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VII
January to December 1833

Peace parleys — Voyage to Tauranga and Maketu — East Cape Maoris captured by Captain Black — Busby arrives — Rotorua asks for missionaries — Ploughs used at Waimate — Death of Tohitapu — Journey to Thames and Waikato — Te Waharoa — Journey to Whangaroa.

Tuesday, 1 January, 1833. Fine. Through many tender mercies are we brought to another period of time, and before we proceed, it may be well to gaze for a moment on the rugged path over which we have traversed during the last twelve months. The past year has been a season of considerable anxiety on behalf of our poor natives, and conflict with the great Adversary of our souls; but more were they who were for us than those who were against us; for the Lord of Hosts was with us, the God of Jacob was our refuge.

The year opened with great political agitation, threatening destruction to multitudes. Most of the tribes around gathered themselves together and left for Tauranga, thus disregarding our counsel, and after about 5 months vainly trying their best efforts to subdue Tauranga, they in apparent confusion returned without effecting their object—the overthrow of that people. Some few remained behind and have continued the war with loss on both sides, and are now preparing for a fresh campaign. May the Lord put His hook in their nose, and frustrate their mad design.

The various families have experienced illness in a greater or less degree, and though some were brought nigh unto the grave, yet none have departed. Surely goodness and mercy have followed us until now.

Our Missionary efforts have prospered and increased and we have the prospect of extending our borders tho the great Enemy has opposed us vigorously, and has taken up a new position in order to withstand us, but this, “Lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world”, supports us under every trial and perplexity.

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Marupo came early to see us; had a good deal of conversation with him, and was thankful to learn that none of that tribe think of moving to the Southd to join the expedition. My brother arrived from Hokianga. Mr. Brown and I went over to Omata to see Mrs. Wright, hearing that Reed was in a state of intoxication, having “been keep Christmas”, and keeping all in bodily fear; glad to find all quiet. Saw Rewa there. He spoke of going to Waikato.

Wednesday, 2. Reed came over in a great hurry to say that Mrs. Wright was in a great fright owing to the rude conduct of Te Rou¹; gave the man a serious talking to; he is a wild mad fellow. In the afternoon went to pay a visit to my boys at Karaka; working well.

Thursday, 3. Fine. Boys at work preparing land.

Friday, 4. Fine. Went up the Kerikeri to fetch the children. Ship Conway arrived.

Saturday, 5. Cloudy. Commenced cutting posts in the bush behind.

Sunday, 6. Fine. The Ship Sisters, Cap. Duke, arrived. No sooner was the anchor gone than Cap. and Mrs. Duke came on shore. The Captain soon informed me that Mrs. D. was very much indisposed and that he had a great desire to procure accommodation for her on shore, and that Mrs. Brown had expressed a desire that she should remain with her. To this I could say but little, as Mrs. Brown was not in the Settlement. We therefore accommodated Mrs. D. as well as we could, and consoled ourselves as well as the circumstances of the case would admit of.

Monday, 7. Strong wind through the night with rain. At daylight the wind ceased. Left for the Kerikeri. We were overtaken with much rain but arrived in good time. Commenced business at 3 o'clock. In the evening prayer meeting.

Tuesday, 8. Cloudy, with strong wind from South; cold. Fires very comfortable tho in the middle of summer. All day engaged in parish business.

Wednesday, 9. Entered upon the question of a visit to the Southd. with aview to examine for a future Station, which with other business drawing stores &c. occupied us until 3 o'clock, when we adjourned to Wednesday next, being all tired. Returned home by dusk, all well. Mrs. Duke obtained accommodation at Cap. Clendon's. A man named Field, who had been engaged to make some furniture, nearly drowned; a poor miserable wretch, a drunken professor of religion.

Friday, 11. Fine. Went over to Kororarika; saw Hakiro, who

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was very polite, and called everyone within reach to draw near; all expressed themselves well. Passed on to Rewa, who was repairing a fishing net; all left their employment and came and entered into conversation, but Rewa evidently shewed that he had no part in the matter. He observed that the Natives would go to Tauranga and overcome that people, little regarding that the battle is not to the strong, nor the race to the swift. I told him our regard for all was very great, that we were much concerned to observe their indifference to the message of our God to them. In the afternoon a Brig arrived from Sydney, a few letters and registers. In the eveng. met several of our natives in conference.

Saturday, 12. My brother returned from Hokianga.

Sunday, 13. After service went to Otuihu. Saw Hihi. Several Europeans came and entered into conversation. Titore² landed at Kororarika.

Monday, 14. My brother and I went to Kororarika to learn the state of general feeling. Saw Rewa first; he told us that the Napuhi would not go to Tauranga; this we were glad to hear but desired to have it confirmed. Passed on to Tareha and Titore. The latter appeared sullen for some time, but afterwards recovered himself; he seemed to assume great importance.

Tuesday, 15. Gale through the night; much rain. In the afternoon the weather cleared up. Took my family to the Kerikeri; arrived at 10 o'clock.

Wednesday, 16. At committee all day upon the question of a mission to the Southd.

Thursday, 17. Fine. Engaged all the forenoon in making out indent. At 4 left for the Waimate. Mr. Clarke having brought the cart for Mrs. W. and the children, besides four horses for the remainder of the party. Everyone enjoyed the ride, which was a very delightful change. It was dusk before we arrived at our quarters, where we found Mrs. Clarke much better than we expected. Everything was very comfortable, and plenty of room for the children to run about.

Friday, 18. Heavy rain in the morng., which cleared off in the afternoon. A number of the Rarawa in the Settlement on their way to Kororarika. We had a long conversation with them upon the importance of turning from these lying vanities unto the one true and living God. We were in hopes that they might yet be deterred from their desire to accompany Titore.

Saturday, 19. Fine morning. Mr. Clarke conducted Mrs. W.,

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Miss Coldham and myself, to the Lake of Maupere.³ It is a very grand object in the centre of the Island and beautifully wooded. We here remained for a considerable time admiring the scenery around and examining an old fortification on a promontory which extended some distance into the lake. No one was residing here at this time.

Sunday, 20. Fine. After morning service I went to the Kerikeri for the purpose of publishing the bans of marriage between Mr. Preece and Miss Williams for the last time. I found the ride exceedingly hot. The service was late. A large body of the Rarawa at the settlement but none attended the eveng. service. I felt too fatigued to go over to see them. Titore was with them.

Monday, 21. The natives left at sunrise. After breakfast Mr. Baker and I went down to Kororarika. Everybody was busy attending to the wants of the newly arrived visitors. Titore spoke very well but I have my doubts of him. We were glad to learn that none of the Ngapuhi were likely to join the expedition. No speeches took place, consequently we left early and passed over to Paihia.

Tuesday, 22. Observed a number of canoes standing in from the Northd. which we concluded to be a party of the Rarawa. Mr. Baker and I went over to Kororarika and met them on landing. There were about 100 men, of whom Te Morenga appeared to be the Chief : we addressed a few words to him, but they were not according to his views; he was for war. We passed up to the Kerikeri, greatly lamenting the dominion which Satan held over these poor people.

Wednesday, 23. Fine. Mrs. Williams and family returned from the Waimate, having much refreshed themselves by their visit. The change of scene was very great to them, not having removed from the seaside for many years.

Thursday, 24. Fine. Felt very unwell, and could not enjoy the examination of the school, which took place this morng. In the eveng felt much better. Heavy rain. Mr. Preece arrived.

Friday, 25. The Wedding!!! At break of day the Natives surrounded Mr. Baker's house (where was the bride elect) making a vociferous noise, several making speeches together, the purport of which was, that the lady should not depart from the settlement unless a very great fee was paid down, worthy of her great excellencies. The boys after amusing themselves at the expense of the happy pair for some considerable time, obtained their fee, which was a pair of blankets for the purpose of buying pigs, for a feast in honour of the great occasion. Mr. Brown performed the ceremony

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which took place at 11 o'clock. After partaking of a cold collation, the Bride and Bridegroom set off for the Waimate, and we for Paihia, where we arrived about 4 o'clock, and met Captain and Mrs. Duke, the latter of whom exhibited an effective scene to move the sympathy of our good wives to receive her into the settlement under their protection, as she would long stand in need of a Doctor and Nurse; but the prospect being too alarming to the economy of our arrangements and proceedings, it was declined, but not acceded to without considerable efforts. The good lady was recommended to Mrs. Clendon, Mrs. Wright or to some other of the sisterhood dwelling in our neighbourhood. This interview had nearly brought on a serious illness with Mrs. Brown, on whose friendship the good Captain and his lady had evidently laid some claim from the circumstance of an uncle having seen a relative of Mrs. B. in England.

Saturday, 26. Fine. In the Eveng. an alarm was given that the Rarawa were coming in the morng. in order to upset the settlement in consequence of an expression said to have proceeded from one of my boys, stating that the Head of Papahia⁴, the Chief of the party at Kororarika, should be smashed by Nateawa on his arrival at Tauranga. We enquired into the case, when there did not appear the slightest foundation for the report.

Sunday, 27. Fine. In the afternoon I went to Kororarika to see the natives there, and to ascertain the state of their minds. On landing Titore came down to the nose of the boat, and began to play at Draughts and calling on the name of Jesus Christ to strike off his hands. I spoke to him, but he was determined to be angry. I therefore passed on and went to Tareha. He was unusually civil. Before I left the beach I called on Titore as I was passing, and required some explanation of his conduct. He told me we were a wicked people and delighted in using bad and irritating language and repeating the reports he had heard. I desired him to call his evidence, which he endeavoured to do but could not produce any except hearsay evidence. It was at length traced to an old woman whom no one knew anything of and consequently the indictment was quashed. Titore said it was the first time we had had any quarrel, and we must make peace, which I was glad to do on account of these poor people. I walked on to see the Rarawa, but they were too busy in preparing Kia turia te Ngarahau (to have

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their dance and speeches) previous to their movement towards Tauranga. They appeared to partake more than usual of the spirit of their father the Devil, and to exult in thus violating the Ra tapu. All was soon confusion and we were glad to escape to our more peaceful region.

Monday, 28. Fine. The Rarawa left the Bay this morning after committing some depredations upon the natives; they are an uncouth set of fellows and are thus considered by those around. Went to Te Puna to see Mr. Shepherd to request him to join our expedition to the Southd.

Tuesday, 29. Fine. Cap. Clendon arrived from the Colony; a few letters. Pango, the chief from Rotorua, who accompanied Titore from thence, came over to see us. We had a long conversation with him upon missionary subjects; he appeared to wish for some of us to live among his people, which certainly would be highly important. This man is related to several persons in the Settlement, and is an old acquaintance of ours, as we saved his head about six years since when closely pursued by the Ngapuhi, at the time that Hongi received his wound at Wangaroa, as he was charged with having makutud Hongi upon that occasion, which caused his wound. He fled to us for safety, when we obtained a passage for him on board a vessel which conveyed him to his place.

Wednesday, 30. Mr. White arrived from Hokianga.

Thursday, 31. Fine. Engaged all day with Dr. Ross⁵ a physician who had come down from Port Jackson for the benefit of his health, with Mrs. Ross, under the expectation of residing here. Walked with him to Waitangi to show him that part of the country, with which he was very much pleased, and proposed to purchase a spot there. Old Hiamoe and several others came to have some conversation about our projected voyage to Tauranga; they proposed that some of their party should go with us; did not give a definite answer.

Friday, 1 February. Nene⁶, Kekehau⁷ and others came into the settlement; their conversation upon the general topic, the expedition to Tauranga; they appeared in doubts whether to go or not. I spent much time with them, talking over state affairs. In the afternoon heavy rain. Gale from North.

Saturday, 2. We hear that it is concluded that the Ngapuhi are

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not going, and we hope but few of the Rarawa. Titore may perhaps have yet to learn wisdom, as he has rejected all we have had to say to him; he appears flushed with a partial victory and expresses a desire that no one may go with him. His language to us is favourable.

Sunday, 3. Fine. A goodly number of Natives at service. Chapel very full. In the afternoon a large congregation of Europeans. Much cast down on account of the Natives at Kororarika. Tareha in a great rage today at Rawiri, he came toward him when at Kororarika roaring like an infuriated bull, in consequence of some of the answers in one of the Catchisms being opposed to his views of strict propriety, in as much as all men, without distinction of rank are brought under condemnation, who believe not in the name of the Son of God. This doctrine as observed may do for Slaves and Europeans but not for a free and noble people like the Ngapuhi, therefore they will not receive it. Heard that Taeopa⁸, a small cutter, (which had formerly belonged to the natives, but now it appeared had been purchased by a man of the name of Poyner) had been seized last evening by Titore and his people, and that some of the europeans had been ill used. The reason assigned was that she had not been fully paid for, that she was tapud in consequence of the heads she had brought from the Southd. and that they required her to convey their ammunition and provision to Maketu. As very gross imposition had been practised upon the natives respecting their purchase of this vessel, we could not express that disapprobation we should have done under any other circumstance.

Monday, 4. Rain all day. Wind from E.N.E. Sailed over to Kororarika to see Titore and Tarea, respecting our going up to the Southd. Titore was very civil; he related the particulars of the seizure of the Cutter and claimed her on behalf of the Natives as she had never been sold by them. It was concluded that we should join them at Maketu. Titore mentioned that the Capn. of the Brig which is going to convey him to Maketu with the bulk of their baggage and provision, was very urgent with them to ship their things yesterday, but that they would not comply with his desires, as it was the Ra tapu. Thus we find Heathens preaching to a Christian, calling his attention to the command of Heaven, “Remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy”. The reply of this Christian was, that they were not missionaries and did not regard these things. Titore gave me a Mere as a sign of peace being established between us.

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Tuesday, 5. Titore sailed this morng.⁹ in the Port Jackson Brig with 1000 baskets of potatoes, arms, stores, &c., to be used against Nateawa, the people of Tauranga. Mr. Chapman arrived ready for a departure, having taken leave of home. Much conversation in the eveng. determining the course of our proceedings.

Wednesday, 6. Fine. Mr. Chapman and I went over to Kororarika to see Tareha, as some objections had been raised to our going to the Southd., that our movements would frustrate their plans. This is most certainly our desire and aim and constant prayer, that they may be delivered from those chains of darkness with which they have been so long bound, and become the sons and daughters of the Lord Almighty, through Jesus Christ their Redeemer, that this dark corner of the Earth, which has been for centuries full of the habitations of cruelty, may yet rejoice as the garden of the Lord. We found Tareha asleep and could not rouse him up. At length he came out of his den, smiled and looked gracious and entered upon the news of the day. He had no objection to offer to our going forward, but spoke of our proceeding in the morning. We passed on to Wai and the remainder of his party. They were all very civil and made many enquiries and expressed a wish that we should keep in company. Returned to Paihia and concluded my preparations for a movement in the morning.

Thursday, 7. This present visit to the Southd. has occupied much thought and conversation and been the subject of many prayers that we may obtain divine guidance. With the Thames we have had no communication except a partial visit last year, tho many invitations have been held out by the Chiefs visiting the Bay of Islands. Our plans were therefore arranged to go first to Haurake and to pass on to Waikato, but owing to the opposition shown by Tarea and other Chiefs to our going thither, lest messengers proceed from thence to Tauranga, we determined to change our route and go direct to Maketu, see the contending parties and endeavour if possible to moderate their feelings, at least to see them and shew them how contrary are their proceedings to the peaceful spirit of the Gospel of Jesus Christ. If on our return we can effect a call in the Thames, we shall gladly commence an acquaintance in this quarter.

The morning was very fine and the bay perfectly smooth with a light air from S.S.W. Much bustle in placing the baggage in the boats, which had been collected with much care, both for quality and compactness of stowage and convenience, as we contemplated

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an absence of many weeks, and should have to abide in tents during the period. All was prepared and ready for departure by 8 o'clock, and we took leave at 9; the natives in the settlement saluting us with their guns. Mr. Chapman was in his own boat, and the Karere in company for the purpose of taking potatoes for the boys, and of rendering assistance if needed. Taeapo and an American ship standing out of the Bay. Our sailing was very pleasant, and at noon we rounded Cape Brett. Wind shifted to the seabreeze. At 2 observed a strange sail to the Northd., could not make her out. Much admired the action of our boat; she sailed with much elegance, and possessed great accommodation. At 6 we landed at Wangaruru, and pitched our tent in a quiet spot among the bushes. Discovered a place where a human head had but recently been prepared. Obliged to retire early to bed owing to a severe headache from long abstinence, not having taken any food, and exposed to a burning sun.

Friday, 8. Woke several times in consequence of fleas, the occupants of the land. Found myself much better for a rest, moved on at daylight with a pleasant breeze. Karere a few miles distant. At 9 o'clock pulled into Wananaki, a fine broad river for small vessels. We here breakfasted; coffee excellent. At 1 we entered Tutukaka, having left Mr. Chapman far behind. Took some ovsters, which we found in great abundance, and pulled on to Taiharuru. As we approached, the wind suddenly shifted to South and blew strong. With difficulty we found an entrance, as the sea was breaking heavily on the rocks. We passed in safely and obtained snug quarters within a long chain of rocks which broke off the sea and formed a good shelter for canoes and boats.

Saturday, 9. Fine morning. We were delaved 2 hours owing to the tide being out; not sufficient water for the boats; took breakfast and pulled out. A Brig standing to the Northd., Taeopo to leeward; passed on with a fine breeze to Te Wara, the outer head of Wangari. The wind increasing we pulled in with great difficulty into the Harbour. We were much disappointed at not finding the Karere here but more so at learning that there were no natives up the river¹⁰, all having been dispersed some time since by a party from Waikato. A large fire was observed to the Southd., supposed to be the Rarawa. No inhabitants hitherto seen; all desolation; wind very strong during the remainder of the day; everyone felt weary from the heat of the weather, and the long and heavy pull into the

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harbour. We occupied the place we did last year, but no one here but ourselves.

Sunday, 10. Much rain in the night but fine morning. No signs of living creatures near us. Determined to proceed up the river to see for ourselves if there was no one in the neighbourhood with whom we could communicate upon the nature of eternal things. We accordingly took advantage of the flood tide, but to no purpose. We saw the wreck of an Englishman's house, but no creature. When last here there was a large party at the Pa and several Europeans in various places around, but all are gone, shewing the distressing effects of war. Landed our Messenger for Paihia and returned to our quarters. This Sunday appears a Blank; everyone feeling out of order. In the evening held service with our boys.

Monday, 11. At 3.30 woke the boys to proceed on. Clouds flying fast over the moon, tho but little wind with us; dark, hazy morning. We had an agreeable sail as far as Mangawai by 9 o'clock. From appearances the Rarawa must have left in the night, as their feet marks were not washed out in the sand. Had a comfortable breakfast, but the wind was so much increased that we were glad to put back after getting under weigh. The boys employed themselves in fishing. At 2 o'clock put out under close reefed sails and passed along very comfortably, keeping close to the shore. At 3.30 obs'd fires at Wakatuwenua, and by 5 landed amongst the Rarawa, and was glad to find Rawiri among them; they were all very kind. I had a long conversation with them, and we afterwards assembled all to prayers, previous to our leaving them to pull round to the Karere, which was at Omaha our old and favourite spot. It was near 8 o'clock before we arrived at our quarters, where we immediately kindled fires amongst the trees, pitched our tents, and soon found ourselves at home; took supper, had prayers, and went to bed, weary.

Tuesday, 12. Fine night. No one disposed to rise early, being very tired from yesterdays movements. Wind strong from Westd.; fleas very numerous; learnt that the Rarawa had passed on to Hauturu (the little Barrier) in the night. As the distance across the Thames to Cape Colvel is great and the sea generally considerable, we concluded to remain quiet and arrange our things. Toward evening as the wind had much abated and the weather clear, we thought it well to take the advantage and put across. We moved off at sunset in company with Karere. After about two hours the wind began to muffle, which caused a good deal of sea for a boat, but we passed on surprisingly well, the boys admiring the abilities of our frail bark.

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Wednesday, 13. Fresh breezes. By 1 we came into smooth water. Shortened sail and ran close in shore, pulled round to Port Charles, and came to an anchor till daylight, not wishing to land as the boys were somewhat apprehensive of Parekeawiowio¹¹, a noted character, Lord of this part of the land, and one who has killed many a traveller while reposing within his dominions. At daybreak we landed in a quiet bay, where the boys immediately commenced to explore the neighbourhood for Karakas, and some to get shell fish. Our breakfast was very refreshing, and by the aid of a good wash and a good fire we were soon able to continue our voyage after a short examination as to the nature of this Port as laid down on the chart. We were much interested with all we saw here as it was near this place we so narrowly escaped shipwreck last year. Examined the bay or inlet called Port Charles, which is incapable of offering any shelter even for the Karere. The sea breeze came suddenly on and for some time it appeared doubtful whether the little vessel would work out. Passed on to Ahuahu, the Northern of the Mercury islands where we found refuge in the Active last year. Very snug quarters among the bushes, and Karere laying in the River. The boys dispersed to reconnoitre. Some of them returned loaded with dried shark apparently left behind in flight, a fine prize for the boys. As we came out of Port Charles took particular notice of the rocks and coast which had well nigh marked our tomb on the 8th of Apl. last, and I consider that the Active could not have been more than half cable length from the shore when so mercifully preserved. Assembled our boys at dusk to prayers and retired to rest. Very weary.

Thursday, 14. Cloudy, wind W.N.W. One week from home this morning and but one interview with any natives and only one day's sail from Tauranga. Yet we cannot proceed until the Rarawa pass on, unless we go direct to Maketu. A handsome curry and peach pudding for dinner. Our fishing party took a considerable number. Some of the boys cutting firewood, there not being any at Maketu.

Friday, 15. Felt very unwell. Boys getting fern root in order to spare our stock of provision, as we must not expect to purchase any. Many human bones¹² lay scattered upon the surface of the ground, the remains of some of their horrid repasts. Saw no appearance of the fires of the Rarawa. Prospect of rain, prepared accordingly.

Saturday, 16. Fine. Determined to remain quiet until Monday

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and proceed on. Continued unwell. Some of the boys brought in dried shark. Prepared for departure on Monday.

Sunday, 17. Cloudy. Wind from N.W. Continued unwell. Held a very comfortable service with the boys after breakfast. Much out of sorts during the remainder of the day,

Monday, 18. Wind and Rain with lightning; could not move from our quarters. The boys foraging for food, shellfish, fern root, &c., &c. In the eveng. fine; prepared for a move in the morng.

Tuesday, 19. At daylight, dark cloudy weather, light airs from the West, and the scud flying rapidly. Left our retreat and moved out. Soon found a wind and sea; passed most rapidly along. A little after 7 o'clock entered Mercury bay; landed on a quiet beach to breakfast; a fine stream of water falling from a cliff close to us, and the trees overhanging us. Having concluded our repast we sang a hymn with the boys, and offered up our Morning sacrifice to the Lord of Heaven and Earth. I could not but reflect while preparation was making for our proceeding, that of the multitudes who have passed over the very stones on which we were sitting, in their expedition to and from the war, none had been found to give praise to the Lord : that this was in all probability the first time since the Creation that any had approached the Throne of Grace in this part of the world. It was past 8 before we loosed from this quiet spot to engage a firy breeze and foaming sea which was running at this time for the wind was very strong. It was doubtful for some time whether we could continue our course, but by going under easy sail we went comfortably, observing the inlets and islands close to the shore. About 2 o'clock entered Tairua, a river into which small vessels may go, tho several banks and shoals inside. No signs of any inhabitant, no smoke to be seen in the distance. The country bore the general character of New Zealand scenery, a succession of hill and dale, it was however a picturesque place. The high land was covered with timber and there appeared many rich tracts of land but no hand to cultivate. Took a hasty survey of the river while the boys were getting shell fish and karaka. Had dinner and crossed over to Wakahau, where the Karere was at anchor. Drew the boats on shore as the weather seemed threatening. Before we could complete our tents rain commenced and continued. We felt thankful for the shelter afforded. Our run was very considerable this day.

Wednesday, 20. Rain more or less through the night, my tent perfectly tight by the assistance of some painted cloths. At daylight the weather cleared off a little, but as the wind was not fair, we kept our place. Boys catching eels and shell fish, digging fern root.

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In the evening, weather more favourable, prepared for a move in the morning.

Thursday, 21. Quiet night. At daylight cloudy, but little wind from S.S.W. Rawiri, Hamu¹³, and her dog, joined us in the boats. Weather doubtful. A pleasant sail to Wangamata. When at the entrance the wind sprang up from the S.E., and increased through the day. Appearance of natives having been recently here from the interior, as a number of sheds were standing by the river side. The boys brought two kittens from them, which Hamu took charge of as tho they were children. Every one collecting food. In the evening wind increased to a gale with rain. Under considerable apprehension about Karere, as the wind appeared from the only point to which she could be exposed. Tho it was blowing a severe gale outside with heavy rain, yet our encampment was so very snug and quiet that we were scarcely put to any inconvenience, being protected by bushes and trees. Rawiri related former deeds of cruelty and murder practised in this river but he was now upon a different errand, that of speaking peace through Jesus Christ.

Friday, 22. Dreary stormy night, but our tents did not give way, nor did the rain penetrate, nor is our health in any wise affected by the damp around. The sea roars with awful majesty at the entrance of the river being one perpetual foam. Our situation begins to be tedious and wearisome. It is now more than a fortnight since we left our homes, and we have seen no one except the Rarawa at one interval and we cannot proceed until the sea is smooth, but it is the Lord's work in which we are engaged, it is His honour we seek. and we would desire to commit ourselves to Him. Heavy rain.

Saturday, 23. Wind died away in the night; every appearance of fine weather in which the birds seem to rejoice, their melody fills the surrounding woods and bushes. We felt happy in being able to put out our heads and look abroad. The boys departed early to the neighbouring woods in quest of food, and others to look after Karere, to observe if any signal of distress were shewn. At noon wind tho light still from the sea. The mosquitos and namus exceedingly troublesome, could not escape from them.

Sunday, 24. Clear morng. sea smooth, no signs of life, no sound of the Church going bell. How melancholy the reflection, once these hills and vallies were peopled though with savage hordes, but of late years they have been hunted as the deer until few remain, and they driven into the interior; but surely this work of destruction

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shall cease and this wilderness shall rejoice and blossom as the rose, and these hills resound with songs of praise to God and the Lamb.

After breakfast assembled our little congregation under the shadow of the wide spreading Pohutukaua, and held service; it was sweet and refreshing to know that we with all the Israel of God, were engaged in the service and enjoying the presence of our common Father and Friend, tho absent in body still present in spirit with them; these are the privileges of the Christian:

Where two or three with sweet accord
Obedient to their Sovereign Lord,
Meet to recount his acts of grace,
And offer solemn praise and prayer—
There, says the Saviour, will I be,
Amid this little company,
To them unveil my smiling face,
And shed my glories round the place.

At sunset the sky became overcast, and the breeze sprung up from the S.E. with rain, which seemed to indicate a protracted stay in this quarter. At first the thought was painful but we were enabled to leave all to the great Disposer of events, and retired to rest under a sense of our infinite obligation to him for his unspeakable mercies to us.

Monday, 25. A quiet night and clear morning, but the surf was roaring at the entrance. Took breakfast, struck our encampment, and pulled out to take a view of the sea, which we found very considerable, and heavy swell. The breeze springing up from the Eastd. we were obliged to return to our old quarters, and were most severely beset with namus; they were ravenous and found their way through every covering; we were obliged to bind up our hands and feet on account of them, but could not effectually keep clear of them. At sunset clear sky. The boys returned from foraging, they brought a good quantity of fern root.

Tuesday, 26. Fine morning. I intended to move at break of day but the boys were apprehensive of a Southerly wind; delayed till 9 o'clock when we pulled out in quest of a wind. A breeze sprung up at East, which shifted in the course of the day to North. Passed on at an agreeable rate to Karewa. Mr. Chapman out of sight. The boys landed and caught a number of young birds and found some potatoes, which afforded them a good supper. Entered Tauranga by 9 o'clock, landed under the Great Hill, “Maunga nui.” Kindled fires and cooked our supper which we all stood much in need of having taken nothing. Rolled ourselves up in blankets, and laid

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down on the ground. Not wishing to be seen we were obliged to keep close, lest the Ngapuhi should be displeased at our holding intercourse with the enemy before seeing them. Felt thankful for mercies received and for the favourable wind through the day and that it did not favour us yesterday, as the sea was very uncomfortable from the late gale. Our distance run today about 40 miles.

Wednesday, 27. Fine night. Slept well; not disturbed by any intruders. At break of day all were in the boats and on the move. As we passed out of the harbour several guns were discharged at Maungatapu, most probably at having gained sight of us. We passed along with a gentle breeze, about 3/4 of a mile from the beach. Several of Nateawa on shore gazing at us not knowing what to make of us whether friend or foe. One canoe fishing of the Pa pulled out of our way. We waved to them but they would not trust us. When abreast of the Tumu¹⁴ a great gun was fired. The fence appeared of a temporary nature, and the canoes lay carelessly about. As we drew near to Maketu we observed the flag hoisted half mast high, and soon learnt that 10 persons had yesterday been killed by the opposite party on the road to Rotorua. We were received very graciously by all on shore, all turned out to meet us, and soon gave us the news of the day. Had some interesting conversations with the leading persons, and from what I can discern, the Ngapuhi would be glad to return. It was however proposed to remain quiet until the natives shall be assembled, and then to have a general enquiry as to what shall be done, whether peace or war. The people appear far better disposed than I could have expected, and I sincerely hope that something may be accomplished. There is much pleading for Missionaries to be dispersed among them to preserve peace. At noon took breakfast on flying fish and coffee; the boys occupied in pitching the tents, putting a fence around them to keep off intruders &c., &c. Between 5 and 6 we assembled the natives for prayers. They were not quite so quiet as formerly, but it was quite a relief to speak to them upon things relating to their peace, The natives in the Pa chattering till a late hour.

Thursday, 28. A comfortable night, free from fleas. We had been very apprehensive of being devoured alive by them owing to the number of natives around. Two old ladies slept at my tent door as my guard. At daylight our boys and a number of the natives of

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the place, repeating the catechism, to the apparent admiration of all. A fine Kahawai sent for our breakfast. Number of spectators during the day. Long conversation with several chiefs respecting war; general expression of hope for peace, and desire for some of us to come amongst them; many insisted on Mr. Chapman's remaining. Long dispute respecting superstitions of the New Zealanders; much wonder expressed at what I said to them respecting the state of our fore fathers, and the similarity between the two people. The doctrine of the resurrection of the body also gained their serious attention, tho they observed that it was a hard saying, who could believe it. Pita's misconduct has caused much evil. This man and his wife were baptised about 4 years since, and accompanied Mr. Chapman and myself in our first visit to this neighbourhood. We had pleasing expectations of him then, tho not so much so of his wife, but he appears altogether to have fallen away; yet often have I rejoiced to hear him engage in prayer and address his countrymen, as he far exceeded in ability our old friend Rawiri, who is more slow and somewhat heavy, yet very sincere. Pita endured for a while, and the natives paid much respect to him.

In the afternoon we walked through the Pa, a dirty filthy place, no order or plan in the arrangement of the works, everything in a careless state. A prodigious quantity of fish caught of all kinds; procured a few for the boys. Examined the entrance to the river, nearly dry at low water, and exposed to the northerly wind which throws in a heavy sea. We had a pleasing conversation with Titore, &c., &c. They are evidently desirous for peace, but did not wish us to move to the Pa at present, but wait the arrival of the Rarawa.

Three weeks today since we left home but I trust we are engaged in important duty and that the Lord will bless and protect our partners and families in our absence. These people are in a sad destitute state, and need all we can do for them that they may be delivered from the cruel dominion of Satan. I fear the dilatory movements of the natives will materially clash with our desires, but all are extremely kind. After we had retired to rest many guns fired and much talking in the Pa.

Friday, 1 March. Fine morning. Boys out to get fern root. Titore came to make a call. Intelligence of several having been killed to the Southd. by a distant people. A party just arrived from the interior, came and sat up for two hours in close conversation. In the afternoon a fresh party came who found me reading; they desired me to put down my book and talk with them, which request I of course immediately complied with. They observed that I spoke

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many strange things, for my subject was Jesus and the resurrection. They were a good deal interested and expressed a desire that we should remain with them and they would work for us and plant potatoes, &c., for us; for how could they believe in Him of whom they have never heard. They said they desired to leave off war, but were afraid of other parties, who would harrass them, as they had suffered most. My soul grieved within me for I deeply felt their state. At sunset a blanket belonging to one of my boys was missed, of course stolen. Old Korokai made a great noise, and set all in commotion. Every enquiry made, but to no purpose. Was obliged to send him to retire to rest for the whole place appeared to be up in arms; great confusion for some time, at length it gradually subsided, like the expiring of a great fire, until all was silent, which prevailed for some time, when our attention was awakened by numbers of groups chanting a certain composition of their own, respecting our last visit to Rotorua. We were a great deal amused with it.

Saturday, 2. Much wind and rain during the night; at daylight wind shifted; clear day. The boys repairing our fence round the tents to fortify against any gales we may experience here as we may probably have to remain some little time. About 40 persons set off this morning from the Pa towards the Tumu, the Pa of Nateawa, to give challenge in consequence of the persons killed on Tuesday; a few shots were exchanged but with every feeling of respect. But very few persons came near us this morng. owing to the scolding of Korokai last eveng. In the afternoon they gathered round and we had much conversation with them. A good number at evening prayer. In the evening the old chief Korokai¹⁵ was sitting with a few others talking with us. I considered it a good opportunity to give him a blanket for his kindness to us on our former visit. I brought one out and spread it over him. The poor old man quite jumped with astonishment and was much delighted; truly he could appreciate the value of a present of this nature, yet our words upon spiritual things appear little better than idle tales. He listens with indifference to the intelligence of peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ, and of eternal rest to believers beyond the grave. — Orders given this morning to prepare for the morrow as it was the Ra tapu, when no one was to move to fish or for any other purpose. In the evening great noise in the Pa respecting a pig which had been killed yesterday.

Sunday, 3. Fine morning. The investigation of the Pig's sudden dissolution renewed which appeared to occupy every attention; a

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great noise. The natives came out about 9 o'clock, and assembled round us to attend service; a goodly company tho not all. We were glad to see Titore amongst the number and others of his party, as it was more than we had expected from the strong opposition he has shewn at home. Their attention was good. When all was concluded I joined Titore &c. who is the principal person here, and had a long conversation with him. He observed that my speech or sermon was good. Poor fellow, it is a great thing for him to express any mark of approbation on such subjects. Before he left us, he mentioned that he expected to go in the morning to meet the Rarawa, and that we must not go over to the Enemy in his absence, that we must be courageous and sit quietly for few days until all were assembled. One old chief covered with wounds introduced himself; he appeared a restless being, and spoke of nothing but obtaining satisfaction for persons who had been killed. It does not enter into their theory of making peace unless they receive an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth, and thus their perpetual wars. We should have been glad to have gone today to the Tumu, the Pa of Natemaru¹⁶, but must obey orders. In the afternoon a messenger from Rotorua, among other news, that Te Rauparaha, the Chief of Entry Island, had crossed over to the Southern Island¹⁷, carrying destruction. How dreadful this continual bloodshed; when indeed shall the word of the Lord be fulfilled, when the sword shall be beaten into ploughshares, and the spears into pruning hooks, when nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more. What a field of labour lies open before us, and who shall see the end thereof. I have been much encouraged by the observations of this people respecting Missionaries and their desire for their appearance here to check the evil which abounds. All seem sensible of the advantage of our being with them, and contrast our proceedings with those Europeans who seek not them but theirs. A good number attended our evening service, after which several chiefs spoke in turn. One old chief mentioned his interview with his relatives long since dead who spoke of the excellence of the Po. We continued our conversation till dusk. Rawiri mentioned that we should return tomorrow if not allowed to proceed to Nateawa. Several became uneasy, and enquiries in the course of the evening as to the truth of this, and requested us to remain quietly until the

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Chiefs should assemble and the Rarawa arrive. As we had no intention of moving they appeared satisfied.

Monday, 4. A quiet night, but several fleas in the neighbourhood. Offers of some fish taken yesterday, but declined. While we were at dinner, my boy Patu was announced on the opposite side of the river. He was immediately surrounded by these natives, who appeared disposed to treat him roughly as coming from and belonging to the enemy, tho he had lived for four years past with me. The poor boy was relieved of his blanket before we could send our lads to his assistance; it was recovered after some difficulty. The boy came from the Karere which was at anchor at Waikorire. No particular news, except that Kiaroa sent his kind regards and desired to see us.

Tuesday, 5. Fine night. Taepo the vessel in possession of Ngapuhi sailed this morning in quest of the Rarawa. Several arrivals through the day from Rotorua and Wakatane. A terrible howling most of the day, set up by the women, who are always the chief performers in these ceremonies. This is frequently accompanied by the cutting of their faces and arms, to indicate their great affection for their newly arrived friends, while the men are engaged in relating the transactions of the day, or the scenes through which they have passed since last they met; this is delivered with great spirit and animation. The Chief of the party from Wakatane came to see us and brought a basket of potatoes, which in this season is no inconsiderable present, as provision of this kind has been consumed long since by the assembled multitude, who are far removed from their cultivations, and are obliged to subsist on fish and fern root. The old man appeared glad to see us, and gave us an invitation to go and see him at his place, which we think of doing after the Karere arrives. He talked at a great rate, and said he would wait and accompany us. The noise of the women in the Pa every evening quite unbearable, hakaing and dancing, like so many infernals; they require much renovating even in a temporal point of view, their shrieks and yells are truly dismal.

Appearance of a Gale from the East.

Wednesday, 6. Much rain through the night but the wind died away. Stewed snipe and tea for breakfast. Several strangers through the day. Pango arrived from Rotorua. He came and paid his respects. He appeared quite in another character from what he was when amongst the Ngapuhi. Then he was in fear for his head, tho a visitor amongst them, but here he felt himself at home. He jumped about like a kitten and spoke of our remaining with him. In the evening we had a good assemblage.

Thursday, 7. Wind N.E. Appearance of a Gale. News that 400

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men had departed to lay wait for the Nateawa. We enquired into the truth of this account, which being confirmed, we sent for some of the leading men, to whom we observed that we must leave them as soon as the weather should clear up, as they appeared determined to follow their own inclinations. This led to much conversation, and a visit from all the officers of State. There was also a second counsel in the Pa, to which I was introduced. Some urged the necessity of having one or two days good fighting as a kind of finishing stroke, and settling of all differences. Can there be any reasoning more Satanic? I told them that if there should be any fighting on the part of these people while we were amongst them, we should leave them immediately. They promised there should be none, and strongly urged the necessity of our remaining until Titore should return. Poor creatures, they are as kind as they are capable, but in a sad state of ignorance and superstition, living in a careless filthy state scarcely out of gunshot of their enemy.

Friday, 8. Heavy rain through the night. Tormented with fleas. At daylight wind shifted to the westward; appearance of fine weather. A party of Nateawa shewed themselves to invite a skirmish with these people, which was soon accepted. They crossed the river, but each observed a respectful distance. They fired a few shots and retired to their respective places. While observing their movements I learnt that when Warepapa¹⁸ a chief of Ngapuhi was killed in a late engagement here, that Titore's wife took a rope and gave it to his widow and told her to go and hang herself, which she accordingly did; retiring unattended to a Wahitapu among some bushes, she was found a few hours afterwards quite dead. These circumstances were not uncommon some years since, but lately of rare occurrence, and would not in all probability have taken place in this instance, but as a display of courage before the natives of Rotorua. It was a practice formerly to kill some slaves on the death of a chief, but this has gradually ceased in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands and Hokianga. A good deal of uneasiness expressed on account of the Karere not making her appearance from Tauranga. Apprehensive that the Nateawa had detained her. Began to be weary of our protracted stay without even commencing negotiations. Threw out some hints that we should go to the Tumu, but were told not as the establishment of peace depended upon us.

Saturday, 9. Fine morning. More fleas through the night notwithstanding all precautions. Night unusually cold. Went to see Waihihi, a river a short distance to the Southd. Too shallow for

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small vessels, but important for boats, &c. Ground in the neighbourhood fair for cultivation, and flax swamp extending many miles to the Southd. On our return were much relieved by the sight of the Karere coming out of Tauranga. As the tide did not answer till 9 o'clock we did not venture to bring her in. The bar was smooth.

Sunday, 10. Fine morning. Pulled out in the two boats to tow in our little vessel. When on the bar several rollers tossed up their heads, but she came in without striking. Took her to an anchorage, where she lay very comfortably, tho in a small space as the river is full of banks and shoals. At 10 o'clock assembled the natives to service; more attentive than last Sunday. Spoke of the invitations of the Gospel, and compared their state with that of believers. Felt thankful in being able to speak to these people of the things which relate to their eternal peace. Conversation afterwards upon the present position of affairs, the unhappy consequences of war, involving them in perpetual confusion, and restraining them from hearing and receiving the truths of the Gospel of Jesus Christ.

Monday, 11. Fine. Natives as usual in close attendance and in general conversation most part of the day. In the afternoon several idle youths crossed over to Nateawa to offer them battle, a few shots exchanged. Towards sunset the parties increased, when one person was brought back dead. Immediately all was confusion and noise, firing guns wailing and howling in a horrid degree. This last part belonged to the women, who arranged themselves before the corpse, throwing themselves into every attitude, and filling the air with their lamentations, cutting themselves until the blood gushed out, besmearing their faces and arms, a hideous form; and she was deemed the most effectual performer, who exhibited the largest web of snivel and filth issuing from the nose and hanging pendant from each finger end. The frantic widow sat in grief upon the body of her husband, a most distressing spectacle, tossing her head and arms around her like one deranged. The Chiefs retired to their respective places apparently much chagrined that we should witness their folly, knowing that we should be highly displeased at their proceedings. What a state of wretchedness and woe, without God and without hope. What hath sin wrought that thus the hand of each should be lifted up against his fellow.

As the natives had not acted in conformity to their declaration to us on our arrival, to remain quiet until the Chiefs should assemble, we felt it needful to say that we should retire as early as possible. None from the Pa came near us, neither was there any noise through the night.

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Tuesday, 12. Several of the Chiefs came to know if we were going and with much evident feeling to prevail on our remaining a little longer, that if we left them there would be no hopes of effecting a reconciliation between the parties. We did not give a definite answer, wishing to see Karere off the first opportunity. Numbers of natives hanging about all day, keeping us in conversation.

Wednesday, 13. Fine. The bar very smooth, made every preparation for towing our little vessel out, which we effected comfortably with the two boats at the top of high water, by renewing the ballast in the boats, and delivering it again when out of difficulties; felt very thankful we were thus nearer our departure. Returned on shore and prepared for our departure, which we must endeavour to accomplish this evening, if possible. Passed through the Pa, and saw the widow of the man killed on Monday; she was still sitting by the corpse keeping off the flies and has continued her station night and day, her face and arms still smeared over with blood and filth, a prisoner of Satan, held fast bound in chains of superstition and darkness. Returned to the camp and put things in order to move at the rising of the moon as the wind is off shore during the night. The people thronged around and the Chiefs showed that they did not approve our decision. They pointed to some fires on the road, and said they wished us to remain until we heard from the party in the bush, as nothing could be done unless they were here. We concluded to remain a little longer. Number of natives in close conversation till very late.

Thursday, 14. Cloudy. We determined to wait one more day. After breakfast heard the firing of musketry beyond the Tumu, when the natives immediately prepared themselves for action and crossed over with all despatch to attack this side of the Pa, under the idea that their allies were assaulting the opposite part. They appeared perfectly to disregard anything we had to say, and left but a few old women and children behind. They expressed their confidence that the Pa of the enemy would be taken today. The sea breeze by this time had set in, otherwise we should have taken our departure. Titore's vessel in sight, who will conclude whether it is to be peace or war. The natives as they landed on the opposite side of the river assembled round their Priests who stood in the water while they went through their religious ceremony, sprinkling them occasionally with water, at the conclusion of which they caught up a handful of sand and throwing it into the river ran off with speed toward the enemy. There was a degree of admiration mixed with pity, while witnessing all this. How much more faithful are these

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deluded Soldiers of Satan to their Sovereign Lord and King in all observances required of them, than those who bear the name and are sworn to obey the King of Kings and Lord of Lords, who are for the most part ashamed of that holy name by which they are called, and do but dishonour Him in all their acts.

As these mad headed creatures approached the Pa, we perceived that they slackened their pace very materially, and that most of them sat down very contentedly under cover of a small hill, but few seemed disposed to turn out to be fired at. After about two hours they returned bringing two wounded, none killed. The firing continued beyond the Pa, supposed to be from the other party of these natives. The proceedings of the morning gave subject for numberless tongues of men and women to exercise their varied notes, as all claimed the privilege of indulging the assembled multitudes, relating the hairbreadth escapes these warriors had undergone in this brave transaction! “The King of France with forty thousand men, marched up the hill and then came down again.”

At 2.30 a party of the Troops which had been against the Tumu came in their wild and naked state, exclaiming that Tupaea¹⁹ a chief of Nateawa and twenty of his people were killed and their bodies taken, upon which all the women set up a dance and screaming, tossing up their heads and hands presenting a most infernal picture. It were impossible not to grieve and mourn for their sad and wretched condition. Some loss on this side. We were a little relieved to learn in a short time that the bodies of Nateawa were not brought away. After a little quietness was obtained we heard that the two men who were killed belonging to these tribes were left behind and consequently will be eaten by the enemy, and moreover that only four of the other party were killed. We may probably find that even this exceeds the truth. Near sunset we witnessed the religious ceremony upon the return of a party which had been out some days to way lay the enemy near one of the Pas. The party assembled naked, every person had a bunch of grass in each hand, the Priest an old greybearded man and of such slight material that a puff of wind would blow him to pieces, stood up in front with outstretched arms, holding three blades of long grass in each of his hands, and repeated over his karakia, or prayer, to Tu, the God of War. At the conclusion of the old mans service, the party delivered one bunch of the grass to him; they then all stood up and chanted a few words, clapping their hands at the same time, after which they ran down to the river, and wetting the second

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bunch of grass ran back and returned it to the Priest. I could not understand a word of the ceremony, nor was I able to prevail upon any to give it me. We were a good deal cast down by the proceedings of the day. Every appearance of a Gale; prepared accordingly.

Friday, 15. A most severe night. Wind and rain. Unable to sleep from the thoughts of this deluded people, from the effect of the rain, which found its way to my bed, and from the torment of the flies, which appeared to have sought refuge within, from the violence of the weather without.

At daylight wind had shifted to the westd. and the sun made its appearance. About 8 o'clock a number of the Nateawa came down on the opposite side of the river²⁰, discharged their pieces, and began to haka to signify that they had just concluded their repast upon the two men taken yesterday. They soon retired when these people began to move toward them. The natives have now no observations to make to us; they keep aloof; they are flushed with expectation as to what Titore and the Rarawa will do. When will they know their real friends, and bow with submission to their God and Saviour; but the Lord will be exalted amongst the heathen, He will be exalted in the earth; to Him we must leave the decision of the present contest which was commenced and fostered through the folly of our Countrymen. We must now bend our course homewards. We must retire, but do not retreat. Satan fights us hard being enraged lest these his slaves should become the children of the living God. The people now involved in the war are those whom we have long desired to take under our more immediate care by placing Missionaries amongst them.

In the afternoon I heard that Te Amahau²¹ the father of the man shot on Monday, after he had concluded his crying over the corpse, addressed himself generally and said that as he had now lost a child in the war, it was for him to deliver his sentiments and that he should proceed with the Missionaries and make peace. He desired no satisfaction on account of his child, but that these proceedings might be stayed. We went to the Pa to learn the state of feeling, but most were asleep. A few were disposed for conversation, but nothing particularly to the purpose. At length we heard that Te Amahau was enquiring for us. When we met him he spoke of our going to the Tumu, for the purpose of consulting upon the propriety of making peace. He had now lost a son and was therefore entitled to speak and proposed to send one of my boys in the morng. with

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a letter to some of the leading men and should they be willing that we should then go round in my boat to Tauranga to meet Titore and the Rarawa. The poor man appeared very earnest in his desires and said he did not want satisfaction on acct. of his son but peace. He afterwards came to us and gave the needful instruction to the boy who was to go in the morning. I also wrote a letter to some of the leading men of Tauranga of his own dictation, and one to a Mr. Scott²² who resides there as flax agent requesting that he would render all the aid in his power. Mr. Tapsel who resides here for the same purpose begins to feel the necessity of the same thing, and I hope will endeavour to keep the people quiet.

Saturday, 16. A comfortable night. As soon as the messengers were despatched a large party of strangers paid us a visit. One poor man was very importunate for a blanket and declared that peace should not be made unless he had one; he came and intruded within the tent and sat upon part of the bed before I was aware of his movements. However as these are difficult times I kept them in good tune and they soon departed. The messenger returned in the afternoon; had met with a good reception. Tupaea the Chief mentioned as having been killed on Thursday was at the Pa and well; only two men were killed on that occasion. The Chiefs of Nateawa expressed themselves well disposed. Pango and others came in the eveng. and seemed more favourably than I had expected; it was determined to send the boys again in the morng.

Sunday, 17. Fine morng. The natives in the Pa very busy consulting their sticks as to the probable result of the present conference, whether peace or war—a great noise. Held our service at the usual time; very few persons besides our boys. At the conclusion our old Priest came and desired to say what his Atua had revealed to him, that there would be shedding of blood. I replied that his Atua was the Author of all mischief, by whom the country had been depopulated, that his own arm had been broken by his Atua, and that Te Aramiti²³ a great Priest and his party, the instigators of this war, had been deceived by their Atua, and thus it was continually the case among them, lamentation and mourning and woe. All present assented to what was said that there was no good thing amongst them. I then warned the old man to flee from the wrath to come and seek to obtain peace with God through Jesus Christ.

After dinner went into the Pa; many disposed to cavil, extolling the power and excellency of their Gods; but were soon brought to

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silence. Others appeared desirous to hear us speak upon these things. The boys returned from the Tumu before sunset, bringing a good report and that they were anxious to see us. Were much encouraged at the conversation of our people, gradually giving way and desiring peace. It is a period of much anxiety and difficulty to do anything with such overgrown self-willed perverse children, where each possesses an opinion independent of the other, and liberty of acting. We should have but little hopes of effecting anything were it not for the promises of the Lords assistance and blessing. In the evening some of the Chiefs came to converse; tried to prevail with them to allow me to go over to the Tumu, which was opposed, as we must remain until the rear comes up. Mr. Tapsel expressed his determination to go over in the morning. The Chiefs were angry with him.

Monday, 18. Comfortable night. Some of the Chiefs came early; they expressed their opinion that peace would be made and urged the necessity of not leaving them to themselves, but that we must return, and that some Missionaries should be here to move continually amongst them to preserve peace, as by these means alone peace had been preserved in the Bay of Islands, and all the region round about. They are truly in the gaul of bitterness and in the bond of iniquity, unable to trust anyone, and consequently living in constant fear.

Tuesday, 19. Fine. News from the Tumu, that the Rarawa had entered Katikati and had attacked a party of men women and children who were residing in a careless and unprotected way. Two old persons were killed, who were unable to make off. We accordingly prepared to depart, our friend Te Amahau unwilling to accompany us, did not press him. As we passed the Tumu, Kiaroa came to the boat; the poor old man seemed glad to see us, and expressed a hope that we might be able to effect a peace. We had an uncomfortable passage to the entrance of Tauranga, as we were obliged to pull nearly the whole way; wind foul and considerable swell, and the boat heavy loaded.

Wednesday, 20. Entered the Harbour about 3 o'clock; found a Brig at anchor, which appeared a good deal alarmed at us, not knowing who we were, or disposed to understand. They threatened to fire at us; however we laid down and took rest till daylight. After breakfast I went on board the Brig, the Sarah, from Port Jackson, Captain Jack, of fame renowned; he was civil. Mr. Scott came down in the afternoon; long conversation upon the affairs of the natives. Made an attempt to pass up the river to the Rarawa. Considerable sea owing to the flood tide, which obliged us to turn

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back. Saw Nuka on board the Sarah; he tried to be angry at our not seeing him sooner; he said many things of an agrivating nature respecting Ngapuhi. How perverse is the heart of man to what is right and what a stranger to that peace joy and consolation possessed by those who know the Lord to be their God and Saviour and whose inheritance is beyond this world.

Thursday, 21. Went up the river in quest of Titore. As we passed along with the flood tide I was much struck with the great expanse of water extending many miles up the country with several level islands of considerable size, all capable of cultivation, and having marks of former fortification; but now in a state of desolation, through the destructive hand of war, and even now the wretched inhabitants, the scattered remnants, are closely besieged. We found the Rarawa nearer than was expected, sitting in a free and easy way, living at the expense of their enemies upon kumara, potatoes, pumkin. As we approached the beach, the troops were turned out to salute us, who divided into two parties, and gave us one of their infernal dances brought from the regions below; however, as it was intended as a compliment, it was needful to receive it as such. I was conducted into the presence of the General Officers, Titore, Papahia, &c., &c., and introduced to Rohu²⁴, a Chief from Natemaru, who had joined them with about 70 men. We reported all the news we possessed, and learnt theirs; had conversation with the different parties, particularly the Natemaru, whom I now met for the first time. They appeared much pleased and surprised that any European should come among them for the purpose of turning them from their ancient custom of killing each other. They related their own sufferings from war, and their strong desire that Missionaries might be amongst them to preserve peace. I replied that this was our desire, but that it was impossible unless it became a general wish. I enquired of Titore what was the proposed movement, and what I was to say to the opposite party to Nateawa. He first told me that they should fight, but after some long private conversation with Papahia, he told me to go to Otumoetai and say that we should meet them at the Tumu and then fight, that as we had come here he should pass by these Pas and go on. As this was one great point gained I told him that would do for that time, but that we would meet him in the morng. and have another contest for peace and general return to our homes. We took our departure and went to Otumoetai. The natives

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assembled on our landing and as they all seemed in anxious expectation of hearing something important I addressed them, and spoke to them upon the object of our coming amongst them to endeavour to stop proceedings, that many had been killed since last we were here. I expressed our desire to see peace established in order that Missionaries might come amongst them. I told them what Titore had said. After which a young Chief arose and said that what I had spoken was not correct, that we had brought the Ngapuhi down, and also potatoes for them in a ship, and that Titore was not true to his word. He continued for some time and called upon others to confirm his statements. I at length replied to him, calling to mind the many services we had rendered to them. The potatoes in question were for the boys in the boats and as for the ship the Ngapuhi had come in, all knew it did not belong to us. He soon turned away much confused; all expressing their approbation of my statements. They appeared rejoiced at the prospect of peace, tho doubtful of the veracity of Titores statement; they said they hoped we should return to Ngapuhi in the morning, and acquaint them with the result of our meeting. I took a view of the Pa and was surprised to observe it so much out of repair, the fence in many places was altogether down.

Friday, 22. A squally, rough night; heavy rain toward morng.; wind suddenly changed about 7 and cleared up. Soon heard the sound of distant musketry, and with our glasses observed the Ngapuhi making an attack on Otumoetai, tho with much caution; the people of the Pa in their trenches not returning their fire. As this was an act contrary to the promise Titore had made to me, we determined not to go near him. Much grieved at the perverseness of their ways. Went up the river to Maungatapu to see Mr. Scott and the Natives. I did not perceive any Chief of note in the Pa and but few men; the fences also very much out of repair, as at Otumoetai. Nuka was very civil and desirous that we should still have communication with the Ngapuhi, but all appeared very indifferent.

Saturday, 23. Morning very fine, not a cloud to be seen, and the wind fair for our return home, but detained by the non-arrival of the old lady who came with us to see Kiaroa, and whom we must not leave behind; despatched two messengers to the Tumu to fetch her. As we were obliged to remain we went up to the camp of the Rarawa, not that we had any hope of effecting anything, but in compliance of the wish of the poor natives of this place. Titore did not immediately appear, in consequence of the firing of yesterday. He said that it was altogether against his will, and that it was merely

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the party going out to forage. As it was in all probability our last visit to them, I called up all my ability to speak to them upon the evils they were bringing upon themselves. If they fought, many must fall, much to lose and nothing to gain. Titore and Papahia listened attentively but expressed their idea that they might be required to fight. Whilst deeply engaged in our council, we observed an instantaneous uproar amongst the natives running in all directions. We soon learnt that a slave belonging to Rohu, a leading person belonging to the Thames, had run over from Otumoetai. He was much alarmed for some time, but as he acquired confidence, he gave a statement of the position of the enemy, in all points agreeable to the desires of the persons among whom he now was. When all the news was obtained which this youth had to communicate, there was a general scuffle for his person, and many of the Chiefs flew upon each other with savage fury, and several were soon rolling in the dust; others caught up their guns, while Titore and others exercised their abilities with unwieldy sticks in driving all before them. After some time order was in a degree restored, when all turned out to Haka. We took our leave at this period, glad to retire from so grievious a scene, and with many downcast feelings proceeded to Otumoetai. We did not remain long after relating to them the state of feeling among the Rarawa, and returned to our encampment by dusk. We learnt from our boys that as we were retiring, Titore and Papahia called back one of them to say that they could not tell us to remain longer with them, for they could not control their people, but they would endeavour to move on Monday morning, in which case we should all proceed to Maketu. This in some measure cheered our spirits. We thought we discerned a ray of hope.

Sunday, 24. Fine morng. Went to Maungatapu. On landing we observed the Europeans busily engaged in pressing flax and sending it on board the Brig. Numbers of natives occupied with them. What an example to these poor creatures; but few Europeans among them, and they publicly shewing their entire disregard to the sacred day of the Most High. We assembled the people of the Pa and spoke to them of eternal things, tho my heart was much cast down at the dreadful state of things in every point of view. Closely beset on all sides. About 300 of the enemy amongst the woods in the rear, and the Rarawa but a short distance in front, and not more than 150 men in the Pa and they in a most careless state. Gave a few words to Nuka and returned to our quarters.

Monday, 25. A sleepless night under the expectation of the Rarawa pulling out for Maketu, when we were to join them. The

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morng. cloudy. No appearance of our friends, whom we particularly wished to see. At 8 heard musketry in the old quarter at Otumoetai and observed the Rarawa in their favourite corner with their usual caution, evidencing extreme disrelish to partake of the indigestible provision of Nateawa. After some considerable time they retired from the field. The clouds moving from the N.W. we did not attempt to move homewards. The namus so very troublesome we could scarcely keep clear of them tho slaying them by thousands. In the afternoon the Rarawa returned to their corner near the Pa, and kept up their firing till sunset. Sometimes they appeared to be in close action. The Nateawa reserving their fire and sallying out occasionally. Sent the boat to Otumoetai to learn particulars. 2 men and one woman killed belonging to the Pa and some wounded. Of the Rarawa 3 men killed, two of whom were taken into the Pa and consequently will be devoured. Titore a good deal vexed at the result of this days work, and declared to our boys that the people would not listen to him. Every appearance of a gale from the Northd.; prepared accordingly.

Tuesday, 26. A quiet night. At daylight calm but cloudy, afraid to move out. No stir amongst the natives, all quiet. At 5 p.m. light airs from the N.E.; left the harbour on our way home, in all seventeen including Hamu our old lady who accompanied us from the Bay, besides a dog and two kittens. Our boat was very full. We pulled to Karewa, a small island 8 miles from Tauranga. Some of the boys landed here to look for birds and potatoes. Upon the island are Ruatara²⁵, a species of the lizard about a foot in length, which are regarded by the natives as Atua. Strict orders given not to disturb them in their holes lest we should be upset. About 8 o'clock a light air from Southd.; got underweigh and stood on our course.

Wednesday, 27. Light airs from the Southd. About 2 o'clock a large fish struck the boat which much startled the boys. Weather came on very thick suddenly between 3 and 4. Lost sight of Mr. Chapman which gave us much uneasiness as he had not a compass. Shortened sail and the boys exerted their lungs to let them know where we were, but no answer. At daylight black threatening clouds around, the land seen in places through the haze; observed Mr. Chapman long distance astern. The breeze gradually increased and by 8 o'clock we were close to the head land of this deep bay, where we regarded ourselves as it were at home, as being able to put

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ashore at any time. At 10 abreast of Wangamata, and at 1 p.m. we landed at Wakahau. Proceeded immediately to pitch our tents, as the Gale was fast breaking upon us. Mr. Chapman landed in less than an hour. We were scarcely snug when the rain began to fall violently, but we were in good quarters and the boats hauled well up and everything in its place, and plenty of fires burning. We felt thankful to our Heavenly Father for this an other instance of His protecting care respecting us.

Thursday, 28. A most forbidding night, the tent shook violently from the gale and the rain continued without intermission until long past sunrise. I was notwithstanding enabled to sleep as comfortably as on any night since being out. Tho the sea was very tempestuous, the water in our little bay was perfectly smooth. the boys enjoyed themselves very much, catching eels and shellfish in great abundance. We had a dish of eels for supper, stewed in the first stile by Mr. Chapman, nothing could exceed their flavour, or the abilities of our caterer. Notwithstanding our Gipsy like mode of life for these many weeks past we have had fresh baked bread, puddings baked and boiled—peach, plum and gooseberry—tea, coffee and chocolate; ducks, snipe and pigeons; fish of various kinds, with oysters and cockles; this with a glass of wine, port or sherry as circumstances required and much fatigue enabled us to enjoy our rest at night and to discharge our duties by day. At sunset dark heavy clouds hanging upon the hills opposite to us. Light airs from the Southd.

Friday, 29. Clouds clearing away; breeze still as last eveng.; launched the boats, packed up our baggage, took breakfast, and were soon underweigh. Considerable swell from the late Gale, but passed comfortably along with the breeze. At 3 p.m. fine; put into a small bay to cook some food for the boys and proceeded on our voyage. Wished if possible to double Cape Colvel as we should then be in a fair way to cross the Thames or run up as circumstances might admit. The moon in her first quarter, which would materially assist us on our way, as we could proceed night and day. As we drew near Port Charles the swell was very considerable and the boys tired. We determined to put in till morning; with care we found our way in, and obtained a quiet place, where we came to anchor but did not like to venture on shore in the dark. We lay down in the boat under cover of a great hill. Mr. Chapman not in sight.

Saturday, 30. The night very clear and cold; should have been glad of a cup of tea. The Parrots making a great noise in the trees close to us, but we slept well till daylight. Could not observe anyone on shore. Put out in quest of Mr. Chapman as we had not

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heard anything of him and passed round to Tangiaro, a fine little bay, perfectly smooth. No signs of the boat; took breakfast. About 10 Mr. Chapman pulled round. We had been near each other all night, but concealed by the darkness, and shade of the land. At 2 calm. Endeavoured to pass to Omaha but as the tide so strong and fearing the sea which might thereby be raised, we determined to alter our course and go up to Haurake and pass across from thence. About 10 we landed on one of the numerous islands where the water was perfectly smooth, kindled a large fire and had supper under an overhanging cliff; a pleasing change from the beat. We formed our bed of the stones and soon fell asleep.

Sunday, 31. Slept comfortably. Daylight shewed us more particularly our position. The island was a shapeless mass of detached fragments of rock, which had once been in a fluid state. Blocks of granite of various dimensions hung suspended to the ceiling by a very small portion, which struck us with wonder how that such considerable weights were kept from falling. After we had breakfasted and held prayers with the natives we pulled up with the flood tide to the place we had wanted to have landed at last night. We saw many fires, but as we approached we observed the people fled with all expedition, and it was not till they discovered that we were in boats and not canoes that some ventured to come near us. When they were convinced that we belonged to the mission they came forth with evident pleasure and began immediately to provide food. They had been apprehensive that we formed part of an expedition of which they had received notice, was quartered at Aotea, under Marupo, directed against them. They treated us kindly. The children appeared very interesting; we should have been glad to have taken them with us. The people here wished us to proceed further up the river. We consequently passed on to Waiau, Koromandel Harbour, several of the Chiefs going with us. The natives as we approached greatly alarmed and fled, but returned as soon as they heard the voice of their friends. This Harbour has the appearance of a large lake, and presents a most beautiful and picturesque scene. We held a long conversation with these people. They were much delighted to find a European capable of speaking to them, and rejoiced at our desire for Missionaries to come in this neighbourhood. In the evening we held karakia, and delivered our message in the name of the Lord.

We observed a poor fellow sitting among them who had received a dreadful wound at the back of his neck which must nearly have severed his head from his body. He was one of a party at Ahuahu, amongst the Mercury islands, when Te aramiti scoured the place.

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He was left for dead, but towards evening finding himself yet alive he crept amongst some rushes, and afterwards constructed a canoe of raupo, and crossed over to the main. The wound was about 9 inches and must have been inflicted with a Billhook, by which the spine was preserved. It is distressing to see the state in which these people live, they are in perpetual dread of an enemy and yet themselves always ready to take advantage of others; ever at war with Tauranga, Waikato, and until very recently, with Ngapuhi. Had a late supper and retired to rest.

Monday, 1 April. Much refreshed by a sound sleep upon my bed. Sleeping in the boat or upon stones by no means desirable. Our friends talking nearly all night. At break of day after breakfast some of the leading men entered our boats and we passed on to the Southd. to another place, as several were particularly desirous that we should have some conversation with Kawero a Chief of note for his bad qualities; he appeared the Savage, a full quick suspicious eye. Our friends introduced us to him, told him we were Missionaries and that one of our objects was to induce all to live quietly and in peace, and that he must attend to what we had to say. He pleaded the necessity of the case. I prevailed with him to let a Son of his accompany me to the Bay. A general crying took place previous to his departure and many injunctions not to deliver him up to Ngapuhi to be killed. We took our departure under a salute of many guns, and passed over to the large island called Waiheke, much pleased with our visit hitherto. The large island which stands in the middle of the Thames appears to possess many advantages, as it is nearly encircled with smaller ones, forming various anchorages well protected from wind and sea. The island is well covered with timber, besides a considerable quantity of land for cultivation, tho very hilly, and fine streams of water. We landed at the Western end at sunset and dined. A valuable spot did these people enjoy peace, as from the observations we could make we should consider this to be a favourite fishing place. We proceeded on by the light of the moon which had now grown large and anchored our boats between Rangitoto and Motutapu, We lay down in the boats, not wishing to land, but the fleas were intolerable owing to the boys laying so close to me.

Tuesday, 2. Fine night. At 2 a.m. we proceeded on our voyage as the tide had sufficiently flowed for us to pass between the islands. As we drew near to Maurangi we had to contend with considerable sea owing to the tide. To a person not experienced in boat sailing I consider this place dangerous, as from the strength of the tide a sea may be tossed up in a few minutes which would require great

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care and prudence to pass through. As we approached the entrance of the river, we observed Mr. Fairburn in our settlement boat coming towards us from a small river to the left. We were happy to learn that he with Mr. Shepherd were on a visit here. We were thereby enabled to receive news from home of the welfare of our families and felt thankful to the Father of all mercies for His unspeakable care. Much refreshed after a good breakfast and a little putting to rights. Conversed with several natives here and some principal Chiefs, Rauroha²⁶ and Kupenga²⁷; they appeared much gratified at the prospect of any Missionaries coming into the neighbourhood. Great abundance of shark taken here in the season of a small kind, which forms an important article of food.

Wednesday, 3. The night very cold and fine; wind had shifted and become fair for both parties. Messrs. Shepherd and Fairburn took their departure for the Southd. and we for the Northd.; called in at Maurangi to see Mr. G. Brown who had commenced an establishment for timber &c. Ship Nancy here. Cap. Dacre kindly offered any assistance we might stand in need of, but we had so husbanded our store of etceteras that we did not require any replenishing. Patuone hindered us for a long time in crying with Hamu our old lady who was a near relative of his. We went to see them in order to break up the assembly; they presented a shocking spectacle, so besmeared with blood we could not recognise any person. Took our departure about one o'clock, wind S.S.W. and after rough sailing arrived at our favourite little cove at dusk; took dinner and prepared for a continuation of our voyage during the night as the wind was fair, night fine and the moon at full. Was occupied some time in fitting some boards on the boat's quarter to defend from the sea. At 8 we got underweigh and passed comfortably along under close reefed sail. Wind rather strong at times.

Thursday, 4. Fine clear night; fresh breeze occasionally but as we kept close to the land the water was smooth. At 3 we were close to “Te Wara”, high land of Wangari. At daylight close to Tutukaka but the swell so very great did not like to enter. Felt very

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weary, not having been able to take a wink of sleep, as there was no one to whom I could entrust the helm. Gave the boys some fragments of food and pushed on until we rounded Cape Brett about 4 p.m., keeping the boys in close exercise in reefing and making sail as wind varied. With difficulty we doubled the Cape owing to the strength of the wind, and pulled into Maunganui and partook of our first meal for the day. At dusk we again took our seats in the boat, and as we had now arrived at the last stage of our voyage and the wind had subsided, the boys pulled in good stile, and by 11 o'clock I landed on our beach and in a few minutes learned the gratifying intelligence that all were well. It was a season of much gratitude to meet my family, my wife and nine children, all in good health after an absence of nine weeks Bless the Lord oh my soul and all that is within me bless His holy name. Bless the Lord o my soul and forget not all His benefits.

Friday, 5. Good Friday. Cap. Clendons vessel arrived from the Colony with abundance of letters, Public and Private. Felt too weary from being so long in the boat that I could not sleep. Divine Service held in the morning.

Saturday, 6. Tohitapu came to pay his respects, and to hear the news to the Southd. He had much to say as to what he had learnt at the Shipping, relative to the intention of the Missionaries to take the land, and make slaves of the Chiefs, and that we were to receive a number of dollars for each person who became a believer. Tupe our old friend from Wangaroa arrived in his Canoe with whom I had some interesting conversation. Heard with considerable regret of the ill behaviour of Heke to Dr. Ross, as since his return from Tauranga he had been very attentive to instruction, and appeared a reformed character.

Sunday, 7. Fine. Two canoes came over from Kororarika full of people to attend service; the Chapel overflowing. In the afternoon a native was brought over from the Wahapu with his head laid open to the skull by a blow from a stick, given by an American who was in all probability intoxicated; it appeared to affect the poor fellow in a very trifling degree, tho it would in all probability have deprived a European of his senses. Passed over to Kororarika under the impression of finding a considerable degree of opposition, but on the contrary all were very kind. Saw many of the nobility with whom I had long conversation.

Monday, 8. Fine. At school in the morng. Kauwiti and party came to learn the news, and occupied me nearly all day.

Tuesday & Wednesday, 9, 10. Assembled in Committee to conclude the business of last Quarterly Meeting, and to discuss some important questions relative to the children.

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Thursday, 11. Mr. Wilson²⁸ and family arrived from Sydney; no particular news.

Sunday, 14. In the afternoon an express came from Cap. Clendon that a party of natives were there which threatened to strip him. Went up to his place with the boys but was too late as the business had been concluded some time, and the people clear off with a considerable number of things; the reason was not known. I passed on to the party which was a short distance up the river, but could not recover anything from them; they told me that they had been very lenient in not stripping the place altogether. The excuse assigned was that Mr. Stephenson²⁹ had observed that a certain iron pot which Kauwiti had been looking at a few days before, would make him a very good hat. This expression is regarded by these natives as a Kanga, or equal to a threat to his being cooked in an iron pot. I sent a messenger up the river to ask Hiamoe and Kauwiti to come down to see what could be done in this affair.

Monday, 15. Attended the English boy's school. In the afternoon went over to Kororarika to see the natives; the conversation chiefly upon the state of things to the Southd. Messenger returned from Hiamoe, he and Kauwiti had come down to Otuihu, where they would wait a call from us.

Tuesday, 16. Went up the river to Kauwiti; the old man very obstinate and could do nothing with him.

Wednesday, 17. Went to Waitangi to see Dr. Ross. A messenger over from Mr. Mair, with the intelligence that a number of Europeans and natives were in the act of pulling down the house on the Island³⁰, and to request that some one would go over, as it was not known how far these men might be disposed to act as they were intoxicated. Went across but the house in question was down

Thursday, 18. Captain Powditch came over to consult upon the affairs of yesterday. The alarm given that Mr. Mair's premises were on fire at the Wahapu. We spoke to Poyner &c., &c., upon the folly of their conduct. Great confusion. Numbers of natives about ready to take advantage of the passing scene. Dr. and Mrs. Ross came over and took up their abode for a few days with us.

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Friday, 19. Went over to Tepuna to see Warepoaka respecting some strange natives who had been brought from the East Cape against their will by Cap. Black of the Elizabeth, English Whaler, and turned over to him as their slaves.³¹

Saturday, 20. Comparatively a quiet day. No particular interruption, beyond a call from Mr. Polack³² a settler who came with a party of natives, being in treaty with them for some land and in need of a little interpretation.

Sunday, 21. After service went over to Kororarika; between 70 and 80 in attendance; a considerable number in the place. After we had concluded our service, one of the chiefs desired to know the meaning of the intelligence communicated to them by Tami and Cap. Boulger of our receiving dollars for every tangata wakapono (believer). I referred him to them as it was equally new to us as to himself. It appears that Satan through the means of these his agents has been very industriously circulating the idea of our intention to seize the Chiefs in a short time, and have them conveyed to England, and that for those who receive our instruction we are to receive dollars according to the rank of the individual. Passed on to Tarea, Rewa, Tohitapu, &c., &c.; all very civil, but spoke upon the subject of the dollars and enquired how many we had received on account of Ripi and Temorenga.

Monday, 22. Went to Kerikeri to attend a special committee. Active ordered to proceed to the East Cape to convey the natives brought up by Captain Black. My brother and some one else to take charge of them. Mr. Wilson to be held as a disposable member for the Southd. Returned home by dusk.

Tuesday, 23. Fine. Met those natives in the eveng. disposed for more particular instruction.

Thursday, 25. Rain all day. Met our natives in the evening.

Friday, 26. Rain all day. Met the Communicants in the eveng. for examination; in a pleasing frame of mind.

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Saturday, 27. Thick fog. Could not go to Waimate owing to the wet. In the afternoon I buried a European who was drowned last evening while in a state of intoxication. Addressed a few words at the grave to those who brought him over, but I fear they were but idle words. Yet we have this assurance that “the word of God is quick and powerful, and sharper than any two edged sword, piercing even to the dividing asunder of soul and spirit, and of the joints and marrow, and is a discerner of the thoughts and intents of the heart”. Felt great regret that I could not in the utmost stretch of charity read the whole of that beautiful service over our departed brother sinner.

Sunday, 28. This morng. administered the Sacrament to the natives; but five communicants. After dinner went to Kororarika, about 40 in attendance; numbers of Europeans on the beach, indulging themselves in the grog shops which are now becoming general. Flags of various colours displayed, bidding welcome to all who would enter therein; the natives referred to them as the ware karakia of Satan, where his followers assembled to do him honour. Passed through the Pa, a scene of confusion, but did not observe any drunken men.

Monday, 29. Fine. The Active sailed with my brother and Mr. Hamlin for Rangihoua in order to receive the natives whom they were to convey to the East Cape, belonging to Na te Poro.

Tuesday, 30. Fine. Marupo arrived from the southd. with several canoes. We were much relieved on hearing that he had not been engaged in any mischief in the Thames, as we had apprehended; he had not been beyond Wangari; the party was very quiet. Considerable stir amongst the natives, and particularly amongst the Urikapana, in consequence of the illness of Temorenga. They intimate that should he die we shall meet with a general upset. This does not disturb our peace tho we have no doubt that many would embrace with delight such a pretext if they were confident of support. Ripeka, a young girl who has been with us for these seven years past, and was baptised about two years since, went away this morning against all remonstrance because her friends would not allow of her marriage with one of my boys. Alas, alas, alas! This is painful, but she is in the Lord's hand, who will do with her as seemeth good in His sight. The Active sailed this evening for the East Cape, after long detention.

Thursday, 2 May. At breakfast Mr. Brown came with the unpleasant news that a messenger had arrived from Hokianga, bringing the intelligence that Cap. Clendon's vessel had been plundered

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to a considerable amount. At 10 I took my departure for the Waimate; the road much improved. Slept at Puketona to refresh the horse, and offered a few words to the natives there. Arrived at the Waimate about tea time; all well. All much concerned at the news from Hokianga.

Friday, 3. Wind East. Heavy rain nearly all day.

Saturday, 4. In the course of the night the wind shifted to N.W. and rain ceased. After breakfast Messrs. Clarke and Davis and I rode to Taiamai to see Te Morenga. Found him far better than was expected; nothing serious in his case. Took a survey of the land in the neighbourhood of Pouerua; good, but very stony; ascended the hill, from which we had a very extensive view. The hill has formerly been a volcano. The crater appears entire and the bottom we could not discover. It is more than a quarter of a mile in diameter at the mouth and the sides of the interior are covered with trees of various sizes. Our time would not admit of our descending; this we reserved for a future day. The hill appears composed of loose portions of Iava, with very rich earth to the summit. Arr'd at the settlement by sunset. Cap. Clendon had passed through about 2 hours confirming the account of the plundering of his vessel and that the natives had fought, when 10 were killed on one side and 11 on the other. The natives wish that the Ngapuhi would sit quietly and not interfere in the affair. These are distressing circumstances. All appears in state of great agitation, and everyone expecting some great convulsion to take place. The voice of many is lifted up for war, but as yet tranquility is preserved.

Sunday, 5. Dark cloudy weather. After an early dinner I rode to Maunga Kauakaua; stopt at two places where were small assemblies of men, women and children. Passed on to see old Hihi, but as it began to rain were obliged to make haste back. Held service at 6 o'clock.

Monday, 6. Heavy gale all night from S E. with usual rain. At 11 a.m. my boy Matiu arr'd from Paihia, with news of the arrival of the Consul³³ in a man of war yesterday afternoon. No letters

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from England or the Colony. Rain continued heavy. Determined not to move.

Tuesday, 7. The Gale continued through the night with torrents of rain; obliged to remain quiet. This is the first heavy rain this season and will create a high flood in all the low lands which will cause much damage to the crops of corn and potatoes not yet gathered in. At noon the heavy dark clouds began to disperse and the sun shone forth to revive the face of nature, but as the rivers were greatly swollen I could not proceed home.

Wednesday, 8. At 9 Messrs. Puckey and Matthews and self left in the midst of rain for the Kerikeri where we arrived about noon, not very wet. Mr. Chapman accompanied me down to Paihia; all well. Mr. Busby on shore in the morning. About 11 o'clock my brother and Mr. Hamlin from the Active, having put back in consequence of the severe weather experienced outside; they were enabled to reach within a few miles of the spot where they wished to go, but were obliged to bear up for the Bay, having split several of their sails.

Thursday, 9. Rain. Mr. Chapman and I went on board, all very polite; remained on board until 7 o'clock, answering multitudes of question. Much pleased with Cap. Blackwood and Mr. Busby. Rain all day.

Friday, 10. Weather more promising. In the afternoon Cap. B., Mr. Busby and Dr. Hausley, came on shore, disposed to see every body and every thing. Conducted our guests to the Infant and Native girls schools. An invitation to dinner for tomorrow.

Saturday, 11. Cloudy. Mr. Busby came on shore. Cap. Clendon and Dr. Ross called; occupied with them till near sunset. Heard that there had been more fighting at Hokianga, but on the arrival of our messenger to call the chiefs to assemble here, peace was made and all proposed to come over and hear what King William had to say to them. My brother, Mr. Brown and Mr. Wilson, went on board; was glad to remain behind and be quiet.

Sunday, 12. Wind continues from the Eastd.; cloudy; prospect of a Gale. Captain Blackwood arr'd by 8.30 with about fifteen of his officers. The Chapel very full, our visitors appeared much pleased with all they saw and heard. Mr. Busby remained until the eveng. and returned on board. None of the Europeans were able to move out owing to the weather.

Monday, 13. A gale with heavy rain; our projected expedition to Waimate, with Cap. Blackwood &c., &c., at an end, which was a considerable relief to me. Cleared my study for the reception of Mr. Busby, being the only apartment in the settlement which can

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