I have now the honour, agreeably to the intimation expressed in my letter of the 2nd instant, to furnish you with a more detailed account of my journey to Taupo and Rotorua, as well as amongst the tribes of my district.

I commenced my journey on the 20th of October last, in consequence of the application from the Rev. R. Taylor and the chiefs of Whanganui, who were desirous that I should accompany that gentleman to the inland tribes, as mediators on their behalf, and endeavour to allay the excitement they were said to be under, which gave considerable alarm to the inhabitants of the West Coast, who feared another hostile incursion. In passing along the coast the Natives flocked towards me, making inquiries respecting a religious belief that had arisen amongst the Ngatiruanui Tribe, and extended towards those of Taranaki; some of whom asserted that they had seen the Almighty and His angels; one of them stating himself to be Jesus Christ; others, his disciples, were inviting their friends and acquaintances to come and worship the true God at their places. The further I proceeded the more I found of this fanatic delusion, but was glad to observe a majority opposed it, and were industriously pursuing their usual occupations.

Taranaki Coast and Whanganui, Upper Whanganui, and Taupo.

The country occupied by these tribes towards Whanganui is rich and fertile, producing most luxuriant grasses, intersected with rivers and beautiful lagoons, well suited for agriculture; or, if occupied by stock proprietors, would prove beneficial to them as well as to the Natives, by creating a desire amongst the latter to become owners of sheep and cattle, which will be in all probability the first property to confer a real benefit upon them. Nothing further of particular importance presented itself on my journey until I arrived at Whanganui, where I could perceive a very great improvement in the Natives within the last year, which is shown in some of their dwellings being built in imitation of the European style, and in an anxiety to be possessors of sheep and cattle, as well as fruit trees and seeds, which latter they receive from the Mission gardens and the settlers, who are mostly a respectable class of people, and interest themselves in their behalf. To the exertions of the Rev. Richard Taylor I should principally attribute the progress they are making, and the influence he has over the tribes of his district proves of the greatest benefit to the settlement generally.

Having remained some days at the Mission-station, and visited the Native villages in the vicinity, Mr. Taylor and I pursued our inland journey on the 5th of November by the Whanganui River, a distance of forty miles, on leaving which we travelled for three days across a forest country, with patches of available land, and occasionally some fine timber of the rimu and tawai. We next entered an open country, resembling much the plains of Bathurst, New South Wales. The soil is of a dark, sandy loam, covered with coarse grass (termed by the Natives poaka), which improves, towards Tongariro. We encamped at night on the banks of the Waitakaruru River, which flows through this extensive plain. In ascending towards the Taupo mountains, which were partially covered with snow we experienced a sudden change of climate and aspect, our path leading over volcanic ashes and lava, until our approach to Rotoaire, the first of the Taupo lakes, being the only settlement since we left the Whanganui River. Here the country again assumes a fertile appearance. The settlement is situated at the southern extremity of the lake from whence the Waikato River takes its source. We were much pleased with the chief personage of this place (mother-in-law to Heuheu), who had a dignified and graceful appearance. She received us kindly, and pressed our staying the night, not to pass without receiving some marks of her hospitality, which we gladly accepted, remaining there till the following day, and at night reached the settlement of Herekiekie, a young chief of Taupo, who has been long meditating an attack upon Waitotara, to revenge the death of his father Tauteka, who was killed there. We had reason to suspect he still intended carrying his design into execution whenever an opportunity offered, though professing friendship, and diverting our attention to the various objects worthy of notice in his neighbourhood, one of which in particular, a spring of boiling water, excited our curiosity, which, at intervals of one or two minutes, gushed upwards with a foaming rage similar to the bursting of a whirlpool, accompanied by a simultaneous rumbling, as if the earth was about to open and swallow up the unwary spectator.

Native Excitement concerning the War at the North.

The following day we arrived at Te Rapa, and met with a friendly reception from the old chief Heuheu, who had guns fired on our approaching his place, and whom, on our arrival, we founds seated on a large stone in front of his residence, surrounded by his tribe, who all bade us welcome, after which he led us to his house; and, on inquiring for some of his friends with whom we were acquainted, he entered into a long conversation respecting the war at the North, saying he considered Hone Heke (one of the least of the New Zealand chiefs in prowess) was more than a match for us; that Hongi, his relative, who went to see King George, advised Heke (when he was a little boy, attending on him page 128during his last illness) to be friendly to Europeans, but should it happen that, after his death, a flagstaff were erected in New Zealand, he should be careful to prevent such erection on his own territories, as that would show a desire on the part of the Europeans to posses his lands and deprive the New Zealanders of their country. He said Taraia was a restless chief, and not unlikely to take part with Heke; that he was himself looking quietly on, but could not help having a friendly feeling towards him, as a man of the same colour and country as himself; that, indeed, all New Zealanders were of the same colour, a continuous race of chieftains, possessing spirited but yet obstinate minds that no fair means could subdue; that there was a strong inclination on the part of the tribes of Taupo and Rotorua for more fighting; that the Ngatipikiao, of the latter place, headed by their chiefs Rupe and Matangi, sent him a basket of cartridges as a token that they were disposed to attack the Ihupuku Pa and try the strength of the large number who collected there last year, as well as to be revenged for the death of some of their relatives killed at Patoka. These cartridges Heuheu fired off, to show that he was not disposed to use them for that purpose, his desire being for peace, and through him it had been preserved up to the present time. Still he could not suppress the warlike propensities of other tribes, who were only waiting the result of the procrastinated war at the North, which kept them all in commotion, and made it difficult to keep them in proper subjection. He had himself declined assistance against his former enemies along the West Coast, and was even sending his women amongst them unprotected (carrying presents to Te Rauparaha and the Ngatitoa) as an earnest of his forgiving disposition. The conduct of the Mission Natives had given him dissatisfaction, but he highly respected the European Missionaries, who were all very kind to him, and regretted the Bishop had not placed one at his settlement, not wishing that a preference should be given to inferior chiefs whilst he was neglected.

Assumption of Christian Natives.

Iwikau, his brother, who is generally averse to Europeans, and much feared, by Natives from his bold, determined character, was exceedingly friendly to both Mr. Taylor and myself; to the former gentleman he felt indebted for kindness shown him when at Whanganui, and said he would be glad to see him oftener at Taupo, when he would think of becoming a "Missionary" if it were not for the haughty bearing of some of the Mission Natives, who considered their religion placed them higher in rank than himself, which was a feeling he could not endure. Mr. Taylor told him that it was expected from all Christian Natives to behave with respect to their chiefs, and that he would lose nothing of his rank by becoming one. Iwikau seemed pleased at this, and here I could perceive the benefits that would result from the more frequent visits of such persons as Mr. Taylor. He also expressed himself grateful for my interference in the affair between him and the trader mentioned in my report of the 11th July, 1845, and said, had it not been settled, he was determined to have taken payment from some other white man, or have tried the strength of the English, as Heke was doing; but its being arranged satisfactorily, and his own life probably saved by my advising the opposite party to lay aside their, firearms before he arrived at their place, led him to be more friendly to all Europeans.

On the 17th Mr. Taylor performed the marriage service between a European and a Native woman, after which we took our departure from Te Rapa, Heuheu accompanying us across the Lake in his canoe, which afforded me an opportunity of a conversation, when I pointed out to him the benefits likely to be conferred on the Natives of Taupo by having a European settlement at Whanganui, and how much it would be to his interest to urge the tribes over whom he had influence to behave well to them (the settlers), mentioning that Turoa, a chief of Whanganui, before his death strongly recommended peace to all his relatives, reminding them that they all originally came in the same canoe; that he had been a man for war, but he wished that now to die with him. I then explained to him the advantages of peace, and Mr. Taylor pointed out the evil consequences of war. Heuheu replied that a grandson of Turoa had been to see him, but had not said a word about peaceable intentions, and if Turoa had expressed himself to him in the same terms when he had put the question to him twice at Whanganui, peace would long since have been restored as far as he was concerned; but, as regarded the settlers there, whatever might happen in other parts of the Island, he would defend them. He apparently apprehended, a rising against the Natives of the West Coast, and strongly recommended my visiting the chiefs of Rotorua, mentioning their names, and to advise Hikairo, the leading chief of that place, against doing so.

We landed at a large pa to the north of the Rapa, to which Heuheu and his tribe resorted in time of war. He showed us some of his houses, handsomely finished in the Native style, and neatly carved. Here we took our leave of the kind old chief, who urged us to visit him frequently, and appeared to regret our departure, Heuheu having given me the names of the several chiefs, of Rotorua that were disposed to attack Ihupuku, and informed me that the feeling was not confined to them alone, as Taraia and Te Horeta evinced a similar disposition.

Here would take the liberty of observing that there are appearances of excitement amongst the tribes around here, and a desire to return in a great measure to their old habits, when those innumerable feuds and grievances that have lain dormant for years will be revived, the consequences of which might seriously affect our English settlements, and which demand every exertion on the part of those interested in the peace and tranquillity of the Island being used. I therefore determined on seeing as many of the chiefs as I could, and accordingly visited Rotorua with Mr. Taylor. After leaving Heuheu the first place we came to was Waimarino, where we found a body of Church Natives more advanced in religious information than any we had met at Taupo, which arose, no doubt, from their chief being the teacher and zealous in performing his duties. The next pa, Motutere, presented quite a different appearance, the inhabitants being in a perfect state of heathenism, continually begging from ourselves or Natives; but during our short stay we succeeded in shaming them out of such conduct.

On the 18th we came to Orona, a small settlement, where we found some Natives who had separated from those of Motutere, and had built, with the assistance of Mr. Taylor's teacher, a large chapel for themselves. We found them friendly. From thence we continued our journey along the banks of the lake, some parts of which are very beautiful, especially a small village at its northern end, round which we observed several cultivations. In turning off on the road to Rotorua we came to page 129Rotokawa, a picturesque lake about a mile long, the water of which is unfit for use, being strongly impregnated with sulphur. The country after leaving here presented a barren and dreary appearance until we arrived at the Waikato River, where we found a small settlement with twelve Church of England Natives. Takiri, the chief, who terms himself a "Missionary," was more inclined to annoy us by begging than to behave in accordance with the character he had assumed.

A short distance beyond this place the country presented the same barren appearance, nor did we meet with any change until we arrived at Pukaraka, where there is a level road running through some cultivations, and a fine clump of timber. From thence we got to a lake of Rotorua named Motutawa, with a small island in the centre, where a portion of the Ngatipikiao Tribe live. In the evening we arrived at the Rev. T. Chapman's, having visited Tarawera and all the pas that lay on our way to that place. Here we heard of the arrival of His Excellency Captain Grey as Governor of New Zealand. The scenery here is interesting and romantic, but the soil is poor and unproductive. Many vegetables which grow abundantly on a small island in the lake do not here come to perfection. In my interviews with the Natives around here I observed that the majority of them were desirous of relinquishing their warlike habits, and frequently mentioned the chief of Taupo as the grand mover of their actions. They said that some of their people were still restless, and only looking to the result of the northern war to see how far the Europeans could conquer their countrymen.

Accompanied by Mr. Chapman we visited Hikairo, that gentleman having to settle a difference respecting some goods stolen from Kororareka, in the possession of his Native teacher, for which he was suspended from his office for one month. In conversing with Hikairo, I informed him of Heuheu's friendly disposition, at which he seemed much pleased and gratified at his considering him the leading chief of Rotorua. He hoped that old grievances would be forgotten, and their newly-acquired religion only attended to. There were a few in his neighbourhood who, he said, wished for war, and he requested me to see them before we left that part of the country.

25th November.—The severity of the weather induced me to remain at Mr. Chapman's, and I was afforded an opportunity of seeing his Native infant school, with which and the progress the children attending it were making in learning English I was much pleased. There are frequently thirty scholars from four to eight years of age; many of the girls are kept at the Mission-house, where they are taught sewing and other useful employments.

As to Policy of Governor Grey.

On the 26th visited all the pas round Mr. Chapman's station, and had conversations with the Natives, who were under an impression that the new Governor was inclined for war, which, they said, would arouse the jealousy of every tribe in the country, who remained neutral until they saw the result of Heke's proceedings. I found among them some Natives who joined that chief in the Bay of Islands, and who were industriously circulating incorrect versions of the several engagements, and striving to excite the better-inclined against our cause. Having removed the impressions formed against His Excellency, and answered the arguments urged against the Europeans by the disaffected, I was returning to Mr. Chapman's when I fortunately met the chief of Maketu, Pukuatua, whom I found a sensible, well-disposed man. He told me he was instrumental in causing peace with the Tauranga Natives respecting Motuiti, an island on the East Coast that had been in dispute for years; that he wished to see the people of Taupo and the West Coast coming to the same terms, and all the tribes unanimous in keeping peace throughout the whole length and breadth of the land. The sentiments of this chief being so favourable, I wished him to convey them through me, by letter, to the Natives of my district, which he agreed to, a copy of which I enclose.

The next place we came to after leaving Mr. Chapman's was Ohinemutu Pa, the largest at Rotorua, where we stayed the night, and had a conversation with the chiefs there, who expressed themselves similarly to Hikairo and Pukuatua, stating they expected most of the Rotorua Natives would come on a friendly visit to the West Coast during the ensuing harvest. We were very much pleased with the young children we met at this place; most of them could repeat the English alphabet, several English words, and count from one to one hundred with ease. The delight they take in bathing in the warm springs, that are so numerous there, gives them a more cleanly and healthy appearance than at any other place we had visited.

On the 27th we commenced our journey homeward, passing, by several hot springs, and valleys of rich alluvial soil. About 1 o'clock we ascended the Arakari Pa, on the summit of a steep but pretty hill, that commanded an extensive view, giving a favourable impression of the whole district. At this place we met a few Natives of the Ngatituara Tribe. One of the old men there told me that there was a favourable feeling springing up amongst the Natives towards Heke, and a belief that in the next engagement he would be joined by all the Ngapuhi tribes. He had sent messages to all the tribes on the sea-coast to prevent the residing of Europeans amongst them, and that he hoped Rauparaha would declare war against the English.

From the Arakari we came along under the Horohoro range of mountains, which is high and in some parts heavily wooded. At the northern extremity, near our encampment, we ascended the top of the range, but as the sun was then setting we were disappointed in not having the extensive view we anticipated. Here we planted some seeds of the Russian cranberry and bilberry, and descended to our encampment, near a lonely grove, by a small river running through the plain.

Our journey on the 28th was through a plain level country that our guide told us had been seldom traversed by Europeans. In the evening we passed some large rocks that at the distance looked like the remains of a Druidical building. Here the road breaks off to Taupo, Waikato, and Matamata.

Saturday, the 29th, we got to Arohina Pa, where we found some Natives, and remained there during Sunday.

1st December.—Mr. Taylor went to visit Mr. Morgan's Mission-station at Otawhao, whilst I continued [gap — reason: damage] journey direct, which enabled me to spend a day with Ngawaka, the chief of Rangitoto. The road to his place lay through a poor hilly country, covered with low stunted fern, with a few patches of timber, near which there are a few most untidy villages and cultivations occupied by the page 130Ngatiraukawa Tribe, who do not appear to have any chief of consequence amongst them, and are considered less hospitable and friendly to travellers than any of the Waikato tribes that live in their vicinity. In the evening I got to Ngawaka's, a distance of thirty-five miles. This chief, who is very high in hereditary rank among the Waikatos, I found exceedingly kind and communicative, in his conversation evincing a general tone of friendship towards Europeans, and has frequently three or four living with him, supplying them with the best his place can afford without remuneration, and from the circumstances of the persons who thus partake of his hospitality it is not probable that he ever expected any. One of his sons, a fine young lad of thirteen years of age, he promises to send, along with Te Heuheu's son from Taupo, to live with me at Taranaki to learn English. The latter chief's son was on a visit to his place, and both of them came along with us a day's journey.

3rd December.—Mr. Taylor returned from Mr. Morgan's much pleased with his visit and the reception he received, the Natives showing him every mark of respect. I could perceive a great desire on the part of the Natives here to become owners of horses, and those who have already got them are, with Mr. Morgan's assistance, improving the roads through the interior very much by placing bridges across the deep creeks and streams, also cutting lines through the fern and bush.

On the 4th we came to Te Paripari (Taonui's place), where we pitched our tents and had a long conversation with that chief. He told us that a report had reached him that Taiaroa, the chief of the Southern Island, was desirous of becoming an imitator of Hone Heke; that Rauparaha had consented to join him, and intended making Wellington the first place of attack: but he assured us if this was true, which he himself doubted, that neither he nor Heuheu will join him in such attempt; that he would rather assist the Europeans, and, should Heke attempt to carry his threats into execution of cutting down the Auckland flagstaff, the Waikatos would turn out to put him down. Notwithstanding, he considered that Heke would be able to conquer the English, had they no Native assistance. Having explained to him the strength of the English, without depreciating Heke, I told him how well disposed the majority of the tribes in the interior were. There is a European living at this place who is married to the chief's daughter, and has a fine family of children by her. He cultivates some land there, and is establishing himself comfortably.

On the 5th we came to Whakatumutumu, a Wesleyan catechist's station, where we stopped and saw all the Natives, who I was glad to learn had made considerable improvement since my last visit. The following day we passed along the banks of the Mokau, a rich, fertile country, with few Natives. After a fatiguing walk of thirty-two miles across limestone ridges, we arrived at Motu Karamu, a German Mission-station. The chief Te Kuri, son of Taonui, came there to see us, and told us that the Natives of Waitara had cursed his father in a quarrel about some land. His father had not yet heard of it, but he expected be would be very indignant, as the Native who cursed him had been a prisoner of his; he would, however, advise his taking payment in satisfaction. The German establishment here consists of one clergyman and a practical farmer, sent out by their society to superintend a farming establishment connected with the Mission. Te Kuri has given them ten acres of land to commence with, in a good situation, with the River Mokau between them and the Native village, at which there are about eighty or a hundred inhabitants. There is a European emigrant living near, who found his way there with some traders from New Plymouth. He has a neat garden, with wheat and vegetables in abundance. The Natives are quickly imitating his mode of agriculture, and benefiting by the various kinds of seeds he introduces, as well as by his industrious habits. This part of the country is productive, and seldom visited by Europeans.

On the 8th we descended the Mokau River, accompanied by the chief's wife and a guide to see us safe over the rapids, the last of which is half-way down, near a vein of coal, which, in all probability, may ultimately become valuable, there being deep water for small coasters to get alongside of it to take in cargo. The land on the banks of the river is principally composed of a rich mould, with a considerable extent available for agriculture, and some portions wooded with a variety of useful timber. It is uninhabited, but there are indications of its having been at one period cultivated and settled, from remains of old tribes, and quantities of heavy timber fallen and now decayed, replaced by a shrubbery of koromiko and ngaio. The enclosed sketch will convey a more accurate idea of the extent and capabilities of this river, flowing through a country hitherto unexplored, or at least unnoticed, though not inferior to any other parts of the western district of this Island.

9th December.—Before leaving the Wesleyan Mission-station (Manutahi), near the entrance of the river, Waitara (one of the Mokau chiefs) came to make inquiries of me respecting his vessel, the "Hydra," lugger, for which he stated he had paid 120 pigs: understanding the Government had seized her for him, he was getting the pigs that were still due, ready to deliver, in hopes that she would soon be given up to him. I informed him that no time would be lost in representing his wishes to the Government.

We then left for Pukearuhi, and took advantage of the night tide, arriving there next morning. This station has been lately occupied by a Waikato chief, who claims it in right of his wife of the Ngatitama Tribe, who formerly inhabited that deserted tract of country, now residing at the Chatham Islands. The chief reminded me of having arranged a payment due to him by a European at New Plymouth, which caused his showing us a good deal of attention. He gave me considerable information respecting the Waikatos, some of whom he said were coming on a visit to Taranaki to see their relatives intermarried amongst that tribe. This place is agreeably situated about half-way from Mokau to New Plymouth, most convenient as a place of call for travellers, which I observed to the chief, who agreed to erect a house for that purpose. As an inducement, I promised him some tables and stools, with plants and seeds for a garden.

From thence we came to Waitara, arriving at New Plymouth late in the evening, and thus concluding a long journey of upwards of seven hundred miles, visiting and conversing with all the influential chiefs in our way, and, I trust, attaining the object for which it was undertaken.