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Journal of John Gare Butler, 1820

Extract from John Butler's Journal, contained in a letter to Rev. Josiah Pratt.
GLOUCESTER TOWN,
New Zealand,
Now Dec. 1st, 1820.

Rev. and Dear Sir,

The following are a few remarks which I have made since my last:

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th.—Set off with Mr. Marsden for Wangaroa, in order to see him embark on H.M.S. “The Regent,” schooner, for Port Jackson. We arrived at the “Dromedary” at eleven at night. In the morning, the wind blew directly into the harbour, and continued to do so for several days, so that the schooner could not get out. This gave us an opportunity of examining the woods, and seeing the spars which were cut down for the “Dromedary.” Here, I beheld the wreck of the “Boyd,” the sight of which caused me to heave a sigh.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17th.—The morning was fine, but no wind, but Capt. Skinner determined to send away the page 93 schooner, by towing her out of the harbour with boats. Mr. Wm. Hall and myself accompanied Mr. Marsden, until the vessel was a mile without the Heads. We then took our leave of him, and returned unto the “Dromedary,” where we remained until Monday noon, and then returned to Kedee Kedee. The remaining part of the week I have been farming and gardening.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23rd.—Received a note from Mr. Marsden, saying the “Prince Regent,” schooner, had encountered a heavy gale off the Three Kings, at the north point of New Zealand, and returned to the Bay of Islands yesterday. Mr. Marsden was very ill during the storm, and is obliged to remain in New Zealand until the “Dromedary” goes to Port Jackson.

SUNDAY.—Divine Service in Mr. Hall's house, M. & E.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 30th.—The first three days of this week, gardening and fencing, the latter three in enlarging the front yard belonging to Mr. Hall and the store. The natives employed in husbandry go on well, and improve very fast. They are very anxious for European garments, and I mean to give them a suit from the slops which I bought, as an encouragement to go on and be diligent.

OCTOBER 1st.—Divine Service, M. & E. Administered the Holy Sacrament in the morning.

OCTOBER 2nd.—Held a committee. In the afternoon, received by Mr. King a letter from the H.C.M.S., bearing date April 5th, 1820. Also an account of the loss of the “Echo,” whaler, Capt. Spence, off the coast of New Zealand; crew saved. Also an account of the death of Mr. Hassell.

TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY.—After timber for the Society's work, with one European and two natives; obtained two fine logs.

THURSDAY.—Gardening.

FRIDAY.—Went into the bush in search of our herd of cattle; took a native with me to assist in this business. We had the good fortune to find them all, though in several divisions. We collected them into one herd again, and were glad to find them looking remarkably well.

OCTOBER 8th.—Divine Service in Mr. Hall's house, M. & E.

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OCTOBER 9th.—Captain Ker, of the ship “Saracen,” visited our settlement, accompanied by Mr. Marsden, and dined with me. Captain Ker expressed great satisfaction on seeing the improvements made in so short a time.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 10th.—Having understood from Captain Ker, on the preceding day, that he could spare a whale-boat, Mr. F. Hall and myself set off in a canoe to Parroa to purchase it. When we arrived, we found that Mr. Marsden and Capt. Ker were gone to Tippoonah (Te Puna), and as the Captain did not return till evening, we were obliged to remain on board all night.

In the morning, we agreed for a new boat, oars, and sail, for £30, which we paid at the same time; the price we considered very high, but Capt. Ker said he paid £35 for a new whaleboat in Sydney, and therefore could not let us have one for less than £30. Our settlement was in the greatest distress for a boat. We are twelve miles from Tippoonah, and sixteen from Parroa, and no way of getting to either place but by water; so that, whatever occasion might occur, or whatever accident might happen, or whatever might be wanted, we had no conveyance but a canoe, which is exceedingly dangerous for Europeans. I have had several narrow escapes in crossing these large bays in canoes. If we had another boat at Kidee Kidee, it would be very serviceable.

Having finished our business, we returned, and arrived at Gloucester Town at eight o'clock on Wednesday evening.

THURSDAY AND FRIDAY.—Employed in general business.

SATURDAY.—I employed in reading. In the evening, I gave nine natives a suit of clothes each for their good behaviour, and as a stimulus to further exertion. These garments consisted of a striped cotton shirt, blue jacket, and trousers, duck frock, and handkerchief. As soon as I informed them what I was about to do for them, they leaped for joy. I told them that these clothes were to be worn only on Sundays, and that I hoped they would attend church very regularly, and behave well. This they promised to do. Having furnished them with soap, I ordered them to go to the river and wash themselves clean, which was done in a few minutes. As soon as they were dressed, I caused them to stand in a row, and, after a short exhortation, they were permitted to walk in them, as the evening was very fine. They viewed each other with admiration, and it was no less gratifying to us. When shall page 95 their souls be clothed with Christ's righteousness, as well as their bodies with European garments? He that loveth the cause of Christ, let him pray for this wished-for period.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 15th.—Divine Service in Mr. Hall's house, M. & E. About fourteen natives attended, and behaved exceeding well.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21st.—The principal part of this week I have employed in writing, and the natives in falling timber, and fencing, etc. In the evening, we were visited by Mr. Marsden, and Mr. Fairfoul, surgeon of the “Dromedary.” Mr. F. remained with us two days, and was much pleased with the prospect we have of usefulness at Gloucester Town.

OCTOBER 22nd.—Divine Service, M. & E.

OCTOBER 28th.—This week my natives have been employed in fencing, and myself in the general business of the Mission.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29th, 1820.—Preached at Ranghee Hoo, and administered the Holy Sacrament. I beg leave to observe that the reason why I have not preached at Ranghee Hoo for some time past, is owing to my not having a conveyance.

OCTOBER 30th.—This morning I set off with Mr. Marsden, Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Puckey, on a journey to the river Kiperro. We left Ranghee Hoo in my whaleboat, and passed Cape Brett at seven. The first place we touched at was Wangahmoomoo, about twenty miles distant from Ranghee Hoo. Here we bought some fish off the natives, who were very desirous for us to go on shore, and spend a little time with them; but this request we could not consent to, as we were very anxious to proceed. The next place was Wangahdoodoo. The next, Shanah. The next, Mee Mee Wangahootoo, and the next, Wanahnackee, where we slept for the night. All the natives as we passed were equally solicitous for our company.

The shore was very bold, and the hills were covered with lofty timber. After landing, we prepared food for supper, hung our hammocks in a tree, and, after refreshment and prayer, laid ourselves down to rest, having journeyed forty miles. We rose in the morning before daylight, and set out while it was yet dark, and proceeded to Matta Podee to breakfast. This place belongs to Te Morengah, and is well adapted for a missionary settlement. After breakfast, we had some conversation with Te Morengah and his people, and departed.

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The next place we arrived at was Too Too Ka Kah. Here is a small harbour sheltered by rock standing in the mouth of it. There is plenty of fine kowrie timber at this place, fit for masts or any other purpose.

The next place was Wangaree. Here we arrived at eight at night. The principal chief, Wyhee Wyhee (Waewae), and his people received us with great joy, and shewed us every mark of attention. After some refreshments and prayer, we enjoyed a friendly conversation with them until a late hour, when we retired to rest, our hammocks being hung in a tree as before. In the morning, we stopped for breakfast, after which we were presented with a large hog for our party. We had intended to leave our boat at this place, and proceed by land to Kiperro, but were informed that the natives of Wyeroa (a river we had to go down), were all fled, on account of Coohee Coohee, a great chief, who was invading their border with a great force. After such information, we found it necessary to go on for the River Thames. We passed Bream Head at three p.m. The wind was blowing strong, and we stood in for the Harbour of Mangheewye, and entered the same between four and five o'clock. It is a bar harbour, and a very dangerous entrance, but there appears to be plenty of water inside. Here we took up our lodging in similar manner to the preceding night. We started in the morning at six o'clock, and passed Point Rodney into the Thames at noon. There was a very strong breeze, and we sailed fifty miles before dinner. Hunger turned us into a small harbour for refreshment; after which we crossed part of the river to an uninhabited island—about twelve miles distant. At this time, the sea was very rough, and we thought it prudent to run into shelter, and remain for the night. Having taken our things out of the boat, we hauled her up above high water mark, then took a walk on the island, and returned to the beach, offered up our evening sacrifice and thanksgiving, and then laid down to rest.

The wind being fair in the morning, we set off for Mogoeah (Mokoia) at daybreak, but there was an amazing heavy sea going, and Mr. Marsden mistook the entrance into Mogoeah Harbour, which nearly proved the most serious consequences. We went to the upper, instead of the lower, side of an island. As we drew near, I went forward to look out, and I observed the land on one side very low, the entrance narrow, and the water discoloured. I said to Mr. Marsden, “Sir, you have mistaken the passage; there appears to be no water.” page 97 He replied, “There is water for the ‘Coromandel.’” At this time, we were going before the wind at the rate of nine knots. As we drew very near, the mistake was clearly seen, but it was too late to go about; we rushed through a tremendous surf, and, through mercy, we had just water enough to carry us into shelter. You may easily imagine our feelings at this moment.

We then went on shore, and the natives of the place hauled our boat over the sandbank into the deep water. On finding ourselves sheltered and secure, we felt exceeding thankful.

We next proceeded on for Mogoeah, and arrived about four in the afternoon. The natives came running to the beach in great numbers. We were saluted by the firing of a musket, and were received with every mark of respect and gratitude. They even ran into the water with eagerness to shake hands with us, so that, for a few minutes, it was impossible to land, for the press.

After every expression of joy on the part of the natives, we landed, and ascended an eminence to the residence of Enackee (Hinaki), one of the chiefs of this large district. As we approached we found him sitting on the ground with his friends, ready to receive us. I would remark that sitting is the usual way of receiving friends in N.Zd. Enackee is a man of mild countenance, and gentlemanly in his manners. After receiving us with every mark of friendship, he shewed us every favour in his power, offering us hogs, potatoes, and a house to sleep in, etc., etc.

We then entered into conversation, and I expressed a desire to go on the top of an adjacent mountain. Enackee accompanied me with all readiness, leaving Mr. Marsden and Puckey with his friends. We passed through a fine tract of land, principally cultivated, and set with potatoes.

When we arrived at the foot of the mountain, and began to ascend the side, I found, on examination, the grass and fern growing upon burnt earth and calcined cinders, which led me to conclude that it had been a volcano.

Reaching the summit, I found a large crater, and proportionately deep, but the eruption must have ceased long since, as the grass grows spontaneously at the bottom of it. The prospect from the summit is grand and nobly pleasing. I observed twenty villages in the valley below, and, with a single glance, beheld the largest portion of cultivated land I had ever page 98 met with in one place in New Zealand. Having taken a general survey, we returned by another path to the Eppah (pah), where we found Mr. Marsden enjoying a friendly chat with the people.

The next thing to be done was to cook for supper, and the natives were very anxious to see this performed. Our utensils consisted of a frying-pan, an iron pot, and tea kettle. On seeing the flour, they were at a loss to know its utility; we fried pancakes, boiled pork, and made tea; and, after supper, we handed the chiefs and their children some pancakes, who appeared very fond of it.

The evening being fine, Mr. Puckey and myself visited several villages, and the natives seemed quite at a loss to know how to express their gratitude in a proper way and manner.

(The Journal of Mr. Butler to the Society is not exactly word for word with that retained by himself; the period from May to November 4th has been lost, but, owing to the foresight of Dr. Hocken, the Journals to the Society were obtained by him, placed in his library in Dunedin, and have been kindly made available in order to complete the narrative. Butler's own original Journal again continues.)

On our return to the Eppah (the pah), we had Divine Service; the natives were very quiet.

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 4th, 1820.—We rose early and prepared for our journey. This morning, Totohee, a chief, and relation of Enackee, came to me, desiring me to go with him to his paa, about half a mile off. When I arrived, I found his object was to present me with a good mat, for calling one of his children after my name, a fine boy about four years of age. He considered this a great favour, and pressed me to take the mat as a recompense. I took the mat, and in return made him and his family a present of some fish-hooks, after which I took my leave of them, and went down to the boat.

These people are most anxious to have Europeans to live among them. They appear to be kind and affectionate toward each other, and exceedingly well disposed toward the white people, and, so far as my judgment goes, it is by far the best place for a missionary settlement that I have ever seen in New Zealand. The natives are very numerous. Enackee informed me that there were as many as seven thousand men, women and children, but, judging it impossible for him to tell accurately, I put down four thousand, which I think, from observation, is near the mark. We informed them that, by and by, page 99 the missionaries would be sent to them; they seemed impatient to know when, and expressed their doubts in the most feeling manner, saying, “Our eyes, we are afraid, will be all dark before that period arrives, and we shall never see them.” I answered, “You must have patience; England is a long way off.” Great crowds accompanied us to the water side, and gave us a hearty good-bye.

Mogoea is about two hundred miles from Kiddikiddi. The “Coromandel” was lying about forty-five miles off, and, as Mr. Marsden wished to visit her, we bore away with all speed, having Enockea and his son Rupee in the boat.

After we had got without the heads, a very heavy squall came suddenly on, and the wind directly foul, we were obliged to bear away for an island about four miles to leeward. In a few moments there was a great sea up, but thro' mercy we reached the island in safety. Here we remained all day and night, and were glad to embrace the rock for shelter. Here, prayer and praise for the first time were offered to the God of Heaven Whose mercies are everlasting, and Whose truth endureth from generation to generation. The storm abated in the evening, and on Sunday morning, November 5th, at six o'clock, we bore away for the “Coromandel.” We had a fine breeze, and arrived about eight in the evening. We remained on board till Tuesday, November 7th, when we again made sail for Mogoia.

During our short stay, I went on shore among the natives, with Rupee, Enockea's son, who found some of his relations living there. After embracing him in the most affectionate manner, two women sat down opposite each other and cried, or rather howled, for an hour or more, and cut themselves from the wrists upwards to the shoulders, as regular as you would cut the rind off port to roast it. The blood ran off their finger ends profusely, and their faces and breasts were covered with it. I was glad when the ceremony was over, as I did not like to see it. I afterwards asked them why they did thus; they replied, on account of the love they had for the lad. I answered, “We express our sorrow by inward affection, and by weeping.” They replied, “Your love is not so strong as ours; we think little enough to shed our blood to testify the same.”

After we had passed the River Thames and entered the Wye te Matta, a stiff breeze set in against us, and we were obliged to put into a well-sheltered creek and wait for a fair page 100 wind. Here we continued two nights and one day. We hung our hammocks on the branch of a tree, and covered them with the boat's sail; but, as there was much rain falling, and our house not being weather-proof, our lodging became very uncomfortable. During our stay, I went into the woods and shot pigeons for our food—on Butler's Island.

Thursday morning, we made sail for Mogoia, and arrived about noon. Here we had to leave the boat, and, as soon as matters could be arranged and natives procured to carry our necessaries, we departed by land for Manukau, a settlement about nine miles from Mogoia. We arrived about five o'clock p.m., and were, as usual, received with every mark of gratitude and respect. No Europeans had ever been here before, and everyone, young and old, was eager, if possible, to touch the hem of our garments. The natives are numerous, the land good, the timber fine, and the little naked children ran about like rabbits in a warren. This would be a good place for a missionary settlement, but not equal to Mogoia.

We remained in this place one day and two nights, during which time we engaged in a great deal of interesting conversation with the natives.

The River of Manukau runs into the ocean on the west side of New Zealand, and is separated only by a narrow neck of land about half a mile wide, from Mogoia River on the east side, and also from the Wye te Matta on the north-east side, by the same extent of land.

During our stay, we went down to the heads of the harbour of Manukau, but, as the distance is about twenty miles from the town, we had not sufficient time to say much about the entrance. It appears to be a bar harbour; we sounded inside, and found from four to ten fathoms.

The name of the head chief of this place is Kowow. He appears to be a man of a bold disposition, and a good countenance. He furnished us with pork and potatoes, and did everything he could to serve us during our short visit; and offered his services, and as many of his people as we needed to conduct us to the Kipero; this offer we gladly accepted.

We left Manukow on Saturday for Kepero; our party consisted of about twenty persons. As we passed along, we came to a large volcano mountain down which the path led. When we had ascended the summit, we sat down a little while both to rest and take a survey of the country.

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On this elevated spot we had the opportunity of observing the entrance of Manukow Harbour to the western, and the River Thames on the eastern side of New Zealand.

In the course of three hours, we arrived at the Wyetematta, where we sat down and breakfasted, up which we had to go twenty miles, and Kowow furnished us with a canoe for this purpose. But, as we met with some little impediment on account of the tide, etc., we only reached half way up the river; we were obliged to go on shore, and remain until morning; however, this gave us an opportunity of killing a pig we had with us, and of washing and cleaning ourselves a little for the Sabbath. On this beach, in the open air, I enjoyed as good a night's rest as ever I had in my life.

SUNDAY, Noon, 12th.—We rose very early, performed Divine Service, and proceeded; we arrived at the head of the river about ten a.m., and after that, walked twenty miles in the course of the day. The land we passed over this day is not very good. A little before the going down of the sun, we reached a small village on the west side, near the sea.

These people had never seen a European, and the younger of both sexes were filled with wonder and astonishment. When I pulled off my hairy cap I travelled in, they shouted aloud; I apprehended they conceived my hat formed part of my head. The old chief made a long speech, and said he dreamed white men were coming to see him, the night before. We spent the evening among them in the usual way, in prayer and praise, and conversation, and were treated in the kindest manner possible. We slept among the trees, and in the morning, after many a hearty good wish for our welfare, we departed. This place is called Moodewye. There is also a fine waterfall, fifty to sixty feet deep. The chief's name is Homihamoo.

The natives accompanied us over the sandhills to the seashore, and then bid us good-bye, and returned. We walked on the sea beach upwards of twenty miles. This was a very fatiguing march on the sands; and also, we suffered a good deal from thirst, as the day was hot and windy, and no water to be had for sixteen miles. The sandhills reach for sixteen miles to this coast, and very much resembles a deep snow in winter. You behold an immense tract of sand, with a stunted shrub here and there growing through it. The wind whirls about the sand like a cloud; and it is almost impossible to stand or face it in a windy day. In passing along, I sat down on a small, sandy eminence to rest a while, being hungry and page 102 thirsty, and no water to be obtained among these barren sands. All our people, except Mr. Shepherd, lagging a long way behind, I was led to contemplate a little while on the 42nd Psalm, and I can truly affirm I never felt the force and excellence of those pious words of the psalmist in such a manner before, “As the heart panteth for the water brooks, so longeth my soul after Thee, O God. My soul is athirst for God, for the living God; when shall I come and appear,” etc., etc. 1 v. and 2 v. I thought our situation was very peculiarly interesting: on the very verge of the world, or at least on the farthest shore that is known, and nearly the Antipodes of England; the tremendous roaring surf, which is seen and heard on this sandy coast many miles; the barren sand hills; the dreary wilderness of New Zealand; surrounded by cannibals; exposed to the heat by day, and the cold dews by night. On reflecting on the dangers we had already passed, and the goodness of the Lord in preserving us amidst innumerable perils, my mind was filled with an awful sense of the majesty of God Who is everywhere present, and fills the universe with His presence. But how comforting to think that he is everywhere present for the comfort and support of His people!

We arrived at the place where we had to turn off inland about four o'clock, and, walking a little way, we halted in a valley between the sand hills, where we found water, and a few heath shrubs with which we made a little shelter for the night. Here we offered up praise and thanksgiving to our adorable Redeemer for all His tender mercies. I rested during the night but very little; I believe through weariness. Mr. Puckey was attacked with rheumatic pains, insomuch that in the morning he was obliged to be carried by natives; however, we had but a short distance to go, say about eight miles, which we accomplished before breakfast.

When we reached Kapooah, a settlement on the banks of the Kepero River, and the residence of the great chief, Teenana, we were received, as at every other place, with every mark of kindness and attention. Here we halted for the day to refresh ourselves, etc. Teenana is an aged man, but of an amazing size, and full of flesh; his head is extraordinarily large, and his beard very thick and long, which gives him a lion-like appearance. Mr. Marsden said he would give twenty guineas for his likeness, if it was possible to obtain it. One would suppose he had sprung from a race of giants. His sons, Paheehorah, Arora, Aronah, Derahranga, and Tyeheest, are all of them very fine large men. We spent the day very com- page 103 fortably, and the old gentleman wished us to sit up all night, that he might have the pleasure of seeing us; of course, this we could not consent to.

On Thursday, November 16th, in the morning, at daylight, they manned a canoe, and proceeded down the river for the heads, but the wind blew strong out, and we were afraid to venture lest we should be blown out to sea; we therefore went on shore at a small village, six miles within the heads. Next morning we started at daylight and sounded the water as we went along, and found from six to fifteen fathoms, but there are three sand shoals lying near the harbour. Our survey, of course, was very superficial; however, from our observations, we were led to believe that there are two, if not three, passages for ships of any burthen. The width between the heads is about five miles, or perhaps a little more.

As the day advanced, the wind began to blow strong out to sea, and we were glad to run into a small bay within the heads, leave our canoe, and return back to the village by land. We remained in this place until Saturday, on account of the weather.

Having now accomplished the objects of our journey, we began to think of home. Mr. Marsden and Mr. Shepherd proposed to return by land to Kidee Kidee, and Mr. Puckey and myself to Mogoia for the boat, and go by sea.

This distance by way of Mogoia, from the village to Kidee Kidee, is three hundred miles, while the way by which Mr. Marsden returned is only one hundred and eighty; this happens on account of the circuitous route of journey.

SATURDAY, noon, 18th.—This morning we rose early, committed each other to the care and protection of our Heavenly Father, and departed; Mr. Puckey and self for Mogoia, Mr. Marsden and Mr. Shepherd for Shukianga, taking with them one of Tenana's sons, and two cookeys to carry their necessaries; and we, on the other hand, had a strong party with us in the canoe.

We arrived at Topooah (Kapua), about noon, and stopped to refresh ourselves, while the tide turned in our favour. Having several hours to spare, we endeavoured to turn them to some account, by conversing with the natives. They were very desirous to know if there was water enough for shipping, and being answered in the affirmative, they were much pleased.

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There is plenty of fine timber at Kipperoo, and near the water side. After talking a while about their farms, etc., etc., our conversation turned upon the works of creation; the earth with her productions, the heavens and all the starry host, and and that our God was the Maker of them all. They wished to know if our God was good and kind to us, and sent us plenty of good things. I replied, “He does, and He is a very great God—a very good God, and very kind to all people.” They said, “Perhaps he will not be good to New Zealand men!” I answered, “He is, and always will be very good to you, and hath sent us to tell you how much He loves you.”

Native: “Your God is a long way off in Europe.”

Reply: “Yes, and He is in New Zealand also, and every other place. He made New Zealand men, as well as Europeans; He is the God of black men, as well as of white men.”

Native: “Can we see Him?”

Answer: “No, He is a Spirit, and, altho' we cannot see Him, yet He sees everyone, and knows the thoughts and sees the actions of all men, and is good to all; but He loves good men very much, and when they die, their spirits go to live with Him.”

Native: “Where is His house for spirits?”

Answer: “Above the sun in Heaven; a beautiful and happy place.”

Native: “Shall you live there after you are dead?”

Answer: “Yes; and if you love one another, and leave off fighting and killing each other, God will send good men to you to learn you the way to that happy place.”

They answered: “Your conversation is very good, but you only joke with us; we shall all be dead before any white men come to Kiperoo. Kai ore ka ki tea, we shall never see them.”

This was such an appeal to our feelings, that we scarcely knew how or what to answer. “The harvest truly is plenteous, but the labourers are few; pray ye, therefore, the Lord of the harvest that He would send forth labourers into His harvest.”

It being now six o'clock in the evening, and the tide flowing, and very fine, I expressed my desire to proceed; they prayed us to stop till morning, but, seeing my determination, page 105 they came forward in a very noble manner, manned a canoe, gave us a large hog and three baskets of potatoes, and we took our leave and departed.

We proceeded up the river as fast as possible, and pursued our course until one o'clock in the morning, when we arrived at the path that leadeth to the Wye te Matta. The night being very fine, we made tea to refresh us, and then lay down on the bank of the river to rest. We arose at six, and the natives of Kopooah returned to their place, and we proceeded on our journey. We had now twenty miles to walk before we reached the village on the banks of the Wye te Matta, and, though we were much exhausted, yet we performed the whole distance with no other refreshment than a little water from the creeks as we passed.

In the course of this march we had some very heavy showers, and a deal of water to wade through, so that when we reached the Wye te Matta we were much fatigued and worn down. But, after a good meal and a little rest, we felt comforted and encouraged to proceed. Having procured a canoe, we again embarked, and were on the water until one in the morning, when the natives became tired and sleepy; we therefore drew to shore for refreshment and rest.

In the morning, after breakfast and prayer, we made sail for Mogoia, and arrived about two p.m.

Enackee and his people received us with the accustomed kindness; we found the boat and other things that had been left in their charge, perfectly safe. We tarried with them till ten o'clock the next day, and, if I may be allowed the expression, we were loaded with kindness. We bade them adieu on Tuesday, November 20th, about ten o'clock, with a promise to visit them again at the earliest opportunity; and, by the blessing of God, we reached Kiddee Kiddee on Thursday about noon, very much fatigued, having had to row all Wednesday night.

This is an abstract of our journey of between seven and eight hundred miles, and if you find the narrative worth reading. I shall be amply paid for writing it down.

I would observe, by way of conclusion, that, so far as I am able to judge, the principal sins to which these heathens are addicted, are: pride, lust, and cruelty. They give unbounded limits to their lusts, and the first thing a chief will offer you as a compliment, is a fine woman.

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When we arrived at Enackee's, he wished to furnish me with a wife during my stay. I told him I was tabbood, and also a priest, and if I committed such wickedness my God would destroy me. I further explained to him, in the best manner I was able, the wickedness of having more than one wife, and that the great God was angry with all men that had many wives. I asked him if he was not afraid of God's anger. He replied, “No; our God is not angry with us, and your God does not live in New Zealand.”

I answered: “Our God is a Spirit, and lives in New Zealand as well as Europe, and that He understands all that we are saying, and I was very much afraid that He would be angry at such bad discourse.”

He said: “If you are afraid of His anger, I will say no more.”

They are cruel and insatiable in their revenge, and war is their delight. This may account, in some measure, for their cannibalism. Although covered with lice and filth, they are as proud as Lucifer, and they look upon their cookies as mere dogs, and not of half so much value. Oh! the dreadful chains of darkness with which Satan has bound these unhappy people, “Lo, these many years!” Who has any bowels of compassion —who? In God's name, and for Christ's sake, let us shew it by endeavouring to send the glorious Gospel unto them, and earnestly praying that it may dispel the darkness from their minds, as the material sun chaseth away the shades of night.

Copied and sent by Mr. Marsden,
December 4th, 1820.