As to Policy of Governor Grey.

On the 26th visited all the pas round Mr. Chapman's station, and had conversations with the Natives, who were under an impression that the new Governor was inclined for war, which, they said, would arouse the jealousy of every tribe in the country, who remained neutral until they saw the result of Heke's proceedings. I found among them some Natives who joined that chief in the Bay of Islands, and who were industriously circulating incorrect versions of the several engagements, and striving to excite the better-inclined against our cause. Having removed the impressions formed against His Excellency, and answered the arguments urged against the Europeans by the disaffected, I was returning to Mr. Chapman's when I fortunately met the chief of Maketu, Pukuatua, whom I found a sensible, well-disposed man. He told me he was instrumental in causing peace with the Tauranga Natives respecting Motuiti, an island on the East Coast that had been in dispute for years; that he wished to see the people of Taupo and the West Coast coming to the same terms, and all the tribes unanimous in keeping peace throughout the whole length and breadth of the land. The sentiments of this chief being so favourable, I wished him to convey them through me, by letter, to the Natives of my district, which he agreed to, a copy of which I enclose.

The next place we came to after leaving Mr. Chapman's was Ohinemutu Pa, the largest at Rotorua, where we stayed the night, and had a conversation with the chiefs there, who expressed themselves similarly to Hikairo and Pukuatua, stating they expected most of the Rotorua Natives would come on a friendly visit to the West Coast during the ensuing harvest. We were very much pleased with the young children we met at this place; most of them could repeat the English alphabet, several English words, and count from one to one hundred with ease. The delight they take in bathing in the warm springs, that are so numerous there, gives them a more cleanly and healthy appearance than at any other place we had visited.

On the 27th we commenced our journey homeward, passing, by several hot springs, and valleys of rich alluvial soil. About 1 o'clock we ascended the Arakari Pa, on the summit of a steep but pretty hill, that commanded an extensive view, giving a favourable impression of the whole district. At this place we met a few Natives of the Ngatituara Tribe. One of the old men there told me that there was a favourable feeling springing up amongst the Natives towards Heke, and a belief that in the next engagement he would be joined by all the Ngapuhi tribes. He had sent messages to all the tribes on the sea-coast to prevent the residing of Europeans amongst them, and that he hoped Rauparaha would declare war against the English.

From the Arakari we came along under the Horohoro range of mountains, which is high and in some parts heavily wooded. At the northern extremity, near our encampment, we ascended the top of the range, but as the sun was then setting we were disappointed in not having the extensive view we anticipated. Here we planted some seeds of the Russian cranberry and bilberry, and descended to our encampment, near a lonely grove, by a small river running through the plain.

Our journey on the 28th was through a plain level country that our guide told us had been seldom traversed by Europeans. In the evening we passed some large rocks that at the distance looked like the remains of a Druidical building. Here the road breaks off to Taupo, Waikato, and Matamata.

Saturday, the 29th, we got to Arohina Pa, where we found some Natives, and remained there during Sunday.

1st December.—Mr. Taylor went to visit Mr. Morgan's Mission-station at Otawhao, whilst I continued [gap — reason: damage] journey direct, which enabled me to spend a day with Ngawaka, the chief of Rangitoto. The road to his place lay through a poor hilly country, covered with low stunted fern, with a few patches of timber, near which there are a few most untidy villages and cultivations occupied by the page 130Ngatiraukawa Tribe, who do not appear to have any chief of consequence amongst them, and are considered less hospitable and friendly to travellers than any of the Waikato tribes that live in their vicinity. In the evening I got to Ngawaka's, a distance of thirty-five miles. This chief, who is very high in hereditary rank among the Waikatos, I found exceedingly kind and communicative, in his conversation evincing a general tone of friendship towards Europeans, and has frequently three or four living with him, supplying them with the best his place can afford without remuneration, and from the circumstances of the persons who thus partake of his hospitality it is not probable that he ever expected any. One of his sons, a fine young lad of thirteen years of age, he promises to send, along with Te Heuheu's son from Taupo, to live with me at Taranaki to learn English. The latter chief's son was on a visit to his place, and both of them came along with us a day's journey.

3rd December.—Mr. Taylor returned from Mr. Morgan's much pleased with his visit and the reception he received, the Natives showing him every mark of respect. I could perceive a great desire on the part of the Natives here to become owners of horses, and those who have already got them are, with Mr. Morgan's assistance, improving the roads through the interior very much by placing bridges across the deep creeks and streams, also cutting lines through the fern and bush.

On the 4th we came to Te Paripari (Taonui's place), where we pitched our tents and had a long conversation with that chief. He told us that a report had reached him that Taiaroa, the chief of the Southern Island, was desirous of becoming an imitator of Hone Heke; that Rauparaha had consented to join him, and intended making Wellington the first place of attack: but he assured us if this was true, which he himself doubted, that neither he nor Heuheu will join him in such attempt; that he would rather assist the Europeans, and, should Heke attempt to carry his threats into execution of cutting down the Auckland flagstaff, the Waikatos would turn out to put him down. Notwithstanding, he considered that Heke would be able to conquer the English, had they no Native assistance. Having explained to him the strength of the English, without depreciating Heke, I told him how well disposed the majority of the tribes in the interior were. There is a European living at this place who is married to the chief's daughter, and has a fine family of children by her. He cultivates some land there, and is establishing himself comfortably.

On the 5th we came to Whakatumutumu, a Wesleyan catechist's station, where we stopped and saw all the Natives, who I was glad to learn had made considerable improvement since my last visit. The following day we passed along the banks of the Mokau, a rich, fertile country, with few Natives. After a fatiguing walk of thirty-two miles across limestone ridges, we arrived at Motu Karamu, a German Mission-station. The chief Te Kuri, son of Taonui, came there to see us, and told us that the Natives of Waitara had cursed his father in a quarrel about some land. His father had not yet heard of it, but he expected be would be very indignant, as the Native who cursed him had been a prisoner of his; he would, however, advise his taking payment in satisfaction. The German establishment here consists of one clergyman and a practical farmer, sent out by their society to superintend a farming establishment connected with the Mission. Te Kuri has given them ten acres of land to commence with, in a good situation, with the River Mokau between them and the Native village, at which there are about eighty or a hundred inhabitants. There is a European emigrant living near, who found his way there with some traders from New Plymouth. He has a neat garden, with wheat and vegetables in abundance. The Natives are quickly imitating his mode of agriculture, and benefiting by the various kinds of seeds he introduces, as well as by his industrious habits. This part of the country is productive, and seldom visited by Europeans.

On the 8th we descended the Mokau River, accompanied by the chief's wife and a guide to see us safe over the rapids, the last of which is half-way down, near a vein of coal, which, in all probability, may ultimately become valuable, there being deep water for small coasters to get alongside of it to take in cargo. The land on the banks of the river is principally composed of a rich mould, with a considerable extent available for agriculture, and some portions wooded with a variety of useful timber. It is uninhabited, but there are indications of its having been at one period cultivated and settled, from remains of old tribes, and quantities of heavy timber fallen and now decayed, replaced by a shrubbery of koromiko and ngaio. The enclosed sketch will convey a more accurate idea of the extent and capabilities of this river, flowing through a country hitherto unexplored, or at least unnoticed, though not inferior to any other parts of the western district of this Island.

9th December.—Before leaving the Wesleyan Mission-station (Manutahi), near the entrance of the river, Waitara (one of the Mokau chiefs) came to make inquiries of me respecting his vessel, the "Hydra," lugger, for which he stated he had paid 120 pigs: understanding the Government had seized her for him, he was getting the pigs that were still due, ready to deliver, in hopes that she would soon be given up to him. I informed him that no time would be lost in representing his wishes to the Government.

We then left for Pukearuhi, and took advantage of the night tide, arriving there next morning. This station has been lately occupied by a Waikato chief, who claims it in right of his wife of the Ngatitama Tribe, who formerly inhabited that deserted tract of country, now residing at the Chatham Islands. The chief reminded me of having arranged a payment due to him by a European at New Plymouth, which caused his showing us a good deal of attention. He gave me considerable information respecting the Waikatos, some of whom he said were coming on a visit to Taranaki to see their relatives intermarried amongst that tribe. This place is agreeably situated about half-way from Mokau to New Plymouth, most convenient as a place of call for travellers, which I observed to the chief, who agreed to erect a house for that purpose. As an inducement, I promised him some tables and stools, with plants and seeds for a garden.

From thence we came to Waitara, arriving at New Plymouth late in the evening, and thus concluding a long journey of upwards of seven hundred miles, visiting and conversing with all the influential chiefs in our way, and, I trust, attaining the object for which it was undertaken.