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The Pamphlet Collection of Sir Robert Stout: Volume 68

Zealandia's Fair

page 39

Zealandia's Fair

I Am desirous of providing in this page, month by month, designs of suitable clothing for the women of our new country. If I save any of my busy sisters indue worry over this matter, I shall be well repaid. I intend planning out, in detail, a gown or costume in each number of Zealandia, with the addition of a few other useful novelties. I have every opportunity of knowing the newest and most useful in female attire, and shall use my knowledge in your service.

I have designed for this number a Directoire walking costume. This costume is in the style of the latest English designs, and is very elegant and becoming, giving the wearer quite an old-world air. It would look very hand-some made in one of the smooth-faced cloths so much worn this season. Vicuna is a capital material both in appearance and in wear; a good serge would also be nice. There are many varieties of colour to choose from—green, brown, blue, or red would all make up well. A good shade of dark green, braided with black—a fashionable combination this winter—and a handsome green moire silk for the sash would look very distingue. Arrange the front and sides of the skirt with three handsomely braided panels, slightly draped at the top; between these put pleatings of the material, widening at the feet. Braided pieces are sold ready for use in this kind of work, and save much time and trouble: or a handsome gimp would be pretty, but the braiding is preferable. Make the back drapery quite straight, pleated into the waist; over this drapery place a wide sash of moire silk, arranged in two loops and ends.

The bodice I think I have made very attractive. It is to be cut away in front to show a handsomely-braided waistcoat matching the skirt panels in design, and furnished with a wide roll-back collar, under which put two small capes, reaching in front no further than the revers. These can be put on with books and eyes under the collar, and can be worn or not at discretion. Beneath the points of the collar, on either side of the bodice, put three large fancy pearl buttons. Place a large pocket on each hip, and furnish the neck with a high, braided collar, under which, at the throat, wear a jabot of lace. The sleeve should be cut coat-shape, and finished with a small cuff, either braided, or, if preferred, of moire to match the sash.

With this costume one of the Directoire hats would look very stylish and suitable. The wide brim should be lined with moire silk the same shade as the sash, and the crown trimmed with a profusion of handsome feathers, either green or black, and a few loops of green ribbon. In this hat a large buckle of antique design would look lovely, if any of my readers are fortnnate enough to possess one. A muff also can be made to match the costume. The centre of it could be of puffed moire silk to match, with a band of black for on one side (black fox is very becoming and handsome); on the other side arrange some loops of green ribbon pointing upwards, and with long ends. I am quite sure that any one who worked out this costume would be fully content with it, and feel themselves to be well dressed—a feeling absolutely essential to the comfort and well-being of womankind; for if we do not feel well-dressed we are nervous, and nervousness is injurious to the well-being of any and every woman.