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Samoan Material Culture

Figure 161.—Fine mat; alternative left corner technique, lower edge, and three-weft braid:

Figure 161.—Fine mat; alternative left corner technique, lower edge, and three-weft braid:

Figure 161.—Fine mat; alternative left corner technique, lower edge, and three-weft braid:

a, the lower edge is formed as far as the turn of the weft (5) by turning up both elements of the double sinistral wefts to function as dextrals. To form the left corner, the first dextral laid down (1) is doubled around the sinistral (2') to run parallel with, and immediately above, the first part of its own course to act as the dextral (1'). The corner has thus been formed by the turn of one weft instead of by two wefts as in the usual method. (See fig. 152.) The left edge is continued upwards by turning the next sinistral (2') in under the sinistral above (3') to act as a dextral. The succeeding sinistrals (3' to 5') are treated similarly in turn and the technique carried upwards to reach the depth of a working section. Throughout the left edge both elements of the sinistral wefts are turned in as there are no fringe elements to provide for. The lower edge is without fringe as far as the turn of the weft (5). From now on provision is made for adding both dextral and sinistral fringe elements. The sinistral fringe element is provided as in the 'ie fau garment by turning up one element of the added double sinistral weft to function as a dextral and leaving the other down as a fringe element. Fresh dextral fringe elements are added to the turned up dextrals and in order to form a three-ply braid plait along the lower edge, each dextral weft must contain three elements. Both elements of the weft (6) like those which preceded it, have been turned up so a single fringe element (6') is added to make three elements in the weft as required. This first three-element dextral weft passes over the double sinistral (7), under the next sinistral (8), and is turned back to assist in forming the next shed. The upper element (7) of the next sinistral is turned up to act as a dextral while its lower element (7") is left down to form the sinistral fringe. The newly-added dextral fringe element (7') must therefore contain two strips to bring the dextral weft up to the required quota of three elements. The double dextral (7') is placed in position, the element (7) turned up on it and, the wefts of the working edge having been arranged, the next sinistral (9) is placed in the shed formed. b, The next plaiting movement brings the three-element dextral (6) down over the sinistral (9) when the two lower elements go on as a normal double dextral (6) but the third uppermost element (6") is turned down on the working sinistral (9) as it lies in the working shed. In the next movement, a fresh double dextral will be placed in position between the elements of (8) and over the sinistral (9) with the turned element (6"). The upper element of (8) will be turned up as a dextral to lie on the added dextral fringe elements and a new sinistral will cross above them when placed in the next working shed. c, By following the technique inaugurated by the third dextral element (6"), each successive third element when it reaches a working sinistral is turned downwards. When it reaches the lower edge, it may be turned up again to continue in the braid which is formed. Thus the double dextral (12") joined the turned up dextral (12) and after passing over and under the two crossing sinistrals was turned down on the sinistral (15) when it passed over and under the two crossing dextrals (13 and 14) to reach the edge. There it may be turned up again or left out in the fringe. The third elements of the dextrals by their downward turn define the upper edge of the fixation braid as shown in figure. The technique is continued throughout the plaiting of the lower edge.