Figure 94.—Food platter (laulau) twill commencement technique:

a, The first dextral (1) is raised and two sinistrals (1' and 2') passed under it. The second dextral (2) is raised, the third sinistral (3') is passed under it, and the first dextral, which is still kept raised. The first dextral (1) is dropped, the second (2) is kept raised, and the next dextral (3) is picked up. Holding the dextrals (2 and 3) up, the next sinistral (4') is passed under them and over the first dextral, which has been dropped. From here on the usual technique is carried on. The upper dextral of the pair is dropped, another dextral picked up from below and the next sinistral passed under them. The first projecting sinistral (1') is turned in under the sinistral (2') raised over (3') and dropped. Working upwards, the next sinistral (2') is turned in under the sinistral (3') and raised while the sinistral (4') is placed in position above the intervening dextral wefts (1 and 1'). The acting dextral (2') is then dropped over (4'). The next projecting sinistral (3') is passed under (4'), raised while the sinistral (5') is placed above the intervening dextrals and then dropped over it. The next projecting sinistral (4') is turned in under (5'), raised while the sinistral (6') is placed in position and then dropped over it. Between the crosing dextral twill (4) of the commencement and the crossing dextral (4'), the sinistral (6'), forming the base of the plaited triangle, has crossed over six dextrals. The craftswoman here decides that sinistral twilled sixes are as far as she will go. Before, therefore, the edge technique she has been following can be applied to the next sinistral (7') she must do something or it will result in a twilled seven. This is obviated by raising the dextral (3) over it and then turning the projecting sinistral (5') in from the left edge under the sinistral (6') and over (7'). The pattern, which consists at this stage of a vertical line of dextral checks and a developing vertical line of sinistral sixes, is thus maintained. In the next movement dealing with the sinistral (8'), the lower part of its course is attended to by keeping the dextral (3) raised and raising also the dextral above it (2) and dropping them over (8'). The projecting sinistral (6') is then turned in from the edge, passed under (7') and raised over (8'), again maintaining the vertical ones and sixes. The vertical dextral checks and sinistral sixes are under control, but before building up further, the pattern to the right of the vertical sixes must be decided. The next two vertical panels are to be dextral twos and sinistral fours. b, Glancing at (a), the dextral (3) has already formed a twilled two. Before the next sinistral (9') is moved, the dextral (3) must be dropped, (2) kept up and the one page 187above it (1) picked up. The sinistral (9') is passed under (2 and 1) and at the upper end of its course, the dextral (6') is dropped and the projecting sinistral (7') turned in under (8') and kept raised for (9') to pass under it. The vertical line of dextral twilled twos can now be controlled and directed by dropping the lower one and picking another up above that retained in each movement. The next element in the pattern, the sinistral fours, demands attention. To the right of the twilled twos, the sinistrals (7,' 8,' and 9') have passed over one, two, and four dextrals respectively. The weft (9') has established the beginning of the fours. Before the next sinistral (10') can be placed in position, the lowest dextral of the four crossed (6) must be raised or else the sinistral (10) will form a twilled five. The dextral (6) is accordingly raised, (2) dropped, (1) kept up and the dextral above it (1') raised, and the sinistral (10) placed in position. The upper ends are left for later treatment. The raising of the dextral (6) commences another vertical row of twilled dextral twos. For the sinistral (11'), the dextral (6) is kept up, the one above it (5) raised, the dextral (1) is dropped, (1') kept up and (2') picked up. For the next sinistral'(12') the dextral (6) is dropped, (5) kept up, the weft above it (4) picked up, (1') dropped, (2') kept up and (3') picked up. The sinistral has now commenced another vertical set of twilled sinistral fours. The technique already described is repeated and continued across the width of the plaiting. The left edge is formed by bending in the projecting sinistrals successively under the sinistral above. Then as they function as dextrals they are raised for one stroke to let the next sinistral pass beneath. As we have seen, the left edge is built up with turned in sinistrals that have run their course between the horizontal line of dextral twos that formed the commencement twilled row and the left edge. Hence, each sinistral must be correctly worked into the pattern throughout its course before it can be turned at the left edge.