26. Obliged to take down the top of my oven and build it up again, which occupied the whole day. The weather extremely hot. About noon I called the boys who had been the cause of the disturbance last evening. I told the youngest that I should flog him when he immediately fetched me a slight stick for the purpose and delivered it into my hand. I therefore felt myself required to favour him with a specimen of english chastisement. Several of the boys were looking on. He took it as tho' he felt he deserved it his blanket had been taken in the morning. The second boy was much older. I sent one of my leading natives to order him to deliver up his greatcoat and blanket. He sent the greatcoat but said he should keep the blanket but considering that my orders must be obeyed I went myself and remonstrated with him upon the impropriety of his conduct that he must give up the blanket and in future he would know better how to behave. The lad was obstinate for some time but at length gave up the blanket at which I felt that I had obtained an important victory and after a short admonition returned it to him. A third boy had his blanket taken away for a season. I consider my boys have learnt an important lesson this day, and feel thankful at the result. They require much thought to keep them in any kind of order.

Sunday, 27. After service went to Kororareka where I met but few Europeans. I spoke to them as seriously as possible. I then sat down amidst a number of natives with whom I felt more at home. Here was Tarea Warehumu

Whareumu was a chief of the Urikaraka, Pomare's tribe, and lived at Kawakawa. He was killed at Waima, Hokianga, in March 1828, where he had gone to investigate the death of Pomare's son.

Motohi and several others men who seldom hear anything from the word of God as they will universally avoid giving any attention. I found them however well disposed and was enabled to speak to them with little interruption. At length, Motohi (who has ever been considered by us all as a very bad blood-thirsty savage who once lived near us and has at all times been spoken to by different members of the mission) himself took up the subject, and told them of the origin of evil the confusion of tongues and many other important truths. In reference to the formation of Eve he said that she was made of one of Adams ribs while he was asleep, therefore are the lower ribs shorter than the upper ones and in order to account for there being black people in the world he said that the tempter came to our first parents as a black man therefore are there black people now. I was much astonished at the man's knowledge and manner and at the attention which he commanded. I afterwards went to the 'Haumi but the people were all dull and heavy.

Monday, 28. After dinner we all commenced upon the shingling of the Chapel and made a good beginning.

Wednesday, 30. Much rain yesterday could not work at the Chapel. About 2 o'clock Capn. Gardner came on shore as we were all well engaged on the roof of the Chapel; and hindered us during the remainder of the day. Poor man he thought he was paying us a great compliment but he might have discovered that his absence would have been more agreeable. As no ship has been in for several months the natives have been flocking to his ship with their potatoes tho they will not bring a single basket to us. How greatly are they governed by the Prince of Darkness in all their movements.

Sunday, 3 February. As it blew a strong breeze from the Eastd. I could not go to Kororareka. Went to the 'Haumi after service where I met a considerable number of natives, they paid good attention. While speaking to them of their dreadful situation and the dominion that Satan exercised over them in holding them in his own power that they should not believe, one man from Wangai where we have been in the habit of going occasionally asked whether it was Satan who restrained us from going to them as we once did to instruct them. I felt this word of admonition very keenly and regretted exceedingly the weakness of our force. Two persons ought to be out daily to visit the natives even once a fortnight but as yet it is very little that we can accomplish.

Monday, 4. As soon as possible we took our departure for Rangehoe tho the wind was from the Eastd. and much sea running in, it rained hard before we landed. All were well, and somewhat surprised to see us. The day was passed as usual. Mr. Yate gave an exhortation in the evening. Much rain during the remainder of the day and all night. With great difficulty and circumspection we moved from one house to the other their situation is so bad. Took up my lodging at Mr. Kings.

Tuesday, 5. The question of removing the Settlement to Tepuna was again brought forward when it was determined to do it by the united effort of all the members for one fortnight. The Kerikeri boat arrived about 3 p.m. Met some of the Rangehoe chiefs relative to the purchase of part of Tepuna.

Wednesday, 6. Ret'd early to Paihia with Mr. Yate. Observed a ship standing in which proved to be H.M.S. Pandora. Mr. Yate and myself went on board to wait on the Capn. He was very polite and requested me to obtain for him two bread bags full of the flax seed to take to Ceylon, as the Adml. had particularly requested some. Returned on shore early and resumed our work on the top of the Chapel to shingle it.

Thursday, 7. About eleven Capn. Jervoice and two of his officers came on shore and remained about an hour. We were much pleased at finding that their stay in the bay would in all probability be very short and that they did not invite anyone on board.

Friday, 8. Wind strong from the Eastd. Could not conveniently send letters on board though the Pandora is to sail in the morning according to what was said yesterday.

Saturday, 9. At day light wind blowing directly in. The Pandora weighed and made sail working out. Closed the letters and sent the boat, which after pulling about 10 miles overtook her. She did not shorten sail. The letters however were put on board also some flax seed which had been collected with great difficulty. Want of common politeness was never more displayed. After breakfast we were obliged to enter upon a question of great importance. Two of the natives living with us had each taken a second wife though they knew it was contrary to general orders. It was therefore determined to give them the choice either to send these women off or to withdraw themselves. In the evening we heard that the women were gone.

Every spare moment has this week been employed upon the roof of the Chapel by all of us. Building is no trifling matter here. These secular employments unhinge the mind, especially of those who have not been accustomed to them, and retard the progress of the missionary work. My poor raupo house has been sadly condemned owing to its danger from fire but times must greatly alter to induce me to erect one of any other material. I shall endeavour to possess as little property as possible and if destroyed by fire or otherwise the loss will be but small.

Sunday, 10. This morning Mr. Yate preached and has greatly delighted us all. We feel our hands much strengthened already. It is very encouraging to see such men amongst us. We hope that experience of the past will shew the description of men required for this important station. He will establish the Kerikeri on a firm basis. After service Mr. Puckey and I went to Kororareka where we met about 15 Europeans at Capn. Dukes. The room was so very close that I was obliged to take off my coat before the service commenced. It is dry heavy work to speak to these people they are so very depraved and devoted to the work of the Wicked One. However I hope to be grateful for the attention paid to these things —even as they do. They daily condemn their own proceedings by their behaviour: when we go on board any ship the girls are generally ordered out of sight. The same also when we go on shore on that side of the Bay—they withdraw. After our usual stay with Capn. Duke we spoke a few words to the natives near the house they behaved well. I afterwards went to the 'Haumi but as Tohitapu had had a quarrel with one of his wives and had given her a severe beating he had run off lest he should be reproved by me. Those of the Natives who assembled appeared more than usually lively numbers of children were running about and as our means of supporting the school were increased, I determined to attempt to obtain some little girls. Accordingly I made my inquiries. The children appeared very much pleased, and several were brought: many were too small at present but I nominated three to be brought in the morning. We parted mutually pleased. Our evening service as usual in our kitchen upwards of 80 natives were present several strangers.

Monday, 11. Soon after daylight three girls from the 'Haumi arrived with their relations. They appeared pleased with the idea of coming in. Two of them were very little things. They were immediately led away to have their hair cut and to have a good wash. After breakfast Mr. Fairburn and I went to Wangai accompanied by Mr Yate. We had a very pleasant meeting with the natives. They were somewhat low spirited, as their plantation had been stripped some days before owing to the improper conduct of one man, who in anger had cursed himself which brought the neighbouring tribes upon them. They comforted themselves with idea that in a day or two they should pay the same compliment upon some other party. There were numbers of little children there but I was afraid to say anything about their coming. I brought however one little boy for the school. One of the Chiefs said that he should like to reside with us but this is a question which required considerable consideration. Our numbers are nearly 100 men women and children here, which we shall gradually increase every quarter; but considering their wild habits, they require much care and judgment that they may be kept in their respective stations.

Tuesday, 12. The clouds very heavy every appearance of rain: about noon the rain commenced. In the afternoon a dispute arose between an Englishman from Kororareka and one of our natives respecting a canoe which had been observed adrift by our people and hauled on shore and by the law of land becomes the property of those who find it in that condition. The native asked a hatchet as payment, to which the Englishman replied that he would give him one were it to cut off his head

The head of a chief was very tapu, and any threat involving it was regarded as the gravest insult, which could find satisfaction only in the death of the offender. That the punishment on this occasion was so mild reflects the influence of the missionaries.

. This is a capital offence and opened the door for much mischief. The news soon spread and it was given out that our natives would have a small piece of land stripped which is planted with the kumera: the Englishman may himself also be served out.

Friday, 15. For these two last days we have experienced more rain than I believe we have yet done since our landing. About 10 o'clock three canoes were seen pulling from Kororareka towards Waitangi where was the piece of cultivation belonging to Taiwanga. Our boys were soon in motion. And as we felt it our duty to render every protection consistent with our situation we assembled our party and were soon at the point in dispute. We considered that the canoes did not approve of our numbers as they pulled back again to Kororareka after pulling near the beach. This was an acknowledged victory, at which our boys appeared much delighted.

Saturday, 16. At daylight fine. Tohitapu, with a number of natives, arrived some of whom were parents of the children they were served with a mess of flour. While at school Tohi asked me my opinion as to his going to strip a native who had named his child after 'Hongi. I told him in a few words that the natives were wrong in all their ways. He said he would go but not to strip. He accordingly went but partook only of a small portion. In the afternoon the news was brought that a little girl belonging to the 'Haumi was drowned. Not many days since the parents asked me how soon we would admit her into the school. She was about 3 years old. As soon as the child was dead a slave, an old woman, was ordered to be killed as a companion for her. Our natives in considerable consternation owing to the news of an attack upon the Kawakawa tribes. Many of our boys wanted to go up and see Tekoke but did not as the evening's post was not so alarming. Enjoyed a quiet evening.

Sunday, 17. After service went over to Kororareka, and met about 10 Europeans at Capn. Dukes house. All the natives had removed to the Kawakawa in fear of the Ngapuis. In the afternoon went to the Haumi. Terangi in much distress about his child which was drowned, he is hardened in wickedness from his long intercourse with englishmen of the baser sort he appeared disposed to attend to what I had to say. Tohitapu was sitting nearly alone as he had been angry with the people he said in consequence of the murder of the woman yesterday. It is exceedingly painful to see the dreadful state of these people. The minds of all around are in considerable agitation from fear of other tribes. Every man's hand seems set against his fellow. They are in the gall of bitterness and in the bond of iniquity. Terangi told me he had prayed to Jesus Christ but He would not turn unto him. He would not hear him. Poor fellow, he is insensible to all that is said to him upon spiritual subjects. He is a dreadful object having been ill for many months. He is uncle to Tommy Tuai

Tommy Tuai, the nephew of Te Rangi and a son of Tuhi, whose name was variously spelled as Tui, Tuai, Tooai.

. In the evening we heard that a considerable number of Natives were at Kerikeri on their way down here.

Monday, 18. Several canoes passed in the night, which we hear were the Uritaniwa, allies of Tekoke. In the course of the day numbers of the natives from the Waikari arrived in the settlement prepared for action with their heads dressed their bodies well anointed and nearly every man his gun. The top of the Chapel finished this afternoon.

Tuesday, 19. Tohitapu came to breakfast. He said he had sent a message to Waimate to tell Ngapuis not to come but perhaps they would not attend to him. It appears that the quarrel has continued for many years between this tribe and Ngapuis. There has been much fighting amongst them and many killed on each side. Tohitapu is a Ngapui and consequently opposed to Tekoke though they meet here as friends. It has however been reported lately that some of Tekoke's party have said that they would cut off Tohitapu's head and also that of Tareha a Chief of note (tho nothing can be more untrue) and stick them up in triumph. I feel persuaded that Tohitapu will endeavour to preserve the peace as he has much respect for our approbation.

Wednesday, 20. As we wished to learn the state of the Kawakawa natives Mr. Davis and myself prepared to go up. The first report this morning was that the Ngapuis were at the Kerikeri and might be expected in the course of the day. Before breakfast was concluded a messenger arrived and said that they were planting potatoes at Waimate and never had any intention of coming that the report had been spread by some of the women belonging to the Waikari. At 8 o'clock we departed for the Kawakawa and arrived about 10 o'clock. The natives came running from all quarters to hear the news. The body of the people were at work at the pa whither we immediately went. We were much struck with its rudeness and ill construction. They had erected some logs of timber at considerable labour at the top of a hill which were about 25 feet that is the mean length as some were 20 feet others 30 feet and as irregular in size as possible and about 2 feet apart. I could not but laugh at them, which they were not altogether pleased with. The natives were all here from the various settlements and though they were in great fear they kept their ovens always on the move. A messenger arrived from Waimate while we were with them who declared the present fight to be perfectly correct and that their opponents might be expected in two days. I asked Tekoke what it was in consequence of. He said that it was owing to some improper language of some one of them which they had forgotten, but that most probably it was poka noa that is a report of their own manufacturing. We spoke to all the natives as much to the purpose as possible admonishing them to flee from these lying vanities and turn unto the Lord. They paid every attention. We left them near 4 o'clock. As we came near the Wangai we observed some war canoes and heard a number of voices all in high gabble. And as we thought they might be the Ngapuis we hauled in to reconnoitre, but soon observed Tohitapu. As it was low water we could not approach owing to the flats. He, however came out to us giving us a considerable portion of news, 1st that they had nearly killed a native in a bustle with those of Wangai and secondly that the Ngapuis were assembling at the Kerikeri and might be expected at his place tomorrow to wait for reinforcement previous to the intended attack. Tekoke had enjoined us to pray that we all might be preserved from the Ngapuis. But that should they come he said we had better send our boat with two of us to see how the affair went. It was past sunset before we landed. Many flying reports had been in circulation through the day. In the evening we were glad of an opportunity to retire from the world for a season and hold our weekly prayer meeting.

Thursday, 21. We learnt the first thing this morning that several of the Chiefs of the Ngapuis were at Korareko on the way up the Kawakawa but that there were but few people as they had been withheld by Warerahi, the general peace-maker. About 8 o'clock one canoe put off from thence towards the Kawakawa. As Tekoke had said much to us about our going up in order to preserve the peace Mr. Davis my brother and myself went up in the boat. We soon overtook the canoes in which were the Kerikeri chiefs. They were exceedingly friendly. We kept company with them to the landing place. As Tekoke had had previous intimation that only one canoe would proceed up his people were greatly relieved. The meeting was imposing as all were armed and decorated with military ornaments tho' their bodies naked. After a few speeches from some of the leading men they retired to partake of potatoes and corn. As soon therefore as we had seen all fears over and joy diffused through the camp we withdrew to our boat and after a little refreshment we took our departure thankful to the Lord our master that he had heard our prayers in this particular. About 10 we discovered a circumstance of an unpleasant nature. One of our oldest girls had absented herself after that the others had retired to rest and as we are acquainted with the vicious habits of these people we knew that an investigation of a serious nature must take place. After some little search the girl made her appearance.

Friday, 22. The girl in question appeared considerably ashamed but went about her work as usual. In the afternoon she walked out and sat on the beach not wishing to meet the girls of the settlement at school. It therefore became necessary that an investigation should take place. I accordingly assembled my boys and was immediately informed that four had been acting in an improper manner so much so as to require their dismission which was done forthwith. I felt considerably at their going away, as they were four promising lads. They kept near the house all the evening. Capn. Kent arrived from Tongataboo.

Saturday, 23. The boys were still hovering about till after school but as I did not wish to say anything farther till I had consulted with the brethren here I did not hold out any encouragement. We took their case into consideration as soon as we could conveniently but before we had concluded they had taken the advantage of a canoe and gone up the river. Our determination was that they should again be received but each of them fined two months wages. A whaler arrived from a cruise.

Sunday, 24. After our service I went over to Kororareka. Capn. Dukes house was full of men from the vessel. Though neither of their masters were there. I afterwards went to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu was not there. I assembled a few natives at Terangi's place. This man and his family pay greater attention than formerly. I was however obliged to leave them hastily from their frivolous conversation.

Monday, 25. The first news this morning was, that the men belonging to the Herald who are living on the small island Motu o rangi had been plundered while they were at our evening service last night tho' one person was left in charge. All their blanket and many articles of clothes were taken. Our suspicion fell upon the Europeans at Kororareka. In the evening lost much time in conversation with a native of rank whom I had received into the establishment. He is I hope well disposed but wild and proud. He had been ill-treating his wife and had brought two slave girls within the fence. I remonstrated with him with as much care as possible, but he told me that he would leave the place in the morning and began to exclaim against his wife for having informed me. I was therefore obliged to remain until his anger had subsided and he in a better humour. After my return to the house Poutu one of my earliest boys presented me with a note relative to our native girls from whom I had requested him to select a partner. His note indicated his desire to take one but that he could not understand the young lady's mind upon the subject, especially as we kept so strict a look out. I desired him to inquire in person but he considered that it would be better that I should propose the question. My mind was greatly relieved from that oppression which the conduct of the other had caused.

Tuesday, 26. We learnt early this morning that the robbery at Motu o rangi had been discovered by the natives and that it was accomplished by two slaves who live at the 'Haumi and a native from Taiamai. Two of our men Tekaue

Te Kaue, a Maori attached to the mission at Paihia.

and Pumuka

Pumuka, a chief of the Roroa tribe, who lived at Whangai. He was killed by Captain Robertson of H.M.S. Hazard at the sack of Kororareka in 1845.

went in quest of the thieves. They brought one a slave of Tekaue and some of the things stolen. The second thief had run into the woods he is a slave of Tohitapu. Our natives were very indignant. We assembled them and told them that in our country we always try prisoners by jury and that they must consider the case before them and say what punishment ought to be his portion. The majority said that he would have been shot had it not been in consequence of what we had said upon the subject of taking away life but they proposed that he should be well flogged. Upon this question we felt it necessary to have much consultation and at length determined that he should be flogged, the natives proposing that each should give him one lash. A thieves cat was accordingly made and the prisoner punished in due form. All the natives were present and expressed their satisfaction. About 11 o'clock Tohitapu came in a great bustle and called to me to have him tied up which he repeated several times. He said that he had been so exceedingly ashamed of the conduct of his slave that he had not eaten anything since but had immediately come tho' he was inland at one of his plantations. Poutu again requested me to speak for him to his intended, as her father had come from 'Hokianga and he wished her to return with him; consequently I embraced the earliest opportunity of executing my commission. The young lady expressed her willingness to remain and live with Poutu as his wife. All the boys are much pleased. Both the boy and girl have lived with us a considerable time. The occurrences of several past days have led me much to wonder. Here are we but few in number and yet we dictate to all around and our influence increases daily. About 10 p.m. Poutu signified his wish that his intended should be consigned to him. We consequently sent for Taueke and inquired of her if she were willing that the ceremony should then take place. She certainly excited much laughter as she is by far the most awkward of all the older girls in the settlement. She came rolled up in a blanket no part of her person could be seen but the blanket formed a peak about a foot and a half above her head. Knowing our purpose she commenced by whimpering but after some time said that she was willing and by her permission I called both the bridegroom and the bridegroom's man my earliest native George. I told them what had passed and that it was much more proper that these affairs should be written on paper than to follow their native customs. Having therefore prepared my pen ink and paper in due form I thought it most advisable to commence my question to Taueke. I accordingly asked her if she were willing to become the wife of Poutu, &c., &c. After a considerable interval she squeaked “ae”. I then proposed a similar question to Poutu. He (I presume considering that it was necessary that he should take as much time for reflection as the young lady) kept us in silence for more than 10 minutes. At length George said that he would say for him but as I told him that was not allowed by us Poutu himself spoke. The bridegroom then retired towards the door and I conducted the bride towards the gate and closed the door feeling exceedingly thankful that this girl for whom we have felt much anxiety was now likely to be respectably settled in life.

Wednesday, 27. About noon Mr. Fairburn and I left Paihia for the purpose of visiting Wangaruru which is on the coast to the Southd. of Cape Brett. At 3 p.m. we landed at the settlement of Waikari and commenced our march. Our party consisted of 10 natives several of the natives of the place accompanying us. After ascending the first hill we saw the boy and girl which had been living with us. The boy I had been obliged to dismiss, the girl went of her own accord. I was grieved. I looked at them and passed on. The girl and her father followed after we had proceeded about a mile and remained with us during the whole journey. At 4.30 arrived at the top of Kai manu the highest hill at the head of Waikari from which we had a most extensive and beautiful view of the bay and river and the country round about also of the Sea and of the poor Knights. After resting for a short time we descended towards Wangaruru. At 6 we halted on the bank of a fine stream when all were busy in making preparation for the night some in pitching the tent others in cooking the supper. In about an hour we partook of a comfortable repast, consisting of bacon, cucumber, pickle, bread and tea, with milk. Were much amused at the thoughtfulness of one of the boys who had provided brick in order to clean the knives and forks, and rubbed them up with as much care as though we had been in the house. About 8 we assembled the boys for prayer and retired to rest.

Thursday, 28. Rose at sunrise after a most comfortable night's rest. At 7 moved on. In crossing a brook I caught my foot and fell all my length in the water. At 8.20 arrived at Wangaruru nearly forty natives assembled. We spoke to them for a considerable time and were much gratified by their attention. We could not go down to the heads as the tide was out and as there were not any natives there we did not wait but proceeded to a second place belonging to Te koikoi. It is a settlement of importance for us to visit. After opening our subject and the nature of our visit we commenced our march homewards and arrived at Tu's

This would be Tukarangatia, whose kainga was at the head of the Waikari River.

place at the head of Waikari about 5 o'clock after a laborious walk. We there divided in order to speak to the Natives in the neighbourhood. Tetoree

Titore, a Ngapuhi chief, whose already great prestige was increased by his marriage to Hongi's sister. In 1815 he went to Parramatta, where he spent two years with Marsden, and then went to England with Tuhi in 1817. Two years later he returned to New Zealand with Marsden. He was an intelligent and industrious man, who, although he did not become a committed Christian, supported a chapel and a school in which his son, Marsden, taught.

was surprised to see us at that hour. It was quite dark before we took our departure and reached home about 9 o'clock. All well.

Thursday, 13 March. From various hindrances have been prevented from writing a word during the past fortnight.

Monday, 3. The brethren assembled here at the monthly prayer meeting and departed on Wednesday 5. During their stay occupied in consulting upon Committee business. My brother Messrs. Davis and Puckey accompanied the Kerikeri brethren on their return in order to hunt up the cattle. Messrs. Fairburn C. Davis and myself engaged on the chapel excepting when I was occupied attending to the English boys.

Thursday, 6. News of 'Hongi's death. Did not believe it as little notice was taken of it by the natives.

Friday, 7. News of yesterday repeated. Tohitapu and several natives called on their way to Wangaroa; did not credit the report.

Saturday, 8. All silent.

Sunday, 9. The services of the day as usual. The Mary Ann arrived.

Monday, 10. In the afternoon Tahiwanga who had been to Wangaroa to learn the real state of 'Hongi, returned with the news of his death bringing also a note from my brother requesting that the boat might be sent up for them. As I considered it an important season I concluded that it was better that I should go up to the Kerikeri and learn the real state of affairs. I accordingly departed and arrived about 9 o'clock. All were well and in good spirits. No intelligence since Tahiwanga had passed through. No apprehensions of any disturbance with the Natives. News that Pomare's son

Pomare's son killed at Hokianga, while on a “stripping” party. This was the beginning of a succession of serious incidents in which several Ngapuhi chiefs, including Whareumu, were killed. The intervention of Henry Williams and other missionaries brought peace in a very dangerous situation.

was killed at Hokianga in a stripping party. Five of the opposite party killed as a payment.

Tuesday, 11. Had a pleasant sail to Paihia 23 persons being in the boat: my brother and sister with their children and 5 native girls Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs with their natives Messrs. Davis and Puckey &c., &c.

Wednesday, 12. Went up the Waikari in quest of some clothes which had been taken away by one of the school boys. We have had several instances of this kind of theft lately which requires prompt attention. The boy ran away as soon as he learnt that we were arrived and it was not until I had expressed my displeasure that the clothes were brought to me. The mother of the boy came herself. To her I particularly spoke and told her from whence mischief originated. It is truly painful to see the confusion the wicked one is ever working amongst them. Many circumstances tend to weary our spirits but in the Lord we have hope.

Thursday, 13. In the afternoon Tohitapu and his party returned from Wangaroa. They did not bring any particular news. It appears that no mention has been made respecting us consequently that we need not fear. During this eventful period we have not heard a word as to any unpleasant feeling towards us. We may say indeed that this is the Lord's doing. Had 'Hongi died when first wounded we have little doubt as to the consequences but the expectation of the natives has been prepared for the event for several months. He is now gone and his name is scarcely mentioned.

Friday, 14. The Brig Hawes

Named after the Rev. Thomas Haweis [1734–1820], who was the originator of the South Sea Mission and a co-founder of the London Missionary Society. The Haweis, of 73 tons, was built on Moorea Island, near Tahiti, by the Rev. John Williams, but was found to be too expensive for the missionaries to maintain, and was ultimately bought for use as a trader by Campbell and Co. of Sydney. From the beginning she was an unlucky ship. She was attacked by the Maoris of Whakatane in 1828, and in 1830 disappeared without trace with Mr. and Mrs. Charles Davis on board. [McNab, Historical Records, vol. I, p687ff.]

arrived from Port Jackson with Stores not a single letter on board either from England or the Colony. Sent express to the Kerikeri.

Saturday, 15. Commenced clearing the Brig at which we were occupied till 4 p.m. At 6 p.m. letters arrived from Hokianga by an Englishman with most distressing news that considerable fighting had taken place with the natives there and the Bay of Islanders that Warree Humu was killed with many others and the Ngapuis completely put to the rout. Mr. Hobbs who was with us was immediately dispatched to the Kerikeri on his way to the Hokianga. He had scarcely taken his seat in the boat when a native came in great haste shouting as he ran that Warree Humu was killed and his followers put to flight. Our natives, before this had not heard a word as one of Muriwai's

Muriwai, a chief who lived at Utakura on a branch of the river draining Lake Omapere into the Hokianga. He was the protector of Jacky Marmon, and was one of the chiefs who sold land to Baron de Thierry.

daughters was with Mr. Hobbs fearing she might be killed. All was now consternation both amongst ourselves and natives, we viewing the dreadful consequences which must from the nature of the circumstances ensue.

God moves in a mysterious way His wonders to perform.

Very much has been said to most of the natives concerned upon the evil of these things they acknowledge it but state that they are obliged to go.

Sunday, 16. At day light went out to learn if there were any further news. The boys were all assembled in conversation. The brother of one had been killed and eaten he was a man of note. Many flying reports. It was stated that numbers returned yesterday to the Waimate without a single garment. After our service I went on board the Ann. Between 30 and 40 were at the service. Capn. Duke and others were much troubled about the news. Concluded the day as usual.

Monday, 17. At day light the long boat was sent to the Brig. Four canoes passed belonging to the Waikari. Tetoru one of the head chiefs there has lost 5 sons in this late affair. It is a dreadful event. I know not where it may end. The Wesleyan settlement will probably again be upset. I have determined to go over as soon as I observe any movement amongst our natives. They talk of assembling far and near and returning again. If they be not stayed by the hand of the Lord serious evil will ensue. About noon Tekoke and party arrived from the Kowakowa and some time after Rewa came over from Kororareka. With them we had some very pleasing conversation. They proposed that we should all meet the Hokianga natives that is we with them in order to close up this breach which has been so recently made. They are aware that much evil will befall them if they fight, and yet by their law they are required to avenge the death of Warehumu. They cannot make peace of themselves but should we also go they may be able to accomplish it.

Tuesday, 18. Rangituke went early this morning to hold a council with Tarea RewaTohitapu Temoranga, &c., at Kororarika. Letters were received this morning from Hokianga. All are quiet there as yet. Warerahi was there endeavouring to obtain the body of Warreehumu and also to induce Patuone to join the Ngapuis against the Waimae the tribe amongst whom this mischief originated. N.B. Warerahi the above mentioned chief is sometimes called Warenui being one and the same name signifying large house.

Wednesday, 19. At daylight 23 canoes were observed pulling for Kororareka concluded to be old Kira from Matauri come for the purpose of demolishing everything at Waitangi in consequence of the improper conduct of that tribe at his place where they also killed a slave. About 11 o'clock Mr. Davis and I went to Rangehou to call for Mr. Shepherd who had expressed his wish to accompany us to 'Hokianga. Upon landing, we learnt that Kiras party had been behaving exceedingly ill to Mr. Shepherd which had consequently shaken the nerves of Mrs. Shepherd and as the same party were expected to return that way Mr. S. did not feel at liberty to move. We also learnt that Kira intended to visit Paihia on his way to Kawakawa. At this we were much perplexed as if we did not meet the general assembly all hopes of peace would be at an end. We determined therefore to proceed to the Kerikeri where we knew we should hear further of the state of affairs at Paihia. On landing we were met by Rewa who had just arrived on his way to Hokianga; when it was proposed that we should go together. He had met Kira in the morning and recommended him to return home to join the army which he promised should be tomorrow.

Thursday, 20. Owing to the indisposition of Mrs. Clarke and the apprehension of some troublesome parties passing thro' for 'Hokianga none of the brethren accompanied us. Between 9 and 10 we took our departure with six native boys in company with Rewa his wife and son. At 11.30 we arrived at his residence at Waimate a beautiful spot in the midst of plantations to a considerable extent. We here took some refreshment expecting to proceed on immediately, but we were detained for 6 hours by Rewas talking and fitting a lock on a gun. His family formed a very interesting group. About 3 o'clock our party began to move under the guidance of one of Rewa's daughters a girl about 14 carrying a double barrel fowling piece. Rewa had not yet dined. Near sunset we arrived at a settlement of one of Rewa's friends where he overtook us here six large baskets of kumera were immediately turned out for our part. Rewa who now became desirous to join the main army

Little Omaha (Now Leigh), Henry Williams's Favourite Harbour of Refuge From a sketch by Henry Williams made when he first entered the bay in November 1831.

Paihia in the 1830s This sketch of the settlement, showing the chapel at right centre, was reproduced in W. Williams's book, Christianity Among the New Zealanders, in 1867.

The Launching of the Herald At Paihia, 24 January 1826 Based on a sketch by Mrs Henry Williams.

War Canoes and Mission Boat From a lithograph, based on a sketch by Henry Williams, reproduced in Carleton's Life. proposed that we should move on through a long wood by torch light. Accordingly four were constructed of the koreao a kind of cane which grows in great abundance in every wood, but as an old lady sent us a pig for which we were to give a blanket at some future day Rewa thought it most advisable to cook it and lay it by for the night they therefore immediately fell to work, and we retired to rest.

Friday, 21. Slept but little as Rewa and a number of women were talking and laughing all night. At the first dawn of day we were in motion and before sunrise on the road. We met persons occasionally who gave us intelligence respecting the movements of the army which quickened our movements as Rewa frequently set off on a run and we were obliged to keep company. We travelled generally thro' level country, and overtook two parties well armed with muskets: they had much curiosity to know our reason for going which Rewa explained. About noon we saw the smoke of the encampment and by 2 arrived at it. We recd. a hearty welcome from our friends and pitched our tents close to Tohitapu. We had a good deal of conversation upon the general disposition of our natives; and some who at Paihia had laughed at the idea of making peace, now desired that we should be very bold and determined with the enemy for peace. After a little refreshment the parties turned out for review before Rewa, Ururoa

Ururoa, also known as Rewharewha, was a brother-in-law of Hongi and a warrior of note. He was principal chief of the Tahaawai hapu of Whangaroa. Kiwikiwi surrendered to him the beach and adjoining land at Kororareka as utu for the “Girls' War”.

, &c., &c. They certainly formed a strong force and nearly every man a musket. They had several 'hakas (dances), when the ground trembled beneath their feet. Several speeches were afterwards made when it evidently appeared that the general desire was for peace. The remainder of the day quiet.

Saturday, 22. Numbers of guns were fired during the night, lest the enemy should surprise the camp. At the first dawn of day all in motion eating their food and preparing for their march and in a few minutes a general rush to the path leading towards the Pa. We with many of the chiefs were about the centre and were hurried along thro' a wood of considerable length and partly through a swamp. There was much rain and thunder, the rain made our walk very uncomfortable and the thunder struck the natives with awe they considered it as a sure indication of a battle. We halted by the side of a hill until all were collected together when two or three chiefs gave an address after which we again moved on and at length came into a beautiful valley opposite the Pa. Kumeras had been planted over the whole plain some portion of which had been taken by Ware Umu's people. The people ran about in every direction some to destroy houses some to fetch food others to see the spot where Ware Umu fell. In the course of 3 hours ranges of booths were formed for the accommodation of the different tribes with the utmost order each tribe sitting by itself. In the afternoon Rewa and Tohitapu consulted with us: they considered that it would not be proper for any of them to go into the Pa today but that we had better go by ourselves and ascertain the real feelings of the natives of the opposite party. We accordingly went to the pa in company with two natives who had come from thence and relatives of Rewa. We were received very graciously, and conducted to Patuone and many others. They expressed their desire for peace and regret that any fighting had taken place they appeared glad to see us. Warerahi asked if Pi

Pi, a Ngapuhi warrior chief of the Mahurehure hapu, lived at Waima, Hokianga, where Whareumu was killed. He was converted to Christianity in the early 'thirties, taking the name of Arama Karaka [Adam Clark], and was killed in 1837 during the fighting between Pomare and Titore. His son, Arama Karaka Pi, married the widow of Hone Heke and was a strong Christian.

the chief of the pa should go out with us into the camp. As we had not had any message to that effect we felt it too great a responsibility to take upon ourselves and therefore advised his remaining for the present. Warerahi returned with us to the camp. The poor old man seemed much dejected in mind and fatigued in body. We conducted him to his brother Rewa. As we passed along to our tent the people drew around to inquire the news and were pleased when we told them that all desired peace. Before sunset I paid a visit round to all the Chiefs, and had some very pleasing conversation with them. It was highly gratifying to observe the order which was preserved amongst such a disordered and independent race. It appeared the general wish that peace should take place on the morrow. We were sorry for such an infringement of the Sabbath day, but could see no remedy as by delay much evil feeling might be excited and all our endeavours frustrated. However while in conversation with Warepoaka I intimated that tomorrow was the Ratapu. He said that it was a very proper day to make peace upon. I asked him what he thought upon the propriety of sitting still and making peace on Monday. He and some others sitting by immediately consented and advised my mentioning it to the other chiefs which I did and no one objected but behaved in the most pleasing manner. On my return to the tent I learnt that Messrs. Kemp and Clarke were at hand. It was now quite dark. In about half an hour they arrived. They brought no particular news respecting our families. As we were closing the evening Tohitapu arose and addressed the camp upon the necessity of sitting quiet on the morrow as it was the Ratapu. His speech was animated and he was replied to by Ururoa after which all was still not a gun fired during the night.

Sunday, 23. No bustle in the camp. After breakfast my sheet was hoisted for a flag and Mr. Clarke and I went to the Pa to say that no meeting would take place today as it was the Ratapu but before we had concluded breakfast Tohitapu came to ask if the body of Taramauroa a relative of his who had been killed in the late fight should be exposed to public view and to have the pihe sung over it. This we considered a bad prelude to the making of peace and therefore told him that he had better wait till the body should be removed to his own place. He consented immediately. Mr. Clarke and I were well received in the Pa, tho' some felt disappointment that there was any delay to the concluding of peace. We spoke to several parties on the importance of eternal things and they gave us an attentive hearing. About 11 o'clock we took our departure promising to be with them in the morning. All quiet in the camp. As soon as night had closed in the natives began to dance and after 'hakaring for some time there was a general firing round, many fired ball. Tohitapu who has as little desire for these things as anyone called aloud to twist off the ball before accident happened but notwithstanding all that was said many continued firing ball.

Monday, 24. The eventful day is at length arrived which is to determine the question between these two great powers, the Napui and the Mahurehure. Much rain fell in the night and this morning. Notice was given that Tareha was at hand. While at breakfast Tohitapu and Rewa came to the tent to consult as to proceedings. Tohitapu did not appear to like the idea of going into the Pa tho' he had been deputed by the leading men. He however, at length made up his mind to what might await him. Rewa spoke of his desire to go to Waikato to make peace. One of his daughters is married to a Chief belonging there, he thought we had better go up in the vessel. Breakfast being concluded Tohitapu hurried us off to accompany him to the Pa. He requested that the white flag might be planted between the parties which was done on the side of a broad ditch serving as a division between the two armies. The situation was very favourable for the occasion the ground being perfectly level, about ¾ of a mile from the camp and the same from the Pa. After fixing the flag we passed on to the Pa, Tohi's heart beating as he went. We were received in the usual form by Patuone, &c., &c., they sitting on the ground under a shed and the natives pressing upon us on all sides. After a short conversation, the whole of the Natives moved towards the entrance to the Pa, and we with the eldest son of Patuone advanced to the flag which was our station. Several persons of distinction joined in a short time from the Pa. Rewa then came forward from the camp and crossing the ditch rubbed noses with the party from the Pa and took his station with us. Much noise was heard in the camp, and in a short time the various tribes were obs'd marching in great order with their muskets towards us, winding through some bushes which grew in the road. The sight was very imposing for this part of the world. When about 150 yards off they made a rush accompanied with a horrible yell. There were about 700 men generally armed with muskets. After remaining some time Rewa went forward to the opposite party which was remaining at the bottom of the Pa and saluting the Chiefs brought them all forward to within 40 yards of his own people. Several 'hakas took place on each side and volleys of musketry fired. As it was apprehended that many might fire ball the Chiefs took every possible care to prevent mischief and ordered that the parties should fire to the right and left. When the firing had ceased, Rewa commenced his address in a manly stile, desiring that peace should be established. Then followed Patuone and many others. At length a cry was heard that the Pa was taken by Tekoikoi. This created some little confusion until the old man jumped in as one arisen from the dead, and spoke at considerable length. His voice was so feeble that we could not understand him; he spoke with great earnestness, as was demonstrated from every muscle of his body. — After the speaking commenced many from either side withdrew to their respective parties, and a constant firing of guns was kept up towards the Camp and Pa, which might be understood as indication of joy, but however it was observed that many shots were fired when the Chiefs abruptly ordered the people to disperse. Messrs. Davis and Kemp returned into the camp to order our boys to carry our luggage into the Pa, on our way to the Wesleyan settlement at Mangungu on another branch of the river, while Mr. Clarke and I retired with the Mahurehure into the Pa to look for Mr. Hobbs's boat. On our way many shots passed over our heads, some came very near, and it is a great providence that no one was wounded, for on this precarious foundation humanly speaking depended the fate of the day. When we had entered the Pa the firing ceased and the natives as if released from prison took their canoes and dispersed to their respective places of abode. By the time that Mr. Davis had arrived the boat came in sight, which soon conveyed us from this scene of bustle to the quietness of civil life. It was dusk when we landed at Mangungu, when after a comfortable repast we retired to rest intending to proceed on our journey at 2 o'clock in the morning.

Tuesday, 25. At 2 o'clock rose and by 4 we were in the boat and well under weigh, the morning very foggy, and it was 7 o'clock before we landed at Waihou. We commenced our walk immediately, and by 4 p.m. reached the Kerikeri being much fatigued. After some refreshment we took our boat, and by 9.30 were at Paihia. All were well and under considerable anxiety. I soon learnt that the Rotorua natives, who had come up some few months since as a teretere, were under great fear lest they should be killed by the Napuis, as it is generally current that Pango

Pango, of Ngati-Whakaue, Rotorua, a fighting chief and a tohunga of great reputation. His ability in makutu caused him to be suspected of directing the bullets which killed Hongi and Whareumu. He was one of the leaders of Ngati-Whakaue against the Ngai-te-Rangi at Te Tumu in 1836.

, the Chief of the Party, had makutud (bewitched) 'Hongi and caused his death, that he had caused the ball to hit Wareumu, which proved his death, and that several were now lying ill through his means and that others would soon fall victims to his magical powers. It was therefore desired by them that we should give them a passage up in our vessel.

Wednesday, 26. While at breakfast I was called out to speak to Pango the Rotorua Chief, who appeared in considerable fear, and desired a passage in our Vessel but as she is still aground the coppering not being completed and the tides not answering to haul her off, we proposed that they should go on board the Brig Haweis which will sail in the course of the day very near that part of the coast. He appeared delighted at the hope of escape. We therefore sent to the Captain, requesting to see him on shore. In the course of the morning he came, and offered to take as many as might come. In the eveng. about 30 men and women came from the Kawakawa to embark. Mr. C. Davis accompanied them on board, but the Captain refused to receive more than 17 of them, amongst whom was Pango and family, the remainder are to go by the Herald.

Thursday, 27. Early this morning Tohitapu made his appearance, his speech appeared to be low, he inquired about Pango, whether he was on board the Brig by our request. I told him he was. He said it was not proper, as he was a bad man. He did not eat any food, but passed on to Mr. Davis'. I soon learnt that two of Tohitapu's wives had been on board of one of the Ships during his absence, and that he was much distressed, that he was determined to hang himself, and had sent for his friends to witness his death. In the afternoon hearing that he had been inflicting punishment on some of his neighbours, I went to his place and found him apparently in great sorrow. He said that he had not eaten food since his return neither could he unless he were to kill someone, then his heart would be at ease, but that he had been restrained by us, and he must die. I could not but feel considerably for him. I spoke to him for some time, and left him.

Friday, 28. Tohitapu came before breakfast. I offered him some tea and bread but he declined it. He had a hatchet in his hand, and, holding it up, he told me that sixteen persons had been sent to the Po by that instrument, and that unless he could kill and eat someone he should not have rest. I reasoned with him upon his madness and wickedness, and how greatly Satan desired to have him. After some little time he cast away the deadly instrument, saying he would use it no more. Warerahi arrived about this time, which tended to enlighten his spirits.

Sunday, 30. After our usual service I went on board the Ann. No preparation being made I went on shore to Captain Duke's house, the room was full. I spoke to them from the 23 Psalm. Their attention was good: their course of life depraved. The boys told me that as the boat drew near the Ship from Paihia the girls were hurried out of the Ship to go on shore. Thus do these men condemn themselves.

In the course of this journal I have endeavoured to give the leading features with brevity, it was written at hurried moments. You will be able to perceive some instances of the dreadful superstition of this people. During our late campaign the Chiefs and Natives behaved with the greatest kindness towards us and I hope that under the blessing of the Lord, much good may result. They generally consulted their dreams each morng. when their interpretations were most ridiculous.

Thursday, 3 April. Closed my letters for England and delivered them to Mr. C. Davis. Made preparations for sailing in the Herald. Blowing a gale from the Northd. directly into the Bay.

Friday, 4. Good Friday. Service at 9 o'clock. Tekoke appeared anxious about the Rotorua Natives who were with him waiting to depart with us. From all we heard this morng. determined to sail in the night with the ebb tide if possible. After service I went to see Tohitapu. He was very inquisitive. As to our sailing, he said, it was highly improper to take them in our vessel, they ought to return by canoes. He desired that a messenger might be sent to him when we thought of sailing, that he might see who was going. He returned with me. I gave him some stirabout to keep him in tune. A disturbance had taken place towards Waitangi. Tarea over there under pretence of searching for some canoes taken from him some time since by Hapatahi. In the eveng. held service as is usual on the Sunday. At 10 we called the Natives sleeping within the settlement and those at Motuorangi, the Vessel being quite ready to sail. Before 11 the Natives were all on board in great silence. We immediately weighed and made sail. In four tacks we were clear of the Tapaka and beyond the reach of those who most desired the heads of the poor fellows on board. Fired two guns to apprize all around of our departure.—A pleasant breeze.

Saturday, 5. Fine pleasant weather. About noon passed the poor Knights. The Natives appeared happy at their deliverance. Wind favourable.

Sunday, 6. Cloudy. Assembled before 11 for service. Appearance of rain—drawing near to Mayor Island. At 2 abreast of it. Several canoes came off. Shortened sail to speak with them. They told us that the Natemaru had been to Tauranga, and had taken the Pa of Korarau

Korarau was the chief of the pa which was situated on the cliff between the Mission Centry and Monmouth Redoubt at Tauranga. S. Percy Smith, on p481 of Maori Wars of the Nineteenth Century quotes a statement by Captain Gilbert Mair, which is full of errors. It has been accepted as accurate by so many historians that it is necessary to make some corrections. Mair states that the Herald in this 1828 journey called in at Tauranga on her way to Whakatane and Opotiki and “found Koraurau of Ngai-te-Rangi living with his people in the densely populated pa at Te Papa”, and that “three days after they sailed towards Opotiki, Te Papa was taken by Te Rohu… and Koraurau and his people slain”. The facts are: (1) that on 6 April 1828, when the Herald was near Mayor Island, “Several canoes came off… They told us that the Natemaru… had taken the pa of Koraurau, that he himself was killed with many others…” (2) that the Herald did not call into Tauranga, but sailed on to Whakatane and Opotiki, returning and entering Tauranga on 12 April 1828. On 14 April 1828, writes Henry Williams, “Mr. Mair and I went up to the pa which within this last fortnight has been subdued by Ngati-Maru.” Nor was Captain Mair any more accurate in his later reference to the entry of Ohiwa harbour. “On the Herald reaching Ohiwa, the tide being unfavourable for entering the harbour, my father took the dingy and landed on the beach at One-kawa bluff.” The facts were that, while the Herald was anchored off the Whakatane Heads, and Henry Williams was trading with the local Maoris in their canoes, Mair and Davis went in the dingy and landed on the Ohope beach and then walked to the Ohiwa Harbour, where they found the remains of a cannibal feast. They returned to the Herald and after Henry Williams had visited the pa at Whakatane, the Herald sailed and Davis, Mair and Henry Williams took the boat and entered Ohiwa. [See journal entries 6–14 April 1828]

, that he himself was killed with many others and the remainder of the tribe taken as slaves. This was distressing news. Made sail for flat island

Flat Island, now known by its Maori name of Motiti Island.

hoping to anchor before dark. Night closed in before we could reach it. As it came on to rain we were obliged to haul to the wind, and stood off till towards morning Mother Kary's chickens playing about all day.

Monday, 7. A very pleasant night: much rain. At daylight discovered a very dangerous sunken rock which we had passed near in the night. The sea was breaking fearfully upon it. The Lord is my Shepherd I will not fear. The wind shifted before day light and brought clear weather. Obs'd the Haweis at anchor near flat island, came to anchor near her to learn the news. Mr. Mair on board. After breakfast weighed and made sail in shore. Lowland near the coast, broken country in the interior. In the afternoon endeavoured to land, surf too high. All the passengers left before we returned. By what we could learn no appearance of a cargo. Evening fine, wind off shore.

Tuesday, 8. Canoes came off but not to us as the Brig was trading with powder and muskets. One canoe came alongside, but no one offered a single basket of potatoes. Weighed and made sail to the Eastd. Stood along shore about a mile distant. No appearance of Natives. The country most desolate and broken.—As we came towards Wakatani we obs'd some canoes and natives. One came off and approached with caution. We hove to and she came alongside. Muritakaka the old chief said they were on their way to Maketu hearing that a ship was there, but that they would return with us to his settlement, as he had potatoes and pigs. We made sail with him on board, and about 3 o'clock came to anchor near his settlement. Numbers of canoes pulled off, and we bought 5 pigs. The natives appeared pleased that we were with them and promised that in the morning they would bring off potatoes, &c., &c. We conversed with Muritakaka upon the evil of war and the need for turning to the living God, upon the fall and redemption of man. He listened with attention. The land near our anchorage looked very inviting. Some of us went on shore to stretch our legs.

Wednesday, 9. Strong wind during the night at South, the night fine. At daylight she came off. The prospect of trading poor, but few baskets of potatoes and the natives very imposing. However at noon we had all the canoes cleared, which was about a quarter of a cargo, and a number of pigs. Learnt that there was a river about 8 miles to the Eastd.

Ohiwa Harbour. A wharf was built here in 1957 to relieve coastal boats from entering the difficult harbour of Whakatane. The freshly slain bodies found at One-kawa Bluff were the victims of a Ngati-Awa attack upon the Whakatohea tribe. [Percy Smith, Wars, p482]

Messrs. Davis and Mair landed. They returned about 4 o'clock having seen the river, but did not reach the entrance having been shocked at the sight of several dead bodies, some of which had been cut to pieces and others laying by the remains of fire. The evening fine. White Island belching forth columns of steam and smoke in an awful manner.

Thursday, 10. Fine morning. Canoes came off, but nothing in them except a few old sows which we did not buy. Two hours expended in buying fish hooks, lines and paddles. After breakfast Mr. Hamlin and I went to the Pa

Where the business area of Whakatane is now situated.

, the Chief being very solicitous. After turning the point we passed up a narrow channel between rocks, the sea breaking on those to windward. Ducks were so numerous that we might have shot them with a pistol. The river was very fine when we were on the inside, and very deep in places. As we approached the Pa numbers of Children came running to meet us. We landed and were conducted to the house of one of the head men, and were soon surrounded by the inhabitants of the place. There were about 200 persons present tho' not more than 20 men amongst them. While looking upon them, I felt a desire to be with them; but this is my constant wish when visiting any of these distant settlements. I feel persuaded that nothing will tend to preserve peace amongst this unhappy people than Missionaries living with them and visiting from place to place. We spoke to them for a considerable time. They said that it was all very good what we had told them; but as other Natives would not let them alone, they stood greatly in need of muskets and powder in order to defend themselves. We afterwards took a survey of the place. The Pa was strongly fenced round and subdivided into small allotments for different families; they were as closely packed as they could well be. We ascended the hill which overhangs the Pa, and had a sight of the surrounding country which was perfectly flat for several miles. We could not see the extent of the river, but from the nature of the country it must extend for several miles. We were re-conducted to the settlement and requested to sit down, the Natives forming a circle round us. At length two extraordinary large hogs were conducted before us in great state, they walked with as much majesty as Elephants. Blankets would not purchase them, they required powder, and consequently were left to run a little longer. We returned on board by one o'clock, and as there was no appearance of any more potatoes we weighed and made sail to the Eastd. About 7 anchored off the mouth of the Hiwa, the river reported by the natives as further to the Eastd., as we wished to explore it. About 7 o'clock we brought in to 6 fm. water, a little more than a mile from the shore. Lay quiet all night.

Friday, 11. At sunrise Messrs. Davis, Mair and myself took the boat to examine the river. The sea appeared to break across the entrance, and I for some time despaired of accomplishing our object: that is to say to find an opening where the vessel might enter in the event of a settlement being formed here at some future period. We pulled in however through the breakers till at length we grounded, but were carried over the bar by the rolls. We then entered a fine river extending far and wide and deep water. We landed to take a better view; when we discovered we had taken the wrong channel. As this was the most important point to learn, we pulled out to the opposite side, and carried deep water except at one place, when we had two fathoms. As it was near low water, there would be sufficient depth when the tide was in. This river is an important discovery. On returning on board we weighed and made sail for Potiki

Opotiki.

a settlement further to the eastd. The wind was strong and against us, We worked up, the natives making great fires to invite us. About one o'clock two canoes came alongside, but appeared not disposed to trade. They wanted powder. Were very ill-behaved, being prompted by two natives from the bay of Islands, but after a good scolding they were better behaved and offered flax and some mats for sale which we purchased. They wished us to trade tomorrow. They left us towards sunset and we continued to the eastd. Little wind all the evening from the Northd. Appearance of bad weather—hauled off shore—Midnight fresh breezes.

Saturday, 12. Pigs and poultry so noisy all night could have but little sleep. At day light every probability of a gale—bore up for Tauranga, wishg. to make another effort for a cargo of potatoes and to give us an opportunity to visit the natives tomorrow. Much swell during the afternoon—weather thick, some rain. At 5 p.m. we had the great pleasure of entering Tauranga and after a few tacks we anchored under Maunga nui

Now known as Mount Maunganui. The word, Maunganui, means “big hill”.

. The change from a serious tumbling about to perfect stillness was very refreshing. The harbour appeared quite deserted only one canoe to be seen the natives occupied with the Haweis. Those in the canoe said they had potatoes and were glad to see us as we have never yet traded with those at the heads. In a short time two canoes came from Maungatapu

Maungatapu, a famous and strongly built pa on a peninsula in Tauranga Harbour.

with Nuka

Nuka, principal chief of Maungatapu, “of engaging manners and admirable bearing”.

and Kaiewa. They expressed great regard. We told them that tomorrow would be the Sabbath and that we should not trade.

Sunday, 13. Fine. No canoes off—held service with the crew about 10 o'clock. After dinner Messrs. Hamlin and Mair and I went to the Pa nearest the heads, where was a great assembly of Natives especially Children. We talked with them for a length of time. They said that unless we sat with them they should soon forget. They expressed great fears of Natemaru who were expected daily. Returned on board by 4.30. A canoe had been alongside from the Haweis elated with the possession of a few pounds of powder.— They were very abusive. In the evening rain.

Monday, 14. Weather unsettled—several canoes came alongside with a number of pigs, some few baskets of potatoes, very small. No appearance of trading, all wanting powder—they would not give for the blankets, Axes, &c., more than half what is given in the Bay of Islands—inclined to be very insolent. Wherever we go the constant demand is muskets and powder; we could have filled with potatoes at either place, but for the Haweis Brig which is here intoxicating the natives with their destructive materials. About 3 o'clock they withdrew in a very ill humour. Mr. Mair and I went up to the Pa which within this last fortnight has been subdued by Natemaru—we witnessed every mark of desolation. When last here we anchored abreast of the place, then were there many hundreds of men, women and children living here—now all was silent —their houses and fences burnt—dead dogs and pigs on all sides, and human bones in many places—a dreadful evidence of the real temporal situation of this people. The Natemaru are daily expected to attack a second Pa, at which we were on Sunday, and afterwards they will visit the third. Such is the prejudice of this people that each party will sit at his own place rather than unite their forces to resist the common foe. Surely they are in the gall of bitterness and bond of iniquity, and are daily led the willing captives of Satan, seeking each others destruction.

Tuesday, 15. Fine. Wind, W.S.W. No appearance of a single canoe. After breakfast, it being high water, we weighed and worked out of this difficult place, with a determination not to attempt to trade here for a length of time. Naka, a Chief from the place, on board to visit the Bay of Islands—has a number of mats with him to purchase muskets. As I considered it highly important that the Natives should not feel themselves at liberty to come on board at pleasure and pass to and fro, I felt it needful to demand a payment for his passage and required 2 mats. After some little talking to he brought them: this will give them a greater respect for us and the vessel, than they have as yet possessed—they will receive as many favours as we please to bestow, but will give none. Noon sailg. with a fine breeze from the S.W. passg. rapidly along. At sunset abreast of Nth. head of Mercury Bay—a canoe hove in sight coming round the point, about ¾ of a mile distant. Our natives on board exclaimed there were the Natemaru, with whom they were at war. As they were ever fearful, they immediately enquired for arms to kill them, but as only one canoe was in sight, we hove to for it to come alongside, at the same time providing ourselves with a few implements lest they should board us. Our natives wished us to decoy them on board and make slaves of them. We purchased one mat, and a few fish from them for an axe and a few fish hooks. They were greatly delighted. They asked us to run into the Bay, but this was not proper: —we inquired of them their disposition to make peace with Napui. They replied that Napui were ever killing them. We told them that Rewa's desire was for peace and also many others, that we expected that some of the Chiefs would proceed to their place for that purpose. They appeared pleased. We then made sail.—As soon as the canoe left us Nuka and his companions who had been before concealed, jumped up and began to brandish their weapons about and gave them a challenge.—Eveng. fine, making good way towards Autea, or Barrier Island.

Wednesday, 16. Little wind during the night, and could not lay our course. Autea astern. Wind very unsteady during the day. At sunset Cape Brett in sight from the mast head.—Wt.

Thursday, 17. Little sleep during the night owing to the noise of the pigs. At daylight Cape Brett Wt. by N. 15 miles, wind light, making little way and the current against us. Readg. Josephus and Archdeacon Brown's Letters to Mr. Wilkinson. We have a good opportunity on these voyages for reading, though a season of considerable anxiety. Towards evening drawing in for the land. At 1.30 rounded Cape Brett, the breeze increasing and more favourable hopes of anchoring in 2 hours.

Friday, 18. At 1.30 near Moturoa, taken aback—wind baffling. Mr. Davis and I took the boat and pulled in for Paihia. Landed at 2.30 and had the happiness to find all well. It is with a degree of fear and trembling that I approach my dwelling after an absence— for tho' our Lord has been very gracious and ever watchful, yet nature must fail, and young and old alike be numbered with the dead. The natives have been quiet and well-behaved. Rec'd an affectionate letter from Mr. Marsden, and one from Mr. Hill.

The Rev. Richard Hill of Sydney, a colleague of Marsden, and secretary of the New South Wales “Corresponding Committee” of the C.M.S.

. A severe drought in the Colony—little hope of supply from them at present for schools. At daylight the Herald anchored in her berth. Every appearance of a gale. At 4 p.m. heavy rain. George, a native who had been with me from my landing, had taken a wife during my absence—she was taken some months since by someone else, but afterwards forsaken by her husband. It appears therefore, in accordance with the Native law, that anyone else may take her, undergoing the accustomed ceremony of a visit from a party to dispute the claim.

Sunday, 20. Fine. Service as usual, after which I went to Kororareka. I met but two persons besides Cap. Duke. many are on the beach, but all would avail themselves of their ignorance of my intention to visit them—poor creatures! surely the heathen will rise up in the judgment against them. On my return I went to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu was there and made many inquiries, as to the treatment we had met with on the coast. He said he had been very apprehensive lest mischief should befall us. I told him those were our feelings in reference to his spiritual state, that his enemy was ever seeking his destruction and yet he knew it not. In the evening I addressed the natives in the Settlement at our evening service.

Monday, 21. Heavy rain all day. A gale from Eastd.

Tuesday, 22. Every one occupied in killing the pigs which arrived by the Herald. Tohitapu called and mentioned that a large party was coming the day after tomorrow, on account of George's marriage.

Wednesday, 23. Engaged all day in salting the pigs, &c. It is a singular circumstance that more native food has been purchased this season than we have ever known it the case, though the vessel brought but little—but blankets are the articles required.

Thursday, 24. Everyone very busy in preparing lime for the Chapel, &c., &c. The Haweis arrived from Southd. Not much of a cargo. Also a Bark from London five months out. No news. In the eveng. a number of carts, children's toys, were brought from the Kerikeri with which the little ones were greatly delighted.

Saturday, 26. Rec'd a polite note from Cap. Duke, expressing the desire of the Captains of the Vessels at Kororarika to have Service on board of one of the ships on the morrow.

Sunday, 27. Every appearance of rain—did not go on board— went to the Haumi—Tohitapu not there.

Monday, 28. The day appointed for the quarterly meeting at Kerikeri, as we had been prevented assembling at the proper time owing to the sailing of the Herald to the Southd. earlier than was proposed. Before we left the beach the Capns. of the two vessels in the Bay landed, and made application for a supply of hogs and potatoes as they had been unable to obtain any; one of them was forbid parting with any muskets and powder, as his owner was a Quaker—the other had not any on board. We assured them we had not any with which we could part, having nearly 130 persons at this settlement to feed: they took their departure evidently under an impression that we were unkind to them. Such are the unreasonable ideas of some. After an hour's hindrance, Mr. Davis, my Brother and I left for the Kerikeri, where we arrived about 2 o'clock—all well. We did not commence committee business this day being occupied in viewing the late improvements and considering future plans, conversation, &c., &c. In the evening we assembled at Mr. Hamlin's for our prayer meeting, when I addressed them from Josh. 5. 13, 14, 15.

Tuesday, 29. All day at the committee business.

Wednesday, 30. The question of purchasing plank from the Europeans again brought forward and carried—by this our hands will be considerably relieved, tho' very much will remain to be done. During these last two months we have scarcely attended two days together at the Native language. We have been hindered daily by unforseen circumstances, and have so much important work before us—we cannot see any opening. As we draw natives around us, so do we increase in labour, but it is of such a nature, that with it we also increase our pleasure. However it is requisite that attention be paid as soon as possible to the augmenting of our numbers that our work may be carried on more effectually. The business concluded by 2 o'clock, when we left for Paihia—Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs in the boat. All well at Paihia but some unpleasantness on board the Herald, two of the Englishmen and one native having left off work. I went on board to enquire into their grievance, but could not discover anything. They said they had not any complaint to make. It appeared very evident that the people from one of the ships were endeavouring to take them away, a boat from the Alfred was alongside. After remaining long time with them, the englishmen said they would return to their work, but the native expressed his determination to go on shore.

Thursday, 1 May. The englishmen returned to their work on board the Herald.

Friday, 2. The Herald sailed for Hokianga. Mr. Fairburn on board. Every prospect of obtaining a cargo. A fine wind.

Sunday, 4. After service attended to the native school instead of going to Kororareka, as there was no one to attend to them. In the evening spoke to the natives.

Monday, 5. Application was made by Rap

A Maori youth baptized by the name of John. The story of Rape's conversion to Christianity is told in William Williams's Christianity among the New Zealanders, p116ff.

, a native youth, to take Fanny, one of our native girls, as his wife. I asked him if he had communicated his wishes to the damsel. He said no. I enquired how we were to act, he replied that I had better solicit in his behalf which I promised to do. Cap. Duke came on shore with the Capn. of the Lord Rodney. He told me that the native who had lately left the Herald was now on board the Alfred: there is no doubt but that our men were decoyed by the people of that ship. Commenced a new well nearer the hill.

Tuesday, 6. Communicated Rape's message to Fanny. She did not appear very well pleased. She said that she had not much love for him. In the eveng. Rape came to enquire as to my success—he said it would be better for him to live with me that he might be near her, as she always ran away from him.

Wednesday, 7. The boys at the well all day—every hope of its being well executed.

Thursday, 8. At 10.30 Mr. Hobbs landed from the Kerikeri boat and communicated the painful intelligence that the Herald was on shore to the Northd. of the Heads of Hokianga, but the crew safe, though severely treated by the Natives and much exposed to the weather. That the Enterprise which had been built at Hokianga since the Herald was also lost and none of the crew had been heard of. This was a severe shock to us all and greatly distressed us. We immediately prepared for a march, and by noon my brother and I departed with 13 of our best natives. Mr. Hobbs also returned with the Kerikeri boat. We landed at the Kerikeri at 2.30 and were joined by Mr. Kemp and 10 of his best men. After refreshment we departed at 4 o'clock and by 10.30 were within 2 miles of the woods, where we halted for the night, having the advantage of wood and water. We were a little fatigued as we had many swamps to pass through.

Friday, 9. After as pleasant a night as circumstances would admit of we rose at 4 o'clock, and at the first break of day moved on. My feet much chafed with walking without stockings, owing to the numerous swamps we had to pass—the road through the wood very wet. About the middle of the wood we met Takapau, Mr. Fairburn's boy, who had a note from him. We were happy to perceive that he was able to write. About eleven we arrived at Waihou, where the boat was waiting for us. We proceeded down the river, the boys by land to Mangunga. On our way Nene and Patu-one pulled to us in a canoe: they appeared much hurt that the vessels were wrecked, and had suffered much insult from other natives in consequence. We arrived at the Settlement

Horeke, on the Hokianga River, where Captain Clark was superintendent of a ship-building establishment owned by Raine and Ramsay of Sydney and in which Gordon D. Browne had an interest.

by 4 o'clock and should have continued down the river, but the tide was against us. Capn. Clark came and offered every assistance: it was proposed to go down at daybreak as it would then be high water. We passed a pleasant evening and were greatly refreshed. Mr. Mair and the crew pulled up having been obliged to abandon the Herald owing to the conduct of the Natives.

Saturday, 10. At daybreak we proceeded down the river in three boats. It was 10 o'clock before we reached the Heads. We walked along the coast till we came to our little vessel. No natives were in sight but the beach was covered with feet-marks and evidences of their abominable work on every side. The masts and spars were cut to pieces and the inside quite demolished, and not a vestige of rope to be seen—her deck had been set on fire in three places— the sight was distressing. Her hull did not appear to have suffered much, and yet we could not see any prospect of getting her off— part of the main keel was lying by her and some of her planks. Capn. Clark's carpenters gave it as their opinion that she could not be taken into the river without great expense, and he would not accept of my proposal to attempt to take her to his place.— On our way called on Mr. S. Butler to thank him for his attention to Mr. Fairburn and the people. Many of the sails and blocks were among the natives here, and also much rope—they appeared to exult exceedingly in what had been done—I requested Mr. Butler to collect what he could from them. Returned after dark to Mangunga and felt much fatigued.

Sunday, 11. We assembled by 9 o'clock to service. Mr. Hobbs preached. My thoughts much astray and my mind cast down within me. At eleven Mr. Stack and I went to Haureke, the establishment of Capn. Clark: near 30 europeans were assembled. I addressed them from Matthew 25.13. They were attentive, but alas this late dispensation is but a bubble on the water to them, tho all their men are lost—probably killed and eaten. In the evening we held service at six o'clock. My brother read prayers and preached. My mind more at rest.

Monday, 12. Mr. Clarke ret'd before daylight to the Kerikeri. Settled the accounts with the four seamen belonging to the Herald, including the loss in clothes which they had sustained. Wrote letters to Mr. Marsden and also to Mr. Campbell.

Of Campbell & Co., Sydney, the bankers of the C.M.S.

After breakfast Patuone and Nene with all their people came to consult as to what measures should be taken with the people who had stripped the Herald and so severely ill-treated the crew. We told them that as missionaries we could not tell them to go, that we came only to declare the name of the Lord, that we were grieved at the conduct which we had witnessed, but must leave the result with our God. They said that we were a strange tribe. But it was concluded better that Mr. Hobbs and Cap. Clark should accompany the party tomorrow and remonstrate with them upon their very bad conduct, lest war should be declared and much blood shed, besides further injury to other vessels coming into the river. At eleven o'clock we took leave of our friends at Mangungu and pulled up to Waihou on our way home. At 3, after some refreshment, we moved on from Waihou, in all near thirty persons, and by dusk had advanced to the last crossing of the river, where we pitched our tent in a very comfortable place. We assembled the natives to prayer and retired to rest. Mr. Fairburn stood the journey very well.

Tuesday, 13. Passed a good night—appearances of rain—did not move until near 8 o'clock—the wood very wet and slippery. In less than two hours we were through, and walked the remainder of the way very well, as it was open and level—by 2 o'clock we were at the Kerikeri, where we were soon refreshed. At 4 we were again under weigh and at 6.30 landed at Paihia. All well, but much depressed in spirit, tho grateful that no lives were lost. Much native food had been purchased during our absence.

Wednesday, 14. Weary by our late journey; as much by sleeping on the ground as by exercise—unable to settle to anything. In the afternoon heard that the Alfred—Whaler, was bound for Port Jackson and to sail in the morning—prepared letters while I could keep my eyes open.

Thursday, 15. At daylight sent our letters on board. The boys recommenced the digging of the well. Made good progress.

Saturday, 17. Finished the digging of the well, the lower part of which is through hard rock; this will relieve the domestic duty considerably. Upon further consideration upon the loss of our little vessel, I felt that it was needed that someone should proceed to the Colony on account of the Insurance. Mr. Mair went to consult with Cap. Duke on the subject. On his return it was determined that the Mate should go in the Alfred which is yet in the Harbour, accordingly I had immediately to write letters to the Colony, and settle some of their accounts, as the ship would certainly sail in the morning at high water.

Sunday, 18. I did not go over to Kororarika as usual, as the Alfred was under weigh with a very light wind, and the people would generally be engaged with her. At noon went to the Haumi. Tohitapu was sitting with a few others by the bones of his son, which were lying in state. He was in good spirits, but more disposed to speak upon the loss of the vessel than to listen to what was said. In the eveng. our kitchen was as full as it could possibly could hold. Hapatahi amongst the number—he behaved well. It is very pleasing and encouraging to witness the general improvement in the natives around, though those at the Kawakawa act with the utmost indifference, they come and beg for various things, but behave very ill. The natives round about and particularly those of Waimate manifest great interest in the loss of the Herald.

Monday, 19. Much food brought. It is a remarkable circumstance that our supply of native food is beyond what we can at present consume and will probably not keep good. I have myself never witnessed so great a quantity. We have been many months without a single basket—thus does our Lord shew us that our dependence must not rest on human endeavours.

Friday, 23. Mr. Puckey and I left in order to visit the Kawakawa and the neighbouring settlements, where we arrived about 10 o'clock: after some refreshment we proceeded on our different routes. Tekoke and most of the natives of the settlement had left to attend a Hahunga at Taeamai. I passed on for Waiomio about 5 miles distant—in about an hour it began to rain heavily with every appearance of a gale from the N.W. but we continued our walk, as it is but very seldom that we can at present go amongst the natives. As the road was very hilly it became very slippery from the rain and with difficulty we could pass along.—We at length arrived at the Waiomio but few Natives here and those few not disposed to remain out of their houses as the rain was falling heavily. After remaining our usual time with Tioka

Tioka, a brother of Christian Rangi, and one of the people of Whangarei who came for refuge to the Bay of Islands.

, we left and passed first through a swamp of some extent. This was very bad, and it was with difficulty we could ascend the hills. After passing two miles I found that our guides were going a different road to the one we came, and that they were leading us to Tirohanga, where the friend of one of them lived. This was by no means agreeable, considering the wet state in which we were, but as the wind had changed more to the Westd. and every appearance of the rain clearing away, we advanced more cheerfully. After ascending and descending several difficult hills, we came suddenly on the settlement, which was a very beautiful spot on the bank of a small river and surrounded by hills and woods. The natives were glad to see me, as no European had ever been there before. They surrounded me to hear and see. When I told them of the nature of my visit, and that we desired to be frequently amongst them, they detained us here much longer than we desired in order that food might be cooked for the boys. Many children were here whom we may hope to see at the school. Some were proposed by them, but they were too young. Our road from thence to the Kawakawa was very unpleasant and exceedingly wet and dirty. It was quite dusk before we reached the boat, where was a good fire and some refreshment ready, of which we partook with thankfulness. After two hours sitting in the boat perfectly wet, I entered my own dwelling at Paihia and soon relieved from my cold and dirty state.

Saturday, 24. After dinner I left for Rangihoua where I arrived in less than two hours. More than usual civility on the part of Mr. Shepherd: Mr. King hung back—soon perceived that unpleasantness of a serious nature had taken place.

Sunday, 25. Before service took a walk on the beach: the natives mending their nets, buying and selling corn and potatoes. I spoke to them but they ridiculed all I said. Service as usual. Late. After dinner walked out with Mr. Shepherd, saw but few Natives. Passed the evening with Mr. King. No communication between the families.

Monday, 26. Had some conversation with Mr. Shepherd upon the unpleasant state in which he and Mr. King appeared to be living. When it was concluded that the subject should be entered into on Monday next when we are assembled there at the monthly meeting. Returned very early to Paihia, where the contrast of the two settlements present itself to me in a very lively manner.

Tuesday, 27. Mr. Hobbs, who is remaining with me on account of Mrs. H.'s expected confinement, proposed to pull down an old wooden chimney which is in the Beehive, and build it up with brick—accordingly preparations were made and down it came. Collected the rough materials and commenced the foundation, with Mr. H. He is a good thorough workman.

Wednesday, 28. All day at the chimney—learned an important lesson in this necessary work—in the general construction of the chimney, but particularly in the tempering of the mortar.

Thursday, 29. All day at the bricks and mortar—dirty work, and a heavy hindrance in the great work, but what steps are to be taken—chimneys we must have, and for want of assistance we must attend to them ourselves.

Friday, 30. In the midst of our work at the chimney two messengers arrived from the Waimate, from Rewa, to request our attendance at the Ha'hunga which invitation we considered necessary to accept. After dinner Mr. Puckey and I took the boat to the Kerikeri where we spent an agreeable eveng., intending to move on in the morng. tho the grand day was passed.

Saturday, 31. At four we rose, and had a comfortable breakfast, and at six we commenced our walk accompanied by Messrs. Kemp and Hamlin. The day had not yet began to appear, but the moon shone bright. It was my wish if possible to return to Paihia in the evening for which purpose we were obliged to make all haste. By nine o'clock we reached the assembled multitude and were instantly surrounded and conducted to Rewa, Warehari and other chiefs, who expressed their pleasure at our being amongst them. We sat with them a short time to rest ourselves, but as we had no time to lose, we soon walked round to see all our friends. Sheds had been erected for the reception, but nothing of that order we had observed at Waima. The hangis (ovens) were kept constantly supplied. The Chiefs from Hokianga with whom peace had been so recently established, were here, with their families: the unhappy circumsstance which led to the death of Warehumu was discussed by all and concluded in a friendly manner. The bones of their deceased relatives were laying in state under a shed beneath some trees, decorated with feathers and blankets. Several persons were sitting near—some crying, others laughing. Before we left, Rewa brought out some baskets of kumara for our boys to carry home. We were obliged to tell him to stop bringing more as we should be obliged to leave them, however twenty were brought, each one as much as a man could carry. Our five boys took one each, and we departed. By 4 o'clock we were at the Kerikeri—every appearance of a gale from the Eastd. I should have been glad to have remained over Sunday, but as we are to meet at Rangihoua on Monday, I should be necessarily absent four days from home, instead of two, consequently I concluded to proceed on to Paihia. The boys did not arrive till past 6 o'clock with their loads. At 7 we took leave, and by 11 we landed on our own beach. Mod. breeze from the Eastd.

Sunday, 1 June. The gale commenced early this morng. and before daylight the rain fell in torrents—but little prospect of communicating with the other houses. After breakfast the wind veared round to the N.W. and appearance of fine weather. At nine we assembled for service. Mr. Yate who came yesterday from the Kerikeri preached—he is a considerable comfort to the mission— nothing can exceed his kindness and attention on all occasions. No one out among the natives in the afternoon—evening service as usual.

Monday, 2. After many hindrances we at length departed for Rangihoua where we arrived by noon. After dinner we entered upon the important enquiry relative to this settlement, and the members thereof: some points appeared in a serious position and required careful consideration. In the eveng. held the prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 3. After breakfast assembled upon the question of yesterday, when after much cool and deliberate conversation, it was the general opinion that the settlement should be set aside altogether, that Mr. Shepherd should remove to one of the other two stations, Mr. Baker

Charles Baker arrived in New Zealand in June 1828 in the Minerva. He served as a catechist at Kerikeri, and afterwards at Waimate, Paihia, Waikare, Tolaga Bay and Tauranga.

on his arrival should go to the Kerikeri, and that Mr. King, in consideration of his age, his numerous family and severe trials which he has experienced from the foundation of the Mission, should remove to the Colony, under certain provisions to be considered hereafter.—The reasons which brought us to this conclusion, were 1st. The unpleasant and distressing feeling which has existed between Mr. King and Mr. Shepherd, and no expectation of an amendment unless two or three families of mild disposition could be established with them—but of this there is no prospect. 2d. The weak state of the other stations, in comparison of what may be accomplished, and what is deemed proper under existing circumstances, that far more would be effected by concentrating our forces, than by increasing the number of stations, and that before Rangihoua settlement could be put upon a footing with either of the others an entire renovation must be effected. After an early tea we all returned to our respective places.

Wednesday, 4. Concluded the chimney.

Thursday, 5. The ship Elizabeth from Hokianga put in in distress in a very leaky state; she narrowly escaped being lost on the South head of that river, and also in the gale on Sunday, having been nearly driven on shore. The Captain sent a note on shore, wishing for supplies of nails and pump leather.

Friday, 6. I went on board the Elizabeth to learn her state, she was much lumbered on deck. The Captain did not say much as to her state, he made out a list of his wants, which I promised he should be supplied with. Appearance of a gale at East.

Saturday, 7. Strong gale with rain, could not move during the day.

Sunday, 8. Wind from the Westd. with fair weather. After service accompanied Mr. Davis to the Puke—had a pleasant walk, tho' very wet under foot, the road very slippery. A tolerable muster of natives, some attended well. They said that could they understand our books their religious services would be better. We spoke to them on the need of their children attending the school, but none appeared disposed to send them.

Monday, 9. About 10 o'clock a brig was observed standing in, which proved to be from the Colony with Mr. and Mrs. Baker on board—very few English letters—very pleasant ones from Mr. Marsden and Mr. Hill.

Tuesday, 10. Dispatched letters to the Kerikeri, Called a Committee by the request of Mr. Shepherd. Mr. Yate and Mr. Clark arrived by 4 o'clock. After tea commenced upon the question of the Rangihoua settlement, but could not conclude this night—the opinion the same as on the 3rd.

Wednesday, 11. Continued the discussion until 3 p.m.—our opinion the same as yesterday. Messrs. Clark and Shepherd for the continuance of the settlement, Messrs. Yate and Davis, my brother and myself for the breaking of it up—to be referred to the Parent Committee.—Mr. Baker ordered to the Kerikeri.

Thursday, 12. The Elizabeth sailed about 10 o'clock—strong wind from Westd.—the boat could not get on board with the letters.

Friday, 13. Cap. Clark from Hokianga arrived—agreed with him for plank, &c. for the use of the mission to be brought round by him. The crew of his vessel wrecked at Hokianga had been found, some of which were thirty miles apart, there was no mark of violence to be discovered about them.

Saturday, 14. It was my intention to have gone this morng. up to Kerikeri to pass the Sabbath with the brethren there, but as Mrs. Hobbs is hourly expecting her troubles to commence, and the children generally complaining with coughs, &c., I determined to remain at home.

Sunday, 15. Light winds all day. After service Mr. Puckey and I went to Kororarika, about twenty persons assembled at Cap. Duke's. I addressed them from Ps. 111. 10. Their attention was good, but their mode of living wicked in the extreme. I afterwards went to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu and the other natives much as usual, he spoke of our going to Wangai tomorrow to the Ha'hunga, but said that as it was Sunday he should only express his hope that all the settlement would go up, and that he should be with us at break of day.

Monday, 16. At daylight the boat from Rangihoua brought a note to my brother stating that Mr. King had been suddenly taken ill in the middle of the night—my brother left immediately. Tohitapu came according to promise and was very urgent that we should not lose time. Messrs. Puckey, Mair and myself went in the boat with a full boat's crew. Tohi was with us and felt not a little at being in the boat—his canoe joined us as we pulled up the river. On landing we were welcomed by the natives. The bones of poor Taramaoroa were laid in state and the usual ceremony had commenced. I did not observe any strangers. By the bones two old women were seated making a terrible howling, as if addressing the departed spirit. The speeches were very poor—much laughing and dancing. We were conducted to the Ware'ha'hunga and shewn a long range of baskets of food, which were intended for us. We sat with the natives for some time, but had not much of an opportunity to say a word to them upon spiritual subjects.—When we were about to depart I told the chiefs that we would take part of the portion which they brought out for us, and leave the remainder, but this they would not listen to, and at length seeing that I continued unwilling to receive the whole, they ordered them to be carried down to the boat.—The tide was too low for us to proceed down the river. We landed, and were obliged to remain till near 7 p.m.—between eight and nine we arrived at Paihia.

Friday, 20. For many days past the children have suffered much from coughs. It is a rare circumstance here to have illness of any kind—the mercies of our Lord towards us are countless as the sand. Soon after daylight my brother and I went up the Kawakawa to visit the natives there and the neighbourhood. On our landing everyone kept aloof for a considerable time while we were preparing for our day's perambulations, at length old Tikoke descended the hill and came up to us telling us that he had been ashamed because he had not any food to bring to us, owing to the flood which had come suddenly upon them during the summer; but we assured him we did not require their food, but to declare the glad tidings of peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ.—After a little refreshment we separated on our different courses. After a considerable difficulty and much unpleasant walking, wading and jumping, I at length arrived at ——. This was my first visit, tho' I was well acquainted with all whom I saw: the river was very full, and many places had overflown its banks. My conversation with the natives here was very pleasing, they are dreadfully superstitious. I enquired about some of children going to school, but at present they appear disposed to keep them at their place. On my return to Tikoke I assembled all who would come near, but after some time they walked away one by one, until I was left alone. I had need to speak seriously upon their abominable practice of sending their daughters on board the shipping. They justified their conduct and evidently did not approve of what I had to say. This evening was fine and we returned by 9 o'clock.

Saturday, 21. Several natives on the beach from Waikari who had brought Tacopa

[?] tacopa, possibly taiepa, see Glossary; or, perhaps, the cutter, Taeopa.

for fencing. We heard by creditable evidence that Tuaroa, a chief from thence, had stolen five great coats from the store some time since, and that it was his stuff now brought for sale—after a little consultation it was determined to seize all his property now on the beach, which was about the value of the coats, and order him off the settlement. He had one of the coats on his back. Our natives approved of our plan and immediately put it in execution. None of his party offered him any assistance, but laughed at his being discovered.

Sunday, 22. In the afternoon went to see Tohitapu. He said that he had been in great trouble owing to the cows which had been across the river and trampled down his potatoes. Upon enquiring it appeared that they were on a Wahitapu and consequently could not be driven home, and in the night they took the advantage of crossing the river. I endeavoured to point out to him the great reason God had to be angry with us continually—by the anger he then experienced towards the cows and their driver. Tukarangatia, a Waikari chief, passed through the settlement, who spoke of the proceedings of yesterday and said that they were perfectly correct.

Thursday, 26. Owing to the great pressure of business, Mr. Fairburn could not accompany me inland; however as it was deemed highly important that our visit should not be interrupted, my brother and I left early this morning with five of our boys, and landed at Wauwau-roa at 9.45. The day was fine. At 12.30 we arrived at Otao, where were several natives. Afterwards passed on to Morere through a close and swampy wood. At 4.30 we arrived at the Auti. Here we spoke at four places until it was quite dark, when being somewhat fatigued we took supper, assembled our boys for prayer and lay down to rest. Every appearance of a frost. Had a fire in the tent for about an hour.

Friday, 27. Rose at daylight after a good night. Morning very cold. We could not remain longer at this place tho several small settlements we had been unable to visit. The boys took the direct road for Paihia, while we went in a circuitous rout to several places to which I had never been—till we arrived at the last hill at the foot of which the boat was waiting, by sunset. Upon the whole our journey was very pleasant, but more time is required. We could but remain half an hour at each place, and were obliged to pass by several. As we increase our intercourse so does its importance appear to us. We move out as often as circumstances will allow, and yet what does all amount to. We need support for ourselves and for that work in which we are engaged. The Natives encourage us much, and they tell us they cannot believe unless they hear, and they cannot hear unless we go amongst them. Oh that the sad state of this people were more considered, for they are in the gaul of bitterness and in the bond of iniquity.

Saturday, 28. Many calls upon me, which required me this way and that.

Sunday, 29. Service as usual, after which I went on board the Brig at anchor, and assembled the crew at Divine Service. Cap. Duke and several men from the shore—their attention good.— Afternoon went to the 'Haumi—had a pleasant conversation. Report that the pa at Waima had been cut off by Patuone, owing to the bones of Warehumu having been robbed of their flesh. Mischief is in agitation.

Monday, 30. Mr. Hobbs and I commenced the ceiling of the kitchen with plaister, being the first experiment made in this land: at first the mortar was too thin, then too stiff, however after much time and patience we made it stick up, and as we proceeded we accomplished our work more to satisfaction. I had two natives with me under instruction whom I hope will soon be able to take ordinary work, though they are generally exceedingly clumsy.

Tuesday, 1 July. All day employed at the plastering—dirty and fatiguing work—concluded the first coat by sunset.

Wednesday, 2. About 1 a.m. Mrs. W. was called up to attend to Mrs. Hobbs, who was not delivered till about noon—her sufferings were very great. This morng. “Wai” a chief from Wangai came and wanted a hatchet. He told me that last night a messenger arrived from Rewa, to say that all the Napui were to assemble and go against the Popoto, a tribe at Hokianga, on account of the sacrilege committed upon the remains of Warehumu. I fear there is some truth in this report, and apprehend serious consequences. The Wesleyan Missionary station will be in the neighbourhood of the scene of action.

Saturday, 5. This morng. early news of the death of Rangituke

L. G. Kelly in Tainui, pp375–6, gives a full account of the defeat of Rangituke by the Waikato tribes, but gives the date as “April or May 1827”.

, the son of Tikoke, who had left the bay a few weeks since on a murdering expedition to the Southd. We had warned him of the consequences and had endeavoured to keep him at home. They met with a large party of the enemy, but depending upon their guns considered themselves invincible—however they were put to the rout, and the survivours obliged to return over land. Our natives appear to consider this circumstance as a judgement upon the party for acting in opposition to our remonstrance.

Sunday, 6. Went to the 'Haumi. Tohitapu in the country. Natives generally indifferent. In the eveng. spoke to our Natives at our service.

Monday, 7. Made early preparation for our departure for the Kerikeri. The wind fair. By noon arrived—all the brethren well. After dinner commenced the business. In the eveng. held our prayer meeting. My brother spoke from Jno. 15.

Tuesday, 8. Sat close all day at the committee. Resolved that Mr. Fairburn should be proposed to the Parent committee to be received as a member of the Mission. Also that a new vessel be applied for. No apprehension of a disturbance with the Napui.

Wednesday, 9. Occupied all the former part of the day in preparing the stores. At 4 p.m. landed at Paihia—all well.—Our meeting tho full of bustle, was nevertheless very pleasant and profitable.

Thursday, 10. Heavy rain all day.

Saturday, 12. Fine. At noon left for Rangihoua. Mrs. King very unwell. Considerable indisposition during the last month in the two families. Took up my abode at Mr. King's.

Sunday, 13. Service about 10. Spent the evening at Mr. Shepherd's—was happy to observe a much better feeling between the two families.

Monday, 14. Wind from the Eastd. heavy rain and appearance of a gale—could not move. Had some conversation with Messrs. King and Shepherd during the day, relative to the breaking up of the settlement.—There are many pleasing circumstances in the natives living with them, which make it desirable to hold on if possible, but feeling as we do our weakness to effect anything under present arrangements, we do not see how three settlements are likely to be supplied with effective hands. As we increase the number of our natives living with us, so do we our own labour in attending to them, and it might be known upon a slight reflection that such independent character as the New Zealanders are, cannot be kept within due bounds, but with every possible care. Their law is opposite to ours, it is the law of nature, which is sensual and devilish. Most of the natives are persons of rank and yet they are obedient. Our attention therefore towards them needs to be constant, besides which there are the schools, travelling amongst the natives, and the translation of the scriptures. These are no light duties—independent of the secular duties of the settlement and the care of our families. We should gladly see five more families at this settlement, in the course of the next two years.

Tuesday, 15. Morning fine and calm—returned to Paihia by 11 a.m.—had scarcely landed when torrents of rain descended and a thunder storm continued for about a couple of hours.—In the afternoon had an interview with Poutu, who had been behaving very ill to his wife and had told me that he would not have anything further to do with her. After much conversation with him, he said he would return to her, as the state of his mind might be from the wicked one.

Wednesday, 16. Cap. Kent arrived in the evening, had no communication.

Thursday, 17. Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Kawakawa to visit the natives. The old man Tikoke appeared better than I had expected to see him. Many were crying. After remaining a short time at the Pa, I passed on to Tiro'hanga and Mr. Fairburn to the settlement in the neighbourhood. At Tiro'hanga the natives were numerous and attentive. Ret'd to Paihia by 8 p.m.

Friday, 18. Every appearance of a gale from the Eastd.

Saturday, 19. Much rain. My intended visit to the Kerikeri prevented in consequence.

Sunday, 20. Fine morng. Went to the Haumi—but few natives and little to say.

Wednesday, 23. Much rain. Mr Fairburn tried the Tanakaha to split for shingles, and also to stand the heat, which was approved of and hope to be of considerable use.

Thursday, 24. All the morng. engaged in holding our local committee.

Friday, 25. A messenger to announce the safe delivery of Mrs. Clarke of a daughter.

Sunday, 27. Did not go over to Kororarika in consequence of a note from Cap. Duke to state that all the Europeans over there were in a state of intoxication except himself and two others. Went to the Haumi, but obliged to return early in consequence of heavy rain.

Monday, 28. Heavy rain all day—wind from Eastd. All turned out for two hours to roll up logs &c. out of the surf.

Tuesday, 29. Heavy showers during the day. Collecting seaweed for potatoe ground.

Wednesday, 30. Every one of us employed in planting potatoes and preparing the Chapel for plaster. In the eveng. after prayer meeting my brother and I employed in building up a back to the chimney.

Thursday, 31. Employed all day in plastering the inside of the Chapel. Some of the native boys promised fair for good workmen. Heavy rain most of the day. Wind from the N.E.

Friday, 1 August. Showers during the day: concluded the interior of the chapel with the first coat, and by sun set finished one end outside—much satisfied with the general performance.

Saturday, 2. Heavy rain. Under much apprehension for the plaster, but upon examination found that it had not been disturbed.

Sunday, 3. Many heavy showers during the day. Mrs. W. unwell from great fatigue. I did not move out.

Monday, 4. Messrs. Davis and Puckey and I left as early as possible for Rangihoua, where we arrived about noon. My brother prevented from accompanying us owing to the illness of my sister. After dinner commenced the examination of a catechism which had been prepared by the Kerikeri brethren. In the evening held our prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 5. All day engaged upon the catechism—did not finish it.

Wednesday, 6. By two o'clock concluded our work, much to satisfaction. Our meeting on the whole very pleasant. At 3.30 took leave of the brethren for Paihia, where we arrived by 6, and learned that a brig had arrived from Port Jackson.—We had the pleasure of reading letters from England and Mr. Marsden for which we had been looking anxiously for, for some time. Our prospects for the school much blighted owing to the dry season in the Colony— flour £2.10 pr. 100 lb. and quite uncertain when any supplies may be forwarded. We have thrice been driven to our last morsel, but aid has always been afforded.

Friday, 8. Messengers expressed to the Kerikeri to call a committee to determine our most prudent measures at this juncture. In the evening Messrs. Yate and Kemp arrived, tho every appearance of a gale of wind.

Saturday, 9. A violent gale from the N.W. with heavy rain during the night. At daylight a clear sky and no wind. After breakfast Mr. Shepherd arrived, when we commenced our business. It was unanimously resolved to put ourselves upon ¾ ration of flour for the present, and should circumstances require it, we would go upon ½ ration. Public letters from the committee and also from Sydney were read. It was determined that no new natives should be admitted to the schools, tho several had made application.— The question may here be asked how are we to proceed. Without a certain ration of flour for the natives, we cannot keep up the schools. To procure this article out of the proper season, when it is cheap, which is sometimes the case—even too cheap—is injudicious—would it not therefore be more advisable to purchase when cheap a double quantity, which may last two years, or allow us to possess one year's supply in hand of that which is intended for the natives. Flour three years old would be very good for their purpose, were it properly dried. By watching the market, which is very fluctuating, I have no doubt but that some hundreds of pounds might be saved in the year. Our supplies are upon a considerable increase.

Saturday, 16. Very much rain has fallen during the week. Thursday and Friday, all employed in plastering the front and ends of the Chapel. This morning being fine I went to the Kerikeri, to spend the Sabbath with the brethren there. All well.

Sunday, 17. The Service very pleasant as all the natives assembled and part of it is held in Maori

This is one of the rare occasions in which the word “Maori”, as meaning a “person of the native race”, is used by the missionaries. But its use here as meaning “the language of the native race” would seem to indicate that it was not an unusual name, although the missionaries and others normally used “native” or “New Zealander”. [See Williams, Maori Dictionary.]

, which keeps up their attention. In the afternoon, heavy rain which continued the remainder of the day.

Monday, 18. The morning fine. All were soon in motion to take advantage of the weather, and I took my departure for Paihia where I arrived by 2 o'clock. The improvements at the K.K. within these few months have been very considerable—the schools have nearly doubled, the laying out of the ground around the settlement has been with great judgment and taste, and the projected buildings will add much to its appearance. The families appear very comfortable and Mr. Yate sits as their common father—he is the man we have wanted—a few more of like spirit and we should advance. He has made good progress in the language.

On my arrival at home I soon learnt that considerable agitation has manifested itself in the minds of our natives on account of one of our girls, Tea, as two boys had made proposals of marriage to her—the one a native of Tehaite, the other belonging to this place: the girl evidently preferred the Tehaitean lad, a youth about her age, and who had acted as steward on board the Herald and a steady, well behaved boy. I had not been long home before I received a letter from each of the youths stating his desires, and as I did not give an immediate answer the interest was excited amongst all, several notes were sent in favour of Puariri the New Zealander. In the eveng. we held a council with some of the boys, and told them that with us we left the determination upon these questions with the young ladies—that their mode of proceeding was highly improper. This they acknowledged. I spoke to Tea upon the subject, when she evidently had a dislike for one, while she appeared to possess more than ordinary regard for the other.

Tuesday, 19. Before breakfast four letters were brought to me respecting the question of last night. On further consideration we determined to defer the conclusion of the affair for a season.— Much rain during the day.

Wednesday, 20. Fine morning. Every one engaged the whole day plastering the Chapel. In the afternoon—report that the Natemaru were coming to make an attack upon the natives here, and also upon us. From the recent deaths among the Chiefs of the Bay of Islands the enemy have acquired much confidence, and I think it may not be improbable but that they may pay us a visit of a few hours—without previous notice—this thought has occurred several times. It may perhaps not be deviating from the path of duty to put ourselves in a posture of security, which might soon be done by building a fort into which we and our natives might enter in such a time of need.

Saturday, 23. Could not quite conclude the outside of the Chapel owing to the rain. Prepared for service for tomorrow. Mr. Yate arrived by tea to spend the sabbath. Much fatigued by our work. Tohitapu called and had much to say upon the need of building a Pa. This question to be determined on Monday.

Sunday, 24. Assembled at our usual hour in the chapel for service, and with the assistance of the girls we occupied half of the building. Mr. Yate preached. After service we visited our respective stations. At four we assembled for evening service in the chapel, when all the natives attended: we commenced with a native hymn, and after the church service we sang an english hymn, native prayer, after which I then addressed the natives from John 1.29. We closed with a second native hymn and prayer. This is the first service of the kind we have had here: as there was comfortable room, our service was exceedingly gratifying.—The eveng. we employed in reading: the first free from bustle from the circumstance of all having hitherto assembled at our house.

Monday, 25. Tikoke arrived from the Kawakawa with several others, to converse about the Pa. After consultation amongst ourselves, we deemed it prudent to build a Fort and accordingly examined the hill directly at the back of the settlement, which we considered highly advantageous. Before noon we commenced, and by sunset had advanced considerably in the work: our boys in high glee.

Friday, 29. Everyone each day employed at the Pa, the work going on well. Today much rain, which would be of considerable improvement to our bank.

Sunday, 31. Fine. At noon the Java packet anchored under Motuorangi having plank for the Mission from Hokianga.

Monday, 1 September. Every appearance of rain. By 1 p.m. the brethren had assembled from the other stations. At 5 commenced the Service in our new Chapel. Mr. Yate preaching from Ps. 22.1. In the course of the eveng. the subject of the Pa was conversed upon, and as it may probably meet with the disapprobation of some, it may be well to give our reasons for constructing the same. Since the death of Hongi, Warehumu, Te Koikoi and others, the natives of the bay have lost their leaders and have expressed their fear lest those to the Southd. should come up to take them by surprise—they are very numerous and have now many muskets and powder in abundance; the distance they have to come is nothing, and the country is open before them—the great body of Natives being from 10 to 20 miles inland from us. They have particularly mentioned us when speakg. of coming this way tho we have no idea that they will attempt to meet the natives here, but should they come, they would hurry back as fast as possible. Under these circumstances we have felt it our duty to form some place of refuge and should they persist in making an attack, we might be in a position to stand our ground—but we have no idea for a moment that they will ever approach us if they consider that we are in a state of defence. Moreover it must be considered that we live in the midst of war—we tell all to sit still, but they reply that they are obliged to keep in constant motion according to the order of the day, therefore if one settlement should be stripped of all its provision and garments, they, in return pay the same compliment to some neighbour, and thus all are ever in confusion.

Tuesday, 2. All day sitting close at the language, examining the Litany which had been translated.

Wednesday, 3. Continued at the language and concluded as far as the prayer of St Chrysistom, much to satisfaction. The question of the Rangihoua settlement again brought forward—our opinion the same as before—that it would be more politic to remove the Settlement, but from the reluctance of the brethren there to remove, and also of the Natives there that the station should be given up we cancelled former proceedings and agreed to remove it to Tepuna. However, we doubt not by the blessing of the Lord all hitherto said and done upon the subject, will have a happy tendency to establish them on a firmer basis than the settlement has ever yet been.

Thursday, 4. My brother and family went up to the Kerikeri for the benefit of change of air for my sister whose health has been for some months past so very indifferent as to prevent her attending even to domestic concerns.

Friday, 5. Commenced planting potatoes which required the attention of every one. One of the men detected in stealing a considerable portion of the seed, which were recovered and a large basket of his own potatoes taken as a payment.

Saturday, 6. The last of the boards came on shore, and the Brig shifted her birth to Kororarika.

Sunday, 7. Assembled our native boys for the first time this morng. to service, when the Litany was read for the first time in the native language. The boys took considerable interest in it, and some of them had written it out for themselves.—After service I went over to Kororarika by appointment where were about 20 sad, wicked fellows assembled. I spoke to them from 2 Peter 3.9— their attention was good. In the afternoon I spoke to our own natives in the course of the service.

Monday, 8. After breakfast I went over to Rangihoua by appointment to meet Mr. Yate, in order to regulate the school and also to view the ground at Te puna, and determine the situation of the houses, &c. All of which was concluded in a short space, and to mutual satisfaction. Returned to Paihia by 4.30. After the native prayers, which were more than usually late—indeed quite dusk—a party of natives armed with muskets and hatchets made a rush and carried off a girl who had but a few days previous been taken as a wife to one of Mr. Fairburn's men. Chase was immediately given, but as the opposite party had the advantage of time she was soon conveyed far away, but the party was overtaken before long, and there was every appearance of much evil. Our boys were very angry and the others exceedingly insolent.

Saturday, 13. Natives generally occupied in planting potatoes through the week.

Sunday, 14. Service as usual in the morng. Many of the boys had furnished themselves with copies of the Litany, well written. At the 'Haumi in the afternoon. A general disturbance among the natives, had some pleasing conversation with Tohitapu, but had no opportunity to speak to anyone else.

Wednesday, 17. Mr. Davis, Mr. Puckey, and a party of natives went up the river in quest of timber for the purpose of making shingle. Returned in the eveng. havg. felled 6 large trees.

Friday, 19. Much rain these last two days—sat close at the language: examined the former part of the Church Service to the Psalms—much to satisfaction. An American Ship, bound home anchored.

Saturday, 20. Learnt that the Ship had bread, &c., &c., to sell.

Sunday, 21. Wind and rain—did not go over to Kororarika. Read the former part of the morning service in mauri.

Saturday, 27. Variously employed during the week. Mr. Yate arrived to remain till Monday morning.

Sunday, 28. Fine. Mr. Yate preached. The duty of the day as usual.

Tuesday, 30. While preparing to go up the Kawakawa, a Ship anchored at Korararika and fired three guns, but as it was apprehended that it might be Cap. Dixon, we proceeded up the river to Tirohanga, &c. On our return learnt that it was Cap. Brind, who had arrived and had brought letters and stores.

Wednesday, 1 October. Went on board of Cap. Brind. The boats employed the remainder of the day in landing stores—the Kerikeri boat down after sun set.

Thursday, 2. Every appearance of a Gale from the Eastd., continued landing goods.

Friday, 3. Blowing strong from Eastd. with rain—all the goods landed today. Settled the account with Cap. Starbuck

Captain Obed Starbuck, a well known master of American whalers, who completed three voyages of the Pacific in less than four years.

947 $.

Sunday, 5. After service Mr. Puckey and I went on board the Toward Castle to hold Divine Service, but Cap. Brind and the crew were out of the way. This I presume was previously determined on account of our not having given as yet an invitation to him to come on shore, which is indeed an exceeding delicate point, and requires to be done with great care and a clear understanding, owing to his familiar intercourse with the natives. Closed the day as usual.

Monday, 6. As early as possible I proceeded to the Kerikeri committee meeting. Mr. Davis could not accompany owing to a severe cold and cough. Arrived in good time. All well, excepting the children, who like our own had severe coughs and colds. Entered well into the business before tea, after which we held our prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 7. Sat close to business all day. Much wind and rain.

Wednesday, 8. Weather improved. Did not conclude business till noon. Many important points determined, and an exceeding agreeable meeting. At 1 took our departure for Paihia, where we arrived about 5. A strong breeze and considerable sea against us across the bay.

Thursday, 9. The American sailed with our letters.

Friday, 10. At noon Cap. Brind came on shore to spend the afternoon. As we made it a point of duty to invite him, so did we that every attention should be paid him. We had a more agreeable afternoon than expected.

Saturday, 11. The boys out fishing.

Sunday, 12. Strong breezes and rain—could not move to the shipping. Visited Tohitapu—he and many others complaining with the cough, which has been pronounced whooping cough. Our four youngest children severely tried with it. This is the first season that it has been known in the land—last year it was in Port Jackson and many died with it.

Monday, 13. The boats from Rangihoua and the Kerikeri arrived in order to convey the stores to their respective places.

Tuesday, 14. Mr. Shepherd enquired as to our opinion respecting their settlement, mentioned several painful things by which it was very evident that he and Mr. King would not be able to sit together. In the afternoon the subject renewed when it was determined that on Monday next we should all assemble to reconsider this important but sorry question.

Wednesday, 15. Gave a general holiday to shoot ducks.

Thursday, 16. At one this morng. Mrs. W. was called up to attend Mrs. Mair—at 5 returned—labour very dilatory—nothing particular all day. At sunset Mrs. W. was again called.

Friday, 17. Mrs. W. with Mrs. Mair all night. Myself in charge of the children, who were coughing incessantly—but little rest. At 3 p.m. Mrs. W. returned home greatly fatigued, being relieved at her post by her sister—at 8 the birth of a little girl was publicly announced. This has been one of the most tedious affairs since I have been in the land—one which has occupied the attention of every individual, more or less.

Sunday, 19. The coughing very severe during the night—Mrs. W. obliged to remain at home with the two younger children. After service walked to the Haumi, several natives there from the interior. Obliged myself to remain to home from the evening service to watch the children, to allow Mrs. W. to attend.

Monday, 20. Before noon the brethren arrived from the other stations to enquire into the affairs of Rangihoua. At 1 commenced business when Mr. Shepherd presented a letter wherein he expressed a hope that the difference between himself and Mr. King might be concluded without the removal of the settlement. However it appeared necessary to every member to enter fully into the matter, which was accordingly done. At the conclusion it was determined to continue the settlement after an admonition to both members and drawing up a few points of observation for their guidance. Bitter evils have ever existed at this settlement from its foundation, and I fear that unless it be taken under the care of some steady and judicious persons, it must fall. The general opinion is that it should be removed, but there are difficulties.

Before breakfast Cap. Brind sent his Mate on shore to signify his displeasure at a note which I had sent him on Thursday last that the clothes of his surgeon might be returned to him, being in a destitute state, as according to all accounts he had been turned on shore. My note was sent back to me, when I laid it before the brethren to obtain their opinion of the same, the terms of which they considered proper.

Tuesday, 21. From the appearance of the weather I could not go to Waikari at noon Mr. Puckey and I went to Wangai. The natives complained of sickness, very many being ill with the whooping cough. They paid attention but were interrupted at every shaking leaf. On my return home found Mrs. W. under considerable apprehension on account of our youngest boy. We therefore determined to remove into the bee-hive, or cottage, for change of air.

Wednesday, 22. Occupied nearly all day in removing.

Friday, 24. The Children appear much better tho requiring constant attention. The Toward Castle and Sisters sailed out of harbour in silence, leaving us once more free from Shipping. As Cap. Brind has stood for a length of time in some measure connected with us, it will be needful to mention a word relative to him; in justification of that silence which we have felt it absolutely necessary to observe towards him and others who visit this bay. His conduct among the natives is notorious, and indeed the scenes at Kororarika are not fit to be named. Since the arrival of the Toward Castle expresses have been sent in succession to a Native Female now at Hokianga and married to a Native there, but once the companion of Cap. Brind. As the husband was not disposed to give up the wife, two young girls, one the daughter of Rewa, the other the daughter of 'Hongi, were taken on board, and have continued with him ever since. All the natives conversed upon the subject and we could not move without hearing of his deeds. As he knew our opinion upon these matters, he felt that it would be putting him more at ease to discontinue any intercourse with us, which we had been desirous of preserving to allow us opportunities of speaking to them from time to time. He is sinning with a high hand, yea, working iniquity with greediness, and little reflects that his breath is not his own.

Sunday, 26. Service as usual. A large force was obs'd to land at Kororarika, supposed to be Ururoa and Kira from Wangaroa and Matauri. In the afternoon visited Tohitapu who was laying at home apparently much distressed with the whooping cough—poor fellow he does not appear to be nearer the kingdom of heaven than at his birth—his superstitions have great hold upon him. He wished for some hot tea which was sent. At the eveng. service I spoke to the natives. Learnt that Ururoa intended an attack upon Waitangi, Waikari and the Kawakawa—somewhat fearful of mischief.

Monday, 27. At daylight the party at Kororarika in motion. At first we could not tell their intention, but soon observed them pull for Waitangi. Orders were given to close all the passages to our house excepting two, which were capable of being closed at a moment's notice. Tohitapu made his appearance and desired us to be very zealous for that their intentions were bad. After breakfast it was determined to pay the party a visit. We accordingly manned a war canoe belonging to Tohitapu, which was on the beach, and pulled up the Waitangi to the mob. Their opponents had fled. They found one slave which they killed. We conversed with Kira, and were glad to find our friends Warepoaka and Waikato

Waikato, a Ngapuhi chief of Rangihoua, was a brother-in-law to Hongi, and sailed with him and Kendall to England, where he collaborated with Professor Lee in the compilation of the Maori dictionary and grammar. While he never became a Christian, and joined the indigenous Nakahi cult, he was a friend to the missionaries. He was a brother of Wharepoaka.

amongst them, but acting with us. They evidently wished to restrain the old man. After remaining some time we returned to the settlement. While we were amongst the party a circumstance occurred which never ought to be forgotten—so little are we capable of seeing an hour before us. Waikato, who had the gun with him which was presented to him by the King, was shewing it to us. I, observing that both locks were cocked, took hold of it to half cock them, but touching the wrong trigger it discharged. At that instant Tohitapu was delivering an oration close to me, and his head was, at the time the gun went off, about a foot from the muzzle. He turned round and told me I had nearly shot him. I knew that, and felt inexpressibly thankful that it was not so—the piece was nearly perpendicular, but it was seated on the ground and he was standing. Had any accident happened, our lives would probably been forfeited, tho the fault was Waikato's. Thus does the Lord shew us ever to commit our way unto Him, and He will sustain us, for we are unable to help ourselves, or tell what an hour may bring forth. We returned soon after to Paihia, and by 2 p.m. had the great satisfaction to see all the canoes sail out of the bay towards Wangaroa. They discharged their pieces as they passed the settlement, and we fired two great guns in return. This their timely departing is far beyond general expectation but there is one who ruleth to whom we would ever look, and give Him all the praise.

Tuesday, 28. My brother and I went up the Waikari. The natives were all on the watch expecting Ururoa and Kira. They were very happy to see us instead. In a short time Warerahi arrived, who is ever at hand on these occasions. We passed on the settlement up the valley and spoke to a number of natives.

Saturday, 1 November. Wednesday, a fruitless search for timber —the boats out at night. The timber reported to be had, being Kaikatea. Thursday and Friday—getting shells and wood to burn lime. Today half the natives fishing. Tekoke and several of his people came down.

Sunday, 2. Service as usual, several strangers at service, both morng. and eveng.

III April to May 1829

“Stripping” party from Rangihoua — Hahunga of Hongi's bones at Whangaroa.

Monday, 6 April 1829. By 10 a.m. on the way to the Kerikeri, where we arrived at 2 p.m. Commenced business.

Tuesday, 7. All day at business—rec'd note from Hokianga, much disturbance between Mr. Brown

Probably George D. Browne who had an interest in the saw-milling and shipbuilding yards at Horeke on the Hokianga.

and his men, some nearly shot. Rec'd Letters from Mr. Marsden by Cap. Henry.

Wednesday, 8. Ret'd by 4 p.m. to Paihia. Six of the children very unwell owing to the chicken-pox.

Thursday, 9. A most restless night owing to the children. Learnt the particulars of the awful death of Mr. Howe, Government printer at Sydney, a great professor of religion in the Wesleyan connection. Occupied five hours in attention at the English school. Much thought of extending cultivation beyond the settlement also of planting hedges.

Saturday, 11. Considerable disturbance among the boys in the celebrating of a native marriage, which by the by was not celebrated as the bridegroom could not maintain his claim. Kawa one of my brother's men had long been favourably disposed towards Tu, a girl about 13 or 14 years of age, residing at Mr. Fairburn's, to which her brother had some time given his consent providing that a girl living at my brother's should be given to him as his spouse, but this last young lady not agreeing to the proposal withdrew herself from the settlement, and the brother immediately put a negative to the marriage of his sister to Kawa. It was consequently determined by us to leave the matter for them to conclude, it being clearly understood that Tu was well disposed to Kawa, tho in all probability no conversation had existed between them. After dinner the girl was conducted by Kawa's friends to his house, and in a few minutes her brother arrived with his supporters and demanded her. She was accordingly brought out, when both parties seized her some pulling one way some the other beside many kicks and thumps which she had from her own relations. At length they prevailed and she was glad to run to her former residence. Kawa being much mortified went up the river in order to recover his spirits.

Sunday, 12. Service as usual.

Monday, 13. Rec'd a considerable quantity of salt fish from Paroa. Wenako one of Mr. Davis' men left him being jealous of his wife.

Tuesday, 14. In the evening when the natives were assembled at prayers past sunset a child outside called out, a fight, a fight, when all in an instant rose and rushed out, when we learnt that Wenako had brought a party of natives from Rangihoua and had cleared off everything they could lay their hands on from Mr. Davis's native place. When arrived round the point we observed about 20 men loading their muskets. They put themselves in a posture of defiance, but as they did not appear disposed to return our things which they had taken we seized the Chief of the expedition Tatari and held him until they were brought back, after which Taewanga, whose child had nearly been cast into the fire, took from them a musket as payment. They returned to Rangihoua evidently much ashamed and angry with Wenako, who had instigated them to the act. They had waited for the ringing of the bell for native prayers and stole quietly upon us, when no one was present.

Wednesday, 15. Before Kiripiro, a chief from Rangihoua, whose musket had been taken the evening before, came to request his musket should be given up, but he was told that unless the things were returned which had been stolen and satisfaction made to Taewanga the musket would not be given up. About 4 p.m. a canoe came from Rangihoua with upwards of 30 men, nearly all armed with muskets. They demanded the musket, but we repeated to them the declaration of the morning, upon which they all arose and proceeded to break the fence round Taewanga's house, but still evidently checked by what had been said to them. At length in darted two of Tohitapu's wives, which appeared to put a stop to all further proceedings. After a few minutes noise all sat down, but in a short time, observing a fowling piece belonging to Mr. Puckey in the hands of one of our natives, they made an attempt to seize it, but failed, and in the scuffle a chief named Hokai gave me a blow on the calf of my leg, which at the moment I was not aware of. During the remainder of the day I was scarcely able to move. After sunset two of the chiefs came to negotiate for the gun, when it was proposed that a slave girl should be given to Taewanga as a restitution. Tohitapu arrived from Wangai in time to present the musket; which he did in due form; after which the canoe departed. They were to return on the morrow to bring the slave girl.

Thursday, 16. My leg exceedingly painful, scarcely able to put my leg to the ground. In the afternoon the canoe returned from Rangihoua, with a girl according to promise. Gave out some flour for stir-about and concluded peace.

Friday, 17. Good Friday. My leg so painful that I could not move out. During service a large canoe was observed coming toward us. All the natives rushed out of the Chapel and prepared for action, but to the relief of all learnt that it was Ururoa from Wangaroa.

Saturday, 18. Passed over in quietness. Determined to proceed by water to Wangaroa to the Hahunga of 'Hongi's bones in company with Tohitapu, should it be fine.

Sunday, 19. Service as usual. Tohitapu came with whom I had some very pleasing conversation. He had been solicited by the natives of Kororarika to go and reside there as the Chief of the place, which to these people is a lucrative situation on account of the Shipping, but he declined saying that he should not leave us. He was asked if we gave him muskets and powder &c., to which he replied that he had these things and cared not for them; that he would make rafters of them for his house. Tho there remains much of the native superstition about him, still it is universally acknowledged amongst the natives that he is a changed character. A few years since he was dreaded as a priest and as very treacherous. He has for a length of time been our most substantial friend.

Monday, 20. A very fine morning, wind from S.W. Tohitapu at my window before break of day. By 7.30 Mr. Puckey and I with Tohitapu left the beach in my boat and soon overtook the Roroa in their six canoes. About 10 we landed at Waehihi, a small bay, where the natives cooked their food. About noon we were again afloat. The wind not fair. Pulled into the bay towards Tapuetahi, from whence we had a pleasant sail along the coast. We all laid off —— and conversed some time with the people belonging to the place, but did not land, as it was near sunset, but passed on to a small bay, where we landed to sup, after which Tohitapu laid down, and would not be disturbed tho I called him several times, that we might proceed as not half our voyage was yet performed and the wind fair and night very fine. But he would not move, and from all that I could observe it appeared that we were detained for the purpose of his having a dream. We accordingly left him and his party, and proceeded on to Wangaroa. After entering the Heads we landed kindled a fire and laid down to sleep.

Tuesday, 21. Slept comfortably tho my blankets were very wet with the dew. At 9 o'clock Tohitapu with the Taua came round the point. We immediately joined them, and as it was nearly high water proceeded up the river. The tide had ebbed considerably before we arrived at the old Wesleyan Settlement, where 'Hongi's bones were. The Natives of the place here met our party dancing and shrieking in all their savage wildness. Many were rubbed over with pipe clay, presenting a novel spectacle. Kumara and fish were brought in great abundance, and all were soon engaged in eating, being exceedingly hungry. Formed a comfortable tent with the sails of the boat. In the evening assembled the natives to prayer, and passed a very comfortable night.

Wednesday, 22. At break of day Tohitapu with the Roroa were in motion to present themselves before the bones of 'Hongi. They marched up in a body, when an old man walked up slowly to the bones, and addressed the departed spirit, the principal of which was that courage should be imparted to all behind. They then sang the Pihe and afterwards several speeches were made, but nothing of any interest. He complimented Tohitapu in not doing any mischief as the party came along shore, and asked him if he did not intend to have a satisfaction for the death of his relative, others observed that Tohi had become a Missionary and consequently had left off all his former ways. In the course of the day we tried to make some purchase of potatoes, but could not, as they offered a third less than what we purchase in the bay.—The wind being now fair for our return to the bay of Islands, we were anxious to depart, but Tohitapu expressed much fear that we should upset if we did not remain till the morning: his attention was very great in seeing that our boys should not be in any want of food. Several heavy showers during the day.

Thursday, 23. At high water we took our departure, the weather clearing away and every appearance of a fine day. About noon left the Heads of the Harbour, with a fair wind. Obs'd a sail in the offing. At 4 close to the Ninepin Rock. The ship near us. She shewed her colours upon which I went on board. She was from Port Jackson for England coming into the bay to examine a leak in her counter: neither letters nor news. The boat was obliged to cast off owing to the rate of the vessel by which I was left on board until she anchored at Rangihoua. I arrived at home about midnight by the aid of a canoe.

Saturday, 25. Obs'd a large Ship in the offing. Light winds. At 3 p.m. she anchored at Kororarika. Sent a boat to her, by which we were happy to receive letters from England. The ship, the Ann. Sent a messenger to the Kerikeri.

Sunday, 26. Services as usual.

Monday, 27. After breakfast Cap. Christie called respecting the goods on board. He stated that owing to the manner in which they had been stowed previous to his joining the Ship they had been very wet and he was very apprehensive that they were much damaged. Sent the boats off. By sunset all the goods were on shore excepting one boat load.

Tuesday, 28. About 5 o'clock the boys by a great shout announced that Cap. Clark had anchored by Motu o rangi. By break of day received letters from the Colony by the New Zealander.

This ship of 200 tons was built at Hokianga, and created a record by crossing the Tasman to Port Jackson in six days.

Occupied all day in clearing her of flour, &c., &c.

Wednesday, 29. All the goods on shore by 4 p.m.

Thursday, 30. Cap. Christie dined with us.

Friday, 1 May. At break of day Mr. Fairburn and I went up the Kawakawa to visit the natives. As my leg was by no means strong I confined myself to the natives there, while Mr. Fairburn proceeded to Waiomio. They behaved very well but said they could not comprehend our sayings.

Saturday, 2. Variously employed and in writing.

Sunday, 3. Cap. Christie with two boats crews came on shore to attend service. Did not administer the sacrament till the afternoon, on account of the seamen on shore.

Monday, 4. As early as possible left for Rangi houa, where we arrived by 2 p.m. Did not commence business. Mr. Yate gave an address in the evening.

Tuesday, 5. Sat close at the language all day, examining the 1 chap. of St. John.

Wednesday, 6. Concluded 1 ch. of St. John by noon; after which read over the public letter by the Ann and New Zealander. Had some conversation upon the disposing of Mr. Brown

The Rev. A. N. Brown arrived at the Bay of Islands in the Edinburgh Castle on 29 November 1829. [W.W., Journal of that date] He was in charge of the boys' school at Paihia for some years. In 1833 with Henry Williams, and in 1834 with Hamlin, he explored the Thames, Matamata and the Waikato. In 1835 he was established at Tauranga, where he worked for the rest of his life.

when he shall arrive. It was generally considered that he should go to the Kerikeri. Returned to Paihia by 7 o'clock. About 200 baskets of food purchased in our absence.

Saturday, 9. Gt. quantities of kumara brought for sale.

IV March to December 1830

“Girls' War” — Marsden Arrives — Fighting at Thames — School examinations.

Monday, 1 March, 1830. The brethren assembled from the Kerikeri and Rangihoua by eleven o'clock to attend the language meeting. Ururoa and the natives from Wangaroa, Matauri, &c., assembled at Rangihoua to come against Korararika.

This is the beginning of what became known as the “Girls' War”.

Commenced examining the translation of 10 chap. of St. Mathew. In the evening held the monthly prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 2. All day at translation. The Ann, Capt. Christie, and an American whaler arrived.

Wednesday, 3. The brethren returned. Natives passed through settlement to go to Kororarika in its defence.

Thursday, 4. Went up to Wangai. Only two sick men there and a few old women and some children. Many painful feelings at the hardness of the heart of the people. Almost every girl on board the ship. Had some very serious conversation with Pumuka while coming the river, who hung on to the boat in his canoe. He passed on to Kororarika to join the party there.

Friday, 5. Ururoa and his party came over from Rangihoua and pulled in to Paroa bay

“Called at Paroa Bay formerly the residence of Korokoro whom Mr. Marsden has often mentioned, and of Tuai who visited England. It is a pleasant spot, but is now entirely destitute of permanent inhabitants; the settlements were broken up by Hongi's party three years ago. Instead of two populous villages we now find only one family which is at the mercy of any person who may choose to plunder them.… There are sites of several villages in the same neighbourhood now lying desolate. The former inhabitants have either been cut off in wars with the natives at the southward or are dispersed among the neighbouring tribes.” [W.W., Journal, 13 April 1829.]

and landed at the back of Kororarika. Obs'd all Kororarika in motion. About 10 o'clock Messrs. Brown, Davis, my brother and self went over to learn the state of matters, and endeavoured to pacify the angry dispositions of the two parties. We found Warenui, Rewa and Titore sitting there, who usually belonged to the opposite people. They were well disposed. It was proposed that Warenui with us should go over the hill to Ururoa to learn their disposition. We found Tohitapu in the midst of the council making an harangue. As soon as we came in sight they received us in a most gracious manner and prepared the way for us. We took our station for the purpose of speaking to them which they desired us to do and commanded silence that all might hear. We communicated with them as freely as ever we had done and nothing was more satisfactory than the attention they paid. They afterwards turned out their forces that we might see their strength. Tohitapu who is on the opposite side greatly admired them and with feelings of great pride, pointing to the different tribes exclaimed, Those are mine, and those are mine. We returned after two hours to Rewa. There appeared a general understanding that peace would be made in the morng. Kiwikiwi

Kiwikiwi, a chief of the Uritaniwha tribe, living at Kororareka. The action of his wife in attacking and burning the hair of one of the girls living with Captain Brind caused the “Girls' War”. Peace was achieved by the intervention of the missionaries, and by Kiwikiwi ceding Kororareka to Ururoa as utu.

and Toe

Toe, a chief of the Ngati-Tautahi whose kainga was at Otaua. A brother of Taiwhanga, he was baptized by the Rev. William Williams in 1836. [W.W., Journal, 11–12 March 1836.]

expressed a wish that should the canoes come round in the morng. some of us should go over. I did not myself apprehend any mischief.

Saturday, 6. About 9 o'clock much firing at Kororarika and by our glasses could observe persons running in all directions and the canoes pulling off to the shipping filled with people. Mr. Davis and I immediately went over in the boat, and after communicating with Capt. King on board the Royal Sovereign went on shore to endeavour to put a stop to the firing. Landed at the scene of action, but could not see anyone of any rank, as all were concealed by fences and screens. The parties were about 20 yards apart. I made as much noise as I could, but to no immediate effect. Passed on to our old friend Tohitapu, who with the Roroa were resting on their arms at the extremity of the beach. I endeavoured to persuade him to accompany me to the opposite party to draw them off, but he would not move. Tuaiangi

Tuaiangi, of the Roroa tribe.

a young chief was deputed to accompany me. We had not proceeded far before the firing ceased. Rewa came forward and waved to the parties to desist. As we drew to the spot we learnt that many were killed and wounded. I was conducted to Ururoa, who was scarcely able to speak. However numbers surrounded me and all attention was given to what I had to say. They acknowledged the correctness of our argument with them, and that they were urged to this madness by Satan. In a short time the Boats landed from the shipping to witness the distressing scene. Many were dead, others dying, and the wounded no one knew. I here observed with great wonder the conduct of this people. Within a quarter of an hour after the firing ceased, very many of each party were dispersed indiscriminately amongst their opponents, and we found that parents, children and brothers had been fighting against each other.—After some refreshment on board of Cap. Dean's ship we returned on shore, and walked to Ururoa's party. When we had ascended the hill we heard a confused noise of crying, talking, dancing, and an occasional discharge of gun. We had an immediate assembly around us to hear what we had to say: every attention was paid. Before we left them they assembled their force and had a haka. It was generally understood that the party would go round in the morng. to Kororarika. On our return to Paihia we found a number of wounded waiting to be dressed. Noise of voices all night.

Sunday, 7. At first dawn of day was awoke by the firing of musketry at Kororarika, before sunrise it ceased. About seven o'clock observed Ururoa's canoes crossing the bay for Moturoa. Canoes from Kororarika arriving all day with men women and children, bringing with them all their possessions. Our service delayed on account of the wounded. The natives out-side making a great noise, but quiet in their behaviour. At 3 p.m. observed the houses on fire at Kororarika and all the canoes leaving the beach and pulling in various directions. At sunset the Roroa with Tohitapu came to our beach to take up their quarters with us, and shortly after Rewa with his family. All was commotion and various reports as to the intention of the Ngapui. Kept a watch through the night to observe the motion of friends and foes. At 11 p.m. my brother pulled over to Kororarika to learn the state of things. All quiet.

Monday, 8. A few guns fired in the night. Had much conversation with Rewa and Tohitapu; but neither was disposed to interfere in this matter. They said they were angry and tired; they had endeavoured to preserve the peace, but notwithstanding all, they had fought and many were killed. They said it would be well for us to go to the parties and endeavour to keep them apart. After breakfast I went across to Tarea and Moka, &c., &c., and inquired their disposition. They were very unsettled in their opinion and wished to know the tone of the enemy and proposed that we should see them. Pulled on board of Cap. King. While there the Elizabeth Brig from Port Jackson arrived with Mr. Marsden and his daughter. No tidings of the Haweis ! !—But few letters.

Tuesday, 9. Mr. Marsden and I went up to the Pa where the Kawakawa natives were assembled. Every attention was paid to what we had to say and it was unanimously agreed that Kororarika should be given up to the opposite party, as a payment for Hengi

Hengi, a chief of the Ngati-Rehia, who lived at Te Ngaere, Takou. He was killed at Kororareka in the “Girls' War”.

and the numbers slain. The universal word was peace. We afterwards pulled to Kororarika, when they appeared desirous for peace, and it was agreed that Tarea and Titore should accompany us to Ururoa, who was at Moturoa. The wind being favourable we soon arrived, and had a very pleasant conversation. All with the exception of one or two appeared disposed for peace.

Wednesday. 10. At daylight the Urikapana passed through the settlement. They stopt for a short time to hear the news and to see Mr. Marsden. After dinner went over to Kororarika to see Ururoa, who had just come from Moturoa. He said it would be needful to wait till all had assembled before peace was made. He appeared apprehensive that the opposite party was not sincere.

Thursday, 11. After breakfast Rewa, Mr. Marsden and I went up to the Pa. We hoisted the white flag by Rewa's request as a signal that we were come to treat for peace. On our arrival all assembled; and I told them that we were come to receive their instruction as to the message to Ururoa. Whether peace or war, it was now high time, before the assembling of the multitude. They replied that it was very good, but that Ururoa must depute some Chief to meet them in the pa, and afterwards some one from the pa should go to them. This being concluded, we proceeded to Kororarika and met Ururoa and other chiefs. They appeared of one opinion, but they waited the arrival of Mango and Kakaha, the sons of Hengi, the chief of Tako who was killed, as the duty of seeking revenge now devolves upon them for the death of the father. I told Ururoa we were weary of going about, but he and others replied that we must not be weary, but strong and courageous, that should these two men come in the course of the night, they would send a canoe over to us, and peace should be concluded in the morning.—Every appearance of bad weather.

Friday, 12. Blowing strong from the Northd. with occasional rain. Could not move from the settlement.

Saturday, 13. Rain through the night. At breakfast Tohitapu came and spoke about the necessity of making peace; that the distant tribes would arrive and then there would be no restraining them.

Sunday, 14. Tohitapu and Rewa very urgent that communication should be held with Ururoa and others at Kororarika, as several canoes were observed to pull over from Moturoa. I therefore went over by myself and took the opportunity speaking to them upon their present state, and offers of eternal peace held out by Jesus Christ. All were inclined for peace. In the evening service as usual. Rewa and Warerahi came from the Pa apparently under much concern by the delay in making peace.

Monday, 15. Rain during the whole day. Did not move out of the settlement.

Tuesday, 16. After breakfast Mr. Davis and I went to Moturoa to see Kakaha and Mango, the sons of Hengi. When in the middle of the bay we picked up old Kopiri who was in a small skiff of a canoe and would certainly have been upset had we not gone to his assistance. The natives at Moturoa appeared disposed to hear all we had to say, and before we left they said they should pull over in the morning and perhaps might go up the river.

Wednesday, 17. At sunrise observed a great number of canoes and that many were pulling towards the entrance of the river. Launched two boats, each having a white flag, and pulled to the canoes which had landed. The natives had run to an eminence, from which they could have a view of the pa. They danced for some time and fired their pieces. Tetore with the canoes from Kororarika joined us, and all pulled some distance up the river.— It appeared that Kamera

More correctly, Te Kemara, a famous tohunga much trusted by Hongi Heka. His name originally was Tareha [not to be confused with Tareha of Waimate]. As a result of an incident in Hick's Bay in one of Hongi's expeditions, he was named Kaitieke, and later assumed the name Te Kemara, or Campbell. He owned Te Ti at the mouth of the Waitangi River. [Kelly, The Conquest of the Ngare-Raumati: J.P.S., vol. 47, p167.]

was deputed as the principal person to make peace, he and Uhu were in a small, broken canoe which would but just hold them. He told us that as we had brought them for the purpose of making peace, should the pa fire upon them and kill them we should be killed as a satisfaction. We pulled on and with much hesitation the peace makers landed. We were conducted up the hill, and after some time the speeches began. They consisted in disconnected sentences. The general tenor was desire for peace. Some said they should go to Kaipara some to Wangari; after which they all assembled, danced and discharged their guns several times, and appeared highly delighted at their fine appearance. We were now glad to depart. After dinner commenced our committee business.

Thursday, 18. The natives, who went up with us yesterday to make peace, came down this morning with some from the pa on their way to Kororarika to ratify the peace. We accompanied them in two boats, as yesterday, and every mark of native respect was shewn to us. The speeches were much better than yesterday. After all was concluded we returned to Paihia and resumed our committee business.

Friday, 19. A considerable number of natives in the settlement from the Pa and from Kororarika returning to their respective places.

Saturday, 20. Rain nearly the whole day.

Sunday, 21. Heavy rain till the afternoon.

Monday, 22. Fine. Mr. Marsden went to the Kerikeri. Many flying reports respecting the Natives inland.

Wednesday, 24. Ururoa, Tarea, and other chiefs came over from Kororarika—extremely polite. In the afternoon a large party from Taeamai, to see a wounded man who is here. At sunset all the Ngateraheri took up their abode in the settlement on their way to the pa, which they intend to make strong. Much jealousy existing amongst all parties. We alone and our natives appear to sit in the midst of all this commotion without a single care or anxious feeling, tho every tribe is under arms and ready for immediate destruction. The conduct of the natives belonging to the settlement most pleasing, all circumstances considered: each at his occupation through the day, and in the evening the greater part assembling at one house or other for spiritual instruction and prayer: the natives without gaze and wonder.

Thursday, 11 November. Many weeks have now passed since I have been enabled to sit quietly down to note the many gracious dealings of the Lord with us, and those immediately around us. I have again and again desired to state to you all which has gladdened our hearts, but the multiplicity of interruptions and engagements and duties which continually occur to us have hitherto prevented me. In my last communication I mentioned that we were about to enter our new dwelling. We have been in it nearly a month. The change is very great, and Mrs. W. already experiences an important change in her domestic duties. The children also are more orderly and correct in their behaviour, also the Native girls and boys. We trust we shall experience much saving of time in every branch of duty, beside the comfort of having our household ordered according to the good english fashion. The little building which we have so long inhabited, my brother at present occupies, but we purpose to convert it into a girls school as soon as vacant. I shall now endeavour to give you particular accounts of our progress in the good work, of which we have encouragements. This people may be said to have been a stiff necked and rebellious people, but the changes which have been wrought are very manifest. All at present are quiet, tho there has been in some a strong disposition to bloodshed, in consequence of that painful affair at Kororarika, but the Lord hath overruled even that for good, and hath given us much grace in the sight of the people. But you will more particularly rejoice to hear of several of those living in the settlement becoming sincere children of God, and walking as becometh their high calling. Some few have been called to their eternal home, and evidenced a clear and steadfast faith to their dying moments, rejoicing in the prospects before them. Their language was simple and very pleasing.

Two in my own family have died lately in a very happy state. The first, whose name was Rape, had been in the settlement about 5 years, had always shewn a careless disposition towards the school and spiritual instruction, tho evidently attached to us. For several weeks previous to his dissolution he appeared much changed in disposition. He used to join the little assemblies which met in the evening for prayer and religious conversation. When he became too unwell for this he would request some who had been baptised to come to him and converse on the love of Jesus Christ to sinners, and would express his delight in him and his assurance of forgiveness through his atoning merits. He was very patient, and his general conduct so entirely changed, his desire so evident for religious conversation, that his mind might be stayed on the Lamb of God, that he might be preserved in peace while passing through the valley of the shadow of death—as to cause a considerable effect upon many of the other natives. We considered it proper to comply with his desire that he should be baptised previous to his death, as there was no prospect of his recovery. I was not at home when he died but the accounts were very encouraging, and afforded many opportunities of conversation upon these important subjects. The second boy I mentioned was Wakawehi one of the first lads in the school, always desirous of instruction, but by no means seriously disposed a few months since. About eight months ago he left us in a moment of displeasure, and went and resided with his relatives in the interior. After about four months' absence he returned ill. His friends remonstrated with him for returning to us. He replied that we should take care of him, but that no one would if he remained at the native place. He attributed his first impression of spiritual things to the visit of one of my youths, Matiu

Chief of the Uri-o-ngongo hapu, living at Kawakawa, Matiu was a devout Christian, and a valued supporter of the mission. Matiu is the Maori transliteration of “Matthew”.

, a baptised native, to a little boy who lay sick in the same house with him. He then began to see his state by nature, and to feel the need of a Saviour. Tho with great difficulty he moved from place to place, as his complaint was dropsy, he would come and converse about the one thing needful. He would state his ignorance and desire to be taught, he would say that he cared not to die, and towards his end would sometimes shed tears when speaking upon the love of the Saviour towards sinful people. He would remark, “Some may say that these tears are vain boasting, and that I do not feel what I say. I do not want to talk with them, but I desire to see you all. When I converse upon these subjects my mind is filled with light and joy, but when I am left I grow faint.” He gradually grew worse, yet the state of his mind was evidently clear. He had a great desire to be baptised, that he might more particularly be devoted to the Lord. He had long spoken of this, and it gave him much pleasure to speak upon the subject. I was with him when he died. He had inquired for me, and when I entered his little appartment he held out his hand, and appeared pleased. He desired some of those who were present to provide a seat for me, that he might see me better. He was unable to enter into conversation, but observed, “You perhaps think I am going to the Po, but I am not. I am going to Jesus.” Having said this he immediately died. Most of the baptised natives were present. They were greatly struck at his peaceful departure. Tho it was a mournful circumstance to us that this lad should be removed from us, owing to the great mortality which has taken place for many months amongst us, that is generally through the land, and which the natives attribute to us, yet we rejoiced in the belief that another was gone to glory. Oh I trust the reflection upon these things will excite us to greater diligence, and to more earnest prayer that the Lord may be with us to direct us in all our ways. We have nine natives baptised in this settlement and several who are candidates. Though this number is small the time was when that number of natives would not remain with us, but now we are extending and are nearly 200 souls here. The citadel of the great enemy is giving way, and we have great cause to rejoice. When we look back and compare the present day with those we have witnessed, we cannot but thank God and take courage. His promise is sure, we have found it so, and His arm has been very manifest on our behalf, for nothing but the spirit's operation could have wrought upon the minds of this people. In another month our examination is to take place here of which I shall give you a particular account, as also of all other circumstances.

Messrs. Fairburn and Chapman with my brother went up the Waikari for the purpose of purchasing a portion of land, on which is standing a considerable quantity of timber, for the use of the settlement, which was accomplished to satisfaction. In the evening I met the natives in the Chapel, those of them who are more especially desirous of spiritual knowledge.

Friday, 12. A Brig anchored at Kororarika. For several months past have suffered considerably from the Rheumatism, and these last two days have been unable to do anything but write and read, tho my presence is much required amongst my boys.

Saturday, 13. The Brig proved to be the Industry from Port Jackson. No particular news.

Monday, 22. Mr. Mair went to Wangaroa, to make arrangements for projected departure from the service of the mission.

Tuesday, 23. Much better in my health, the rheumatism much removed. Messrs. Brown Fairburn and I went to the Pa, to visit the natives there. Considerable alarm had been expressed by the Natives of a renewal of hostilities concerning the late battle at Kororarika. Great number of them assembled there to meet an attack. The Brig Bee arrived from the Southd. Accounts of much fighting in that quarter. The natives attentive.

Wednesday, 24. The City of Edinburgh Cap. Clendon

Captain James Reddy Clendon, a London merchant and ship-owner, began trade with New Zealand in 1828. Purchasing land from Pomare and others in 1832, he opened a trading station at Okiato in partnership with Samuel Stephenson. During Busby's Residency he reached a position of influence, and was the first U.S.A. consul in the Bay of Islands [1832–41]. Okiato was selected by Felton Mathew in 1840 as a seat for the New Zealand Government, but this was rejected by Governor Gipps.

arrived from the River Thames, with accounts of fighting amongst the natives there. All had behaved respectfully to his ship. By messengers from Hokianga we learnt, that some Chiefs had been killed there but a day or two before, which had thrown them into considerable commotion.

Thursday, 25. Several canoes obs'd early this morning pulling towards Kororarika. Learnt in the course of the day that the friends of Hengi had paid them a visit, to cry at the spot where he had fallen, and to perform some further ceremonies.

Friday, 26. Fine sea-breeze. The Prince of Denmark arrived from the Southd. No news. All in the settlement in considerable consternation, owing to news just heard, which we consider as relating to the sufferers of the Hawies. Capn. Brind when last here brought an account that he had communicated with some natives at Tongatapu, who were just from the Navigators Islands, who stated that a Brig had touched there and landed some people, and that amongst them were two females, one of whom had died, and one had been delivered of a boy. Upon enquiries, it appeared that several persons had heard Cap. Brind speak of the circumstance, and also that he had mentioned the same to Mr. Mair, who communicated the same to Mr. Fairburn, but here it appeared to stop.

Saturday, 27. Wind from Eastd. Hazy, appearance of a gale. The Tranmur Brig arrived from the Southd. Concluded to hold some communication with the owner of the Bee to go to the Navigators Islands, to discover if possible any of our friends, and to offer him £500 should he succeed in rescuing them, and to land them in Tongatapu, but himself to run all risque. Mr. Fairburn went over to him. He appeared very ready to go. Nothing concluded, as the weather is bad.

Sunday, 28. The master of the Bee came on shore: did not appear disposed to go to the Navigators.

Monday, 29. A gale from the eastd, much rain through the day.

Tuesday, 30. Gale continued, heavy rain all day. In the afternoon the master of the Bee came on shore. Could not come to any conclusion with him. The Prince of Denmark sailed.

Wednesday, 1 December. The gale broke. At Noon the Bee and Industry sailed.

Thursday, 2. Mr. Hobbs from Kerikeri and Mr. Shepherd from Rangihoua arrived. All well.

Friday, 3. Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs and family arrived, also Mr. Yate from the Kerikeri. In the afternoon the Active

The schooner Herald had proved so valuable that the C.M.S. bought the Active to take her place. Although built in England she was not a very seaworthy craft.

hove in sight. Went on board. A good passage from Sydney. No English letters.

Friday, 10. Strong breezes during these last few days from the Westd. Closely engaged in preparation for the meeting in repairing the plaster of the Chapel—white-washing—painting, repairing fences, and putting all in order—the natives as much interested as ourselves—that our visitors should be received as respectfully as our circumstances will allow. Cap. Clendon sailed this morning for England. The Prince of Denmark for the Colony. Mr. and Mrs. White arrived from the Kerikeri to attend the meeting.

Saturday, 11. Very fine—wind W. This eveng. everyone unusually tired. The prospect of a quiet Sabbath quite refreshing—closed all work by six o'clock.

Sunday, 12. After morning service we went to the Pa—found all in a sad state of preparation for our purpose owing to a large party of Ngaterairi having landed, in the midst of the relation of the noble deeds they had accomplished to the Southd. just having ret'd from thence. Considering that Satan and his emissaries would flee when pursued, and that we spoke by authority of the Lord of Hosts, we immediately proceeded to call off their attention, and reproved them quietly for this abuse of the sacred Day of God. Maru-po a great savage was delivering his speech at the time. He said but a few words in reply to our observations and sat down. We then divided, and kept the whole party closely engaged in conversation for an hour. Many of the people were from Wangaree, and appeared well pleased to hear us. We could not remain longer with them. Upon the whole we had a gratifying visit, and tho they might renew their conversation, we broke the heart of the meeting, and were enabled to declare the name and promise of the Lord. They made several enquiries as to when our Meeting would take place. We did not give any invitations, lest we should have four or five hundred of our friends to see us independent of the Schools. The attention shewn by our boys and girls to the catechism and to their learning generally is well deserving of mention. For many days we hear them repeating, morning, noon and night—indeed they are most indefatigable, and most of them have today assembled themselves of their own accord in groups for this purpose. It is more striking as we have been obliged from the pressure of work greatly to neglect the school of late.

Monday, 13. Very fine. Sea breeze through the day. Several parties of natives arrived from Kororarika, the Pa and elsewhere, evidently to attend the meeting. They were exceedingly quiet. All the boys in high glee and hard at work. I was much astonished this afternoon at witnessing two persons having a native cry, and several of the girls, relatives of the parties, sitting close repeating the catechism, apparently regardless of what was taking place: nothing can exceed their desire to perfect themselves for the examination. Very hot.

Tuesday, 14. A fine, pleasant morning. No wind. After breakfast went and paid my respects to our friends outside the fences, calculated them at near 500, all sitting as quietly as possible. About 8.30 the boats hove in sight, and came forward in a very pleasing manner. The uniform appearance of the boys gave an imposing effect. Our own boys formed a line of their own accord to receive them, and each saluted the other with three hearty cheers. All was immediate bustle on conducting our visitors to their respective quarters. Several more canoes arrived in the course of the day. At 3 p.m. the European Service. Mr. Yate preached—after which the sacrament was administered. In the evening all the children were assembled together to tea, 49 in number—an important part of our community.

Wednesday, 15. All in motion at break of day preparing for the dinner. Were enabled to commence service at 9 o'clock, and conclude the examination a little after 12. With great difficulty all were admitted into the Chapel, a very imposing sight. The out-door natives appeared highly gratified, and gathered near that they might see all that was going forward. Several parties arrived this morning, and at 2 o'clock when the food was served there were not less than 1000 strangers, besides the schools. And as they were the same people who had fought at Kororarika, every one was armed, yet perfect order was observed. A more gratifying sight had never been witnessed in this land. In the evening the natives of the schools were regaled with tea and gingerbread—retired to rest exceedingly tired.

Thursday, 16. Fine—Distributed the prizes this morning—did not hear a single murmur, or expression of disapprobation—all was concluded by noon. After dinner the respective families left, being much fatigued by the exertion of the last week. Tatai, a baptized native, belonging to Mr. Fairburn, was buried, having died in the night. In the evening went to Tohitapu, had some conversation respecting the disturbance at Hokianga. He proposed to hold communication with Titore in the morning.

Friday, 17. Messrs. White and Hobbs with myself and Tohitapu went to Titore. After much talking it was proposed that Messrs. White and Hobbs should proceed by themselves and learn the true state of affairs. If the Chiefs should be disposed to treat for peace then Titore and others with some of us should go over. Near midnight before we returned.

Saturday, 18. Mr. Hobbs proceeded to Hokianga, leaving Mrs. H. and the two children. Mr. and Mrs. White returned to the KeriKeri.

Sunday, 19. After service went up to the pa—not many natives there. Kawiti

Kawiti, chief of the Ngati-Hine hapu of Ngapuhi, whose kainga was at Waiomio. An able and courageous warrior, he shared in the Ngapuhi war expeditions. At first friendly to the pakeha, he later joined in Hone Heke's rebellion. After peace was made, he went to live at Pakaraka in order to be near Henry Williams. He was baptized in 1853 and died a year later. His son, Maihi Paraone Kawiti, succeeded him as chief.

and Morunga

Morunga, a chief of Kawakawa, not to be confused with Te Morenga of the Taiamai.

paid their usual attention—a daughter of each returned with me to the school. They spoke of the very unsettled state of the Natives.

Monday, 20. Fine—a strong sea breeze. Tohitapu and I went up the river to see the extent of his land, in order to purchase to sufficient distance to prevent Europeans coming too close to settle near the settlement. Did not come to any treaty with him. Had considerable conversation with the Roroa. They are very hard, but behaved well. But very few children amongst them.

Tuesday, 21. Went up the Kerikeri at daylight—called on Titore in the way—his remarks very pleasing—had some considerable conversation with him and those with him.

Wednesday, 22. In the afternoon ret'd from the Kerikeri. Mr. Yate came down with me—arranged for his departure.

V January to December 1831

Peace parleys at Hokianga, Mangakahia, &c. — War party to Tauranga — Karere launched — Trouble with Rotorua Maoris — Journey to Rotorua — More peacemaking.

Thursday, 13 January, 1831.

From this point to the entry of Saturday, 29 January, there is much confusion in the dates given by Henry Williams. His brother's journal gives the dates 6 and 7 January for Henry Williams's “Thursday, 13 January” and “Friday, 14”, but he confirms the date of 29 January for the return of Henry Williams and Fairburn to Paihia from Mangakahia. From internal evidence it is clear that the dates given by W.W. are correct.

We all went up the river to see the boundary of the land proposed by Tohitapu. On our return found Mr. Yate who had taken his leave of the Kerikeri, ready for his departure. Mr Hobbs also from Hokianga, to ask our advice upon certain questions of a public nature.

Friday, 14. Fine weather. At noon a ship hove in sight. About 4 o'clock, two boats came on shore from the Loydes, with three Wesleyan Missionaries and their wives, on their way to Tonga— their appearance most wretched, that of persons in a decline. We were happy in being able to administer to their wants, for they appeared to stand greatly in need of assistance. Not a single letter for anyone in the Mission! ! !

Saturday, 15. In considerable bustle through this inundation.

Sunday, 16. The Chapel full to excess. Mr Shepherd's little boy and two native children were baptised.

Monday, 17. At 6 the Wesleyan Brethren, with Mr. Brown and myself left for the Kerikeri—had an agreeable passage. At 3 p.m. moved on for Hokianga

To give assistance to the Wesleyan missionaries at Mangungu.

, with the assistance of three horses. At sunset, halted for the night by a small wood—passed a very agreeable evening.

Tuesday, 18. At sunrise moved on and soon entered the wood The day very sultry. Did not meet any natives till we arrived at Waihou, where we saw Nene. They were building a pa as protection for the Rarawa—peace is not yet settled. At dusk we arrived at Mangungu.

Wednesday, 19. Commenced our consultations. For a considerable time everything doubtful—by 9 o'clock the sky serene.

Thursday, 20. By 5 o'clock everything concluded ready for our return. Landed at Waihou, where we remained for the night.

Friday, 21. Before sunrise we were on the move—mounted our horses and rode through the first wood. Breakfast at the last crossing, from whence we walked to the Puru—from whence we rode to the Kerikeri and passed on to Paihia. Learnt that Tohitapu had been speaking on the propriety of going to Mangakahia to endeavour to make peace.

Saturday, 22. Much fatigued with my journey.

Monday, 24. Titore came over to request some of us to go with them to Mangakahia

In this month there was fighting going on at Mangakahia on the Upper Wairoa betweent the Kaipara people and the Ngati-Tawaka of the Bay of Island, which Messers. Baker and Shepherd tried to prevent without succes. [See C. Baker, Journal.]

to endeavour to make peace. Concluded to accompany them. Wrote to Messrs. Kemp and Shepherd, to request them to proceed with the other party—according to the suggestion of the natives. Settled with Tohitapu for the land.

Tuesday, 25. Titore came over early this morning to say that we must not proceed on our projected expedition, when Hara

Hara, a chief and tohunga of Ohaiewai.

came forward to give some explanation as he had just returned from the Chiefs of the party, who had desired that none should pass by their plantations during their absence—moreover, that his sticks which he had thrown the evening before—indicated much fighting if we were to go. We said everything we could to induce them to move, but to no purpose. Both Mr. Fairburn and myself felt strongly persuaded of the propriety of going by ourselves by way of the Waimate, but were afterwards dissuaded by Tohitapu, who talked at such a rate as to frighten our wives and children.

Saturday, 29. Nothing in particular during the week. Cap. Brind arrived. H.M.S. Comet arrived from Port Jackson direct on Friday, in company with a Bark on their way to Pitcairn's Island to remove the inhabitants thereof to Tehaiti. On the return of Mr. Davis from the Waimate learnt that there was no prospect of peace at Mangakahia—their state very bad, a gloomy appearance. Taewanga went to Kororarika to give information.

Sunday, 3. After service my brother and I went over to Kororarika to see the Chiefs of Ngapui. They were principally there. We conversed with them for some time but to no purpose. No one would move in order to make peace. Cap. Brind came up to us in company with the Captain of the Nelson, who brought some dreadful accounts from the neighbourhood of the east cape. He had put in there with 3 boats and had rescued a man a European who swam off to him, there being too much surf to land. Upon which the natives opened fire upon them, and discharged about 300 rounds. No one was hurt in the boats. The Nelson arrived in the course of the evening. Concluded to leave early in the morning to proceed to Mangakahia.

Monday, 4.

W.W. gives the date of this entry as 24 January. Henry Williams was accompanied by W. T. Fairburn.

Proceeded early to Kerikeri. Took an early dinner and passed on to Waimate. All well there—great abundance of food. Greatly admired the road and general appearance of the country— rich and picturesque. After refreshment, mounted the horses and proceeded to Mangakawakawa, through extensive cultivation. The facility and pleasure of travelling by horses is worthy of remark. We passed rapidly along and enjoyed the scene around without fatigue, whereas on the road from the Kerikeri we had suffered considerably from the sun and heat. At sunset brought up for the night. Several persons passed on their way from Mangakahia— Ngaro

Ngaro, a chief of Hokianga.

informed us that no communication had taken place between Messrs. Shepherd and Baker with Tirarau

Tirarau, principla chief of Northern Wairoa. “A mild but determined man— a lion when roused” [Butler]. He signed the “Declaration of Independence” [1835] and he and his younger brothers, Taurau and Te Roha, signed the Treaty of Waitangi.

—that from the distance between the parties they were afraid to move—that scouting parties were out on both sides doing all the mischief they could—that the brethren would have returned, but that it was considered dangerous unless they had a strong escort.

Tuesday, 25. Rose at Daylight, and moved on immediately to Kowaewae where we halted for breakfast. None but women at the place—very civil. Passed through much fine land, until we arrived at Waipiro—some small lakes of sulphurous water. At 5 passed Tikorangi—halted at some water to dine. At sunset brought up for the night. No natives near.

Wednesday, 26. At daylight arose and moved on—had to pass the river several times running to Kaipara. About 2 o'clock came in sight of the first Pa at Mangakahia. The natives received us kindly. Met Messrs. Shepherd and Baker on their return home. Their account was very dismal. They had proceeded on Monday to the outer Pa, and arrived at it a little before sunset. As soon as they came in sight of the people in the Pa, they were fired upon, and continued so to be until they retreated behind some rising ground. After which they were called to come forward and entered into the Pa. The natives were exceedingly uncivil, and in their various speeches declared their determination to fight. On the Tuesday morning they left the Pa and came away.—Had much conversation with the natives here. They were very kind and killed a pig for us. Concluded that we all had better return on the morrow, as most of the natives with Temoranga and others had returned.

Thursday, 27. Every appearance of a gale of wind. Commenced our journey homewards. About 10 o'clock it came on to rain violently. At 6 o'clock we halted for the night much fatigued, and everyone wet from head to foot. Took some refreshment and laid down to sleep—distributed our blankets to the boys to preserve them from cold.

Friday, 28. A most dreadful night—could not sleep—had frequently to get up and hold on the tent. At daylight strong gale and heavy rain. Determined to proceed owing to the insecure position of our quarters. About 7 o'clock moved on, the wind and rain so violent as greatly to impede our progress. All the creeks and rivers full of water—passed some with great difficulty. At 10 o'clock the rain ceased, at noon arrived at the Waimate well soddened with rain, and at 8 at the Kerikeri, somewhat fatigued.

Saturday, 29. Fine morning. At noon arrived at Paihia. All well.

Sunday, 30. After service went over to Kororarika—had much conversation with the Chiefs there. They appeared uneasy at the accounts from Hokianga. Some of them determined to go, others to remain quiet, and for those who particularly desired to fight to go by themselves.

Monday, 31. In the afternoon the brethren arrived from the Kerikeri and Rangihoua. In the eveng. commenced committee proceedings.

Tuesday, 1 February. At close business all day. Cap. Duke arrived for England.

Wednesday, 2. Concluded business this afternoon. The Ship Loyd arrived for the Wesleyan Missionaries.

Friday, 4. The Wolf anchored at Rangihoua.

Saturday, 5. Went over to Rangihoua for the purpose of remaining the Sabbath, or rather of holding services in the morng. as Mrs. W. was far from being well. Two whalers at anchor there. Had occasion to go on board the Wolf. Saw both the Captains, they were particularly polite.

Sunday, 6. Between 20 and 30 men on shore, from the two vessels to attend service. They behaved well. After which a note was brought to me with the information that Mr Preece

James Preece joined the C.M.S. in the Bay of Islands in 1829. He served at Puriri, Kauaeranga and Herewaka. In 1847 he opened a station at Ahikereru in the Urewera. He married Mary Ann Williams in 1833.

was on board the Olive Branch, which had just arrived, to join the mission. After dinner had some very pleasing conversation with two boys belonging to the settlement relative to baptism. Their answers were good and clear. Concluded that they should be admitted to this holy ordinance in a short time. Returned to Paihia—saw Mr. Preece and read several letters from England and New South Wales.

Monday, 7. Read Capn. Davey's letter

This was a letter sent by Captain Davids of the Nelson couched in violent terms, which Clarke sent unopened to Henry Williams. Davids died in December 1831 and was buried by the Rev. William Williams. [Clarke, Journal, 21 February 1831.]

to Mr. Clark, also Mr. C.'s observations upon the conduct of these people when at the Waimate. These letters will probably be forwarded home, to be recorded with the remarks of Captain Dillon. Surely Satan must be driven to some of his last holds from the malice we witness amongst these whalers.

Wednesday, 9. The Wesleyan brethren arrived from Hokianga this eveng. very much fatigued by their journey.

Thursday, 10. Went over to Kororarika this afternoon to see the Chiefs there. Had a pleasant conversation with them. We feel it very needful to be very frequently amongst them.

Friday, 11. Went up to the Pa. Saw most of the Chiefs. They were very attentive generally tho some dead and insensible.

Saturday, 12. The Wesleyans embarked this morning, and soon worked out of the Bay. Some of the boys went up the river to speak to the Natives.

Sunday, 13. No strangers at Service this morng. Could not move out owing to the state of my leg. Conversed with Taewanga and others upon the general state of the natives. Taewanga went over to Kororarika in the afternoon.

Monday, 14. The Ann, Cap. Christie, arrived.

Tuesday, 15. Three vessels sailed from Kororarika. Several of the boys and girls came this eveng. with whom I had some very pleasant conversation.

Wednesday, 16. My boy Taha came to me after our prayer meeting to converse with me upon the state of his mind. The poor lad had his thigh broken some time since, while getting up a large log of timber in a gale of wind, and has ever since been very attentive to school and the means of grace. He had well nigh paid the debt of nature upon that occasion. He has constantly a strong desire after the truth.

Saturday, 19. Obliged to sit close this week owing to my leg, the appearance of which makes me uneasy. In the afternoon Captains Christie and Duke came over.

Sunday, 20. Two Captains and one boats crew over to service. Every appearance of a Gale of wind from the Eastd. Rain during the latter part of the day.

Tuesday, 22. Rain all day.

Wednesday, 23. Heard this morng. that some natives had been killed at —— and that the Urikapana were disposed to seek satisfaction. The last of the copper nailed upon the small vessel

The Karere, a cutter built at Paihia by Gilbert Mair. She was not a sea-going vessel, but was built mainly for the purpose of procuring supplies from native settlements, and was therefore of very light draught.

, which we hope to launch in a few days, to send for potatoes.

Thursday, 24. Mrs. Williams safely delivered of a Girl.

Catherine, who married the Rev. Octavius Hadfield.

Saturday, 26. Launched the Karere our small vessel to the edge of the bank, where she will remain till she is rigged.

Sunday, 27. Service as usual. No one over from the Shipping. Could not move out owing to my leg. Mrs. W. and baby doing remarkably well.

Saturday, 5. March. Went on board the Active to hear difference which existed between the Mate, crew and Captain. The Articles drawn out in so indefinite a manner, that we could do nothing. Some of the crew very insolent to the Captain.

Sunday, 6. After service went to Kororarika to the natives.

Monday, 7. The Brethren from the other settlements arrived for the quarterly meeting.

Tuesday, 8. Went to the Active with Mr. Yate. Mate and crew in sad state. Settled school question. In the eveng. felt very unwell.

Wednesday, 9. Very ill through the night and continued so all day. Ship Nancy anchored from Port Jackson.

Thursday, 10. Captain Pryce, two ladies and some gentlemen passengers landed. Much better today.

Friday, 11. Mr. Brown and I went on board.

Saturday, 12. Captain Pryce and passengers came on shore, appeared much refreshed.

Sunday, 13. Blew strong. No one on shore to service.

Monday, 14. Ship Nancy sailed. Went over to Kororarika to the natives. Dined on board of Cap. Grey's ship. The behaviour very good.

Wednesday, 16. Active sailed to Rangihoua for the purpose of taking Mr. Shepherd and family on board. Mr. Chapman and I went over to see Mr. S. Cap. Jack sailed in Prince of Denmark. 14 Heads

See Marsden L. & J., p498; Smith, Wars, p426ff.

on board of relatives of principal chiefs of Ngapui, who were killed lately at Tauranga.

Thursday, 17. Mr Brown and I went to Rangihoua. Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd not on board.

Friday, 18. Obs'd the Active working out of the bay. Wind. N.E.

Saturday, Sunday & Monday, 19, 20, 21. Very wet. No afternoon service on Sunday.

Wednesday, 23. Fine. Went up the Kauakaua to propose our having a small settlement for the purpose of more regular instruction. Kindly received and observed a considerable improvement in their attention. Several have been enquiring after truth. A Ship anchored in the River.

Sunday, 27. Our two little babies baptised. Thos. Sydney and Catherine. Not out today.

Tuesday, 29. Mr. and Mrs. Chapman

Thomas Chapman and his wife arrived in New Zealand in July 1830 as a catechist under the C.M.S. He accompanied Henry Williams in the exploratory tour of the Thames, and was stationed there. Later he established the mission station at Te Koutu, Rotorua, which was sacked during Te Waharoa's attack in 1836. He re-established the work on Mokoia Island and later at Te Ngae, where he lived for many years. He was ordained by Bishop Selwyn in 1844.

left for the Kerikeri, their future place of abode. Went up the Kauakaua to arrange for the settlement. Gave instruction for the erection of a small raupo house for any of us who might be up there. Hope much benefit will result from this step. The attention of the natives very good.

Good Friday, 1 April. Held Service, after which went to Kororarika—the natives very indifferent. While there the ship Hope arrived whereby I had a specimen of their feeling at such times. Tho they had been perfectly careless to what I had been saying, yet they now rose with one accord and flew to their canoes to see who should be first in the prosecution of that vice and iniquity which is the curse of this land.

Sunday, 3. After service went to Waitangi. Report among the natives of the death of Mr. Tapsel—that he had been killed and eaten in the neighbourhood of Tauranga, together with his wife, the sister of Warepoaka and others. He had been put there by the House of Jones and Walker of Sydney

Jones and Walker, a Sydney firm with agents in many parts of New Zealand as well as whaling stations.

for the purpose of collecting flax. The natives in considerable agitation in consequence of the various accounts from the Southd. of the number recently killed.

Monday, 4. Quarterly committee. Did not attend wishing to urge on the Carpenter's work. Could not go up the river owing to the ill behaviour of the boys. In the eveng. rec'd a message from Modunga

Morunga.

, to go up to the Pa in the morng. as the natives were preparing to go to the Southd. to fight

This proposed expedition was to obtain utu for Te Haramiti's defeat at Motiti Island in 1831. The taua was ready to depart when Moka “nearly blew his hand off”, and this ill omen caused them to postpone the expedition.

Tuesday, 5. Went up to Otuiho. Chiefs very civil. Told me that if our anger was very great they should not go, but that we must proceed with them to Kororareka to attend the council which would take place tomorrow if it should be fine. From the Pa we went to Kororareka to see the Ngapui, Titore and Rewarewa

Rewharewha, also known as Ururoa.

landed while I was there. The conversation with everyone very favourable.

Wednesday, 6. Wind from the Northd. rain through the day. Kope, the wife of William Lewington

William J. Lewington, master of the Karere and Columbine. He later entered into partnership with Busby and Gilbert Mair in a timber industry at Ngunguru.

died after lingering illness.

Thursday, 7. Went up to the Pa—saw Kauwiti, Hihi

Hihi, a well-known chief of the Taiamai, whose pa was about three miles from Waimate. Taking part in many of the battles of his time, he was one of the chiefs involved in the “Girls' War”, and was responsible for the death of Hengi. [Marsden L. & J., pp457, 459.]

&c. They were very kind and attentive to all I said. Kuki

Kuki, a Waimate chief, killed by accident in July 1832. “A quiet well behaved man and much respected by us all.” [Entry for 21 July 1832.]

came up from Kororareka to converse about the projected fight—a very friendly man and well disposed. The taua to move tomorrow.

Friday, 8. Blew hard N.N.W. with rain occly. Canoes could not come. A very pleasant conversation with natives in the eveng. at the Chapel. Heard pleasing accounts from the Kauakaua.

Saturday, 9. A heavy gale, much rain latter part of day.

Sunday, 10. A gale with rain. No service in the afternoon.

Monday, 11. Much rain through the day.

Tuesday, 12. More modt. Mr. Brown and I went up to the Pa— no one disposed to move—all for tomorrow.

Wednesday, 13. Fine morng., no rain through the day. At sunrise the Taua obs'd on the move. We joined in two boats—there were twelve canoes well manned, besides several others containing women and children. As we drew near the beach the muskets were discharged and all began dancing and singing. When we landed we learnt that Moka had blown his hand nearly off with the bursting of his musket. Rec'd a note from Mr. King with the account of the death of his infant. At 3 o'clock the natives began their speeches, when it was concluded that they should return to their own places and wait for the summer which meeting we trust the Lord will frustrate.

Thursday, 14. Mr. Brown and I proceeded to the Kerikeri to attend a meeting upon the projected alteration and addition for the School. Much rain in the eveng. Returned by 11 o'clock—tedious pull.

Friday, 15. Had to hold long conversation with Motoi &c. and give some payment for the 'Haumi.

Saturday, 16. Girls very troublesome.

Sunday, 17. Wind from the Southd. Rain commenced at 7. No afternoon service. Strong gale. Heavy rain.

Monday, 18. Gale subsided—very fine. In afternoon Mr. Yate arrived from the Waimate.

Tuesday, 19. Commenced the language meeting. Many interruptions by the natives. Old Tarea and some of his wives—very civil.

Wednesday, 20. Mr Brown and I went to the Ti by water and passed on to Tapuetai and Tako, where we arrived by dusk. The road very rough, had to pass through three rivers, and to scramble over rocks which were just out of reach of the surf. We were met by all the natives of the settlement and conducted into the Pa. Old Wata

Wata, an old chief of Takou.

very attentive to our wants, and in a short time we had the tent up and our tea prepared. As this was the first time of our coming here all thronged around us and several intruded within the tent. Old Wata lay down in the centre and the natives at his back, reserving the remainder for us. Every prospect of being over run with fleas and kutus. However as it was an important period, they being the principal people in the projected fight, as the people who had been so lately killed were their immediate relations, we conversed about the death of their friends

Motiti Island in 1831.

, the war, and peace with God through Jesus Christ our Lord—and certainly, I never was more gratified. They paid great attention. They stated their ignorance and pleaded the necessity of instruction and their savage desire for fighting appeared to vanish. We kept talking till eleven o'clock when we cleared our quarters with some difficulty and laid down to rest.

Thursday, 21. At daylight obs'd the Taua afloat from Taumatangi. Consequently after breakfast turned back, and arrived at Paihia at 5 o'clock.

Friday, 22. Obs'd the Taua go to Kororareka. My brother and I went over there to see them. Their conversation was very good. Rec'd by all very graciously. Mate

Mata, a chief of the Uri-o-hau hapu of Ngati-Whatua, who lived at Mangakahia. This hapu occupied the northern Wairoa River and were neighbours of the Ngapuhi, with whom they were united in blood ties through inter-marriage. Tirirau, Parore and Moetara also belonged to this hapu.

and his party there. In the afternoon the general assembly—conclusion very doubtful.

Saturday, 23. Fine. Noon went over to Kororarika. Learnt the expedition was frustrated. Passed on from thence to Rangihoua by sunset. The bark Lynx close to the beach.

William Lewington told me that the settlement was worse than a prison and that he was miserable—recommended him to obtain his freedom as soon as possible.

Sunday, 24. No one at service from the Ship, tho several were on shore prowling about. No Natives excepting those belonging to the school, and very few of them. In afternoon went to a party of girls who were congregated together on the beach, rolling about in the sun, having come from the vessel. I spoke to them for some time upon the danger of their situation. Some ran away, the rest remained quiet, but none spoke. Held afternoon service at 3 o'clock. Three Canoes came over from Kororareka—Ware

Ware, principal chief of Oruru.

, Haumia and others. After tea I went to them and had a most pleasing conversation with Haumia. Ware too much like his father rejected every word—he turned away. With Haumia however I was much delighted. I do not remember at any time any party appearing more interested. The resurrection of the body gained their attention and they expressed their delight at the idea of young and old being alike and the prospect of that eternal rest which remaineth for the children of God. They asked many questions respecting the time of our going to visit them and said they should certainly soon believe were we to go to them frequently.

Monday, 25. Returned from Rangihoua by 8 o'clock. William Lewington gave notice of his intention to quit, which was fully sanctioned.

Tuesday, 26. Employed all day at my brother's house laying stones for him. Rough coarse work. Wished that some of our friends were traying up mortar for us. Engaged a young man to finish the rigging for the Karere.

Wednesday, 27. Removed the school house about 60 yards from its original standing towards Mr. Brown's house.

Thursday, 28. All day employed in removing school house in which we succeeded beyond expectation.

Saturday, 30. Much corn and potatoes bought—the settlement overrun with natives.

Sunday, I May. Rain all day—no service in afternoon and eveng.

Monday & Tuesday, 2, 3. Rain all day—no work. The following bills drawn on Mr. Coates: Apl. 7£11.12.3Mr. Fairburn salaryApl. 126.19.10J. Johnson on accountApl. 412.10.0Mr. Kemp salary15.7.6Mr. Baker do24.1.0Mr. Clark do7.10Mr. Preece doEx T.E.N.

Thursday, 12. Fine. Went up the Kauakaua to see the natives. Had much difficulty to stem the current owing to the late rains. My boys had erected a very good house in which we were very glad to shelter ourselves from the cold, and kindle a fire. Very many came and attended our eveng. service, behaved very well and made many enquiries. Many old men were present. At a late hour retired to rest.

Friday, 13. Spoke at all the settlements around, but few inattentive persons. Returned home by the eveng. Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs arrived from the Kerikeri.

Saturday, 14. In the morng. all assembled to witness the launch of the Karere, but at the first movement she fell off the slip, where she remained for some time. In the afternoon they were more successful and got down some considerable distance, when the slip altogether gave way and down she came upon the sand. By the assistance of boards being placed under her she was without difficulty brought down the beach; though the whole affair was a sad specimen of clumsiness.

Sunday, 15. Service as usual. At high water the Karere floated off. In the afternoon went over to Kororarika.

Monday, 16. In the afternoon tried the cutter under sail much to our satisfaction. Mr. Preece and boys from Waimate arrived to shingle in the Kitchen for the school.

Tuesday, 17. As the natives had expressed their disappointment at our not having landed at the Pa yesterday, we again sailed up this afternoon and held a long conversation with them. They had prepared a feast for our boys and behaved with great kindness.

Friday, 20. Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs returned to the Kerikeri.

Saturday, 21. Rain. Mr. Preece finished the shingling. After dinner I went to Rangihoua to spend the Sunday.

Sunday, 22. Rain occasionally. Spoke to several natives in the Pa.

Monday, 23. Rain and wind directly against us: returned with great difficulty.

Tuesday & Wednesday, 24, 25. Heavy rain.

Thursday, 26. This morning went inland. Slept at the Aute. Old Hepatahi and all with him very careless as to the one thing needful, though attentive to us.

Friday, 27. The night very cold. At day light arose and went on to Maungaturoto and slept at Waitangi. Spoke at several places— my old friend Motoi took up his abode with us in the tent: he was conversing with the boys great part of the night, relating many an old tale.

Saturday, 28. Passed an agreeable night. At sunrise moved on for Paihia, where we arrived about 3 o'clock after a dirty and fatiguing walk. Overtook several persons at Waitangi assembling to go to Tauranga on a fighting expedition.

Sunday, 29. After service went to Waitangi. Saw Kahakaha

Kahakaha, one of Hongi's warriors. He was shot at the Whakatere fight near Waimate in Heke's war against the pakeha in 1844. [Maning, Heke's War in the North; Smith, Wars, p192f.]

and party, very much pleased with them, though many of them were out of the bush and had little communication with Europeans. None attempted to contradict our statements, but asked many pleasing questions.

Monday, 30. Commenced shingling Mr. Brown's house. Ship arrived from Port Jackson.

Tuesday, 31. The passengers came on shore.

Wednesday, 1 June. Employed at Mr. B.'s house. Captain and Mrs. Harrison came on shore.

Thursday, 2. Mr. Brown and I dined on board the Denmark Hill. Capt. Clark anchored in Elizabeth from Port Jackson. No news.

Friday, 3. A cutter ran into Rangihoua.

Saturday, 4. Kahakaha with 4 Canoes went from Waitangi to Tauranga. Titore came. Went over to Kororarika to endeavour to overtake some of the canoes, but they had passed on. Titore had endeavoured all in his power to prevent Kahakaha from moving but to no purpose. He said his relations had been killed and he must go to seek satisfaction, that it was far better that they all should die than suffer such indignities. Learnt that the Cutter was from Port Jackson.

Sunday, 5. Much rain. Cutter sailed from Rangihoua. Heard in the evening that Warepoaka had arrived from Port Jackson, and that all his people had embarked and sailed for Tauranga

In a small cutter in which he had come from Port Jackson. He took thirty men with him. [Smith, Wars, p438.]

to endeavour to surprise some canoes off that harbour. Much distressed with these circumstances. An American anchored which we concluded to be the Active. The Captain landed with whom we had much conversation: it is universally observed that the crews of the American Ships conduct themselves with that propriety which is unknown by our own countrymen in these seas.

Monday, 6. Messrs. Yate, Kemp and Davis arrived from Kerikeri. Went over to Kororarika to see Titore previous to his proceeding inland to the Hahunga. He appears for a native an amiable character and to possess a degree of dignity peculiar to himself. Observed this evening, with much delight, the natives in the Chapel by themselves, as we were all engaged. Unobserved by them I looked through a back window and saw the whole sitting in perfect silence with their eyes fixed upon the youth who was addressing them: as they were by themselves, he felt himself at full liberty and spoke exceedingly well. These meetings frequently take place.

Tuesday, 7. Occupied a considerable time with the American Captain, endeavouring to purchase some trade—too dear. In the afternoon squalls from W.

Wednesday, 8. Mr. Brown and I went to Rangihoua to see Mr. King as he had not been to the meeting. Called at Oneroa on our return, only 3 women present, the men all gone to the Hahunga.

Thursday, 9. Very fine. About 9 left for Taiamai with 30 natives or thereabouts. Met several small parties, but did not stop wishing to get to our journeys end in good time. Arrived about 3 o'clock and made all comfortable for the night. Several strange natives in attendance at our evening prayer. Had considerable conversation with them upon spiritual things. Spent a very pleasant evening.

Friday, 10. Very cloudy, every appearance of rain. Went to Owaiawai. All the natives of the place busily occupied in preparing for the Hahunga had a long conversation with Taki and his people. As this meeting may be considered as the prelude to their movement to Tauranga we spoke much upon that subject. The old man was attentive and polite. About 3000 baskets of Kumara were placed in a line occupying a quarter of a mile, 3 deep, kept in reserve for the Ngapuhi—perhaps double that quantity might be consumed in all, besides pigs.

Saturday, 11. Rain all night which continued through the day. In the afternoon shifted our quarters on account of the rain to a Rua where we were very comfortable by the aid of a good fire.

Sunday, 12. Squally all the morng. Held service with my own natives and all others who came near us, their conduct very good. In the afternoon went over Taiamai. Spoke at several places, some very attentive, others laughed exceedingly at the idea of the resurrection of the body.

Monday, 13. Fine mong. Went to Owaiawai. A great assemblage of natives, all preparing their temporary houses. Messrs. Yate, Baker, Hobbs and Parker

Mr. Parker arrived in Hokianga in the 1820s, and for a time boarded with the Rev. W. White. He had some association with the Wesleyan missionary John Hobbs. In 1840 Edward Parker bought land at Whanganamu, and in a map of Heke's war “Parker & Co.” are shown as being established at “Kaka Pt”, which is now known as Te Karaka. [O.L.C., 67-b/122–4; 307/706. G.B.P.P., no. 448.]

there. In the eveng. conversed with some of the leading men upon general feeling of the natives relative to Tauranga. Much satisfied with all which passed. About 60 of our Natives belonging to the other Settlements assembled at evening prayers, to the great astonishment of very many who had never witnessed these things before.

Tuesday, 14. Much rain in the night, which greatly disturbed our rest in the expectation of a gale of wind. The rain continued all the forenoon. When it suddenly cleared away, we concluded that it was better to retreat homewards: Mr Yate and party went to the Waimate; I and my party to Onewero, where we slept.

Wednesday, 15. Fine. Returned home in good time. Met a messenger at Waiarue with letters from England. 4 vessels in the Bay. Active not arrived.

Thursday, 16. An American ship anchored, and a schr. In the eveng. Cap. King and the Cap. of the American called. The news from England important.

Saturday, 18. Went to Rangihoua to spend the Sabbath there.

Sunday, 19. Fine. Waikato with part of the Hikutu landed, having returned by way of Wangaruru. They brought a good report from the Southd., and we hope that peace may thereby be accomplished, as both parties appear to be afraid. After dinner went to see my old friend Te-uri-o-kana

Te-uri-o-kanae, the chief of Rangihoua who signed the deed transferring the land at Rangihoua to Marsden for the establishment of the mission.

. He appeared perfectly insensible to his state, and as hard as a stone. Returned in the eveng. to Paihia.

Monday, 20. Boys empd. in clearing the Karere of lime, by which their feet were severely burnt.

Thursday, 23. Went over to Kororarika to see the natives—not many there, but attentive. Called on Cap. King. Titore reported two vessels comg. in. The Karere sailed at dusk for Wangaroa for potatoes. The Active anchored at Rangihoua. No letters from England. Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd and family returned.

Friday, 24. My brother and I went over to Rangihoua and to the Active. The vessel full of stores.

Saturday, 25. Mr. White arrived from Hokianga.

Sunday, 26. After service went to Kororarika to see the natives. A dreadful place—the very seat of Satan. The natives very far beyond the Europeans in their behaviour. Several English men at work on Ponyer's

John Poyner was a notorious publican at Kororareka, suspected of being a runaway convict. In 1835 Busby appealed to Governor Bourke for instructions on how to deal with Poyner's establishment.

boat, who retreated on our approach.

Monday, 27. The Kapotahi in the settlement respecting Waitara. Commenced mixing mortar and building chimney at the school house. Much interruption from the natives.

Tuesday, 28. At work at the chimney at the school. The Kauakaua natives here much talkg. The boys called off from their work.

Wednesday, 29. At work on the chimney at the school. The Karere returned from Wangaroa with about 300 baskets.

Thursday, 30. Landed corn and potatoes from the Karere. In the afternoon went to the Kerikeri.

Friday, 1 July. Ret'd to Paihia and resumed my work on the chimney. Rec'd a few english letters.

Saturday, 2. The Active anchored at Motuorangi from the Kerikeri. Captain and Mrs. Wright

Captain Wright, the captain on the missionary schooner, Active. In 1832 he with his wife and two step-daughters went to live at Omata, which lies between Okiato and Te Wahapu, where he grew wheat and vegetables.

spent the eveng. on shore.

Sunday, 3. The Captains and four boats' crews at service.

Monday, 4. Went to Kerikeri to the Quarterly meeting.

Tuesday, 5. At close business all day settling accounts.

Wednesday, 6. Concluded by noon, and returned to Paihia much fatigued.

Thursday, 7. Engaged with bricks and mortar. Much interrupted by the arrival of two gentlemen, who brought letters of introduction from England & Port Jackson.

Friday, 8. A party up the river to obtain a mast for the Karere which could not be accomplished.

Saturday, 9. Heavy gale in the night. Commenced plastering the school, made good progress.

Sunday, 10. Fine. Several strangers at Chapel—paid considerable attention.

Saturday, 16. Employed all the week plastering the school, and today commenced building the chimneys—laborious work—tho several of the native boys now very useful and able to take our places in the dirty work.

Sunday, 17. Service as usual, after which went across the water to the natives of the Kauakaua.

Monday, 18. Empd. plastering and building chimney. Mr. Davis arrived in the evening. All well at the Waimate.

Tuesday, 19. Mr. Brown and I went to the Kerikeri: on return rec'd a note from the American ship respecting the watering on our ground, as his people had rec'd notice to quit.

Wednesday, 20. Tohitapu came about Te Rahi, who had been committed adultery with one of his wives. He was particularly desirous that they should meet at once and fight, but I requested him to wait a little as I had a very unpleasant matter to settle with the American Captain. After much talking his cause was postponed till some future day. Went on board the American ship, the Captain very angry and highly indignant that his people were prevented from watering on our ground, and demanded to know by what authority we thus acted; to which I replied, upon the authority of its being private property and that we claimed the privilege of citizens, and consequently must preserve our land sacred to ourselves. He, however, did not appear disposed to consider anything but his own convenience, and said that he had desired Pomare

This chief, Pomare, was a nephew of Pomare I, whom he succeeded in 1826. Taking the name of Pomare in order to remind his followers of their duty to take revenge against the Waikato tribes for the defeat of his predecessor, he was nearly always at war with the other Ngapuhi chiefs. In 1830, as utu for the death of Hengi in the “Girls' War”, he agreed to the ceding of Kororareka to Ururoa. In 1837 in a fight between his people and those of Titore, he killed Titore. He collected toll from the shipping at Otuihu until the coming of British authority. An overbearing and dissolute man, but later in life became a Christian.

to water the ship and he should require him to go to the place in question, for which he had promised him a musket, and if that would not do he should give him two, if that would not accomplish it he would give him ten, and if that should fail he would give him something that would do. I endeavoured to have some conversation with Pomare but he was as obstinate as the Captain, and told me should proceed to the place as the tide flowed, which he accordingly did. After dinner we paid Pomare a visit at the watering place who was there with natives only. After some little conversation they left off getting water. I determined to take up my abode at the place for the night to prevent further proceedings. The Active sailed for the Kerikeri. Our boys in good spirits and we passed a very comfortable eveng. they feeling the great importance that we should be preserved from any encroachment on the part of the shipping. My boy Matiu engaged in prayer at our evening service, wherein he specially mentioned that we might be preserved from the evil communications of the Shipping.

Thursday, 21. Passed a good night, tho none slept much. The air was cold, but by the aid of a large fire we were very comfortable. At daylight Pomare's boat returned for the empty casks, which had been removed by us to the opposite shore: the natives were very civil. The Captain of the American Ship came but did not make any observation. He returned in about an hour with Pomare. In the interval Kauwiti, Hiamoe

Hiamoe, a relative of Te Koki, who lived at Kawakawa.

and Tohitapu came. The Captain departed as he came, in silence and I felt extremely thankful to our Heavenly Father who had thus protected us from insult, and had given us the victory. Our boys occupied in felling the trees around us to fill up the chasm thro' which the water flowed, to signify that none were to water there. We put up a fence across the entrance for the same purpose. In the afternoon commenced to cultivate a piece of ground adjoining in order to hold possession. The New Zealander Sch. which had been laying at Kororika shifted her berth close to the American ship. As her Captain is a known bad character, and one who attempted to pull Mr. King's nose some time ago at Rangihoua, we thought it not improbable that he had come to give the American some instruction how to act and to attempt to force his way to the water.

Friday, 22. Expected a visit from the two vessels, but happy to find that they kept perfectly quiet. Empd. cultivating at Wairuaiti— everyone in good spirits. Heard that Marupo was on his way with his party.

Saturday, 23. No appearance of Marupo. Mr. Brown and I went up to the Active, as Cap. Wright was desirous of seeing me previous to his sailing. On our return heard that Mahikai

Mahikai, younger brother of Marupo.

, brother to Marupo had been here to enquire whether or not the party was to come in the morning, as it was the Ra-tapu. If they were not to come, some of us were to visit them at Waitangi. He passed on to Toe, brother to Taiwanga, and relative by marriage to the offending party from Rotorua: on approaching Toe he ran at him and caught hold of his hair. Toe had a bayonet in his hand and by accident ran Mahikai through the wrist: though the wound was not of itself of much consequence, yet it was quite sufficient to create a serious disturbance. Toe immediately gave him a blanket, a musket and the bayonet by which he was wounded, and he departed well satisfied and would not have hesitated to have had the other arm served in the same way for the sake of a similar payment. After dark the alarm was given that the natives had come from Waitangi on account of Mahikai's hand; before I could get out several muskets were discharged and a few shot passed over our heads. I took some of our young men belonging to this party and went to Waitangi to learn the reason for this nightly visit, as being altogether out of order. Old Marupo at first was very angry and used very threatening language, but he gradually grew milder and desired that some of us would visit them in the morning. Returned home at midnight.

Sunday, 24. Went to Waitangi immediately after breakfast—the mob civil; but shewed much ill will towards the Rotorua natives and persisted in having their property. They desired that some of us would go in the morng. to them and conduct them to the settlement. My brother saw them after dinner. The remainder of the day passed quietly.

Monday, 25. The natives at work long before daylight securing fences and preparing for a bustle. At sunrise Mr. Fairburn and I went to Waitangi according to their desire. After they had taken repast they moved towards the settlement. They stopt twice to consult upon the propriety of proceeding forward and I was in hopes they would have given up the design altogether; however, they continued on and made a rush when they came into the settlement but were stopped from proceeding further by Te Hiamoe, &c. After considerable noise and scolding the whole was concluded by some stirabout—as the Rotorua natives had decamped on hearing the shot fly on Saturday eveng. Their behaviour was very good. In the afternoon hearing that the natives had commenced digging our ground at Waitangi, my brother and I accompanied some of them there and spoke to them upon the subject: one man put himself in a great rage and set fire to his rush screen which surrounded his house. It was put out immediately. The rest of the natives were civil. We proposed to them to mark out a portion as a settlement for them, where the old one stood. Some approved, others did not. Took our leave of them and returned home, much wearied in body and spirit, at our various perplexities for these last six days. In the eveng. Mr. Kemp arrived.

Tuesday, 26. Several natives—Various points of business to settle with them, which occupied nearly all day.

Wednesday, 27. Settled with Hiamoe and others respecting some land in immediate connection with the settlement.

Thursday, 28. Occupied at Mr. Brown's house finishing off.

Friday, 29. Went to Ongarue with the boys to prepare land for potatoes. Commencement of an Easterly gale.

Saturday, 30. Strong gale, heavy rain.

Sunday, 31. Much rain through the night, at daylight fine. After service went to the Wahapu, spoke to the natives there.

Monday, 1 August. Weather very squally.

Wednesday, 3. Squally, wind from Southd. In afternoon sailed in the Karere for Oruru. My eldest boy on board

Edward Williams, the eldest son of Henry Williams, who was born in England in 1818.

. Wind fair until midnight when it headed us.

Thursday, 4. Cloudy. Strong wind and foul. Had a good shaking all day. In eveng. little wind. Worked close in shore and made good way.

Friday, 5. A pleasant night—little vessel quiet—at daylight observed several rocks very dangerous in the dark—forenoon calm— caught numbers of fish. A canoe came off in afternoon to pilot us in, pulled the cutter in to entrance of Oruru. As the tide was flowing we went in rather faster than we desired and grounded upon a very rough bottom, on the left hand going in, and as it appeared shoal water all round we were glad to haul out into deep water, where we lay quietly all night.

Saturday, 6. Fine. Mahu made his appearance this morng. having followed us in his canoe and just arrived. He raised our expectations. At low water went and examined the river, found a good place where she might lay dry. At 4.30 the tide having flowed considerably, weighed and pulled in keepg. her close to the bank by a rope and brought her into a comfortable position. Every appearance of bad weather.

Sunday, 7. Fine mong. After breakfast held service on shore, on the grass, with those natives who were near the place. They were very attentive and expressed their ignorance in these things, but strong desire that Missionaries might reside near them, through whom they might be enabled to understand. This was the first Sabbath ever observed in this place, and all had abstained from work; but without teaching all would soon forget. The settlement was too distant to visit it. Wind from Nth.—apprehensive of bad weather.

Monday, 8. Fine. No natives expected today. In the afternoon took my coat of many pockets and attired as a pedlar with samples of my trade, consisting of combs, scissors, knives, fishhooks, &c., &c, Went up the river with the flood tide in company with Mahu and some of his relatives. Hills on either side, but little wood even for fires. No cultivation for six or eight miles. At dark landed at Oruru. The natives when we landed as uncouth as any I recollect to have met with—no food offered. Had but little conversation with them as their ideas ran wholly upon trade, and some of the more knowing ones were dealing in most marvellous tales about our general mode of purchasing at our own place, and that here we expected to have their things for nothing. Trading of any kind a most unthankful office. Endeavoured to compose myself to sleep but with great difficulty.

Tuesday, 9. Passed a rough night—hard uniform ground very cold, and found ourselves close to a pigsty, the inhabitants of which made so much noise as almost to deprive us of sleep. At daylight we moved up the valley, passed through several little settlements or family residences. The soil exceedingly rich, but the hills cold, barren, and little wood excepting in the distance, which appeared to be covered with large timber. Some hills which were a few miles distant I was told separated this place from Mangamuku, one branch of the Hokianga river. The Rarawa, an extensive tribe to the North, and Wangaroa to the South. These natives have never been visited, tho with all whom I have conversed they appear a promising people and very desirous of coming under our care. Obtained a few seed potatoes and returned by the ebbtide. Taeapa

Tarepa, one of the principal Rarawa chiefs.

, one principal chief, brought some potatoes and corn: bought also some from another man. Having satisfied myself that not many potatoes at this place beyond what they would require for seed for themselves, I consented to their bringing corn, at which they appeared well pleased. Had some very agreeable conversation with Taeapa and his friends. He solicited hard for some of us to reside here before he died, and wished that my boy Edward might be left as a companion for his son. I promised we would converse on the subject when I returned to my friends. The Ngapuhis, he said, were attending to us because we lived among them. The last Sunday was the first they had kept here, as they were unable to know when it took place. I told them I would lay their case before the committee for consideration and we would see what could be done. In a political point of view, it will be a great mercy to this people to establish a missionary station in this quarter: they begin to see the folly of war and experience the influence we have in restraining the various tribes, and in turning their thoughts to better things; but still we have to work against every opposition, for while we on one hand warn them to lay aside their evil practices, hundreds of our countrymen are continually supplying them with the means of destruction, and thus cherishing that thirst for blood so inherent in them. But we have to look beyond this to the salvation of the soul, and in this we are not without encouragement. Their argument is true, and the Ngapuhis (the general name for all the tribes around the Bay of Islands), are surprisingly altered within these two years, for which we thank God and take courage. Wind from the East, every appearance of a gale.

Wednesday, 10. Cloudy, strong breeze from N.E. Some old women brought 24 small baskets of potatoes for a double blanket: as 28 were the number stipulated for, would not receive them. Several persons appeared very inclined to be very insolent—gave them a good scolding with which they became satisfied and quiet. This trading is the worst part of our work, for it impossible to proceed without much noise, especially with those natives who live far from our settlements. Not being acquainted with us, they manifest every feeling of jealousy lest we should overreach, and thus we are too apt to fall out for a time. In eveng. came on to rain and blow.

Thursday, 11. Strong gale through the night with constant rain. No appearance of a change. Anxious to return. The natives about us civil, but very ignorant of our manners and customs. About noon a canoe came with five baskets of potatoes for seed, and eighteen of corn. At high water considerable sea within the point, surf outside very heavy.

Friday, 12. Heavy rain from the Southd. Endeavoured to haul off into deep water, but unable. Very stormy and fresh in the river. At 4 p.m. rain ceased, and the sun refreshed us even more after such an uncomfortable season. Made preparations for hauling off at high water which was accomplished.

Saturday, 13. Fine morning. As the seas had much gone down outside, prepared for sea. At 10.30 weighed and pulled out. Much swell and no wind, the sea breaking heavily upon Te Kawa and Nukutaurua—rocks standing in a very dangerous position for vessels at night. The former bears North of the entrance to Oruru, the second N.E½.E. Mahu accompanied us some distance out. I gave him a hoe for all his attention. He promised to return the compliment in the summer in potatoes. All the natives very civil and made anxious enquiries respecting our return in the summer. At noon breeze sprang up from the S.W. Mangonui E.S.E. Ko Paeroa N.N.W. At 1.30 Paeroa and Nukutaurua N.W. Ko Te Watu N.E.E.½E. Little wind during the afternoon. At sunset abreast of Wangaroa. At 10 close to the eastermost of the Cavallies.

Sunday, 14. Calm during the night. Heavy swell from the Eastd. At 11 breeze from the Northd. At 2 p.m. entered within the heads and anchored before 5 at Motuorangi. All well in the settlement.

Wednesday, 17. Went up the river in consequence of some natives having commenced planting in our ground. Wakaria pulling up the seed potatoes upon the plea of not having rec'd any payment for the land, had a good deal of trouble with him.

Thursday, 18. Very unpleasant conversation with natives relative to our settling amongst them and taking their land. Heard that some strangers were fencing at Waitangi upon our ground without leave, at which we were much perplexed; however felt determined by the grace of God to resist these encroachments. Went up the River with Tohitapu and Pumuka. Wakaria there with several others. He danced about in good stile as we approached the place, bidding us defiance, at which we laughed heartily at him. After a good deal of talking we marked a portion of ground for him. We told all present we did not want the ground for ourselves, but for those natives who were living with us. Cap. Dean arrived from England, brought private goods, also some for the Mission: very few letters.

Friday, 19. Captain Dean called.

Saturday, 20. Capn. Dean came on shore, mentioned that the Brig at Kororarika was in a state of mutiny, but he did not appear disposed to render much assistance. Told him that he was in the Bay we should not interfere.

Sunday, 21. Cap. Dean at service. A good number of strange natives also present. Cap. Dean mentioned that 21 casks of oil had been landed from the Brig by the crew. Requested Mr. Mair to go over and talk to the natives and take Tohitapu with him. In the eveng. they returned having accomplished their object, the oil was recovered and taken on board.

Monday, 22. Mr. Hamlin arrived from the Waimate to go on board of Cap. Dean to trade. Felt it our duty to request him to go by way of the Kerikeri where was a boat kept for their specific service, that communication might not be made through us, owing to the late resolution rec'd from the Society relative to this settlement, and also from the observation of Mr. Marsden

See Record, February 1831.

published in the Record for Feby. of this year. After dinner accompanied Mr. Hamlin to the Waimate: the road very much better than I had anticipated. Every one pretty well, the houses very comfortable.

Tuesday, 24.

[?] 23. The dates appear to be one day out from here to 4 October.

Walked round the Settlement: situation very delightful. Took a survey of Matahongia, the portion of land mentioned by Warerahi and Patuone: some portion good but generally very sour and barren.

Wednesday, 25. Rain—could not go out. Patuone and Warenui came to speak about the land, long conversation. In the evening heavy rain. Mr. Parker brought intelligence of the death of Mr. White's only child.

Thursday, 26. Fine. Returned to Paihia—pleasant journey. All well, thanks to our heavenly Father.

Friday, 27. Matiu's brother arrived from Rotorua with a young Chief from thence named Waretutu

Wharetutu a young chief sent by Pango of Rotorua to ask for a missionary. Henry Williams sailed on 18 October for Maketu en route to Rotorua, in company with Chapman and Taiwhanga.

. Much conversation with them as to the behaviour and disposition of the natives in that quarter. Generally in arms, bidding defiance to Ngapui, tho at Rotorua they were quiet and were much wishing that missionaries should be sent amongst them. They had been fighting and were still doing so on all opportunities, and were likely to continue, but if missionaries were to go there, they should then learn the good and the right way, and sit quietly as Ngapui did. In the eveng. conversed with the above Chief in company with several of our lads—very pleasing. I trust the Lord may have directed him to us for enquiry, intend to bring the question forward.

Sunday, 29. Fine. Several strange natives at service.

Monday, 30. Went up to the Kerikeri to see about some stores.

Tuesday, 31. Ret'd to Paihia.

Saturday, 4 September. Tohitapu had much objection to make to our going down at present to Rotorua, until all should be on the move for Tauranga. In the eveng. spoke to some of our boys on the objection of Tohitapu. They listened with patience, and tho very desirous to proceed, they acknowledged the propriety of the old man's remark. Messrs Hobbs, Stack and Parker arrived from Kerikeri.

Sunday, 5. Went to Kororarika and Otuiho. Several natives from Oruru at the former place, as ignorant & inanimate as the stones on the beach. Pomare and a small party was at Otuiho, their behaviour was good. Kiwikiwi spoke upon the propriety of going to his place in the Thames, having just returned from thence. The natives there had been expecting down for several weeks.

Monday, 6. Strong breezes and cloudy. Every appearance of bad weather. Messrs King and Baker arrived over land to attend our meeting.

Tuesday, 7. Some important conversation upon the state of the natives around. Mr. Clark arrived from the Waimate. Much rain in the afternoon. In the eveng. commenced the examination of the 14 chapter of Matthew.

Wednesday, 8. Fine. The brethren returned to their respective stations. All the afternoon employed at Mr. Brown's house, anxious for its completion that the school may be commenced upon the general principal. Mr. Brown has now been nearly two years on the island but hitherto unable to take all the boys from the great obstacles which have been thrown in his way. Hope that in three more weeks the school may be commenced.

Thursday & Friday, 9, 10. At work at Mr. B.'s house. It may be considered by some to be out of my place to be thus toiling at bricks and mortar, &c., &c., &c. as will partially appear by my journal, while Mr. Yate is otherwise employed, but be it remembered that family men here, have a great weight and responsibility to endure. They are dependent one upon another, and as they constantly require the assistance of their neighbours, so must they give in return. Thus are we therefore without distinction required to assist ourselves and all who may stand in need, and I trust that our children and grandchildren will behold for years to come with pleasure and admiration those exquisite pieces of work which their forefathers accomplished in the infant state of things in this land.

Saturday, 11. Rain all day. Tohitapu very unwell.

Sunday, 12. Fine. Several natives from Waitangi and elsewhere to attend divine service. Could not visit the settlement up the river, as the boat was at the Kerikeri.

Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday, 13, 14, 15. Employed at Mr. Brown's house. Tohitapu much worse: considers that he has been makutud by a Chief lately come up from the river Thames— expresses a desire to be removed into the bush where he may lay in state. Spoken to him several times upon the state of his soul, but all appears dead and insensible on these subjects.

Saturday, 18. Fine. Ship Elizabeth sailed. Mr. Stack on board. My Brother and Mr. Brown absent one at Kerikeri and the other at Rangihoua.

Sunday, 19. Fine. Went to Otuiho after service. A party of sailors came up to ask for some bibles, expressing their desire for some, not having any on board. Their deportment good. Natives attentive. Pomare and Kaka present.

Monday, 20. After school obs'd the Active coming round pt. Pocock, and haul up for the Kerikeri. Went on board. All well. Mr. Yate ret'd. Miss Williams

Miss Mary Ann Williams, no relative of Henry Williams, was born at Bristol, and went to Australia in 1828 with her mother to join her step-father, a Mr. White, then at Parramatta. For three years she had charge of the school of industry at Parramatta, and was then persuaded by Marsden to come to New Zealand to take the place of Miss Hart who was lost in the Haweis. She married James Preece on 25 January 1833. [Preece Papers, Auckland Public Library.]

passenger to assist in girls school at Paihia. The Rangihoua settlement to be removed to Tepuna, by order of the Corresping. Committee!!—French man of war

This was the French discovery vessel La Favorite, commanded by Captain Laplace, which anchored in the Bay in October 1831. Much excitement was caused by the expectation of this visit because of the rumour that the French were planning to annex New Zealand. The news was alarming enough to cause the New South Wales Government to order Captain de Saumarez of the ship Zebra to sail to the Bay of Islands to investigate, and, if he found the French to have taken possession, to lodge a protest on the grounds of prior possession by Britain. When he arrived, he found that Laplace had stayed for only a few days to rest his crew. [Lindsay to Goderich, 4 November 1831, H.R.A. I. xvi. 442; Granville to Palmerston, 23 March 1832, H.R.A. I, xvi. 578–9.]

expected. Considerable doubts in the Colony as to her intention.

Wednesday, Thursday & Friday, 22, 23, 24. Employed at the Chapel in repairing and white washing.

Saturday, 25. Rain. A treat to be enabled to get a little quiet.

Sunday, 26. Fine. In the afternoon went to Kororarika, but little attention.

Tuesday, 28. Several Chiefs came to speak respecting the letter to the King

This was a petition to King William IV sent through the Rev. William Yate by way of the Colonial Secretary of New South Wales in November 1831. It asked that the King should become the “friend and guardian of these Islands” to protect them from unscrupulous Europeans and from “the tribe of Marion”, i.e., the French, who were so called after the visit in 1772 of Marion du Fresne', which resulted in disastrous consequences for both Maoris and French. The Maoris did not forget the French retaliation for the massacre of du Fresne and his crew, and this memory was reflected in the petition. [See L. G. Kelly, Marion du Fresne at the Bay of Islands.]

to become protector of this island. Much trouble with Pomare, about a small piece of land up the river.

Wednesday, 29. Emp'd gardening. Active and Karere came down from the Kerikeri. Cap. Deans mentioned disturbance on board the brig lately come from Tauranga. Tarea desirous of killing two women who were on board, supposing they had come from thence.

Thursday, 30. A serious affair nearly took place this morning but thanks be to God the evil was prevented. Two boys were brought up under charge of thieving. One of them belongs to Taewanga; not being able to ascertain the truth, he struck the boy with a spade twice and threw it at him, and chased him into my garden, and would have killed him, had not he been prevented by my boys; so greatly had the enemy taken advantage of him. In the eveng. spoke to him upon the danger of his situation and exhorted him to watchfulness.

Friday, 1 October. Emp'd in the garden. The providing vegetables an important consideration. But two potatoes each the allowance. Titore came over to speak upon the projected letter to the King. Engaged two hours and a half with him and his friends, talking upon the state of affairs. He approves of our going up to Maketu to speak to natives in that quarter. He appears well disposed.

Tohitapu A well-known sketch of a famous tohunga whose name often appears in the journals. It was drawn by Henry Williams in 1832. (See page 264)

Henry Williams From two sketches made about 1846 by T. B. Hutton.

A Page from the Journals, 6 January 1832 The entry describes the expedition to Tauranga. (See page 213)

Saturday, 2. Was enabled to have the day generally to myself.

Sunday, 3. After service went to Otuiho, and spoke to the natives there. All very attentive. Saw Pomare and party by the side of the river. He said it would be well to believe what was said, but that we should then require him to put away his wives excepting one, which he could not do. Many women present some attentive.

Monday, 4. Rode up to the Kerikeri where I arrived by noon. Commenced business immediately after dinner. Held prayer meeting in the eveng.

Tuesday, 4. Report that the French Ship had arrived which was confirmed in the course of the day from Paihia. Sat close at business. The general examination ordered to be set aside.

Wednesday, 5. At business until near noon. After dinner rode to Paihia. Mr. and Mrs. White at the settlement from the Waimate.

Thursday, 6. My brother and I went on board the French Ship. All very polite. In the eveng. the Captain and two of the officers came on shore and took tea. They all spoke very agreeable english.

Friday, 7. The French captain came on shore with one of the officers, accompanied them up the river, but they did not appear to admire either the country or the natives, but thought the one very characteristic of the other. Mr. Brown and I dined on board.

Saturday, 8. Went to Rangihoua for the purpose of remaining over the Sunday.

Sunday, 9. Every appearance of bad weather. Very few natives at service. In the eveng. ret'd to Paihia. Very rough passage.

Monday, 10. Rain through the day. A gale from the N.E.

Tuesday, 11. Strong breezes and squally. Occasional rain through the day. The French ship sailed. After dinner went to meet the Bride and Bridegroom, on their way from the Waimate. Saw them on landing at Wauwauroa, conducted them to Paihia, in all between 40 and 50 persons. Quite an imposing appearance in this part of the world. The Bride and Bridesmaids were carried in chairs mounted on native shoulders.

Sunday, 16. After service went to Kororarika and Otuiho. Tarea in a great rage at Heke

This is the famous Hone Heke, who rebelled against the British in 1846. He was a Ngapuhi chief of high rank and a distinguished warrior. For a time he lived at Paihia with Henry Williams, was educated by the missionaries and at his baptism took the name of Hone. A troublesome youth, he was for a time an earnest Christian, but his dislike of pakeha encroachment on Maori customs and manners made him rebellious. He levied tribute on travellers through his district of Puketona. In 1837 he went to Kaikohe and from that base made his successful forays against the flagstaff at Kororareka. British armed forces attempted without success to defeat him at Ohaiewai, but succeeded at Ruapekapeka. He died in 1850. [For a full account, see T. Lindsay Buick, New Zealand's First War; James Cowan, The New Zealand Wars, vol I, pp14-87.]

; rest attentive.

Monday, 17. Making preparation for the voyage.

Tuesday, 18. At noon all embarked on board our little vessel the Karere. Weighed and made sail. Light wind from the eastward, but every appearance of strong westerly wind, which soon prevailed in our favour. Rounded Motu Kokako before sunset with fine breeze— fine night.

Wednesday, 19. At daylight abreast of Wangari. In the afternoon calm for some hours. About 4 o'clock a breeze. Continued our course until 10, when we hove to fearing the small islands and rocks amongst which we should have to pass. Appearance of strong wind.

Thursday, 20. At 2 a.m. made sail. Strong breeze and cloudy, saw two dangerous rocks awash which lay direct in the course. Noon fresh breezes and squally. Heavy swell from the Eastd. Our boy who acted as Cook not approving of his title, we changed it for Doctor which relieved his mind. At 4 every appearance of bad weather and being close to Tauranga we determined to run in. Came on to rain and blow very hard. Could scarcely see Maunganui tho close to it. As we drew near we obs'd the breakers high and nearly across the entrance, with a very considerable swell. However by the good providence of God we entered safely at 5.20, and found ourselves immediately in still water to our no small joy. The night was very rough. No canoes came off. Waretutu left for Maketu over land and to return in the morning.

Friday, 21. Passed a very comfortable night, the first we were enabled to go to bed. At break of day several canoes came off, Kiharoa

Kiharoa, chief of Ngaiterangi, whose pa was at Maungatapu, a peninsula in the Tauranga Harbour. He was killed by the Ngati-Whakaue at the storming of the tumu in 1836.

in one of them. All well behaved. All approved of our errand. At low water weighed and sailed up the river to Maungatapu. Many changes since last here. Several europeans and some new settlements. Matiu landed at Tumoetai. Rawiri

Rawiri, the baptized name of Taiwhanga. Rawiri is the Maori way of pronouncing “David”.

and Ngere landed and held long conversations with natives on shore. Weather very unsettled. Wind from the eastd., expected gale from thence. Long conversation with Kaiawa and others respecting the projected movements of Ngapuhi, they were very much interested. The natives appeared very numerous and seemed to recognise in us old friends. They spoke of their numerous guns and quantities of lead and powder; each boy had two and three and men ten. They are an interesting people. I have not known of their going against any other tribes since their possession of the means of attack; but to act on the defensive. They would gladly have missionaries amongst them, not altogether for our property which would be dispersed amongst them, but for instruction. May the great head of the Church guide us in this important duty of rightly dividing our strength, so that these people may be brought under our protection, being delivered from the cruel bondage of Satan and brought into the glorious liberty of the Children of God.

Saturday, 22. Strong gale all night. No prospect of going on shore. After breakfast rain commenced and continued all day. The boys occupied themselves in repeating their catechism, and singing hymns and appeared very comfortable. We in reading and as circumstances would admit; very much more agreeable than could have been expected. At sunset wind in same quarter, but not so violent. The natives have expressed their desire that we should visit them tomorrow, which I hope we may be permitted to do.

Sunday, 23. Strong gale, wind in same quarter. Rain ceased for a short period, of which we took advantage to stretch our legs; being so cramped with the smallness of our cabin. No prospect of going on shore. The natives on the beach hauling up their canoes. About noon wind ceased and cleared up a little. A canoe came off with two baskets of potatoes for which they wanted a hoe. We reminded them of the day

Sunday.

. They replied they just recollected and immediately pulled away. After dinner we went on shore, when all was immediately in motion. We were conducted up the pa but the rain coming on they proposed we should adjourn to a large raupo building which would hold us all. We accordingly moved on and entered a most spacious and magnificent house about 50ft. long and 30ft. broad. All sat in order and were attentive to what we had to say; it was particularly gratifying. All appeared much interested. We spoke to them for a considerable time, and afterwards entered into conversation with them. Returned to our little bark before sunset. There are four Europeans living here to purchase flax, but none came near us. Old Karawa came on board in the evening and remained for about an hour conversing upon various important subjects. They appear to remember that we were the first who came here, and to regard us as old acquaintances, and indeed as particularly connected with them. It is doubtless an important field for missionary work and I trust ere long something may be done.

Monday, 24. Fine. Wind west. At 9 landed on our way to Maketu. Kiharoa and several other chiefs accompanying us along the road for a considerable distance. Circuitous and roads very narrow which hurt our feet very much. The latter part of the road was on the beach, which was firm and very pleasant. Kiharoa conducted us to Paroa, a beautiful spot and extensive view. Sat down to rest and spoke to the natives there. Tolerably attentive. At 5.30 arrived at Maketu. Mr. Tapsal met us, and invited us into his house. Assembled all the natives around in the evening and spoke to them, upon the love of God in our Saviour Jesus Christ. Pita

Pita, the Maori transliteration of “Peter”. This man was one of Henry Williams's converts, of whom he expected much. He settled in Rotorua where his conduct greatly disappointed missionary hopes.

and Rawiri each said a few words. At 10 lay down to rest much wearied.

Tuesday, 25. At daylight arose much refreshed. At 7 embarked in a canoe, and passed some distance up the river to avoid an extensive swamp, tho we had afterwards to walk through much water and mud. The country very level for many miles, but not a tree until 3.30—the latter part of the journey very uneven. We met several parties of natives who had come to welcome us. About 5 o'clock we came up to a large party sitting on the brow of a hill waiting our arrival. As we drew near they gave us the usual salutation, and immediately set up their horrid crying at meeting several of their relations who were with us. All was speedily in motion in preparation for the night and we were glad to rest for a short time. After a little refreshment we assembled all for prayer, about 200, and we severally addressed a few words to them. They were very attentive, and asked many questions. The appearance of our camp at night very interesting, presenting 13 large fires and groups of natives. Some of the Chiefs spoke of carrying potatoes for our little vessel.

Wednesday, 26. A heavy fall of rain in the night, but our friends outside did not appear much disturbed by it. Slept well and much refreshed. At daylight rose and assembled our party for prayer. Breakfasted and moved on at 7 o'clock. At noon arrived at Rotoiti much wearied by our walk over some of the worst ground I had ever travelled in the land. A road truly characteristic of the natives, as rough and wild as they are. The latter part was through a wood. We embarked in two large canoes and pulled but a short distance to Houkaka where we remained owing to the wind being very strong. A singularly situated place upon the brink of a high precipice, and their roads so dangerous that we dare not pass along them. The lake appeared to extend in various directions. A pig was brought forward in compliment to our visit and as our boys were weary, we allowed it to be killed for them. Before sunset all were assembled for evening worship: every attention was paid. None of the Natives attempted to intrude within our tent.

Thursday, 27. A very comfortable night. At first dawn of day all in motion. Embarked as yesterday in two canoes and pulled through a winding course to Ko Hau

Ko Hau, the channel joining lakes Rotorua and Rotoiti.

, the entrance of Rotorua, but could not cross the lake owing to the wind. Landed at Kopapa and breakfasted. Ko Tohite ururangi landed shortly after on his way to Maketu. After breakfast we had prayers with the natives. About noon the wind having abated considerably we again got under weigh to cross over to Mokoia, which was accomplished with very great difficulty. We were nearly swamped several times. The natives managed the canoes very dexterously and by watching the seas we landed in about an hour at Arorangi, and were met in a most gracious manner. We had an opportunity of speaking to a considerable number upon the object of our mission, to which all paid the utmost attention. After which a most sumptuous supply of food was brought forward of potatoes, kumara and fish. This being the place of Taewanga's father-in-law the chiefs addressed themselves principally to him, which gave him the opportunity of stating our desires respecting them. We afterwards passed on in the canoes to Kaiweka, where Tipetipe

Tipetipe, a chief of Rotorua.

was waiting our arrival. Our reception was much the same as that at Arorangi. On landing we found all our party had taken their seats in the warm bath which was close at hand. The bath consisted of various compartments, each of a different degree of heat which was regulated by the introduction of fresh water from the lake. After the speeches were delivered welcoming us to this part of the country, we assembled for evening prayer. In the evening service chiefs came to the tent to converse, and expressed their desire that we should return to the bay of islands loaded with potatoes.

Friday, 28. Passed a comfortable night; the warm bath filled at break of day. Had a good deal of conversation with the natives upon the impropriety of men, women and children bathing together. After prayer, at which all were present, we embarked for Inemutu, and landed in about an hour; there were between 4 and 500 persons. After the ceremony of landing was over, we were conducted to the Pa, and received the usual tokens of welcome. After several chiefs had spoken, Taewanga introduced the subject of our errand. When he had concluded I was told that it was needful to make a speech, and I felt considerable satisfaction in being able to open my mind to them. In the afternoon we walked through the Pa and visited the warm baths and boiling springs in which the natives cook their food. They were very wonderful. We entered a large house in which they sleep, which was like an oven from the heat of the ground. We spoke to several parties of people during the day, who appeared well disposed to receive our message. The children at all these places seem far more numerous than in the bay of Islands. The day very hot. Pita and Ngere assembled the children to repeat the catechism, but it was not confined to them as very many men and women came also and repeated with them. After employing them as long as we felt proper, we walked to see a hot spring which possesses the quality of washing without soap. Several things were washed therein, which became perfectly clean. On a return we were presented with a baked pig and several small baskets of potatoes, which we received with a nod of the head. Before sunset assembled all for prayer. At the conclusion Matiu addressed the people in a pleasing manner, but as they expected me to say something, I spoke for a short time, but Taewanga did not wish them to disperse until he had said a word or two, as we had come a long distance, and should return in a few days. After he had concluded, several chiefs in turn arose and expressed the necessity of not allowing us to return without plenty of potatoes for our journey, for when we returned it would be said, they have no love for us. In the evening a large party came round the tent door to see us at supper and to converse upon various subjects. Their behaviour very good. They expressed great surprise at our using knives and forks, and indeed at all they beheld.

Saturday, 29. Comfortable night. Taewanga came at break of day to say that three canoes were going over to Mokoia respecting a dispute about some land. From what the natives said we deemed it well to accompany them, of which they approved. Before we landed it was agreed by all to leave the question to Taewanga and myself. We accordingly preceded the party, and communicated with the opposite party. After some angry expressions from the people of the place the question was settled. We had also a second suit to settle, each was respecting but a few square yards of land. After all was concluded the natives assembled together. We gave them a few words upon the one thing needful. Several chiefs spoke on the importance of accompanying us on our return and providing potatoes for us, otherwise the Ngapuhi would say they had no respect for us. We returned to our quarters at Inemutu about noon. After a little rest the natives came round to talk. One young man began to ask the meaning of letters. I wrote them down for him, and in half an hour he knew them all, and was teaching several outside. Numbers of others came until I had no paper left of any description on which to write a copy. At length they brought small pieces to have the letters written for them, and about 200 old and young were soon employed teaching and learning the letters with the greatest possible interest. At 3 o'clock about 150 male and female were assembled to learn the catechism. Amongst them were several old women. They afterwards returned to their letters and continued till the time of evening prayer, when I took the opportunity of speaking upon the service of the morrow, and the necessity of keeping it holy. Kept in close conversation with several until dusk. This has been I trust a day of great importance, truly gratifying and of great encouragement to us. Everything far exceeds out utmost expectations. I have neither seen nor heard anything to equal it in the land, both young and old appear to possess an interest altogether new, and I do trust the Lord will appear in their behalf to give deliverance. Accounts arrived in the evening that a Pa not far distant had been taken by Wera

Te Wera, one of the greatest of Hongi's chieftains, in 1823 accepted an invitation to live at Mahia Peninsula as the protector of the Ngati-Kahungunu. A clever strategist and courageous warrior, he defeated many invaders and enabled the Ngati-Kahungunu to consolidate themselves in Mahia and to reoccupy the Heretaunga plains. Greatly influenced by the missionaries he achieved a reputation for wisdom and magnanimity.

and most of the people had been killed. One had fled here to tell the tale.

Sunday, 30. Cloudy. Hoisted a sheet for a flag, a signal for Sunday, the first ever seen in this quarter. Matiu and Pita went to Rotokakahi. At 7 assembled the natives in a long house which they cleared away as it was commencing to rain. It was about 50 ft. long. They removed one partition and cut some holes to admit light and air. I was very apprehensive it might be unbearable, but did not experience any particular inconvenience, tho as full as possible. Before service commenced the boys brought their papers for me to hear them their letters. Most of them appeared to know them, and desired to know what they were to learn next. After service I addressed the natives upon the necessity of a new birth, which brought on an interesting and important conversation amongst the Chiefs generally. At noon heavy rain which continued till 3 when it cleared away. Assembled the youths for catechism. All the natives of the Pa came and appeared delighted. They afterwards repeated over their letters. At 5 we held evening service when I spoke upon the fall of man, and his salvation by Christ the light of the world. Matiu and Pita returned at dark with good report; numbers had assembled yesterday from the neighbourhood, but as no one went to them they returned in the morning. This must have been an astonishing day to these natives. Many new things have they heard today, surprising in their savage ears. May the Lord bless and sanctify the same to them.

Monday, 31. At daybreak chiefs came to request us to stop, as a Teretere was on the way to see us. Agreed to remain. After prayers assembled all to School. Formed them into classes; much delighted. In the afternoon strangers observed at a distance; all turned out to meet them. Before their arrival, the Chiefs requested me to give some account of our laws, relative to theft &c. They expressed great wonder that chiefs were as amenable to the law as a poor man, and said it would not be so with them. When the strangers arrived the usual meeting took place, and several of the Chiefs spoke, some in a ferocious, others in a more quiet manner. They called on me in conclusion to make a speech, at which the strangers gazed with much surprise at hearing these things so entirely opposed to their ideas. They retired to the Pa for refreshment, while those belonging to the Pa assembled for school. Before sunset all came together for evening prayers, when I addressed them. Numbers of Natives around the Tent in close conversation with us till near ten o'clock.

Tuesday, 1 November. At break of day Chiefs came, as we were to move this morning. Obliged to shave in public to their great amusement. Called to select a place for the School. As we were about to depart we were surrounded by all and took breakfast in public. At 8, we were ready to depart. The boys who had been nominated for the school at Paihia and Kerikeri were desired to remain, as it was apprehended they might be employed to fetch firewood, or set to work, or their hair burnt when cut instead of being deposited in some sacred place. The children came for fresh lessons to the last, even after we had taken our seats in the canoe. Can we question their desire for instruction. At 8.30 left the beach after taking leave of all. They called out to give us an english cheer, which was done in good stile. Pulled to Mokoia to take in some potatoes, remained there about an hour. The boys who were with us came and repeated their letters and figures to the astonishment of all. At 1 landed on our return to Maketu at Rotoiti. We here dined, and moved on at 3. We passed on at easy rate and arrived at our former sleeping place by 6 to wait for our train. We here heard that Waretutu's life had been threatened at Tauranga. Had prayers and retired to rest.

Wednesday, 2. Rose at 4 and immediately proceeded on our journey. Pleasant travelling in the cool of the morning. At 6.30 stopped to breakfast at Te Rewarewa where we remained some time to allow our party to come up. In close conversation with our friends relative to the movement of Ngapuhi in the summer. A little after one arrived at Maketu much wet from having to wade through the swamps at the close of the journey. Not much fatigued. Mr. Tapsel asked us in to refresh ourselves. In the evening intended to have proceeded on, but as it commenced raining deferred my march until the morning.

Thursday, 3. Much disturbed all night by fleas, as our beds were laid in Mr. Tapsel's store in which a large dog was generally kept. At daybreak natives in motion, as wind had shifted in the night and prospect of fine weather. At 6.30 took leave of Mr. Tapsel, after receiving every attention from him, and commenced our journey to Tauranga, leaving several of our party behind, owing to the expressions which had been made respecting Waretutu and some of our boys. Our walk was very pleasant along the beach, which was firm. At 2 arrived in view of our little bark and was soon on board, much rejoiced to be once more on English ground. We soon forgot all our toils and sent for Kiharoa and Kaiwaiwa to explain the circumstances of the late report and also to make arrangements for our departure. They came immediately and were very civil and wished us to return to Ngapuhi and say that they had no ill will towards them, and desired peace. Wind being fair we got under weigh and worked out. Presented Kiharoa with a blanket for the care which had been taken of the Karere. Tipetipe and our party from Maketu remained on board. Ran down the coast in a short time and hove to.

Friday, 4. Fine. At daylight light winds. 3 Canoes came out of Maketu and soon put us into confusion with fetching their things and bringing potatoes. Did not receive above 15 baskets in all notwithstanding all that had been said. A breeze springing up fair, we took our leave and made sail. About 10 wind shifted to west, and came on to blow very strong. Not being able to do anything against it we bore up for Motiti, where we brought up. Continued to blow strong until midnight.

Saturday, 5. Fine morng. wind in same quarter but modt. got under weigh and worked up to the weather shore. In the afternoon sent the canoe on shore for some wood and water.

Sunday, 6. Appearance of wind from the S.E. Attempted to weigh the anchor, but found that it had hooked a rock. After much trial were obliged to slip and make sail to get under command before the breeze freshened. At 8 o'clock strong breeze from S.W., reduced sail accordingly. At 3 ran under the lee of Mayor Island in a heavy squall being able to carry sail. Close reefed the mainsail and set storm jib. As we rounded, the gale so strong that we feared we should be obliged to put back. Continued our course at sunset, the Aldermen close on the weather bow. Considerable sea which frequently broke over us.

Monday, 7. More moderate, considerable swell. At 2 Taewanga gave notice of islands ahead of which we were unaware, not having a chart on board. At daylight Barrier island ahead, pleasant breeze at S.S.W. Made all sail. At 11 wind shifted to N.W. Stood close to land in smooth water. Before sunset wind again came off the shore. Steered for the outside of Barrier island which we passed close.

Tuesday, 8. Fresh breeze from the S.W. At day light the Hen and Chickens abeam. Considerable swell. At 2 Poor Knights S.W. 20 miles. Observing that our little bark was driven considerably to leward owing to the swell, we were in hopes if possible, to run back into our former sheltered position amongst the Mercury islands. Wind increased during the eveng. and squally, at midnight brought her under treble-reefed mainsail and the head of the foresail, looking to the Lord for his protection and divine guidance in this our very critical situation, having but little water and wood and the wind prevailing hard against us. May He who holdeth the winds in the hollow of His hand so control and direct them that we may ere long be brought into our desired haven.

Wednesday, 9. Our little Karere lay to admirably well, riding over the seas like a duck, scarcely shipping a drop of water. At day light no land in sight. Fresh gale and squally. Wind S.W. No one on deck for several hours but myself. Occupied myself in serious contemplation especially called forth from the peculiar situation in which we were. At 5.30 saw land S.S.W., concluded to be Barrier island. At sunset wind the same, squalls not so heavy.

Thursday, 10. At daylight modt. sea, much gone down. Wore and made sail. At 6 every appearance of shift of wind. Saw land S.W., same seen last night. At 8 light breezes from S.E. made all sail and stood in for the land. At 10 calm, which continued until 6 o'clock, when a light breeze sprung up from N.W. Took advantage of the fineness of the day to wash and scrub the vessel above and below and also our crew and passengers. All much recovered by the eveng., yet anxious to regain the land, fearing another gale from the Westd. which might drive us out to sea.

Friday, 11. Light breezes and cloudy. At 1 a.m. wind shifted to South. At break of day caught a shark 7 feet long, with 37 young ones full grown. Barrier island S.W. about 20 miles. At 7 calm which was very tedious, as we had now exceeded our time. At noon light breeze from N.E. made all sail which carried us along in a very agreeable way. Sunset light air. At midnight squalls gathering round. Shortened sail and wind shifted to W.S.W. Stood to the southd.

Saturday, 12. Light winds and fine. Close to N.E. end of Barrier island, run in shore for the purpose of replenishing our wood and water. Sent the canoe for a cask of water, fearing further delay. Ran down the eastern shore of Barrier island in order to gain the weather shore. No appearance of natives on the island all killed or dispersed. How blessed might hundreds of families be here. There are numbers of small rivers and bays, and timber in every part of the island, and fish in greatest abundance. Saw a Bark on the Lee beam. At sunset light airs and calm.

Sunday, 13. Light airs all night. At 8 light airs from the S.E. which continued through the day, by the help of which we crossed the mouth of the Thames. In the eveng. calm.

Monday, 14. Light airs all night. In the morng. caught a quantity of fish. At 9 light airs from N.N.E. with indication of a blow. At noon strong breezes, obliged to shorten sail and bear up, as the sea was getting up, and every prospect of a gale. At 5 we rounded the north head of the Thames, and entered a small deep cove

Little Omaha. The modern township here is known as Leigh. Omaha is still the name of the coastal areas. The cove, which is situated just south of Cape Rodney, was a favourite harbour refuge of Henry Williams on his southern journeys.

, which was as quiet as a fish pond with trees on either side growing down to the water's edge. Anchored in 3 fms. water, which was beautifully clear, with sandy bottom which shewed the fish swimming in great numbers while the birds were singing most delightfully in the bushes. We all went on shore to stretch our legs which was of great relief. All soon at work cutting wood, gathering oisters and shooting birds We soon forgot the troubles of the day. It is a remarkable fact that all the breezes which have in any wise been favourable for us this voyage have been so light as scarcely to carry us any distance, when those against us so strong as to prevent us carrying sail. All are very weary on board, owing to broken rest, and not having had our clothes off for these 11 nights.

Tuesday, 15. A quiet and comfortable night; woke by the singing of birds. Weather gloomy. Wind as yesterday. All went on shore and prepared for a gale; kindled two large fires, and erected a tent and a shed of Nikau for the boys, which was very comfortable. About noon heavy rain, felt exceedingly thankful for the shelter afforded from the gale. Hauled our vessel on shore to scrub her bottom.

Wednesday, 16. Rain all night, exceedingly rough, yet by the aid of some large fires we were very comfortable. At day light weather cleared up. Vessel aground and would not float until the afternoon. The appearance of the sky very unsettled, clouds moving in every direction. Made every arrangement for sailing. Everyone embarked by 3 o'clock when we floated and pulled out of the Cove. But little wind until 5 o'clock, when a breeze sprung up from the Westd. At midnight abreast of Te Wara. Breeze veered and hauled. Fine night.

Thursday, 17. Fine. At day light abreast of Wangaruru. At 1 close to Cape Brett, wind out of the bay. At 4 o'clock we determined to bear up for Wangaruru, being unable to make headway against the heavy swell from the Northd., caused by the late gale, and fearing that we might spring or carry away some of our spars. At 5 saw Thos. Kings

Thomas King was a carpenter who worked for the mission.

boat coming along the coast from the Southd. Wind more modt. entered the Heads at Wangaruru at dusk. Weather very unsettled.

Friday, 18. After midnight came to an anchor; dispatched Matiu in our small canoe to fetch one sufficiently large to convey us to the landing place. In about an hour he returned bringing a canoe with him and 4 men to take us up the river. Arose immediately tho all greatly fatigued, and were soon prepared for our journey. Landed at break of day and commenced our march with light hearts being better able to calculate the probable time of our arrival at home. The morng. was excedingly fine and the birds were singing on every side. The walk was truly delightful, more particularly so from being released from the vessel. Yet there were many painful feelings as we passed along without meeting or seeing a single individual, tho but a few months since all this neighbourhood was in a high state of cultivation, but since Taramiti

Te Haramiti.

had been killed, his people had been compelled to fly. About 6 we halted to breakfast at the last water, partook of some chocolate but unable to take anything else. The boys cooked some fish and potatoes. About 10 we arrived at Waikari, the natives were very civil, and provided a canoe, and the tide being out it was with difficulty dragged down the river. We availed ourselves of the opportunity of laying down in the canoe to take a nap, tho a short one, as we were required to stir up the lads, who wanted to land as the wind was blowing a little fresh and walk round. We landed at the Haumi with some difficulty, and we were met immediately by some of our boys. They danced and ran about as though they had seen someone from the dead, and were about to give notice at the settlement but were prevented. We were happy to learn that all were well and were soon relieved by the sight of those whom we held most dear on earth. All much concerned on account of our delay and the Active ready to sail in the morning in quest of us. The Captain of H.M.S. Zebra

H.M.S.Zebra “arrived from Port Jackson in quest of the French Ship of War having heard that she had visited this port and had taken possession of these islands in the name of the King of France.” [W.W., Journal, 15 November 1831.]

on shore having come in quest of the French Corvette

La Favorite.

Saturday, 19. Very weary. Cap. De Sausmerez came early to consult respecting the petition sent by the natives to the King praying to be taken under the protection of England. He remained very late.

Sunday, 20. Cap. De Sausmerez came on shore before the conclusion of Service. Talked until past two upon the subject of yesterday. Truly weary. Cap. Gray arrived for England.

Monday 21. Karere in sight. Mr. B.

The Rev. A. N. Brown.

and I went on board the Zebra by invitation to breakfast and to consult upon the question of yesterday, whether nor not anything could be done to the satisfaction of the natives during the stay of the Man of War. The good Captain could not come to any conclusion. He could not trust his own understanding nor anybody else. At 4 Mr. B. and I returned on shore and were much relieved by the departure of the Zebra.

Friday, 25. Went to Kororarika to see the Chiefs about the fight

The projected expedition to Tauranga. “The fight” is a traslation of taua much used by the missionaries and early settlers. Both the Maori word and the translation mean a “war party” and are used whether the “fight” is a mere local skirmish or a full-scale tribal war.

. Saw only Ware rahi and Moka. Told them we should see them on Sunday and Monday. They had much to say about going to the Southd. and what should be done there, that they would kill and eat all before them. Warerahi was very busy in preparing his canoe.

Sunday, 27. Two Captains on shore to service and two boats crews after service. Mr. Brown and I went Kororarika to see the natives. All the principal Chiefs there. Conversation was favourable. Would not enter upon the great question. Told them we would see them tomorrow. Very many sailors rolling about intoxicated. What a contrast to the natives.

Monday, 28. My brother and I went to Kororarika accompanied by Tohitapu. Rewa spoke for some time for war, but afterwards more modt. Fears expressed on account of Kauwiti lest he should fall upon the women and children during their absence. Commissioned to see him in the morng. and report the result. Te Moranga came from the interior. In the eveng. natives talkg. till midnight talking over the affairs of the nation.

Tuesday, 29. Tohitapu and Te Moranga accompanied us up to the Pa at Otiiho. Found Kauwiti there. The natives had much talk together.

Wednesday, 30. Engaged all day at the school attending to the whitewashers.

Thursday, 1 December. Engaged as yesterday. Mr. Puckey and family went to Hokianga.

Friday, 2. All the forenoon at the school attending whitewashers. After dinner went to Kororarika. Saw the Chiefs at their respective residences. Was grieved to hear some of their expressions relative to the War. They were respectful and appeared reconciled to the idea of some of us going to the Southd. Much distressed at apparent state of things. All is in agitation and ready for some desperate act. Angry feelings continually expressed and the tribes jealous of one another. True we experience but the shadow of those evils and trials which have been taking place in Europe, but these evils are desperate here nothing less than the utter annihilation of tribes is in contemplation. Were it not for the still small voice of God heard amidst all this confusion encouraging us to look to him and put our whole trust in him as our salvation we should certainly have been in despair, and consider that our strength was in vain. The Chiefs generally on the expedition are our most intimate friends, men who have distinguished themselves latterly in preserving peace, but now they appear actuated by a new spirit to work all manner of wickedness. I told them if they were strangers we should not say so much but they were our friends and relations, therefore if they determined to go we must go also. May the Lord grant that this may work for good.

Saturday, 3. Whitewashers at work at the school. Te Uri-o-kana and some of his friends paid a visit. Occupied some time with them. Afterwards Motoi, Haki and others called to speak about the Karaka

Pakaraka, purchased from Hake [see entry for 20 August 1832]. Henry Williams bought this land for his children to provide employment for them when they came of age. There was no other method of securing their future. Pakaraka became the home of Henry Williams after his dismissal from the C.M.S. in 1849.

. After much hindrance they departed. Strong wind from the N.W. Could not go to Rangihoua as I desired. In the eveng. much rain.

Sunday, 4. No wind through the day but much rain. No strangers at Service.

Monday, 5. Fine. Went to Rangihoua. All well. Heard that Ururoa was on his way, stripping as he came. Sent for Warepoaka and Waikato to learn their ideas relative to movements.

Tuesday, 6. Moka came over from Kororarika with whom we had much conversation relative to the war, he was more moderate. In the afternoon Hara came over wanting to sell 2 small pigs which we refused to do as he was so bad a character. He was very angry and said no one should listen to anything we had to say.

Wednesday, 7. Cloudy, appearance of bad weather. Obs'd several canoes under sail, standg. for Kororarika which we concluded was Ururoa. Tohitapu came and urged our going over, which we immediately did. He observed on our way that we must be very urgent with the natives and not regard their objections to our interference. We walked up to the residence of Moka where we met the principal chiefs of Ngapuhi. We were rec'd in a most gracious manner very different from anything I had observed before. After talking for some time we all walked towards Ururoa with whom I had much conversation. He certainly shewed he had no great desire for fighting upon the present occasion, and appeared disposed to go or stay as the Ngapuhi might give the word. Afterwards saw Titore who came over to Paihia and remained until sunset. As he was the principal of the present expedition, it was needful to know his mind respecting our movements. He was afraid to speak in public but said before he left that the natives must proceed on, that when we approached near to Tauranga, something might be effected. Messrs. King, Baker, Davis and Clark arrived during the day to consider whether or not any step could be taken by us to check the movements of these men in their present desperate affair.

Thursday, 8. After hearing everything which could in any way bear upon the question before us, we concluded that a sufficient opening presented itself for us to act: That it would be our duty that some of our body should accompany the expedition and influence the natives by any means in our power. The latter part of the day occupied in other questions of a public nature.

Friday, 9. Rain till 4 p.m. All former part of the day engaged with natives.

Saturday, 10. Ururoa left Kororarika with his fleet to the Southd. to wait for the main body. The boys repairing the bank with stones which had suffered much from the sea in some of the late gales. In the afternoon Tohitapu ran into the house considerably agitated, and said we must proceed immediately to Kororarika as Titore and Tarea were fighting. My brother and I accompanied him. Before we could leave the beach a great gun and a volley of musketry were fired. We found the natives in much confusion, especially the principals. Several persons said we must remain all night to keep the peace, as it was expected that Titore would set fire to his houses which would be a signal for a general battle. With Tarea we could do nothing. Titore expressed his determination to go inland, which we were glad to hear as we hoped thereby all would come to naught. A Schr. arrived from England. No news. Not a paper to be seen.

Sunday, 11. Passed a comfortable night on the beach with these people, a bundle of sticks for my pillow. Tarea in a sour mood, would not listen to any terms. After some time we returned to Paihia to service. The three Captains and two boats' crews attended. After dinner went over to Kororarika by appointment to see how matters were going on. Titore had taken his departure soon after our leaving in the morng. and had expressed his determination to go on by himself to Tauranga. The natives full of the transaction of yesterday. Had many fears as to the result of these things.

Monday, 12. Boys empd. about the bank. Heard that Titore continued in the neighbourhood.

Tuesday, 13. Three canoes came over from Kororarika in which were Tarea, Rewa, Moka and others. Prepared breakfast for all with five baskets of potatoes and some stirabout for the chiefs. Rewa appeared in full spirits, and all seemed disposed to be very polite. Their language was now totally altered and they desired that both the vessels might go in company with the fleet of canoes. Not a word was mentioned about killing and eating their enemies but all for peace should the opposite party be disposed. I could not but praise the Lord for having effected so great a change. Day and night have our hearts been lifted up to him, that he might confound their wicked imaginations and bring their devices to naught. This great effort of Satan shall doubtless redound to the glory and praise of God and the Redeemer the holy one of Israel. I conveyed Rewa to Kororarika in my boat for the purpose of some more private conversation, and was truly gratified to find that the plan of proceeding was in every respect what I could have wished. Tohitapu determined to prepare his canoe as soon as Ngapuhi had come to the present conclusion. In the afternoon Ripi

Ripi was a chief of Mawe, and was related to Ururoa. He was baptized as a Christian at Waimate in 1832, when he assumed the name of Nicholas Broughton, the Maori form of which is Paratene.

brought a letter from Mr. Davis to request that he might be received on board the Active and accompany the expedition, as he had been threatened by some tribes to be stripped on their return should he not shew himself amongst them.

Wednesday, 14. All very busy in preparation for the Taua and at work on the bank.

Thursday & Friday, 15, 16. Boys empd. as yesterday.

Saturday, 17. Kauwiti arrived in the morng. wishg. to be received on board the Active when she went to the Southd. as the natives had threatened to strip him on their return if he did not appear amongst them. My brother and I went to Kororarika. I saw Warerahi and Tarea, our conversation wholly upon the war. In eveng. strong breeze and rain.

Sunday, 18. Fine with strong breezes. After service my brother

Henry Williams's House at Paihia From a sketch by Henry Williams, probably made soon after he moved there in September 1830.

Mrs Henry Williams Formerly Marianne Coldham (1793–1879), she was married on 20 August 1818.

William, brother of Henry Williams and I went to the Wahapu to the natives and Utuiho. Te Uri o Ngongo very indifferent. At latter place attentive.

Monday, 19. Mr. Yate arrived from the Waimate.

Tuesday, 20. Several natives arrived to be present at our meeting. Mr. Kemp and Mrs. Chapman arrived. At 3 held our service. In the eveng. the European children took tea together at Mr. Brown's. The native boys and girls busy in making baskets &c. for tomorrow.

Wednesday, 21. At daylight all in motion. At 9 assembled for examination. Chapel well filled. After prayers natives were examined, boys outside, girls within until 11 o'clock, the english children until 1 o'clock. At 2 all belonging to the school and several chiefs were served with baskets of potatoes and pork and a roll of bread. In the evening each had tea and a small cake. The work of the girls was of the first order. Each produced something. All passed off well.

Thursday, 22. At 9 o'clock assembled the Schools for the distribution of the prizes. Nearly all of which fell to the girls.

Friday & Saturday, 23, 24. Preparing for my departure.

Sunday, 25, Christmas day. After service went to Kororarika, but could not command the attention of any. Several desired to speak upon the movements of the Taua but I requested them not. Numbers of sailors rolling about the beach in a most disgraceful state, using most horrid language.

Monday, 26. Went up to the Kerikeri. The war canoes at the entrance of the river stopt by wind. Mr. Kemp concluded to accompany us to Tauranga. Called on the fighting party on my return. All very civil expecting to move to Kororarika in the morng. On landing at Paihia Tohitapu informed me that we must be ready immediately as the armament would proceed in a day or two.

Tuesday, 27. Fine. Canoes obs'd pulling to Kororarika. Went over, conversed with all and returned by noon. Many applications to deposit the great guns in the Active.

Wednesday, 28. Most of the chiefs came over to call, hindered by them all day, very importunate. In the evening Tohitapu became very troublesome wishing to take a slave from the service of Mr. Brown who had been redeemed. The old man was very insolent and did not return the slave.

Thursday, 29. Tohitapu in same humour, and came to the house with a small staf in his hand, to drive out the wife of the slave he wanted who had taken shelter with us, as Mr. Brown was out of the way. I was obliged to turn him out. In the afternoon went to Kororarika to converse with the chiefs. On the return learnt that Marupo had dispatched a slave within the Settlement who was a reputed thief. To the killing of the man we could not say much tho Mr. Fairburn had endeavoured to redeem him with a pair of blankets, but the circumstance of his being killed so close to us was regarded by all as a sacrilege.

Friday, 30. Fine. The leading men of Ngapuhi brought their sea stock of fern root and potatoes to the Active, and some of their chests to lighten their canoes. This we felt our duty to comply with, in order to maintain an influence over them. Considering that they had declined the contest of putting their guns and ammunition on board, I felt much satisfaction in our being able to accommodate them in this particular. The Chiefs behaved very well and partook of an amazing breakfast provided by Mrs. Wright. A large party of natives of various rank sat down in our entrance room or hall, talkg. politics and regaling themselves with stirabout and potatoes for several hours. At times all talkg. together. Necessitated to pay them considerable attention. Hindered much all day with various natives. Tohitapu came early to settle our difference and make peace. He said that if I asked him to go, he would go with his canoe, but otherwise he could not. The ship Nelson arrived. In short time Cap. Grey and her Captain came on shore to inform us that Cap. Davey her former Captain had died on Tuesday, and that they wished to bury the corpse here, which was accordingly attended to at sunset. On the arrival of the boats we learnt that a disturbance had taken place between the crew of the Nelson and the natives, who crowded on board immediately on her coming to an anchor. The crew became intoxicated with rum supplied from Europeans at Kororarika in the absence of the Captain. One of them struck Rewa several times, and at length caught up a hammer, upon which the natives rose and commenced plundering and before assistance could be afforded had cleared nearly all the movable things on board. Mr. Mair was fortunately at hand, and persuaded the Chiefs to drive the people from the ship.

Saturday, 31. Titore came over to deposit his potatoes on board the Active. He related the disgraceful conduct he had witnessed on board one of the Ships last night, the Cap. and the Mate fighting until they could not stand. He endeavoured to separate them several times, but was prevented by other masters mates &c., &c., &c. Several canoes moved off this morng. from Kororarika, one of them upset, by which circumstance several casks of powder was wet. This will be a material feature in this present war, as it will be regarded as a bad omen. Mr. Davis arrived this afternoon to see us depart.

VI January to December 1832

War party to Tauranga — Peace parleys — Pomare plans attack on Waikato — Land troubles — Ceremonial with heads.

Sunday, 1 January, 1832. Four boats full of people came to attend service. Numbers of strange natives also. Much fatigued, did not move out.

Monday, 2. Numbers of canoes left Kororarika on their way to the Southd. Heard a number of guns in the way of Rangihoua, concluded that Warepoaka was on the move. The boys who were going with us in the boat, emp'd through the day in concluding all preparations, stowing the various boxes, &c., &c., containing our provision and clothes, our camp equipage, and putting all things in order, the sails and paddles, that nothing might delay us in the morng., observing as much ceremony as tho we were to undertake a voyage to Europe. Tohitapu and the crews of the two canoes no less occupied, placing their potatoes, garments, and lesser matters according to their respective wishes. The boys had made for the boat a kind of wickerwork covering to lay upon the thwarts, which answered the purpose of a deck to stand upon without disturbing any of our packages in the body of the boat. Everything was prepared with great neatness, and with strict economy to weight and room. Before sunset the boat and canoes were put afloat with great form. Most of the natives remained on the beach all night, talking and singing.

Tuesday, 3. Slept but little. Morng. cloudy, appearance of wind from N.W. At 6 having taken leave of our families and all who were remaining behind for we knew not what period, to set out on our novel expedition to Tauranga, Mr. Fairburn and I embarked on our boat, Tohitapu and Toe in their respective canoes, and pulled off amidst the cheers of all who had assembled to see us depart. There was something affecting in the scene, from all the connecting circumstances. We rounded Tapeka with a fair wind. Spoke Titore at Ko Pito. He wished us to land and remain till the weather should be more favourable, as the wind was now strong, but it was too near home, we preferred moving on, and sailed to Korokaua, a quiet shady place in Paroa Bay. Here we shall probably remain for the night. At sunset wind strong. Pitched our tent and spread out our beds. We had provided four pieces of canvass, 7 feet by 4 each, painted to use as occasion might require; to protect us from the damp from beneath, and from any leak in the tent in heavy rain. Assembled all for evening service, our party consisting of about 40. Matiu engaged in prayer in a very pleasing manner, imploring the Divine presence to go with us, to give us grace in the sight of all, to terminate the horrors of war, and to prepare a way for the spread of the Gospel, that this people who had long been the captives of Satan, might become the children of God through the merits of Jesus Christ. Many of the youths discharge this important duty far better than we can, having a greater command of language, abounding in figures of speech. The night was fine.

Wednesday, 4. Passed a good night; free from fleas, considering the natives were on all sides close to the tent. Wind strong and in the same quarter. As there was appearance of abundance of rain, the natives emp'd in preparing against it, in making sheds, which they do with great quickness, and perfectly secure from all weather. They cut a few sticks, which are everywhere to be obtained, tie them together with the flax plant, and thus form the frame of their shed, and cover it with toetoe, a kind of long grass, four to five feet long, and so also at the sides and ends as they may require. In the afternoon heavy rain were glad to avail ourselves of our painted canvass to put at the top of our tent. Natives feasting and making themselves comfortable, occasionally relating some old tales of former deeds. At sunset more favourable in appearance.

Thursday, 5. Fine morng. no signs of movement among the natives, the discharge of several muskets which we concluded were from Titore, put all in motion, and in a short time we were on the way. In less than an hour landed at Ko Porua, a comfortable sheltered spot. Titore at a short distance from us. At low water we went to see him and spent some time with him. Some were making up cartridges, some making paddles, but the great number sleeping. This will form our greatest point of duty to embrace every opportunity to see and converse with the people to endeavour to moderate their feelings towards Tauranga, and also the natives in the Thames. In the afternoon Tohitapu pretended to be very sick. I fear we shall have a good deal of trouble with him. At sunset very fine, everything prepared for moving at break of day.

Friday, 6. At break of day Tohitapu called out that a gale of wind was coming on, which induced the natives to lay still. To be unnecessarily hindered by the fears of these people, we felt would be a great trial of patience, but the expedition was theirs, and it was our desire to remain passive. Mr. Fairburn and I arose to examine for ourselves. Obs'd the wind from S.W., the fine weather quarter. After some trouble all began to move. Titore clear off the ground; pulled on and doubled Cape Brett, at 7 o'clock. Thus have we been 3 days moving a distance of 20 miles, but so superstitious are these people, particularly in their war expeditions, that they must not take any cooked food in their canoes, and should but a few drops of water be shipped, they immediately land in great fright. If they should be in a situation that they cannot land, everyone immediately ceases talkg., and they commence “Karakia” their incantations. But our object being to keep close to the leading men, we must even endure the tardy movement. Smooth water as we stood for Moanarua, obs'd several canoes standing to the Southd. At 10 joined Rewa and others pulling into Wangaruru, but a few hours walk across to Waikari, which is a short distance from Paihia, the place from where we returned to Paihia in our late visit to Rotorua, not being able to enter the bay of Islands. We here breakfasted and soon found that it was not the intention of the natives to move. We went to pay the natives a visit, who were near us. While talking with Rewa the sea breeze set in which was as fair as we could desire, but he would not move, as it was contrary to custom to be in a hurry. This was truly vexatious as all were eating and sleeping. Everyone however was very civil, and Rewa enquired as to the general idea of making peace. Some fears expressed respecting the natives in the Thames, as to what part they would take in the war. He spoke of his going with me on board the Active to Haureke.

In the afternoon being weary with laying about the weather being very hot we pulled out to fish, and also to examine this part of the bay. Where we were there was not shelter for a vessel, the water being shoal. We caught a few fish and called on Titore. He proposed that we should move early in the morng. which was very congenial to our wishes. I asked him why the natives did not keep closer together. He replied that it was their usual way for each party to go where they liked, that every one was his own chief. What want of wisdom even in a worldly point of view, but thus it is. Without any one to direct, not only does each tribe act distinct from the other, but each individual has the same liberty. If one be bent on mischief, he cannot be restrained by the others. Thus tribes frequently suffer owing to the obstinacy of an individual. On returning to our quarters we found Tohitapu in a great fright lest we should move off in the night and leave him. He said he would break all the canoes, and the people should go back, but as he had not much ground for his fear we laughed at him and requested him to compose himself. Evening very fine.

Saturday, 7. All in motion before day, and having finished our morning devotion on the beach while it was yet dark, we embarked and were soon in the midst of a formidable fleet. Several strong contests in pulling. We kept our station very well, tho weak handed in comparison to several of the canoes. We landed at Mangati to breakfast. Here were remains of several sheds, built by some party which had preceded us, and our natives set to work to calculate numbers by the stones which were laying, used for the purpose of pounding fern root, counting a certain number to each stone. They concluded it was Rewarewa, and pointed out where he sat, and where others sat. In about an hour we sailed pleasantly onwards with the sea breeze. The coast very rugged, no appearance of natives. We arrived at about noon at Tutukaka, a beautiful little place with several deep coves where small vessels might find shelter at any time, tho some sunken rocks at the entrance. All the party put in here, in consequence of Titore's canoe having taken in a little water, they all made for the shore as fast as they could, exclaiming that he was upset. No more moving today. We pulled into snug quarters for the morrow, and pitched our tent. The natives prepared their houses of Nikau. The spot we chose was on the bank of a river, amongst beautiful shrubs and karakas, a tree very like the laurel; the ground was covered with grass. We were perfectly shaded from the sun. About 1, the Active passed close to the entrance, but she was too quick for us to make any signal to her. After dinner, we pulled round to see Warepoaka, Rewa, &c., &c. All in good humour; concluded to sit quiet tomorrow. Tohitapu in a strange mood unable to comprehend him. He has been complaining ever since we have been out, sometimes flourishing as in health, at other times rolling about and turning his eyes as tho he was at his last gasp. I view this as part of the farce, as having much to do with the movements of the expedition, as the old priests dream dreams and tell unaccountable tales. He is now encouraging the boys to sing and make a noise. Spent an agreeable evening under all circumstances. The natives talking and singing in groups around fires. The night very fine.

Sunday, 8. Cloudy. Tohitapu very busy in decorating his person in his european clothes, and in directing the preparations for our service, ordering the ground to be covered with small boughs of shrubs. At 8 o'clock all the natives in our neighbourhood assembled and behaved well. It was the first Sabbath that had ever been regarded here since the creation. It was truly pleasing thus to be met together, a congregation of New Zealand Warriors, here called aside from their usual horrid conversation to sing the praises of the Lord, and to hear of Redeeming love. They all acknowledged that it was a good thing thus to be assembled together.

Some of Titore's people contrary to his desire were in the woods shooting pigeons and hunting pigs. After dinner we went round to Rewa, Warepoaka, &c. with whom we held service by their especial desire. In the evening cloudy. Tohitapu very noisy respecting appearance of the weather.

Monday, 9. Much rain in the night. Musquitos very troublesome. At 6 rain ceased. Signal given for moving. No wind. About 11 a breeze from S.E., the canoes were afraid to venture round Te Wara, the outer head of Wangari, but knowing that the Active was in the Harbour, we pulled on in company with Toe in his canoe. As we drew near the Headland, it presented a most singular appearance, at a distance it is very striking, but on coming close there are various pieces of rock, representing human forms. The entrance to Wangari is good, the shore on the right being bold, and immediately round the outer point is fine anchorage. The Active was at anchor and we were glad to get on board to change our society, situation and diet, for tho our good wives had made every provision for us which could be devised,—in pies, plum puddings, preserved fish, pickles, hams, bacon, eggs, &c., &c., all in compact order in boxes for the purpose, so as to keep good for months, merely being to be boiled one hour, when required to be eaten,—yet nothing could compensate for the want of order and regularity known to an english man. We were happy to find ourselves once more at home, for such we considered the Active. Mr. Kemp and Cap. Wright soon came on board and delivered letters for us all from Paihia. The natives were highly delighted with theirs and we were soon very comfortable. We learnt that Tarea, Warerahi, Moka, &c., with the Hokianga natives were here, and that a serious disturbance had taken place between the Ngapuhi and the natives of the Pa, but that it was now settled.

Tuesday, 10. Cloudy. Much refreshed by a little rest and quietness on board, Pulled down to the natives, all very civil, but anxious for the arrival of the other canoes. Delivered to each principal chief a small quantity of Kao, remained some time amongst them, and returned to the Active. Mr. G. D. Brown

Gordon Davis Browne came to New Zealand in the 1820s and was associated with the firm of Raine & Ramsay in the ship-building yards at Horeke, Hokianga. He returned to Sydney destitute in 1828. Captain Ranulph Dacre brought him and fifteen men in the Belina to establish a spar station at Mahurangi in 1832. The Admiralty, however, took forcible possession of the standing trees, and in 1836 Dacre transferred Browne and his workmen, thirty Europeans in all, to his old station at Mercury Bay. Here disaster overtook Browne. By the carelessness of a workman two shiploads of spars were condemned by the Admiralty, and the news drove Browne into a mental breakdown.

, a young man of considerable respectability, formerly a merchant in Sydney, but now residing here for the purpose of procuring flax, called on board and represented his precarious situation. Tended our services as far as respected his private property, but that muskets, powder, &c., &c., must run their chance.

Wednesday, 11. Cloudy. Fresh breeze from S.S.W. No signs of Tohitapu, Rewa, Titore, &c. Moka came on board, peculiarly polite. Active shifted berth closer to the natives. Pitched my tent on shore for the purpose of being near the natives and to keep a watch over their movements. Our encampment was on a woody point, projecting some little distance into the bay, perfectly screened from the scorching sun. None of the main body of natives came near us. Tarea was on our left, about 400 yards. Warerahi, Moka, &c., &c., on our right about the same distance, but a little in the rear. The Active at anchor about a quarter of a mile in front.

Thursday, 12. Fine. After breakfast went up the river with Cap. Wright, Messrs. Kemp and Fairburn, to Ko te Kapaha, the Pa of Motutara

Motutara; a chief of the Parawhau tribe of Whangarei. This tribe was allied to Nga-Puhi, and in 1824, as the result of pressure from the tribes of the Thames, left Whangarei and came to live about a mile from Paihia. Motutara was involved in several war expeditions, notably in Pukerangi's attack on the Waikato in 1832. [W.W., Christianity Among the New Zealanders, p60; Lt.-Col. St John, Pakeha Rambles Through Maori Lands, p19.]

, a most singular and romantic spot, being a pile of huge stones of all sizes and shapes, standing by themselves and as a native fortification impregnable. Conversed with the natives as long as the tide would allow. Called on Mr. G. Brown on our return.

Friday, 13. Titore, Rewa, &c., &c. came round from outside. Warepoaka had passed on, owing to the improper conduct of the natives here in going to disturb those of the neighbourhood. After breakfast we went to see them all, they were very glad to see us and gave us the usual welcome, haere mai, haere mai, Come, come. They concluded that as tomorrow was Saturday, it would be well to move on in the morning, and sit quietly on Sunday, and expressed a wish that we should communicate with the Popoto on the opposite side of the bay, that all should assemble for general muster, as they had not done so since their leaving the Bay of Islands. About 4 all were engaged in preparation rubbing up their muskets decorating their heads with feathers and tying round their waists shawls and handkerchiefs of various colours as aprons. Some few of the leading men had a mantle of scarlet cloth trimmed with dogs' hair, others had splendid native mats: thus equipped with two or three cartridge boxes each, and here and there a sabre. Each tribe or party formed into a body by itself at their respective places, waiting a signal for their movement, during this period all was noise and confusion, each giving his opinion how the whole should act, the women, children and dogs contributing their share to the clamour, running this way and that. At length one party moved with their arms (muskets) erect, slowly, but without step, on to the beach, the usual parade, having more room, and also being level, the tide being out. Having taken their station, they were followed by a second and third, and so on until all had joined that party who intend as they reserved part of their force who took up their station some distance off, in order to give them a meeting, which is universally done by a wild savage rush amongst each other, or the two parties pass each other, turning again and forming one body. They now prepare for their Haka, or dance, accompanied with horrid yells and screeches, throwing their bodies into frightful attitudes, distorting their countenances, turn their tongues nearly to the back of their heads, and their eyes rolled inside out, each jumping as high as his strength would allow him, tossing up at the same time the stock of his musket, to display the brass, which is kept perfectly bright. This being repeated two or three times to the admiration of the beholders, and the exultation of all, they sat down, leaving a space in the centre, room for the speakers to run backwards and forwards, as they deliver their sentiments. This duty is generally taken by the chiefs, tho anyone is at liberty to speak. Upon this occasion, the speeches were very poor, and their numbers roughly calculated at 400 under arms, which, with those already passed on, will make up about 800. Some of our friends expressed a wish for some stirabout, and as the boys had caught a great quantity of fish we did not hesitate to comply with their request. However, Moka, that evil disposed creature, found an opportunity to make a disturbance, wishing to obtain two shares for himself, which caused a great deal of noise and angry expression. Several of the Chiefs spoke seriously to Moka on acct. of his conduct. The boys low spirited owing to what had passed.

Saturday, 14. At break of day I was woke by voice of Titore, who said he had come to speak respecting the disturbance of last night. He is always very well disposed, and stated that the chiefs had all been very angry on account of Moka, but that everyone knew that he was a bad man. In the eveng. Moka very vociferous urging the natives to go up in the morng. to strip the potatoes plantation. Titore would not allow any of his people to join him. Hearing that others were going, we sent a messenger to Warerahi and Tarea, to request their interference with the canoes. They behaved very well and said they would keep off the people. Moka was very angry and spoke for a considerable time, frequently firing his piece to denote his anger more strongly. He talked till past midnight. They invariably chose the evening or night for their discussion, when all is still, as each remains at his own place, though perhaps ½ a mile apart, and thus carry on their debates.

Sunday, 15. Moka's voice again saluted the ear at dawn of day but I was thankful to learn that he had prevailed nothing. Thus are we encouraged to use the means, leaving the result to our heavenly Father. At 8 we held service on shore with our boys, and all others disposed to come. Our congregation not very large. At 10 we had service on board with the crew of the Active. Mr. Fairburn went up to the Pa to converse with the natives there. In the afternoon I pulled over to the Popoto across the bay. Spoke to two distinct parties of Jesus and the resurrection. They expressed themselves very much interested, and were very encouraging. In the eveng. the Karere arrived, bringing letters from the Bay of Islands, and a supply of Peach pies, &c., and some green peaches. All were well at home, a grateful piece of intelligence. About 9 o'clock a canoe came off, pulling close to the Active, makg. a great noise and singing with voice of victory. In passing us they called out that they had caught 4 englishmen. We told them to come alongside. The men were part of the crew of the Lucy Ann, laying in the Thames. They had left her 23 days, and were on their way to the Bay of Islands. The natives had stripped them of nearly all they possessed, but afterwards returned some of their things to them. Much consultation amongst the natives as to what should be done with the english men. Most were for harnessing them to the great guns, that they might work them against the enemy. The natives very busy preparing to move before daylight.

Monday, 16. Fine morning. All in motion at 2 o'clock. Had the baggage put into the boat, and joined the canoes, pulling out. Tarea's people called out to us to know what was to be done with the 4 men. We advised them to let the men go, which was done. Had a very pleasant sail as far as Tokohore. Pulled into Mangawai

Mangawhai. The reference is to the famous battle of Te-Ika-a-Ranganui in 1825. [Smith, Wars, p329ff.]

, an important river, tho very shoal at the entrance. Formerly this part of the country was thickly inhabited by Natemaru, but now no one to be seen, all having fled through fear. Everything is desolation. Up this river Hongi landed, when he went against Kaipara, and drew his canoes overland a distance of sixteen miles, to the head of Kaipara river. We here obs'd large slabs of freestone, which will prove, on some future day, of great importance in building. Moka fired a number of rounds from his great guns here, termed paura mamai, sacred powder, which is expended, as this was the place where he received his wound in the thigh.

In the battle of Te-Ika-a-Ranganui, Moka was severely wounded, but was rescued by Taiwhanga. On his recovery he took the name of Kainga-mataa (“wounded by a bullet”) in memory of the incident.

There were many pretty places up here, and marks of former settlements, but the people had been swept away as with the besom of destruction. Former residences of tribes now no more, are continually pointed out to us, but we may hope the day is at hand when the Lord will grant deliverance to this people, and stay the arm of destruction. The canoes continued to arrive till 4 o'clock, unable to count them so dispersed but suppose between 40 and 50. The Active and Karere passed on to Maha, our old anchorage at the entrance of the Thames. Pitched our tents in a snug, retired spot. In the evening Warerahi, Tohitapu and Tuwakatere came to talk upon state of affairs.

Tuesday, 17. Rose at 3, cloudy, appearance of rain, but wind fair, determined to proceed to the Active. Spoke to Warerahi upon the subject, to which he consented, but desired us not to make any noise, to disturb the people generally as the weather appeared bad. At sunrise, clouds cleared away, and presented a fine morning. We sailed with a fair wind, a considerable distance, and soon perceived the fleet in motion. We arrived at Maha about 10 o'clock, and in the course of the day 12 canoes came in. The others put on shore on the way, owing to the shift of wind from the sea. Titore pulled round in his boat leaving his canoes outside; he had long consultation and wished us to go round in the morning, to speak upon further proceedings. Pitched our tent in a very retired spot amongst the bushes secure from the sun. The natives of six canoes, in distinct parties, around. The remainder of the canoes in a cove a short distance from us.

Wednesday, 18. Much difficulty to arrange the potatoes on board the Active, belonging to the different chiefs, owing to the stupidity of the men on board. After a good deal of trouble, put all right. We afterwards proceeded with Tohitapu and Rewa overland to Titore, or rather to endeavour to find him out; but after wandering through thick bush, and over several high hills, we discovered that we had taken a circuitous route and gone eight times greater distance than was required, and now obliged to return, without accomplishing the object, as the bush was on fire through which we wanted to go. We were all much fatigued with our rugged road, completely destroyed a pair of new shoes, which was a source of considerable regret, as my possessions were very scanty. The natives very apprehensive that Tarea would return to the Bay of Islands, as he had not yet joined the main body, and was in a large canoe, with no other persons except three of his wives to pull her along. The canoe was Tapu'd, having conveyed the body of Hengi, the principal chief killed at Kororarika, to his former place, and was now being taken to the place where his sons were killed, for the purpose of being broken up and burnt, and was consequently termed a Waka mamai. There are very many things, such as garments, war instruments, paddles, &c., &c., amongst the different tribes now going up, which are on their way for the purpose of being, I think I may say, offered up to the manes of the dead. They are therefore all sacred, and thus the whole of the natives are detained, because no one can enter this said canoe but old Tarea and his three wives. This was now the second time of his being left behind. A circumstance happened this afternoon which had nearly proved serious to many, or perhaps to the whole. A large shark had been caught, which turned round and fastened upon a man's shoulder, his companions immediately came to his assistance, but not succeeding in extricating him, an attempt was made to kill the shark with a hatchet, when the unfortunate man received a cut on the back. The mad creatures, without considering the cause of the accident or indeed that it was an accident immediately flew to arms, and would have fought, under the idea of having satisfaction. How lamentable the state of this people, even as respects this world.

Thursday, 19. At daylight pulled round with Rewa and Tohitapu to Titore &c. Vast quantities of fish. While here Tarea arrived with his canoe. Everyone concluded he would be very cross; better than expected. It was proposed to take him across the Thames to Barrier island in the Karere, and tow the canoe, and the party for Hauraki to embark this evening on board the Active.

Friday, 20. Active sailed at daylight. Weather unpromising. Wind from the Eastd. with a good deal of sea. Natives around generally at work digging fern root, and making paddles. Walked round to Popoto and others. Saw Mr. G. D. Brown, who returned with me to dinner and spent the evening.

Saturday, 21. Fine, but wind from N.E. No appearance of making any progress. This however would be of little moment were the natives more orderly; they form a complete troup of uncontrollable fellows. Have been much concerned to hear that the Popoto, the natives from Hokianga, intend going in different directions up the Thames

The Popoto tribe, under Taonui, went with the Nga-Puhi under Rewharewha to Tararu, Thames, and there joined Te Hira of Ngati-Maru to attack Matamata. [Smith, Wars, p445ff.]

, to endeavour to fall upon the women and children of the Allies of Tauranga. Some of the chiefs have been protesting against it, but we must commit the cause to the divine guidance of the great disposer of all things. Titore indisposed, sent round for some medicine, tea and sugar.

Sunday, 22. Wind still the same. Passed a more comfortable night, having sent for my bed from the Karere, as there are no signs of moving onwards yet, the weather against us. My bed hitherto has been formed of ferntops. Considerable exclamation amongst the natives at the sight of some excellent fern root which was dug up yesterday. Moka immediately gave order to launch his canoe for the purpose of going in quest of fern root. All immediately in confusion. I felt that to speak to him was of little use, yet it was my duty. I sent therefore to say that it was the Ra tapu, and that he must not resist the command of God, that tomorrow we would all go. He desired his people to remain quiet, which called forth marks of approbation from those near me. Thus are we encouraged to use the means, with simple faith in the Lord to accomplish the end. This Moka is brother to Warerahi and Rewa, a daring, impudent, self willed savage, of considerable influence in way of mischief, possessing I believe no one good quality. At 8.30 assembled all in the neighbourhood to service. They behaved very well. After dinner went round to the Popoto, not many there. However I had a pleasant conversation with Taonui

Taonui, a leading chief of the Popoto tribe, who lived at Otakura. He was one of the great chiefs of Hokianga.

and others. He appears a man of much observation and reflection beyond the natives generally. Towards latter part of the afternoon, the natives sitting round had much to endure to refrain from working. Huki, a man of great respectability, sitting at the extremity of the beach, was at work with his people, but immediately laid it aside on my approaching him. In the evening, Moka and Tohitapu put their canoes in order for moving in the morning, and from a few expressions that escaped them, I could perceive that their intentions were bad respecting any natives they might see. They told me they were hungry, and as the wind continued from the eastward, they must go and dig fern root, and cross the river at a narrower part, and that I had better remain with Tarea and Titore, but as I considered they were disposed for mischief, I determined to keep close to them, and leave the Karere to Titore, but first to send a messenger in the morning. Much cast down at this effort of Satan. Oh, when will the arm of the Lord be revealed in New Zealand.

Monday, 23. The canoes did not move, as the weather appeared more unpromising. Sent Matiu and Taui

Taui, a young chief of Te Morenga's tribe at Taiamai.

over to Titore to acquaint him with the position of affairs here. They returned at 10.30. None of the natives there approved of the projected movements. They were very angry with Moka and Tohitapu. As Titore was still unwell I sent him some tea and sugar. In the afternoon I was obliged to strike my tent, and shift my quarters on board the Karere owing to the unbearable stench, which had been increasing for some days, owing to the number of natives around being too great for so small a place, which brought together such multitudes of large flies, buzzing on every side, that I could not endure it any longer. The place quite stank of rotten fish from the vast quantities which had been caught and suffered to lay about. Wind still the same N.E. unable to proceed on, all at a stand. May the Lord bless our feeble efforts, then will our trials and perplexities be light indeed.

Tuesday, 24. Three weeks this morning since we left home, and not more than a day's sail from thence. Fresh gale with rain. The little vessel riding very easy, tho the sea directly in. I do not allow my thoughts to be disturbed by any anxious feelings respecting the weather or the movements of the natives, so as to hasten them, wishing to leave this important matter between the Lord and them, feeling assured that in this respect, he will do all things well, to their good and his glory.

Wednesday, 25. Weather more modt. but considerable sea outside. Wind nearly the same. Went on shore to see the natives. All in much want of food. Felt strongly disposed, should wind change in the morning to N.W. to run over to Hauraki.

Thursday, 26. Thick weather, but little rain through the day. Wind about Nth. Mr. G. Brown came and spent the afternoon. Complained bitterly of the delay of the Natives. He would gladly pass on in his boat, but the natives will not let him pass. In the evening rain. Natives calling out for food.

Friday, 27. Weather more modt. no rain. Took up my quarters on shore for a change. Far more comfortable. No news, no movements, sad sacrifice of time, which would not be endurable but in the hope of rendering important service to this people, temporal and spiritual. Was enabled to pass my time tolerably well in reading, writing and drawing. This last greatly astonished the natives, to see the effect of a few pencil marks on paper. Several the canoes left for the purpose of digging fern roots. Some of our boys returned in the evening with a considerable quantity. Sharp times for all.

Saturday, 28. Weather cloudy and unsettled. Several persons came from Te Wakatuwenua, to enquire after the Active. Many doubts and fears expressed lest the natives on board should be killed. They related superstitious conduct of their party in consequence of having burnt some sticks which were sacred, the remains of some old sheds, and also some flax. A son of old Tarea who had died long ago, and turned into a Tanewa, God of the Sea, had appeared to him and upbraided him and his party with great wickedness, and that he would not be quiet until he had some men as a satisfaction for the sacrilege done, that the present strong winds were on that account, that he would upset their canoes, and the sea should be rough for a considerable time. Old Tohitapu and others listened with great earnestness during the relation, and confirmed the opinion that the gale was in consequence of their trespassing on the sacred spots. Their fears of the Tanewa are very great. They must not put cooked food into their war canoes, eat, or spit while afloat, or even have any fire in them, or smoke their pipes, which must certainly be a considerable exercise to their faith. I told them that the people of England were the great men of the ocean, they went everywhere without fear of the Tanewa, that were their vessels larger, they would move as we did fearlessly from place to place, but this they could not see. They speak of remaining many days, that the sea may be perfectly smooth. At sunset, wind from S.S.W. fair for the bay of Islands. Intimated my intention of sailing immediately as we could be back before any movement. They approved of our proceedings. We accordingly got underweigh and were soon on our way with a good breeze, leaving my boat and the lads excepting two.

Sunday, 29. At 1.30 close to Wangari, fine night. At day light abreast of Tutukaka. As we drew near Cape Brett, wind very variable, and considerable swell. Could not round the Cape till sunset.

Monday, 30. Fine night, but little wind. At 8 a strong breeze from N.W. which carried us soon to Motu-o-rangi, where we were boarded by the boat from the Settlement, and learnt the grateful intelligence of all being well, in my family, and in the mission. In the course of the day Mr. and Mrs. King and family, Mr. Baker and Mrs. Wright, Messrs. Clark and Davis, arrived, bringing their children to school. In the eveng. all assembled in my house to tea. Nineteen adults and thirty-three children.

Tuesday, 31. Weather very unsettled, felt very weary.

Wednesday, 1 February. Wind S.E., appearance of a gale. Boys emp'd making preparation for our departure which we must do as soon as the wind is fair.

Thursday, 2. Wind same but more modt.

Sunday, 5. Cloudy, wind in same quarter, S.E. Much refreshed by the services of the day. In the afternoon went to Otuiho, very indifferent attention. Eveng. fine.

Monday, 6. Fine morng. clouds moving from the Westd. Took my departure after breakfast for the Southd. tho somewhat apprehensive we should have to put back. As we rounded Cape Brett wind shifted to South. Made but little way. Worked up close in shore, wind strong, natives very sick. At 8 p.m. wind shifted to S.E., squally, bore up for Paihia.

Tuesday, 7. Thick, squally weather. At daylight observed the colours on board the Nelson hoisted half mast, signal that the Captain was dead, whom I interred in the afternoon. It is but a month since Cap. Davey was buried, and now his successor, who was then in perfect health. Mysterious providence. A solemn call to all but especially to his unthinking crew. I addressed a few words to them at the grave. All very serious, but I fear would soon forget.

Wednesday, 8. A gale from the Eastd. with rain. No prospect of moving. How thankful we ought to be in remembrance of the innumerable blessings we live in the constant enjoyment of both the temporal and spiritual beyond those around us. Several natives from inland enquiring the news.

Thursday, 9. Not much rain, but sultry, little wind from Eastd.

Friday, 10. No rain former part of the day. The Master of the Fairy called. As he had just returned from Maketu in the neighbourhood of Tauranga we were desirous of learning the state of things there. He however spoke with utter indifference of the position of the natives, and of their disposition to fight. It grieved my heart to hear an english man speak so carelessly upon the subject as it is much to feared that many of our countrymen have a great deal to do and say in this matter in exciting them to every ill feeling. May the Lord frustrate all their evil designs. In the afternoon heavy rain, wind freshened in old quarter.

Saturday, 11. Wind and weather same. Gave up idea of moving.

Sunday, 12. Two native children baptised, and the sacrament administered to some of the natives. The first time since the establishment of the mission, a pleasing service.

Monday, 13. Wind against us. As very much time is every day lost fetching water from a distance, for the use of the house, I set the boys to dig a well close to the house, which it is my intention to brick round. Found water about 7 feet below the surface.

Tuesday, 14. It being uncertain how long I might remain at home, set part of my boys on the well. The remainder with myself occupied in taking down the chimney in my study and rebuilding same.

Wednesday, 15. Wind from the Eastd. The Active arrived, all well. Some of the natives had crossed the Thames

This refers to an expedition of about 200 men which, early in February, separated from the main party and, under Ururoa [Rewharewha], Wharerahi and Wharepoaka, made a raid on the people of the Thames Valley, penetrating as far as Matamata, and causing great destruction among the Ngati-Haua and other tribes. [Smith, Wars, pp444-6.]

others had gone up, and were amongst the different islands there. Determined to remain till Monday. The well and chimney going on, but not finished.

Thursday, 16. The well had given way at the bottom; held a survey upon it, when it was concluded to make a cylinder of boards and brick inside to keep the sand from falling in. Finished my chimney, which was a great improvement to my little room.

Friday, 17. Finished my well, fixed the iron pump sent out from England, which answered admirably. Rec'd a letter from Mr. Yate to call a committee to detain the Active from proceeding to Tauranga. Kauwiti and others called to speak of the affairs to the Southd.

Sunday, 19. After service, went up to the Pa, not many natives, but attentive. Kaka behaved well. Much difficulty to keep them from speaking upon the present expedition. The Nelson sailed for the Colony.

Monday, 20. Little wind all day. The brethren arrived from Rangihoua, Waimate and Kerikeri. No business, as the Nelson had carried letters. Much rain in the afternoon, very sultry.

Tuesday, 21. Fine. My boys employed putting our things on board and preparing for departure. At noon a sea breeze, weighed, and sailed in the Karere, with a better prospect of proceeding than when we went out last. At 4 spoke the Clarkson Bark. 11 months from Port Jackson, no news, eveng. cloudy, with drisling rain, wind variable.

Wednesday, 22. Cloudy, light wind S.E. At 8 calm, at 11 breeze E.S.E. which carried us past Wangaruru. Good prospect before us.

Thursday, 23. Light winds from the Southd. At daylight Tutukaka about 6 miles on the weather bow. Weather very fine, had good view of the harbour. Wind shifted about noon to N.E., very light. At sunset changed to South. Passed outside the Hen and Chickens, pleasant breeze through the night, a good deal of swell, boys stupid with the motion of the vessel.

Friday, 24. Fine. At daylight Hauturu ahead about 4 miles. Calm most of the day. At sunset a light air from N.W., made all sail.

Saturday, 25. Fine and calm. Ko Moehau about 3 miles, at 8 breeze from Eastd. which shifted in course of the morning to N.N.E. Sunset cloudy. Mercury Islands East 5 or 6 miles. No appearance of our people. Very apprehensive they have all passed on and probably commenced their murderous and wicked proceedings unless restrained by the mighty hand of God. Poor creatures how greatly they need all we can do for them. Every man's hand is against his brother, surely the land is polluted with blood. Fresh places are pointed out to me where recent conflicts have taken place, but to the Lord do we look who alone can deliver them from their cruel bondage and make them willing to turn to himself.

Sunday, 26. Fresh breeze from the East'd working up between the islands and the main, a good deal of swell. At sunrise North head of Mercury bay on our lee bow. At 7 bore up and stood into the bay, in hopes of seeing our friends, or at least of obtaining shelter against the impending gale. Run nearly to the bottom of the bay but could not discover any coves or bays where we might anchor as marked in the chart, and considerable sea setting in directly on the shore. In our perplexity we sent the boat to reconnoitre and in about an hour she made signal to proceed in, which we accordingly did, and were considerably relieved by finding an entrance close under a point into a fine commodious river capable of receiving any vessel. The country appeared well wooded but no inhabitant, tho marks of former residences. Alas what a dreadful scourge is war even in this remote corner. No sooner do strangers meet than fear is expressed. When shall the glorious day appear when the sword shall be turned into ploughshare and the spear into a pruning hook, and the nations learn war no more. In the afternoon much rain. At sunset heavy clouds rolling over us from the Eastd. every prospect of a rough course night. Exceedingly thankful for the shelter obtained.

Monday, 27. Fine. Wind more from the Southd. A canoe with three men came down, but with much caution. We learnt from them that the Ngapuhi had passed about 3 days since, that Moka had been up the river, and they were now at Tairua, that the advanced guard or first division had arrived at Katekate, and the natives at Tauranga were sitting in two Pas, and had a number of great guns. This news did not correspond with anything we had heard before. At 2 p.m. wind strong from S.W. Weighed and made sail out of the river. A very heavy ground swell setting into the bay owing to the shoalness of the water, being 5 or 6 fathoms. In heavy gales I have little doubt but that the sea breaks across. A most dangerous place for a ship to run into unless willing to enter the river. When out of the bay we obs'd the fires of Ngapuhi on the main and on an island about 15 miles distant. At sunset light winds and variable. At 8 strong breezes from the S.E., and increasing, obliged to bear up with much regret.

Tuesday, 28. Strong breezes, heavy swell from the late gale, hove to under the lee of Mercury isles. At daylight obs'd several dangerous rocks and wind continuing directly against us, we kept on our course, intending to run under Cape Colvel. At sunset modt., with smooth water under the lee of the land.

Wednesday, 29. A quiet night which was of much importance to us, as we stood in need of rest. At daylight close to a number of small islands. Calm and fine. The boys catching fish. In the course of the forenoon a light breeze sprung up from N.W. which inclined us to haul to the Northd. At 4 wind shifted to S.W. and blew smartly which carried us along at a good rate and soon regained our station amongst the islands. At midnight light winds and fine.

Thursday, 1 March. Little wind during the night. At daylight close to the heads of Mercury bay. Calm caught number of snappers. At 10 a breeze from North which carried us by sunset to an island called Wakahau off Tairua where were our natives. They made fires to us and a canoe came off, but a considerable swell rolling in we felt it needful to hasten to and anchor before dark, under the lee of the Island; a snug place, well sheltered. Thankful to be once more fast by the nose.

Friday, 2. Fine. Passed a comfortable night. At daylight hoisted the boat out and went on shore. The boys kindled fires as signals to those on the main. Heard some muskets from the opposite side, but no appearance of boat or Canoe. Close to where we lay were marks of a large party of natives having been here some time since. The boys completing wood and water. At noon heard a great gun at Tairua. We kindled fresh fires and shore and hoisted the Colours on the point of the island. At 4 obs'd a cutter going into Tairua, which we concluded was the one belonging to Pi and Patuone.

Saturday, 3. Fine, at break of day weighed and made sail for Tairua. Wind S.S.W. As we approached the entrance obs'd the canoes coming out and were happy to observe my boat in the midst of them, and the boys all well. All appeared glad to see us. I again took my seat in the boat with considerable pleasure and pulled in with the canoes to Wangamata, a fine river for small vessels. After some refreshments, pulled out to conduct the Cutter in. The country appeared fine, well wooded and watered, but no inhabitant tho multitudes in former days. In the afternoon natives mustered their forces, but did not turn out more than 400 fighting men, this is termed an army. Can anything shew the poverty of the land in point of number, more than this, when we consider the great efforts which have been made to raise this expedition. True we have to add those with Rewarewa and Warepoaka

In the taua attacking the Thames Valley.

, making perhaps in all 600 besides women and children. Their speeches poor. Much distressed to hear that Warerahi and a large party

This is the same taua as that mentioned above.

had passed overland to surprise the Natewatua

After the battle of Te-Ika-a-Ranganui the Ngati-Whatua scattered in small parties, the main group to the ranges near Waitakere, and eventually to the Waikato.

. Had a good deal of conversation with the Chiefs. Titore well disposed. The natives appear to have paid generally external respect to the Sabbath during my absence, not to change their quarters, and they move today in order to sit quietly tomorrow. On Monday they propose to move to Katekate. The vessel

The Taeopa, a cutter.

belonging to Pi arrive in the eveng. He has made a trip to “Tuhua”, Mayor island, to endeavour to surprise the natives there, but were unable to accomplish the deed, from the following circumstance. The vessel put into Hauraki in the Thames, where her object was well known. A messenger from thence passed over to Tauranga giving a description of the vessel belonging to the natives that she had a red streak and 60 natives on board, that the missionaries had one also like her but she had a white streak. Consequently when she appeared off the island they did not go on board, but seeing none but englishmen on board they launched a canoe, but kept at a distance. At length the natives on shore, feeling sure that it was the vessel in question, opend fire upon her which was returned by an Englishman on board with a great gun, but without effect.

Sunday, 4. The natives making a great noise; talking long before daylight on all sides. When in want of my breakfast I was told that fire and water were tapu'd and that none must eat or drink until the oracle was consulted, and that the Tohunga or Priest was in preparation for the ceremony at a short distance. I went and found about 8 chiefs assembled in a retired shady spot, and was at first forbid to approach, but after a little conversation was permitted under the plea of my being a white person. They were all entirely naked, and were fixing sticks about a foot long in the ground in rows, according to the number of canoes, the same was also done according to the chiefs of their opponents. Against each of these were placed two others of the same length, each stick being tied round with a piece of the flax plant. When all was in order we were required to withdraw except an old wretch who had scarcely five pounds of flesh on his bones. In about half an hour the old fellow, with an air of great self-importance, came out and sat down amongst us. He enquired of Tohitapu his dreams, and related his own last night, which are too long to relate. We then with much caution approached the scene of action, where he had been at work and found the sticks in great disorder, as tho a cat had been at play amongst them. About a third of them lay on the ground, by which he would denote those who were to fall in battle. He had one set of sticks for the boat, that is for myself and my boys, we were all safe. In a few minutes after our arrival a large body of the natives, rushed up with a great noise to learn the fate of the expedition, each making enquiries respecting himself with such vociferation and earnestness that it was impossible for any to hear. At length partial silence being obtained the old man began to relate particulars but did not advance far before he was confused and the ceremony was obliged to be begun over again. The sacred spot was consequently cleared of everyone except the old Priest, and we waited his pleasure on the beach. Several enquired if I had had my breakfast and expressed themselves pleased when they learnt I had not. During this interval, I conversed with all around. They appeared to put as implicit faith in what this Tohunga should effect, as they would in the direction of the wind by observing the motion of the clouds. I assured them they would soon abandon such things as our forefathers had done and embrace the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ. Some acquiesced in what I said others did not. At 10 o'clock all being tolerably quiet we rang the bell for service. It had been sent from home in the vessel belonging to Pi and now used for the first time. It was a pleasant sound in this wild place, and in the midst of a still wilder mob. We assembled about 100. Rewa and Te Kohikohi were the only chiefs of note, but all were attentive. After service Rewa told me they should soon believe our message. All were now tired of the expedition.

In the afternoon went and paid a visit round for the drop a word as occasion might offer. Had a pleasing conversation with Temoranga and several with him. Orders given for preparing to move at break of day. Several prognosticating a gale of wind.

Monday, 5. In the course of the night, Tohitapu arose and exclaimed that it was a gale, and was well laughed at. Before day a general bustle, all afloat. As we were pulling down, I was called by some of Titore's people to say he would not move today as he and Tarea had had a row in the course of the night, respecting the weather. Went on shore to Titore considering he only wanted a little persuasion. After a little talking he began to move and we all proceeded on our way. It was a fine morng. Called alongside of Pi and gave him a word of caution how he manoeuvred his craft as he would endanger some trading vessels amongst the natives through his having english men on board. It was only on Sunday last he was at Tuhua. The wind favoured us to Amaru, a delightful spot, where we landed, seven canoes in company to breakfast. All most respectful and drew around to see me writing and to examine my books. We have now arrived within seven miles of Katikati a river which runs up to Tauranga, which is in full view and the fires burning at the Pa. I have many hopes and fears, but a few days will decide this important question. Many talk of taking slaves, but perhaps they do not as yet consider that such a step will be attended with some inconvenience. At noon the tide having ebb'd considerably we proceeded on but did not arrive at the entrance until past two the tide being against us. It was most formidable as the breakers were lifting up their heads in a terrific stile on all sides. Several canoes were ahead of us to lead the way, and by following them we entered safely by passing between the rollers. I was certainly glad when we were past, and am at a loss to conjecture how the natives ventured in. The river appeared very extensive, and will no doubt some future day be an important place. We landed at the beach where Rewarewa and Warepoaka

Rewharewha [Ururoa] and Wharepoaka had returned from the Waikato expedition, Wharerahi and the others being still absent.

had been but a few days since. Ascended the hill which forms the headland of the river with my glass, to reconnoitre at the request of some of the Chiefs. I had a good view of the country and of the two Pas but could not distinguish Rewarewa, the Pas seemed enveloped in smoke. The coast between this and Tauranga forms an island which is very level and from the number of Pas deserted was doubtless formerly thickly inhabited, but now in a most desolate state from the effect of war. Nothing particular transpired during the eveng. All being tired, retired to rest early.

Tuesday, 6. At daylight again afloat to pass on with the flood tide. About 10 o'clock landed at Matakana

The name is now given to the island.

to put up for the day. An old woman belonging to Nate Maru was here caught by Tarea's people who had great news to impart. She stated that great deeds had been done by Warerahi and those with him against natives of Waikato, which I felt persuaded were all false while she was speaking, but it was painful to observe with what greediness her wicked expressions were received. She, however, gave information of Rewarewa being only a few miles distant on the opposite side of the river. In a short time five canoes crossed over to learn the news. We soon heard that the Nate awa had given Rewarewa four or five meetings, and that severe engagements, had taken place, but I was much relieved to learn that none were killed or wounded on either side as they had observed open order. About midnight when all were asleep the camp was alarmed by four guns being discharged close to the beach, and not knowing whether friends or foes all were soon under arms. The sound of the shot those messengers of death flying over our heads waking out of first sleep was truly heart sickening, and represented to my mind the awful state in which these poor creatures are. We however soon learnt that it was an express from Rewarewa. The messenger came forward in silence, which struck a degree of awe over the assembly, who were sitting down, several fires being scattered about to give light, which considerably heightened the effect. The person who now stood before us was a stranger to me. He was a fine looking man, tho wild in his appearance. He stood in silence leaning on the end of his musket, a billhook bright as silver in his belt in front, and a handsome dogskin mat thrown carelessly over his shoulders, and by the light of the fires presented a fine specimen of savage nobility. He first spoke of the expedition of Warerahi against the Natewatua, then of their own interview with the enemy here who had given them a meeting this afternoon. Several rounds were exchanged, but so respectful were they, that no mischief ensued.

Wednesday, 7. At daylight all in motion, launchg. canoes, and strikg. sheds, and talkg. over the news of the night. Paid a general visit, various feelings expressed. My opinion required respecting the proper charge for their great guns, declined the honour. At 10 all embarked in closer order than heretofore, and presented a formidable body. They now displayed their various flags, which they had obtained from the shipping. We were as near as I could count about 80 boats and canoes. About noon arrived at Karopua where Rewarewa was sitting. Took a view of our position. Otumoetai the Pa of Na te awa, 2 miles, several persons outside the Pa, taking a view of the fresh arrival. The Active and the Cutter belonging to Pi, arrived. At low water all our people set off in fighting trim for the professed purpose of foraging on the plantations very near the pa, some few however, went directly towards the pa, to the edge of a stream of water which was deep. Only two of the opposite party were observed for a considerable time who stood the fire of the Ngapuhi very stoutly. After some little time the numbers increased on each side and the parties closed as near as they could the bed of the river separating them. They kept up a brisk fire until dusk and the tide flowing obliged them to retire. None of the chiefs were amongst them, and I could not but marvel that none were hurt on either side. The skirmish lasted about an hour and a half. This affair gave fresh subject for conversation, which lasted nearly through the night. My mind much distressed at the spirit generally manifested. Tohitapu was amongst the worst. I spoke to him upon his deceit, at which he was very angry. I was glad to retire into the tent, and seek relief where alone it is to be found.

Thursday, 8. Sent to speak with Titore who came immediately, but did not afford much satisfaction. He seemed well disposed himself but spoke of the determination of others. However I was glad to hear the chiefs generally speaking upon these things. In the afternoon as I was going on board the Active I spoke to Titore to prevent any repetition of proceedings of last eveng. He promised that all should be quiet. I therefore left with satisfaction. It was a considerable relief to be again in civil society for a short time. In the eveng. returned to the camp, all quiet.

Friday, 9. Paid visit round. All very civil, most expressed themselves for peace. Rewarewa reserved. Mr. Kemp and Cap. Wright came on shore, accompanied them round the camp. At high water, the flotilla put out into deep water, ready for movement in the night. After sunset, many speeches, but no apparent conclusion come to. About 9 o'clock alarm given of two men

It was a common practice for captives of former expeditions to join new expeditions of their captors as warriors, as perhaps the only means of regaining self-respect. These two men were obviously captives from Tauranga, or perhaps their allies, taken at an earlier date.

having gone over to the enemy, both of them belonging to this part of the island, each had taken a musket and catouch box. This circumstance caused great confusion and quarrelling in one of the parties which threatened to be serious until some of the leading men came forward and put matters quiet.

Saturday, 10. After midnight orders given to embark which was done with great disorder and noise. It being low water, we frequently got aground. This time was chosen for protection from the fire of the enemy, as we had to pass up the river where the engagement had taken place yesterday eveng. tho by this act they greatly exposed themselves, in consequence of the continual noise which they made. Had the enemy acted with any thought and that courage known to europeans they might have planted themselves within 200 yards of the canoes and thrown all into confusion, but they were savages and consequently their movements less destructive. When all well afloat, we presented quite an armament, the surface of the river appeared covered; our force multiplied from the face of the country about 2 miles distant in the rear being all on fire, which illuminated the sky and was again reflected upon the water, so that we appeared, taking into connection the desires of the people and the object on which they were bent, issuing as it were from the infernal regions. We landed in the rear of the Pa and in a few minutes about 300 lights were in motion, and gave the appearance of a large town. I felt it was more prudent to remain in my boat until morning, not knowing how near the enemy might be, nor wishing to be run over by our people. At daylight there was a general movement towards the Pa, all perfectly naked except here and there one with a shirt on or a handkerchief round his waist, and a catouch box buckled round before and behind close under the arms, or round the loins. The Nateawa were out to receive them, and firing soon commenced on both sides. I ascended to the summit of an old pa, from whence with the aid of my glass, I had a clear view of their movements, and soon obs'd Ngapuhi driven out of some bushes where they had taken up their station and Nateawa shewed in considerable numbers in battle array. The firing lasted I think three hours and various reports were brought of the killed and wounded. They then returned to the camp having expended all their ammunition, and bringing with them one killed and a second who had been struck on the catouch box which was buckled round his waist by which he was preserved. I was struck with horror to observe the carelessness of all particularly of the women and children. The firing ceased and was succeeded by the clamour of Ngapuhi relating their great deeds during the action. Retired to my tent overwhelmed with the transactions of the morning. About 2 Messrs. Kemp and Fairburn came on shore, and after some conversation determined to take up my abode on board the Active, considering that our counsel was rejected on every point of view, and that they had better now be left a little to themselves. On going out of the tent, I was much surprised to observe the enemy in possession of the heights about ½ a mile distant firing down upon some wild fellows, who were exchanging shots with them in full view of our whole party, occasionally dancing, brandishing their muskets in defiance. As we passed down to the boat several of the chiefs sat by the canoes and appeared crestfallen. None spoke but Moka who desired we would not attempt to dress the wounds of their enemy. I told him all were our friends through the island and would all receive like attention from us. Some of the Nateawa were on the side of the river as we passed but none attempted to molest us, being fully aware of our object in being amongst them.

In what a wretched state is this people, sitting in darkness and the shadow of death, destitute of every hope either in this world or the world to come, not knowing who are friends or foes but daily dreading an attack from some unknown quarter. Many have expressed to me during our present expedition, how gladly would they receive a party of soldiers amongst them to preserve peace through the land. We trust however tho dark and dreary as the prospect is at present that the Lord will cause this to work for their good and his glory. It is he alone who maketh wars to cease unto the end of the earth. He breaketh the bow and cutteth the spear in sunder.

Sunday, 11. All remained quiet through the day. Messrs. Kemp and Fairburn went on shore to the Pa. I held service with the natives on board in the morng. and english service in the afternoon. In the eveng. guns occasionally fired on each side as indicative of their intention for tomorrow. The Karere arrived in the afternoon from Wangamata.

Monday, 12. The firing continued through the night, but at daylight Ngapuhi drew out on all sides, and pressed close upon the Pa. I looked to the Lord for help that he might spare this people for they knew not what they did. At one time our people were within 200 yards of the fence of the Pa. About 40 or 50 took up a strong position amongst some bushes and long grass, but were soon dislodged by Nateawa tho under great disadvantage, as the one party lay concealed while their opponents were completely exposed. The most brisk part of the action took place in full view of the vessel. Number of children from the Pa were out digging up the shot as they fell about them. Poor things I trembled for all and my soul was cast down within me when I reflected upon the unjustness of the war, speakg. after the manner of men, and to be the act of those natives with whom we have been so long in connection, and on whose account so many thousands of pounds have been expended, but the race is not to the swift nor the battle to the strong. The Lord will yet be exalted amongst the heathen, he will be exalted in the earth. After dinner an English man came on board from the Pa

This could have been any one of the four pakehas then trading there, viz., Scott, Montefiore, Nicholas and Farrar [or Farrow?].

, with a Chief, to see if something could not be done to establish peace, but the proposal must be made by Ngapuhi. We learnt that four belonging to the Pa were wounded but not seriously. Mr. Kemp and I went to the Camp intending to sleep there, that we might learn their intentions, but they seemed so abominably disposed and to reject all that we could say that we thought it best to return on board, which we did greatly dejected in mind at the desperate wickedness of our people. It appeared that only one of the Ngapuhi was wounded though seriously.

Tuesday, 13. All appeared quiet this morng. and we were in hopes that it would continue so. After breakfast Mr. Fairburn and I went to the Pa to see Kiaroa, who had come down during the morng. with his people to join those in the Pa. We were received most graciously. It was distressing to reflect what judgements awaited all. There were multitudes of interesting children. We took a survey of the works, which for a native affair is well constructed. While here we observed the Ngapuhi approaching, and learnt that a young woman had just been wounded in the arm. We felt it needful to take our departure, the contending parties not being at any great distance from each other. When on board we obs'd some close struggles on the beach. The firing continued more or less upwards of 2 hours, and we saw two persons belonging to the Pa carried off apparently dead. The Fairy Cutter arrived from Maketu. A European

Tapsel of Maketu.

came on board and said he had come to see if Ngapuhi would accept the services of the Rotorua natives

A party of Arawa had come down under the influence of Tapsel to assist Ngapuhi, but some took sides with Ngaiterangi.

against Nateawa. He spoke of the cutting up of these poor creatures with apparent relish, as tho he would join the natives in their savage repast. A schr. arrived and anchored at some distance. Sent the boat to the Pa to enquire the loss, answer 4 killed and 3 mortally wounded. Could not learn what the Ngapuhi had suffered. The firing did not cease until dusk. A boat came alongside from the Ngapuhi and informed us that 1 was killed and some wounded. The european who came in the boat expressed his intention of supplying Ngapuhi with arms and ammunition as much as they required on trust. His expressions were disgusting and we were relieved by his departure.

Wednesday, 14. Calm, clear night. The natives in the Pa pouring forth bitter crys and lamentations, bewailing their loss, and a gun occ'ly fired, adding to the solemnity of the scene. At break of day two canoes came from Ngapuhi alongside the Fairy for some great guns and small arms ammunition &c., &c. The Pa opened fire upon them but the shot fell short. The natives seemed to scowl upon us, knowing that we disapproved of their proceedings. Titore being amongst them we sent the boat for him. He was friendly but did not give us any hope, nor could we indeed feel any ourselves after hearing and seeing all we had last night and this morng. After breakfast we paid a visit to the Pa but did not remain long. The natives appeared in better spirits than I expected, endeavoured to induce some boys to accompany us to the Bay of Islands, but they were afraid, not being able to judge for themselves. In the afternoon Mr. Kemp and I went to the Ngapuhi. Some were as usual others would not speak and appeared quite intoxicated with the fresh supplies they had obtained from the Fairy. We were determined to ascertain their real disposition with respect to Nateawa. Every voice was for war, every wicked feeling seemed to be let loose. About 8 o'clock they commenced their speeches, but all the same tone. Tohitapu was as wicked as anyone. One of the chiefs, belonging to the Waimate, named Tinana, said that we had been giving their description to Nateawa in order to pick them off; but he was soon put down.

Thursday, 15. Passed a sleepless night, the awful state of the people weighed much upon our spirits. Our fears were great on behalf of Nateawa. Ngapuhi had the advantage in experience. How little do the natives know their best friends and their best interest. We concluded that our efforts were now come to a close amongst these people and that it would be best to return home as soon as possible. We accordingly passed through the camp and returned on board. After breakfast hoisted in my boat and prepared for sea as soon as the winds and tides should permit. Several natives on board from the Pa, amongst whom was Kiaroa. They did not appear to suffer as much as we did, but spoke of their hope that we should soon return, and that some missionaries should be sent to their place, but I fear there is not hope that they will be able to oppose the great force brought against them, supported as their enemy is by the aid influence and superior knowledge of the European who is in close connection with them.

In the eveng. being high water, weighed and made sail. The wind directly in. Passed safely over various banks, but when close to the great hill which forms the south head the vessel missed stays owing to the swell caused by the ebb tide and there appeared every prospect of going on the rocks, which was alone prevented by letting go the anchor, and taking in the sail. Everyone was much alarmed and the sea breaking on all sides, but as the tide was setting to windward there was no strain upon the cable. In about an hour the sea subsided. We again weighed, and in a short time, were out of all difficulties.

Friday, 16. Fine. Wind directly against us. White Island East about 15 miles at day light. At sunset passed close to the south end of Mayor island. A musket fired from the shore. Tauranga on the lee quarter. Painful feelings respective its inhabitants.

Saturday, 17. Fine, wind more favourable. At 8 o'clock passed close to leeward of The Aldermen. At sunset close to the south end of Barrier island, appearance of rough night.

Sunday, 18. Wind scant, a good deal of swell. At 8 o'clock passing between the Poor Knights. At 4.30 rounded Cape Brett, and at 8 landed unperceived at Paihia, and with inexpressible delight and gratitude found all well.

Monday, 19. Felt very weary in body, and much distress of mind at the present state of things in this land. All is dark, dreary and dire confusion. By vessels from the Southd. we hear of nothing but war and blood shed, of the assemblies of large bodies of natives armed with muskets gone forth utterly to annihilate all whom they may meet, but we have this assurance—the Lord is faithful, he cannot err. It is a season which demands earnest and constant prayer of the church on behalf of the nations of the earth, that they may be delivered from the chains of darkness. The great struggle seems to be at hand here and most seem to be aware of it and gazing in anxious expectation for the result. Should Ngapuhi persevere in fighting, should they disregard our message, then all will be involved in wars. Again should they be disposed to hear, then we may expect many openings for the introduction of the Gospel in various parts of the island. O Lord make bare thine arm and come and help us.

Friday, 23. Much recovered since my return. The general opinion here that it would be desirable to pay the natives a visit at Tauranga for a few days, previous to the sailing of the Active for the Colony, to see in what temper of mind they may be in at present.

Sunday, 25. Fine. Thirteen boats' crews and various officers of the Shipping at Service. Chapel very full. In the afternoon went to Otuiho, saw Hihi and Pomare, attentive and thoughtful.

Monday, 26. Messrs. Kemp and Hobbs arrived from the Kerikeri. At sunset, Mr. Fairburn and I went on board the Active; weighed and sailed for Tauranga. At 8 o'clock spoke a ship working in but she would not shorten sail, could not learn from whence she was.

Tuesday, 27. Wind strong from S.S.E. At 10 bore up for the Bay. At sunset wind shifted from the westd. put about and stood to the Southd., strong wind through the night.

Wednesday, 28. Strong breezes. Noon wind S.E., stood in shore.

Thursday, 29. Aotea 4 miles at daylight. At sunset close to the last of the islands towards Tauranga. Little wind. At 8, heavy squall, shortened sail.

Friday, 30. The wind heavy till near morng. At day light Mayor Island S.W. 6 miles. Modt. weather, made sail, wind S.W. At 3 p.m. strong breezes. Sunset, wind same. Shortened sail apprehensive of being driven off the land. Obs'd the fires near Tauranga. Maunganui about 6 miles to windward.

Saturday, 31. Clear sky but wind occasionally very heavy. Standg. off and on through the night to keep our ground. At daylight made sail but did not save the tide. At 9 o'clock came to an anchor close to leeward of Maunganui. Did not observe any fires this morng. Cap. Wright and Mr. Fairburn went on shore to reconnoitre. While they were away Cap. Williamson and two other Europeans came off in a canoe, from whom we learnt that Ngapuhi had shifted quarters and were on the opposite of the river to Maungatapu, that several skirmishes had taken place and some few killed and wounded on both sides. The Rotorua natives had come forward, and divided themselves between Ngapuhi and Nateawa. Also that the New Zealander Schr. had been in, when a large party of Ngapuhi had fired upon her for a considerable time from the shore, which was returned by the schooner with her great guns, not known whether any killed or wounded. At 2 p.m. the flood tide making in, we weighed and made sail and worked into the harbour. No one from Ngapuhi came near us.

Sunday, 1 April. At sunrise upwards of a dozen canoes obs. pulling towards us from Ngapuhi full of men. They landed some distance from us and came running until they came abreast of us, each with his musket. We hoisted a white flag, but they were not satisfied what vessel it was until they hailed us, when they set up a haka and called us to go on shore and see them. We were rec'd by them in a very friendly manner. They told us they had thought we were the schr. which they engaged ten days since and had now come to take her and had brought six great guns. They related their proceedings during our absence and appeared glad to see us. Titore with 3 canoes remained with us until the tide flowed, for the purpose of conducting us up the river to the Camp. The others returned immediately. At 10 o'clock held service on board. In the afternoon we went up the river by ourselves, the canoes going in another direction, having observed some men on an island near us. We met a canoe coming to us in which were the principal chiefs of Ngapuhi. They were very friendly and returned with us. Tohitapu with considerable self-importance related their great deeds, magnifying the loss of the enemy. We passed through the camp and were thankful to the God of all mercies for the great change in the tone of this people, from what it was when last amongst them. Many shook their heads signifying they were tired, and others complained of want of food. Their attempts had failed. They found that their opponents were not backward to meet them, and their great guns had been brought into action but of no use. They had dragged them close to the Pa two days after we sailed for the bay and were firing nearly the whole day without any effect, but had sustained some loss themselves, and the two guns belonging to Moka had nearly fallen into the enemy's hands. News just arrived. A large reinforcement at Otumoetai from Waikato. We felt much encouraged to hope that peace might yet be established. We took our departure at dusk, with the understanding that we should return in the morng. all exceedingly civil.

Monday, 2. In the afternoon, Mr. Fairburn and I went to Ngapuhi. Paid a visit to all, many appeared desirous to return but others obstinately bent on remaining. Pitched my tent close to Tohitapu, who was very polite.

Tuesday, 3. At break of day firing commenced by natives of Rotorua upon Nateawa, but did not long continue as it came on to rain. Tarea sent a message for us to go to the Pa, previous to which we called upon the various chiefs to endeavour to learn their ideas. Tohitapu expressed his desire to return with us. All complaining of want of food but we could not obtain anything satisfactory. On approaching the Pa multitudes came to meet us. All appeared in good spirits disposed either for peace or war. Our old friends Kiaroa, and Kaiawa, spoke with considerable spirit, they were willing for peace but prepared for war. We took a view of the fortifications which were stronger than those of Otumoetai.

Wednesday, 4. In the afternoon returned on board. Received a letter from Mr. Montesrior

Montefiore. There were two men of this name trading in New Zealand at this time; J. Israel Montefiore who established himself as a merchant in Kororareka and later in Auckland, and Joseph Barrow Montefiore who came to New Zealand in 1830 with the intention of establishing trading stations throughout the country. He visited Kapiti and was on board the Elizabeth when Tamaiharanui, the captured Akaroa chief, was finally handed over to Te Rauparaha. [McNab, H.R.N.Z., pp580–2] It was probably J. Israel Montefiore who was at Otumoetai at this time.

a resident at Otumoetai requesting that his property consisiting of muskets, powder, &c., &c., might be received on board as he considered it in danger.

Thursday, 5. After breakfast Mr. Fairburn and I went to Otumoetai, returned answer to Mr. Montesrior, that we could give any or all of them a passage to the Bay of Islands and receive any property excepting arms and ammunition. Had short interview with the natives and proceeded on to the Camp of Ngapuhi. We had not been long here before seven Canoes pulled up from Otumoetai to challenge Ngapuhi, and remained for some time pulling in defiance. Titore's boat pulled towards them and a few shots were exchanged. At length some canoes were launched and gave chase to the enemy. We remained some time in conversation with Rewa and others. Considerable bustle while here, everyone under arms, lest the people from the Pa Maungatapu should cross over, as the Ngapuhi were divided. Returned on board about 3 o'clock. The two parties firing at each other at long range on the beach opposite the vessel. The Ngapuhi it appears had chased Ngateawa in all directions and tho not more than 200 had driven them up close to the Pa. They afterwards retired gradually and took up their position about 1½ miles from the Pa, and detached from the main body. This will doubtless be regarded by all as a decided victory tho hi all probability none were hurt on either side. At 7 a canoe came off from Otumoetai with an English man wishing for a passage to the Bay of Islands. From him we learnt that one or two of Nateawa were slightly hurt. The fires of Ngapuhi burning bright in full view of the Pa, expressive of their intention for the morng. How feeble the judgement of man in reasoning on the dealings of God.

Friday, 6. Early this morng. Mr. Fairburn and I pulled up to Ngapuhi and were not much surprised to learn that Tohitapu had declined going with us to the Bay of Islands. Called upon him, he stated the objections of the Chiefs to his leaving them. He was very civil, nay even kind, desiring that we would not spare his kumara when we should arrive. We took leave of all regretting that they retained dispositions to war, but pleased at their general behaviour. They were a good deal elated at transactions of yesterday. All enquired when we should return and when told that the Active would proceed to Sydney they desired that Karere might come and meet them. Returned on board by noon and as the wind was East we determined to proceed to the Bay of Islands immediately. As it was now high water we weighed and made sail, but were considerably baffled under the lee of Maunganui, the eddy wind catching us first on one side then on the other put us in imminent danger of running on shore. The entrance was narrow on our right, and a bank on our left, with a head sea caused by the tide now setting out strong. As we drew from under the high land the wind was more steady, and the tide assisting us, were enabled by a few tacks to get well clear of the land, tho we much regretted that we had moved from our anchorage, as we found the wind stronger than we had expected, and not so fair for us, being E.N.E. but we could not run in again. Were obliged to haul close to the Starbd. tack, and carry all possible sail, to endeavour to clear the Aldermen. Sunset, cloudy, symptoms of a gale. At 8 passed close to leeward of the Aldermen, and stood on for the Mercury isles, had great apprehensions that we could not weather, the sea getting up. At 11 saw the islands close to leeward. Wore and stood to the Southd. a rough course night. Waited anxiously for the morning, that we might run in amongst the islands.

Saturday, 7. Strong breezes and squally. Wind the same. Could not sleep, fearing that we might fall to leeward, and not find shelter in any place. At daybreak Mercury bay on the lee beam. The course through the islands where we wished to anchor N.W. wore and stood between them; wind free. Occasionally so thick that we could not see a ¼ mile round us. As we passed along the weather cleared up a little and the wind being fair it was concluded most advisable to proceed on to “Aotea”, the Great Barrier island, as there were two good anchorages known. As we drew under the land the gusts were so violent that we feared that either the masts or yards would go. The vessel became unmanageable and it was with many painful feelings we were necessitated to take in sail and let the vessel drift, which we soon found to be very considerable. As the darkness set in so also did our fears and apprehensions grow upon us. We could not keep the weather shore, what were we to expect from a lee one. The wind and rain now increased and brought before us all the horrors of Shipwreck in its worst form. It was an iron bound coast, with rocks and small islands scattered up and down. Our personal fears were not great, but we had wives and children, who in all probability might never learn our fate. Eleven hours night, a painful thought. Should we escape the fury of the sea, and obtain a landing, what then? There is no christian hand to befriend us, none from whom we could obtain relief. Should any natives be near us, they would but add to our distress. But oh my God, thou has been my refuge in distress, my help in time of need. It is thou only whom winds and seas obey.

Saturday night. We frequently spoke during the hour of prayer at our respective settlements, and reminded each other of their blessed employment. They little thought of our distress, but would be mindful of us; this supported us much.

Sunday, 8. A most anxious and agonising night. The gale very severe accompanied with heavy rain, and so unusually thick we could not see the length of the vessel. The wind shifted in the course of the night to North. Spent the whole night in prayer to the Lord for His protecting care. Unable to close my eyes, though up the whole of last night. Anxiously counting the lingering moments as they passed away, watching for the morng. Oh it was a dreary night. My soul much refreshed and kept alive by reflecting upon the texts of the day, contained in a sweet little book sent out by some christian friends, termed Daily Food for Christians, both for this day and yesterday. As I felt it most applicable, I will even add it, as it stands on the little page:

Jerh. 17.7 Biessed is the man who trusteth in the Lord, and whose hope the Lord is.

Begone unbelief, my Savour is near And for my relief will surely appear By faith let me wrestle and He will perform With Christ in the vessel I smile at the storm.

Cursed be the man that trusteth in man, and maketh flesh his arm, and whose heart departeth from the Lord. Jerh. 17.5.

At first dawn of day Mr. Fairburn and I were up to discover where we were and as the light came on, could perceive the dark hazy gloom of high land close on the lee beam, as the King of Terrors frowning upon us as he sat, brooding over the storm, ready to snatch his victims. We wore in haste and made sail under the impression that it was Cape Colvel, but soon perceived that it was the north head of Port Charles, in which there is no shelter. Stood on under all possible sail to endeavour to weather the point which presented itself for a few moments on our lee bow, but despairing of this, as the sea was setting us fast to leeward, we determined to try and stay her, as the only alternative, there not being room to wear. She had missed stays several times yesterday by which circumstances we were brought into the present situation. Every countenance spoke alarm, and it was declared impossible to save her. But what is impossible with man is possible with God.

Tho seriously impressed with our great danger I felt a strong faith or secret conviction, that the Lord would shew Himself a refuge and strength in this our time of need.

We watched a smooth of the sea to put the helm down, and thanks be to the Lord at that interval it was particularly so, and she came round in a surprising manner, though to all human appearance it was impossible she could weather the land, owing to the heavy sea which was running. We settled fast down upon some frightful rocks which were close to leeward and soon brought them in our wake, but after a short time we were relieved by perceiving that we gradually drew off shore. We stood on wishg. to regain the islands to windward of Mercury Bay but still the weather was so very thick we could scarcely see the vessel's length around her. After standing with intense earnestness looking out, for our danger was not yet over, land was announced on the lee bow, close to us, which we perceived was the desirable point. We bore up in haste and were soon in smooth water under the lee of the Mercury islands and discovered what we had never before seen tho often in this neighbourhood a commodious bay in which we anchored about 10 o'clock, to the unspeakable relief of our minds and bodies. At 6 p.m. we all assembled in the Cabin to offer up prayer and praise to the God of all mercies for our late deliverance, every one being too weary to attend earlier.

On reflecting on the deliverance of the past night and this morng. my soul is overpowered with gratitude to the Lord our Shepherd. Who can declare our danger or the protecting arm of the Almighty. We had sought for shelter in a known harbour but were prevented from obtaining it, tho close at the entrance and lay exposed during a long night to danger on all sides. Land was around us, and our chart incorrect, the weather so thick that we could not perceive land until close upon it, but at the moment when it became needful for us to act, the day dawned, our danger at that interval was pointed out by a break in the haze, and we were enabled to do what alone could save us. The Captain commanded to wear, which would have been inevitable destruction. This was overruled, and she was thrown in stays as the last and only resort.

Oh may it be a Sabbath long to be remembered with gratitude and love. Our lives have this day been given afresh to us and to our families. The thought is overwhelming, what would have been their state had it pleased the Lord thus to have removed us from them, for scarcely would it have been possible that any should have been spared to tell the mournful tale. To his name may we ascribe all praise and dedicate our services afresh to him.

Monday, 9. A strong gale through the night from N.W. Let go the second anchor. Greatly relieved by a good night's rest.

Tuesday, 10. Mod and fine. Wind S.S.W. At 7 weighed and made sail and worked out of our bay of refuge, with thankful hearts for the protection afforded to us while here from the raging of the tempest, and for the wind now favourable for our return home. While here we discovered a safe and beautiful harbour in which the Active could run and be sheltered from every wind, a place which may hereafter prove of great importance. Passed outside Aotea, and at 11 were close to leeward of the Poor Knights.

Wednesday, 11. At sunrise Bay of Islands open to view, wind against us. Worked up by the afternoon, and were thankful to learn that all were well. The Sisters, Cap. Duke, in the Bay from England with letters, also Mr. Mathews

Joseph Matthews was appointed assistant-chaplain on a convict ship to Sydney in 1831. He came to New Zealand as a catechist, arriving in Paihia on 26 March 1832, and next year married the eldest daughter of Richard Davis. He assisted Puckey to establish the Kaitaia station where he served for many years. He was ordained priest in 1859 and died on 3 November 1895. [S. C. and L. J. Matthews, Matthews of Kaitaia.]

from the Colony, to join the Mission.

Sunday, 13 May. I this morng. baptised an interesting youth by the name of Hemi, he has long lived in the Settlement, and has always conducted himself with great propriety. He is highly connected and may prove of great assistance in the Mission. I was much affected with the solemnity of the season, and the beauties of the service. Many strangers were present both European and native.

Monday, 14. The Chiefs Hiamoe and Pukututu

Tamati Pukututu, a chief of the Te-o-te-Hawata tribe, whose pa was situated on the Kawakawa River. He fought on the Government side in the rebellion of 1845–6.

came from the Kauakaua to request some of us to go up to attend the Hahunga there, the feast which takes place at the removal of the bones of the dead. We consented to go up in the morng. tho it would be attended with loss of time and inconvenience, still it affords us an opportunity of speaking, tho not viewed by us as the most favourable, as at these seasons their minds are more particularly filled with folly and wickedness, and much noise and confusion prevails for many days without intermission. In the evening our natives in high bustle makg preparation for the morng.

Tuesday, 15. At 4 Mr. Brown and I left the beach with two boats and one canoe for the Kauakaua. We landed at break of day. Thick foggy weather, everything wet and dirty. Had prayers with our natives and took breakfast, before we joined the multitude. The ceremony had commenced some time previous to our arrival. The speeches poor. Rawiri and several of our leading youths delivered their sentiments among the rest. All very attentive in their supplies of food cooked and uncooked. In the afternoon, i turia te ngaratau the forces were assembled to Haka. Returned home by 8 in the evening. The boats were loaded with kumara. Much wearied with the noise of the people. About 3000 baskets of food were provided, besides pigs, and one Cow in calf, which had been shot for the occasion, three or four days before, and had now become highly flavoured.

Wednesday, 16. The boys preparing a Wata, a high stand for native food, about 16ft. long and 10 wide, 16ft. from the ground, to preserve it from the English rats which are now beginning to infest all parts of the land having found their way by means of the shipping. The natives have expressed considerable alarm and have brought this forward as another evidence of the anger of Atua for not observing more rigidly their religious ceremonies. Thus we find the great adversary meets us at every point and disputes every inch of the ground, attributing all evil to the presence of the Missionaries. But the Lord he is our God, our shield and strength.

Thursday, 17. Again required to comply with the request of some of our friends to pay a visit to Wangai to attend a Hahungu. Nothing particularly interesting. 30 baskets of Kumara brought forward for our party, which is always expected to be carried away. These feasts take place at this season of the year, called the Ngahuru, or tenth month, when the harvest of Kumara is gathered in and they cease to count the months until the time of planting again comes round.

Friday, 18. Mrs. W. and I with our two eldest children crossed over to the Wahapu to see Mr. and Mrs. Mair, Cap. and Mrs. Powditch

Captain William Powditch commanded the Royal George which brought Sir Thomas Brisbane to New South Wales. He lived for a time at Valparaiso and came to New Zealand as commander of the brig Bee. From early 1831 till late in 1832 he was in partnership with Gilbert Mair at Wahapu. While there he was appointed postmaster, being the first postmaster in New Zealand. Between 1835 and 1837 he purchased over 4,000 acres of land round Whangaroa Harbour. He took a prominent part in public affairs, and, after his removal to Auckland in the 'forties, served periods on the Auckland Municipal Council and the Auckland Provincial Council of which he was Speaker from 1857–65. [Anderson and Petersen, The Mair Family, p304.]

, a point of duty needful to observe, where it can be done. A party of natives landed from the Thames

This illustrates one of the puzzling Maori customs that enemies felt free to exchange visits of this kind.

, held communication with them. They enquire why the Missionaries are all congregated in this neighbourhood, when the whole land is without any one.

Saturday, 19. In the afternoon Mr. Brown and I went over to see Mrs. Wright and family in the absence of Cap. W., and brought them to Mr. B's to remain till Monday.

Sunday, 20. After service Mr. Brown and I went up to Otuihu The natives from the Thames were very attentive and appeared much interested with what they heard and asked many questions, those of the Pa very careless.

Monday, 21. The main chimney of my house condemned for its bad qualities in not carrying the smoke tho it had been erected by a professional man. Made preparation for taking it down. Boys mixing mortar. In the eveng. many of the natives came as usual to enquire after truth. Tho these assemblies frequently occur when we are weary with the fatigues of the day, still it is impossible to refuse their solicitations. I have known them often waiting for hours with a desire of having a few words from us.

Tuesday, 22. After dinner commenced the work of demolition upon the chimney and enveloped in dust until long after dusk. Levelled it to the ground. Boys in high spirits, this work of destruction being agreeable to their natures.

Wednesday, 23. Commenced rebuilding. In the eveng. held a meeting with some of the natives.

Thursday, 24. Building my chimney, the erecting not so expeditious as pulling down. Hard work. Severe headache from the perpetual motion of the head. Potahi died, a little girl we had brought from Rotorua, who had always been a sickly child.

Friday, 25. Carried my chimney close up; trying to the back; every appearance of a gale.

Saturday, 26. Occasional rain. Concluded my work in the midst of a heavy squall with joyful hope of being free from smoke.

Sunday, 27. Heavy squalls of wind and rain; could not move from the settlement.

Monday, 28. I married this morng. Hemi and Hera two baptised natives living with Mr. Fairburn. Employed plastering back room. At work till 8 laying hearth in front room, dust and dirt all day.

Tuesday, 29. Plastering both rooms, not yet complete.

Wednesday, 30. Mr. Davis from Waimate to go to Kauakaua. He and my brother went up in little boat to examine some land in dispute. Met several of our natives in the eveng. much pleased with them.

Thursday, 31. Finished in front room.

Sunday, 3 June. Squally with heavy rain. No moving from home.

Monday, 4. Heavy gale through the night. In the afternoon cleared off. Messrs. Kemp and King arrived. Held the prayer meeting. Very gratifying tho but two or three to approach with the assembled multitudes in Europe and throughout the world, around our Father's throne in behalf of the Heathen nations.

Tuesday, 5. Squally with heavy showers of rain. Messrs. King and Kemp with their children departed. Messrs. Clarke and Davis arrived from the Waimate. Very wet.

Wednesday, 6. The Waimate party departed at noon. Showers not heavy.

Thursday, 7. The boys commenced upon the school house clearing away for repairs and to finish off. News that Kawiti was going to Waikato

Kawiti and Pomare sailed late in June and returned in August.

with a large party to obtain satisfaction for Rangituke, who was killed by those natives some years since. Matiu and others came in the eveng.

Friday, 8. Cloudy and calm, appearance of a gale. Boys at school. Several kept without breakfast for ill behaviour, which I hope will have a good effect.

Saturday, 9. Strong breezes and cloudy, no prospect of going to Rangihoua. Noon rain, which increased to gale by sunset.

Sunday, 10. Heavy showers occasionally, no moving out.

Monday, 11. Boys commenced lathg. at Mr. Brown's house, the school house.

Tuesday, 12. Boys lathg. at school house and preparing lime for same.

Wednesday, 13. Lathg. and mixing mortar.

Thursday, 14. Natives in the evening, a good number.

Friday, 15. Boys at the school house plastering.

Saturday, 16. Myself occup'd all day with the boys at School house plastering. Active returned from Hokianga with a cargo of timber.

Sunday, 17. Fine. In the midst of the Sermon put into great commotion by a party of Na te Hine who landed unobserved and had commenced stripping the houses belonging to Mr. Fairburn's boys in consequence of the marriage of Hemi and Hera. Everybody obliged to turn out for a general scuffle. Launched two boats to search the canoes afloat, recovered everything excepting a gown, our boys took a catouch box from them. The victory on our side. The party much ashamed and returned quietly home. This is the 4th disturbance, wherein the natives have watched the opportunity when we have been engaged in our service. Much troubled through the day by the outrage of the morning.

Monday, 18. Heavy shower, prevented from going to the Waimate. In the afternoon the ship Offley arrived. Mr. Mair saw letters for us, but the Captain would not let them come. Sent Mr. Puckey off with a note to the Captain, but unsuccessful. He was desired to call in the morning. Boys at work on Mr. Brown's house.

Tuesday, 19. Fine. The ship's boat brought the letters. The only intelligence to us, the death of our good Mother. My boys as yesterday.

Thursday, 21. Cloudy. Urumihia

Urumihia, the daughter of Te Rauroha, chief of Ngati-Paoa, who was at the Totara pa in the Thames when it was captured by Hongi in 1821. She was captured and taken to the Bay of Islands, where she remained for several years before she was permitted to return to the Thames. [Wilson, Te Waharoa, p8.]

and party landed on her way to the Thames. All had much to say as to the probable time of our going down to see them, very many solicitations. A good deal of crying with their relatives in the settlement.

Friday, 22. Most tempestuous night with torrents of rain. Urumihia's canoes upset and all their sea stock of provisions lost. The Fairy Cutter arrived from the Southd. brought word that there was no fighting, but quarrelling among the Ngapuhi. Many of their Canoes lost; but little food, and talking of coming back

Titore and his taua were accomplishing very little at Tauranga. They began to return in July, and the missionaries held a service of thanksgiving on 8 August.

. I hope this may be indeed the case; that they are at length wearied out, and that they may return more humbled.

Saturday, 23. Heard that the natives up the river were in a state of readiness to move to Waikato. At noon passed on to Rangihoua. New Settlement in prosperous state as respects the two houses, the situation far better than the present spot. Mr. Shepherd and his family in their new dwelling.

Sunday, 24. Fine. Scanty congregation. Service morng. and eveng. Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd and family came over land from Tepuna. Long walk. In the eveng. returned to Paihia.

Monday, 25. Fine. Went to Utuihu to see Pomare, to endeavour if possible to deter him from his purpose of going to Waikato with the expedition. He was civil but indifferent whether he went or staid. The natives spoke of their having been makutud, bewitched by us and consequently they were all dying. This has very frequently been mentioned. How wretched is their state by nature, that thus they should reject the only hand extended for their relief.

Tuesday, 26. Boys repairing the front of the Chapel. They are now acquiring the capability of executing this work with little of our attention, in comparison with what they used to require. A Bark arrived from the Southd. by which we rec'd letters from the Colony. Heard also that 10 Canoes had sailed from Wangari against Waikato

This is part of the taua of Kawiti and Pomare referred to in the journal entry, 7 June 1832.

. In the eveng. study full of natives to converse. It is very refreshing after a wearisome day to meet with these our adopted children, to speak upon the things which relate to their eternal peace, for we know they must possess a good share of sincerity to induce them thus to assemble together after the work of the day.

Wednesday, 27. Koropu repairing the front of the Chapel. Mr. Yate arrived from the Waimate. A sailor died at Kororarika belonging to a ship lying there. Our native Rawiri had on Sunday last found out this poor fellow, who was laying sick in one of the native houses, and was observed praying with him. The sailor could not in all probability understand a word of what was said, but Rawiri prayed in the only language he knew, and to the Lord of Heaven and earth, to the disposer of all events. It was a pleasing circumstance for it was done in much simplicity.

Thursday, 28. Wind from N.N.E., prevented going to the Kerikeri, by 10 o'clock it blew a gale which continued all day accompanied with rain. In the eveng. cleared up, wind shifted to the Westd.

Friday, 29. Fine strong wind. Took Miss Williams and the children to the Kerikeri. Squally with rain in the eveng. Could not return home.

Saturday, 30. Ret'd home by noon. Our work at the Chapel nearly spoiled as the Native was left to himself. Obliged to go myself and finish off.

Sunday, 1 July. Kaipau baptised. He was the first lad who attended upon us on our landing in this settlement, a poor little dirty wretched object but now a fine youth well clad in blankets and in possession of a plantation, a house and a wife and I trust above all a new heart. He has undergone strict scrutiny.

Monday, 2. Before daylight in motion towards the Kerikeri, arrived about 11 o'clock. After dinner commenced business. In the eveng. our monthly prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 3. At close business. Sat till 11 p.m.

Wednesday, 4. Finished business by 3 p.m. and arrived at home at 7 o'clock.

Thursday, Friday & Saturday, 5, 6, 7. Emp'd writing. Mr. White arr'd.

Sunday, 8. Several strangers in Chapel. Squally, did not move out.

Monday, 9. Fine. Writing all day.

Wednesday, 11. Messrs. Davis and King with all their children to school. Violent gale in the evening, much rain.

Thursday, 12. Fine morng. Mr. Kemp arrived with his children. Writing all day.

Friday, 13. Mr. Davis returned. Mr. Hobbs arr'd, emp'd writing. Taui, a youth of considerable rank, came in the evening to converse and enquired amongst other things if it were proper for those not baptised to ask a blessing at meals.

Saturday, 14. Fine. Writing till noon.

Sunday, 15. Cloudy. Several strangers at service. In the afternoon Mr. Brown and I went over to Kororarika, mostly women, a few lads their attention surprising, some of them wishing to go with us to the settlement, much enquiry concerning the Cholera.

Monday, 16. Wind North. Heavy rain generally through the day.

Tuesday, 17. Wind West. Mr. Baker arrived in the afternoon.

Wednesday, 18. Fine. Rode to the Waimate for a change of air and scene and exercise, after so much close writing.

Thursday, 19. Rode in company with Messrs. Clarke and Davis to the woods and saw pits. My horse managed to get into a hole and tumble me into the mud, which was the extent of the damage. The woods were very fine, vast quantities of Kauri of the largest descripttion, many running 70 feet and upwards without a branch, 9 feet in diameter at the butt, and 6 feet at the head: two such trees would build a house for any family.

Friday, 20. Cloudy. At noon took my departure, soon overtaken with rain, continued my journey fearing a gale. Rain increased. My poor Parake slipt so much going over the clay hills that I was obliged to dismount at Puketona

Puketona, a pa in the Oramahoe Valley and the district named after it, was situated a little distance above the Haruru Falls, now called the Waitangi Falls. A noted battle, Taumataiwi, was fought here about 1793 between a raiding party of Ngati-Maru and Ngati-Rangi of Ngapuhi.

and walked the remainder of the journey. A dreadful afternoon, and road exceedingly bad, water running in the roads like rivers. My boy with refreshment remained behind, felt very faint and began to consider whether it would be possible to reach home or not. Was obliged to wade through the river at Kaipatiki and in less than an hour arrived at home in sad condition, but with a grateful heart. Never do I recollect to have been in so trying a predicament, it was with very great difficulty I reached home, faint, cold, and weary.

Saturday, 21. Cloudy. In the eveng. news of the return of several canoes from the Southd. and that Kuki a Chief belonging to the Waimate had been killed by accident. He was a quiet well behaved man and much respected by us all. The intelligence of the return of the natives was very grateful, our hearts were gladdened thereby, as we heard that they had altogether failed in their efforts.

Sunday, 22. Several strangers from the Taua at the service, afterwards administered the sacrament to 8 natives. Rawiri from Wangaroa having paid a visit of instruction to his old friends and companions in arms there. Tupe

Tupe, a chief of Whangaroa.

a Chief who was wounded at Kororarika wishing for a teacher, if not a European he desired that a native might go to reside with him. We have heard many pleasing things relative to this man. May the Lord grant that a door may be opened in this quarter for the introduction of the Gospel through the means of Native teachers. Several canoes entered the bay from the South from the expedition

Of Titore's Tauranga expedition.

. The natives said their guns would not shoot straight, for tho they were frequently quite close, the shots flew off from the object. This they attribute to the influence of the Missionaries.

Monday, 23. Several canoes arrived in the bay this morng. part of the armament which went to the Southd. various reports respecting the expedition. Titore remaining behind. All appear tired and glad to return. Many canoes broken and some lost in the late gales. Peace not effected. Matapo arrd. in the afternoon and related great news of their wonderful achievements. Certainly the news of the battle of Waterloo and the various incidents relating thereto did not command the attention more than the relation of this man. The boys told him it was well for him to make out a good tale, but asked him where were the spoils of victory. The various parties as they return have seldom any observations to make.

In the morng. attended to the English boys school. In the afternoon at the native girls school to form it into circulating classes 38 present, 10 absentees. Boys preparing land for potatoes.

Wednesday, 25. Much rain. Heavy thunderstorms in the afternoon. Emp'd writing.

Thursday, 26. Drilling the girls at school in the afternoon.

Friday, 27. Employed as yesterday in the afternoon. Two canoes came to the beach from the expedition. Nothing to say. A disturbance on account of Kohine, a girl living at my brother's. Some of the party just landed wanted to take her away as a wife for one of them. Our boys too strong for them. Our visitors rather cast down. In the evening a large party of our boys to converse.

Saturday, 28. Fine. Two canoes passed close to the beach from the expedition, none attempting to speak. In the afternoon went to Tepuna, all well there. Natives who returned from the expedition very quiet. All much ashamed, and moved round to a place on the coast out of sight.

Sunday, 29. Fine. No strangers. Much firing in the S.E., supposed fresh arrival. Returned to Paihia in the eveng.

Monday, 30. In the morng. at English boys school. In afternoon whitewashing the Chapel. Rawiri, Matiu, Maraia and Ripeka in the evening to converse.

Tuesday, 31. Whitewashing and repairing the Chapel. Toe the brother of Rawiri arrived from the expedition, having encountered severe weather on the passage up. Some of the canoes had been driven out to sea and had been three days at the mercy of the waves, and with great difficulty reached the land.

Wednesday, 1 August. Fine. Learnt sad accounts of Pita, the baptised native who accompanied us down to Rotorua. He there took a second wife, and ultimately denyed the truth of the religion of the Missionaries. In the afternoon at the native girls school, drilling them at the circular classes. Rawiri and several others going to Waimate to attend the Hahunga.

Thursday, 2. Fine. Boys cleaning windows of the Chapel. Rec'd note from Mrs. Wright, stating that the natives were planting upon their ground

At Pipiroa.

, and that they had expressed their determination to repossess the land already sold. Mr. Brown my brother and I went over to see the good lady as her husband was absent, and walked over the bounds of the land. The natives were civil, cultivating on Cap. Clendon's land. A Cutter at Hokianga said to be lost. Boat picked up and a sail washed on shore.

Friday, 3. An important period with us. Nine years this day since we entered this Bay and came to an anchor. How vast the change in everything around, scarcely a trace of the state of things in those days. We have cause to rejoice at what we now see and hear, and take abundance of encouragement, but we shall see greater things than these.

Boys commenced sawing fencing. In the afternoon drilling girls school.

Saturday, 4. Gale at East. Rain from 9 o'clock. In the eveng. violent thunderstorm, rain and hail very heavy.

Sunday, 5. Fine afternoon went to Kororarika, good assembly. While Rawiri was engaged in prayer with the natives, Gray the Blacksmith, a man who two years since made great professions of religion was carried through the midst insensible from intoxication. Many drunken sailors, and some few natives, among whom was Hakiro, Tareha's son. The natives whom we met behaved very orderly and paid a good deal of attention.

Monday, 6. Wind S.E. appearance of Gale. All morning at native and English school.

Tuesday, 7. Fine. At noon went to the Kerikeri by water, for the purpose of holding service tomorrow. Mr. Brown to Tepuna.

Wednesday, 8. Fine. This day having been set apart as a day of general thanksgiving on account of the return of our natives from their late Expedition, without being able to accomplish their wicked purposes, we assembled at 10 o'clock for service. The natives were attentive. The subject of our meeting was altogether new and I trust will be attended with benefit to many.

Thursday, 9. Fine. Ret'd to Paihia by noon. The natives up the river troublesome to Mrs. Wright.

Friday, 10. Strong breezes from N.W. Squally. Sent some of my youths to the Karaka to commence for planting, preparing ground, &c., for potatoes. A party at home also preparing ground. Mr. Puckey to plant on Cap. Wright's ground to keep possession.

Sunday, 12. Weather unfavourable. Very cold. Mr. G. D. Brown at service. Did not move out.

Monday, 13. Weather continued the same. Boys employed planting. Conversed with some of the natives in the eveng. An old chief rooted in superstition one of the party.

Tuesday, 14. Exceeding cold day. Squalls and rain. Boys digging and preparing seed potatoes. As our method did not correspond with the native ideas, they were not sparing in their remarks, and quite ridiculed the cutting of the potatoes. They were much astonished that we should be able to gain from books any knowledge of this description, or of the nature of the ground and manure required for it.

Wednesday, 15. Fine weather much warmer. Commenced planting according to the English system. Much laughed at by the natives, many strangers came to look and comment upon our proceedings. Afterwards went to the Karaka to examine the land there for my boys and Rawiri, much very good and a plentiful supply of timber for fencing. While here a messenger came to announce that the natives were very troublesome at Captain Wright's place, taking up seed potatoes and eating it. Returned to Paihia and passed on to Pipiroa, found that the seed was taken up but not eaten. Natives disposed to be civil. After some conversation with the natives, they expressedt themselves satisfied. Returned home much tired.

Thursday, 16. Elder boys absent all day in quest of a canoe gone adrift in the night through their perplexing carelessness. Little boys planting potatoes and girls digging in the garden. At dinner time Tarea came and knocked at the door. He presented as gracious a countenance as he could command and complained of cold which intimated his want of a blanket. As I considered myself in his debt, I provided him with one. He was very importunate also for an axe or hoe or anything else even to a fish hook. As we had experienced much civility when to the Southd. Mr. Fairburn gave him an old adze. He shewed us his hand which had been shattered by the bursting of a gun about two months since, it was a most surprising cure. He enquired after two slave girls who were living in the settlement and from his subsequent conduct toward them it appeared he was prepared to use violent measures had there been any hesitation or opposition on our part to their leaving us, as they did not properly belong to him. We however told him, that as they were not our slaves, of course they must depart with him if he thought proper. When the poor creatures were brought before him, He eyed them as a hawk would his prey, and spoke to them with great brutality. He however departed in peace convincing us that he had not in any wise profited from the residence of the Missionaries in the land. After his departure Te Kekeao

Te Kekeao, chief of the Ahuahu hapu.

came into the settlement, shewing the contrast between these two men. He brought about 30 persons with him, most of them Natemaru returning to the Thames with Patuone

Patuone married the sister of Te Kupenga, the Ngati-Paoa chief of Whakatiwai, and went to live with his wife's people.

who was about to settle there. In the eveng. the Chapel was filled with these natives. Rawiri Matiu and other of our Christian youths manifested much interest respecting them. I spoke to them upon their dreadful state by nature and the love of God in giving his Son a ransome for all: but to this they appear entire strangers.

Friday, 17. In the Forenoon Patuone came to call. He is certainly a first rate native, tho as yet no signs of changed nature. Blind to spiritual wants, he knows no Heaven he fears no Hell, and is daily led captive of the wicked one. He stated that he was going to the Southd. to live which was truly gratifying intelligence, as it may tend much to the preservation of peace. In afternoon took Mrs. W. over to call on Mrs. Wright. Heard from Mr. G. D. Brown that Titarau

Tirarau. This is the taua of Pukerangi and Tirarau to the Waikato in 1832. Consisting of 3,000 men, the taua, led by Tirarau, Pukerangi and Motutara, met the Waikato tribes at the mouth of the Waikato River, caused them to retreat, and followed them to Lake Whangape.

had taken a Pa belonging to Waikato—painful news, but the Lord's ear is not heavy that he cannot hear. We must pray, for Satan is up and vigilant.

Saturday, 18. Fine. Boys and Girls at work preparing ground and planting potatoes. In the afternoon heavy rain for two or three hours. Mr. G. D. Brown called and gave much interesting information respecting natives at the Southd. who are in a sad state, few in number and decreasing from war and sickness.

Sunday, 19. Cloudy. Several strange natives at service after which went to Kororarika. None of the leading men joined us, about 70 persons present, many sitting at some little distance wholly regardless of our message. One young man alone, made some enquiries, but stated that the people would not receive our message. Left them and returned home, much depressed in mind at the hardness of their hearts. After evening service two boys came to unburden their minds, which raised my spirits and encouraged me in the work. Oh that we could believe, that as thy day so shall thy strength be.

Monday, 20. Gale from the S.E. heavy rain. Heard that Hake

Hake, a chief of the Urikapana tribe, who lived at Manowhenua.

, from whom we had purchased the Karaka, as soon as he knew that we had commenced preparing ground, had taken a large party there to cultivate, in consequence of being accused of stealing a small piece of lead from my brother's house. When the weather clears up we shall be under the necessity of entering an action against the said Hake for such uncivil proceedings, which will be attended with considerable loss of time and trial of tempers. These things weary the spirits.

Tuesday, 21. Weather appeared disposed to clear up. Went round to the Karaka by boat. No signs of any work having been commenced, tho large party there. All knew our motive in coming and gathered round to hear the conversation, but we sat in silence for a considerable time. I could not perceive that anything had been done. At length I asked Hake his object in coming. He gave an indirect answer. After a lapse of half an hour one of the party said that he and Hake had been accused of stealing a small piece of lead. They had been examined twice, but it had not been found. However this matter we soon put straight by giving six small pieces of Kao. I then told him he must set fire to their houses and sheds, and we would give them a payment when done. His demand was large, but we moderated it and parted good friends.

Wednesday, 22. Fine. Moved early to the Karaka in company with Mr. Puckey. It was past noon before we could bring the question forward. We then produced our payment as agreed upon yesterday for the burning of the houses. It was examined but rejected as not being sufficient and several began digging. We told them it was for them to consider, but that we should certainly continue there unless driven away by general consent. We were obliged to speak resolutely as there had been an evil disposition towards us and many bad expressions uttered. The boats arrived at this period, when we ordered the things to be taken away, but Hake desired that we might not be in a hurry. He became more sober, and made a movement to put our wishes into execution to burn the houses. All were now in motion to carry their things to the canoes, and the houses soon in flames, which concluded this important matter. I returned home by sunset much fatigued in mind and body.

Thursday, 23. Fine. Rawiri and I with some of the boys went to Waitangi to reconnoitre the position and disposition of the natives there. None on our land. Commenced clearing away the surface of the ground of the weeds, &c., &c., to signify our intention to plant something. Heard from some slaves belonging to 'Huhu, that he was coming to cultivate on this land. In the afternoon, Te Tao who was cultivating on the opposite side of the river sent some fish over. I crossed the river to see him. He was very civil, and told me all the natives were coming in a few days to cultivate, and spoke of a swamp on our land as the spot. Heard also in the course of the afternoon that the wife of Watonga had been planting on Cap. Wright's ground, which had been prepared by Mr. Puckey's boys. A good deal perplexed by this succession of trespasses, obliged to send up the Kauakaua to Hiamoe to come and quiet this old woman, for we were weary of such a continuation of interruption, that if it should be the general wish to drive us into the sea, it had better be done with one accord. Certainly the conduct of the natives around us would lead us to suppose that this was their wish, it is according to what has been said by them. I have long felt that we might be called to this for surely the enemy will not willingly relinquish his dominion in the land. May the Lord give us grace to act becoming the Gospel we profess. Taui a young chief came in the evening to converse upon spiritual things.

Friday, 24. Fine. Had further consultation amongst ourselves concerning the intention of the natives, concluded to send messengers to call the principal chiefs together that we might learn their determination and they ours. My brother with all the boys went to Waitangi to express our opinion in going through the form of preparing the land for grass for cattle. Mr. Brown and I went to the 'Haumi to see Hake and to learn his movements. He came across the water, was civil and said we were a jealous people. We told him messengers had gone for the principal chiefs and that we had come to see what he was doing. Ae he said to lift us out if we were cultivating. I nodded assent. He observed they were only getting some shell fish and should remove in a day or two. Hiamoe and Rotokakati came down the river respecting Cap. Wright's land. They appeared disposed to take part with the troublesome woman. We told them that should the Natives prevail against us we should say no more. They observed, who can contend with a noisy woman. It was agreed however to visit her in the morng.

Saturday, 25. Much perplexity and hindrance through the day. After a good deal of trouble, the boys got the boat ready and I passed over with Hiamoe &c. to Mrs. Wright and thence to the old lady who had been so troublesome. She made considerable noise for half an hour saying that the boys had burnt her sacred wood, and stolen a comb with which her husband's head was dressed, and that I had threatened to shoot the natives as tho they were pigs, at which everyone laughed heartily. I told her to burn the house which had been the cause of so much mischief, and we would give her an iron pot on acct. of it. She ordered some food to be cooked for us, and we left her in good humour.

Sunday, 26. A good number of strange natives at service and as we concluded a fresh party from Waitangi, most of whom remained during the day. Mr. Brown and I went to Waitangi after dinner. A few natives gathering pipis on the beds. As they were somewhat beyond our reach, we sent the boys to converse with them, while we remained on the shore. No one from the vessel to Service. In the eveng. heavy rain, no service.

Monday, 27. Fine. At school with the English boys. In the afternoon engaged with Te Morenga, Motoi, Hiamoe, &c., &c., talking over reports which came to us last week. They spoke in a friendly way, and contradicted the idea of any wishing to take land, but we have no doubt that it was the case. In the eveng. Pomare and his fleet of Canoes returned from his expedition from the Thames, they came in quietly.

Tuesday, 28. Assisting Parata

Parata, the Maori transliteration of “brother”; a name given by the Maori people to the Rev. William Williams.

at his house. Also with Temorenga.

Wednesday, 29. Kawiti's fleet of Canoes returned, no display. In the evening received letters from England by way of Hokianga.

Friday, 31. Fine. A Schr. obs'd at day light standing into the Bay and in a short time a boat pulling on shore. All was anxiety to know who it might be, when the name of Cap. Clendon was passed in an instant along the settlement. We were soon in possession of numbers of letters, and learnt that Miss Coldham

Miss Coldham was a sister of Mrs. Henry Williams. She later married the Rev. John Morgan.

was on board and well.

Saturday, 1 September. Boys very unsettled, doubtful whether remain or go, rec'd several boxes and cases &c. from vessel; more letters; a season of much excitement. Heard that Mr. G. D. Brown had been stript in the Thames. Learnt more authentic accounts of an attack upon a Pa at Waikato

Probably further news of the taua of Pukerangi and Tirarau.

, loss of 1 European, and three others taken prisoners, who were afterwards ransomed by the Captain of a ship then in the Thames. They were three respectable young men, one of them was brother to the Cap. of the ship by whom they were redeemed.

Sunday, 2. Fine. Chapel overflowing. In the afternoon good attendance of Europeans.

Monday, 3. Forenoon engaged with Cap. Clendon and Pomare about his land. Many difficulties through the ill conduct of some europeans. In the afternoon engaged with the brethren from the other settlements. In the eveng. held our monthly prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 4. Appearance of a Gale from the S.E. Mr. White arrived from Hokianga in the evening. Marupo made his first appearance since his return, very polite.

Friday, 7. Fine. Planting in the garden. Case of goods for myself and brother brought on shore from the Fortitude, nearly everything in it spoiled from salt water, sad loss. In the evening Rawiri and others came to converse. Very pouri from the idleness of the boys.

Saturday, 8. Showers through the day. Employed planting in the garden. Boys at the Karaka at their plantation. Rewa came to see Captain Clendon respecting his land in Paroa Bay. Much hindered by them.

Sunday, 9. Fine. Large congregation of Europeans and natives. In the afternoon went up the river. Saw Kiwikiwi, attentive and civil.

Monday, 10. At the English school in the forenoon. In the afternoon engaged planting seeds from Cap. Clendon, who has kindly favoured us with a good sample. Pomare and Kiwikiwi came to see Cap. Clendon, required to negotiate their business between them as interpreter, which occupied a good deal of time. Several boys in the evening to converse. Spoke to them upon the necessity of dispersing among the natives to carry the Gospel message. This is a subject they appear to have felt for some time and several would gladly go forth, but they are weak and cannot be trusted far by themselves, they need continual watering and watchful care.

Tuesday, 11. Left early for the Kerikeri to attend a special meeting; uncomfortable pull across the bay; commenced business by 11 o'clock; read the public letter from London just received relative to the two persons coming out from England as Farmers. Returned by ½ past eight in the midst of heavy rain.

Wednesday, 12. Fine. Planting seeds all day in the garden. Mr. Baker arrived in the evening from the Kerikeri.

Thursday, 13. Much conversation respecting the formation of a new Settlement.

Of Kaitaia. [See entry for 2 October 1832.]

Rain latter part of the day. Mr. Hobbs from Hokianga to see Cap. Clendon, and to obtain his things. After dark Mr. White arrived from same place. Koropu, one of my best lads who has had an obstinate fit for the last three months sent me a very civil letter to solicit peace. We settled our differences.

Friday, 14. Messrs. White and Hobbs returned to Hokianga. Fine day, everyone employed planting. In the evening spoke to the natives in the Chapel. Thoughts much engaged upon the necessity of a Settlement to the Southd. Heard that a fresh expedition was in contemplation to Waikato in the summer.

Sunday, 16. Fine. The Chapel very full of strangers, not many Europeans. After service went to Waitangi, wind too strong, could not cross the river. Large ship working into the Bay.

Monday, 17. Fine. Strong wind from the S.W. Report of a disturbance amongst the natives. Pomare the principal agitator.

Tuesday, 18. Fine. Rawiri and I went over to Kororarika. Saw Rewa. The general conversation upon the present disturbance. He expressed a wish that we should go up to Otuihu and see Pomare and the opposite party, which we accordingly did. We found them well disposed to listen; they of course threw all the blame on the people of Kororarika. The dispute arose about a small patch of potatoes, but when the mind is predisposed to displeasure, it does not require much to raise a flame.

Wednesday, 19. Fine. Girls in the garden digging.

Thursday, 20. Gave a portion of ground to the girls for their own potatoes. Squally through the day. Went to the Karaka to see the cultivation there; admired the place; too wet to plant. In the evening Mr. Davis arrived from the Waimate.

Friday, 21. Wintry day. At girls' school in the afternoon, drilling the girls.

Sunday, 23. Gale from the Eastd. Occly rain. No strangers. Administered the Sacrament to 10 natives. Captain Clendon and Mr. Smith in the afternoon. In the eveng. rain, no service.

Monday, 24. Heavy gale with continual rain. Writing all day.

Tuesday & Wednesday, 25, 26. Writing generally through these days.

Saturday, 29. Writing the whole of these days with occasional interruptions.

Sunday, 30. Cloudy and rain. Active arrived from the Colony by 5 o'clock. Mr. Davis and his eldest daughter arrived in the midst of the rain from the Waimate, on acct. of the illness of Mrs. Puckey.

Monday, 1 October. At sunrise on the move to the Kerikeri. Commenced business by 10.30. About noon hail storm so severe that more than 20 panes of glass were broken in the Chapel. In the eveng. held our prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 2. Fine. Messrs. Davis and Clarke from the Waimate, full assembly! Continued close business till 8 p.m., disposed Settlement question. Messrs. Puckey and Mathews with a third to go to the formation of the same.

Wednesday, 3. Fine. Concluded by Noon. Ret'd to Paihia in the eveng.

Thursday, 4. Very unwell through the day. Obliged to keep quiet.

Friday & Saturday, 5, 6. Emp'd writing to the Colony.

Sunday, 7. Fine. While absent at Otuihu in the afternoon Wakarae

Wakarae, a Maori youth baptized by the Rev. W. Williams. [W.W., Journal, 4 October 1832.]

died. Mrs. W. on returning from School passed the door of the house where he was; it was closed and many were assembled inside singing a hymn. They had been with him in his last moments. How different to former days, they were then dark but now light in the Lord. They sorrowed but not as those without hope. Their faith tho simple enabled them to receive with joy those many great and precious promises held out to all who mourn in Zion. This youth was long a Candidate for baptism before he was admitted into the Church.

Monday, 8. Committed the body of Wakarae to the dust in sure and certain hope of the resurrection to eternal life through our Lord Jesus Christ. Many living without observe that the believers die as well as they, that all alike die. This leads to much conversation upon this interesting subject, and thus we find that Satan is foiled by his own weapons in this attempt to weaken the faith and destroy the hopes of those disposed to enquire after truth. It is a solemn subject and the mind generally in a quiet frame. Led to reflect upon the eternity before us. Emp'd in writing the latter part of the day.

Tuesday, 9. Showers through the day. Could not go up the River. Mr. Yate arrived from Waimate.

Wednesday, 10. Heavy showers through the day.

Thursday, 11. Fine. Miss Williams departed for the Kerikeri, to be in connection with that settlement. Called on Mrs. Clendon. Much alarmed at the number of Europeans prowling about.

Friday, 12. Fine. Went up the Kauakaua to see our cultivation, a tolerable piece.

Saturday, 13. Cloudy. Employed writing. In the eveng. Tupe arr'd from Wangaroa. Gale with heavy rain from the Northd.

Sunday, 14. Mr. Brown and I went to Kororarika. Tohitapu met us on landing, but learning that we were going among the less important part of the community to hold our usual service, he turned back with an exclamation of, “Who is going to sit among those slaves?” As we drew to the spot, the tinkling of a little bell saluted our ears, and in a few minutes about 100 persons were assembled. An armchair was brought forward for the Patene, Parson. We formed a snug congregation in a small enclosure and I found everyone very attentive. They informed me they had just concluded school. Very much has been said lately among the natives concerning the great mortality which has long prevailed in the land. This they have attributed to the influence of the Missionaries, and I have learned that Warepoaka and Waikato, when with the expedition at Maketu, circulated the idea that the Missionaries were he iwi makutu, bewitching people, and that they had obtained their information from Europeans of the ships and in the bay. These two men have always been regarded as very substantial friends of ours and externally have appeared to be such, but they have certainly been the authors of much mischief amongst their countrymen. In the affair at Kororarika, they publicly withstood us, and urged the expediency of satisfaction; so also in exciting the natives to go against Tauranga, and moreover to the prevention of peace being made after that much fighting had taken place.

In the eveng. had a pleasant conversation with Tupe, the Chief from Wangaroa. He is very desirous of instruction. Rawiri gave in his report from Puketona, his auditory very attentive.

Monday, 15. Fine. Went up the Kauakaua to visit the plantation, the seed potatoes bad, commenced planting.

Tuesday, 16. Thunderstorm in the night. Commenced heavy rain at 4, which continued till 9 o'clock. Returned to Paihia in the afternoon. Waha and Tangata to converse in the eveng. much pleased with them.

Wednesday, 17. Went to the Wahapu, and on board the Active on business with Mr. Mair and Capn. Wright.

Thursday, 18. Cloudy. Mr. Brown went to the Waimate. Disturbance at Mr. Mairs. Messrs. Fairburn, Puckey and self went over. A party of the Kapotahi had been there very troublesome, but were clear off before we could get across.

Friday, 19. Mr. Brown returned from the Waimate, with information that certain papers had been forwarded by the Active 3 months since.

Saturday, 20. Active's sails ordered on shore owing to the number of suspicious characters in the bay, and no ship laying here. Went up the Kauakaua to hold service tomorrow with the natives.

Sunday, 21. Fine. Held service with all the natives and afterwards went on to Waiomio. Saw Wini

Wini, the elder brother of Christian Rangi.

, Tioka and others, The weather sultry, and hills fatiguing. While with these people an Englishman came to trade with his muskets and powder, which called forth the observations of all present as to his setting at naught the command of the God of Heaven. At 4.30 left the Kauakaua. As we drew near Otuihu we obs'd several canoes and much firing. We learnt that it was Pomare and party crossing the river, and that this was a salute in honour of his son and heir, who had been recently born to him.

Monday, 22. Kept school in the morng. with the English boys. At noon brethren arrived to special Committee.

Tuesday, 23. Fine. Assembled early in committee and closed in the afternoon.

Wednesday, 24. Fine. Writing all day. At evening service spoke to natives in the Chapel.

Thursday, 25. Emp'd in writing. Boys planting potatoes.

Friday, 26. Fine. Spoke to the Natives in the Chapel, after which a young woman and Toe came to converse upon their state and condition.

Saturday, 27. Fine. Report of the day. All the natives of Tauranga killed by Titore's party

A great exaggeration!

in conjunction with the people of Rotorua. In the eveng. several boys and girls in my study to converse. The meeting our natives in the evening is a considerable demand upon our time, but one of too pleasing a nature to be denied. They come like children to be taught, after the duties of the day, and have been frequently waiting till 8 or 9 o'clock before we could possibly see them. By this we may somewhat judge of the sincerity of their motives.

Sunday, 28. Heavy rain could not move out of the settlement.

Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday, 30, 31 & 1 November. Writing through the day.

Friday, 2. Writing. In the evening natives came, too numerous for my study. Met them in the Ware paru. Rawiri observed that the natives were worse than children, they would only be content with their proper nourishment, and would not hear the voice of strangers, but that the natives regarded not the voice of their Father and their instructors, neither did they seek the food which was provided for their souls. He is one of our substantial hands, and affords us much comfort, when anything goes wrong, he is always in the way to put it right.

Saturday, 3. Writing. Met several of our natives in the eveng.

Sunday, 4. Strong wind from West. Remained in the Settlement all day.

Monday, 5. Strong wind. An American Ship arrived. Closed and sent my letters with a drawing of Tohitapu.

This sketch has been reproduced many times in books and articles on the period.

Tuesday, 6. Cloudy. Recommenced school with the boys, as all have been off preparing ground and planting potatoes. Set two parties upon getting posts for fencing, and some to saw fencing.

Wednesday, 7. In the afternoon went to see Mrs. Clendon, who is in difficulties.

Thursday, 8. Gale from the N.W. The Active sailed from Rangihoua, and in the eveng. returned to old anchorage at Motu-o-rangi. We held a court today with our natives for going males and females together to collect shell fish. Spoke to them upon the impropriety of such proceedings and cautioned them to be careful in future. Appointed them their respective places where each may go without interfering with the other; some few expressions of displeasure. Met more than 20 of our natives in the eveng.

Friday, 9. Strong breezes and squally from the Westd. Met 3 natives in the eveng.

Saturday, 10. Strong breezes. Mrs. W. very unwell. Did not move out.

Monday, 12. The Active sailed for the Colony.

Tuesday, 13. At 6.30 p.m. Mrs. W. mercifully delivered of a little girl

Caroline Elizabeth, who later married Samuel Blomfield Ludbrook.

, after very great suffering.

Saturday, 17. h.m. Ship——

h.m.s.Challenger. [Archdeacon Brown, Journal, 17 November 1832.]

came to an anchor at Kororarika. Mr. Brown and I went on board; no news, and but few letters. Learnt this evening that Titore was dead, in about an hour it was contradicted.

Sunday, 18. Baptised Tangata and Waha by the names of Himiona and Hakopa. After service an officer of the Man of War came on shore but did not remain, as it was a public day on board. Poor fellows very ceremonious in their way, tho unmindful of the one thing needful.

Monday, 19. Fine. The Captain of the Man of War and one of his officers came on shore but did not remain. Our proceedings strange to them.

Tuesday, 20. Fine. All the former part of the day assisting Parata at his oven.

Wednesday, 21. All day upon the oven, an important piece of furniture. Gave Mrs. Clendon a lesson upon the construction of an oven and the art of erecting one. Finished our work.

Thursday, 22. At work in the garden, very hot.

Friday, 23. Cloudy. At work in the garden. Rec'd a letter from Haua mentioning his desire to come with his people, his relatives &c., from Kororarika to attend service on Sunday morng. as they were passing a few days there. Met several natives in the eveng.

Saturday, 24. Cloudy. Boys at work in the garden. Natives in attendance previous to receiving the Sacrament.

Sunday, 25. Cloudy. Two Canoes came over from Kororarika with about 100 natives to attend service. Several other strangers here also. Crowded to excess. Administered the Sacrament to our natives.

Monday, 26. Fine. Went up to Kerikeri to attend special meeting respecting the mill. Ret'd in the eveng.

Tuesday, 27. Tohitapu made his appearance from the interior, came down to see Titore

“Titore, who has just returned from the south, was sitting on a bank [at Kororareka] relating his exploits. On the right were fourteen heads stuck on short poles, which the natives seemed eyeing with fiendish exultation.” [A. N. Brown, Journal, 28 November 1832.]

and to attend the meeting of the natives. The party arrived this morning with the heads of those fallen, both belonging to themselves and their enemies. Many fears of a general assembly of the natives as the summer advances. Satan has a strong hold here, but in the Lord of hosts is our consolation, he will overrule all this for good. Intended to cross over to learn the state of things, but prevented by Tohitapu, who proposed tomorrow morning, as more of the Natives would be assembled. Our Natives at school in the evening by their own desire to prepare for the examination.

Wednesday, 28. Immediately after breakfast Mr. Brown and I went over to Kororarika with Tohitapu in the boat, to see Titore, &c. After a good deal of ceremony and preparation on the part of Tohi, we walked toward the party, who were all tapud, and consequently sitting by themselves without the enclosure, with the heads of their friends and enemies in full array before them, 14 belonging to the Nateawa, and 3 to themselves; these last were a short distance from the others, being worthy of more honour. The sight was most disgusting; the heads were dressed with feathers, and the teeth exposed to view gave a ghastly appearance, which was sickening in the extreme. Some of the heads I recognised. The countenances of all around seemed to partake of the image of their father the Devil. It was truly satanic, a grin was on every countenance. I could not hold conversation with any of them. Tohitapu, before taking notice of anyone present, walked towards the three heads belonging to Ngapuhi, and addressing Tu, who may be termed the god of war, as from whom all the art of war is considered to proceed, bravery and cunning. Having addressed himself to Tu and extolled the acts and brave deeds of these warriors, and viewed the payment (the fourteen heads of Nateawa) he expressed his approbation and turned to Titore, fell on his neck, and immediately both began a New Zealand howl. This lasted a few minutes, after which all began to talk together, enquiring and relating the scenes of the campaign. We left Tohitapu here, glad to retire, being much cast down at witnessing the apparent joy of these poor deluded people

In the eveng. two boys came to converse upon heavenly subjects.

Thursday, 29. Cloudy. Went up the Kauakaua. The natives generally cast down, as Tauranga is in close connexion with them.

Friday, 30. Stormy night. But little rest, owing to the dreadful proceedings of the natives at the Southd., reported numbers killed, 200 of the leading men; two battles were fought; each on the Sunday, and commenced by Nateawa. The natives attach great weight to the circumstance of the Tauranga people turning out on the Ra tapu, and consequently attribute their loss to this. Had much conversation with Toe and others, felt strongly disposed to go to the Southd. in my boat to see what could be accomplished. The fault of these late proceedings wholly on the part of Tauranga. Several natives came to me in the eveng., their answers to my questions good.

Saturday, 1 December. Squally with rain. War the general topic of conversation. Everybody going in the course of two months.

Sunday, 2. Squally, violent wind from the Westd. Did not move from home owing to the weather. Taui came in the evening to converse.

Monday, 3. Squally. Engaged in the English school all the forenoon. In the afternoon assisting Mr. Brown in finishing off.

Tuesday, 4. Fine. Assisting Mr. Brown in his house. Conversation with Tohitapu upon the affairs of the Southd. Went to the Toretore

Toretore, an island at the mouth of the Kawakawa River, Busby was asked to adjudicate on the subject of the ownership of this island between Gilbert Mair and John Poyner.

to see a sick Englishman, who had expressed a desire to see me; I could not remain long with him as it was late, promised to see him tomorrow. The poor fellow appeared in a sad state both of body and mind; gave a word to those around. It might almost be said that he was laying in a den of thieves. It was a pot house, and a place of resort for characters of the worst description of drunkards and gamblers.

Wednesday, 5. In the afternoon went over to the Toretore. The poor sick man appeared desirous of instruction; left some tracts for general use.

Friday, 7. Fine. Finished at Mr. Brown's house, tedious work. In the evening went to see the sick man.

Saturday, 8. Fine. Tohitapu came to talk upon State affairs. It appears that many are desirous to go to the Southd., but nothing determined as yet. I shall propose the question at our next meeting, in order to obtain the opinion as to the propriety of a visit to Tauranga. Tupe a chief from Wangaroa landed in the afternoon. Tohitapu again in the eveng. did not withdraw till late.

Sunday, 9. Fine. Good assembly at the Chapel. Several stranger came to converse. They are in a pleasing state. Also Tupe and his people.

Monday, 10. Cloudy, rain occasionally. My brother returned

From Kaitaia.

after a prosperous journey to the Northd. in quest for a desirable situation for a Station in the neighbourhood of Knuckle point. Warerahi and Nene came into the Settlement, had some conversation respecting Tauranga, they agreed with us in our opinion. The remarks of the natives generally here strengthen my desire to go to the Southd. Heard that Wera

Te Wera of Mahia Peninsula.

and Rauperaha

Te Rauparaha, the famous Ngati-Toa chief, victor in many battles, and especially renowned for his remarkable achievement in 1821–2 of conducting his people from Kawhia to Kapiti Island through hostile tribes and many battles. He did not rest at peace in Kapiti, and not only did he succeed in defeating attacks made upon him, he also led successful expeditions deep into the South Island. After the so-called Wairau Massacre, when several pakehas were killed, he was absolved from punishment by Governor Fitzroy. In 1846, however, Governor Grey, suspicious of his influence, arrested him and kept him prisoner until 1848. He died in 1849. [See Buick, An Old New Zealander.]

intended to come up from the East Cape and Entry Island

Cook's name for Kapiti Island.

with their people, to take part in the war.

Rawiri came in the eveng. to state that all the plantations of potatoes belonging to the natives living at Paihia were stript, and consequently his among the rest; he conducted himself very properly. I reminded him that the reports were not always true, and consequently we were not bound to receive them, but that I would examine the matter in the morning. About 10 at night Tohitapu very vociferous on account of one his Wahitapu (sacred spots) having been invaded by some of the lads belong to the Settlement. Continued his noise till midnight. The boys repairing the Wareparu.

Tuesday, 11. Went up to Otuihu to hohou i te rongo (make peace) with Kawiti. As we had not had any communication with him since his party came upon us on the Sunday during service, it was needful to establish a good understanding with him before Titore should persuade him to join in the Expedition against Tauranga. He met me in a gracious manner, and ordered some potatoes and pipis to be cooked for me, and told me he expected a visit from Titore and Tarea, but did not wish to go to fight. Everyone in the settlement busy in preparation for the examination.

Wednesday, 12. Fine. Boys repairing the Wareparu. In the afternoon rec'd a note from Mr. Baker, stating Titore's intention to apply to us for some of the Missionaries to go up with him to the Southd. to see and make peace, that all may return to their own places. What an answer to prayer. Oh for greater faith in the Lord and in the word of His grace. It is thus we would desire to act as mediators between the parties whereby a door may ultimately be opened for the introduction of the Gospel of peace between God and Man.

Thursday, 13. Held a court of enquiry this morng. as to trespass on a Wahitapu belonging to Tohitapu, the spot where his son and several of his relations had been deposited. About 20 of the lads were implicated; gave them a severe reprimand for thus violating our good faith with the natives, and bringing reproach upon all in the Settlement. Deducted a week's payment from each of the 20 boys and sent an iron pot to his Highness Tohitapu. This kind of proceeding on the part of the natives living with us, the entering of the sacred spots to cut firewood &c. is what they have greatly delighted in, not being able to discern that the damages will fall on them; this they will learn probably in the repetition of this morning's lesson. Tohitapu expressed a wish to Rahue the spot, which was granted. The act of Rahue is the fixing of a piece of carved wood, about 5 feet high, smeared over with red ochre, in some conspicuous spot to signify that no one must trespass, or that it is Tapud. Received a note from Mr. Chapman to see one of his girls who was in a dying state. Went up immediately by boat, and arrived by 11 o'clock.

Friday, 14. Cloudy. Strong wind. Saw Aroha the young woman who has been ill for a considerable time, but she was so very deaf, we could not communicate with her; she appears near her bitter end. Returned by 4 o'clock to Paihia where I met Mr. Hobbs from Hokianga. A few boys came to me in the evening.

Saturday, 15. Fine. Kawiti came in the morng. to hear the news of the day. Obs'd a canoe pulling up the river; reported to be Titore; sent an express to call him to shore, but it was Kaitara, one of Wera's sons, lately from the East Cape. Titore had left Kororarika for the Northd. at daylight. Occupied in close conversation all the morng. with the natives, hearing news from the Southd. A party of Natives also from the Thames, much pleased with them.

Sunday, 16. Strong wind from the n.w. Rain at noon. I this morning dedicated my ninth child to the Lord in Baptism, may she be baptised with the Holy Ghost and with Fire, and never be ashamed to confess the faith of Christ crucified, and manfully fight under his banner against sin the world and the Devil, and continue Christ's faithful soldier and servant unto her life's end. A large assemblage of natives at the Chapel. In the evening Warekaua

Wharekawa, a leading chief of Whakatiwai, a pa in the Thames.

a chief from the Thames came to me, with whom I had a long conversation; he pleaded hard for Missionaries to live in his neighbourhood, as they would never be ora by the Pakeha Maori, they should never obtain peace and quietness by means of the Traders who reside amongst them. I told him we would consider his application, but that so much fighting had taken place in the Thames and elsewhere, we were afraid to move. He replied that all this originated in the Ngapuhi, our own people, who were he iwi tutu (A quarrelsome people).

Monday, 17. Cloudy. Strong wind. Rain occasionally. Everyone very busy concluding for the meeting.

Tuesday, 18. Very cloudy. About 10 o'clock Mr. and Mrs. King arrived from Tepuna, Mr. Kemp and Mrs. Chapman from the Kerikeri, and Mr. Clarke from the Waimate. All well at the different settlements. At 3 held our service in the Chapel, and at 6.30 the English Girls examined.

Wednesday, 19. At 9.30 commenced examination of native boys and girls, the Infant school and English boys, all acquitted themselves well, concluded by 1.30. About 3 o'clock dinner was served up, a good mess of potatoes and a piece of pork to each, and some stirabout for the natives outside. At sunset some tea and a cake to each. All were satisfied.

Thursday, 20. Fine. Distributed prizes to the girls. All fatigued. Turned the boys out to play at cricket by way of a finish, and to prepare them for operations in the morng. Very expert, good bowlers.

Friday, 21. The boys recommenced their regular work. In the afternoon went up for the new boat to Cap. Clendon's.

Saturday, 22. Expended much time with strange natives. Learned that Paura, Tamati and Hera had eaten tapud food, Hemi, Hamura and others being present; much grieved at the circumstance, as it gave the enemy cause to blaspheme, they being baptised natives, Tohitapu took occasion to notice it. In the eveng. Tupe arr'd from Wangaroa, also a cance from Kororarika to be in readiness for tomorrow's service.

Sunday, 23. Fine. 3 canoes came over to service. Hakiro, Son of Tarea, of the party. Could not all enter the Chapel. Administered the Sacrament to three natives, those concerned in partaking of the tapud food not permitted to be of the number. In the afternoon went up to Otuihu. Saw Pomare. All in a state of alarm at the news of Ururoa and party coming against them. An old woman much in character to the witches of former days, had a great deal of news to impart. She appeared their oracle, and had revealed by her dreams the desires of Ururoa, who lives at Wangaroa. Poor wretch, she set at naught all I had to say, and amused herself and others occasionally by a pukana, one of their hideous stares, accompanied with a Satanic grin and twirl of the tongue. She spoke of the excellency of the Reinga as having conversed with many from thence. Took the evng. service, much cast down respecting our natives of whom I learnt yesterday.

Monday, 24. Fine. The boys at their respective work, fencing and preparing ground at the back.

Tuesday, 25. Christmas Day. Service at 9 o'clock; but few natives except those of the Settlement in attendance. In the afternoon Mr. Brown and I went up to Otuihu, as it was reported that the natives were assembling there. Found Pomare exceedingly indisposed, having sustained considerable injury from a flying leap he had taken down a bank of some depth in consequence of a quarrel with some of his wives; he had nearly broken his neck. Our words could not administer comfort to him. In the afternoon Karekare

Karekare, a chief of Mangakahia.

arrived from Mangakahia; accounts of the movements of Moetara

Moetara of Pakanae, near the mouth of the Hokianga River, was a powerful chief of the Ngati-Korokoro, who welcomed the early pakehas and actively promoted the traffic in spars.

, Tirarau &c. against Waikato.

This is the taua referred to in the entry of 17 August 1832.

When shall this dreadful work come to an end, but it is thou O Lord who doeth what seemeth good unto thee among the armies of Heaven, and among the inhabitants of the Earth.

Wednesday, 26. The boys at work getting fencing and preparing ground.

Thursday, 27. Fine. Boys as yesterday. In the afternoon a number of canoes came in from the Northd. expected to be the Rarawa with Titore. Many conjectures. They proved however to be a trading party from Matauri and Oruru.

Friday, 28. Fine. Went over to Kororarika. Rewa not there. Saw Moka on the beach and several of his party preparing flax for a fishing net. All were tapued. I sat down in the midst of them, and began to work with them, and to converse upon the past present and future. We had plenty of subject matter to speak upon, and I have not had so agreeable a season for a long period as the present. They frequently laid aside their flax in earnest attention to what was passing. He had several strangers with him, and tho they might not receive my message, which was Jesus and the resurrection, they certainly listened with apparent desire to learn what this new doctrine should mean, for tho to many of those around us it is nothing new, yet to others it is altogether strange. Moka was particularly well behaved, which for so turbulent a creature must have required no ordinary exertion. Hakiro son of Tarea, that overgrown butcher, came up and listened to all that was going on. He told me as I was entering the boat that 30 persons at his place had regular prayer. This may or may not be perfectly true, but they certainly keep regular school at this place, and the Catechisms are generally known. Passed up the river to see the party who arrived yesterday. Haumia and party purchasing oil. Old Tupou

Tupou, a chief from Matauri Bay.

a wicked fellow from Matauri was among them: he grinned a ghastly smile, and would fain have been friendly, but I could not. I was unable to learn their ideas and intentions respecting an expedition to the Southd. Tohitapu crept from under a shed and came forward. From some expressions he used, I much suspect his evil intention. How gladly would all these poor creatures again go forth to war if they thought their enemies could as easily fall before them as they once did, when one party had every man his musket, and their opponents merely sticks, but the story is now changed. Tohitapu would like to go, but would wish to be ensured and have all expenses paid. They have not recovered from the expenses of their last campaign.

Passed on to the Toretore. The sick man something better. Saw some Natives from Kororarika. They mentioned Titore's observations to apply to us to accompany him in order to make peace and return. May the Lord guide us and accomplish so great an object.

Saturday, 29. Fine. The lads at work. Spoke to the natives who had been for the last fortnight up the river at their cultivation, those who had eaten the Tapud food, of whom I heard last week. They acknowledged the impropriety of their conduct.

Sunday, 30. No strangers at church. In the afternoon went to Kororarika, and met a pleasing and attentive congregation; they were engaged at school on landing. The singing was some of the best I ever heard in the land. Before the conclusion of the service, we were disturbed by some native youths who were intoxicated and boxing in true English style. The principal persons were a son of Warerahi and one of Rewa's. After they were parted, which was effected with difficulty, they fell upon every one they met, like two young bulls, upsetting old and young. This is a new acquisition, and will ere long prove destructive to many. Rum is now imported in large quantities, and several of the Chiefs are acquiring a relish for it: but notwithstanding the great opposition made by the enemy of truth, there are enquirers after the way to Zion. This cheers our spirits and bears us up.

Monday, 31. Mr. and Mrs. Brown returned from Tepuna. Had a long conversation with some natives from the Northd. asking counsel and desiring instruction.

VII January to December 1833

Peace parleys — Voyage to Tauranga and Maketu — East Cape Maoris captured by Captain Black — Busby arrives — Rotorua asks for missionaries — Ploughs used at Waimate — Death of Tohitapu — Journey to Thames and Waikato — Te Waharoa — Journey to Whangaroa.

Tuesday, 1 January, 1833. Fine. Through many tender mercies are we brought to another period of time, and before we proceed, it may be well to gaze for a moment on the rugged path over which we have traversed during the last twelve months. The past year has been a season of considerable anxiety on behalf of our poor natives, and conflict with the great Adversary of our souls; but more were they who were for us than those who were against us; for the Lord of Hosts was with us, the God of Jacob was our refuge.

The year opened with great political agitation, threatening destruction to multitudes. Most of the tribes around gathered themselves together and left for Tauranga, thus disregarding our counsel, and after about 5 months vainly trying their best efforts to subdue Tauranga, they in apparent confusion returned without effecting their object—the overthrow of that people. Some few remained behind and have continued the war with loss on both sides, and are now preparing for a fresh campaign. May the Lord put His hook in their nose, and frustrate their mad design.

The various families have experienced illness in a greater or less degree, and though some were brought nigh unto the grave, yet none have departed. Surely goodness and mercy have followed us until now.

Our Missionary efforts have prospered and increased and we have the prospect of extending our borders tho the great Enemy has opposed us vigorously, and has taken up a new position in order to withstand us, but this, “Lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world”, supports us under every trial and perplexity.

Marupo came early to see us; had a good deal of conversation with him, and was thankful to learn that none of that tribe think of moving to the Southd to join the expedition. My brother arrived from Hokianga. Mr. Brown and I went over to Omata to see Mrs. Wright, hearing that Reed was in a state of intoxication, having “been keep Christmas”, and keeping all in bodily fear; glad to find all quiet. Saw Rewa there. He spoke of going to Waikato.

Wednesday, 2. Reed came over in a great hurry to say that Mrs. Wright was in a great fright owing to the rude conduct of Te Rou

Te Rou, one of the chiefs from whom Busby bought land at Whangarei, and at this time living in the Bay of Islands. [Ramsden, Busby, p324.]

; gave the man a serious talking to; he is a wild mad fellow. In the afternoon went to pay a visit to my boys at Karaka; working well.

Thursday, 3. Fine. Boys at work preparing land.

Friday, 4. Fine. Went up the Kerikeri to fetch the children. Ship Conway arrived.

Saturday, 5. Cloudy. Commenced cutting posts in the bush behind.

Sunday, 6. Fine. The Ship Sisters, Cap. Duke, arrived. No sooner was the anchor gone than Cap. and Mrs. Duke came on shore. The Captain soon informed me that Mrs. D. was very much indisposed and that he had a great desire to procure accommodation for her on shore, and that Mrs. Brown had expressed a desire that she should remain with her. To this I could say but little, as Mrs. Brown was not in the Settlement. We therefore accommodated Mrs. D. as well as we could, and consoled ourselves as well as the circumstances of the case would admit of.

Monday, 7. Strong wind through the night with rain. At daylight the wind ceased. Left for the Kerikeri. We were overtaken with much rain but arrived in good time. Commenced business at 3 o'clock. In the evening prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 8. Cloudy, with strong wind from South; cold. Fires very comfortable tho in the middle of summer. All day engaged in parish business.

Wednesday, 9. Entered upon the question of a visit to the Southd. with aview to examine for a future Station, which with other business drawing stores &c. occupied us until 3 o'clock, when we adjourned to Wednesday next, being all tired. Returned home by dusk, all well. Mrs. Duke obtained accommodation at Cap. Clendon's. A man named Field, who had been engaged to make some furniture, nearly drowned; a poor miserable wretch, a drunken professor of religion.

Friday, 11. Fine. Went over to Kororarika; saw Hakiro, who was very polite, and called everyone within reach to draw near; all expressed themselves well. Passed on to Rewa, who was repairing a fishing net; all left their employment and came and entered into conversation, but Rewa evidently shewed that he had no part in the matter. He observed that the Natives would go to Tauranga and overcome that people, little regarding that the battle is not to the strong, nor the race to the swift. I told him our regard for all was very great, that we were much concerned to observe their indifference to the message of our God to them. In the afternoon a Brig arrived from Sydney, a few letters and registers. In the eveng. met several of our natives in conference.

Saturday, 12. My brother returned from Hokianga.

Sunday, 13. After service went to Otuihu. Saw Hihi. Several Europeans came and entered into conversation. Titore

Titore landed at Kororareka and began discussions on a new expedition.

landed at Kororarika.

Monday, 14. My brother and I went to Kororarika to learn the state of general feeling. Saw Rewa first; he told us that the Napuhi would not go to Tauranga; this we were glad to hear but desired to have it confirmed. Passed on to Tareha and Titore. The latter appeared sullen for some time, but afterwards recovered himself; he seemed to assume great importance.

Tuesday, 15. Gale through the night; much rain. In the afternoon the weather cleared up. Took my family to the Kerikeri; arrived at 10 o'clock.

Wednesday, 16. At committee all day upon the question of a mission to the Southd.

Thursday, 17. Fine. Engaged all the forenoon in making out indent. At 4 left for the Waimate. Mr. Clarke having brought the cart for Mrs. W. and the children, besides four horses for the remainder of the party. Everyone enjoyed the ride, which was a very delightful change. It was dusk before we arrived at our quarters, where we found Mrs. Clarke much better than we expected. Everything was very comfortable, and plenty of room for the children to run about.

Friday, 18. Heavy rain in the morng., which cleared off in the afternoon. A number of the Rarawa in the Settlement on their way to Kororarika. We had a long conversation with them upon the importance of turning from these lying vanities unto the one true and living God. We were in hopes that they might yet be deterred from their desire to accompany Titore.

Saturday, 19. Fine morning. Mr. Clarke conducted Mrs. W., Miss Coldham and myself, to the Lake of Maupere.

Lake Omapere.

It is a very grand object in the centre of the Island and beautifully wooded. We here remained for a considerable time admiring the scenery around and examining an old fortification on a promontory which extended some distance into the lake. No one was residing here at this time.

Sunday, 20. Fine. After morning service I went to the Kerikeri for the purpose of publishing the bans of marriage between Mr. Preece and Miss Williams for the last time. I found the ride exceedingly hot. The service was late. A large body of the Rarawa at the settlement but none attended the eveng. service. I felt too fatigued to go over to see them. Titore was with them.

Monday, 21. The natives left at sunrise. After breakfast Mr. Baker and I went down to Kororarika. Everybody was busy attending to the wants of the newly arrived visitors. Titore spoke very well but I have my doubts of him. We were glad to learn that none of the Ngapuhi were likely to join the expedition. No speeches took place, consequently we left early and passed over to Paihia.

Tuesday, 22. Observed a number of canoes standing in from the Northd. which we concluded to be a party of the Rarawa. Mr. Baker and I went over to Kororarika and met them on landing. There were about 100 men, of whom Te Morenga appeared to be the Chief : we addressed a few words to him, but they were not according to his views; he was for war. We passed up to the Kerikeri, greatly lamenting the dominion which Satan held over these poor people.

Wednesday, 23. Fine. Mrs. Williams and family returned from the Waimate, having much refreshed themselves by their visit. The change of scene was very great to them, not having removed from the seaside for many years.

Thursday, 24. Fine. Felt very unwell, and could not enjoy the examination of the school, which took place this morng. In the eveng felt much better. Heavy rain. Mr. Preece arrived.

Friday, 25. The Wedding!!! At break of day the Natives surrounded Mr. Baker's house (where was the bride elect) making a vociferous noise, several making speeches together, the purport of which was, that the lady should not depart from the settlement unless a very great fee was paid down, worthy of her great excellencies. The boys after amusing themselves at the expense of the happy pair for some considerable time, obtained their fee, which was a pair of blankets for the purpose of buying pigs, for a feast in honour of the great occasion. Mr. Brown performed the ceremony which took place at 11 o'clock. After partaking of a cold collation, the Bride and Bridegroom set off for the Waimate, and we for Paihia, where we arrived about 4 o'clock, and met Captain and Mrs. Duke, the latter of whom exhibited an effective scene to move the sympathy of our good wives to receive her into the settlement under their protection, as she would long stand in need of a Doctor and Nurse; but the prospect being too alarming to the economy of our arrangements and proceedings, it was declined, but not acceded to without considerable efforts. The good lady was recommended to Mrs. Clendon, Mrs. Wright or to some other of the sisterhood dwelling in our neighbourhood. This interview had nearly brought on a serious illness with Mrs. Brown, on whose friendship the good Captain and his lady had evidently laid some claim from the circumstance of an uncle having seen a relative of Mrs. B. in England.

Saturday, 26. Fine. In the Eveng. an alarm was given that the Rarawa were coming in the morng. in order to upset the settlement in consequence of an expression said to have proceeded from one of my boys, stating that the Head of Papahia

Papahia, a leading chief of Te Rarawa tribe, who lived at Orongotea, Hokianga. He signed the Treaty of Waitangi as “Chief of the Hokianga tribes”. Wi Tana, Tangata Kotahi and Te Tai, who also signed the Treaty, were his sons. When his elder brother, Te Huhu, died at Waimaka, he composed a lament in his memory. [A. T. Ngata, Nga Moteatea, vol. I, p5.]

, the Chief of the party at Kororarika, should be smashed by Nateawa on his arrival at Tauranga. We enquired into the case, when there did not appear the slightest foundation for the report.

Sunday, 27. Fine. In the afternoon I went to Kororarika to see the natives there, and to ascertain the state of their minds. On landing Titore came down to the nose of the boat, and began to play at Draughts and calling on the name of Jesus Christ to strike off his hands. I spoke to him, but he was determined to be angry. I therefore passed on and went to Tareha. He was unusually civil. Before I left the beach I called on Titore as I was passing, and required some explanation of his conduct. He told me we were a wicked people and delighted in using bad and irritating language and repeating the reports he had heard. I desired him to call his evidence, which he endeavoured to do but could not produce any except hearsay evidence. It was at length traced to an old woman whom no one knew anything of and consequently the indictment was quashed. Titore said it was the first time we had had any quarrel, and we must make peace, which I was glad to do on account of these poor people. I walked on to see the Rarawa, but they were too busy in preparing Kia turia te Ngarahau (to have their dance and speeches) previous to their movement towards Tauranga. They appeared to partake more than usual of the spirit of their father the Devil, and to exult in thus violating the Ra tapu. All was soon confusion and we were glad to escape to our more peaceful region.

Monday, 28. Fine. The Rarawa left the Bay this morning after committing some depredations upon the natives; they are an uncouth set of fellows and are thus considered by those around. Went to Te Puna to see Mr. Shepherd to request him to join our expedition to the Southd.

Tuesday, 29. Fine. Cap. Clendon arrived from the Colony; a few letters. Pango, the chief from Rotorua, who accompanied Titore from thence, came over to see us. We had a long conversation with him upon missionary subjects; he appeared to wish for some of us to live among his people, which certainly would be highly important. This man is related to several persons in the Settlement, and is an old acquaintance of ours, as we saved his head about six years since when closely pursued by the Ngapuhi, at the time that Hongi received his wound at Wangaroa, as he was charged with having makutud Hongi upon that occasion, which caused his wound. He fled to us for safety, when we obtained a passage for him on board a vessel which conveyed him to his place.

Wednesday, 30. Mr. White arrived from Hokianga.

Thursday, 31. Fine. Engaged all day with Dr. Ross

Dr. Ross, an elderly medical practitioner who settled in the Bay of Islands and built a house at Waitangi. His widow sold the property to Captain W. C. Kingstone, who in turn sold it to Busby in 1838. [Ramsden, Busby, p198.]

a physician who had come down from Port Jackson for the benefit of his health, with Mrs. Ross, under the expectation of residing here. Walked with him to Waitangi to show him that part of the country, with which he was very much pleased, and proposed to purchase a spot there. Old Hiamoe and several others came to have some conversation about our projected voyage to Tauranga; they proposed that some of their party should go with us; did not give a definite answer.

Friday, 1 February. Nene

Tamata Waka Nene.

, Kekehau

Kekeao.

and others came into the settlement; their conversation upon the general topic, the expedition to Tauranga; they appeared in doubts whether to go or not. I spent much time with them, talking over state affairs. In the afternoon heavy rain. Gale from North.

Saturday, 2. We hear that it is concluded that the Ngapuhi are not going, and we hope but few of the Rarawa. Titore may perhaps have yet to learn wisdom, as he has rejected all we have had to say to him; he appears flushed with a partial victory and expresses a desire that no one may go with him. His language to us is favourable.

Sunday, 3. Fine. A goodly number of Natives at service. Chapel very full. In the afternoon a large congregation of Europeans. Much cast down on account of the Natives at Kororarika. Tareha in a great rage today at Rawiri, he came toward him when at Kororarika roaring like an infuriated bull, in consequence of some of the answers in one of the Catchisms being opposed to his views of strict propriety, in as much as all men, without distinction of rank are brought under condemnation, who believe not in the name of the Son of God. This doctrine as observed may do for Slaves and Europeans but not for a free and noble people like the Ngapuhi, therefore they will not receive it. Heard that Taeopa

The Taeopa, the cutter belonging to Pi, mentioned several times in the Journal when recording Titore's first expedition to Tauranga in 1832.

, a small cutter, (which had formerly belonged to the natives, but now it appeared had been purchased by a man of the name of Poyner) had been seized last evening by Titore and his people, and that some of the europeans had been ill used. The reason assigned was that she had not been fully paid for, that she was tapud in consequence of the heads she had brought from the Southd. and that they required her to convey their ammunition and provision to Maketu. As very gross imposition had been practised upon the natives respecting their purchase of this vessel, we could not express that disapprobation we should have done under any other circumstance.

Monday, 4. Rain all day. Wind from E.N.E. Sailed over to Kororarika to see Titore and Tarea, respecting our going up to the Southd. Titore was very civil; he related the particulars of the seizure of the Cutter and claimed her on behalf of the Natives as she had never been sold by them. It was concluded that we should join them at Maketu. Titore mentioned that the Capn. of the Brig which is going to convey him to Maketu with the bulk of their baggage and provision, was very urgent with them to ship their things yesterday, but that they would not comply with his desires, as it was the Ra tapu. Thus we find Heathens preaching to a Christian, calling his attention to the command of Heaven, “Remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy”. The reply of this Christian was, that they were not missionaries and did not regard these things. Titore gave me a Mere as a sign of peace being established between us.

Tuesday, 5. Titore sailed this morng.

Titore was accompanied by a party of the Rarawa tribe from Mangonui, Kaitaia, &c., under the leadership of Te Panakareao. [Smith, Wars, p450.]

in the Port Jackson Brig with 1000 baskets of potatoes, arms, stores, &c., to be used against Nateawa, the people of Tauranga. Mr. Chapman arrived ready for a departure, having taken leave of home. Much conversation in the eveng. determining the course of our proceedings.

Wednesday, 6. Fine. Mr. Chapman and I went over to Kororarika to see Tareha, as some objections had been raised to our going to the Southd., that our movements would frustrate their plans. This is most certainly our desire and aim and constant prayer, that they may be delivered from those chains of darkness with which they have been so long bound, and become the sons and daughters of the Lord Almighty, through Jesus Christ their Redeemer, that this dark corner of the Earth, which has been for centuries full of the habitations of cruelty, may yet rejoice as the garden of the Lord. We found Tareha asleep and could not rouse him up. At length he came out of his den, smiled and looked gracious and entered upon the news of the day. He had no objection to offer to our going forward, but spoke of our proceeding in the morning. We passed on to Wai and the remainder of his party. They were all very civil and made many enquiries and expressed a wish that we should keep in company. Returned to Paihia and concluded my preparations for a movement in the morning.

Thursday, 7. This present visit to the Southd. has occupied much thought and conversation and been the subject of many prayers that we may obtain divine guidance. With the Thames we have had no communication except a partial visit last year, tho many invitations have been held out by the Chiefs visiting the Bay of Islands. Our plans were therefore arranged to go first to Haurake and to pass on to Waikato, but owing to the opposition shown by Tarea and other Chiefs to our going thither, lest messengers proceed from thence to Tauranga, we determined to change our route and go direct to Maketu, see the contending parties and endeavour if possible to moderate their feelings, at least to see them and shew them how contrary are their proceedings to the peaceful spirit of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. If on our return we can effect a call in the Thames, we shall gladly commence an acquaintance in this quarter.

The morning was very fine and the bay perfectly smooth with a light air from S.S.W. Much bustle in placing the baggage in the boats, which had been collected with much care, both for quality and compactness of stowage and convenience, as we contemplated an absence of many weeks, and should have to abide in tents during the period. All was prepared and ready for departure by 8 o'clock, and we took leave at 9; the natives in the settlement saluting us with their guns. Mr. Chapman was in his own boat, and the Karere in company for the purpose of taking potatoes for the boys, and of rendering assistance if needed. Taeapo and an American ship standing out of the Bay. Our sailing was very pleasant, and at noon we rounded Cape Brett. Wind shifted to the seabreeze. At 2 observed a strange sail to the Northd., could not make her out. Much admired the action of our boat; she sailed with much elegance, and possessed great accommodation. At 6 we landed at Wangaruru, and pitched our tent in a quiet spot among the bushes. Discovered a place where a human head had but recently been prepared. Obliged to retire early to bed owing to a severe headache from long abstinence, not having taken any food, and exposed to a burning sun.

Friday, 8. Woke several times in consequence of fleas, the occupants of the land. Found myself much better for a rest, moved on at daylight with a pleasant breeze. Karere a few miles distant. At 9 o'clock pulled into Wananaki, a fine broad river for small vessels. We here breakfasted; coffee excellent. At 1 we entered Tutukaka, having left Mr. Chapman far behind. Took some ovsters, which we found in great abundance, and pulled on to Taiharuru. As we approached, the wind suddenly shifted to South and blew strong. With difficulty we found an entrance, as the sea was breaking heavily on the rocks. We passed in safely and obtained snug quarters within a long chain of rocks which broke off the sea and formed a good shelter for canoes and boats.

Saturday, 9. Fine morning. We were delaved 2 hours owing to the tide being out; not sufficient water for the boats; took breakfast and pulled out. A Brig standing to the Northd., Taeopo to leeward; passed on with a fine breeze to Te Wara, the outer head of Wangari. The wind increasing we pulled in with great difficulty into the Harbour. We were much disappointed at not finding the Karere here but more so at learning that there were no natives up the river

Driven out in retaliation for the taua of Tirarau and Pukerangi to the Waikato in the previous year. [Smith, Wars, p452; Kelly, Tainui, p399.]

, all having been dispersed some time since by a party from Waikato. A large fire was observed to the Southd., supposed to be the Rarawa. No inhabitants hitherto seen; all desolation; wind very strong during the remainder of the day; everyone felt weary from the heat of the weather, and the long and heavy pull into the harbour. We occupied the place we did last year, but no one here but ourselves.

Sunday, 10. Much rain in the night but fine morning. No signs of living creatures near us. Determined to proceed up the river to see for ourselves if there was no one in the neighbourhood with whom we could communicate upon the nature of eternal things. We accordingly took advantage of the flood tide, but to no purpose. We saw the wreck of an Englishman's house, but no creature. When last here there was a large party at the Pa and several Europeans in various places around, but all are gone, shewing the distressing effects of war. Landed our Messenger for Paihia and returned to our quarters. This Sunday appears a Blank; everyone feeling out of order. In the evening held service with our boys.

Monday, 11. At 3.30 woke the boys to proceed on. Clouds flying fast over the moon, tho but little wind with us; dark, hazy morning. We had an agreeable sail as far as Mangawai by 9 o'clock. From appearances the Rarawa must have left in the night, as their feet marks were not washed out in the sand. Had a comfortable breakfast, but the wind was so much increased that we were glad to put back after getting under weigh. The boys employed themselves in fishing. At 2 o'clock put out under close reefed sails and passed along very comfortably, keeping close to the shore. At 3.30 obs'd fires at Wakatuwenua, and by 5 landed amongst the Rarawa, and was glad to find Rawiri among them; they were all very kind. I had a long conversation with them, and we afterwards assembled all to prayers, previous to our leaving them to pull round to the Karere, which was at Omaha our old and favourite spot. It was near 8 o'clock before we arrived at our quarters, where we immediately kindled fires amongst the trees, pitched our tents, and soon found ourselves at home; took supper, had prayers, and went to bed, weary.

Tuesday, 12. Fine night. No one disposed to rise early, being very tired from yesterdays movements. Wind strong from Westd.; fleas very numerous; learnt that the Rarawa had passed on to Hauturu (the little Barrier) in the night. As the distance across the Thames to Cape Colvel is great and the sea generally considerable, we concluded to remain quiet and arrange our things. Toward evening as the wind had much abated and the weather clear, we thought it well to take the advantage and put across. We moved off at sunset in company with Karere. After about two hours the wind began to muffle, which caused a good deal of sea for a boat, but we passed on surprisingly well, the boys admiring the abilities of our frail bark.

Wednesday, 13. Fresh breezes. By 1 we came into smooth water. Shortened sail and ran close in shore, pulled round to Port Charles, and came to an anchor till daylight, not wishing to land as the boys were somewhat apprehensive of Parekeawiowio

Parekeawiowio, a renowned chief of the Thames, by this time an old man.

, a noted character, Lord of this part of the land, and one who has killed many a traveller while reposing within his dominions. At daybreak we landed in a quiet bay, where the boys immediately commenced to explore the neighbourhood for Karakas, and some to get shell fish. Our breakfast was very refreshing, and by the aid of a good wash and a good fire we were soon able to continue our voyage after a short examination as to the nature of this Port as laid down on the chart. We were much interested with all we saw here as it was near this place we so narrowly escaped shipwreck last year. Examined the bay or inlet called Port Charles, which is incapable of offering any shelter even for the Karere. The sea breeze came suddenly on and for some time it appeared doubtful whether the little vessel would work out. Passed on to Ahuahu, the Northern of the Mercury islands where we found refuge in the Active last year. Very snug quarters among the bushes, and Karere laying in the River. The boys dispersed to reconnoitre. Some of them returned loaded with dried shark apparently left behind in flight, a fine prize for the boys. As we came out of Port Charles took particular notice of the rocks and coast which had well nigh marked our tomb on the 8th of Apl. last, and I consider that the Active could not have been more than half cable length from the shore when so mercifully preserved. Assembled our boys at dusk to prayers and retired to rest. Very weary.

Thursday, 14. Cloudy, wind W.N.W. One week from home this morning and but one interview with any natives and only one day's sail from Tauranga. Yet we cannot proceed until the Rarawa pass on, unless we go direct to Maketu. A handsome curry and peach pudding for dinner. Our fishing party took a considerable number. Some of the boys cutting firewood, there not being any at Maketu.

Friday, 15. Felt very unwell. Boys getting fern root in order to spare our stock of provision, as we must not expect to purchase any. Many human bones

The result of the slaughter by Mango and Kakaha.

lay scattered upon the surface of the ground, the remains of some of their horrid repasts. Saw no appearance of the fires of the Rarawa. Prospect of rain, prepared accordingly.

Saturday, 16. Fine. Determined to remain quiet until Monday and proceed on. Continued unwell. Some of the boys brought in dried shark. Prepared for departure on Monday.

Sunday, 17. Cloudy. Wind from N.W. Continued unwell. Held a very comfortable service with the boys after breakfast. Much out of sorts during the remainder of the day,

Monday, 18. Wind and Rain with lightning; could not move from our quarters. The boys foraging for food, shellfish, fern root, &c., &c. In the eveng. fine; prepared for a move in the morng.

Tuesday, 19. At daylight, dark cloudy weather, light airs from the West, and the scud flying rapidly. Left our retreat and moved out. Soon found a wind and sea; passed most rapidly along. A little after 7 o'clock entered Mercury bay; landed on a quiet beach to breakfast; a fine stream of water falling from a cliff close to us, and the trees overhanging us. Having concluded our repast we sang a hymn with the boys, and offered up our Morning sacrifice to the Lord of Heaven and Earth. I could not but reflect while preparation was making for our proceeding, that of the multitudes who have passed over the very stones on which we were sitting, in their expedition to and from the war, none had been found to give praise to the Lord : that this was in all probability the first time since the Creation that any had approached the Throne of Grace in this part of the world. It was past 8 before we loosed from this quiet spot to engage a firy breeze and foaming sea which was running at this time for the wind was very strong. It was doubtful for some time whether we could continue our course, but by going under easy sail we went comfortably, observing the inlets and islands close to the shore. About 2 o'clock entered Tairua, a river into which small vessels may go, tho several banks and shoals inside. No signs of any inhabitant, no smoke to be seen in the distance. The country bore the general character of New Zealand scenery, a succession of hill and dale, it was however a picturesque place. The high land was covered with timber and there appeared many rich tracts of land but no hand to cultivate. Took a hasty survey of the river while the boys were getting shell fish and karaka. Had dinner and crossed over to Wakahau, where the Karere was at anchor. Drew the boats on shore as the weather seemed threatening. Before we could complete our tents rain commenced and continued. We felt thankful for the shelter afforded. Our run was very considerable this day.

Wednesday, 20. Rain more or less through the night, my tent perfectly tight by the assistance of some painted cloths. At daylight the weather cleared off a little, but as the wind was not fair, we kept our place. Boys catching eels and shell fish, digging fern root. In the evening, weather more favourable, prepared for a move in the morning.

Thursday, 21. Quiet night. At daylight cloudy, but little wind from S.S.W. Rawiri, Hamu

Hamu, wife of Te Koki, and a chieftainess of rank, was a strong personality. She became a devout Christian and was given at her baptism the name of Ana. After Heke's war she went to live at Paihia.

, and her dog, joined us in the boats. Weather doubtful. A pleasant sail to Wangamata. When at the entrance the wind sprang up from the S.E., and increased through the day. Appearance of natives having been recently here from the interior, as a number of sheds were standing by the river side. The boys brought two kittens from them, which Hamu took charge of as tho they were children. Every one collecting food. In the evening wind increased to a gale with rain. Under considerable apprehension about Karere, as the wind appeared from the only point to which she could be exposed. Tho it was blowing a severe gale outside with heavy rain, yet our encampment was so very snug and quiet that we were scarcely put to any inconvenience, being protected by bushes and trees. Rawiri related former deeds of cruelty and murder practised in this river but he was now upon a different errand, that of speaking peace through Jesus Christ.

Friday, 22. Dreary stormy night, but our tents did not give way, nor did the rain penetrate, nor is our health in any wise affected by the damp around. The sea roars with awful majesty at the entrance of the river being one perpetual foam. Our situation begins to be tedious and wearisome. It is now more than a fortnight since we left our homes, and we have seen no one except the Rarawa at one interval and we cannot proceed until the sea is smooth, but it is the Lord's work in which we are engaged, it is His honour we seek. and we would desire to commit ourselves to Him. Heavy rain.

Saturday, 23. Wind died away in the night; every appearance of fine weather in which the birds seem to rejoice, their melody fills the surrounding woods and bushes. We felt happy in being able to put out our heads and look abroad. The boys departed early to the neighbouring woods in quest of food, and others to look after Karere, to observe if any signal of distress were shewn. At noon wind tho light still from the sea. The mosquitos and namus exceedingly troublesome, could not escape from them.

Sunday, 24. Clear morng. sea smooth, no signs of life, no sound of the Church going bell. How melancholy the reflection, once these hills and vallies were peopled though with savage hordes, but of late years they have been hunted as the deer until few remain, and they driven into the interior; but surely this work of destruction shall cease and this wilderness shall rejoice and blossom as the rose, and these hills resound with songs of praise to God and the Lamb.

After breakfast assembled our little congregation under the shadow of the wide spreading Pohutukaua, and held service; it was sweet and refreshing to know that we with all the Israel of God, were engaged in the service and enjoying the presence of our common Father and Friend, tho absent in body still present in spirit with them; these are the privileges of the Christian:

Where two or three with sweet accord Obedient to their Sovereign Lord, Meet to recount his acts of grace, And offer solemn praise and prayer— There, says the Saviour, will I be, Amid this little company, To them unveil my smiling face, And shed my glories round the place.

At sunset the sky became overcast, and the breeze sprung up from the S.E. with rain, which seemed to indicate a protracted stay in this quarter. At first the thought was painful but we were enabled to leave all to the great Disposer of events, and retired to rest under a sense of our infinite obligation to him for his unspeakable mercies to us.

Monday, 25. A quiet night and clear morning, but the surf was roaring at the entrance. Took breakfast, struck our encampment, and pulled out to take a view of the sea, which we found very considerable, and heavy swell. The breeze springing up from the Eastd. we were obliged to return to our old quarters, and were most severely beset with namus; they were ravenous and found their way through every covering; we were obliged to bind up our hands and feet on account of them, but could not effectually keep clear of them. At sunset clear sky. The boys returned from foraging, they brought a good quantity of fern root.

Tuesday, 26. Fine morning. I intended to move at break of day but the boys were apprehensive of a Southerly wind; delayed till 9 o'clock when we pulled out in quest of a wind. A breeze sprung up at East, which shifted in the course of the day to North. Passed on at an agreeable rate to Karewa. Mr. Chapman out of sight. The boys landed and caught a number of young birds and found some potatoes, which afforded them a good supper. Entered Tauranga by 9 o'clock, landed under the Great Hill, “Maunga nui.” Kindled fires and cooked our supper which we all stood much in need of having taken nothing. Rolled ourselves up in blankets, and laid down on the ground. Not wishing to be seen we were obliged to keep close, lest the Ngapuhi should be displeased at our holding intercourse with the enemy before seeing them. Felt thankful for mercies received and for the favourable wind through the day and that it did not favour us yesterday, as the sea was very uncomfortable from the late gale. Our distance run today about 40 miles.

Wednesday, 27. Fine night. Slept well; not disturbed by any intruders. At break of day all were in the boats and on the move. As we passed out of the harbour several guns were discharged at Maungatapu, most probably at having gained sight of us. We passed along with a gentle breeze, about 3/4 of a mile from the beach. Several of Nateawa on shore gazing at us not knowing what to make of us whether friend or foe. One canoe fishing of the Pa pulled out of our way. We waved to them but they would not trust us. When abreast of the Tumu

Te Tumu, a pa two miles to the West of Maketu, was held by the Ngai-te-Rangi of Tauranga under Tupaea and Kiharoa. Maketu was held by the Arawa confederation of tribes of Rotorua, but this confederation was divided by quarrels so that the Ngati-Whakaue of Rotorua under Korokai assisted Ngapuhi, and the Ngati-Rangiwewehi of Ngongotaha were assisting Ngai-te-Rangi. [Correcting Smith, Wars, p451.]

a great gun was fired. The fence appeared of a temporary nature, and the canoes lay carelessly about. As we drew near to Maketu we observed the flag hoisted half mast high, and soon learnt that 10 persons had yesterday been killed by the opposite party on the road to Rotorua. We were received very graciously by all on shore, all turned out to meet us, and soon gave us the news of the day. Had some interesting conversations with the leading persons, and from what I can discern, the Ngapuhi would be glad to return. It was however proposed to remain quiet until the natives shall be assembled, and then to have a general enquiry as to what shall be done, whether peace or war. The people appear far better disposed than I could have expected, and I sincerely hope that something may be accomplished. There is much pleading for Missionaries to be dispersed among them to preserve peace. At noon took breakfast on flying fish and coffee; the boys occupied in pitching the tents, putting a fence around them to keep off intruders &c., &c. Between 5 and 6 we assembled the natives for prayers. They were not quite so quiet as formerly, but it was quite a relief to speak to them upon things relating to their peace, The natives in the Pa chattering till a late hour.

Thursday, 28. A comfortable night, free from fleas. We had been very apprehensive of being devoured alive by them owing to the number of natives around. Two old ladies slept at my tent door as my guard. At daylight our boys and a number of the natives of the place, repeating the catechism, to the apparent admiration of all. A fine Kahawai sent for our breakfast. Number of spectators during the day. Long conversation with several chiefs respecting war; general expression of hope for peace, and desire for some of us to come amongst them; many insisted on Mr. Chapman's remaining. Long dispute respecting superstitions of the New Zealanders; much wonder expressed at what I said to them respecting the state of our fore fathers, and the similarity between the two people. The doctrine of the resurrection of the body also gained their serious attention, tho they observed that it was a hard saying, who could believe it. Pita's misconduct has caused much evil. This man and his wife were baptised about 4 years since, and accompanied Mr. Chapman and myself in our first visit to this neighbourhood. We had pleasing expectations of him then, tho not so much so of his wife, but he appears altogether to have fallen away; yet often have I rejoiced to hear him engage in prayer and address his countrymen, as he far exceeded in ability our old friend Rawiri, who is more slow and somewhat heavy, yet very sincere. Pita endured for a while, and the natives paid much respect to him.

In the afternoon we walked through the Pa, a dirty filthy place, no order or plan in the arrangement of the works, everything in a careless state. A prodigious quantity of fish caught of all kinds; procured a few for the boys. Examined the entrance to the river, nearly dry at low water, and exposed to the northerly wind which throws in a heavy sea. We had a pleasing conversation with Titore, &c., &c. They are evidently desirous for peace, but did not wish us to move to the Pa at present, but wait the arrival of the Rarawa.

Three weeks today since we left home but I trust we are engaged in important duty and that the Lord will bless and protect our partners and families in our absence. These people are in a sad destitute state, and need all we can do for them that they may be delivered from the cruel dominion of Satan. I fear the dilatory movements of the natives will materially clash with our desires, but all are extremely kind. After we had retired to rest many guns fired and much talking in the Pa.

Friday, 1 March. Fine morning. Boys out to get fern root. Titore came to make a call. Intelligence of several having been killed to the Southd. by a distant people. A party just arrived from the interior, came and sat up for two hours in close conversation. In the afternoon a fresh party came who found me reading; they desired me to put down my book and talk with them, which request I of course immediately complied with. They observed that I spoke many strange things, for my subject was Jesus and the resurrection. They were a good deal interested and expressed a desire that we should remain with them and they would work for us and plant potatoes, &c., for us; for how could they believe in Him of whom they have never heard. They said they desired to leave off war, but were afraid of other parties, who would harrass them, as they had suffered most. My soul grieved within me for I deeply felt their state. At sunset a blanket belonging to one of my boys was missed, of course stolen. Old Korokai made a great noise, and set all in commotion. Every enquiry made, but to no purpose. Was obliged to send him to retire to rest for the whole place appeared to be up in arms; great confusion for some time, at length it gradually subsided, like the expiring of a great fire, until all was silent, which prevailed for some time, when our attention was awakened by numbers of groups chanting a certain composition of their own, respecting our last visit to Rotorua. We were a great deal amused with it.

Saturday, 2. Much wind and rain during the night; at daylight wind shifted; clear day. The boys repairing our fence round the tents to fortify against any gales we may experience here as we may probably have to remain some little time. About 40 persons set off this morning from the Pa towards the Tumu, the Pa of Nateawa, to give challenge in consequence of the persons killed on Tuesday; a few shots were exchanged but with every feeling of respect. But very few persons came near us this morng. owing to the scolding of Korokai last eveng. In the afternoon they gathered round and we had much conversation with them. A good number at evening prayer. In the evening the old chief Korokai

Korokai, a renowned chief of the Ngati-Whakaue, Rotorua.

was sitting with a few others talking with us. I considered it a good opportunity to give him a blanket for his kindness to us on our former visit. I brought one out and spread it over him. The poor old man quite jumped with astonishment and was much delighted; truly he could appreciate the value of a present of this nature, yet our words upon spiritual things appear little better than idle tales. He listens with indifference to the intelligence of peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ, and of eternal rest to believers beyond the grave. — Orders given this morning to prepare for the morrow as it was the Ra tapu, when no one was to move to fish or for any other purpose. In the evening great noise in the Pa respecting a pig which had been killed yesterday.

Sunday, 3. Fine morning. The investigation of the Pig's sudden dissolution renewed which appeared to occupy every attention; a great noise. The natives came out about 9 o'clock, and assembled round us to attend service; a goodly company tho not all. We were glad to see Titore amongst the number and others of his party, as it was more than we had expected from the strong opposition he has shewn at home. Their attention was good. When all was concluded I joined Titore &c. who is the principal person here, and had a long conversation with him. He observed that my speech or sermon was good. Poor fellow, it is a great thing for him to express any mark of approbation on such subjects. Before he left us, he mentioned that he expected to go in the morning to meet the Rarawa, and that we must not go over to the Enemy in his absence, that we must be courageous and sit quietly for few days until all were assembled. One old chief covered with wounds introduced himself; he appeared a restless being, and spoke of nothing but obtaining satisfaction for persons who had been killed. It does not enter into their theory of making peace unless they receive an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth, and thus their perpetual wars. We should have been glad to have gone today to the Tumu, the Pa of Natemaru

The entry of 2 March calls Te Tumu “the pa of Ngati-Awa", that of 3 March “the pa of Ngati-Maru”. The latter was a slip of the pen. The journal always calls the Maoris of Tauranga by the tribal name of Ngati-Awa; but they were Ngai-te-Rangi and outside the Ngati-Awa boundary.

, but must obey orders. In the afternoon a messenger from Rotorua, among other news, that Te Rauparaha, the Chief of Entry Island, had crossed over to the Southern Island

The raid on Cloudy Bay. [Smith, Wars, p453.]

, carrying destruction. How dreadful this continual bloodshed; when indeed shall the word of the Lord be fulfilled, when the sword shall be beaten into ploughshares, and the spears into pruning hooks, when nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. What a field of labour lies open before us, and who shall see the end thereof. I have been much encouraged by the observations of this people respecting Missionaries and their desire for their appearance here to check the evil which abounds. All seem sensible of the advantage of our being with them, and contrast our proceedings with those Europeans who seek not them but theirs. A good number attended our evening service, after which several chiefs spoke in turn. One old chief mentioned his interview with his relatives long since dead who spoke of the excellence of the Po. We continued our conversation till dusk. Rawiri mentioned that we should return tomorrow if not allowed to proceed to Nateawa. Several became uneasy, and enquiries in the course of the evening as to the truth of this, and requested us to remain quietly until the Chiefs should assemble and the Rarawa arrive. As we had no intention of moving they appeared satisfied.

Monday, 4. A quiet night, but several fleas in the neighbourhood. Offers of some fish taken yesterday, but declined. While we were at dinner, my boy Patu was announced on the opposite side of the river. He was immediately surrounded by these natives, who appeared disposed to treat him roughly as coming from and belonging to the enemy, tho he had lived for four years past with me. The poor boy was relieved of his blanket before we could send our lads to his assistance; it was recovered after some difficulty. The boy came from the Karere which was at anchor at Waikorire. No particular news, except that Kiaroa sent his kind regards and desired to see us.

Tuesday, 5. Fine night. Taepo the vessel in possession of Ngapuhi sailed this morning in quest of the Rarawa. Several arrivals through the day from Rotorua and Wakatane. A terrible howling most of the day, set up by the women, who are always the chief performers in these ceremonies. This is frequently accompanied by the cutting of their faces and arms, to indicate their great affection for their newly arrived friends, while the men are engaged in relating the transactions of the day, or the scenes through which they have passed since last they met; this is delivered with great spirit and animation. The Chief of the party from Wakatane came to see us and brought a basket of potatoes, which in this season is no inconsiderable present, as provision of this kind has been consumed long since by the assembled multitude, who are far removed from their cultivations, and are obliged to subsist on fish and fern root. The old man appeared glad to see us, and gave us an invitation to go and see him at his place, which we think of doing after the Karere arrives. He talked at a great rate, and said he would wait and accompany us. The noise of the women in the Pa every evening quite unbearable, hakaing and dancing, like so many infernals; they require much renovating even in a temporal point of view, their shrieks and yells are truly dismal.

Appearance of a Gale from the East.

Wednesday, 6. Much rain through the night but the wind died away. Stewed snipe and tea for breakfast. Several strangers through the day. Pango arrived from Rotorua. He came and paid his respects. He appeared quite in another character from what he was when amongst the Ngapuhi. Then he was in fear for his head, tho a visitor amongst them, but here he felt himself at home. He jumped about like a kitten and spoke of our remaining with him. In the evening we had a good assemblage.

Thursday, 7. Wind N.E. Appearance of a Gale. News that 400 men had departed to lay wait for the Nateawa. We enquired into the truth of this account, which being confirmed, we sent for some of the leading men, to whom we observed that we must leave them as soon as the weather should clear up, as they appeared determined to follow their own inclinations. This led to much conversation, and a visit from all the officers of State. There was also a second counsel in the Pa, to which I was introduced. Some urged the necessity of having one or two days good fighting as a kind of finishing stroke, and settling of all differences. Can there be any reasoning more Satanic? I told them that if there should be any fighting on the part of these people while we were amongst them, we should leave them immediately. They promised there should be none, and strongly urged the necessity of our remaining until Titore should return. Poor creatures, they are as kind as they are capable, but in a sad state of ignorance and superstition, living in a careless filthy state scarcely out of gunshot of their enemy.

Friday, 8. Heavy rain through the night. Tormented with fleas. At daylight wind shifted to the westward; appearance of fine weather. A party of Nateawa shewed themselves to invite a skirmish with these people, which was soon accepted. They crossed the river, but each observed a respectful distance. They fired a few shots and retired to their respective places. While observing their movements I learnt that when Warepapa

Wharepapa, a Ngapuhi chief of repute, one of Hongi's warriors.

a chief of Ngapuhi was killed in a late engagement here, that Titore's wife took a rope and gave it to his widow and told her to go and hang herself, which she accordingly did; retiring unattended to a Wahitapu among some bushes, she was found a few hours afterwards quite dead. These circumstances were not uncommon some years since, but lately of rare occurrence, and would not in all probability have taken place in this instance, but as a display of courage before the natives of Rotorua. It was a practice formerly to kill some slaves on the death of a chief, but this has gradually ceased in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands and Hokianga. A good deal of uneasiness expressed on account of the Karere not making her appearance from Tauranga. Apprehensive that the Nateawa had detained her. Began to be weary of our protracted stay without even commencing negotiations. Threw out some hints that we should go to the Tumu, but were told not as the establishment of peace depended upon us.

Saturday, 9. Fine morning. More fleas through the night notwithstanding all precautions. Night unusually cold. Went to see Waihihi, a river a short distance to the Southd. Too shallow for small vessels, but important for boats, &c. Ground in the neighbourhood fair for cultivation, and flax swamp extending many miles to the Southd. On our return were much relieved by the sight of the Karere coming out of Tauranga. As the tide did not answer till 9 o'clock we did not venture to bring her in. The bar was smooth.

Sunday, 10. Fine morning. Pulled out in the two boats to tow in our little vessel. When on the bar several rollers tossed up their heads, but she came in without striking. Took her to an anchorage, where she lay very comfortably, tho in a small space as the river is full of banks and shoals. At 10 o'clock assembled the natives to service; more attentive than last Sunday. Spoke of the invitations of the Gospel, and compared their state with that of believers. Felt thankful in being able to speak to these people of the things which relate to their eternal peace. Conversation afterwards upon the present position of affairs, the unhappy consequences of war, involving them in perpetual confusion, and restraining them from hearing and receiving the truths of the Gospel of Jesus Christ.

Monday, 11. Fine. Natives as usual in close attendance and in general conversation most part of the day. In the afternoon several idle youths crossed over to Nateawa to offer them battle, a few shots exchanged. Towards sunset the parties increased, when one person was brought back dead. Immediately all was confusion and noise, firing guns wailing and howling in a horrid degree. This last part belonged to the women, who arranged themselves before the corpse, throwing themselves into every attitude, and filling the air with their lamentations, cutting themselves until the blood gushed out, besmearing their faces and arms, a hideous form; and she was deemed the most effectual performer, who exhibited the largest web of snivel and filth issuing from the nose and hanging pendant from each finger end. The frantic widow sat in grief upon the body of her husband, a most distressing spectacle, tossing her head and arms around her like one deranged. The Chiefs retired to their respective places apparently much chagrined that we should witness their folly, knowing that we should be highly displeased at their proceedings. What a state of wretchedness and woe, without God and without hope. What hath sin wrought that thus the hand of each should be lifted up against his fellow.

As the natives had not acted in conformity to their declaration to us on our arrival, to remain quiet until the Chiefs should assemble, we felt it needful to say that we should retire as early as possible. None from the Pa came near us, neither was there any noise through the night.

Tuesday, 12. Several of the Chiefs came to know if we were going and with much evident feeling to prevail on our remaining a little longer, that if we left them there would be no hopes of effecting a reconciliation between the parties. We did not give a definite answer, wishing to see Karere off the first opportunity. Numbers of natives hanging about all day, keeping us in conversation.

Wednesday, 13. Fine. The bar very smooth, made every preparation for towing our little vessel out, which we effected comfortably with the two boats at the top of high water, by renewing the ballast in the boats, and delivering it again when out of difficulties; felt very thankful we were thus nearer our departure. Returned on shore and prepared for our departure, which we must endeavour to accomplish this evening, if possible. Passed through the Pa, and saw the widow of the man killed on Monday; she was still sitting by the corpse keeping off the flies and has continued her station night and day, her face and arms still smeared over with blood and filth, a prisoner of Satan, held fast bound in chains of superstition and darkness. Returned to the camp and put things in order to move at the rising of the moon as the wind is off shore during the night. The people thronged around and the Chiefs showed that they did not approve our decision. They pointed to some fires on the road, and said they wished us to remain until we heard from the party in the bush, as nothing could be done unless they were here. We concluded to remain a little longer. Number of natives in close conversation till very late.

Thursday, 14. Cloudy. We determined to wait one more day. After breakfast heard the firing of musketry beyond the Tumu, when the natives immediately prepared themselves for action and crossed over with all despatch to attack this side of the Pa, under the idea that their allies were assaulting the opposite part. They appeared perfectly to disregard anything we had to say, and left but a few old women and children behind. They expressed their confidence that the Pa of the enemy would be taken today. The sea breeze by this time had set in, otherwise we should have taken our departure. Titore's vessel in sight, who will conclude whether it is to be peace or war. The natives as they landed on the opposite side of the river assembled round their Priests who stood in the water while they went through their religious ceremony, sprinkling them occasionally with water, at the conclusion of which they caught up a handful of sand and throwing it into the river ran off with speed toward the enemy. There was a degree of admiration mixed with pity, while witnessing all this. How much more faithful are these deluded Soldiers of Satan to their Sovereign Lord and King in all observances required of them, than those who bear the name and are sworn to obey the King of Kings and Lord of Lords, who are for the most part ashamed of that holy name by which they are called, and do but dishonour Him in all their acts.

As these mad headed creatures approached the Pa, we perceived that they slackened their pace very materially, and that most of them sat down very contentedly under cover of a small hill, but few seemed disposed to turn out to be fired at. After about two hours they returned bringing two wounded, none killed. The firing continued beyond the Pa, supposed to be from the other party of these natives. The proceedings of the morning gave subject for numberless tongues of men and women to exercise their varied notes, as all claimed the privilege of indulging the assembled multitudes, relating the hairbreadth escapes these warriors had undergone in this brave transaction! “The King of France with forty thousand men, marched up the hill and then came down again.”

At 2.30 a party of the Troops which had been against the Tumu came in their wild and naked state, exclaiming that Tupaea

Tupaea, a paramount chief of the Ngai-te-Rangi. The son of Te Waru, he had alliances with the Waikato and Ngati-Awa.

a chief of Nateawa and twenty of his people were killed and their bodies taken, upon which all the women set up a dance and screaming, tossing up their heads and hands presenting a most infernal picture. It were impossible not to grieve and mourn for their sad and wretched condition. Some loss on this side. We were a little relieved to learn in a short time that the bodies of Nateawa were not brought away. After a little quietness was obtained we heard that the two men who were killed belonging to these tribes were left behind and consequently will be eaten by the enemy, and moreover that only four of the other party were killed. We may probably find that even this exceeds the truth. Near sunset we witnessed the religious ceremony upon the return of a party which had been out some days to way lay the enemy near one of the Pas. The party assembled naked, every person had a bunch of grass in each hand, the Priest an old greybearded man and of such slight material that a puff of wind would blow him to pieces, stood up in front with outstretched arms, holding three blades of long grass in each of his hands, and repeated over his karakia, or prayer, to Tu, the God of War. At the conclusion of the old mans service, the party delivered one bunch of the grass to him; they then all stood up and chanted a few words, clapping their hands at the same time, after which they ran down to the river, and wetting the second bunch of grass ran back and returned it to the Priest. I could not understand a word of the ceremony, nor was I able to prevail upon any to give it me. We were a good deal cast down by the proceedings of the day. Every appearance of a Gale; prepared accordingly.

Friday, 15. A most severe night. Wind and rain. Unable to sleep from the thoughts of this deluded people, from the effect of the rain, which found its way to my bed, and from the torment of the flies, which appeared to have sought refuge within, from the violence of the weather without.

At daylight wind had shifted to the westd. and the sun made its appearance. About 8 o'clock a number of the Nateawa came down on the opposite side of the river

The Kaituna River.

, discharged their pieces, and began to haka to signify that they had just concluded their repast upon the two men taken yesterday. They soon retired when these people began to move toward them. The natives have now no observations to make to us; they keep aloof; they are flushed with expectation as to what Titore and the Rarawa will do. When will they know their real friends, and bow with submission to their God and Saviour; but the Lord will be exalted amongst the heathen, He will be exalted in the earth; to Him we must leave the decision of the present contest which was commenced and fostered through the folly of our Countrymen. We must now bend our course homewards. We must retire, but do not retreat. Satan fights us hard being enraged lest these his slaves should become the children of the living God. The people now involved in the war are those whom we have long desired to take under our more immediate care by placing Missionaries amongst them.

In the afternoon I heard that Te Amahau

Te Amohau, a principal chief of the Ngati-Whakaue, Rotorua. He died in Rotorua in 1889. [Smith, Wars, p454n.]

the father of the man shot on Monday, after he had concluded his crying over the corpse, addressed himself generally and said that as he had now lost a child in the war, it was for him to deliver his sentiments and that he should proceed with the Missionaries and make peace. He desired no satisfaction on account of his child, but that these proceedings might be stayed. We went to the Pa to learn the state of feeling, but most were asleep. A few were disposed for conversation, but nothing particularly to the purpose. At length we heard that Te Amahau was enquiring for us. When we met him he spoke of our going to the Tumu, for the purpose of consulting upon the propriety of making peace. He had now lost a son and was therefore entitled to speak and proposed to send one of my boys in the morng. with a letter to some of the leading men and should they be willing that we should then go round in my boat to Tauranga to meet Titore and the Rarawa. The poor man appeared very earnest in his desires and said he did not want satisfaction on acct. of his son but peace. He afterwards came to us and gave the needful instruction to the boy who was to go in the morning. I also wrote a letter to some of the leading men of Tauranga of his own dictation, and one to a Mr. Scott

David Scott, a trader with headquarters in Tauranga from the early 'thirties.

who resides there as flax agent requesting that he would render all the aid in his power. Mr. Tapsel who resides here for the same purpose begins to feel the necessity of the same thing, and I hope will endeavour to keep the people quiet.

Saturday, 16. A comfortable night. As soon as the messengers were despatched a large party of strangers paid us a visit. One poor man was very importunate for a blanket and declared that peace should not be made unless he had one; he came and intruded within the tent and sat upon part of the bed before I was aware of his movements. However as these are difficult times I kept them in good tune and they soon departed. The messenger returned in the afternoon; had met with a good reception. Tupaea the Chief mentioned as having been killed on Thursday was at the Pa and well; only two men were killed on that occasion. The Chiefs of Nateawa expressed themselves well disposed. Pango and others came in the eveng. and seemed more favourably than I had expected; it was determined to send the boys again in the morng.

Sunday, 17. Fine morng. The natives in the Pa very busy consulting their sticks as to the probable result of the present conference, whether peace or war—a great noise. Held our service at the usual time; very few persons besides our boys. At the conclusion our old Priest came and desired to say what his Atua had revealed to him, that there would be shedding of blood. I replied that his Atua was the Author of all mischief, by whom the country had been depopulated, that his own arm had been broken by his Atua, and that Te Aramiti

Te Haramiti, a noted old tohunga of Matauri, who led the expedition with Mango and Kakaha in 1831, and was killed at Motiti Island.

a great Priest and his party, the instigators of this war, had been deceived by their Atua, and thus it was continually the case among them, lamentation and mourning and woe. All present assented to what was said that there was no good thing amongst them. I then warned the old man to flee from the wrath to come and seek to obtain peace with God through Jesus Christ.

After dinner went into the Pa; many disposed to cavil, extolling the power and excellency of their Gods; but were soon brought to silence. Others appeared desirous to hear us speak upon these things. The boys returned from the Tumu before sunset, bringing a good report and that they were anxious to see us. Were much encouraged at the conversation of our people, gradually giving way and desiring peace. It is a period of much anxiety and difficulty to do anything with such overgrown self-willed perverse children, where each possesses an opinion independent of the other, and liberty of acting. We should have but little hopes of effecting anything were it not for the promises of the Lords assistance and blessing. In the evening some of the Chiefs came to converse; tried to prevail with them to allow me to go over to the Tumu, which was opposed, as we must remain until the rear comes up. Mr. Tapsel expressed his determination to go over in the morning. The Chiefs were angry with him.

Monday, 18. Comfortable night. Some of the Chiefs came early; they expressed their opinion that peace would be made and urged the necessity of not leaving them to themselves, but that we must return, and that some Missionaries should be here to move continually amongst them to preserve peace, as by these means alone peace had been preserved in the Bay of Islands, and all the region round about. They are truly in the gaul of bitterness and in the bond of iniquity, unable to trust anyone, and consequently living in constant fear.

Tuesday, 19. Fine. News from the Tumu, that the Rarawa had entered Katikati and had attacked a party of men women and children who were residing in a careless and unprotected way. Two old persons were killed, who were unable to make off. We accordingly prepared to depart, our friend Te Amahau unwilling to accompany us, did not press him. As we passed the Tumu, Kiaroa came to the boat; the poor old man seemed glad to see us, and expressed a hope that we might be able to effect a peace. We had an uncomfortable passage to the entrance of Tauranga, as we were obliged to pull nearly the whole way; wind foul and considerable swell, and the boat heavy loaded.

Wednesday, 20. Entered the Harbour about 3 o'clock; found a Brig at anchor, which appeared a good deal alarmed at us, not knowing who we were, or disposed to understand. They threatened to fire at us; however we laid down and took rest till daylight. After breakfast I went on board the Brig, the Sarah, from Port Jackson, Captain Jack, of fame renowned; he was civil. Mr. Scott came down in the afternoon; long conversation upon the affairs of the natives. Made an attempt to pass up the river to the Rarawa. Considerable sea owing to the flood tide, which obliged us to turn back. Saw Nuka on board the Sarah; he tried to be angry at our not seeing him sooner; he said many things of an agrivating nature respecting Ngapuhi. How perverse is the heart of man to what is right and what a stranger to that peace joy and consolation possessed by those who know the Lord to be their God and Saviour and whose inheritance is beyond this world.

Thursday, 21. Went up the river in quest of Titore. As we passed along with the flood tide I was much struck with the great expanse of water extending many miles up the country with several level islands of considerable size, all capable of cultivation, and having marks of former fortification; but now in a state of desolation, through the destructive hand of war, and even now the wretched inhabitants, the scattered remnants, are closely besieged. We found the Rarawa nearer than was expected, sitting in a free and easy way, living at the expense of their enemies upon kumara, potatoes, pumkin. As we approached the beach, the troops were turned out to salute us, who divided into two parties, and gave us one of their infernal dances brought from the regions below; however, as it was intended as a compliment, it was needful to receive it as such. I was conducted into the presence of the General Officers, Titore, Papahia, &c., &c., and introduced to Rohu

Te Rohu, a Ngati-Tamatera chief of the Thames, whose pa was up the Waihou River somewhere near present-day Paeroa. He had joined the Rarawa. [Smith, Wars, p457; W.W., Journal, 25–6 December 1833.]

, a Chief from Natemaru, who had joined them with about 70 men. We reported all the news we possessed, and learnt theirs; had conversation with the different parties, particularly the Natemaru, whom I now met for the first time. They appeared much pleased and surprised that any European should come among them for the purpose of turning them from their ancient custom of killing each other. They related their own sufferings from war, and their strong desire that Missionaries might be amongst them to preserve peace. I replied that this was our desire, but that it was impossible unless it became a general wish. I enquired of Titore what was the proposed movement, and what I was to say to the opposite party to Nateawa. He first told me that they should fight, but after some long private conversation with Papahia, he told me to go to Otumoetai and say that we should meet them at the Tumu and then fight, that as we had come here he should pass by these Pas and go on. As this was one great point gained I told him that would do for that time, but that we would meet him in the morng. and have another contest for peace and general return to our homes. We took our departure and went to Otumoetai. The natives assembled on our landing and as they all seemed in anxious expectation of hearing something important I addressed them, and spoke to them upon the object of our coming amongst them to endeavour to stop proceedings, that many had been killed since last we were here. I expressed our desire to see peace established in order that Missionaries might come amongst them. I told them what Titore had said. After which a young Chief arose and said that what I had spoken was not correct, that we had brought the Ngapuhi down, and also potatoes for them in a ship, and that Titore was not true to his word. He continued for some time and called upon others to confirm his statements. I at length replied to him, calling to mind the many services we had rendered to them. The potatoes in question were for the boys in the boats and as for the ship the Ngapuhi had come in, all knew it did not belong to us. He soon turned away much confused; all expressing their approbation of my statements. They appeared rejoiced at the prospect of peace, tho doubtful of the veracity of Titores statement; they said they hoped we should return to Ngapuhi in the morning, and acquaint them with the result of our meeting. I took a view of the Pa and was surprised to observe it so much out of repair, the fence in many places was altogether down.

Friday, 22. A squally, rough night; heavy rain toward morng.; wind suddenly changed about 7 and cleared up. Soon heard the sound of distant musketry, and with our glasses observed the Ngapuhi making an attack on Otumoetai, tho with much caution; the people of the Pa in their trenches not returning their fire. As this was an act contrary to the promise Titore had made to me, we determined not to go near him. Much grieved at the perverseness of their ways. Went up the river to Maungatapu to see Mr. Scott and the Natives. I did not perceive any Chief of note in the Pa and but few men; the fences also very much out of repair, as at Otumoetai. Nuka was very civil and desirous that we should still have communication with the Ngapuhi, but all appeared very indifferent.

Saturday, 23. Morning very fine, not a cloud to be seen, and the wind fair for our return home, but detained by the non-arrival of the old lady who came with us to see Kiaroa, and whom we must not leave behind; despatched two messengers to the Tumu to fetch her. As we were obliged to remain we went up to the camp of the Rarawa, not that we had any hope of effecting anything, but in compliance of the wish of the poor natives of this place. Titore did not immediately appear, in consequence of the firing of yesterday. He said that it was altogether against his will, and that it was merely the party going out to forage. As it was in all probability our last visit to them, I called up all my ability to speak to them upon the evils they were bringing upon themselves. If they fought, many must fall, much to lose and nothing to gain. Titore and Papahia listened attentively but expressed their idea that they might be required to fight. Whilst deeply engaged in our council, we observed an instantaneous uproar amongst the natives running in all directions. We soon learnt that a slave belonging to Rohu, a leading person belonging to the Thames, had run over from Otumoetai. He was much alarmed for some time, but as he acquired confidence, he gave a statement of the position of the enemy, in all points agreeable to the desires of the persons among whom he now was. When all the news was obtained which this youth had to communicate, there was a general scuffle for his person, and many of the Chiefs flew upon each other with savage fury, and several were soon rolling in the dust; others caught up their guns, while Titore and others exercised their abilities with unwieldy sticks in driving all before them. After some time order was in a degree restored, when all turned out to Haka. We took our leave at this period, glad to retire from so grievious a scene, and with many downcast feelings proceeded to Otumoetai. We did not remain long after relating to them the state of feeling among the Rarawa, and returned to our encampment by dusk. We learnt from our boys that as we were retiring, Titore and Papahia called back one of them to say that they could not tell us to remain longer with them, for they could not control their people, but they would endeavour to move on Monday morning, in which case we should all proceed to Maketu. This in some measure cheered our spirits. We thought we discerned a ray of hope.

Sunday, 24. Fine morng. Went to Maungatapu. On landing we observed the Europeans busily engaged in pressing flax and sending it on board the Brig. Numbers of natives occupied with them. What an example to these poor creatures; but few Europeans among them, and they publicly shewing their entire disregard to the sacred day of the Most High. We assembled the people of the Pa and spoke to them of eternal things, tho my heart was much cast down at the dreadful state of things in every point of view. Closely beset on all sides. About 300 of the enemy amongst the woods in the rear, and the Rarawa but a short distance in front, and not more than 150 men in the Pa and they in a most careless state. Gave a few words to Nuka and returned to our quarters.

Monday, 25. A sleepless night under the expectation of the Rarawa pulling out for Maketu, when we were to join them. The morng. cloudy. No appearance of our friends, whom we particularly wished to see. At 8 heard musketry in the old quarter at Otumoetai and observed the Rarawa in their favourite corner with their usual caution, evidencing extreme disrelish to partake of the indigestible provision of Nateawa. After some considerable time they retired from the field. The clouds moving from the N.W. we did not attempt to move homewards. The namus so very troublesome we could scarcely keep clear of them tho slaying them by thousands. In the afternoon the Rarawa returned to their corner near the Pa, and kept up their firing till sunset. Sometimes they appeared to be in close action. The Nateawa reserving their fire and sallying out occasionally. Sent the boat to Otumoetai to learn particulars. 2 men and one woman killed belonging to the Pa and some wounded. Of the Rarawa 3 men killed, two of whom were taken into the Pa and consequently will be devoured. Titore a good deal vexed at the result of this days work, and declared to our boys that the people would not listen to him. Every appearance of a gale from the Northd.; prepared accordingly.

Tuesday, 26. A quiet night. At daylight calm but cloudy, afraid to move out. No stir amongst the natives, all quiet. At 5 p.m. light airs from the N.E.; left the harbour on our way home, in all seventeen including Hamu our old lady who accompanied us from the Bay, besides a dog and two kittens. Our boat was very full. We pulled to Karewa, a small island 8 miles from Tauranga. Some of the boys landed here to look for birds and potatoes. Upon the island are Ruatara

Or tuatara [Sphenodon punctatus], a small prosaurian reptile, lizard-like in form, notable for its possession of the nuclei of third and fourth eyes. Peculiar to New Zealand, it has been called “a living fossil”.

, a species of the lizard about a foot in length, which are regarded by the natives as Atua. Strict orders given not to disturb them in their holes lest we should be upset. About 8 o'clock a light air from Southd.; got underweigh and stood on our course.

Wednesday, 27. Light airs from the Southd. About 2 o'clock a large fish struck the boat which much startled the boys. Weather came on very thick suddenly between 3 and 4. Lost sight of Mr. Chapman which gave us much uneasiness as he had not a compass. Shortened sail and the boys exerted their lungs to let them know where we were, but no answer. At daylight black threatening clouds around, the land seen in places through the haze; observed Mr. Chapman long distance astern. The breeze gradually increased and by 8 o'clock we were close to the head land of this deep bay, where we regarded ourselves as it were at home, as being able to put ashore at any time. At 10 abreast of Wangamata, and at 1 p.m. we landed at Wakahau. Proceeded immediately to pitch our tents, as the Gale was fast breaking upon us. Mr. Chapman landed in less than an hour. We were scarcely snug when the rain began to fall violently, but we were in good quarters and the boats hauled well up and everything in its place, and plenty of fires burning. We felt thankful to our Heavenly Father for this an other instance of His protecting care respecting us.

Thursday, 28. A most forbidding night, the tent shook violently from the gale and the rain continued without intermission until long past sunrise. I was notwithstanding enabled to sleep as comfortably as on any night since being out. Tho the sea was very tempestuous, the water in our little bay was perfectly smooth. the boys enjoyed themselves very much, catching eels and shellfish in great abundance. We had a dish of eels for supper, stewed in the first stile by Mr. Chapman, nothing could exceed their flavour, or the abilities of our caterer. Notwithstanding our Gipsy like mode of life for these many weeks past we have had fresh baked bread, puddings baked and boiled—peach, plum and gooseberry—tea, coffee and chocolate; ducks, snipe and pigeons; fish of various kinds, with oysters and cockles; this with a glass of wine, port or sherry as circumstances required and much fatigue enabled us to enjoy our rest at night and to discharge our duties by day. At sunset dark heavy clouds hanging upon the hills opposite to us. Light airs from the Southd.

Friday, 29. Clouds clearing away; breeze still as last eveng.; launched the boats, packed up our baggage, took breakfast, and were soon underweigh. Considerable swell from the late Gale, but passed comfortably along with the breeze. At 3 p.m. fine; put into a small bay to cook some food for the boys and proceeded on our voyage. Wished if possible to double Cape Colvel as we should then be in a fair way to cross the Thames or run up as circumstances might admit. The moon in her first quarter, which would materially assist us on our way, as we could proceed night and day. As we drew near Port Charles the swell was very considerable and the boys tired. We determined to put in till morning; with care we found our way in, and obtained a quiet place, where we came to anchor but did not like to venture on shore in the dark. We lay down in the boat under cover of a great hill. Mr. Chapman not in sight.

Saturday, 30. The night very clear and cold; should have been glad of a cup of tea. The Parrots making a great noise in the trees close to us, but we slept well till daylight. Could not observe anyone on shore. Put out in quest of Mr. Chapman as we had not heard anything of him and passed round to Tangiaro, a fine little bay, perfectly smooth. No signs of the boat; took breakfast. About 10 Mr. Chapman pulled round. We had been near each other all night, but concealed by the darkness, and shade of the land. At 2 calm. Endeavoured to pass to Omaha but as the tide so strong and fearing the sea which might thereby be raised, we determined to alter our course and go up to Haurake and pass across from thence. About 10 we landed on one of the numerous islands where the water was perfectly smooth, kindled a large fire and had supper under an overhanging cliff; a pleasing change from the beat. We formed our bed of the stones and soon fell asleep.

Sunday, 31. Slept comfortably. Daylight shewed us more particularly our position. The island was a shapeless mass of detached fragments of rock, which had once been in a fluid state. Blocks of granite of various dimensions hung suspended to the ceiling by a very small portion, which struck us with wonder how that such considerable weights were kept from falling. After we had breakfasted and held prayers with the natives we pulled up with the flood tide to the place we had wanted to have landed at last night. We saw many fires, but as we approached we observed the people fled with all expedition, and it was not till they discovered that we were in boats and not canoes that some ventured to come near us. When they were convinced that we belonged to the mission they came forth with evident pleasure and began immediately to provide food. They had been apprehensive that we formed part of an expedition of which they had received notice, was quartered at Aotea, under Marupo, directed against them. They treated us kindly. The children appeared very interesting; we should have been glad to have taken them with us. The people here wished us to proceed further up the river. We consequently passed on to Waiau, Koromandel Harbour, several of the Chiefs going with us. The natives as we approached greatly alarmed and fled, but returned as soon as they heard the voice of their friends. This Harbour has the appearance of a large lake, and presents a most beautiful and picturesque scene. We held a long conversation with these people. They were much delighted to find a European capable of speaking to them, and rejoiced at our desire for Missionaries to come in this neighbourhood. In the evening we held karakia, and delivered our message in the name of the Lord.

We observed a poor fellow sitting among them who had received a dreadful wound at the back of his neck which must nearly have severed his head from his body. He was one of a party at Ahuahu, amongst the Mercury islands, when Te aramiti scoured the place. He was left for dead, but towards evening finding himself yet alive he crept amongst some rushes, and afterwards constructed a canoe of raupo, and crossed over to the main. The wound was about 9 inches and must have been inflicted with a Billhook, by which the spine was preserved. It is distressing to see the state in which these people live, they are in perpetual dread of an enemy and yet themselves always ready to take advantage of others; ever at war with Tauranga, Waikato, and until very recently, with Ngapuhi. Had a late supper and retired to rest.

Monday, 1 April. Much refreshed by a sound sleep upon my bed. Sleeping in the boat or upon stones by no means desirable. Our friends talking nearly all night. At break of day after breakfast some of the leading men entered our boats and we passed on to the Southd. to another place, as several were particularly desirous that we should have some conversation with Kawero a Chief of note for his bad qualities; he appeared the Savage, a full quick suspicious eye. Our friends introduced us to him, told him we were Missionaries and that one of our objects was to induce all to live quietly and in peace, and that he must attend to what we had to say. He pleaded the necessity of the case. I prevailed with him to let a Son of his accompany me to the Bay. A general crying took place previous to his departure and many injunctions not to deliver him up to Ngapuhi to be killed. We took our departure under a salute of many guns, and passed over to the large island called Waiheke, much pleased with our visit hitherto. The large island which stands in the middle of the Thames appears to possess many advantages, as it is nearly encircled with smaller ones, forming various anchorages well protected from wind and sea. The island is well covered with timber, besides a considerable quantity of land for cultivation, tho very hilly, and fine streams of water. We landed at the Western end at sunset and dined. A valuable spot did these people enjoy peace, as from the observations we could make we should consider this to be a favourite fishing place. We proceeded on by the light of the moon which had now grown large and anchored our boats between Rangitoto and Motutapu, We lay down in the boats, not wishing to land, but the fleas were intolerable owing to the boys laying so close to me.

Tuesday, 2. Fine night. At 2 a.m. we proceeded on our voyage as the tide had sufficiently flowed for us to pass between the islands. As we drew near to Maurangi we had to contend with considerable sea owing to the tide. To a person not experienced in boat sailing I consider this place dangerous, as from the strength of the tide a sea may be tossed up in a few minutes which would require great care and prudence to pass through. As we approached the entrance of the river, we observed Mr. Fairburn in our settlement boat coming towards us from a small river to the left. We were happy to learn that he with Mr. Shepherd were on a visit here. We were thereby enabled to receive news from home of the welfare of our families and felt thankful to the Father of all mercies for His unspeakable care. Much refreshed after a good breakfast and a little putting to rights. Conversed with several natives here and some principal Chiefs, Rauroha

Rauroha, a famous and leading chief of the Ngati-Paoa tribe of Tamaki. When in 1821 Hongi overwhelmed the Mauinaina [or Mokoia] pa, Te Rauroha escaped to the Waikato, but was again involved when Hongi attacked Te Totara pa at the Thames. Wilson says that here his daughter, Urumihia, was taken captive and Te Rauroha was killed [Te Waharoa, pp6–8]. There is no doubt, however, that Te Rauroha again escaped. There is evidence of his being involved in incidents of much later dates. [See entry for 26 October 1833; Smith, Wars, pp195–6, 261–2, 308, 372ff, 457; Kelly, Tainui, pp350–5, 368–9.]

and Kupenga

Kupenga, a leading chief of Ngati-Paoa, originally of Tamaki, but, after Hongi's disastrous victories, he settled at Whakatiwai. Patuone, brother of Waka Nene, married Kupenga's sister, and was at Mahurangi with Kupenga, despite Percy Smith's opinion to the contrary. [Smith, Wars, p457.]

; they appeared much gratified at the prospect of any Missionaries coming into the neighbourhood. Great abundance of shark taken here in the season of a small kind, which forms an important article of food.

Wednesday, 3. The night very cold and fine; wind had shifted and become fair for both parties. Messrs. Shepherd and Fairburn took their departure for the Southd. and we for the Northd.; called in at Maurangi to see Mr. G. Brown who had commenced an establishment for timber &c. Ship Nancy here. Cap. Dacre kindly offered any assistance we might stand in need of, but we had so husbanded our store of etceteras that we did not require any replenishing. Patuone hindered us for a long time in crying with Hamu our old lady who was a near relative of his. We went to see them in order to break up the assembly; they presented a shocking spectacle, so besmeared with blood we could not recognise any person. Took our departure about one o'clock, wind S.S.W. and after rough sailing arrived at our favourite little cove at dusk; took dinner and prepared for a continuation of our voyage during the night as the wind was fair, night fine and the moon at full. Was occupied some time in fitting some boards on the boat's quarter to defend from the sea. At 8 we got underweigh and passed comfortably along under close reefed sail. Wind rather strong at times.

Thursday, 4. Fine clear night; fresh breeze occasionally but as we kept close to the land the water was smooth. At 3 we were close to “Te Wara”, high land of Wangari. At daylight close to Tutukaka but the swell so very great did not like to enter. Felt very weary, not having been able to take a wink of sleep, as there was no one to whom I could entrust the helm. Gave the boys some fragments of food and pushed on until we rounded Cape Brett about 4 p.m., keeping the boys in close exercise in reefing and making sail as wind varied. With difficulty we doubled the Cape owing to the strength of the wind, and pulled into Maunganui and partook of our first meal for the day. At dusk we again took our seats in the boat, and as we had now arrived at the last stage of our voyage and the wind had subsided, the boys pulled in good stile, and by 11 o'clock I landed on our beach and in a few minutes learned the gratifying intelligence that all were well. It was a season of much gratitude to meet my family, my wife and nine children, all in good health after an absence of nine weeks Bless the Lord oh my soul and all that is within me bless His holy name. Bless the Lord o my soul and forget not all His benefits.

Friday, 5. Good Friday. Cap. Clendons vessel arrived from the Colony with abundance of letters, Public and Private. Felt too weary from being so long in the boat that I could not sleep. Divine Service held in the morning.

Saturday, 6. Tohitapu came to pay his respects, and to hear the news to the Southd. He had much to say as to what he had learnt at the Shipping, relative to the intention of the Missionaries to take the land, and make slaves of the Chiefs, and that we were to receive a number of dollars for each person who became a believer. Tupe our old friend from Wangaroa arrived in his Canoe with whom I had some interesting conversation. Heard with considerable regret of the ill behaviour of Heke to Dr. Ross, as since his return from Tauranga he had been very attentive to instruction, and appeared a reformed character.

Sunday, 7. Fine. Two canoes came over from Kororarika full of people to attend service; the Chapel overflowing. In the afternoon a native was brought over from the Wahapu with his head laid open to the skull by a blow from a stick, given by an American who was in all probability intoxicated; it appeared to affect the poor fellow in a very trifling degree, tho it would in all probability have deprived a European of his senses. Passed over to Kororarika under the impression of finding a considerable degree of opposition, but on the contrary all were very kind. Saw many of the nobility with whom I had long conversation.

Monday, 8. Fine. At school in the morng. Kauwiti and party came to learn the news, and occupied me nearly all day.

Tuesday & Wednesday, 9, 10. Assembled in Committee to conclude the business of last Quarterly Meeting, and to discuss some important questions relative to the children.

Thursday, 11. Mr. Wilson

John Alexander Wilson, like Henry Williams, served in the Royal Navy. He retired in 1832 to become a lay missionary in the C.M.S., and arrived in the Bay of Islands in the schooner Byron. In December 1833, he went with Preece to the new station at Puriri, where Fairburn and Morgan followed later. In 1836 he went with Wade to Te Papa, Tauranga. He was ordained deacon in 1852. His book, Missionary Life and Work in New Zealand, edited by his son, was published in 1889.

and family arrived from Sydney; no particular news.

Sunday, 14. In the afternoon an express came from Cap. Clendon that a party of natives were there which threatened to strip him. Went up to his place with the boys but was too late as the business had been concluded some time, and the people clear off with a considerable number of things; the reason was not known. I passed on to the party which was a short distance up the river, but could not recover anything from them; they told me that they had been very lenient in not stripping the place altogether. The excuse assigned was that Mr. Stephenson

Samuel Stephenson, a trader, who in 1832 opened a trading station at Okiato in partnership with Captain James R. Clendon.

had observed that a certain iron pot which Kauwiti had been looking at a few days before, would make him a very good hat. This expression is regarded by these natives as a Kanga, or equal to a threat to his being cooked in an iron pot. I sent a messenger up the river to ask Hiamoe and Kauwiti to come down to see what could be done in this affair.

Monday, 15. Attended the English boy's school. In the afternoon went over to Kororarika to see the natives; the conversation chiefly upon the state of things to the Southd. Messenger returned from Hiamoe, he and Kauwiti had come down to Otuihu, where they would wait a call from us.

Tuesday, 16. Went up the river to Kauwiti; the old man very obstinate and could do nothing with him.

Wednesday, 17. Went to Waitangi to see Dr. Ross. A messenger over from Mr. Mair, with the intelligence that a number of Europeans and natives were in the act of pulling down the house on the Island

Toretore Island.

, and to request that some one would go over, as it was not known how far these men might be disposed to act as they were intoxicated. Went across but the house in question was down

Thursday, 18. Captain Powditch came over to consult upon the affairs of yesterday. The alarm given that Mr. Mair's premises were on fire at the Wahapu. We spoke to Poyner &c., &c., upon the folly of their conduct. Great confusion. Numbers of natives about ready to take advantage of the passing scene. Dr. and Mrs. Ross came over and took up their abode for a few days with us.

Friday, 19. Went over to Tepuna to see Warepoaka respecting some strange natives who had been brought from the East Cape against their will by Cap. Black of the Elizabeth, English Whaler, and turned over to him as their slaves.

Captain Black brought in the Elizabeth a party of Maoris from the East Cape, and landed them defenceless among their enemies in the Bay of Islands. Only the intervention of the missionaries, and the fact that one of the local chiefs was related to them, saved them from death. They, with others who were slaves rescued by their masters, were returned under charge of the Rev. William Williams in the schooner Fortitude. [W.W., Christianity among the New Zealanders, pp162, 172ff.]

Saturday, 20. Comparatively a quiet day. No particular interruption, beyond a call from Mr. Polack

J. S. Polack, a Jew whose fame is due to his two books on New Zealand. Landing in Hokianga about 1831, he later settled in Kororareka as a general merchant. Busby considered him to be a mischievous influence, and Polack attacked Busby by supplying the Sydney press with libellous information reflecting on Busby's capacity. In 1838 he gave evidence in London in favour of colonies in New Zealand. Later he lived in Auckland, but left in 1849 for the Californian diggings, and nothing more was heard of him.

a settler who came with a party of natives, being in treaty with them for some land and in need of a little interpretation.

Sunday, 21. After service went over to Kororarika; between 70 and 80 in attendance; a considerable number in the place. After we had concluded our service, one of the chiefs desired to know the meaning of the intelligence communicated to them by Tami and Cap. Boulger of our receiving dollars for every tangata wakapono (believer). I referred him to them as it was equally new to us as to himself. It appears that Satan through the means of these his agents has been very industriously circulating the idea of our intention to seize the Chiefs in a short time, and have them conveyed to England, and that for those who receive our instruction we are to receive dollars according to the rank of the individual. Passed on to Tarea, Rewa, Tohitapu, &c., &c.; all very civil, but spoke upon the subject of the dollars and enquired how many we had received on account of Ripi and Temorenga.

Monday, 22. Went to Kerikeri to attend a special committee. Active ordered to proceed to the East Cape to convey the natives brought up by Captain Black. My brother and some one else to take charge of them. Mr. Wilson to be held as a disposable member for the Southd. Returned home by dusk.

Tuesday, 23. Fine. Met those natives in the eveng. disposed for more particular instruction.

Thursday, 25. Rain all day. Met our natives in the evening.

Friday, 26. Rain all day. Met the Communicants in the eveng. for examination; in a pleasing frame of mind.

Saturday, 27. Thick fog. Could not go to Waimate owing to the wet. In the afternoon I buried a European who was drowned last evening while in a state of intoxication. Addressed a few words at the grave to those who brought him over, but I fear they were but idle words. Yet we have this assurance that “the word of God is quick and powerful, and sharper than any two edged sword, piercing even to the dividing asunder of soul and spirit, and of the joints and marrow, and is a discerner of the thoughts and intents of the heart”. Felt great regret that I could not in the utmost stretch of charity read the whole of that beautiful service over our departed brother sinner.

Sunday, 28. This morng. administered the Sacrament to the natives; but five communicants. After dinner went to Kororarika, about 40 in attendance; numbers of Europeans on the beach, indulging themselves in the grog shops which are now becoming general. Flags of various colours displayed, bidding welcome to all who would enter therein; the natives referred to them as the ware karakia of Satan, where his followers assembled to do him honour. Passed through the Pa, a scene of confusion, but did not observe any drunken men.

Monday, 29. Fine. The Active sailed with my brother and Mr. Hamlin for Rangihoua in order to receive the natives whom they were to convey to the East Cape, belonging to Na te Poro.

Tuesday, 30. Fine. Marupo arrived from the southd. with several canoes. We were much relieved on hearing that he had not been engaged in any mischief in the Thames, as we had apprehended; he had not been beyond Wangari; the party was very quiet. Considerable stir amongst the natives, and particularly amongst the Urikapana, in consequence of the illness of Temorenga. They intimate that should he die we shall meet with a general upset. This does not disturb our peace tho we have no doubt that many would embrace with delight such a pretext if they were confident of support. Ripeka, a young girl who has been with us for these seven years past, and was baptised about two years since, went away this morning against all remonstrance because her friends would not allow of her marriage with one of my boys. Alas, alas, alas! This is painful, but she is in the Lord's hand, who will do with her as seemeth good in His sight. The Active sailed this evening for the East Cape, after long detention.

Thursday, 2 May. At breakfast Mr. Brown came with the unpleasant news that a messenger had arrived from Hokianga, bringing the intelligence that Cap. Clendon's vessel had been plundered to a considerable amount. At 10 I took my departure for the Waimate; the road much improved. Slept at Puketona to refresh the horse, and offered a few words to the natives there. Arrived at the Waimate about tea time; all well. All much concerned at the news from Hokianga.

Friday, 3. Wind East. Heavy rain nearly all day.

Saturday, 4. In the course of the night the wind shifted to N.W. and rain ceased. After breakfast Messrs. Clarke and Davis and I rode to Taiamai to see Te Morenga. Found him far better than was expected; nothing serious in his case. Took a survey of the land in the neighbourhood of Pouerua; good, but very stony; ascended the hill, from which we had a very extensive view. The hill has formerly been a volcano. The crater appears entire and the bottom we could not discover. It is more than a quarter of a mile in diameter at the mouth and the sides of the interior are covered with trees of various sizes. Our time would not admit of our descending; this we reserved for a future day. The hill appears composed of loose portions of Iava, with very rich earth to the summit. Arr'd at the settlement by sunset. Cap. Clendon had passed through about 2 hours confirming the account of the plundering of his vessel and that the natives had fought, when 10 were killed on one side and 11 on the other. The natives wish that the Ngapuhi would sit quietly and not interfere in the affair. These are distressing circumstances. All appears in state of great agitation, and everyone expecting some great convulsion to take place. The voice of many is lifted up for war, but as yet tranquility is preserved.

Sunday, 5. Dark cloudy weather. After an early dinner I rode to Maunga Kauakaua; stopt at two places where were small assemblies of men, women and children. Passed on to see old Hihi, but as it began to rain were obliged to make haste back. Held service at 6 o'clock.

Monday, 6. Heavy gale all night from S E. with usual rain. At 11 a.m. my boy Matiu arr'd from Paihia, with news of the arrival of the Consul

James Busby was an Englishman who had occupied various government positions in New South Wales. He was appointed by the British Government as Resident to New Zealand and arrived in May 1833. He was welcomed by both missionaries and chiefs, but the refusal to supply him with military or constabulary forces greatly undermined his influence. Historical judgment upon him has, for the most part, been unduly harsh. He had not the makings of a great man, but he was given little opportunity by his superiors to do anything at all, so that blame for failure rests upon them more than upon him. He actively assisted in the establishing of Captain Hobson as Consul and Lieutenant-Governor, despite his personal disappointment at being overlooked for the post. He became a permanent settler in New Zealand, and for many years took a prominent place in public affairs. He died in 1871. [See Ramsden, Busby of Waitangi.]

in a man of war yesterday afternoon. No letters from England or the Colony. Rain continued heavy. Determined not to move.

Tuesday, 7. The Gale continued through the night with torrents of rain; obliged to remain quiet. This is the first heavy rain this season and will create a high flood in all the low lands which will cause much damage to the crops of corn and potatoes not yet gathered in. At noon the heavy dark clouds began to disperse and the sun shone forth to revive the face of nature, but as the rivers were greatly swollen I could not proceed home.

Wednesday, 8. At 9 Messrs. Puckey and Matthews and self left in the midst of rain for the Kerikeri where we arrived about noon, not very wet. Mr. Chapman accompanied me down to Paihia; all well. Mr. Busby on shore in the morning. About 11 o'clock my brother and Mr. Hamlin from the Active, having put back in consequence of the severe weather experienced outside; they were enabled to reach within a few miles of the spot where they wished to go, but were obliged to bear up for the Bay, having split several of their sails.

Thursday, 9. Rain. Mr. Chapman and I went on board, all very polite; remained on board until 7 o'clock, answering multitudes of question. Much pleased with Cap. Blackwood and Mr. Busby. Rain all day.

Friday, 10. Weather more promising. In the afternoon Cap. B., Mr. Busby and Dr. Hausley, came on shore, disposed to see every body and every thing. Conducted our guests to the Infant and Native girls schools. An invitation to dinner for tomorrow.

Saturday, 11. Cloudy. Mr. Busby came on shore. Cap. Clendon and Dr. Ross called; occupied with them till near sunset. Heard that there had been more fighting at Hokianga, but on the arrival of our messenger to call the chiefs to assemble here, peace was made and all proposed to come over and hear what King William had to say to them. My brother, Mr. Brown and Mr. Wilson, went on board; was glad to remain behind and be quiet.

Sunday, 12. Wind continues from the Eastd.; cloudy; prospect of a Gale. Captain Blackwood arr'd by 8.30 with about fifteen of his officers. The Chapel very full, our visitors appeared much pleased with all they saw and heard. Mr. Busby remained until the eveng. and returned on board. None of the Europeans were able to move out owing to the weather.

Monday, 13. A gale with heavy rain; our projected expedition to Waimate, with Cap. Blackwood &c., &c., at an end, which was a considerable relief to me. Cleared my study for the reception of Mr. Busby, being the only apartment in the settlement which can by any means be given up to his accomodation, and that to my utmost inconvenience; but there does not appear any other place in the neighbourhood where we can deposit so great a personage. We have great hopes of his influence over the natives and trust therefore that this disarrangement of our domestic economy, will not be in vain; but these good people who thus introduce themselves amongst us, coming so immediately from civil life, are incapable of knowing the extent of attention they require, or of additional work they provide. Having been accustomed to give orders, and their wishes are immediately executed, it is nothing but time and a proportion of shaking up which enables them to fall gradually into their respective places. It certainly is a prodigious change to anyone who has been accustomed to servants, to find themselves in so short a space as from Sydney to this place, thrown upon their own resources in a great degree, as the occupation of each European is so entirely taken up in the duties of each day. Often have we had most unreasonable requests made by persons newly arriving amongst us, arising from their own nonacquaintance of our situation and of the offices we have severally to perform, and our dependance one upon another. But these are smaller matters which soon rectify themselves.

Tuesday, 14. Heavy gale through the night and in the morning, the bay in dreadful agitation, the breakers extending very far out. At 11 Mr. Busby came on shore in heavy rain, and remained till sunset. A few slices of bacon and some pipis for dinner; a good introduction to our table, as many run away with the idea that we have little else to do than to attend to our personal comfort and convenience. Pita and Pohe came in the eveng.; they gave a very satisfactory evidence of the state of their minds. At night all well tired. The different families busy with the preparation for the meeting of the natives on the landing of Mr. Busby which is to take place as soon as the weather will admit of it.

Wednesday, 15. Light airs from the Eastd. Went over to the Man of War; the Capn. particularly polite. Continued on to Kororarika; the natives in good humour at the idea of the general convocation. Passed on to Cap. Clendons to learn the amount of his loss and the particulars. It appeared a daring affair; the parties had used a light in the Store, and taken property to the value of £100. It must have been committed by persons well acquainted with the premises. After taking some refreshment with these kind people, proceeded on to Otuihu, but the Chief had gone to Paihia. Returned home. Mr. White had arrived, having swam across Waiarue. The natives from Hokianga at the Waimate on their way. Mr. King arrived from Tepuna.

Thursday, 16. Fine. The wind continued from the Eastd. Mr. Busby came on shore to make final arrangements for the ceremony of his landing in State tomorrow morng. Everyone, young and old, Europeans and Natives under arms in full preparation. Messrs. Kemp, Baker, Davis, Clarke and Puckey arrived; also the natives from Hokianga, &c., &c.

Friday, 17. Everyone on the move at break of day, in order that all things might be in readiness to give our guests a welcome due to so great on occasion as the landing of the British Resident, and his introduction to the Chiefs and Nobles of this land, accompanied by the Captain and officers of h.m. Ship Imogene.

Canoes from Kororarika, Waikari, and Kauakaua, &c., soon made their appearance with the principal men of those districts, who took up their respective quarters and soon constructed sheds sufficiently good to protect them from the weather which appeared rather threatening. Each seemed anxious to learn the nature of Mr. Busby's commission and whether the Man of War was to remain in the Bay, and if soldiers were to be landed. The various parties very busy in rubbing up their muskets, &c., as it was determined to give the visitors a native salutation.

At 10.30 observed the boats put off from the Man of War, under a Salute of Seven Guns. All was in immediate commotion to dispose of their numbers to the greatest effect; all retired to the extreme end of the Settlement, from which the strangers were to enter. At 11, Mr. Busby, with Cap. Blackwood and the Officers of the Ship, landed, and advanced slowly towards the Natives, who were crouching down, ready for a spring at the signal given. They arose with their usual horrid scream, and rushed forward with the utmost impetuosity till within a few paces of our party, when they halted, and after regulating their ranks, with much vociferation set up a Haka, brandishing their muskets, and distorting their countenances to the no small astonishment of the strangers. They then delivered their speeches bidding welcome to their land; this continued for a short time, after which we passed to the Chapel Yard, where all were soon assembled with manifest interest to hear His Majesty's gracious communication. Seats had been provided for the Europeans, and also a table upon which was placed the letter from Lord Goderich, the Secretary of State. After silence had been obtained Mr. Busby broke the Great Seal of this important document and read it in English; this of course could not be understood except by the Europeans. A translation had been prepared which was then read; also of Mr. Busby's speech, which he delivered at the same time. Several chiefs spoke in succession, expressive of their satisfaction at Mr. B.'s arrival. At the conclusion Mr. B. presented the leading men with a blanket and about 6 Ib. of tobacco each. The Officers of the Man of War and the Europeans residing in the neighbourhood, besides several of the Missionaries, partook of refreshment at my house, about fifty in number, no small party in this distant land, with our means of accomodation. At 3 the natives were served with their repast of beef potatoes and stirabout. As our boys have had some experience in this important duty at our annual meetings, our visitors were a good deal surprised at the order and expedition with which this assemblage of New Zealand rank was supplied, as the feast consisted of about 800 dishes constructed of a plant similar to the flag.

All passed off very agreeably with a slight exception. The worthy Captain who could not enter into our views and feelings, had expressed a very strong desire to visit Waimate, and two efforts had been made for that purpoes, but the weather proving very bad rendered it impossible, but as there appeared to be a change, he now proposed that we should undertake the expedition in the morning, sleep at Waimate, and that he and his party shd. return by way of Kerikeri to the Ship on Sunday after the morning service. We proposed that he shd. remain the Sunday there as their return on the Sabbath would seriously affect the cause in which we were engaged. He pleaded the shortness of his time and his instructions from the Admiral to return by a certain date, and as he was exceedingly tohe, we were under the necessity of speaking in plain terms, that we regretted that our instructions forbid either ourselves or the stranger within our gates from violating the Sabbath day, that could he remain a few days we should have great pleasure in shewing him the country. This good man very inquisitive upon all subjects connected with the Mission, and particularly to learn what amusements we had to assist in beguiling the time.

Saturday, 18. Gale from the North; rain; much wearied with the late commotion. Occupied for a length of time with Mr. Busby, and in his service. The brethren returned to their respective places.

Sunday, 19. Wind N.W. As we were going to the House of God to assemble in solemn prayer and praise, the Man of War was getting under weigh, thus bidding defiance to the command of the King of Kings. I grieved for them. Much state and precision in their movements; but of what worth, all external, all superficial, all vanity, and thus perplexity and vexation of Spirit. In the afternoon went to Kororarika, about 30 persons in attendance. Saw Moka and Warerahi; they were civil, but could not attend; it was below their dignity being Chiefs. Alas, Alas. Who hath believed our report, and to whom hath the arm of the Lord been revealed.

Monday, 20. Fine. Attended at the English boys' school in the forenoon; a relief to be in the regular course of duty. Mr. and Mrs. Wilson went up to the Kerikeri. In the afternoon went to Waitangi with Mr. Busby, to see the land which has been proposed that he should occupy; took tea with Dr. and Mrs. Ross.

Tuesday, 21. Squally. Mr. Busby and I went to Kororarika by appointment to see the Chiefs. All very kind; they had prepared a feast of Pigeons, Pipis and Kumara. While here the Prince of Denmark Schr. arrived from Port Jackson and anchored at a short distance. As Mr. Busby's stores &c. were on board, we went off to her to learn the news; found that Mr. Morgan

John Morgan arrived to join the missionaries at the Bay of Islands in May 1833. With Henry Williams and the Rev. A. N. Brown he went to visit Te Waharoa, and joined Preece in establishing the mission station at Puriri. In 1835 he settled at Mangapouri, but was withdrawn at the end of the year. He was appointed to Otawhao in 1841, and for twenty years fulfilled a useful task as missionary and instructor to the Waipa River tribes.

and five Wesleyan Missionaries

The Rev. John Hobbs records in his journal that at Paihia on 22 May 1833, “I had the pleasure of being introduced to brother Orton whom the Committee have deputed to visit New Zealand, and to Brother and Sister Whiteley who have come to succeed Mrs. Hobbs and myself at Hokianga, and to Brother and Sister Tucker who are on their way to Tongataboo”.

were on board. Much perplexed to know how to act, but could do no other than ask all on shore until some preparation could be made, as from the flying reports received from Port Jackson deprived us of that pleasure we once enjoyed in receiving a brother Missionary for a season.—The weather extremely bad, wind, and rain, and with great difficulty we pulled on shore. All taken by surprise and every house filled. But little news from the Colony.

Wednesday, 22. Modt. weather. Accompanied Mr. Busby up the river to return his calls to Messrs. Mair, and Powditch. Captain and Mrs. Wright, and Captain and Mrs. Clendon returned by dusk Mr. Hobbs arrived in the settlement from Hokianga; brought the news that his boat, which had been built at their Settlement for the purpose of being taken to Tongatapu, and was on her way round to the Bay, had been driven on shore at the North Cape in a gale of wind. No one lost but the crew stript as soon as they landed.

Thursday, 23. Fine. Mr. Busby's goods began to be landed; constant interruption. Saw poor Eruana; he was in considerable bodily suffering, but possessing a well grounded hope, he obs'd that he was ready to depart. In the eveng. pleasing conversation with 3 boys.

Friday, 24. Much interrupted through the day by the landing of Mr. Busby's stores &c., and also attending to the Wesleyan brethren. In the eveng. met our Christian natives previous to the administering the Sacrament on Sunday; they expressed themselves with pleasing simplicity. Our work grows upon us, for as these lambs of the Lord are brought into the fold, they need our constant care; they are but children, even little children; yea, as new born babes, and require to be fed with milk, and that continually.

Saturday, 25. In the afternoon our lost sheep Ripeka returned from the country, at which we were much comforted.

Sunday, 26. Fine. Full congregation of Natives and Europeans. Upwards of 60 English, morning and afternoon. Administered the Sacrament to only four natives. In the evening accompanied by Mr. Busby went to see Koropu, who had sent thru: found him in a very pleasing frame of mind.

Monday, 27. Gale from the North; much rain; the wind violent at sunset. Mr. White arrived from Hokianga.

Tuesday, 28. Fine morng. wind from the Westd. Mr. Hobbs arr'd in the afternoon from Hokianga. Our Wesleyan brethren occupying everybody's time, which has been more or less the case during the week. This little child of theirs (their Mission) has been continually in our arms from its birth, and has been nursed and cherished with parental care, but it does not appear to increase in stature or acquire strength; it is now more than Eleven years old and what further steps should be adopted I must not devise, but it is surely high time when it should run about and pick up crumbs for itself or be put out to nurse; perhaps change of air might be beneficial; it is very evident that active measures must be adopted. Seven of the Wesleyan Missionaries in our settlement at night, their movements undecided.

Wednesday, 29. Messrs. White, Whitely, &c., cleared off in the afternoon. Mr. Orton

Mr Orton was a commissioner of the Wesleyan Church sent from Sydney to investigate the Rev. W. White's indifferent accounting of the mission books and his relations with his brother missionaries.

remains.

Thursday, 30. The settlement and my premises in particular crowded all day with Englishmen to wait on Mr. Busby. Interruption, interruption.

Friday, 31. Writing amidst incalculable interruption.

Saturday, 1 June. Writing all day except when interrupted. Poor Brother Hobbs and family arrived in the eveng. at 9 o'clock from Hokianga on his way to Tongatapu; every part of the premises filled. Deposited Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs and children in the Bee Hive.

Sunday, 2. Fine. The Sacrament administered to the largest english congregation yet assembled here. After dinner Messrs. Orton, Hobbs and Morgan accompanied to Kororarika. We met but few persons.

Monday, 3. All the morng. empd. writing. At noon Messrs. King, Shepherd, Kemp, Chapman, Wilson, Clarke and Davis arr'd. After dinner commenced business; determined that Mr. Chapman should take the school, as Mrs. Brown's health continued the same. In the Eveng. held our monthly prayer meeting, more than 40 persons present including children. Mr. Orton gave the address.

Tuesday, 4. Fine. At Committee business all day. Mr. Shepherd ordered to the Kerikeri to reside, to occupy the place of Mr. Chapman. Others to the Southd. Ship arr'd from the Colony for Liverpool to sail in the morning; in a leaky state. Forwarded our English letters.

Wednesday, 5. Fine. Closed my letters for the Colony and delivered them to Cap. Wright, who at length sailed after a long needless delay in the Bay. Visited Koropu who is exceedingly ill and very desirous of persons to see him. Report that Titore was killed at Tauranga.

Thursday, 6. Fine. Mr. and Mrs. Hobbs embarked on board the New Zealander for Tonga. They appeared much cast down. Rawiri went to Kororarika to learn the truth of the news which arrived last night. Titore not killed, but Kuri,

Kuri, a chief of the Rarawa tribe, and a close relative to Te Morenga.

a Chief of the Rarawa, from the neighbourhood of the North Cape; could not obtain the particulars.

Friday, 7. Messrs. Brown, Fairburn, Orton, Morgan and White left for the Waimate, and most of the natives went up the Kauakaua to attend the Hahunga. The Cutter Taeapo belonging to the natives arrived from the seat of war; news confirmed.

Saturday, 8. Fine. Rec'd two letters from Mr. Tapsel, a flax agent residing in Maketu, the man who opposed us so strenuously last year when at Tauranga with the natives. At the latter part of his first letter, which was written just at the conclusion of making peace, he says, “My people bid me write to you to send them a Missionary; if you should approve of that I hope you will send one to Tauranga, Wakatane, and the River Thames; as it would be the means of keeping peace amongst them.”

This is the testimony of one who has been living several years amongst this people, and has tried the power of his abilities, and the strength of his European knowledge in keeping this war in agitation, but has found it ineffectual. What he expresses in his letter I doubt not but is his sincere opinion that the influence of Missionaries will alone stay this destructive work. In the course of a few days after peace had been concluded, some of the Rarawa were surprised and killed by some in connexion with Tauranga and immediately involved all in the renewal of hostilities. In the afternoon went to the Kerikeri for the purpose of spending the Sabbath with the brethren there.

Sunday, 9. Cloudy. Service morng. and afternoon. The weather so threatening could not venture out.

Monday, 10. Heavy rain. In the afternoon the weather cleared up.

Tuesday, 11. Fine. Returned to Paihia. Much time occupied in hearing news from the Southd. and conversing upon the propriety of a station to the Southd.

Wednesday, 12. Weather very unsettled. A thunderstorm accompanied by unusual heavy rain. A ship arrived at Kororarika; a boat's crew pulling all day with letters from Mr. Busby for the Cap. of the Vessel.

Thursday, 13. Showers occly. My brother and family went to Tepuna for a few days by way of a change.

Friday, 14. Awoke at 4 by our room being full of smoke; all in a state of alarm in an instant; found the skirting board in the sitting room on fire which must have been burning for some hours. Had the house been constructed as most of those in the land, it had been in all probability consumed, as we have no means of extinguishing a blaze except with our buckets. This is another amongst innumerable evidences of the all watchful care of our Father who is in Heaven. He who keepeth Israel slumbereth not neither sleepeth. The Ship William arrived from Port Jackson in a leaky state. News that Tohitapu was very ill inland. Met our Christian natives in the eveng.; called their attention to consider seriously their baptismal vow; and to remember they were examples to the people round about, and that they must so let their light shine before men, that they may see their good works and glorify their Father who is in Heaven.

Sunday, 16. Fine. Baptised the Infant of Hemi. The natives unusually heavy and inattentive at service. In the afternoon 2 Captains and the wife of one of them at the Chapel; they afterwards remained tea. Iri one of Tohitapu's wives came with the report of his death, wailing and snivelling at a great rate. I could not for a long time discover whether he was actually dead or not, by any question I proposed, until I asked her what we had better send for him. She replied, some sugar. Koropu sent for me to see him; poor fellow he is fast approaching his end.

Monday, 17. Cloudy. Appearance of abundance of rain. My brother returned from Tepuna; all well. Tohitapu was brought into the Settlement by his two wives, who had been obliged to carry him by turns; he was not dead but very much reduced, and his countenance changed. The William, of Liverpool, sailed for England.

Tuesday, 18. Old Hepetahi and numbers of others came to see Mr. Busby; occupied till past noon with them. In the afternoon I baptised Koropu, who appeared fast declining, but evidencing a strong faith in the pardon of his sins through the merits of his Redeemer's blood; our Christian natives were present. I afterwards buried a seaman who died last night, belonging to the Governor Philip. Wakaria died up the river; a fine young man, and nephew of Tohitapu. His widow and two children came into the settlement desiring to remain here. Had a long conversation with Tohitapu, but found him more disposed to speak upon the affairs of Tauranga and Titore's ill success, than upon the state of his own hope. A number of the natives came to me in the eveng. for a few words.

Wednesday, 19. Fine. Eight canoes came from Waitangi to convey Mr. Busby's things thither; they behaved remarkably well. Tuwakatere &c. came over from Kororarika to see Tohitapu, much crying at his place. Went with Mr. Busby to Waitangi respecting his land. The natives well behaved.

Thursday, 20. Remarkably fine. The Byron anchored in the night from the East Cape. The natives she had carried up had been landed and others had come up on a visit here also two of the Europeans left there by Cap. Black of the Elizabeth, the third preferred remaining. The acct. they give is that their Capn. had no reason for leaving them, and that no violence had been offered to them on acct. of the natives who had been taken away by him. The circumstances considered by us on the 22 of Apl. in a special committee. The depositions of these men will be taken by Mr. Busby and forwarded to England and the Colony. This is another instance of the violent proceeding of the Whaling Captains.

Called on Tohitapu; he appeared something better and expressed a desire that some of us should converse with him upon the nature of the world to come. Had a long conversation with an old lady who had just come up from Maketu. She had been with the contending parties for several months; her acct. was particularly interesting.

The Waitangi mob came and were very importunate for their yesterday's work. After a good deal of small talk they consented to proceed in conveying Mr. Busby's things upon the understanding that a good mess of stir about should be provided for them. In the afternoon Pomare and party came to pay their respects to Mr. Busby, but he declined to see them on account of a small vessel

A long-boat belonging to the settlers, King, Mair and Powditch, which was seized because Pomare claimed that King had taken quantities of timber without payment. [Ramsden, Busby of Waitangi, pp70–1.]

which Pomare had seized from a European without any right, and had not restored it; engaged talking with them until I was hoarse; gave them on our own account a mess of stir about, to shew them that we did not enter into Mr. B.'s political discussions and that what observations we had to make upon the seizure of the vessel in question, was merely as his friends. Pomare remained till past sunset. In the evening rec'd a note from Watonga, stating that “Te Ruatara” (the name they give to Captain Clendon) had killed 3 pigs belonging to him and he wished to know if it would not be proper to kill his cows in return. Sent him word that I would meet him at Cap. Clendon's in the morng. and investigate the matter.

Friday, 21. Fine. Went up to Captain Clendon's place. Watonga soon made his appearance with his people; entered into the affair with Cap. C., &c. It did not appear that any pigs had been killed by the evidence of some of the same party residing on the premises; the Plaintiff was accordingly non suited to his considerable comfort. Tirirau and Kiwikiwi sat upon the bench.

The natives more particularly enquiring after truth came in the eveng. Rawiri mentioned to me with much concern that Tohitapu had observed that it was owing to their Karakia that he did not recover; that he and Matiu had been in attendance three days to see him and instruct him, and he was no better but rather grew worse. I told him that as his words had been rejected by the poor man, he had better desist from speaking to him any further, unless he should express some desire.

Saturday, 22. At daylight the sky became suddenly overcast, and commenced heavy rain. Did not visit Tohitapu today. Rain continued. Much disappointed in not going up the Kauakaua to hold service tomorrow. Blowing a gale from Northwest at sunset with heavy rain.

Sunday, 23. Wind more round, fine morning. At sunrise went up the river, arrived by 10 o'clock; met the natives, who were in expectation of some one's arrival; held a pleasant service with them. They had much to say about Te Uarahi having died and after taking a survey of the Reinga

Te Reinga, the abode of the dead. It was the Maori belief that the dead travelled to Te Reinga [lit., “the leaping place”] at the northernmost tip of the North Island, and there jumped over the cliff into the place of the dead.

returned to deliver his account. They asked me if I thought he had actually died. I said I had little doubt but had Wiro

Whiro was a malevolent god, the personification of evil, darkness and death.

admitted him into the regions below that he could have been kept there. However the news this man has to date has certainly created much conversation upon these subjects. Called at Otuihu on my way home, but few person there. Held service in the evening with the natives. Koropu departed this life, I just in the sure and certain hope of a blessed immortality in glory.

Monday, 24. Heavy rain this morng. Strong wind through the day with frequent showers. Several natives in the eveng., Matiu and others, this lad in a very pleasing state.

Tuesday, 25. Fine. Some of the Na te poro who came up in the Byron came over to see those residing in the settlement, who had been brought up by Cap. Black; those residing with us bid them welcome and spoke of their having been preserved by the Missionaries. Rewa and Hakiro came over to see Tohitapu and Mr. Busby, to weep with the former and to receive blankets from the latter; all in the way of business. The boys employed fencing.

Wednesday, 26. Sually. Went up to the Kerikeri, and returned by sunset. Very cold.

Thursday, 27. Fine. Attending to the boys. Took my family up to Cap. Clendons for an airing.

Friday, 28. Fine. Writing. Attending to my natives at their fencing. In the eveng., Pita, Pohe, Ngo and Unu came to obtain a little instruction.

Sunday, 30. Fine. The Adml. Gifford schr. arr'd from the Colony; no letters. The Trammer from the Thames; some of the principal Chiefs in that Quarter dead after short illness. After service went to Kororarika, but few disposed to draw near, tho considerable number over here; enquired into the cause of their keeping aloof; they replied that they were contemplating another expedition to the Southd. to Tauranga, in consequence of the death of Kuri, the Chief who was killed by the Na te awa. I told them that Satan was a hard master; two bodies of men had been down, several had been killed without accomplishing their design, and their property was also consumed for the purpose of carrying on the War. They acknowledged the truth of what was said, but that they must adhere to the ancient custom of obtaining revenge.

Monday, 1 July. Fine. At sunrise on the way to Kerikeri to the Quarterly committee; arr'd in good time and commenced business after dinner. In the eveng. prayer meeting at Mr. Bakers.

Tuesday, 2. Fine. All day at work; several important points for consideration.

Wednesday, 3. Fine. Concluded by noon, returned by sunset. Mr. Wilson we found seriously ill with an attack of the ague. The news of the day, Mr. Polack stript of the whole of his property by small party of Natives from Waiomio; The assigned reason, that he swore at them. This person is one of those free and independent men, full of threats and great boastings as to his treatment towards these people; and as he had expressed himself thus to me upon one occasion, my sympathy was not very great.

Thursday, 4. Mr. Brown and I went up to see Cap. Kent to obtain information from him, as to the rivers and numbers of natives on the Coast; rec'd very satisfactory accounts. Mr. Wilson better.

Friday, 5. Cloudy. Engaged with the boys fencing. Called on Tohitapu who is very weak. In the afternoon went over with Mr. Fairburn to see Mr. Polack who had sent a note requesting a call; found him in much disconcolation, having lost every fraction of his property. In the eveng. met about a dozen of our natives for conversation.

Saturday, 6. Rain most of the day. In the eveng. Toe and Kotua his wife came for private conversation; much pleased with them.

Sunday, 7. Showery through the day. A number of European strangers in the afternoon.

Monday, 8. Fine. Messrs. Brown, Fairburn, Busby and I rode to Waimate with 30 boys to whom we had given a holiday to attend a Hahunga which is to take place about 3 miles more in the interior. All the families well.

Tuesday, 9. Cloudy. Rode to Hihi's Pa in company with Messrs. Clarke, Brown and Fairburn. Pomare was busily engaged in completing the line of potatoes which were brought out for the feast; he with some others of distinction did not take any notice of us for some time; at length they came forward and were very civil and handed out some baskets of potatoes and a pig. In the afternoon went out to see the Ploughers,

This was not the first use of ploughs in New Zealand. The Rev. John Butler's journal records on 3 May 1820: “The agricultural plough was for the first time put in the land of New Zealand at Kideekidee, and I felt much pleasure in holding it after a team of six bullocks brought down by the Dromedary”.

two parties, a pleasing sight, the first I had witnessed in the land. I tried my hand and found it more easy than I had anticipated.

Wednesday, 10. Appearance of rain. Rode in company with Messrs. Busby, Brown and Fairburn to see the Natives, who we found more at leisure. Pomare entered upon the question of Kings boat and appeared determined to keep possession. Rain commenced which obliged us to retreat. My fellow travellers returned to Paihia in the midst of the rain; not deeming it prudent I remained for the morrow. Heavy rain in the eveng. Mr. Orton arr'd about 8 o'clock from Hokianga in a dreadful plight from the rain and dirty state of the road; had nearly taken up his abode in the bush.

Thursday, 11. Rain all night, but cleared off about 8 o'clock. In the afternoon rode to Paihia. Tohitapu much worse; he had been expressing much wish to see me; understood that he was under considerable fear as to future consequences.

Friday, 12. Went to see poor Tohi; much reduced; I endeavoured to speak to him, but he was either insensible or indifferent to what I had to say. Poor miserable creature; no one regards him now, and he laying in a wretched shed which our boys have put up for him to protect him from the weather.

Saturday, 13. Marupo came to see Tohitapu, who was laying in an insensible state. Several strangers in the course of the day; they held a consultation as to where they should deposit his remains when dead, and proposed to remove him to Waimangaro, a little river a short distance from us. We objected to this as the Cows would enter the wood in the neighbourhood and subject us to many difficulties; it was concluded to convey him to Wangai. Dr. Ross, an old gentleman residing at Waitangi who has suffered much loss of late from the ill conduct of the natives in that neighbourhood, came and expressed a desire that some assistance might be afforded him to remove his things as he was afraid to remain there, and all the people were now absent. As the Doctor had not any means of assistance beyond us, Mr. Fairburn took a boat's crew and cleared off all his goods and chattels in a few minutes. We learnt afterwards that as the boats left the beach, a party of natives landed at a short distance from the Doctors residence, and expressed their anger in breaking some portion of the house, and clearing away the few little things remaining about.

Sunday, 14. Fine. After service learnt that our old friend Tohitapu was just dead. Went to see the assembled party; all sat in silence, excepting a few preparing to tangi; a sad spectacle, without God and without hope. The poor old man had been removed and laid in state, with his head decorated as in former days, with feathers &c. They enquired if they might not perform their usual ceremonies today, in crying and cutting. We offered a few words and told them they were no strangers to our wishes, and that we could not permit any uproar in the settlement; however as soon as we had retired they commenced firing which was soon stopt by taking away their artillery. They concluded to take the corpse to Wangai beyond the reach of the Cattle; gave a word to all. Weather exceedingly cold, wind south.

Monday, 15. Fine. Much firing through the night. About 8 o'clock, Marupo and the Mataraurau came firing, and finding that the Tupapaku was removed and on the way up the river, they followed and at length brought it back, and passed on to Waitangi on the opposite of the river. There was for some time there a prospect of disturbance but it passed off quietly. Drew up poor Tohi's canoes as they had been given to us many months since, and the Slaves were brought into the settlement to preserve them from violence. The love and affection of this people is very manifest as on the present occasion; while this poor man was yet alive none came to see him to administer to his wants, but now he is dead, they are even fighting for his body, and all that appertaineth to him. Learnt that many had given it as their opinion that the old man ought not to have been removed from this place, as he had resided so long with us. In the eveng. Pumuka and others came.

Tuesday, 16. Fine clear weather, very cold. After dinner went over to Heke at Waitangi; saw him and his party; gave them a good reprimand for their conduct to Dr. Ross. They were very civil before we left and we parted better friends. Learnt that Mr. Polack was very profuse in abusive speeches because we did not exert ourselves more to his satisfaction in the case of the New Zealanders v. Polack.

Wednesday, 17. Fine. After dinner went up to the Kerikeri with two boats to fetch Mr. Chapman and things; cold journey.

Thursday, 18. Fine. In great bustle, clearing off Mr. Chapman and all his goods and chattels in order to take charge of the English school at Paihia.

Friday, 19. The Karere arr'd from Wangaroa laden with corn and potatoes. Rec'd a note from Capn. Clendon stating the indisposition of Mrs. C.; took Mrs. W up to see her; remained all day. Urumihia arrived from the Thames, had a good deal of conversation with her and her friends. Several natives with me in the eveng.

Saturday, 20. Some canoes landed at Kororarika from the Thames. Several natives came to lodge a complaint against some stray cows which had been near the place where Wakarie's bones were deposited.

Sunday, 21. Wind N.E., appearance of a gale. Full congregation of natives. After service, Mr. Orton and I went to Kororarika, about 50 persons present. Walked afterward to Warerahi and Rewa; poor fellows, could not enter into our views.

Monday, 22. A Gale with heavy rain. Anxious concerning Karere which was a good deal exposed and riding uncomfortably; could not communicate with her.

Tuesday, 23. The gale very severe through the night; the Karere on shore at the Kotikotinga; she had parted her cable; we were enabled to get her off without damage. The bay in great commotion. Several of the natives males and females came to me in the eveng.

Wednesday, 24. Fine. Writing most of the day. Learnt the adventure of a blister. Some days since application was made for a blister, which was given accordingly, but the patient not feeling disposed to apply it, the husband, feeling that it would be wasted, put it on himself; we have had instances of a similar nature.

Thursday, 25. Rain. News this morning that the body of Tohitapu had been stolen from Waitangi and taken to Wangai by the Roroa.

Friday, 26. Fine. Mr. Orton the Wesleyan commissioner took his departure for the Colony. Warerahi and Rewa came over from Kororarika to speak upon the subject of forming a mission in the Thames; proposed to accompany us if we would proceed at once, but as it is now winter and the rains set in we think it prudent to wait for a short period. In the eveng. met the baptised natives.

Saturday, 27. Heavy rain all day. Wind from North.

Sunday, 28. Fine. Number of natives from Kororarika to attend service; a large congregation. Administered the sacrament to the natives. Obliged to turn two back, owing to their recent inattentive conduct, Hoani and Ripeka. Mr. Orton not being able to sail yesterday, came on shore again for the day.

Monday, 29. Fine. Mr. Orton sailed.

Tuesday, 30. Fine. Natives at fencing. In the evening several came for conversation.

Wednesday, 31. Fine. Natives employed fencing. Hauhau talking of reclaiming possession of a small spot of ground sold to the Society.

Thursday, 1 August. Fine. No particular interruption.

Friday, 2. Several natives come to me in the evening. Patarike under serious enquiry.

Saturday, 3. Ten years today since I first came to the land; a season of many changes, trials and perplexities, but surely this promise has in all cases been verified to us that as thy day so shall thy strength be. The work goes on and prospers notwithstanding the opposition we meet with. Not only does our influence extend, but the way appears opening for extending our borders. In the afternoon went to Tepuna. Nearly met with a serious accident; the step of the mast gave way, and the heel of it had well nigh gone through the bow of the boat.

Sunday, 4. Heavy rain. In the afternoon the rain cleared up. Went to Wairoa, saw a few natives there. Clear evening. Much pleased with Mr. King's treatment toward his children; they are very orderly, and are brought up in the nurture and admonition of the Lord.

Monday, 5. Fine. Returned to Paihia.

Tuesday, 6. Fine morng. Before noon heard that a vessel had arr'd at Rangihoua with Mr. Yate and Mrs. Busby. Numbers of letters &c. Went over immediately with Mr. Busby.

Wednesday, 7. Fine. Went up with Mr. Brown and my brother to the vessel; saw Mr. Yate, colony in sad wretched state. Wind very strong.

Thursday, 8. Fine. Boys fencing. The Rarawa returned from the Southd. to Kororarika with the heads of their dead.

Friday, 9. Fine. Several natives came to me in the eveng.; an interesting meeting. Tepainga gave an account of the last moments of her husband, and spoke the feelings and desires of her own mind with great clearness. Horoke spoke privately of his baptism, felt much encouraged. Visited Wehi, who has been long sick; in an enquiring state; her relatives had been speaking of taking her away which she resisted, saying that she came here for the purpose of dying in the midst of the Europeans, and it was her determination to do so.

Saturday, 10. Fine weather. Rawiri brought a hoe and an axe to purchase a book of the new translation;

This book was seen through the press at Sydney by the Rev. William Yate. It contained Maori translations of Genesis 1–8; the Gospels of St Matthew and St John; the Acts of the Apostles; the Epistle to the Romans; and the First Epistle to the Corinthians. Yate also at the same time supervised the publication of two other books of translation. One of these contained adaptations of various orders of service, four catechisms and twenty-seven hymns; the other contained four catechisms. [H. W. Williams, Bibliography of Printed Maori, pp iii, iv; Carleton, Life of Archdeacon Williams, vol I, p138, and Appendix D, p10.]

all are desirous of obtaining them. Received a pleasing letter from Unu. Horoki came to-day to converse.

Sunday, 11. Fine. Went up the Kauakaua. Called at Otuihu on the way. Kiwikiwi and Urumihia more than usually attentive; between 70 and 80 at Hiamoe's place; there was no appearance of anyone working; a pleasant day.

Monday, 12. Fine. Went up to Kerikeri to attend a special meeting at the request of Mr. Baker, to alter his appointment to the Southd. A full meeting, which after much consultation was acceded to. Several members, consisting of Messrs. Brown, Baker, Fairburn, Morgan, Wilson and myself, requested to proceed to the Thames on a survey, in order to ascertain the most desirable situation for a Station.

Tuesday, 13. Fine. Returned home.

Wednesday, 14. Fine. The boys at fencing. A party commenced digging in preparation for potatoes. Sad waste of time to be labouring with a spade, in comparison of the use of the plough.

Thursday, 15. Fine. Preparing ground.

Friday, 16. Boys fencing and digging. In the eveng. a number of natives for instruction.

Saturday, 17. Fine. Toe came in the eveng. Our natives so urgent for instruction that it requires much consideration how to act with them. Obliged to send some away who came for a single word. May the Lord abundantly water from on high this garden he hath planted.

Sunday, 18. Fine. Very full congregation. In the afternoon went to Kororarika; the largest assembly of natives and many Chiefs, whose attention was surprisingly good considering where we were. A good report in the eveng. from the various districts.

Monday, 19. Fine. Rode with Mr Wilson to Waimate; all well.

Tuesday, 20. Fine. Rode with Mr. Davis and Mr. Wilson to Taiamai to examine the land proposed for my children; found a very good piece free from stones. Much gratified. Old More

Te Morenga.

in good spirits, tho poorly.

Wednesday, 21. Ret'd to Paihia.

Thursday, 22. Boys planting. In the eveng. the Fortitude arrived from the Colony; but few letters.

Friday, 23. Fine. Commenced an oven at the school house. Rec'd one box from England by way of the Colony. In the eveng. several of the natives came to converse.

Saturday, 24. Cloudy. In the morng. at work at the oven. In the eveng. a large fire at Kororarika; the third within these few nights.

Sunday, 25. A gale from N.E. No service in the afternoon in consequence of the rain.

Monday, 26. Heavy gale and constant rain. Writing all day.

Tuesday, 27. Fine. All at work on the oven; finished it by sunset. In the eveng. a pleasing but profitable hour with the natives; a goodly number. Many I trust earnestly enquiring after truth. Heard today that it was Gray's house on fire, and that all were intoxicated.

Wednesday, 28. A deluge of rain during the night, an incessant torrent, cleared up at sunrise.

Thursday, 29. Fine. All planting. In the eveng. assembled the baptised natives.

Friday, 30. The state of most of our settlement natives very pleasing; many urgent in enquiries, and come by day and night.

Sunday, 1 September. A numerous congregation. Baptised an infant of Hamura. Administered the Sacrament to 15 Europeans. Walked to Waitangi; but a sorry attention. Toua from Te Puke and others also in a pleasing state. Poor Wehe in a comfortable frame of mind.

Monday, 2. Natives from Waitangi to settle with Mr. Busby for a raupo house; a perpetual worry till past noon; unable to settle to anything; made Marupo hand over a fee for acting as interpreter between him and Mr. B.; he delivered it with a good grace. A lawsuit to determine between Taha and some relatives of a little girl living in the settlement for having kanga'd her, having connected her name in some foolish way with some food; fined him a hoe.

From the gradual decline of Wehe, and considering the great earnestness she had manifested for instruction, and joy in spiritual conversation for a length of time, and her apparent delight in prospect of a blessed immortality, we deemed it proper that she should be admitted a member of the Church of Christ by baptism. We accordingly assembled our little Christian band this afternoon for that purpose, and gave unto her the right hand of fellowship. The service was very pleasing, and when I recollected the life she once led, I could not but praise the Lord and exclaim, Surely this is a brand plucked from the burning. She seemed particularly strong and gave the responses with great clearness and evident feeling. All have expressed much gratification and satisfaction who have conversed with her. Her history is interesting. It is now about 9 years when her younger sister Piri came to live with us; but in those days there was much difficulty in keeping any girls, owing to the influence of the Shipping. After a short period, Wehe, who was a companion of those who frequented the Ships, came and took her sister away against all remonstrance, and we saw nothing more of them until about 15 months since, when the younger applied to be received into the house, stating that she was weary of her sad, depraved mode of living; a trial was given her, when her elder sister made application to be admitted into the family. She had been unwell for several months, and asked for permission to come and die amongst us; she knew she should not recover. Her deportment was good, and her attention to school and general instruction very great. She would speak to those around her tho in great quietness and reprove any impropriety she might observe; she would invariably give a good account of the sermon and shewed that our labour was not in vain, or her profession mere idle words. While her strength would admit of it she was very diligent and has frequently been required by Mrs. W. to lay aside any work in which she might be engaged.

This is an outline of the character of this young woman, who has long been in the school of vice, and now fast approaching the verge of the grave. This is the Lord's doing and it is marvellous in our eyes. Many are in a very pleasing state. Several of the Natives come to speak during the day as opportunity offers upon spiritual matters.

Tuesday, 3. Fine. Went up to the Kerikeri to a special committee; concluded business in good time. It was determined for a party to go down and look for a situation in the Thames, and also to erect some raupo houses. Ret'd by 11 o'clock. Found Mr. Wilson seriously ill. Great disturbance in the morng. with Marupo on account of Taha who is a forward youth and incautious in his speech.

Wednesday, 4. Cloudy, occl. rain. Boys planting. Preparation for expedition.

Thursday, 5. Fine. Boys very diligent at their work today.

Friday,6. Several natives came to me in the eveng.

Saturday, 7. Cloudy. Boys emp'd digging a drain in the ground behind. Pi came over for the papers of his vessel; a sad fellow; he is now going to the Southd. to see the state of the Natives at Tauranga. Toe, Kotua, and Horoki came for a few words. May the Lord feed their souls with the sincere milk of the Word,that they may grow thereby.

Thursday, 8. Rain all day. Toe and Kotua baptised by the following names: Aparahama, and Hera. The former is younger brother to Rawiri; the latter is from Rotorua, about 250 miles to the Southd.; she has ever been desirous of instruction and has been the means of her husband remaining so close to us, as she would not remove from us, tho he has often urged it.

Monday, 9. Heavy rain all day. Emp'd writing.

Tuesday, 10. Showers through the day. In the evening several natives came to converse, but as I was much engaged, declined speaking with them; however Taui at length came, and looked with such apparent desire for a few words, that I could not turn him away. The poor youth expressed himself very pleasingly and with great earnestness for instruction; he said it was his desire to be given to the Lord, that he might be protected from the effects of Wiro, the native god, the author of all evil. I offered him some words of consolation and enjoined him to look to the Lamb of God which taketh away the sins of the world. Old Aka

Te Akaipikia, an aged chief of rank, who became a Christian and went to live at Paihia. [W.W., Christianity among the New Zealanders, pp87, 106.]

this afternoon called me to him; he said we did not act kindly to him; he was lame, and could not come to us for instruction as others did and we passed by him continually without dropping a crumb by the way. Poor old man. I told him I was glad to find him enquiring after truth and assured him we would see him more frequently. An interesting old man and of noble rank.

Wednesday, 11. Heavy rain all day with short intervals. No work done.

Thursday,12. Fine. Mr. Brown and I went up to Cap. Clendon's on business.

Friday, 13. Fine. Dr. and Mrs. Ross in the eveng.

Saturday, 14. Fine. Interruptions all day with Europeans and natives. Mr. Baker arr'd with Temorenga; long conversation with More relative to his accompanying us on our expedition as he is well acquainted with the country and highly respected. A ship sailed up the Kerikeri river.

Sunday, 15. Fine. Went over to Kororarika in the morng.; very few attended; several came to look on but soon dispersed, except our regular party. Old Kaikohe present. Wai and Paikira came afterwards. This is a sad, tho important place.

Monday, 16. Rain through the day. An American ship arrived. Emp'd writing.

Tuesday, 17. Rough rainy night. Writing and answering calls all day.

Wednesday, 18. Rain in the night. Little appearance this morng. Rode to Waimate. Found all well.

Thursday, 19. Very fine. Rode to Manowenua in company with Messrs. Davis and Clarke. Went over the land proposed for my children; all pleased with it.

Friday, 20. Ret'd to Paihia. How little do we know what a day may bring forth. Some serious accidents had taken place. Edward had severely cut himself. Catherine had rec'd a cut in the head with a spade. Baby was very ill, and Cooper Mr. Busby's servant had absconded, having well provided himself with necessaries from his master's stores, and I believe with some of mine. Mr. and Mrs. Baker in the settlement for change of air.

Saturday, 21. Showers. Went to the Karaka. Mr. Busby in much trouble, his workmen leaving and the natives stealing their property; the prospect of a long residence with us.

Sunday, 22. Fine. Went up to Waikari; much oppressed at the hardness of their hearts. Endeavoured to collect a few and command their attention to a few words, but could not.

Monday, 23. Fine. Preparation for our expedition. Painting boat, fitting masts, boxes, &c., &c.

Tuesday, 24. Fine. Went to Waitangi to see Mr. Busby's chimneys. Showers through the day.

Wednesday, 25. Fine. An American ship arrived; a merchant vessel; not much news.

Thursday, 26. Painting the boat. The American Captain on shore; too dear, could not do any business with him.

Friday, 27. Fine. Went over to Kororarika to settle a question of land which belonged to Tohitapu now sold to Mr. Polack, but opposed by Moka. Matangi

Matangi, a famous chief of Waima, Hokianga.

from Hokianga and in the morng. he appears in a very enquiry state. In the eveng. met several of the natives.

Saturday, 28. Preparing for our expedition.

Sunday, 29. Fine. In the afternoon went over to Kororarika. Grandees attended service. A number of sailors staggering about to the amusement and ridicule of the natives; but I lament to say that this people are acquiring a relish for this great evil. I had a long conversation with Moka whose heart is as hard as a stone. In the eveng. we heard that an English sailor had been stabbed by an American; both intoxicated. Oh the work of Satan, he rages on every side.

Monday, 30. Finished the preparation for the boat. The Ameriican Captain came on shore, and as I told him his prices were beyond our rate, he replied that we had better make our own.

Tuesday, 1 October. The ship Surrey arrived from the Thames where she has been for these last nine months procuring a cargo of timber, bound for the Colony. Parekahu redeemed from her master for a pair of blankets and an iron pot. Met our Christian natives in the eveng.

Wednesday, 2. Fine. Mr. Busby and I went on board the Surrey to learn the news from the Thames. One of Mr. G. Brown's boat's crew had been killed at one of the settlements in the Thames; the excuse given was that Pouaka a youth who had been brought up by me had been killed by the natives here. This report had been conveyed to them. I was grieved to hear these particulars as it shows the jealous state in which they live. Passed on to Kororarika respecting Mr. Polack's land; long hindrance; returned without accomplishing our object. Saw Mr. Trap;

The reputed author of the phrase describing Busby as “a man-o-war without guns”, which he used in giving evidence to the Lords' Committee of 1838. He lived in New Zealand for about fifteen months

much pleased with him, and with the ingenuity displayed in his house.

Thursday, 3. Fine. Writing. Met our natives in the evening.

Friday, 4. Writing amidst perpetual interruption.

Saturday, 5. Fine. Settling accounts.

Sunday, 6. Fine. Hot weather. Went up to Waikari wishing to give them another trial; people inanimate. Wiwia and Tu very obstinate and would not come near. After a considerable time and many attempts found them more attentive; they are in a sad pitiable state, and consider they pay me a great compliment in listening to the sound of the Gospel.

Monday, 7. By 8 o'clock left for the Waimate; 4 in number; a pleasant ride; commenced business after dinner.

Tuesday, 8. Wind from eastd. At close business all day.

Wednesday, 9. Weary with business. Rode to Titirangi.

Thursday, 10. Fine. Returned to Paihia, pleasant ride. Mr. Fairburn very indisposed. Two whalers arr'd. Kekeao

Kekeao, chief of Ahuahu.

and several others came with pigs and potatoes to celebrate the wedding of his son with Ripeka, who had long been denominated a child of ours, in as much as she had lived with us from a child.

Friday, 11. A gale from N.E. Application made for the marriage of Tapahi and Parekahu, also Tamati with Ripeka. This latter match we did not approve of; the youth was so thoroughly indolent and a professor of religion.

Saturday, 12. Gale continues with rain. Nothing particular.

Sunday, 13. Wind changed during the night. Fine morng. No strangers at service.

Monday, 14. Hindered through the day in hearing the overtures of the poor swain and his friends in his behalf to celebrate the marriage, but tho I found it useless to withhold consent, yet met considerable opposition from the boys generally; however as this young lady has been so closely beset by suitors, no less than four at one time, and every opportunity afforded to two of them, who had presented their claims by threats and persuasion for the last three years, on the plea of being relatives, we concluded after much consultation to celebrate the ceremony in the morng. This appeared to give dissatisfaction to the Natives in the Settlement and many expressions were thrown out that opposition would be offered and a seizure made of the bride elect; but as we had endeavoured to accommodate all parties, and afforded them the means of stating their lawful objections why these two persons should not be joined together in holy matrimony, we felt we were wrong in allowing these Maori customs to prevail any longer with us; and as there were a youth and a damsel, both of my family, redeemed slaves, who had given general satisfaction, we concluded to celebrate both at the same time; accordingly notice was given.

Tuesday, 15. Fine. The eventful morng. Much whispering to know if the wedding was to take place. A great difficulty to obtain rings, but accomplished at last as one of the Bridegrooms appeared to possess an assortment. No work attempted to be done by any in the Settlement; all sitting in groups. The school bell rung at 9 o'clock; all on the alert, but again sat down. Two boats landed; business with Mr. Busby; waited long, but at length obliged to request a suspension of their conference as we had business of great moment to transact, and should require the settlement to be cleared of strangers, lest the boys should consider that we had taken an unfair advantage of them; and moreover, as in all probability there might be some little disturbance, we were not willing that any persons should be present, not belonging to us. I found Ripeka in considerable fear of consequences; she requested a pair of trousers, as her clothes would be torn off in the scuffle. About 11 we conducted the party to the Chapel, strongly guarded by the Europeans in anything but wedding attire, as not only the garments of the Bride in question, but even our own would be in danger of being torn. On our way Puariri, one of the rejected suitors, leaped over the fence in full preparation for fighting, naked; we were obliged to be strong and keep him off. I passed on with Ripeka, who could scarcely walk through fear. The ceremony was immediately commenced by Mr. Brown, as it was needful that we should be at liberty to act as circumstances might require. Puariri soon appeared in front of the Chapel, but was kept in check until the ceremony was over. As soon however as she appeared at the back of the Chapel on her way home, she was seized by some of my boys who had stolen round for that purpose; a rush was instantly made to the spot, where we found that the boys were for the most part against us. However we rescued the young lady, and had her conveyed into Mr. Fairburn's house more dead than alive. A second rush was made upon Kekeao and Pana which had well nigh been serious. After all was over, we were enabled to find out who were for us and who were against us, and grieved to observe some who had been 8 and 10 years with us. In the course of the day we learnt that it had been their intention to have killed the girl, tho a Chief's daughter, had they obtained the victory, and one wicked fellow, a slave, had actually caught her head, and was in the act of strangling her as we arrived to her rescue. I received a few scratches on the face, also Mr. Fairburn, but the lady was safe. In the course of the evening I sent a dismissal to three of the ringleaders who were amongst my own boys, and a desire that all disaffected should also remove.

Wednesday, 16. Fine. Little or no work done. Hoari sent repeated messages to see him, but would not; at length Puariri came, and expressed a strong desire that I should see him. We met him in the Chapel, and after a long conversation ordered two to quit, the rest to go or stay as they felt disposed. All very low in consequence of the conduct of these youths. The character of this people never more clearly unfolded to view; of gratitude they possess not a spark.

Thursday, 17. Fine. The boys went up the Kauakaua to plant. Occupied in preparation for the Southd.

Friday, 18. Fine. Taha and Puwenua, two of the Rebels, came to fetch their things, were very insolent. These are two redeemed lads, and one of them has lived with me for the last 8 or 9 years, and one of the first in the school.

Saturday, 19. Fine. Boys returned from the Kauakaua. Emp'd in preparation for my departure.

Sunday, 20. After service went to Te Puke; much gratified with this little congregation. News of a party coming against us on account of Parekahu having been given in marriage to Tapahi.

Monday, 21. Fine. Tareha came over to us. Much occupied in preparation for departure in the morng. Eveng. looked forbidding, did not put my things in the boat.

Tuesday, 22. At break of day appearance better; boys placing things in the boat. At 8.20 having taken leave of my family &c., and our natives, we made sail

“Messrs. Brown, Fairburn, Morgan and my brother sailed for the Thames in two boats”. [W.W., Journal, 22 October 1833.]

with the wind at N.W. which allowed us to lay out clear of Tapeka. Breeze continued favourable and did not increase as we had apprehended. At 11.40 rounded Cape Brett; the sea perfectly smooth. A steady breeze and good run. At 5.30 entered Wananake. A reef of rocks runs out some distance from the North head in N.E. direction of which it is needful to take particular care. We passed further up than formerly. No sign of inhabitant. The scenery very beautiful, but the river shoal, fit only for very small vessels. Pitched our four tents among the bushes; dined; held evening service, and retired to rest early, rather tired, the boats having been previously anchored in the river, ready for a move at break of day. The sky was beautifully clear, giving us every hope of a fine day.

Wednesday, 23. The owls and other nocturnal birds croaking during the night. Slept well, except occasionally woke by moschettos. At daylight all under way; light air from the Northd.; passed comfortably on to Tutukaka to breakfast. Assembled the boys in the shade and held morning service. At 10 moved on, and at 2 close to Te Wara; breeze shifted to N.W. at 5; pulled into Mangawai by dusk; the breakers at the entrance. Much care required to secure the boats owing to the great stones. Our tents soon put in order. Dined and retired early.

Thursday, 24. Fine. All in motion at daylight, and by sunrise pulled out, and with pleasant Breeze from the Nth. passed on to Omaha, our favourite spot. Found it as agreeable a retreat as formerly; determined to remain the day to adjust our things, and send the boys for a stock of fern root and fish; some in quest of pigeons. Our sportsmen soon returned, one having lost his flint, the other having spilt his shot in the bush. Replenished their stock and started afresh. The lads returned early with 10 pigeons and a large collection of fine fish, which occupied them till dark to cook as sea stock. Dined at 6 o'clock on kahawai, which was exceedingly fine, and plum pudding. Had our boxes and ourselves comfortably put in order, and were much refreshed, and everything reembarked preparatory to an early start in the morning; the boys also appeared well satisfied, a very important point. Assembled all to prayers about 5 o'clock, and at 10 retired to rest. The evening cloudy, appearance of rain and wind from the Northd. Namus and moschettos trying and vexatious.

Friday, 25. Mr. Morgan called us up before 3 o'clock, telling us it was a fine morng. and little wind. As the moon had not yet set we concluded it was daylight, and all hurried up. The sky looked dark and hazy, and a few gusts of wind seemed to indicate an approaching gale, as it passed over the hills and amongst the trees. We loosed from our pleasant retreat and were soon outside, where we found sufficient wind. As we drew near the point of land going into the Thames, the sea became irregular owing to the ebb tide and threatened to break on board, but we soon rounded and were immediately in smooth water. We continued on to Motu Kauwau

Kawau Island.

a large island, landed in a fine bay, perfectly secure from wind. We pitched our tents, brought everything on shore and prepared for a Gale which was fast breaking upon us. The boys behaved well and our encampment soon appeared like a little town amongst the trees which protected us from the wind. The rain fell for two or three hours, when the wind shifted to S.S.E. and blew strong. The afternoon was cold, but by the assistance of a good fire at our tent doors we were very comfortable. No namus or moschettoes.

Saturday, 26. At first dawn of day was awoke by the sound of these sweet bell birds, their varied notes fill the woods, and continue till sunrise, when they cease. Fine clear morng. but the wind strong from the S.E. Could not move on our way. After breakfast we went to explore a river a little distance from us. We found sufficient water, and perfectly secure for any vessel, and a place which is highly important to know as a refuge in bad weather. Vast quantities of fine oysters growing to the rocks. In the eveng. we were thrown into considerable alarm owing to the absence of three of our boys who had gone with the rest in the morng. to forage for food. and had not returned; apprehensive lest they might have been climbing over the rocks after birds and fallen. One of the boys was Puhi, son of Rauroha, one of the principal chiefs here, who died a few months since. Had anything happened to this lad, all our hopes and views here would have been frustrated for a season, as the natives would have looked to us for satisfaction.

Sunday, 27. Fine. The three boys returned in the night; they had lost themselves. We felt very thankful to see them. On what a slender thread do all our joys and consolations here depend; how far concealed from our feeble sight are all future events; we know not what an hour may bring forth. My rest had been much disturbed through the night under the apprehension that mischief had befallen this lad, and that we should not therefore dare to proceed on our way. This might have been but was not permitted. The Lord is our Shepherd and our Guide.

At 10.30 assembled in a shady spot and held service; it was retired from the busy hum of man, for naught was heard but birds of sweet and varied note, skipping from branch to branch, as tho surveying the group of mortals who had landed on their isle, and had intruded upon the quiet of their abode; however they did not betray fear, and as we sang the praise of God and our Redeemer, their voice was also distinctly heard with ours, but I felt a kind of indescribable something as I viewed the ground on which we sat. For many succeeding years the neighbourhood hath been the seat of war in its most savage and infernal state; not content with killing but even limb from limb hath the foul demon taught to protract human misery by thus dividing asunder, and at times ere life has been extinct have they commenced the work of cannibalism. Doubtless this spot hath witnessed many scenes like this, but now I viewed as an earnest for good that the Lord had heard the prayers of His people, and that the place was consecrated by His presence. At sunset appearance of wind and rain; obliged to shift the position of some of the tents.

Monday, 28. Woke in the middle of the night by the barking of a dog. At first I thought that a party of strangers had landed, but as the wind was still strong, I concluded it must be a stray creature from the bush. Had some apprehensions respecting our stock of provision, as on our journey to Rotorua we lost all through these merciless intruders. After breakfast we crossed over to the South pt. of the Island to take bearings of the various islands, points, &c., &c., around us. Considerable difficulty in ascending the hills owing to the fern and shrubs, &c., with which it is covered; however our view was good, and I was enabled to take a sketch of the Islands and country around. Eveng. fine; wind more from the Westd.; launched the boats and put everything on board except our beds, in prospect of an early move.

Tuesday, 29. Cloudy and symptoms of strong wind. Determined to make the attempt to cross; shipped some water as we drew into the tide way, but the boys pulled well into Mahurangi by 1/4 past eight. Landed in a quiet bay to breakfast. After assembling our boys to our morng. service, we proceeded up the harbour to see Mr. G. D. Brown. We found him well and living in perfect quietness with about 30 of his natives; he gave us much information and furnished us with a more correct chart of this part of the Thames. We left this beautiful place about 3 for Wangaparaua, and passed over in 1 1/4 hour; the wind was strong, but we passed on comfortbly; we were some time finding a place where to land and pitch our tents, as the coast was very forbidding and stony. Hauled the boats on shore lest they should ground upon them in the night. Was obliged to lay down immediately on landing owing to severe headache, owing to a long fast and exposure to the sun.

Wednesday, 30. Cloudy. Wind scant; were therefore undetermined how to proceed. At high water pulled to windward, and finding the weather moderate and water smooth, we crossed over on the ebb tide, and by 11.20 landed in a small bay of the east side of Motu tapu. We here found a small party with Warekaua. As we came in sight they immediately began to prepare for defence, while the women and children ran off, but as the boats came nearer they knew us and discharged their pieces as a salute. We had some of their relations with us who had been on a visit with us to the Bay of Islands. After a long and dismal cry we had some conversation with them; they were going in an opposite direction to us. Before I left this spot I mounted the hill and took a view of the islands and their bearings, preparatory to correcting the chart. At 3.30 we took our departure, and landed in a small bay on Motu Ihu about 5. We had to contend with a rough sea for a short time, as the weather tide was making strong; but as we drew near to land we found it quiet and soon went to work upon our quarters for the night. Sent off a party to fish; they soon returned with a large quantity.

In passing amongst these islands with a boat it is highly expedient to consult the time of tide, as a sea is tossed up in a few moments; it is therefore more provident to pass along on the lee tide.

Thursday, 31. Cloudy, appearance of rain. As our distance was short, we intended to go today. We packed up at daylight, but our lads, whose independence cannot be exceeded, gave us to understand that we could not move without their assistance; we were consequently an hour and a half before we left the beach and six hours before we arrived at Mokoia,

Mokoia, now known as Panmure.

a distance of about 9 miles.—As the labour of pulling fell upon them, I did not feel disposed to express my displeasure, tho I had the misfortune to feel it. We at length arr'd in a small bason which had something romantic about it. The entrance was narrow, between rocks, overhung with small trees and shrubs. We here landed at Mokoia, famous in New Zealand history, the spot where about 12 years since stood the Pa of Hinaki,

Te Hinaki was a chief of the Ngati-Paoa, whose pa was at Mokoia, Tamaki. In 1820 Marsden secured a peace between him and his enemies at Hauraki, and in 1821 Te Hinaki went to visit Marsden at Parramatta. He returned as a fellow passenger with Hongi Hika, who entertained him at the Bay of Islands. In November 1821, Hongi besieged and captured Mokoia with great slaughter, and shot Te Hinaki.

which was then taken by Hongi and very many put to death. The people in the Pa had at that time about 8 muskets, while every man of Ngapuhi was well provided with everything, fully equipped for the field. The land was now overgrown with firn and tupakihi bushes. No signs of an inhabitant could be observed in any direction. Part of a human skull lay on the ground close to us, which was more than half an inch thick; there were three deep cuts on it from a hatchet, most probably inflicted at the time of the general massacre.

The country around appeared very level for a great extent and the general report of the natives, for we could not examine far, is that it is of the same quality with that here, but it cannot be occupied by Europeans for a length of time, as there is no timber near the place. The river

Tamaki River.

on which this place stands, runs up a long distance to within half a mile of Manakau,

Marsden explored Manakau harbour in 1820. [Marsden L. & J., p314ff.]

which empties itself on the western coast; it passes through Waikato.

Friday, 1 November. Cloudy, uncomfortable morning. As there did not appear anything to detain us here as we had no guide to Waikato, we concluded to proceed some distance on our way. As we arrived at the heads of the river, the wind had so increased that we were obliged to pull for a beach to windward for shelter. On our way we came suddenly amongst stones, when Mr. Fairburn's boat ran on one and stove a great hole. She filled immediately and was obliged to run on shore to prevent her sinking. This was a sad check to our proceedings. We made the best of our way to a beach about a mile distant to repair our damages. The fracture was near three feet in length. We pitched our tents under the impression that we should be detained till after Sunday. This beach, which is nearly a mile in length,

The beach on Motutapu Island.

is where Rangituke, son of old Tikoke, was killed about five years since. It was therefore interesting to us and our boys, who had the battle to fight over again with variations.

Saturday, 2. Very fine morning. Sea breeze set in about 10. Obliged to remain in an inactive state, as we could not proceed owing to the accident of yesterday. Mr. Fairburn occupied in repairing the boat, and I in putting a patch upon my trousers. Our little bark was finished in the afternoon, and as there was no paint we were obliged to substitute candlegrease to keep out the water. Had general wash of linen.

Sunday, 3. Very fine. No native near us to whom we could communicate the glad tidings of peace. Very considerable disappointment but hope to be with them tomorrow. Assembled our little congregation and held service. The moschettoes, &c., numerous, so numerous had but little prospect of sleeping until I determined to fit up a canopy with a spare sheet. When I lay down, I was soon covered with these tormenting insects buzzing around tho I was perfectly secure.

Monday, 4. Fine calm morning. We were a good deal hindered by the tide being so far out, as the boats were high and dry. We did not move off till 7 o'clock. The breeze fair which soon carried us on to Pakihi, the small island pinched by the N.Z. Company. We landed on a fine steep beach and had breakfast, but were obliged to fish for it. We afterward passed on to Wairoa, a river abreast of this island on the main. We went up two or three miles but could not see any native until our return, tho fires were burning in several directions. As we were returning a young man showed himself fully prepared for action with his gun and cartouch box. Having satisfied himself who we were, he came forward. He invited us to the settlement which was some distance up the river, but we could not go as the tide was low. On our return we consulted as to the best movements to make, when it was determined to wait here for the Karere until Thursday morning, and then proceed without her up to the head of the Thames sh'd she not have arrived. The evening was cold, but by the aid of good fires we made ourselves very comfortable.

Tuesday, 5. Had some rain in the night. In the afternoon we crossed to a large island in order to give the boys opportunity to dig firn root as our stock of provision is getting low and no appearance of the Karere. We ascended one of the hills from which we had a commanding view. The Island on which we were was large and abundance of ground for many families; the rocks were covered with oysters and pipis on the mud banks, which run out for a long distance, and the sea full of fish of all kinds. It was melancholy to look around; all was perfect stillness, except here and there a bird, no bustle of civil life. No vessels, boats or canoes moving on either hand over the surface of these waters which spread like magnificent rivers among the numerous islands. The hills in the rear are clothed with timber without rendering service to any. Traces of former Towns and settlements were visible as we came along and where'er we turned, but all were either destroyed, taken captive or fled.

Wednesday, 6. Very fine. Wind continues westerly, and we doing nothing waiting for the Karere. It had been better that she had not been connected with our expedition than to be subject to this inconvenience, as we are expending our provision without the prospect of replenishing our stock. The boys emp'd fishing and digging firn root. All in readiness at sunset for a move at daylight.

Thursday, 7. At break of day all in motion; struck our tents and proceeded on our voyage, having left a note for Wm. Lewington suspended to a stick with directions to follow us. The morng. was extremely fine, and sea smooth; a light air from the Westd. We came to a beautiful point of land which ran far into the sea and had some conversation with a small party who wished us to land and take some refreshment, but we were necessitated to proceed on. They brought however a basket of stinking corn

Kanga pirau. This is still a Maori method of preparing corn.

which had been soaking in water for some weeks. This to them is a great treat tho the stench is unbearable to us. We passed on a little further and put into a small bay to breakfast. The natives here were relatives to Puhi and Ngaiwi, youths who had been with us some time; they sat down and had a long cry. Having concluded breakfast we continued our course with the sea breeze which had now set in. We met a canoe with a number of natives who had come to meet us; they saluted us with their muskets, and we proceeded together some distance, but landed at a small settlement in order to make some examination as to quality and general character of the country, as it had been proposed to establish the new settlement on part of this. It was so thickly wooded that we could not see far before us, but generally light timber; the soil appeared good; in the rear were hills covered with timber. We walked on to the top of the bank towards the sea about a mile, but soon got off the good land, and passed over an entire bed of pudding-stones from 10 to 50 Ib. weight. We found our walking very uncomfortable and again entered our boats, and continued on for about 2 miles, the hills coming down close to the water for some distance, when the land again improved, the hills retiring nearly 2 miles back. As this was the spot where it had been considered the houses should stand, we landed. Messrs. Brown, Fairburn and Morgan entered the wood. My attention was occupied in speaking to the natives, about 40 in number. I felt glad at the opportunity. Numbers soon gathered around and we had an interesting meeting. The few patches of land here which had been cleared seemed very rich, but it did not continue far to the Southd. We now passed on to Wakatiwai; our road lay along the bank of stones, which continued all our way, which made our walk heavy and cut our feet. We arr'd at the Pa about 4 o'clock, where we saw our old friend Patuone, Kupenga, &c., &c., and a good number of men women and children. All flocked round to gaze upon us and our baggage, which the boys in our absence had brought out of the boats and put in a heap before them to our great annoyance. After some trouble we obtained some dinner of which we stood much in need. Before sunset we assembled about 130 natives with whom we held service. In the eveng. Patuone presented two pigs. He expressed great concern at not having any children, as he had a young wife and wished to consult me if I had not any medicine or wine of some peculiar kind which might be beneficial. The Europeans had large families but they had none. The poor young woman was sitting by his side, looking with much earnestness for some profound information upon this important subject. It certainly is a mystery to them how we become so numerous and they so few; they tell us we are like the cattle and shall soon cover the land; we never die as they do, but multiply exceedingly. I told him their great wickedness and abominations were the cause of all their distresses—they were corrupt in all their ideas and ways.

Friday, 8. Appearance of rain, but cleared off by 10 o'clock. Went to see the Country round the Pa. All the low land exceedingly good, but to no extent. At noon we took the boat and pulled to the land we had looked at yesterday, where it was considered the houses would stand. We walked directly through the wood and found it very stony for some distance. The low land did not exceed a quarter of a mile, when we came to rising ground, covered with Kaikatoa—very ordinary. We continued to the Southd. in a parallel direction to the line of coast, and then struck through the bush to the sea, but were much surprised to find that the whole of the low land here was one continued bed of round stones with scarcely any perceptible soil. This fact added to several other objections appear to close our examination in this neighbourhood. On our return were much relieved by the sight of the Karere standing toward this place. She anchored at sunset and delivered letters from our wives and children and from many of our Natives, for ourselves and boys. This was an interesting particular for the people of the place, as they were thus enabled to evidence the nature and value of written characters, by the testimony of these their countrymen. Our boys seemed to look for and read over their letters with as much pleasure as we did ours, to the delight of all around. They repeated them aloud to the admiration of their auditors, who were struck with wonder at hearing as they described it a book speak; for though they expect that a European can perform any extraordinary thing, yet they cannot understand how that a New Zealand youth can possess the same power. Our communications were gratifying; all were well; praised be the name of the Lord. At dusk had eveng. prayers. Mr. Fairburn addressed the party.

Saturday, 9. Fine calm morng. Mr. Lewington breakfasted with us and gave us the news from Paihia. Dr. and Mrs. Ross had come with him to Mahurangi. Our friends here, Kupenga and Herua,

Herua, a leading chief of Whakatiwai.

appear jealous of our moving elsewhere. At low water, after much difficulty, we took our departure; the boys and the natives of the place wishing us to remain. The sea breeze had set in and soon carried us across. The Karere passed over the flats well and we all arr'd at Kopu by 3. The natives here gave us the usual welcome, firing guns, &c. I met several who had seen me in the Bay of Islands. We were immediately surrounded and while the boys were putting the boats and baggage in order, I sat down and had a long conversation with our friends. We contrived to get dinner before sunset, after which we had eveng. prayers and gave a few words of address to these poor people. They told us had observed the Ra Tapu, but that was all they knew as there was no one to instruct them. The Country here is singularly beautiful; on the left are gigantic hills, the most varied of any I have yet seen in this Island, well covered with timber. The opposite side of the river is perfectly level, and an extent of wood beyond the reach of the eye. Horeta

Te Horeta te Taniwha, of the Ngati-Whanaunga, was principal chief of Coromandel and Thames, and claimed to have met Captain Cook. He was nicknamed “Old Hooknose” by the pakeha, to whom he was consistently friendly.

soon made his appearance, a man of Noble appearance. Retired to rest very weary.

Sunday, 10. Fine morng. The Natives congregated around our tents at sunrise. After breakfast assembled all for service; Mr. Fairburn addressed them. It was our intention to have pulled up to Turua to have seen the natives there, but the tide was so late and the banks of the river so muddy we could not accomplish it. A number of natives sitting about all day. Toward sunset held evening service with the people of the place. I spoke to them upon the new birth; it was doubtless as new and strange to them as it was eighteen hundred years ago to Nicodemus; they were attentive. While assembled Parekeawiowio arrived, a man of renown. I have for a long time been desirous to see him. He has borne a notorious bad character, as a sly, murderous fellow; he is now blind. We had a good deal of conversation with him, but he was wild as a Hyena, and seemed desirous of returning to the woods. He spoke with greater rapidity than anyone I ever heard. Many inquiries through the day as to the time when the Mission would be established here. Much jealousy expressed. The natives were very kind. Our attention was called to the cruel acts of the Ngapuhi at Te Totara

Te Totara pa, the great stronghold of the Ngati-Maru, which was taken by Hongi and his warriors in 1821.

, &c., &c., tho it appears that till within these 25 years the Ngapuhi used to be driven before these people.

Monday, 11. Fine. Packed up the baggage and sent the boats on board the Karere. Walked with the old man Horeta to see some of his plantations. The land over which we passed was perfectly level and far more extensive than we had anticipated. Our walk was really superb in some places; as we passed between the trees it had quite the character of a shrubbery. We continued till we came to a small river which runs up amongst the hills. The scenery was here very fine; the hills at the back run very high and irregular, covered with timber; gave a fine finish to the landscape. We here took leave of our good friend Horeta and returned by Te Totara. a Pa which had been taken by the Ngapuhi about 13 years since, before guns were introduced among these people. The Ngapuhi had been sitting near the Pa several days and receiving presents and holding friendly intercourse; and having obtained their confidence, they rose upon them and killed a very great number and took all whom they could seize as slaves. The most horrible cruelties were practised and many Chiefs were cast alive into their ovens. Some of the Posts of their fences are still standing, and from the extent of the ground we passed over constituting the side of the Pa, there must have been a considerable number of people. Human bones lay scattered up and down, and the spot was pointed out where their relatives had been killed and eaten.

We arrived on board the Karere by 1 o'clock and prepared for our journey to Waikato. We left at 3 and were soon carried up by the tide to Turua where we landed, but no natives here. We examined the land in the neighbourhood but found it low and swampy, the wood extending all along the right without a break. Continued our course and overtook a canoe; learnt from them that the people were up a small river at their cultivations. We followed them and soon found ourselves at an interesting settlement. The Chief came forward to welcome us with “Hareru mai poe” (How do you do, my boy). They expressed great pleasure when they learnt who we were. We much admired this spot as the land lay high, was of good quality and of considerable extent. We walked immediately to see their plantations, as the sun was now low. We were particularly pleased with the place and people, a long train of whom accompanied us. From our landing to the foot of the hills which were covered with timber is about a mile and a half, with a fine stream of water winding through the valley. The natives made many enquiries when anyone was coming to be with them, as they were people who attended to our Karakia. After we had taken our eveng. repast, we assembled all, about 150 or 200, to eveng. service; it was a pleasing sight. They were confined for room in front owing to a plantation of corn, and were consequently obliged to extend to the right and left. We had several fires in front of our tents which with some torches held by those in the distance, gave considerable effect to the scene. We commenced as usual by singing a hymn, but what was our surprise when we heard our whole congregation join, and correctly sing with us; and in the prayers also the responses were given by all as the voice of one man. We had not heard the like and could scarce believe our ears. It was very cheering to us, and we believed that the Lord had now led us to the spot where His Altar should be erected. I addressed them and found them very attentive. Many enquiries were made for books and slates. Slates we had none, but concluded to give one of our new books to Tuma.

Tuma, a chief of Kopu or Puriri.

We retired to rest about 11, tired tho highly gratified by the day's proceedings, and thankful to the Lord. We found three boys here from the Mission who had lived in our families for some time, who had acted as teachers. Thus we see the work of the Lord prevail.

Tuesday, 12. Fine. Our natives slept around, and after morning prayers with these people, we took leave about 7 o'clock and pulled up the river with the flood tide. The scenery was beautiful. The land was perfectly level on each side of the river; on the right the wood continued and stretched along to the S.E. On the left, the hills were our boundary at a short distance with woods here and there. We did not remain at Te Kari Pa, as the people were all dispersed at their plantations. The river here narrowed with the trees hanging over the bank on each side. We landed about noon at a place where was a small party clearing ground, as the tide was making strong against us; the people were uninteresting. At 4 we again entered our boats and pulled on generally in S.E. direction. A little before sunset we landed for the night on the left bank, a fine, clear spot; an extensive tract of level ground here presented itself to view. We pitched our tents and had dinner between 8 and 9 o'clock. Fried eels, plum pudding and coffee. Various accounts of our road which lies before us; by some we have more days journey to accomplish now to our desired goal than when we set out. Fires very comfortable this evening.

Wednesday, 13. Fine. Slept soundly. Took breakfast before moving, to allow time for the tide to flow. We arr'd at Rau Pa by 9 o'clock. No one here, nor any fences up to indicate a Fortress. Our pull magnificent. Trees of various kinds spreading their branches over the river and occasionally the Kowai was very conspicuous whose tender boughs hung elegantly over the stream like the weeping willow gave a beautiful variety very different from anything I have seen to the Northd. The creeping plants of which there are vast varieties were here in full bloom. The land on either side of the same character as yesterday. Several places on the banks cleared for cultivation, and small parties of natives. A pleasing circumstance, as we see thereby that they are beginning to live in greater security. We arrived at Wanake by 10.15; a party of the Wakatohe. We landed for a few minutes but were afraid to remain owing to the reported length of our journey. At 11 we landed to dine and rest the lads who had been pulling hard all the morning, and against the current, and we had now arrived beyond the influence of the tide. At 2 came into a clear country. No trees on either side. In about an hour we again entered a wood and continued on to Tirau. We landed for a short time, but few natives present, as they were all at a distance. Our guide was very solicitous that we should remain here, but after much persuasion we again moved on up the winding stream, sometimes steering West, and again S.E. We landed for the night at 4.30 as the boys said it was going to rain.

Thursday, 14. Fine. Left our quarters at 6, and at 7.30 landed at Te Ruakoawa, our course sometimes N.E., S.E., South. We here secured the boats and concealed the paddles, &c., &c., and prepared for our march. Took breakfast and left at 9.30. The day was the hottest we have experienced for a long time; not a cloud, nor a breeze. Our attention was called to the ascending of a column at no great distance from us, which we at first concluded to be smoke, but was discovered to be the ashes of firn carried up by a whirlwind; it appeared very remarkable, for there was not a breath of air near us. There were two other columns at some distance. We halted at 2 o'clock for dinner at the edge of a wood, much overcome with the heat, but thankful for the retreat; it was refreshing. Our guide here left us to proceed on to Waharoa,

Te Waharoa, the famous Ngati-Haua chief, whose pa was at Matamata. A skilful general and a man of great courage, he was one of the great chiefs of his day. His prowess as a warrior won him great victories, and made him feared by both those whom he conquered and those with whom he fought in the Waikato, Thames, Bay of Plenty and Rotorua areas. [See Wilson, Te Waharoa. This book is not always accurate in details.]

by which we inferred that the distance was not so very great. He went forward to apprize him of our approach. Four strangers arr'd who informed us that the old man was near at hand, and pointed out a wood where he resided. We were well refreshed by 4, and at dusk turned aside to go down to the bank of the river for the night. We here stumbled upon four Europeans and a few of their natives; they were civil. We soon pitched our tents, lit up some fires, took a good wash, and had supper. The natives had prayers this evening by themselves, and while singing the hymn, the Europeans, who were near us in a raupo house, and who rank amongst the New Zealand merchants, struck up their vocal powers, and gave us the well known ballad, Old King Cole was a merry old soul And a merry old soul was he, &c., &c.

The land over which we came today was perfectly level with a few swamps; our course S.S.E.; a chain of high irregular hills close on the left, under which the river winds its way. Several places pointed out where battles had been fought. Great men had fallen and murderous scenes taken place.

Friday, 15. Did not move until late understanding that the place we were going to was only short distance. We passed through many swamps; the last was very deep, but I was carried comfortably over by the aid of two poles, tho the bearers frequently sank in the mud up to the chest. We entered a wood, and soon found ourselves at the cultivation of the old man Waharoa, who was sitting in state in the midst of his nobles. We were here welcomed graciously and potatoes and a pig soon handed for us. After taking some refreshment we all passed on to Matamata,

The site of this pa is now known as Waharoa. It is just north of the Waharoa railway station.

the Pa. We here pitched our tents in a clear spot; a good assemblage watching our movements with much interest. In the eveng. worship held here for the first time, to the one true and only God. Mr. Fairburn addressed them.

Saturday, 16. Rain commenced in the night; lay comfortably till morng. when I found a serious leak over my bed. The old man appeared early at the tent door. I had a long conversation with him. About 10 the weather cleared up; took a short turn to see where we were. The land very good, and cultivation extensive. The natives related many sad accounts of attacks having been made upon them by the people of the Thames and Ngapuhi, particularly at the time when the expedition went against Tauranga; a party made a sudden attack upon this place under the idea that there were but few men here; they ret'd however without effecting much mischief. In the afternoon sent a blanket to Waharoa as a present in return for his attention to us. Many natives around all the afternoon. Before sunset assembled all to prayer; very attentive. I spoke to them for a short time and particularly told them to remember that tomorrow would be the Ra Tapu; they expressed much pleasure, and spoke for a Missionary to abide with them. We obtained a good deal of information as to the situation of this people.

Sunday, 17. Fine morng. The natives soon gathered round. We endeavoured to assemble the people in a large new house which was not quite finished, but this was objected to, as it was tapud yet, and the women must not enter; the men might do so. This was sufficient for us to wave the question. We therefore congregated together beneath the trees in an adjoining wood, and held our service; all very attentive. Our old friend Waharoa appeared much interested and asked many significant questions, and at last enquired what they were to do without a Missionary to teach them. This man has been a great warrior and it is highly gratifying to see him thus as a little child making enquiries. Our congregation formed a pleasing picture; it was composed of all ages, and many were perched upon the branches and stumps of trees. In the eveng. again assembled for prayer. I addressed them. The old man was again foremost in his enquiries. We were all highly delighted with him; he was desirous that we should remain and he would conduct us to the various places of Waikato, but we cannot remain, our time is expended. The leading men spoke of the necessity of seeing those of Natemaru, that they might not be tutu, vexatious, towards them, as heretofore, and gave an invitation to any of the chiefs of Ngapuhi to come that a good understanding might be established, and all fighting cease. They pleaded hard for a Missionary. I trust the establishing a station in the Thames and in Waikato will be attended with great beneficial effects. May the Lord hear our prayers and crown our feeble efforts with success.

Waharoa is a venerable grey bearded man, bold, determined in his undertakings, and possessed of much natural good sense. Our conversation continued till dusk.

Monday, 18. Fine. At 5.30 all on the move homewards. The old man accompanied us three miles on our road through the first swamp; it was a dirty place; with difficulty we crossed. The old man very particular in his last injunction to return to him and bring with us some of the Chiefs of Natemaru and Ngapuhi. He was very kind, and gave us 2 small pigs and 2 baskets of potatoes tho there is scarcely a basket to be obtained, as all are planted. We arr'd at a wood where we dined, in 4 hours from breakfast, and at 5 we brought up on the edge of a wood, our boys appearing tired. Our distance today 18 miles, through several swamps and some little wood. Our boys commenced immediately to kill and clean one of the pigs, and to pitch our tents. We were soon in snug quarters, and passed an agreeable evening. The night air cool, fires beneficial.

Tuesday, 19. Passed a refreshing night. At 5.20 were on the move toward the boats, and after two hours' walk, and occly. through some short swamps, we arr'd at the boats, thankful to find all safe. Our distance from Matamata computed at 25 miles. After a good wash in the river, of which we all stood much in need, took breakfast and proceeded down the stream, and by 6 o'clock we entered the creek leading to Te Puriri.

Te Puriri was chosen as the site for the mission station because of its central position. The Hauraki [Thames] Maoris were of four main tribes: Ngati-Maru, Ngati-Paoa, Ngati-Whanaunga and Ngati-Tamatera.

Our distance on the river, as near as we could determine, must have been 40 miles. Our movements here rec'd considerable check as the tide was out and not room for the boats. We with great difficulty effected a landing by laying down a quantity of firn tops on the mud. Took supper and lay down till high water and then moved up the river.

Wednesday, 20. Fine. Natives around at first peep of day, wishing to hear the news. After breakfast, previous to our entering on any arrangement with the Natives of the place, we held a council as to the most desirous place of all we had seen in the Thames upon which to form the proposed station, when it was concluded that none has presented itself equal to the one we now are at. We accordingly took a survey of the ground wishing to give the Natives some idea as to the portion required. We walked to the wood in the rear and signified our wishes. There did not appear any objection, and with the wood there is level land in abundance fit for any purpose with fresh water streams running in various directions. Orders were given for the erection of three houses. Assembled the natives in the eveng., and spoke to them as usual. This place tho deficient in some points yet possesses many important advantages; it is central, and will stand between these parties as a restorer of wounded feelings which have long existed between these people, even the tribes of this River, who have but one common enemy, the Nateawa, Waikato, and Ngapuhi.

Thursday, 21. Much rain through the night, which cleared off at daylight. The people in general consultation as to the erection of the houses; some of the old women very vociferous in their harangue. At high water took leave of these people, with many expressions of regard on their part, and many desires on ours that they might be blessed with every spiritual blessing. In two hours arr'd on board the Karere laying off Kopu

Kopu, the second Thames mission station.

; all well. We immediately commenced our preparations for departure in the morng. should the weather permit, which however did not look very promising. Mr. Fairburn and I remained on board to put everything in order. Messrs. Brown and Morgan took up their abode on shore.

Friday, 22. Rough night. Rose at daylight, and found the little vessel dancing in good stile, laying across the tide. No moving out today; wind directly against us and strong. We shifted our quarters to the shore, a quiet exchange. Rain commenced. Not many natives in the Pa. A long discussion upon the murder which took place here a few months since. Determined therefore not to take anyone with us from hence, tho several applied to return with us.

Saturday, 23. Much wind and rain through the night. No appearance of moving. Some few natives in the course of the day uncivil in their behaviour and importunate for payment for wood and water required by us and the little vessel. In the eveng. several strangers, Porua

Porua, a chief of Kopu.

, &c., &c. Had long conversation with them upon their sad and wretched state. They replied they were very well before the Europeans came, and brought muskets to Ngapuhi; and the god of the Europeans, “Warake"

This is probably a corruption of the term ariki as applied to Jesus Christ. A common phrase on missionary lips was “to tatou Ariki” [our Lord], and the final u of tatou was often carried over by European speakers of Maori as an initial w to ariki. This mispronunciation is still often heard.

, had carried off great numbers in sickness. They acknowledged however that the news we had now brought them was good and they hoped all would attend. It is a lamentable truth that wherever we find Europeans void of religious feeling to be established, the natives are far worse, their manners more insolent, more corrupt, than those who are more remote. Many natives sitting round till late, deeply grounded in the superstition of Makutu, &c., &c.

Sunday, 24. Fine. Wind more modt. Horeta came this morning. Messrs. Brown, Fairburn and Morgan went to a settlement about 8 miles on the coast to the Northd. and some of our natives to Puriri. While at service our old friend Urumihia came in her canoe. She was very gracious and continued with us all day. Our congregation small. In the afternoon called on the young man residing here as Flax agent.

Probably Chapman. [Smith, Wars, p447.]

Several youths at work fencing on his premises. Weather more promising for a departure in the morning.

Monday, 25. Our hopes of moving vanish by a strong breeze from N.N.W. Weather very warm. Our friend Horeta took his departure for his plantations.

Tuesday, 26. Heavy gale through the night with rain. At daylight ceased, and at 9 more promising; proposed to make the attempt to cross to Wakatiwai. Went to the Karere and having put our provision in order pulled out at the latter part of the ebb, and after 5 hours struggle with the wind and tide and two hours sailing we landed near Warekaua to dinner. We met here a number of men women and children. They enquired the news from the river and Waikato. We gave them a few words upon eternal things, and took our departure at 9, wishing to avail ourselves of the breeze, now fair. We called at a place where Herua was residing and left word for him to join us in the morning. We could not land owing to the stones on the beach.

Wednesday, 27. A most lovely night; the moon shone bright. It was after midnight when we landed at Pakihi the nearest Island. We soon kindled good fires, pitched our tents, and after a Cup of Coffee retired to rest. Herua with a large party arr'd before 8 o'clock and brought the two boys left behind. They were much disappointed when told that the Mission would be established amongst another tribe. At noon landed on west end of Waiheke wind having shifted to N.W., by which our hopes of reaching home this week are all blighted. After refreshing the boys and ourselves, we again put off at 3.30 for Motu tapu; flood tide. Several dangerous rocks were with difficulty avoided. As we passed along we found ourselves suddenly in a race and the sea boiling in a frightful manner. We felt thankful the distance was not great and we soon pulled clear. The boys were a little alarmed and extolled the merits of the boat in being able to accomplish such wonders as had she been a canoe we must have been upset. We landed on Motu tapu in a lovely retired sheltered spot, where the clematis and convolvulus and other creeping plants hung beautifully around. On the opposite side of the small channel to where we landed was Rangitoto. While the boys were arranging the tents and our supper, we crossed over to make some examination of this strange place of which we had heard much, as the natives described it as being impossible to walk there owing to the wounds inflicted on the feet by the rocks, and indeed no wonder, for the character of the place was as totally different from any land around us as was possible to imagine. The island is one pile of lava in blocks, and masses of various sizes, in all shapes and descriptions, which have been torn asunder at some subsequent age. Some resembled dross from a furnace; the small points and corners of which were so sharp, that it is almost impossible for a native foot to escape. Walking upon the edge of oyster shells must be a trifle to this. At sunset appearance of a Gale from the Northd.; prepared accordingly. Our distance today about 18 miles; from home 150. Anxious to hear from thence.

Thursday, 28. Quiet and refreshing rest. A Gale at North; the summit of Rangitoto enveloped in clouds. Walked across the narrow channel which was dry to examine more particularly this curious place. Notwithstanding the stones lay in huge masses with frequent openings and fissures, the depth of which could not be ascertained, yet bushes and shrubs appear to cover the whole island. I was enabled to obtain some good specimens, the best I ever saw and as fresh as tho but just set. In many places it lay like the foaming sea, and many large flakes like the feathered wave when driven by a strong wind. I had now more leisure to view and contemplate this wonder of the Great Maker of all. In all parts of New Zealand are volcanic remains but none like this which retains such strong evidence of the liquid state of this matter. In the afternoon heavy rain; our fires were very necessary and comfortable.

Friday, 29. This morng. wind shifted to S.W. but too strong to venture across to Wangaparaua. Went over to Rangitoto to explore, and certainly these wonders of the Almighty as here displayed must strike the beholder with awe. We walked about a mile toward the mount over broken lava which required our utmost circumspection lest we shd. fall into some abyss below. We were much assisted by the bushes in our progress over these huge masses. We at length arr'd at a clear open space, many acres, which appeared like newly broken ground; it was free from moss or vegetation of any kind except in a few small patches where were some plants as tho left by design. I was much struck with this variation from the general disorder around. In the afternoon the weather was more moderate; prepared for a move at high water, as we concluded the wind would die away in the evening. At 9, left this place; but little wind. Crossed comfortably by midnight to Wangaparaoa.

Saturday, 30. Fine night. At 3 entered Mahurangi; discovered it with difficulty; lit fires, and lay down to take some rest. At 7 proceeded to Mr. G. D. Brown. We did not long remain here. At 2 arrived at Omaha. Wind south. No Karere here. Took a hurried dinner and continued our course toward home. We entered Wangamata at dusk. The breakers were running in an ugly way at the mouth of the river, but the flood tide soon carried us in when we took possession of our old quarters and enlivened the scene by good fires plentifully supplied with wood. Night cold. We felt thankful we were thus far on our way; 59 miles since 9 last eveng.

Sunday, 1 December. Fine. All weary. Held comfortable service with our boys. Saw Karere some distance in the offing, standing to the Northd.; wind N.E. Fearful of another detention. May the Lord forbid it. At sunset clouds moving fast from the Eastd.

Monday, 2. Fine night. At 2 all in motion preparing for departure. Pulled out of this ugly place at low water. The breakers extending across the river but passed out well. Continued our course with a little wind to Tutukaka where we arr'd by 11 o'clock to breakfast. We here remained 3 hours to rest the boys who had been pulling all the morning. In the afternoon again proceeded on our way; little wind but considerable swell. At sunset landed on a quiet beach, boys too tired to continue. No wind; threatened for rain.

Tuesday, 3. Fine. At 2 all on the move and in good spirits, in the expectation of being home in a few hours. Breeze south, which carried us by 8 o'clock round Cape Brett, and into smooth water. As the Karere hove in sight we waited for her, and landed on one of the Islands in Paroa Bay to breakfast, and put our persons a little to rights previous to returning home, as we were in our travelling garbs, which were rough enough. We all sailed on together with a sea breeze, and by noon were greeted by our families and friends, whom we found in health and peace after an absence of exactly six weeks.

Bless the Lord O my soul and all that is within me bless his holy name. Bless the Lord O my soul and forget not all his benefits.

Wednesday, 4. Felt exceedingly weary from the effects of our late voyage. Occupied in talking over the wonders of the South.

Thursday, 5. Much as yesterday.

Friday, 6. A special meeting here respecting the settlement in the Thames.

Saturday, 7. The children took leave with their parents for the vacation.

Sunday, 8. After service walked to Waitangi, but few persons there as a large party had left for the fishing spot.

Monday, 9. Left early for Waimate. Encountered Kamura and party at Kaipatiki, who had great objection to make to our passing as they were putting a new fishing net together.

This was a serious breach of tapu law.

Two little boys in the boat were stript in consequence. With some difficulty recovered the things taken. A very hot ride; found all well.

Tuesday, 10. Very hot. Rode to Taiamai. Poor Temoranga importunate to commence operations. Rec'd notice of the arrival of the Fortitude, which had been taken up for the purpose of taking goods and passengers for the Thames.

Wednesday, 11. Ret'd home. A weary ride; weather extremely hot.

Thursday, Friday & Saturday, 12, 13, 14. Every body occupied in shipping the frame of Mr. Fairburn's house, bricks, &c., &c. Went over to Kororarika; saw Titore.

Sunday, 15. Very hot. Went up the Kauakaua. A pleasant assembly. The schools were held in succession afterwards, Males and Females, and with as much order as at the settlement. Called at Otuihu on my way home, a large assembly of natives. Pomare and his party, old Hihi and many others. The old man endeavoured to enter into a disputation respecting the Nakahi,

Nakahi is a Maori transliteration of the Hebrew word for “serpent” in Genesis 3. See note on Papahurihia, page 378.

a new doctrine which has sprung recently amongst them in opposition to our instruction. The old man appears to be in the gaul of bitterness and in the bond of iniquity. Numbers of English Sailors landed and rolled into the grog shops here. Held service in the eveng. with the natives.

Monday, 16. Fine. Every one at work all day taking off boards &c., &c., to the Fortitude. Went up to Cap. Clendon's. Mr. Yate arrived in the eveng. from the Waimate. Mr. and Mrs. Preece from the Kerikeri.

Tuesday, 17. Hot weather. Karere not arr'd with Mr. Preece's baggage. Sent three boats to tow her down. Numbers of natives in the settlement. Hindered on every side.

Wednesday, 18. Hot weather. Karere made her appearance. Every symptom of a gale from N.N.E.

Thursday, 19. Wind from the sea. Our voyagers did not move before 1 p.m., when they took their departure. Messrs. Fairburn and Wilson left in the boat to coast it down to the Thames to meet the Fortitude there.

Friday, 20. Wind N.E. In the afternoon Mr. Fairburn and Mr. Wilson returned in consequence of his having been taken ill in the night; they did not proceed beyond Paroa.

Saturday, 21. Mr. Chapman returned from Te Puna after an absence of a few days, by way of recreation from his scholastic duties. My boys at fencing.

Sunday, 22. Hot weather. Several Europeans at service.

Monday, 23. Sent over five boys to Mr. Busby's new house to commence plastering.

Tuesday, 24. Mr. Fairburn took his departure for the Thames in better health, and finer weather. Mr. Polack, one of the Kororareka merchants, called to offer a situation on his ground for the erection of a Chapel there. This circumstance tho pleasing in itself, needs to be acted upon with caution.

Wednesday, 25. Christmas Day. Service in morng.; some few of the Europeans residing in the bay in attendance. Nothing indicative of the season. Weather extremely hot.

Saturday, 28. Fine. Emp'd in preparation for our voyage to Wangaroa. Several calls. Tupe from Wangaroa arr'd.

Sunday, 29. Cloudy. After service went to Kororareka. Saw Titore and had an agreeable conversation with him. He consented to go with us to Wangaroa in the morng.

Monday, 30. At 2 a.m. the boys up and we were soon on our way to Kororarika. Called for Titore, and proceeded on to Pt. Pocock. Landed at Waihihi and took breakfast. All sleepy, as but little rest. Found a boat here with four English men. Breeze sprung up against us, and the boys particularly lazy. Obliged to land till breeze should moderate. At sunset proceeded across the bay; landed in a small quiet bay at 11 o'clock; lay down on the beach intending to proceed at daybreak.

Tuesday, 31. Innumerable flees; literally devoured; not a sound spot from head to feet. Had these animals been somewhat larger how fearful might have been the consequences. Waited with patience for the morng. when we might remove from this place. At 9 entered the harbour of Wangaroa, landed to breakfast and refresh, which we stood much in need of. Towards noon pulled up to the Buffalo.

H.M.S. Buffalo. Some writers have confused this ship with two others of the same name. The vessel mentioned here was a teak-built ship of 589 tons launched at Calcutta in 1813 and named Hindustani. Purchased by the Navy in 1813 and renamed Buffalo, she was used as a naval storeship and was frequently in New Zealand waters. In 1840 she was wrecked in Mercury Bay on what is now known as Buffalo Beach.

Were received with great politeness. Mr. Baker had left two hours. Took up our quarters on board, as it was especially on account of this Ship we had undertaken the voyage.

VIII January to December 1834

Te Waharoa's patu delivered — Voyage to Kaitaia — Attack on Busby — Missionaries leave for Waikato — Trouble with Wesleyans — Fighting at Kororareka.

Wednesday, 1 January 1834. Through the gracious providence of our Heavenly Father, we are again brought to the commencement of a New Year. On looking on the past we may ask where is it and what has been done, surely we spend our years as a tale which is told, so soon does it pass away and it is gone. What distress what perplexity has visited the abode of man. Yet we have been spared. No one individual has been called away during the year and for the most part all have been preserved in health.

The Expedition to the Southd. respecting which we had so many fears and anxious moments has happily failed and the parties returned; for this we may bless the Lord. We have been enabled to extend our acquaintances to the Southd. amongst the different Tribes, and have commenced a Mission to the Northd. and one in the Thames.

A Gale with heavy rain, unable to move to the natives; cleared up in the eveng. Our boys in a sad plight, everything exceedingly wet.

Thursday, 2. Detained for a long time in consultation with the Captain and Titore as to the best steps to take. Concluded to remove the Ship to Mahurangi in the Thames, where Mr. G. D. Brown is. Pulled out at noon, wind a head. Light favourable wind at the Cavalles. In the eveng. rain; boys unusually lazy; but little wind and little progress. Passed the Sentinel at 9; very thick, foggy weather; could not see land and no compass in the boat. About midnight arrived at Kororareka; landed Titore who provided several baskets of potatoes for the boys.

Friday, 3. With difficulty we reached home by 2 o'clock, weary wet and hungry, not having taken anything since breakfast yesterday. News from England by the Columbine.

The Columbine schooner owned by Gilbert Mair and later bought from him by the Bay of Island missionaries on the authority of the local committee. The Corresponding Committee of the C.M.S. in Sydney refused at first to honour the bills of payment. The schooner was used efficiently in the work of the mission.

Eight Missionaries in the Colony for us. Two Wesleyan Missy. families in the Settlement on their way to Tonga. Natives in the course of the day to trade.

Saturday, 4. In considerable bustle all day, Natives trading.

Sunday, 5. Fine. Felt unwell. In the midst of service, an alarm of a mob of natives landing, commonly called “a fight”. The service disturbed; the party pass on up the river.

Monday, 6. At 6 on the way to the Kerikeri to attend Quarterly Meeting.

Tuesday, 7. At business all day. Closed the accounts by evening; unusually heavy.

Wednesday, 8. Business all day, much important business. Ret'd home by Eleven.

Thursday, 9. The Captain of the Buffalo landed at 6; his Ship in Paroa Bay; called to obtain information. Mr. Fairburn returned from the Thames in his boat this afternoon; letters from the Southd.; news good. Potatoes brought for sale.

Friday, 10. Fine; much time occupied with the natives buying a few potatoes; no one in the settlement to attend to public duties but myself.

Saturday, 11. Attending the boys at fencing. In the afternoon three of the Wesleyan Missionaries arrived from Hokianga. The baptised natives in the eveng. before prayer meeting.

Sunday, 12. After service went to Otuihu. Many natives there, but listless and inanimate; no one would move from his place. I went to Hihi who was full of the new doctrine, he was in a sad state. Spent the evening with the family.

Monday, 13. Recommenced school; boys well disposed. In the afternoon at the Girls' school; they behaved better than I had expected.

Tuesday, 14. Left early for Taiamai. Met Messrs. Clarke and Hamlin with the children for school. The weather very hot. Te Morenga and others came to Titirangi, spent a pleasant eveng. in close conversation till we could talk no longer. Badly provided with Camp furniture.

Wednesday, 15. Fine clear morning. A number of the natives came around us. About 10 Mr. Clarke arr'd; proceeded to examine the boundary of the land and wood. Afterwards rode to Waimate. All busy reaping, a pleasant sight. Weather extremely hot.

Thursday, 16. On my return home soon after daylight, a lovely morning. Detained two hours at Wauwauroa. In the afternoon attended the native girls' school; behaved well on the whole.

Friday, 17. Went to Wangai to attend the Hahunga, where the bones of our friend Tohitapu were laid in great state, besides 20 heads of his relatives. About 30 baskets of potatoes were turned over for us. Pumuka made an especial application for a stream of water on our land to be located to him; did not comply with his desires, as it was for the supply of the shipping, and would subject us to encroachments. Learnt that some natives from Waitangi had been in the settlement with bottles of rum to sell to our boys.

Saturday, 18. Extremely hot. Cap. Clendon occupied our attention in settling his account for the past three quarters. Four women in the Settlement with bottles of rum for sale. Sent out some special constables to apprehend them, but they were gone at the first whisper of what was about to take place. I trust this may be our last visit from these disturbers of the peace, for they know well that they may expect no quarter if they are found here. It is grievous to see their growing propensity for spirits, and the pains our countrymen take to shew them their delight in this intoxicating draught.

Sunday, 19. Chapel very full. In the afternoon went up the river to two new places at Waikino belonging to Pumaruku; found the natives in an orderly enquiring state; held service with them and returned by dusk.

Monday, 20. Extremely hot. Boys emp'd getting up their own potatoes.

Tuesday, 21. In the eveng. Cap. Deans arr'd from Tonga with Mr. Woon and family, having quitted the Mission.

Wednesday, 22. Fine. Mr. Woon,

William Moon, a printer from Cornwall, arrived at the Bay of Islands in January 1831, on his way to the Friendly Islands as a Wesleyan missionary, but in 1834 he returned to New Zealand and helped John Hobbs to establish the Wesleyan printing press at Mangungu. He served at Kawhia, Manukau and again at Mangungu before going in 1846 to Heretoa, South Taranaki, where he worked until 1853.

his wife and two children, came on shore, and took up their quarters at my house, making the fourth family beneath my roof. Temorenga and party came for the payment of the piece of land at Titirangi. At noon the Fortitude hove in sight from the Southd. At 2 my brother and Mr. Yate landed in good health. Went up to Cap. Clendon's to engage lodging for Mr. Woon as we were over run. Could not obtain any relief.

Thursday, 23. Sent a messenger to Mr. White to request that he would endeavour to do something for Mr. Woon and family. The boys engaged in getting up their own potatoes.

Friday, 24. Hot in extreme. Boys digging sawpit, and getting up potatoes in the garden. The Christian natives came to me in the eveng., spent nearly two hours with them.

Saturday, 25. Boys engaged as yesterday.

Sunday, 26. Administered the sacrament to 6 natives. In the afternoon went to Otuihu. A small party. Two young men were present who were in possession of much knowledge, but their hearts were in no wise engaged in the things of which they spake; however they gave their assent to all I said.

Monday, 27. Mr. and Mrs. Busby removed to their residence at Waitangi, and I had the pleasure of again possessing my Study, which had been occupied by them for these many months past.

Tuesday, 28. Mr. Whitely arr'd from Hokianga to see Mr. Woon. Went with the Sawyers up to Waikino; felled one Kauri and one Tanakaha; returned home in the eveng., the Sawyers remaining. The country for many miles on fire, the mischief of our boys. Nothing determined respecting Mr. Woon.

Wednesday, 29. Mr. Woon undetermined whether to remain in my house or to go to lodgings at Cap. Wright; felt particularly displeased at such perfect indifference except to his own accommodation. Tareha came to call, presented him with the hatchet of Waharoa

When Henry Williams was at Matamata in 1833, Te Waharoa gave him his patu to take to the Ngapuhi chiefs as a token of peace. This was the common practice of a chief wishing to make peace with his enemies. The patu was always entrusted to an important messenger, and its acceptance meant the acceptance of the peace offer. Te Waharoa's patu was presented to Tareha because he had been the leader of the last Ngapuhi taua to attack Matamata.

the chief of Matamata. He received it with much ceremony. Before however he would touch it, it was karakiatied as it was a very sacred thing amongst the Ngapuhi, as having come from an enemy of considerable rank, and one with whom they had been recently engaged. Capn. Clendon called at a very late hour to settle accounts.

Friday, 31. Went up to Waikino to see the sawyers. Mr. Woon and family departed to Capt. Wrights.

Saturday, 1 February. Exceedingly hot. Went over to Cap. Deans with the Letters, &c. His men would not get his ship under weigh.

Sunday, 2. Went up the Kawakawa; the service concluded, passed on to Pukututu,

Tamati Pukututu, a chief whose pa was on the Kawakawa River. He became well-known as a supporter of the British at the rebellion of Heke and Kawiti in 1846.

not disposed to much attention. The few who are desirous of receiving instruction meet with a good deal of opposition from many of the old people, yet they continue their daily service and school and frequently assemble seventy, with the widow of Tekoke at their head. I am in great hope that something good is going on here.

Monday, 3. Hot weather. Mr. White arrived in the eveng. to fetch Mr. Woon; he passed over to Cap. Wright's.

Tuesday, 4. Cap. Deans sailed for England. Mr. White and party passed on their way to Hokianga.

Wednesday, 5. Rode to Taiamai; saw More and several others.

Thursday, 6. Ret'd home, much refreshed by the run inland.

Friday, 7. Hera the wife of Hemi died; her sufferings have been considerable, but I trust she has gone to her Redeemer. Her life for a long time has been very consistent. She has left two children behind.—Heavy rain most of the former part of the day. In the afternoon took Mrs. Williams to see Mrs. Busby. The Harlequin Schooner arr'd from Sydney. Messrs. Edmonds

Edmonds and his family arrived with W. Pilley and Philip King on the Harlequin. A mason and a bricklayer, he was sent without consultation with the missionaries, who did not know what to do with him, since there was no lime available for bricklaying. As he had not the ability to be used as a catechist, requests were made from time to time that he should be recalled, but without avail. He was employed in building the stone house which still stands at Kerikeri.

and Pilley

W. Pilley was regarded by the missionaries as a very useful man, and was employed as a carpenter and a catechist. He and Knight were sent to Rotorua in 1836 to erect the buildings for Chapman's mission station.

on board. Mr. Mair's boat seized alongside by the natives of Kororarika owing to some disagreement. Our newcomers appeared quite frightened at such rough conduct. They all came on shore late, glad to escape the noise and confinement of the vessel. Very few letters!!

Saturday, 8. Fine. Interrupted all the morng. in attending to our new arrivals; they left at noon for Te Puna. In the eveng. buried Hera. Her sorrowful husband had prepared the grave and again filled it up. This work to us would have been a difficult task, but there is nothing english in native tenderness