Assumption of Christian Natives.

Iwikau, his brother, who is generally averse to Europeans, and much feared, by Natives from his bold, determined character, was exceedingly friendly to both Mr. Taylor and myself; to the former gentleman he felt indebted for kindness shown him when at Whanganui, and said he would be glad to see him oftener at Taupo, when he would think of becoming a "Missionary" if it were not for the haughty bearing of some of the Mission Natives, who considered their religion placed them higher in rank than himself, which was a feeling he could not endure. Mr. Taylor told him that it was expected from all Christian Natives to behave with respect to their chiefs, and that he would lose nothing of his rank by becoming one. Iwikau seemed pleased at this, and here I could perceive the benefits that would result from the more frequent visits of such persons as Mr. Taylor. He also expressed himself grateful for my interference in the affair between him and the trader mentioned in my report of the 11th July, 1845, and said, had it not been settled, he was determined to have taken payment from some other white man, or have tried the strength of the English, as Heke was doing; but its being arranged satisfactorily, and his own life probably saved by my advising the opposite party to lay aside their, firearms before he arrived at their place, led him to be more friendly to all Europeans.

On the 17th Mr. Taylor performed the marriage service between a European and a Native woman, after which we took our departure from Te Rapa, Heuheu accompanying us across the Lake in his canoe, which afforded me an opportunity of a conversation, when I pointed out to him the benefits likely to be conferred on the Natives of Taupo by having a European settlement at Whanganui, and how much it would be to his interest to urge the tribes over whom he had influence to behave well to them (the settlers), mentioning that Turoa, a chief of Whanganui, before his death strongly recommended peace to all his relatives, reminding them that they all originally came in the same canoe; that he had been a man for war, but he wished that now to die with him. I then explained to him the advantages of peace, and Mr. Taylor pointed out the evil consequences of war. Heuheu replied that a grandson of Turoa had been to see him, but had not said a word about peaceable intentions, and if Turoa had expressed himself to him in the same terms when he had put the question to him twice at Whanganui, peace would long since have been restored as far as he was concerned; but, as regarded the settlers there, whatever might happen in other parts of the Island, he would defend them. He apparently apprehended, a rising against the Natives of the West Coast, and strongly recommended my visiting the chiefs of Rotorua, mentioning their names, and to advise Hikairo, the leading chief of that place, against doing so.

We landed at a large pa to the north of the Rapa, to which Heuheu and his tribe resorted in time of war. He showed us some of his houses, handsomely finished in the Native style, and neatly carved. Here we took our leave of the kind old chief, who urged us to visit him frequently, and appeared to regret our departure, Heuheu having given me the names of the several chiefs, of Rotorua that were disposed to attack Ihupuku, and informed me that the feeling was not confined to them alone, as Taraia and Te Horeta evinced a similar disposition.

Here would take the liberty of observing that there are appearances of excitement amongst the tribes around here, and a desire to return in a great measure to their old habits, when those innumerable feuds and grievances that have lain dormant for years will be revived, the consequences of which might seriously affect our English settlements, and which demand every exertion on the part of those interested in the peace and tranquillity of the Island being used. I therefore determined on seeing as many of the chiefs as I could, and accordingly visited Rotorua with Mr. Taylor. After leaving Heuheu the first place we came to was Waimarino, where we found a body of Church Natives more advanced in religious information than any we had met at Taupo, which arose, no doubt, from their chief being the teacher and zealous in performing his duties. The next pa, Motutere, presented quite a different appearance, the inhabitants being in a perfect state of heathenism, continually begging from ourselves or Natives; but during our short stay we succeeded in shaming them out of such conduct.

On the 18th we came to Orona, a small settlement, where we found some Natives who had separated from those of Motutere, and had built, with the assistance of Mr. Taylor's teacher, a large chapel for themselves. We found them friendly. From thence we continued our journey along the banks of the lake, some parts of which are very beautiful, especially a small village at its northern end, round which we observed several cultivations. In turning off on the road to Rotorua we came to page 129Rotokawa, a picturesque lake about a mile long, the water of which is unfit for use, being strongly impregnated with sulphur. The country after leaving here presented a barren and dreary appearance until we arrived at the Waikato River, where we found a small settlement with twelve Church of England Natives. Takiri, the chief, who terms himself a "Missionary," was more inclined to annoy us by begging than to behave in accordance with the character he had assumed.

A short distance beyond this place the country presented the same barren appearance, nor did we meet with any change until we arrived at Pukaraka, where there is a level road running through some cultivations, and a fine clump of timber. From thence we got to a lake of Rotorua named Motutawa, with a small island in the centre, where a portion of the Ngatipikiao Tribe live. In the evening we arrived at the Rev. T. Chapman's, having visited Tarawera and all the pas that lay on our way to that place. Here we heard of the arrival of His Excellency Captain Grey as Governor of New Zealand. The scenery here is interesting and romantic, but the soil is poor and unproductive. Many vegetables which grow abundantly on a small island in the lake do not here come to perfection. In my interviews with the Natives around here I observed that the majority of them were desirous of relinquishing their warlike habits, and frequently mentioned the chief of Taupo as the grand mover of their actions. They said that some of their people were still restless, and only looking to the result of the northern war to see how far the Europeans could conquer their countrymen.

Accompanied by Mr. Chapman we visited Hikairo, that gentleman having to settle a difference respecting some goods stolen from Kororareka, in the possession of his Native teacher, for which he was suspended from his office for one month. In conversing with Hikairo, I informed him of Heuheu's friendly disposition, at which he seemed much pleased and gratified at his considering him the leading chief of Rotorua. He hoped that old grievances would be forgotten, and their newly-acquired religion only attended to. There were a few in his neighbourhood who, he said, wished for war, and he requested me to see them before we left that part of the country.

25th November.—The severity of the weather induced me to remain at Mr. Chapman's, and I was afforded an opportunity of seeing his Native infant school, with which and the progress the children attending it were making in learning English I was much pleased. There are frequently thirty scholars from four to eight years of age; many of the girls are kept at the Mission-house, where they are taught sewing and other useful employments.