Changing Fashions.

After a morning round the shops I have spent the after-lunch respite in glancing through some old periodicals-1916. They're really laughable, especially the fashion plates. Ideas too!—solemn articles on outside employment versus domesticity for girls with special reference as to whether the meeting of more men in an office

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life increases the chance of marriage; comprehensive lists of extra household tasks, from the rubbing up of gilt picture-frames to the polishing of the butler's tray and trestles. Thank goodness I have no butler; my gilt picture frames, after being kept, sentimentally, for a few years, were finally sent away with a load of rubbish; and my daughter will cause me no qualms when she announces that she is taking up a position instead of “staying home with mother.” (I'd probably call in the family doctor if she showed a preference for watering the pot-plants, crocheting d'oyleys, doing the flowers, visiting the poor, and receiving callers.)

Although I smiled at 1916 fashions, I don't think we have advanced so much in that line. Probably in clothes there is less scope for advancement. The little tricks of adornment repeat themselves over and over again. 1916 liked a feather in the hat, but bunchy rather than slim and long. The small hats rather resembled those of to-day except in height, but the large ones have no counterpart in 1937 winter fashions. I saw an illustration of one striped-silk frock, with raglan sleeves, and a peplum and inset vest in plain material, which could be worn to-day without remark. Both peplum and tunic styles were popular then, frequently in combination, which gave the wearer the appearance of a wedding-cake in three tiers.

A full bodice attached to a fitting yoke was as popular as it is to-day. Skirts were gored and flared, but long and with over-decorative pockets. Blouses were then, as now, tempting additions to the wardrobe. Eton collar and cuff sets lent the same air of smartness, and buttons were used in slanting lines as on some of the latest models.

My brief study of 1916 was amusing and profitable. It made me realise what is important in the present mode. I list the following:—

Wide shoulders.

High necklines, frequently draped.

Flaring skirts (one new model has a surprising amount of fullness in the back breadth).

Bordered hemlines (of flat fur or astrakan on woollens, of embroidery or self ruching on

silks. One taffeta suit had the coat also bordered with ruching).

Evening frocks with empire lines, swirling skirts, looped draperies over the shoulders.

Unusual, a woollen frock in a huge plaid design in beige, brown, and a suspicion of yellow; tucked raglan shoulders; at the neckline a deep brown velvet bow to flatter brown eyes.