XI.—Leith Valley and Waterfalls.

By most people, a journey up and down this sequestered dell is considered one of the most enjoyable around the city. It is not now so lovely a grove as it was in days of yore, when the dense bush was penetrable only to the more intrepid of the citizens, and even to them, for a good portion of the way, the margin or bed of the creek was the only traversable spot, shut in as it were on to the sides of wood-clad precipices and steeps, along which progress could, with the utmost difficulty, be made even with the aid of the branches of the overhanging trees. To walk, drive, or ride, is now at the option of the visitant. In many respects the natural beauties have been considerably marred by the encroachments of the settlers, who are studded thickly along almost the entire route; in other respects, the prospect has been opened up by removal of the timber, so that a much more extensive range is exposed to the vision, still a sufficient number of the romantic attractions remain, and will continue to the end to exist, fully entitling this valley to a place in the front rank among our picturesque delights.

The traveller may leave Dunedin by the coach, which for a modest fare takes him close up to the Waterfall, which forms an interesting feature in the scenery of the valley. Before reaching this spot, however, he will pass through the Town Belt, on which will be presented to view the first saw and flour mill, erected in the Province in 1850; not exactly the identical building, for it has undergone many enlargements as well as mutations, but the present building occupies the same site, and the same motive-power is page 284used. The portion of the borough of Maori Hill, which we enter after crossing the Belt, where we escape from the jurisdiction of the city magnates, was called by its first purchaser Woodhaugh, and in the course of years a very extensive trade was done at the saw mills, which, as the remains will show, dotted the valley along the river course, but their occupation, if not in every case like Othello's—gone, is very nearly so. The Woodhaugh Paper Mills, the first which were established in the Colony, are situated at the bend of the river crossing, where the road leads off from the main road by the side of the creek to the Dunedin original "Waterworks.

From this point the road follows the centre of the valley, and here will be seen the effect produced by disturbance of the ground in removing the timber. A few years ago, during a continuance of wet weather, the Leith stream became so great in its volume and impetuous in force as to tear down its shingly banks, spread over the narrow valley, and form for itself new channels where it had never flowed before. So great was the havoc committed to both the county and borough works, as well as to those of private individuals, as to cause the better filled purse of the Colonial Treasurer to be invoked to have the damages to bridges and roads repaired.

We soon pass an old totara tree, which has for centuries occupied its position, a grand specimen of the kind in its day, and now, even with its broken limbs and noble trunk, a picturesque object, though degraded to the condition of being the bearer of a municipal notice board, instead of being carefully and zealously protected. If the visitor is an artist, it will be hard to drag him beyond this hallowed spot, and when the eye has taken in and recorded all the special points of beauty and interest here to be observed, it will not be long before the pencil of the admirer will be busy in recording his impressions in a more enduring form. But without such artificial aids to memory when our journey has been completed, contemplation and reflection will enable us to realise the truth of the words of the ploughman bard:—

"Still o'er these scenes, my memory wakes
And fondly broods with miser care;
Time, hut the impression deeper makes,
As streams their channels deeper wear."

page break page 285

If, however, we are to loiter, no not loiter, but dwell on points of marvellous beauty which, ravish us at every turn of the road? it will be quite twelve months before we get back to our starting point. Just cast the eye downward for a moment to the gurgling brook, its crystal waters now dashing into foam over some rocky impediment, or with calm and sullen face o'er-covering some old obstruction, which at a long antecedent date made a powerful but futile effort to stop its current. A little bend may show some laughing children disporting themselves in the shallow stream, and not far from them a waiting, watchful angler plying his art over some pool, where he knows the speckled trout love to congregate, while, as a mantle of green overhanging them, the native bush spreads its curious limbs and varied foliage to shelter from the too piercing rays of the mid-day sun. The picture is completed by those almost sheer cliffs, wherein, not whereon, trees of mighty stature have obtained a holding by simply penetrating and wedging their at first tiny rootlets into any rent or crack which unseen to mortal eye existed, and from whence these trees have for ages drawn sustenance, from which the eye rises to the clear blue vault above.

Onwards and upwards we pass, through glades or along embankments, and the vista becomes more fascinating at every turn, until at length, after a four-mile drive, "too pleasant to have expired so soon," the confluence of Nicol's Creek is gained. It is so called because a gardener of that name had bought a. section, on which to graze his stock, on the hillside above, through which the creek ran. Perhaps as on his ground the burn had its source, he claimed the parentage.

Be that as it may, the visitor alighting from the vehicle may, if in season, regale himself with strawberries and cream before essaying the climb which lies before him. Now refreshed with the momentary gratifications, up the creek is the word. Devastations, irreparable and uncalled for are noticed on every side.

Let it be borne in mind that thirty years ago human foot had scarcely trod this sacred spot, where, in its deep solitudes, those gems of beauty, ferns—the exquisite Hymenophillums, Adiantums, Lomarias, Cyatheas, Dicksonias, Alsophillas, and others—were scattered in great profusion. Time would fail to page 286recount their graces, and to express the regrets that the habitats, of which they were the fit adornment, now bear but faint and few traces of their existence. Still the eye and hand of the diligent can discover and secure mementoes of the former glories.

The distance up to the first Waterfall is about half a mile and on the road up, by way of the creek bed, a passage is made between precipitous rocks, rising on each side, leaving only a narrow way between, the sides of the cleft being decorated by the hand of nature with a covering of ferns and mosses. At length the fall is reached, and as the quantity of water in the summer after dry weather is comparatively small, it may, at first sight be to many disappointing, but as it drops over a face about 30 feet in height, which is covered with mosses of the finest green, it possesses beauties of its own, and on a hot summer's day it conveys a suggestion of coolness, not afforded by a more turbulent stream. After a fresh, however, the volume of the stream is of considerable magnitude, rising, as it does, from a rift in the side of old Flagstaff itself, and gathering its waters from a considerable water-shed above. A little period of rest and dalliance is generally indulged in here, admitted by all to be extremely pleasant. This over, those so disposed can tackle the ascent, not very difficult, and reach the upper falls, four in number, one of which is considered by some finer than the lower, and all of them derive a charm from the fact that the bush above is still almost in possession of its virgin beauty.

On reaching the summit the explorer can either follow the creek up to its source, and from thence along the mountain side and reach Dunedin by way of Halfway Bush, or, if this route be too long, a shorter one can be taken across country, bringing him to the Reservoir, previously alluded to, whence, reaching Wood-haugh, he may join the coach for the return journey, or he may deviate at the Reservoir and come along a very pleasant line to Maori Hill, from thence descending through the Belt, down past Cosey Dell to George street.

But it will not do to leave those at the Waterfalls who desire to go further in country, so returning to the conveyance, if it be a specially hired one, the traveller may proceed along a road of easy grade and good condition still further up the valley. The vistas opened up at every turning in this the county of page 287Waikouaiti, (for we have left municipalities behind us), show something ever changing, ever new, both on the right hand and on the left, all of them tempting enough to induce a stoppage in the journey, with a view of going up some of those tempting purling brooks, hopeful that in some dark spot on the downward career some rare specimen may be obtained, to be treasured as a memory of one of the most delightful excursions which can be enjoyed. The horses are a little anxious, however, so onward is the order and in due time the apex or saddle is reached, near the head waters of the Leith and the Waitati streams, each taking their several ways to the ocean.

We now propose to follow downward the Waitati, after having surveyed the mountains around, Flagstaff, Silver Peaks, and the Hummock. The road is very tortuous, and there are several points of divergence, so that it were well that the guide knew the locality. Many of the places indicated in the Peninsula drive are seen here closer at hand, but not more effectively, so need not be re-enumerated. A short run brings us down to Blueskin Bay, where at the Saratoga Hotel some refreshment can be had before commencing to re-ascend.

A very good view of the line of railway can be had from Waitati, standing at sea level, whence the gradients, both north and south, are stiff and the curves sharp, neither, however, so much so as to prevent the powerful engines dragging the heavy freight upwards, or to incur over ordinary risk in turning the corners. To the north stands Seacliff Asylum, which provides a home where those afflicted with the most terrible calamity which, flesh is heir to, can and do receive the humanest treatment which the most modern experience can suggest. To those interested in the question of insanity, the best mode of visiting the Asylum is to proceed by train. On the line to the south the bluff at the edge of the bay shows when the cliffs up to Mapotaki begin, and which for a time were passed along with no slight degree of terror on the part of the more timid passengers. Experience has proved, however, that the roadway is as safe as the most level part of the line, and a tunnel has recently been formed, through which the travellers escape passing what was deemed the worst part by the timorous.

page 288

On our way homeward, by the main Dunedin road, the first objects of interest seen and passed are the buildings intended for 'Orakanui College," at the mouth of the creek of the same name, which was started as a private enterprise, but being too heavily handicapped by the opposing endowed institution, it soon ceased to exist as a school. Close by is the Reserve, conferred on the district for agricultural shows, and not far off is the inevitable cemetery, containing the remains of one of Dunedin's well-known and highly esteemed citizens, James Marshall, to perpetuate whose memory the Jockey Club have instituted the "Marshall Memorial Stakes." In this connection it may be mentioned that the Blueskin races are held on the sands within the area of the bay, but the course, said to be a fine one, is only visible when the tide goes out. This circumstance recalls to the mind of the guide that on the far off corner of the land to the north of the bay is the country residence of the Hon. Greorge M 'Lean, M.L.A. and President of the Dunedin Jockey Club, as well as Chairman of the Colonial Bank and Union Steam Ship Company, one of the most genial and truest-hearted citizens our colony possesses.

For a time the road traverses ordinary-looking country, skirting the outline of Mount Cargill on the right, which was a dense forest of splendid totara some years ago, but now thoroughly denuded, until the junction with the Port Chalmers road is reached, and coming down hill into the North East Valley some of the choicest views of Dunedin and its surroundings are to be obtained. In fact, so highly appreciated was this line in former days, that visitors of note were driven by it into town, so that its attractiveness might be fully displayed. Down the hill we come now at a brisk pace, and passing along through the main street or road of North East Valley Borough, which, practically speaking, is the only level street within its bounds. The city is soon entered by the Leith Bridge, the point of departure, and each wends nis homeward way after a delightful day's excursion, through scenes of rare beauty, of about thirty miles.